Eric Hörst's Training For Climbing Podcast

Modern athletes know that strength and endurance alone aren't enough. The ability to generate power efficiently, resist injury, and recover quickly depends just as much on the health of connective tissues—tendons, ligaments, and the extracellular matrix (ECM)—as on muscle strength itself. Yet, these vital tissues have long been misunderstood as relatively static and untrainable. The latest research proves otherwise: tendons and ligaments are remarkably adaptive, capable of remodeling and strengthening in response to targeted loading and proper nutrition. The white paper presented in this podcast distills more than a decade of cutting-edge research into a clear, evidence-based framework for improving connective tissue health and performance. Drawing on the work of leading scientists and sports medicine experts, it explains how short bouts of specific mechanical loading—paired with precise nutritional strategies—stimulate collagen synthesis, enhance tendon stiffness, and accelerate recovery. The paper also details the biological mechanisms behind these adaptations, offering a practical roadmap for both elite and dedicated recreational climbers. Whether you're looking to climb harder, rehab a connective tissue injury, or simply increase your resilience so as to stay injury-free longer, this research-driven guide provides the tools to do it. Listeners (and readers) will learn how to structure brief daily tendon-training sessions, time nutrient intake to maximize collagen synthesis, and avoid common anti-adaptive mistakes that slow recovery. Backed by peer-reviewed science and real-world application, this paper redefines how athletes can train smarter—and perform stronger—through the science of connective tissue optimization. Podcast Rundown 0:15 – Eric's welcome statement 0:30 - Overview of this podcast and the research White Paper. Download a PDF with supporting diagrams and research references here >> 🎧 Podcast Sponsors: La Sportiva | DMM | Friction Labs | PhysiVantage -- Amplify your training and climb your best with PhysiVantage Nutrition for climbers. Save 15% off full-price nutrition at PhysiVantage.com with checkout code: PODCAST15 4:20 - White Paper Introduction 8:40 - Tendon and Extracellular Matrix (ECM) Structure 14:23 - Connective Tissue Adaptations to Training 22:54 - Tendinopathy and Its Progression 32:45 - Training Interventions to Rehab Tendons and Increase Performance 40:55 - Nutritional Support for Rehab and Strengthening Tendons 45:35 - Summary Points and Training Tips 51:45 - Concluding thoughts 54:00 - Eric's closing comments and contact information Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing Check out Eric's YouTube channel. Follow Eric on Facebook! And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing 🎧 Support Podcast Sponsor: PhysiVantage Nutrition's Premium Proteins Boost your strength gains, recovery, connective tissue health, and immune system with PhysiVantage proteins: Supercharged Collagen, Weapons-Grade Whey Complex, and plant-based Powerplex. Save 15% with checkout code: PODCAST15 at PhysiVantage.com PhysiVantage is available in Europe from the EPIC-TV Shop and in Mexico from PhysiVantage.mx SAVE on La Sportiva shoes >> Thank yous: La Sportiva, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs Music by Misty Murphy

If you're a connoisseur of steep routes, this episode is for you! We've assembled a "Red River Pump" roundtable that reveals the training methods, tactics, and insider strategies for climbing your best on the overhanging walls of the Red — or any steep sport crag you love. Kris Hampton, Ryan Devlin, and Eric Hörst dive into Red-specific pre-trip and offseason training, mental strategies for embracing the pump, steep redpoint tactics, on-route resting, fueling and recovery, and how to "protect the send." This is a power-packed, actionable conversation you can apply today to climb stronger, last longer, and send harder on any endurance-style route. Podcast Rundown 0:15 – Intro to T4C podcast 1:05 - Overview of the training and tactical topics covered in this episode. Listen to the full two-hour conversation of ALL things RRG at The Struggle Podcast >> 🎧 Podcast Sponsor: Amplify your training and climb your best with PhysiVantage Nutrition for climbers. Save 15% off full-price nutrition at PhysiVantage.com with checkout code: PODCAST15 4:20 - Introducing the Red River Pump Roundtable! 4:45 - [KH] General training prep in the weeks ahead of a trip to the RRG. 8:32 - [EH] The secret(s) to dominating on steep, pumpy routes. 10:30 - The importance of becoming a more aerobic-powered climber. 17:40 - [EH] Energy system training and the short- and long-term adaptations to climbing-specific aerobic training. And learn why doing a moderate amount of running can support your route-climbing performance. 21:30 - Learning to climb through the pump 25:10 - [KH] Tips for easing into an extended trip to the Red. 28:30 - [EH] Tactical tips for performing your best. 32:20 - [RD] Nutritional support of climbing performance and recovery between days of climbing. 34:00 - [EH] The benefits of SENDURE-X, a climber's pre-workout/performance drink that boosts circulation, endurance, and recovery ability. 36:08 - [RD] The value of the "low point" projecting tactic. 37:45 - [KH] "Protecting the send" 39:20 - [EH] Over-learning (practicing) the "anchor run" 41:00 - [RD] Low pointing defined. 42:10 - Final comments, and where to find more free training information. 43:00 - Wrap-Up and request  to PLEASE WRITE A REVIEW! Pease share this podcast on your socials and/or with your friends! 🎧 Support Podcast Sponsor: PhysiVantage Nutrition's Premium Proteins Boost your strength gains, recovery, connective tissue health, and immune system with PhysiVantage proteins: Supercharged Collagen, Weapons-Grade Whey Complex, and plant-based Powerplex. Save 15% with checkout code: PODCAST15 at PhysiVantage.com SAVE on La Sportiva shoes >> Thank yous: La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs, Organic Climbing. Music by Misty Murphy Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing Check out Eric's YouTube channel. Follow Eric on Facebook! And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing Visit PhysiVantage.com and get a 15% discount on full-price items with checkout code: PODCAST15

