The Sunshine Gardening Podcast

In the "How to Manage Needle Cast Disease in Kentucky" episode of the Sunshine Gardening podcast, host Kristin Hildabrand discusses needle cast disease affecting spruce trees with expert Kim Leonberger. They cover symptoms, climate impact, and management strategies, emphasizing tree health and suitable species selection over fungicides. Resources for further education are also provided.

In this episode of the Sunshine Gardening podcast, host Kristin Hildabrand and horticulture expert Jessica Hopkins discuss home composting. They cover essential materials, equipment, and maintenance tips for effective composting, while emphasizing the balance of brown and green materials. The conversation includes troubleshooting common issues and resources for beginners.

In episode forty-four of the Sunshine Gardening Podcast, host Kristin Hildabrand and expert Jared Weaver discuss urban tree challenges, including improper placement, drought, and pest management. They offer practical insights into effective tree care strategies, such as deep watering, proper mulching, and soil testing, underscoring environmental stewardship and proactive urban forestry efforts.

In the Sunshine Gardening podcast, host Kristin Hildabrand discusses self-wicking raised beds with guest Dr. Steve Higgins from the University of Kentucky. They explore the benefits of these innovative gardening methods for efficient watering and strong plant growth. The episode highlights ergonomic advantages, construction costs, and maintenance tips for gardeners.

In episode forty-one of the Sunshine Gardening podcast, Kristin Hildabrand interviews Matt Dixon, a senior meteorologist, about weather's influence on agriculture in Kentucky. They discuss a new weather alert app designed for farmers, featuring current conditions and forecasts. Matt highlights the app's benefits, success stories, and the importance of accurate weather communication for effective farming.

In this Sunshine Gardening podcast episode, host Kristin Hildabrand and guest Chris Schalk discuss the importance of winterizing lawn mower equipment to protect both functionality and financial investment. They cover practical steps, common mistakes, maintenance tips for various tools, and encourage involving younger generations in the process for skill development and interest in mechanics.

In this episode of the Sunshine Gardening podcast, host Kristin Hildabrand speaks with Jared Weaver, Bowling Green's City Arborist. They discuss the importance of tree pruning during "Tree Week," covering best practices, timing, techniques, safety precautions, and resources for homeowners. The episode emphasizes maintaining tree health and landscape aesthetics.

The Sunshine Gardening podcast episode features Kenneth Clayton from the University of Kentucky discussing lawn establishment and renovation for cool-season grasses in Kentucky during the fall. He covers methods for renovation, emphasizes fall timing, and provides maintenance tips. Listeners are encouraged to participate in an evaluation survey and access additional resources.

In this episode of the Sunshine Gardening podcast, Dr. Ric Bessin, an entomologist from the University of Kentucky, explains the beneficial nature of Cicada Killer Wasps. These wasps control cicada populations, are generally non-aggressive, and should not cause undue concern. He also highlights their positive environmental contributions and encourages minimizing pesticide use.

In episode thirty-two of the Sunshine Gardening podcast, host Kristin Hildabrand and Dr. Matthew Springer, a wildlife management expert, discuss strategies for controlling moles, voles, chipmunks, and the emerging issue of armadillos in lawns and gardens. Dr. Springer emphasizes the importance of setting realistic management goals and preserving wildlife benefits while managing their drawbacks.

