Trail and Errors

One day from Snoqualmie, so you not what to expect - lots of talk about food. It is however, an unusual pre town day as Snoqualmie is set to be the last town stop before the end of the trail. Naturally there are mixed feelings about this. The journey is coming to a close and with it are the excitements of home and rest, but this has been their lives for the last 6 months, a unique and extraordinary life, one not so easily put to one side. These emotions are heard throughout the episode as Ethan, Molly and the gang face this reality for the first time, being now 2 weeks from Canada.  

Leaving Mt Rainier behind, Molly and Ethan plod their way through yet another burnt woodland but this time, from the fertile soils sprout small clusters of strawberries - not quite the selection at Sainsbury's but a delightful treat for the eyes if anything. This landscape of recovering shrub dominates the day which remains hot despite the grey cloud cover looming overhead. There is a random encounter involving a minor "PCT celebrity" - OTC - and a gamble between a spring water supply and rumoured trail magic. 

The team pass through a tourist hotspot as it draws close to the Labor Day national holiday. The usually quiet and thru-hiker occupied territory of the PCT is shared with countless national and international day hikers enjoying the trails around Mt Rainier. That said, much of the day is spent in mists, including yet another delightful pause for trail magic but, shortly after, the sun breaks through with a vengeance turning the previously damp day into a scorcher. The group swim in lakes, converse with passers by and share PCT anthems, written along the journey.  

One of those days; not a bad day but, just one of those ya know?  Following the explosion of beauty the day before at Knifes Edge, we dive into forests on a day of drizzle. It is beautiful and wild, but quiet. Lethargy sinks it's claws in. The day was taken easy, with lunch beside alpine lakes, talks of possible wolf sightings, crashing at the end with a very exciting food review.

In the Goat Rocks Wilderness, the PCT splits. You can take the original route or an alternative. Frankly, you'd be a fool not to take the alternative. Knife's Edge remains the most beautiful section of all 2,650 miles of the trail for us. This episode hopefully showcases that with a lot of ambient audio, "Wow"s and the occasional f-bomb of delight. There isn't much else to say really. Listen and enjoy. 

Having skirted around Mt Adams, the dynamic duo press on with their eyes set firmly on the Goat Rocks Wilderness - said to be one of the most beautiful stretches of the entire trail. The team discuss their favourite town stops so far, find themselves in awe by the beauty of Cispus pass, attempt once again to communicate with Pikas and generally enjoys the days hike in gorgeous weather and surroundings. They finish the day camping in what is possibly the most amazing camp spot thus far with near 360 views of Washingtons most iconic mountains on a clear evening. They are a stones through from Knives Edge - the main piece for the day to come. 

As they leave the area of Trout Lake, saying goodbye once more to old friends, Molly and Ethan begin to skirt the more recognisable mountains of the Washington Cascades. Mt Adams and the rest lie in wait.

A promise of a little trail magic turns into an overdose. On a day already fitted with a scheduled town stop, the team are spoilt as they come across 3 stations of trail magic along the way. French toast, pork chops, chocolates and mimosas fuel the march to Trout Lake which itself delivers blueberry pies, burgers and long lost trail families. A long conversation is shared with Prometheus and Not A Minor by campfire outside of town, featuring discussions about managing a relationship on trail, bear encounters, devil deer and more.  A disjointed sound fest of us eating, mumbling and summarising. We hope you still enjoy. 

The gang continue their walk up the multi mile slope upon which they camped. Its a morning slog, but whilst resting on its peak a SOBO hiker delivers news of magic on the trail. This is where lunch and much of this episode is spent. Amongst casual conversation excitement and anticipation of Trout Lake, due the following day, continues to build but more news from SOBO hikers of even more magic makes the next day as exciting as Christmas. 

Ah, Washington; the forests, the ferns and of course the non-stop up hill struggle.  It's a sweaty welcome to the new state but the milestone of yesterday pushes Molly and Ethan up the hills and rolls them down the other side. Ethan is attacked by a wasp, the team reflect on hitch hikes of the past and the prospect of restaurant food at Trout lake lingers on the tip of our tongues.

Another milestone crossed in this episode as Molly and Ethan cross the final US state border into Washington via the Bridge of the Gods, but first they must tick off the last few miles of Oregon in variable weather, and complete the U of the Columbia River valley. Oregon sends them packing with one last night of rain, but the promise of town and food in the form of Cascade Locks keeps their spirits from being dampened and spurs them on across the famed bridge into the state that marks the beginning of the end. 

A long and emotional episode.  Molly and Ethan, eager to meet his parents at Timberline lodge, press on through the humid forests of north Oregon, along the edges of Timothy Lake, to the slopes of Mt Hood. Along the way, Ethan goes through waves of anticipation as the day he's been longing for comes to reality but, when it finally arrives, nothing could be sweeter.  The end is near, but a taste of home is needed to push them through. 