Learn five powerful lessons for achieving big, difficult goals that I took away from watching Girl Climber -- the new film that chronicles Emily Harrington's incredible, multi-year journey to free-climb El Capitan's Golden Gate route in under 24 hours. For me, this isn't just a film about climbing—it's about resilience, will power, and the triumph of human spirit, Furthermore, it serves as a bold reminder of what it takes to stay committed to a dream in the face of fear, doubt, setbacks, and even failure. As Emily's journey shows, greatness isn't built on talent alone. It comes from disciplined training, uncommon courage and toughness, and the willingness to keep showing up for a goal that feels just out of reach. I had the chance to see Girl Climber on its IMAX theatrical release date, August 24th, and I'll tell you—it was excellent! Truly a must-see for anyone passionate about climbing…or simply fascinated by what it takes to push the human mind and body to their limits in pursuit of a big goal. Podcast Rundown 0:15 – Intro to T4C podcast and my initial thoughts on the Girl Climber film 1:30 - If you missed it in IMAX theaters, don't worry. The film is now playing on the Indy Movie Theater network, with larger chain theaters scheduled to pick it up in the coming months. And starting this October, Girl Climber will be available online as a paid download from jolt.films.  Watch trailer >> 2:00 - Intro to the 5 powerful lessons on display in Girl Climber. 2:35 - Emily's backstory and diverse climbing accomplishments 4:35 - 5 powerful lessons for pursing audacious goals 7:00 - Definition of "BHAG" (big hairy audacious goals), as popularized by Jim Collins 9:00 - Lesson #1: Commit for the Long Haul 11:45 - Lesson #2: Embrace the Bruising Process 🎧 Podcast Sponsor Product: PhysiVantage Nutrition's Premium Proteins Boost your strength gains, recovery, connective tissue health, and immune system with PhysiVantage proteins: Supercharged Collagen, Weapons-Grade Whey Complex, and plant-based Powerplex. Save 15% with checkout code: PODCAST15 at PhysiVantage.com 17:20 - Lesson #3 - Persevere Through Adversity 19:15 - Lesson #4 - Build a Strong Support Team 22:07 - Lesson #5 - Believe in the Endgame 23:45 - Importance of surrounding yourself with "doers" (and avoiding critics and shit talkers) 25:40 - Final comments...PLEASE WRITE A REVIEW...and share this podcast with your friends! 27:24 - Hörst Out! SUPPORT THIS PODCAST! Visit PhysiVantage.com and get a 15% discount on full-price performance nutrition with checkout code: PODCAST15 SAVE on La Sportiva shoes >> Thank yous: La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs, Organic Climbing. Music by Misty Murphy Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing Check out Eric's YouTube channel. Follow Eric on Facebook! And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing Visit PhysiVantage.com and get a 15% discount on full-price items with checkout code: PODCAST15

After nine years as an NFL offensive lineman for the Falcons, Commanders, and Jets, Wes Schweitzer has traded 330-pound trench battles for crimps, slopers, and steep boulders! In this inspiring conversation, Wes shares how climbing started as elbow rehab modality, turned into a passion, and even improved his football performance. We dive into the parallels between elite football and high-level climbing, his challenges with a variety of football-related injuries, and his bold goal: to become the heaviest climber ever to send V10. Along the way, Wes reflects on career highlights—Super Bowl appearances, facing Aaron Donald, blocking for Matt Ryan and Aaron Rodgers—and his next chapter chasing higher Kilter Board grades and new outdoor climbing adventures. Podcast Rundown 2:28 – Welcome to Wes...the first American Football player to appear on the T4C podcast 3:45 - His first Autumn without football will be filled with climbing. 7:35 - How he discovered climbing...amidst a life filled with football 9:30 - Similarities between football and climbing 11:30 - Projecting "The Belly", a V5 at Catoctin Mountain Park 13:30 - What it's like (and what it takes) to play Offensive Line in the NFL 17:15 - How Wes dovetailed training for climbing while being starting Lineman in the NFL 20:40 - The physiological "balance" that climber offers a football player 21:30 - Insight into Wes' many football injuries 🎧 Podcast Sponsor Product: PhysiVantage Nutrition's Premium Proteins Boost your strength gains, recovery, connective tissue health, and immune system with PhysiVantage proteins: Supercharged Collagen, Weapons-Grade Whey Complex, and plant-based Powerplex. Save 15% with checkout code: PODCAST15 at PhysiVantage.com 24:50 - Looking ahead to Wes' next career as a pro climber! 25:50 - Wes' short-term climbing goals...and Kilter Board focus 28:30 - Discussion of body weight and climbing...and how much weight Wes has lost...and plans to lose in the coming years 33:18 - Wes' long-term climbing goals: Becoming the heaviest person to boulder V10...and climb a big wall 36:10 - Rapid fire Q & A about his experiences as a 9-year NFL player Favorite moment Endzone spiking Best QB he's played with Best athlete he's ever seen Who's the all-time GOAT in football Wes' insider pick for winning the Super Bowl in the 2025 season 42:15 - Wes' upcoming trip to the Red River Gorge 43:30 Wrap-up on Wes' inspiring journey from the football field to the climbing walls 44:00 - Final comments...and mention of Eric's book Maximum Climbing: Mental Training for Peak Performance and Optimal Experience. PLEASE WRITE A REVIEW...and share this podcast with your friends!  45:35 - Hörst Out! SUPPORT THIS PODCAST! Visit PhysiVantage.com and get a 15% discount on full-price performance nutrition with checkout code: PODCAST15 SAVE on La Sportiva shoes >> Thank yous: La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs, Organic Climbing. Music by Misty Murphy Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing Check out Eric's YouTube channel. Follow Eric on Facebook! And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing Visit PhysiVantage.com and get a 15% discount on full-price items with checkout code: PODCAST15