Orchids are a popular and colorful addition to any home setting. In this episode of the Sunshine Gardening Podcast, I called up Dr. Rick Durham, Extension Professor and Consumer Horticulture Specialist to have him answer common questions about how to properly care for orchids in the home! To get the full scoop on showing orchid love in the home, stay right here for more on the Sunshine Gardening podcast! Tell us about some of the common orchid types for the home. Phalaenopsis – Moth Orchid – Southeast Asia Often considered easiest to growEpiphyticRequire moderate light and good moistureTemperatures of mid 60s night, 70-80 daysFlower spikes often produce new buds after floweringMay bloom anytime of the year, many flowersIndividual flowers last from a few days to a month or more Moth Orchids Dendrobium – many resemble Phalaenopsis, Philippines, Australia, East Asia EpiphyticMore light than PhalaenopsisTemperature variable, most require nights of 55-60, daytime in 70-80.Somewhat forgiving of dry medium –pseudobulbs, some like a dormancy periodSeasonal bloom periodsFlowers may last for 6 weeks or more Dendrobium Orchids What kind of care is needed to keep orchids happy at home? Tell us more about the cultural requirements needed for orchids such as light, growing media, and humidity. Light• Orchids generally need bright, often indirect, light• Those listed above will grow in the home under proper conditions• Southeast or south exposure window is best for those needing lots of light: Cattleya, Oncidium, Dendrobium, close to window• East or west exposure window is best for lower-light species: Phalaenopsis and Paphiopedilum• No mid-day sun for any, may benefit from summers outdoors but no direct mid-day sun• Also - possible to grow orchids under lights Epiphytes - grow on trees• Light, airy growing medium• Tree fern fiber, fir bark, sphagnum peat, vermiculite, redwood fiber, lava rock, mounted on cork• Pots should have ample drainage• Pot-in-pot systems may increase humidity around root system, avoid standing water• Repot every 2-3 years as medium breaks down and plants out grow their pot• The presence of aerial roots is normal and healthy• Soft, dark colored roots are a sign of too much water Humidity• Many orchid species are native to tropical rain forests• Home humidity levels can be quite low (both summerand winter)• Avoid drafts of forced air (hot and cold)• Use room humidifier, group plants together, or place plants on pebble-filled trays with water• Spraying plants with water is less beneficial• Orchids may benefit from summers outdoors– protect from mid-day sun– step up watering and increase fertility How often should you water orchids? How often should you apply fertilizer? Watering• Water often enough so that medium stays moist, brief periods of dryness is ok• Pots will become light – indication that water is needed• If water accumulates in saucer or outer pot, pour it out soon after watering• Ice can be used as a substitute for watering, I prefer to do so only occasionally• Note pseudobulbs – They should be plump and firm, naturally shrivel with age Fertilization• Fertilization is most crucial when new growth is occurring (after flowering)• Orchids are not heavy feeders• I fertilize about once a month with a ¼ strength soluble house plant fertilizer• I generally fertilize more in summer when I also water more If someone wanted to learn more about orchids, what resources are available? For more information, check out these resources: • American Orchid Society, www.aos.org • Wikipedia, www.wikipedia.org – search for various types of orchids• Various on-line forums and web sites including YouTube videos of how to…. I hope that you enjoyed our discussion today on showing orchid love in the home! A special thank you to Dr. Rick Durham for being our guest on the Sunshine Gardening Podcast! To view the show notes for Episode 21, make sure to visit me on the blog at Warren County Agriculture! You can find us at warrencountyagriculture.com. If you enjoy listening to the Sunshine Gardening Podcast, I would love if you could take a quick minute of your time to leave a review. Leaving a review is simple! Just pop open that purple app on your phone, share your biggest takeaway from an episode or what you would like to hear featured in the future! Thanks for listening gardeners! As always, keep digging into gardening and remember to add a little sunshine!

Don't put that trowel and rake away just yet! This year’s gardening season may be over, but it can also be a great opportunity to start preparations for next year’s gardening season. Taking care of a few garden clean-up chores now means fewer pests and disease problems which leads to a more productive garden for next spring!  To help shine the light on garden clean-up, I contacted Kim Leonberger, our UK Agriculture Extension Associate to get the checklist needed to help take the guesswork out of garden clean-up. To hear the full episode, make sure to stay right here for Episode 20 of the Sunshine Gardening Podcast! Why do we clean up?Plant pathogens such as fungi, bacteria, and viruses can survive in plant debris and on items in the garden.Cleaning-up helps to remove these pathogen structures so that they do not survive winter and come back to cause issues next year.Failure to clean-up can result in more disease next year.What gardening activities should we consider to help clean-up our gardens for the winter?Remove plants and plant debris.Turn soil when possible.Clean tools, stakes, cages, decorations, pots and other items from the garden.Do not compost diseased plant material.Diseased plant material should be burned, buried, or taken off-site.Home compost bins do not get hot enough to kill these plant pathogens.Large-scale, commercial compost piles do get hot enough to kill pathogens.Some communities have yard waste pick-up, which go to a large compost pile. It is ok to put diseased material here.Cleaning toolsCleaning products (soaps and detergents) remove loose organic matter. Products include dish soap, hand soap, some household cleaners.Disinfection products (disinfectants/sanitizers) have anti-microbial activity and can kill disease-causing micro-organisms. Products include rubbing alcohol (70%), 10% bleach (9 parts water and 1 part bleach), hand sanitizer, some household cleaners.Steps to cleaning toolsClean and scrub to remove organic matter.Rinse to remove any residues.Disinfect – Follow product directions. Most require a dip, soak, or spray. Be sure to note exposure time. A lot of products it is between 3 and 5 minutes. Bleach is the most effective and requires 30-45 seconds. However, bleach is corrosive so a rinse is need to limit effects. Make sure to never mix bleach with other cleaning products as a toxic gas can form.Rinse and Dry.Example of cleaning a tool – Wash with dish soap to remove soil and other organic matter. Rinse and dry. Dip in 10% bleach solution for 30-45 seconds. Rinse in clean water (not the same as before). Dry with a paper towel. I hope that you enjoyed our discussion today on garden clean-up! A big thank you to Kim Leonberger for being our guest on the Sunshine Gardening Podcast! To view the show notes for Episode 20, make sure to visit me on the blog at Warren County Agriculture! You can find us at warrencountyagriculture.com. Kim Leonberger, UK Agriculture Extension Associate Additional informationExtension publications available at https://plantpathology.ca.uky.edu/extension/publicationsSpecifically have publications on sanitation and cleaning garden tools.Kentucky Pest News is a weekly newsletter that comes directly to your inbox and provides information from specialists about diseases, insects, weeds, and other problems. https://kentuckypestnews.wordpress.com/ Subscribe to Kentucky Pest News - https://uky.us3.list-manage.com/subscribe?u=9dec271e3ce221c39a07750cc&id=bee884adb8Find us on Social MediaFacebook – https://www.facebook.com/KYPlantDisease/Twitter - https://twitter.com/KYPlantDisease