Spanning days 141 and 142, this episode sees Molly and Ethan hike from Big Lake Youth Camp to beyond Ollalie Lake. Along the way, they surpass the 2000 mile mark and reflect on the miles as well as the pride they feel for having come so far. Having skirted around Mt Jefferson, they finally get views of Mt Hood in the distance; their future destination and the spot of a well needed two days zero. Along the lakeside of Ollalie they are treated to magic in the form of homemade Mexican food delivered by some of the most kind and generous trail angels yet but have to peel themselves away from the treat to find a little spot for camp to one side of the trail. Only one more whole day of hiking before Ethan's parents meet them at Timberline Lodge. Excitement is in the air.

A day of obsidian, waterfalls, lava fields and mountains awaits your ears in this episode. The team leave behind the Three Sisters and their volcanic wake on their way to Big Lake Youth Camp where a thrifty resupply proves useful for the coming days ahead.

An early and cold morning kept the mosquitoes at bay as our duo left the shores of Stormy Lake. After a day of monotonous woodland, Ethan was hoping for open views and possibly glimpses of the Three Sisters as they etched their way through the wilderness dedicated to those volcanic mountains. Great progress was made by lunch and, come evening, Molly and Ethan found themselves staring up at the red volcanic slopes of what was surely one of the great Sisters. As the evening light cast itself upon the meadows and forest around them, they settled for camp at the base of the Sister (possibly Middle, though equally possibly Southern) surrounded by south-bound and day hikers attracted to the spot for the exact same reasons. 

Ethan and Molly wake up to the tail end of the storm that thundered down on them the previous evening. Trudging through the mud and wet bush, they head towards Shelter Cove - a small lakeside campsite with a shop, restaurant and possible accommodation in the face of worsening conditions. Indeed the weather did not let up and Shelter Cove proved to be an ideal stop. The next morning brought clearer skies and dried kit. Our dynamic duo monopolised on these favourable conditions achieving a 29-mile day through the relatively flat green tunnel to yet another lake called Stormy. Though both days didn't bring much in the way of wild beauty, having entered the Three Sisters Wilderness the days to come were aligned to make up for it. 

The day before wasn't the most entertaining day for the guys. To entertain themselves they played a little game known as "Snog, Marry or Kill". The subject of said game? Just three of histories well-known Gods. Well, they learnt their lesson on route towards Shelter Cove when the God left for dead took his vengeance. Join the gang as they find themselves in the grip of a storm which culminates in thunderous claps of lightning and "hailstones the size of walnuts" as they traverse a high ridgeline. 

Despite warning signs, Molly and Ethan survive a night without disturbance from Mountain Lions. Legs and limbs still intact, they start the days hike around the rim of Crater Lake, admiring its beauty in the morning light. The day ahead is full of long dry stretches so the dynamic duo make the most of water caches left by trail angels along the way. The trail meanders back to the green tunnel, though large stretches pass through diseased and dying woodlands, providing little distraction from the stifling heat. Eventually, they reach the base of Mt Theilsen - a jagged peak of red and yellow banned rock - where they come across their friend Cheese Grater whose suffering from multiple stress fractures, and may need to come off-trail as a consequence. After a brief stop at a river passing down from the mountain, Molly and Ethan find a good camping spot among the forest just a few miles from Oregons highest point on the PCT.

Molly and Ethan wake to a mosquito soup in the air and, as a consequence, charge through the morning miles on their way to Crater Lake. Crater Lake has been high on their "sights to see" list and they are buzzing to have finally reached it. The trail cuts through burn areas whose skeletal trees are populated by woodpeckers and the air is alive with the hum of crickets. They reconvene with several friends at Mazama Village; Will, Audrey, Mike, Miles, Matt, Trouble and Cheeks, and enjoy a well-deserved lunch/dinner at a campsite resturant after achieving 20+ miles by early afternoon. Following a side trail, they proceed up to the Crater Lake Rim Walk through more clouds of mosquitos and are absolutely dazzled by the beauty of the lake. After a good rest admiring the view, our duo finds camp off-trail along the rim. Before heading to sleep they discuss recent warnings of Mountain Lion activity around their campsite. 

A cheerful Ethan greets us this morning, but Molly is struggling with a blister on her foot that has required some intervention. Feeling better after 'leeching' it they head out into the green tunnel of the forest, plagued by swarms of mosquitos in the still, humid air. Water is a bit of an issue today, with 11 miles between each of the sources they plan to stop at. The day is overcast, so heat is less of a problem but the air is heavy. Eventually they emerge from the tunnel out onto a ridge where they have views across the wooded valleys and the breeze keeps the mozzies at bay. A final push up and over a hill gets them thinking about reaching the famous Crater Lake tomorrow with the opportunity of a restaurant stop in Mazama Village. Episode 115 of Trail & Errors :)