Nothing is more elemental to climbing than fear. The fear of falling, getting hurt, failing, looking foolish, or simply facing the unknown can feel torturous—and even paralyzing. To climb efficiently and confidently—and to pursue your peak performance—you must learn to assess and manage fear effectively. In this 90-minute episode, Coach Hörst delivers a tour de force of 18 fear management techniques designed to help you unlock a new level of mental mastery. These practical strategies will empower you to perform at your best on boulders, at the crag, and in everyday life. (Because effective fear management is just as vital for achieving great things off the rock as it is on it!) Podcast Rundown 0:25 – Introduction to the topic of fear management for climbers 3:25 – The 5 most common types of fear in climbing 4:10 – Reflection break: Pause the podcast and consider some of your recent climbing fears. Can you identify a few that were especially acute or held you back? Write them down, and take notes as you learn techniques for managing these fears. 5:50 – FEAR #1: Fear of Falling Learn 4 powerful techniques for handling falling-related fear 36:00 – FEAR #2: Fear of Dying or Getting Hurt Discover 6 essential methods for using this fear productively—and quashing it when it's unfounded 🎧 Podcast Sponsor Product: SENDURE-X: The Ultimate Pre-Workout and Performance drink mix for climbers! Boost your power-endurance, stamina, and recovery between hard boulders, redpoint goes, and hard training efforts. Add a scope to your water bottle...and feel the difference SENDURE-X makes! Save 15% with checkout code: PODCAST15 at PhysiVantage.com 1:03:40 – FEAR #3: Fear of Failure Ironically, fear of failure often results in failure itself. Learn 3 strategies to overcome it 1:11:28 – FEAR #4: Fear of Embarrassment and Criticism Explore 2 key strategies for dealing with these potentially debilitating fears 1:17:50 – FEAR #5: Fear of the Unknown Master 3 strategies for managing the intangible fear of uncertainty 1:27:37 – Recap of 11 powerful tips to assess and manage common climbing fears 1:33:07 - Critical take-home point: Love climbing unconditionally! 1:33:23 - Final comments...and mention of Eric's book Maximum Climbing: Mental Training for Peak Performance and Optimal Experience. 1:35:00 - PLEASE WRITE A REVIEW...and share this podcast with your friends! 1:36:18 - Hörst Out! SUPPORT THIS PODCAST! Visit PhysiVantage.com and get a 15% discount on full-price performance nutrition with checkout code: PODCAST15 SAVE on La Sportiva shoes >> Thank yous: La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs, Organic Climbing. Music by Misty Murphy Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing Check out Eric's YouTube channel. Follow Eric on Facebook! And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing Visit PhysiVantage.com and get a 15% discount on full-price items with checkout code: PODCAST15

Coach Hörst shares 15 game-changing tips to elevate your climbing this season. Performance gains aren't made solely in the gym. As Coach Hörst explains, there's a lot you can do in-season—technically, tactically, and nutritionally—to level up your outdoor climbing. Apply just a few of these strategies today, and you might send your project sooner than expected. Put most or all into practice over the coming weeks, and you could unlock a whole new level of performance this season! RUNDOWN 0:30 – Introduction: Why these 15 tips matter for your in-season performance. 2:20 – Tip #1: Know the context of your current training and climbing—and act accordingly. 5:08 – Tip #2: Dial in your warm-up to match the demands of your project. (Not all warm-ups are created equal!) 8:40 – Tip #3: Time your sends by planning around temperature trends and sun exposure. 10:35 – Tip #4: Build confidence by climbing routes that match your natural style. 12:35 – Tip #5: Occasionally work "anti-style" routes to promote long-term growth and mastery. 15:35 – Tip #6: Always bring two pairs of shoes: a comfortable pair for warming up and a performance pair for sending. 18:20 – Tip #7: Prioritize movement efficiency when projecting. Climb smart with the strength and skills you have today. 24:15 – Tip #8: Focus on making a few high-quality efforts per session—not just maxing out your goes. 27:55 – Tip #9: Recover faster between attempts with active recovery techniques. 31:28 – Tip #10: Don't climb to exhaustion. End your session before mental and physical fatigue sabotages your efforts—and recovery. 📢 Commercial Break: Why top doctors and PTs recommend daily collagen supplementation for athletes. Use code PODCAST15 to save 15% at PhysiVantage.com 41:50 – Tip #11: Fuel appropriately for the day's climbing. Stable blood glucose = steady performance. 47:20 – Tip #12: Refuel quickly post-session: 20g protein + some carbs within 30 minutes. Follow up with a healthy meal within 2–3 hours. 50:32 – Tip #13: One beer max (zero is ideal) to avoid impairing recovery. 52:32 – Tip #14: Do some light stretching or foam rolling in the evening to aid recovery and sleep. 54:30 – Tip #15: Have a 20–40g protein shake about 30 minutes before bed to support overnight muscle repair and growth. 57:40 – BONUS TIP!: Learn how to outperform the masses by doing what most climbers won't. 1:01:57 – Wrap-up: Final thoughts, resources, and how to connect. Stay Connected with Coach Hörst and Training for Climbing 📬 Join the Newsletter: Get a monthly dose (or two) of exclusive training tips delivered straight to your inbox! Sign up at TrainingForClimbing.com—just enter your name and email in the popup. 📱 Follow Eric Online: Instagram: @eric_horst | @training4climbing Twitter: @Train4Climbing YouTube: Training For Climbing Channel Facebook: Training For Climbing 🎧 Support the Podcast Sponsor: Fuel your performance with PhysiVantage Nutrition—formulated for climbers, trusted by pros. Use checkout code PODCAST15 at PhysiVantage.com to save 15% on full-priced items (North America only). 🌍 Outside North America? Order from EPIC-TV Shop or BananaFingers.com. 👟 SAVE on La Sportiva shoes here >> 🙌 Thanks to our supporters: La Sportiva, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs, PhysiVantage Nutrition 🎵 Music by Misty Murphy 💬 Love the podcast? Leave a 5-star review on Apple Podcasts and share this episode with a friend who climbs! © 2025 Eric Hörst | Horst Training, LLC. All rights reserved.