There is no better symbol for the month of October than the pumpkin! While pumpkins are widely used throughout the fall season to decorate the home, many people associate them with Halloween. Nowadays, pumpkins have expanded from the traditional orange Jack o Lantern pumpkin into a wide variety of shapes and colors. To find out more about pumpkins, I called up my good friend and co-worker Metcalfe County Extension Agent for Agriculture and Natural Resources Brandon Bell. While talking to him, I discovered tips for picking the best pumpkin and how to properly store them at home. What I didn’t expect to learn was the better and more efficient way for carving my Jack o’ lantern! To find out this secret to carving pumpkins this season, make sure to stay right here on the Sunshine Gardening Podcast! Pumpkin Displays at the Cheekwood Gardens in Nashville, TN There are a lot of different varieties of pumpkins that are available to the public to purchase. Tell us about some of those varieties and what trends you might have noticed with some of those varieties. Pink Pumpkin. The first pick pumpkin developed was called a 'Porcelain Doll'. Growers had to sign a contract to give some of their proceeds back to breast cancer awareness. Blue Black Large White Pumpkins Green Yellow Orange Red Various Pumpkin Varieties A lot of these pumpkin varieties that you can find in these colors are stackable pumpkins, especially the orange and burnt orange and red Cinderella pumpkins. Most retailers will sell you a stack of pumpkins. Cinderella pumpkins were the original stacker pumpkin, and then later they started incorporating other colors. Looking for texture? Warty pumpkins and peanut pumpkins offer some unique shapes on the outside of the pumpkin. How should you select the best pumpkin? What things should we look for to buy a good pumpkin? Stackables pumpkins- get pumpkins that match each other. the flatter they are they better, Cinderella on bottom Jack o’ lantern is shape, and will sit up on its own. Hard texture as far as the rind. Make sure that it is hardened off. Firm, stout green stems. Avoid shriveled up and soft stem. Pick up the pumpkins by the bottom rather than from the stem. Look for an overall good shape and color. Earlier in the season, the stems are still green. A good stem means a lot. A bad stem will cause decay to form earlier. As far as helping these pumpkins last during the season, what things can we do to encourage a longer lasting pumpkin? OR are there things that we don’t want to do. Wait as late as possible to carve the pumpkins. Keep them under cool, dry and shady spot. Keep them out of direct sun. Clean the pumpkin with a 10 percent bleach solution to help them last longer. What is the best way to carve a Jack o' lantern pumpkin? Anytime that you expose the internal flesh of a pumpkin, it will start to decay. I have learned over the years with Jack o' lantern pumpkins is to not cut the top off of it. It is actually better to cut it from the bottom of the pumpkin. Whenever the pumpkin starts to decay, it easily moves down the pumpkin. Cut the part from the bottom. It makes it harder for decay to move up from the bottom. Do you have a favorite pumpkin?  Old fashioned field pumpkin called ‘Autumn Buckskin’. People would refer to them as the cow pumpkin. Years ago, farmers would plant corn and mix pumpkin seed in with their corn for a companion crop. They would harvest their corn by hand and then also load the pumpkins on a wagon. Then, they would bust the pumpkin up and feed it to the cattle. Once the cattle acquire the taste of pumpkin, they will eat the entire pumpkin. It is basically the same pumpkin that you would find in a can of Libby’s pumpkin. Libby's produces 85% of the US canned pumpkin.    I hope that you enjoyed our discussion today on tips for the best pumpkin. Thank you to Brandon Bell for being our guest on the Sunshine Gardening Podcast! To view the show notes for Episode 18, make sure to visit me on the blog at Warren County Agriculture. You can find us at warrencountyagriculture.com. Thanks for listening gardeners! As always, keep digging into gardening and remember to add a little sunshine!

Emerald Ash borer was discovered in Warren County, Kentucky back in July of this year 2021. Since Emerald Ash Borer was found in Kentucky in 2009, it has progressively spread throughout the state and destroyed several of our prized ash trees. The damage caused from Emerald Ash borer feeding brings on a lot of questions from Kentucky homeowners on: What control options are available? What trees can be replanted after the ash trees decline? These questions are all going to be answered in episode 17 of the Sunshine Gardening Podcast! In this episode, I chat with University of Kentucky Forestry Health Extension Specialist Dr. Ellen Crocker to ask specifically what options are available for Kentucky residents. To listen to the full episode, make sure to stay right here on the Sunshine Gardening Podcast! Tell us more about the emerald ash borer and what damage it causes to Ash trees in Kentucky. The emerald ash borer is an invasive insect from Asia. It is actually a beetle. Our ash trees do not have a good defense mechanism to them. It can rapidly kill ash trees. Since it was first discovered in Michigan in 2002 and since that time, it has swept through the country. It has killed millions of ash trees. Just this past year, especially in Western Kentucky there have been several new sightings. Larvae tunnel and kill the vascular tissue of the tree. Most homeowners will miss the insect damage. Less healthy tree? Missing part of the tree? Lots of damage done from the feeding. "D" shaped exit holes are found on the outside edge of the tree due to the shape of the abdomen. In Kentucky, we have several varieties of ash. White and green ash trees are the most damaged. The blue ash have more natural resistance to it. What homeowner options are available to help control this invasive insect pest? Ask yourself “do you have ash trees on your property?” You can apply yourself or contact a certified arborist in your area to apply the insecticide. There are several insecticides sold for control of emerald ash borer. Soil drench with imidacloprid to treat annually. Make sure to follow the label directions. Application amount is based on how big the trunk diameter is in size.  Treat annually with imidacloprid. Certified arborists are paid professionals through the International Society for Arboriculture (ISA). A few other things to consider about treating trees for EAB. Look at it as a protective insecticide application. The insecticide are systemic insecticides. So it may or may not be effective. Prioritize the trees that you want to save. Consider the costs associated with them. Time treatment according to the timing of the emerald ash borer. What challenges does that bring to the woodlands or in the landscape? Ash trees deteriorate rapidly. However, it doesn’t hurt the wood. Unfortunately, when they start to go downhill, they break apart. Other things start to happen when the tree can’t defend itself anymore. Ash are pretty hazardous to work with. Harvest your ash trees and offset the costs. In some properties, it can be 20-30 percent. Reach out to foresters in your local area. Consulting foresters will help you with making decisions. Can you recommend other trees for replacing damaged ash trees? Learn from the elm tree story. Replace with more than one species of tree. I recommend planting with a diversity of tree species. Consider a diversity of native species. We have an abundance of native plant species in the United States. Kentucky has over 100 native tree species. Pick the right tree for the right site. There is more than one choice. Take note of how wet the area and the soil type. Do you power lines overhead? Maybe you can choose something smaller. Looking for ideas? Visit a local garden or arboretum to get ideas. A few of Dr. Ellen's favorite trees: Large shade trees: Oak species. Good shape. Good for wildlife. Great fall color? Black Gum is an underused tree that has good fall color. https://www.uky.edu/hort/Black-Gum Statement piece for winter? Kentucky coffee tree. https://www.uky.edu/hort/Kentucky-Coffeetree Catalpa tree. https://www.uky.edu/hort/Northern-Catalpa Bald cypress. Deciduous conifer. https://www.uky.edu/hort/Bald-Cypress Smaller trees? Yellow wood. Serviceberry. https://www.uky.edu/hort/Yellowwood https://www.uky.edu/hort/Downy-Serviceberry Laurie Thomas, Extension Forester with UK Forestry and Natural Resources spotlights a Native Tree of the Week during From the Woods Today program. To find out more information, go to https://anr.ca.uky.edu/tree-week-0. KY Invasive Plant Council- native alternates to invasive plants https://www.se-eppc.org/ky/KY_native_alternatives.pdf If someone wanted to learn more about emerald ash borer, what resource or website would be good for them to visit? University of Kentucky Extension Entomology’s Department for Emerald Ash Borer: https://entomology.ca.uky.edu/entfact/kentucky-emerald-ash-borer-eab-resources-updates Purdue University Emerald Ash Borer Cost Calculator: https://int.entm.purdue.edu/ext/treecomputer/ I hope that you enjoyed our discussion today on the Emerald Ash Borer and the damage it can cause. A special thank you to Dr. Ellen Crocker for providing her expertise and being a guest on the Sunshine Gardening Podcast! If you would like to see the show notes from Episode 17, make sure to visit me on the blog at Warren County Agriculture. You can find us at warrencountyagriculture.com. Thanks for listeners gardeners! As always, keep digging into gardening and remember to add a little sunshine!