What does it take to break through to the next climbing grade? With each new milestone, the challenge grows harder—but potentially more rewarding. In this special collaboration with The Struggle Podcast, I coach Ryan Devlin as he works to push past his current limit of 5.13a and lay the foundation for his next breakthrough in sport climbing. No matter your level, the tips and strategies we share in this episode can help guide your own climbing progression. A key focus of our conversation is the concept of building a solid "grade pyramid"—a proven approach for long-term advancement. This episode follows up on episodes #86, #91, #94, and #102, where I've been coaching Ryan on his journey toward his first-ever 5.13. You'll get an inside look at where he stands as of April 2025, and the specific training and climbing recommendations I've made for his upcoming summer season, all with an eye toward peaking in the prime conditions of Fall. Tune in to learn actionable strategies, exercises, and mindset shifts to support your next goal—whether that's your first 5.10 or your hardest send yet. This episode is a collaboration of Ryan's "The Struggle" podcast and my Training For Climbing podcast. I hope you enjoy it! Listen to and subscribe to The Struggle Podcast here >> T4C Podcast sponsor -- Visit PhysiVantage.com the leader in climbing-specific performance nutrition. Get 15% off full-priced items with checkout code: PODCAST15 (North America only). Europe and elsewhere visit EPIC-TV Shop or BananaFingers.com to get your PhysiVantage! SAVE on La Sportiva shoes here >> Thank you! La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs Music by Misty Murphy Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing Check out Eric's YouTube channel. Follow Eric on Facebook! And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing Copyright 2025 Eric Hörst | Horst Training, LLC.

The podcast is a classic Eric Hörst tour de force of climbing wisdom! No matter your ability level, training background, or goals, listening to this episode will challenge your current approach and inspire you to reinvent your training for better results. In this hour-long lecture, Coach Hörst breaks down 10 common training mistakes. Chances are, one, two, or maybe even several of these missteps will hit close to home. But don't get discouraged—get psyched! Identifying these flaws empowers you to train smarter day in and day out, and to course-correct your long-term plan. That's the key to unlocking more effective training—and real gains on the rock! Start your journey toward better training and harder climbing today! RUNDOWN 0:16 - Welcome statement... 0:53 - Eric introduces the powerful topic of correcting common training mistakes. Whether you're current in a serious training block or just doing weekday maintenance training as a tune-up for weekend sending, this is a must-listen episode.  1:50 - Common Mistake #1: Training without a well-designed and personalized plan for improvement. 5:20 - Mistake #2: Copying someone else's training program (aka "copy cat training") 9:30 - Mistake #3: Doing the exact same workout over and over without modification, progression, or deload periods. (aka "Groundhog Day" Training) 16:28 - Mistake #4: Doing little or no sub-maximal climbing (aka always projecting, limit climbing, and "competing with yourself"). Listen to the first in a series of five T4C podcasts on Energy System Training >> 25:15 - Mistake #5: Not doing any generalized aerobic training [Brief Commercial Break] - SAVE 15% on PhysiVantage Nutrition >> (code: PODCAST15) 33:45 - Mistake #6: Doing little or no max-strength finger flexor training 40:37 - Mistake #7: Doing little or no antagonist and stabilizer muscle training 44:45 - Mistake #8: Getting drawn into a serious weight lifting, body building, or cross-fit style program 50:00 - Mistake #9: Ignoring -- and training through -- developing aches and pains Listen to T4C podcast #39 on the "Perfect Storm" for climbing injuries >> 59:00 - Mistake #10: Overeating (or undereating) and failing to provide your body with the energy and building blocks needed to gain strength, endurance, resilience, and recovery faster. 1:09:30 - Eric serves up his final thoughts on how you can use the informtion from this podcast to take your climbing to the next level! 1:10:30 - Eric invites you to sign up to his Training For Climbing Newsletter...for a monthly dose (or two) of training content to your inbox! Go to TrainingForClimbing.com and enter your name and email in the pop up box that appears. Contact Eric on Instagram @eric_horst or @training4climbing -- subscribe to Eric's T4C YouTube channel. *** Save 15% on PhysiVantage Nutrition with checkout code: PODCAST15 *** Support the Training For Climbing podcast sponsor, PhysiVantage. Get 15% off full-priced nutrition for strength gains, endurance, recovery, and injury resistance. Use checkout code: PODCAST15 (North America only). Europe and elsewhere visit EPIC-TV Shop or BananaFingers.com to get your PhysiVantage! PLEASE write a 5-star review on Apple Podcasts and SHARE this podcast with a friend! SAVE on La Sportiva shoes here >> Thank you! La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs Music by Misty Murphy Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing Check out Eric's YouTube channel. Follow Eric on Facebook! And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing Copyright 2025 Eric Hörst | Horst Training, LLC.