If you have walked through the garden lately, you may have noticed several spiders. Now for some people, the thought of a spider makes them want to jump out of their shoes! But interestingly enough, spiders play an important role in a healthy ecosystem and there are benefits to having them in the garden. To help explain more about spiders, I called up Dr. Ric Bessin, University of Kentucky Extension Entomologist to discuss more about the specific types of spiders found in Kentucky. I was amazed to learn about all the different types of spiders and the benefits that they can offer in our environment! So, make sure to stay right here on the Sunshine Gardening Podcast to hear the full interview!   Introduction Spiders are known as "arachnids," and they all have 8 legs, 2 body parts (cephalothorax and abdomen), and no antennae.  Arachnids also have fang-like mouthparts called "chelicerae" which insects do not have.  Insects and arachnids both belong to the same Phylum (Arthropoda), but insects are not arachnids, and arachnids are not insects.Spiders can be distinguished from other arachnids in Kentucky by the connection between the abdomen and the cephalothorax.  In spiders, the connection between the cephalothorax and the abdomen is a narrow stalk.  In other Kentucky arachnids, the connection between the two body regions is broad, so that the distinction between the cephalothorax and abdomen is not obvious. (Newton & Townsend, 2010) There are many different types of spiders found in Kentucky. Here are a few types mentioned in this podcast episode. Types of Spiders Wolf spiders Size: Wolf spiders range in size from tiny (the size of a pencil eraser) to about the size of a U.S. silver dollar, with legs outstretched Color: There are many species of wolf spiders in Kentucky, but most are dark or light brown, usually with contrasting spots or stripes. Features: Wolf spiders are fast-moving and they are typically seen running on the ground. They are not web builders. Notes: Wolf spiders often wander into homes. Because they are brown in color, wolf spiders are often mistaken for brown recluses. Like most Kentucky spiders, the bites of wolf spiders are harmless except to allergic individuals. Wolf spiders are among the most common kinds of spiders in Kentucky. (Newton & Townsend, 2010) Funnel web/grass web spiders Size: About the size of a U.S. quarter, with legs outstretched.Color: Brown with prominent longitudinal gray or tan stripes. Features: Prominent hind spinnerets: these are two, small, finger-like projections on the end of the grass spider's abdomen (used to spin the web). Many other spiders have spinnerets, but they are very large and distinctive in grass spiders. Notes: Grass spiders are very common in Kentucky lawns where they build large, funnel-shaped webs. They also occasionally wander into homes. Because they are brown and of a similar size, grass spiders are often mistaken for brown recluses. Like most Kentucky spiders, though, the bites of grass spiders are harmless except to allergic individuals. (Newton, Townsend, 2010) Fishing spiders Size: A little larger than a U.S. silver dollar, with legs outstretched.Color: Brown with contrasting, darker brown patterns. Features: Very large brown spiders; sometimes seen running on the ground or sitting motionless on tree trunks. Notes: Fishing spiders are common near streams and wooded areas in Kentucky, and they sometimes wander into nearby homes. They are among the largest spiders in our state, but they are not considered dangerous. Like most Kentucky spiders, the bites of fishing spiders are harmless except to allergic individuals. They are sometimes mistaken for brown recluse spiders, but adult brown recluses are smaller and lack the fishing spider's distinct dark brown patterning. (Newton & Townsend, 2010) Jumping spiders Size: Typical jumping spiders are about the size of a U.S. dime, with legs outstretched. Color: There are many species of jumping spiders in Kentucky. Many are gray or black, while some are vividly colored. Features: Jumping spiders have distinctive, large eyes and a "flat faced" look. They are characterized by quick, herky-jerky motions and they do not build webs. Notes: Jumping spiders are common on the outsides of homes and buildings and they often wander into homes. Because some are brown in color, jumping spiders are sometimes mistaken for brown recluses. Like most Kentucky spiders, though, the bites of jumping spiders are harmless except to allergic individuals. (Newton, Townsend, 2010) Crab spiders Size: Typical crab spiders are about the size of a U.S. nickel, with legs outstretched. Color: There are many species of crab spiders in Kentucky. Some are brown or tan, but most common species are bright white or vivid "neon" green or yellow. Features: Crab spiders are low and flat and their front two pairs of legs are very long. Crab spiders are not web builders. Notes: Crab spiders are very common in Kentucky flowers (where they hunt for bees), but they sometimes wander into homes. Because some crab spiders are brown in color, they are occasionally mistaken for brown recluses. Like most Kentucky spiders, the bites of crab spiders are harmless except to allergic individuals. (Newton & Townsend, 2010) Orb web spiders Size: Orb weavers range in size from tiny (the size of a pencil eraser) to a little larger than a U.S. silver dollar, with legs outstretched. Color: There are many species of orb-weaver spiders in Kentucky. Some are solid tan or brown, while others are colorful with vivid patterns. Features: Orb weavers are distinguished by their webs: no other common Kentucky spiders make organized, circular, grid-like webs. Orb weavers are almost always encountered inside their webs. Notes: Orb weavers are commonly found on porches and gardens in Kentucky, especially in late summer. Occasionally, they will wander into a home and build a web in a doorway or windowsill. Some orb weavers are very large, but, like most Kentucky spiders, the bites of orb weavers are harmless except to allergic individuals. The Yellow-and-black Argiope (pictured below, top left), one of the largest spiders in Kentucky, is a type of orb weaver. (Newton & Townsend, 2010) Harmful Spiders There are two Kentucky spiders that can cause harm to humans: the black widow spider and the brown recluse spider. Tan to dark brown, a brown recluse’s abdomen and legs are uniformly colored with no stripes, bands, or mottling. The legs are long and thin and lack conspicuous spines. They have a dark violin-shaped mark on their back, with the neck of the violin pointing toward the rear of the spider. This feature is consistent in adult brown recluses, but is less obvious in younger spiders. Their bites are serious and require immediate medical attention, but brown recluses are timid and unlikely to bite unless handled. These spiders are common in all areas of Kentucky. They tend to occur in hidden locations indoors and outdoors, such as piles of cardboard or paper, stacks of cut wood and wall-voids of buildings. Black widow spiders are also common throughout the state. The female black widow is about a half-inch long and is glossy black with a variable number of red markings on the top and/or bottom of her abdomen. Adult males smaller and are similar in color, but with a few added white markings. Juveniles are highly variable. Their bites are very serious and require immediate medical attention, but the spider is timid and unlikely to bite unless handled. They tend to hide out in concealed outdoor locations such as piles of rocks or firewood and dark corners of garages and out-buildings. Females are common; males are very rarely encountered. If interested in learning more information about spiders found in Kentucky, check out the Critter files that are posted on the University of Kentucky Extension website. Find the link to these files posted below in the references section. Field guides can also be a useful tool to keep on hand. I hope that you enjoyed our discussion today with Dr. Ric Bessin on Garden Spiders in Kentucky! A big thank you to Dr. Ric Bessin for being our guest! Dr. Ric Bessin, University of Kentucky Extension Entomologist Thanks for listening to the Sunshine Gardening Podcast! As always gardeners, keep digging into gardening and remember to add a little sunshine! References: Newton, B. & Townsend, L. (2010, January). Urban spider chart. University of Kentucky College of Agriculture. https://entomology.ca.uky.edu/spider-chart#widow. Bessin, R. & Newton, B. (2016, May 18). Kentucky Critter Files. University of Kentucky Department of Entomology. http://www.uky.edu/Ag/CritterFiles/casefile/casefile.htm.

Winter time is the perfect time to plan for the garden. Have you ever thought about plants that would be best for creating winter interest? These plants provide beautiful winter interest through exfoliating bark, unique foliage, and interesting berries, fruits, and even cones. In this episode, I am chatting with Dr. Win Dunwell, University of Kentucky Extension Horticulture Specialist who’s area of specialization is Nursery and Landscape. In our chat, he recommends several winter hardy plants that would make ideal candidates for providing winter interest in Kentucky’s garden and landscape. To listen to the full episode, stay with me right here on the Sunshine Gardening Podcast! Plants with Winter Features: Ilex species Winter Red Ilex verticillate- still one of the best Aronia arbutifolia Brilliantissima Hammamelis virginiana Sunglow Pinus densiflora 'Oculus Draconis' / Dragon's Eye Japanese red pine. Remontant azaleas – Autumn Royalty Tulip tree the left over seeds heads after seed has blown away look like little candelabras can be cut for table settings Edgeworthia chrysantia zone 7 blooms over long period white creamy fragrant blooms on bare coarse stems. Barks – lighting trunks Persimmon bark dark blocks Host plant to Luna Moth Sycamore London Plane tree cultivars look great in the winter back yard with trunk lighting Stewartia pseudocamellia Hardy Camellias Leave perennials and grasses foliage and seed heads Rhodea japonica green leaves and fruit (later than Jack in the pulpit or Green Dragon) Hellebores I have SunShine Selections from Barry Glick’s Sunshine Farm and Gardens in West VA Yucca Color Guard Pachysandra procumbens Lycoris radiata foliage Arbovitaes turn brown but Eastern Red Cedar cultivars like Greenpoint and Taylor along with Juniperus chinesis Trautman Snowdrops Rose Hips Rosa rugosa, Carefree series, even Knockouts Tips for hips: Select roses with single, semi-double, or otherwise cupped-bloom form. Stop pruning around September 1st. Provide adequate irrigation with good drainage. Encourage pollinators, like bees and other insects, to visit your roses by creating a naturalized edge or hedgerow. Allow blossoms to fade and fall off of the plant naturally. Uses for hips: Clip single or clusters of rose hips and use in floral arrangements, wreaths, and holiday garland. Wash, remove stems and coarsely chop for use in recipes to make jams, jellies, juices, and more. (Never use rose petals or hips sprayed with chemicals in any food product.) https://www.heirloomroses.com/info/care/roses/roses-with-hips/ Walk in the woods the leaves of spring flowering native orchids are showy on the brown leaves of the trees leaves especially the one with green top and purple underside to the leaf, Tipularia discolor, Cranefly orchid, Aplectrum hyemale, Putty-root.  The leaves are more showy than the flower stalks.  Once you have seen the leaves and flowers you will find them very common to the area where they occur. Early spring Pachysandra Cornus mas and C. officinales bloom Feb-March I hope that you enjoyed our discussion today over Creating Winter Interest in the Garden! To view the show notes for Episode 14, make sure to visit me on the blog at Warren County Agriculture. A big thank you to Dr. Win Dunwell for being our guest! Thanks for listening to the Sunshine Gardening Podcast! Gardeners keep digging into gardening and remember to add a little sunshine!