In this episode, I reveal a powerful — and often overlooked — strategy for developing the mental, technical, and tactical skills needed to level up your climbing. If you're an intermediate climber passionate about improving — or an advanced climber who's hit a plateau — then this is a must-listen episode. Even veteran climbers and professionals can use this strategy to refine their skills and "sharpen the saw" each season. America's top sport climber, Jonathan Siegrist, has shared with me that he enjoys and benefits from this approach to route climbing. So, what is this mysterious climbing strategy? Listen in now to find out! RUNDOWN 0:16 - Welcome statement... 0:38 - Eric sets the stage for revealing a powerful route climbing strategy that really can level up your mental and technical climbing skills. This approach to route climbing is NOT "projecting" or "onsight" climbing... (Learn more about projecting from T4C podcasts #76, #53, and #12 4:00 - What is this powerful strategy? 6:19 - Learn the 6 powerful benefits of climbing with the intention for second-go sending of a route. 13:50 - Do you need more endurance? Faster recovery? More stamina when climbing at elevation? Learn about SENDURE-X from PhysiVantage. Save 15% with checkeout code: PODCAST15 at PhysiVantage.com 15:20 - Learn 7 tips and techniques for excelling at second-go climbing 16:05 - 1. Pick the right grade of route for leveraging the second-go strategy. 18:35 - 2. Pick the right belayer to endure the belay duty of your first go! 20:10 - 3. Work the crux sequence thoroughly! Think out of the box and experiment with a range of beta solutions. Take special note of the "feel beta" of you sequence you settle on. 22:10 - 4. Use tickmarks (judiciously) as visual cues for a critical foot or hand hold. 23:00 - 5. Find the obvious rests...and search for inobvious, but possibly vital nuanced rest positions for the send go. 24:05 - 6. Be sure you know the easier sections of climbing -- they might not feel so easy on point! 25:15 - 7. BELIEVE in the second-go send!  27:00 - What to do if you don't send? 29:00 - What's the best ratio of onsight, project, and second-go climbing? 30:30 - Eric's summary tips, comments, and best wishes. Contact Eric on Instagram @eric_horst or @training4climbing -- subscribe to Eric's T4C YouTube channel. *** Save 15% on PhysiVantage Nutrition with checkout code: PODCAST15 *** Support the Training For Climbing podcast sponsor, PhysiVantage. Get 15% off full-priced nutrition for strength gains, endurance, recovery, and injury resistance. Use checkout code: PODCAST15 (North America only). Europe and elsewhere visit EPIC-TV Shop or BananaFingers.com to get your PhysiVantage! PLEASE write a 5-star review on Apple Podcasts and SHARE this podcast with a friend! SAVE on La Sportiva shoes here >> Thank you! La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs Music by Misty Murphy Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing Check out Eric's YouTube channel. Follow Eric on Facebook! And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing Copyright 2025 Eric Hörst | Horst Training, LLC.

Welcome to the first episode in a special series of performance-focused conversations with my friend, Dr. Thomas Cunningham. In this fast-paced discussion, we dive into a wide range of topics, including tips for optimizing climbing training, injury prevention, key dietary interventions, performance hacks, and the role of self-discipline and sacrifice. We also explore best practices tailored for hard-training climbers over 35. No matter your age, this episode is packed with actionable insights you can start applying today! RUNDOWN 0:15 - Coach Eric Hörst's welcome statement. 0:30 - Introduction of my guest, Thomas Cunningham, MD. 2:40 - Thomas' bio and backstory  3:20 - "Medicine 3.0" ...aka functional medicine to optimize health and performance. 6:00 - Overview of topics we'll be covering today. 7:35 - Tips for older climbers. 10:00 - The importance of being intentional in your training. 11:00 - Eric's use of 2-a-day workouts. 13:00 - Scheduling your workouts. 15:45 - Specificity of training. 17:30 - Strive for "injury avoidance" mindset. 19:50 - Training and time hacks for busy individuals. 21:00 - Thomas' tips for effective cragging and projecting. 24:00 - The benefits of having a home training wall and/or equipment. 27:50 - Eric's "do something every day" MO for older athletes. 29:00 - Scheduling aerobic vs. anaerobic training sessions. 30:30 - A quick review of some popular training and bio-hacks. 31:35 - Daily protein requirements for hard-training climbers. 33:20 - Pros and cons of fasting... 36:00 - Protein timing and use of supplemental protein for reaching daily protein targets. 38:00 - Thomas and Eric serve up a few things they wish they knew when they were younger climbers. 38:45 - Proactive approach to injuries... 40:15 - Learning to listen to your body's sensations...and heeding its warning signals. 41:20 - Developing self-awareness of your recovery status. 42:20 - The vital importance of actual climbing time (over time spent strength and fitness training). 44:45 - Developing better recovery practices. 46:00 - Importance of a proper warm-up process before climbing. 46:45 - The power of self-discipine and sacrifice in the long-term pursuit of your climbing potential. 48:20 - Eric's metaphor of "taking your foot off the break...and going full gas" with your climbing! 50:35 - Wrap up 50:50 - Contact information for Eric -- DM @eric_horst on Instagram 51:10 - Watch this interview on Eric's T4C YouTube channel. Subscribe! 51:15 - Please leave a review on Apple Podcasts 51:40 - Goodbye and "Hörst Out! *** Save 15% on PhysiVantage Nutrition with checkout code: PODCAST15 *** Support the Training For Climbing podcast sponsor, PhysiVantage. Get 15% off full-priced nutrition for strength gains, endurance, recovery, and injury resistance. Use checkout code: PODCAST15 (North America only). Europe and elsewhere visit EPIC-TV Shop or BananaFingers.com to get your PhysiVantage! PLEASE write a 5-star review on Apple Podcasts and SHARE this podcast with a friend! SAVE on La Sportiva shoes here >> Thank you! La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs Music by Misty Murphy Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing Check out Eric's YouTube channel. Follow Eric on Facebook! And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing Copyright 2025 Eric Hörst | Horst Training, LLC.