I have just the activity to help YOU chase away the winter blues! It involves taking 15 minutes of your time and watching the birds in your backyard. This activity my friends is called the Great Backyard Bird Count and it is happening this year on February 12-15th 2021. This activity is coordinated by the National Audubon Society and other organizations to serve as an instant snapshot of birdlife around the world. Since bird populations are constantly changing, the information you collect from the GBBC helps scientist understand how birds are affected by environmental changes. The data collected over the years can display how certain species’ of bird populations are increasing or decreasing. It can also show scientists what kinds of birds are inhabiting cities and suburbs compared to the natural areas. In this episode, I am visiting with Dr. Matthew Springer, our Assistant Extension Professor of Wildlife Management with the University of Kentucky to get the scoop on what all is involved with this Great Backyard Bird Count! Dr. Matthew Springer, Assistant Extension Professor of Wildlife Management Before we dive into today’s content, I have a favor to ask! If you enjoy listening to the Sunshine Gardening Podcasts, let me know with a REVIEW on Apple Podcasts! Leaving a review is simple! Just pop open that purple app on your phone, share your biggest takeaway from an episode or what you would like to hear featured in the future! As always, thank you for listening and leaving a review about the podcast!   To listen to the full episode, make sure to see the audio link at the bottom of this blog post. Remember to mark the calendar for the Great Backyard Bird Count happening February 12th until February 15th because it’s a fun and rewarding experience for people of all ages! It encourages gardeners to venture outside….or they can watch inside from their kitchen window! If you would like to participate in other bird counts, Dr. Springer also mentioned about the Christmas Bird Count. To find out more about the Christmas Bird Count, please see the link listed here:  https://www.audubon.org/conservation/science/christmas-bird-count Also below, I have listed more information about the Merlin app and the eBird app that Dr. Springer mentioned in the talk today as well as where to get more information about the Great Backyard Bird Count! Thanks for listening to the Sunshine Gardening Podcast! Gardeners keep digging into gardening and remember to add a little sunshine! Helpful Resources: Bird Identifying Apps to Use: https://merlin.allaboutbirds.org/, https://www.birdcount.org/ebird-mobile-app/ How to participate in the Great Backyard Bird Count, https://www.birdcount.org/

Have you ever started seeds at home? What was the outcome? Were the seedlings leggy and stretched? Did the seedlings die?   If these are some experiences that you have had, no more! Today, on episode 1 of the Sunshine Gardening Podcast, I will share secrets to growing seeds indoors successfully. This information will make the difference and I assure that you will have healthier plants to transplant later into the garden. Stay with me to hear what secrets I have for starting seeds indoors for the Kentucky garden. The joys of starting seeds Starting seeds indoors can be such a rewarding experience for many gardeners! The thought of planting small seeds in the soil, watching them emerge each day, handling the tiny seedlings, and seeing them develop into young plants just warms my soul! Then, when the time is conducive for planting outdoors, gardeners can transplant their seedlings into the ground to watch it grow and mature further into an adult plant. This process from seed to plant is pure satisfaction and gratification for avid home gardeners! Home gardeners are able to grow new, improved, and unusual plant varieties that they might not find available at local garden centers or nurseries. For instance, if you can’t find an heirloom tomato variety called ‘Hillbilly Potato Leaf Tomato’, get seed from another grower and grow it yourself. Gardeners can be the best source for heirloom varieties. Another added benefit with starting seeds at home is that gardeners reduce the amount of time required between planting and harvesting of at least 4 to 8 weeks. This my friends is music to my ears! What to know ahead of time? While starting seeds indoors is fun, it does require time and patience from gardeners. Regular monitoring of transplants is essential. Check seedlings daily for water and to see if any additional fertilizer is needed. Growing seeds at home will require equipment such as grow lights, maybe a plant stand if growing several different plants, trays to support the developing plants, and possibly a timer system. Cost of this equipment be based on your needs, so make sure to budget for them.  List of materials for starting seeds indoors 1. Seed Find a reputable source for seed. Companies that are reputable will stand behind their product and replace seed if there is a problem. Make sure seed varieties are locally adapted to the area.   For recommendations on vegetables, check out ID-133. It lists vegetable cultivars that are suitable for Kentucky.  Seeds sold in packages should display the crop, cultivar, germination, percentage, and chemical seed treatments, if any. Make sure to pay close attention to the sell by date. Inspect the seed before starting. Buy new seed since some seeds over a year old will not germinate (sprout) well. 2. Artificial Lighting A lot of gardeners that I talk to one on one at the Extension Office mention to me that they start their seeds in the windowsill. In other areas of the United States, this area may be fine, but for Kentucky, we get poor results when starting seeds in the windowsill. Seedlings turn out leggy and stretched where they are trying to reach the light. Options may be to use cool white fluorescent lamps alone, use a mixture of cool white and warm white fluorescent lamps, or a mixture of cool white and plant growth fluorescent lamps. All of these options are acceptable. Position the lamps 5 to 10 inches above the foliage. Operate them 12 to 18 hours/day. It might be a good idea to purchase a timer that will allow the lights to come on and off automatically. Keep seedlings cool enough about 60 to 65 degrees Fahrenheit for strong, sturdy growth after germination occurs. Do-it-yourself (DIY) grow light stand constructed out of PVC pipe 3. Soil Media Mix A desirable soil medium for starting seed should be loose, well-drained and fine-textured. It should not contain any disease causing organisms or significant amounts of fertilizer. Prepared media possessing these traits are available commercially, or component material can be purchased individually and mixed at home. Soilless mixes are inert mixes containing no soil that are available for starting seeds. They are usually composed of a combination of peat moss and vermiculite or perlite. These can be purchased ready-made or can be mixed at home. Note that if using these mixes, they have little fertility, so seedlings must be watered with a diluted fertilizer solution. 4. Containers Containers for starting seeds should be sterile and free from harmful chemicals. Previously used containers should be sterilized before use. Wash plastic or wooden containers thoroughly with soapy water to remove all debris. Then rinse containers by dipping them in a solution of one part chlorine bleach to nine parts water, and allow them to dry before filling with germination medium. Containers should also be sturdy and fit into the space available for growing plants in the home.  Plastic trays, fiber trays, or wooden flats Plants that are easy to transplant may be seeded directly into trays or flats for later transplanting into individual packs or pots, or wider spacing in flats.Starting seed in such containers saves space when compared with seeding directly into individual pots. Peat pots Biodegradable pots made from peat or paper waste fibers can be purchased individually or in strips or blocks. They are porous and provide excellent drainage and air circulation to the root zone. The entire pot can be planted. Compressed peat pellets Before hydration, peat pellets are about the size of a silver dollar but somewhat thicker.When placed in water, they swell to form a cylindrical netlike container filled with peat moss, ready for seeding or transplanting. Plant them directly into the garden.   Proper Planting Techniques   Step 1: Moisten the germination media. Fill the container to within ¾ inch of the top with the medium. Use a clean, small board to level the germination media and gently tap the container on a table or hard surface to remove any air bubbles. Step 2: If seeding in a tray or flat, use a ruler or even a large wooden plant label to make shallow rows 1 to 2 inches apart. If using only one variety of seed, scatter or “broadcast” the seed evenly over the soil surface. Now, if using different seeds in the same tray, make sure to label the rows with a plant label marked with the name of the cultivar. Step 3: Sow the seeds uniformly and thinly in the rows. For many small round seeds, drop them slowly in the rows by tapping the seed package over the row. Again, use a plant label for each row to distinguish the plant type, variety, and date of planting. Step 4: For large-seeded vegetables such as cucumber, cantaloupe, and watermelon, plant directly into containers such as peat pots. Other seeds may also be handled this way to save the gardener on transplanting. Step 5: Next, cover seeds with dry vermiculite or milled sphagnum moss. The depth of covering depends on the size of the seeds. Most fine seeds, like lettuce and petunia, need light to germinate and should not be covered. As a general rule, seeds other than especially fine seeds should be covered to a depth of 2 times their diameter. Step 6: Moisten the surface of the media with a fine mist. You can do this with a spray bottle of water. Step 7: Place the seeded container in a warm location under grow lights for germination. Generally, a range from 65 to 75 degrees F is best. Step 8: Inspect daily for germination. Seeds are quickly killed if allowed to dry during germination. Watch closely for development of any disease and, if evident, take control measure promptly. Other successful tips Moisture Good humidity and adequate water are necessary for producing good plants. Adequate watering implies keeping growing medium moist at all times but never soggy. Allow some drying between watering, but don’t allow seedlings to wilt at any time. FertilizationSeedlings will need some fertilization for best development. It is best to use a soluble houseplant fertilizer that is sold in garden centers, nurseries or plant supply sections of department stores. Apply fertilizer at about half the recommended strength a few days after seedlings have germinated. After that, fertilize according to the recommendations listed on the fertilizer label. Water and fertilize carefully.Thin out other seedlings to make more room in the plant row.  Hardening-off The process of hardening-off involves exposing transplants to cooler temperatures and giving them less fertilizer and water to “toughen” them. Begin the hardening off process about two weeks before planting in the garden. If possible, move plants to a shady, outdoor location with cooler temperatures. A cold frame is excellent spot for this purpose. When plants are first put outdoors, keep them in the shade, but gradually move them into sunlight for short periods each day, gradually increasing the length of exposure. Don’t put tender seedlings outdoors on windy days or when temperatures are below 45 degrees F. Reduce the frequency of watering to slow growth, but don’t allow plants to wilt.After proper hardening, plant transplants outdoors and light frosts will not damage them. By having the right materials and following the proper steps to growing seeds at home, gardeners can be more successful when starting seeds indoors. If you would like more information on starting seeds indoors, I highly recommend that you pick up a copy of the Home Vegetable Gardening in Kentucky publication also known as ID-128. This resource is great for learning more about home vegetable gardening in Kentucky from asparagus all the way to watermelon. For a link to this guide, make sure to see the show notes. Hope that you enjoyed this episode of the Sunshine Gardening Podcast! To see the

In the podcast episode, Dr. Ellen Crocker discusses invasive plants in Kentucky, highlighting their detrimental effects on local ecosystems. She emphasizes early detection and management strategies, encourages public reporting of invasives, and shares resources like a field guide. The episode promotes collaboration and proactive efforts to protect native landscapes.

In this episode of the Sunshine Gardening Podcast, host Kristin Hildabrand and guest Dennis Morgeson discuss growing garlic in Kentucky. They cover garlic varieties, planting techniques, soil preparation, care, harvesting, curing, and culinary uses. Listeners gain insights into cultivating garlic effectively while receiving tips to manage pests and storage.