Dear Listener, How about -- together -- we all try to SEND 2025? In other words, let's try to upgrade our thoughts and actions in all we do to make 2025 our best year yet! Towards this end, in this episode I will serve up tips for improving your training, elevating your climbing, and advancing in other important life areas! RUNDOWN 0:15 - Eric's greetings... 0:45 - Introductory comments on striving to live your dream life...in climbing and beyond. 3:38 -  Upgrade #1: Improve your time management to maximize time spent engaged in important activities. 10:33 - Upgrade #2: Level-up your training by cutting the "fluff", adding some novelty, and targeting your weaknesses. 20:10 -  Upgrade #3: Elevate your thoughts and take control of your self-talk to help drive massive action towards your goals. 29:50 - Upgrade #4: Refine your day-to-day nutrition to support energy, focus, strength gains, recovery ability, and injury resistance. *** Calculate your personal protein requirements with this research-based online calculator. *** 37:21 - Upgrade #5: Analyze and better manage your stress levels. Strive to reduce (or eliminate) "bad stress", while seeking out and embracing sources of "good stress." 45:12 - Eric's summary tips, comments, and best wishes. Contact Eric on Instagram @eric_horst or @training4climbing -- subscribe to Eric's T4C YouTube channel. *** Save 15% on PhysiVantage Nutrition with checkout code: PODCAST15 *** Support the Training For Climbing podcast sponsor, PhysiVantage. Get 15% off full-priced nutrition for strength gains, endurance, recovery, and injury resistance. Use checkout code: PODCAST15 (North America only). Europe and elsewhere visit EPIC-TV Shop or BananaFingers.com to get your PhysiVantage! PLEASE write a 5-star review on Apple Podcasts and SHARE this podcast with a friend! SAVE on La Sportiva shoes here >> Thank you! La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs Music by Misty Murphy Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing Check out Eric's YouTube channel. Follow Eric on Facebook! And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing Copyright 2025 Eric Hörst | Horst Training, LLC.

In this brief episode, I invite you to join my "Send 2025" New Year's Challenge! JOIN the SEND 2025 CHALLENGE by filling out this brief Google Form >> I designed this free 6-week challenge to help motivate and inspire a fresh, focused, and optimistic start to the new year...and hopefully help you set off on your best year ever! The challenge is action-oriented -- so we'll ask you to set some achievable short-term goals to reach for during the 6-weeks of the challenge. These action items can relate to your training and nutrition goals for the new year, but also target bad habits you'd like to change…or other behaviors that are holding you back from reaching the next level in climbing, in your career or relationships, or any other important life area. To serve as your North Star for this challenge, we will ask you to select a specific "Challenge Goal" for the 6 weeks of the contest, as well as set a "Send 2025 Mega Goal" that you'll be working towards throughout the year ahead. We hope that with our encouragement and support you will reach all your goals big or small! ************************************* JOIN the SEND 2025 CHALLENGE by filling out this brief Google Form >> ************************************* SUPPORT THE TRAINING FOR CLIMBING PODCAST! Visit our sponsor PhysiVantage Nutrition at PhysiVantage.com and get a 15% discount on full-price items with checkout code: SEND15. European climbers can get PhysiVantage from the EPIC-TV shop and BananaFingers.com SAVE on La Sportiva shoes here >> Thank you! La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs Music by Misty Murphy Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing Check out Eric's YouTube channel. Follow Eric on Facebook! And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing Copyright © 2000–2024 Eric J. Hörst | All Rights Reserved.

The title of this podcast may have you thinking "WTF?" Well, this is a special episode of the T4C podcast...and I think you're going to really enjoy it! THE Alex Megos has recently launched his own podcast, and during his recent visit to the States he asked me to sit down for a conversation about the history of training, personalized program design, nutrition and recovery, and much much more.  Of course, I was excited for this unique opportunity...and we had a very lively hour and ten minute conversation that I think every stoked climber will enjoy! There's lots of talk of training and nutritional nuance...and numerous wide-ranging clues for elevating your performance. Listen in! Here's a rundown of some key moments: 0:30 - Eric's intro to this collaboration with the new Alex Megos podcast on Spotify and YouTube Channel. 2:40 - To begin, Alex asks about my backstory as a climber...and my interest in training for climbing. 5:30 - Some interesting training history. 9:00 - Beginning of climbing performance research. 10:10 - The importance of a personalized approach to climbing and performance. 10:40 - The role of genetics and natural talent. 12:40 - The value of having a veteran coach. 17:00 - A "get the basics right" approach to training. 20:00 - Mental aspects of climbing hard...and the complexities of our sport. 23:05 - It's NOT always about the grades! 24:00 - A bit about Eric's twin careers... 29:00 - Diet and nutritional mistakes. 32:00 - Importance of protein for hard-training athletes. 33:45 - Vitamin D deficiency is not uncommon...and potentially impactful on health and performance. 36:00 - A primer on the research and optimal use of hydrolyzed collagen. Also, the backstory on Supercharged Collagen. 40:00 - Potential benefits of beetroot supplements, such as PhysiVantage Sendure X. 44:00 - The best supplement for climbers? 45:00 - Alex and Eric discuss the benefits (and potential draw backs) of Creatine Monohydrate supplementation. 51:00 - Personalized nutrition 52:30 - Becoming an effective self-coach. 54:50 - The power of Discipline. 58:00 - Finding the right level of commitment for reaching your goals. 58:50 - How near is 5.16a/9c+? 59:50 - A few questions from listeners... 1:02:30 - Pros/cons of being on a ketogenic diet for athletes? 1:05:40 - Are all carbohydrates basically the same? 1:06:50 - Using a continuous glucose monitor (CGM) 1:08:45 - Nutrient timing. 1:12:00 - Alex's closing comments 1:13:00 - Links to the new Alex Megos podcast on Spotify and Alex & Chris Hanke's awesome YouTube Channel! 1:14:00 - Eric's final comments  SUPPORT THIS PODCAST! Visit PhysiVantage.com and get a 15% discount on full-price items with checkout code: SEND15. European climbers can get PhysiVantage from the EPIC-TV shop and BananaFingers.com SAVE on La Sportiva shoes here >> Thank you! La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs Music by Misty Murphy Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing Check out Eric's YouTube channel. Follow Eric on Facebook! And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing Copyright © 2000–2024 Eric J. Hörst | All Rights Reserved.

In this episode, coach Hörst shares 13 little things that can make a BIG difference when it comes to sending your near limit—or, perhaps, beyond limit!—project boulder or route. Quite often it's the tiniest of things that can make or break your ascent. Eric covers a lot of territories including the power of proper breathing, the best time of the day to send, the effects of food and drink on energy and focus, how to get the perfect warm-up, how long to rest between attempts, how to win the skin game, the importance of the shoes you wear, how your thinking can make or break a send go, and so much more. RUNDOWN 3:40 - 13 Little Things That Make a BIG Difference When Limit Climbing 4:15 - 1. The first "little, big thing" is to breathe more intentionally. Learn how to do it...to save energy, accelerate recovery, and help maintain focus and confidence. 10:30 - 2. Climb during the optimal time of the day. Learn how to plan your send goes for your strongest (and the stickiest) time of day. 14:17 - 3. Eat & drink appropriately. Learn how much you should drink and eat for a short session--or a full day--at the boulders or crags. 20:00 - 4. Empty bladder and bowels beforehand. Learn how to deal with golf ball bladder...and lighten the load before your send go. Click here for information about the benefits of MAG-ATP supplement from PhysiVantage. 26:30 - 5. Get a perfect warm-up! Learn the 7 steps of doing a perfect pre-send warm-up. Also, listen to Podcast #67 for a comprehensive discussion of the physiology of getting properly warmed up for hard climbing. SPONSOR MESSAGE: Less pump, more endurance -- Sendure X! Visit PhysiVantage.com and get a 15% discount on full-price items with checkout code: PODCAST15. European climbers can get PhysiVantage from the EPIC-TV shop and BananaFingers.com 32:13 - 6. Don't Take Any Wasted Any Goes! AKA make every go count! Don't start up the climb with any uncertainty in beta. If needed, take a practice go (with hangs) to sure-up your beta. 39:43 - 7. If needed, take a practice go (with hangs) to sure up your beta. 41:41 - 8. Rest appropriately between goes. How minutes (or hours) should you rest between boulder problem and sport climb attempts? 45:03 - 9. Rest optimally on the route. Climb fast and rest well! Know how to use optimally whatever rests the boulder or route offers you! 46:13 - 10. Win the skin game! Learn how to make your skin last longer... 51:03 - 11.  Brush the most critical holds! This is critical for increasing friction on small, slopey holds. Brush liberally. 52:28 - 12. Make sure you're wearing the right shoes for the boulder or route at hand. If you're not packing in two different pairs of shoes, you should consider it! 55:13 - 13. Believe in a positive outcome, but let go of the need to succeed. Accept that the send will happen when it's meant to happen. Enjoy climbing the piece of rock in front of you...and take it one move at a time. 58:43 - Bonus Tip: Have a great belayer you can trust…AND a stoked and supportive ground crew that knows when to yell encouragements at you…and when to shut up and let you take care of business. 1:00:38 - Do YOU have a favor send tip? Share your "little, big" send tip to Eric and perhaps he'll feature it on a future podcast. You can leave your tip on Eric's Twitter @Train4Climbing or on the Training for Climbing Instagram @Training4Climbing or T4C Facebook page. PLEASE write a 5-star review on Apple Podcasts and SHARE this podcast with a friend! SUPPORT THIS PODCAST! Visit PhysiVantage.com and get a 15% discount on full-price items with checkout code: PODCAST15. European climbers can get PhysiVantage from the EPIC-TV shop and BananaFingers.com SAVE on La Sportiva shoes here >> Thank you! La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs Music by Misty Murphy Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing Check out Eric's YouTube channel. Follow Eric on Facebook! And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing Copyright © 2000–2024 Eric J. Hörst | All Rights Reserved.

One of the ironies of climbing performance outcomes is that as hard as you've physically trained in preparation, the outcome often hinges on the quality of your mental game. The power point, here, is that when it comes down to the final days and hours leading up to an important climb, the keys to performing your best are largely mental! While many athletes "shoot themselves in the foot" in any number of ways in the days or hours leading up to competition — or even during the sports event itself! — a well-coached and mentally apt and experienced individual will act in deliberate ways to set the stage for peak performance. Towards this end, I'm going to detail 8 so called "last-minute" things you can do (or not do) that will help set the stage for climbing your best when it counts most. The more of these items that you deliberately optimize, the better you'll sort of stack the deck for performing your best when it counts. Support the TFC podcast...and amplify your training and performance with PhysiVantage Nutrition! This month (Rock-tober) only, get 20% off full-priced nutrition with checkout code: PODCAST20 (North America only). In Europe and elsewhere visit EPIC-TV Shop or BananaFingers.com to get your PhysiVantage! Links to more Training For Climbing! The Power of Pre-Climb Rituals >> 10 Does and Don'ts of Effective Redpointing >> How To Develop Stronger Fingers and Tendons for Climbing >>   Music by Misty Murphy SAVE on  La Sportiva shoes here >> Thank you! La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing Check out Eric's YouTube channel. Follow Eric on Facebook! And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing Copyright 2024 Eric Hörst | Horst Training, LLC.

This 20-minute flash episode will delve briefly into two topics: 1. Popular training biohacks, including sauna use, cold plunge, and intermittent fasting.  2. The value of getting an occasional blood work-up to monitor how your health and performance-related biometrics change as a result of diet, training, and aging. This episode features an interview I did earlier this year with Kush Khandelwal of The Ageless Athlete podcast. T4C Podcast sponsor ==> Visit PhysiVantage.com the leader in climbing-specific performance nutrition. Get 15% off full-priced items with checkout code: PODCAST15 (North America only). Europe and elsewhere visit EPIC-TV Shop or BananaFingers.com to get your PhysiVantage! SAVE on La Sportiva shoes here >> Thank you! La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs Music Remix of the Police Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing Check out Eric's YouTube channel. Follow Eric on Facebook! And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing Copyright 2024 Eric Hörst | Horst Training, LLC.

This 15-minute flash episode will delve briefly into two topics: 1, Stretching for climbers -- learn what to do and when. 2. Recent injury trends...and the number #1 thing you can do to lower your injury risk. This episode features an interview I did earlier this year with Kush Khandelwal of The Ageless Athlete podcast. T4C Podcast sponsor ==> Visit PhysiVantage.com the leader in climbing-specific performance nutrition. Get 15% off full-priced items with checkout code: PODCAST15 (North America only). Europe and elsewhere visit EPIC-TV Shop or BananaFingers.com to get your PhysiVantage! SAVE on La Sportiva shoes here >> Thank you! La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs Music Remix of the Police Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing Check out Eric's YouTube channel. Follow Eric on Facebook! And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing Copyright 2024 Eric Hörst | Horst Training, LLC.

In this Flash episode, I'm going to talk briefly about raising happy, healthy kids with a passion for climbing! There's no "right" way to raise kid climbers...but I'm going to share the approach that my wife and I used to develop well-rounded kids who, today as young adults (ages 22 and 24), love climbing more than ever! This episode features an interview I did earlier this year with Kush Khandelwal of The Ageless Athlete podcast. T4C Podcast sponsor ==> Visit PhysiVantage.com the leader in climbing-specific performance nutrition. Get 15% off full-priced items with checkout code: PODCAST15 (North America only). Europe and elsewhere visit EPIC-TV Shop or BananaFingers.com to get your PhysiVantage! SAVE on La Sportiva shoes here >> Thank you! La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs Music: Remix of The Police Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing Check out Eric's YouTube channel. Follow Eric on Facebook! And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing Copyright 2024 Eric Hörst | Horst Training, LLC.

This month, I'm serving up multiple "Flash Episodes" of the T4C podcast -- released weekly -- that you can consume in less than 20 minutes.  The topics covered in this first episode...include the pros/cons of online coaching...and a generalized look at how training (and nutrition) for climbers has changed over the last 40 years. Upcoming Flash Episodes in September (released weekly) will examine these topics: How to raise kid climbers...to be happy, healthy athletes...and, hopefully, pass on the gift of becoming a climber for life. How (and when) to stretch and train flexibility for climbing. Also, a pithy discussion of climbing injury trends. Potential benefits (and drawbacks) of ice baths (or cold plunges), intermittent fasting, and sauna use. This episode features an interview I did earlier this year with Kush Khandelwal of The Ageless Athlete podcast. T4C Podcast sponsor ==> Visit PhysiVantage.com the leader in climbing-specific performance nutrition. Get 15% off full-priced items with checkout code: PODCAST15 (North America only). Europe and elsewhere visit EPIC-TV Shop or BananaFingers.com to get your PhysiVantage! SAVE on La Sportiva shoes here >> Thank you! La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs Music by Misty Murphy Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing Check out Eric's YouTube channel. Follow Eric on Facebook! And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing Copyright 2024 Eric Hörst | Horst Training, LLC.

What does it take to climb your first 5.13a? In this episode, you'll hear my recommendations for Ryan Devlin as he closes in on completing his first 5.13a, a Red River Gorge classic named "The Force". This is a follow-up to episodes #86, #91, and #94, in which I coach Ryan through the long process of training for and working on his first-ever 5.13. You will hear where Ryan is at with his project--you'll learn some of his struggles along the way, including a minor finger/hand injury early this year. We'll discuss Ryan's training plan for the next 6 to 8 weeks until the Autumn "send season" arrives. We'll also dig deep into these important topics:  What went right and wrong on the almost-send last season How to carry a project over from one season to the next The secret to being a successful route climber Aerobic vs Anaerobic endurance training The science of building route fitness Why many climbers are training endurance wrong So lean into this podcast and learn what actions, exercises, and strategies you might take and apply to your training for the next goal or grade, whatever it may be! This episode is a collaboration of Ryan's "The Struggle" podcast and my Training For Climbing podcast. I hope you enjoy it! Listen to and subscribe to The Struggle Podcast here >> T4C Podcast sponsor -- Visit PhysiVantage.com the leader in climbing-specific performance nutrition. Get 15% off full-priced items with checkout code: PODCAST15 (North America only). Europe and elsewhere visit EPIC-TV Shop or BananaFingers.com to get your PhysiVantage! SAVE on La Sportiva shoes here >> Thank you! La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs Music by Misty Murphy Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing Check out Eric's YouTube channel. Follow Eric on Facebook! And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing Copyright 2024 Eric Hörst | Horst Training, LLC.