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Gem Pursuit
Gem Pursuit
Author: Matthew Weldon of Courtville Antique & Vintage Jewellers
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Description
Uncover the dazzling history behind the world’s legendary jewels. Dive into the geological wonders that produce extraordinary gems, the brilliant minds who craft them into works of art and the unforgettable icons who bring them them to life on the world stage.
Follow Matthew Weldon, CEO of Courtville, as he leads a riveting adventure through the enchanting, mysterious realm of antique and vintage jewellery.
Never miss an episode, subscribe and stay tuned. Get social with Courtville, follow us on Instagram, Facebook, and TikTok
#jewelry #jewellery #arts #history #design #gemstones #antiquejewelry #artdeco #education #victorianera #edwardianera #vintagejewelry
108 Episodes
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In this festive special episode of Gem Pursuit, Matthew and Fenia answer your brilliant listener questions in a cosy, end-of-year Ask Us Anything special.
From spotting the subtle clues that date antique jewellery, to underrated gemstones, lost craft techniques, emotional motifs, and even the idea of cursed pieces, this episode is a wide-ranging chat for anyone who loves jewellery history and storytelling.
✨ Questions covered include:
• How do you really spot the characteristics of different jewellery eras?
• What gemstones deserve more love (and why does peridot divide opinion)?
• Old-cut diamonds you don’t see used today
• Can jewellery be cursed — and what should you do if it is?
• The most popular antique engagement ring settings
• Identifying yellow gemstones in antique rings
• Lost art forms and skills antique jewellers mastered
• Motifs with the deepest emotional power — then and now
• Paste jewellery and how it was historically worn
• How to spot gold plating versus solid gold (without testing)
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This podcast was produced for Courtville by Tape Deck
Jane Morris was a muse of the Pre-Raphaelites, a central figure in the early Arts & Crafts movement and the quietly powerful presence at the heart of an influential artistic circle.
In this episode, Matthew and Fenia explore the story behind Rossetti’s The Blue Silk Dress, focusing on the jewellery Jane wears and the symbolism carried within the portrait.
Drawing only on what is known from surviving records, letters and the painting itself, we trace Jane’s path from Oxford to her role within the Morris household and the artistic world that formed around it. The bracelet, the brooch, the rich textiles and embroidery — each reflects the ideals that would shape both the Pre-Raphaelite and Arts & Crafts movements.
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In this episode, we explore Andy Warhol’s silkscreen print portrait of Caroline of Monaco, created for Vogue in the early 1980s. We discuss the bold colours, big hair, bare-back pose, and the striking sapphire-and-diamond jewels that define the portrait’s 1980s style. We also look at the pop art movement, celebrity culture, and Caroline’s reputation as the “rebel princess”.
Beyond the portrait, we dive into two extraordinary pieces connected to Caroline: a Belle Époque reed stomacher symbolising resilience, and a 1910 platinum and blue-enamel Valkyrie-style headpiece with detachable wings. The conversation highlights her creative, versatile approach to jewellery and the multifaceted personality reflected in her portraits and pieces.
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In the latest episode of our Jewellery in Paintings series Matthew is joined by Courtville historian Fenia Sigkoudi to explore The Drake Jewel - a magnificent Renaissance pendant that intertwines art, politics and piracy!
Once gifted by Queen Elizabeth I to Sir Francis Drake, the jewel tells an extraordinary story of ambition, power and symbolism.
Matthew and Fenia trace how this locket became a statement of status, propaganda and personal connection between monarch and privateer. From its intricate cameo to its hidden “mask of youth” portrait, this episode uncovers the legacy of one of England’s most storied treasures.
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In this special episode of Gem Pursuit, we turn from the past to the present — and to one of the most daring jewellery thefts in recent memory.
In October 2025, eight pieces of the French Crown Jewels were stolen in broad daylight from the Louvre’s Galerie d’Apollon. Valued at €88 million, the missing treasures include the tiara of Empress Eugénie and the emeralds of Empress Marie Louise — jewels once worn at the height of imperial splendour, now vanished without a trace.
Matthew unpacks what happened, how the heist unfolded, and the remarkable stories behind each stolen piece. Were the thieves experts, opportunists, or just reckless? And could these legendary jewels one day resurface — as they have so many times before in history?
Watch this episode on YouTube and follow @gempursuitpod on Instagram for more stories from the world of antique jewellery.
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This podcast was produced for Courtville by Tape Deck.
In this brand new series of Gem Pursuit, we step into the world of fine art to uncover the jewels hidden on canvas. Jewellery in Paintings explores how artists captured the sparkle, symbolism, and status of gems throughout history.
We begin with one of the most iconic images in Western art: Johannes Vermeer’s Girl with a Pearl Earring. Often called the “Mona Lisa of the North,” this enigmatic portrait has fascinated viewers for centuries. But what about the jewel itself? In this episode, we explore the mystery of the pearl, what it reveals about 17th-century Dutch society, and why such a simple adornment continues to shine as a timeless ideal of beauty.
Whether you’re standing in front of the painting in The Hague or simply picturing it in your mind, this episode offers a sparkling new perspective on an old master.
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Matthew and Alyce welcome back renowned antique jewellery specialist Michael Singer, Director of Acquisitions at Windsor, New York.
Michael shares stories of some remarkable adventures from his decades in the trade including trading a 15th-century manuscript for a Kashmir sapphire, finding a one-of-a-kind Tiffany necklace with ties to the French royal family and bending the rules of an auction...for love!
Michael also reflects on the lost buzz of New York’s 47th Street, the importance of trusting your instincts, the influence of his father on his career and also shares numerous insider tips such as which antique jewellery he thinks is the most undervalued collectible in America today.
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This podcast was produced for Courtville by Tape Deck
We are delighted to be back from our summer mini-hiatus and have been busy working away on our exciting upcoming podcast series. We'll say no more about that for now....
In the meantime, something a little bit different - a solo Matthew episode, recorded at the Couture Show in Las Vegas back in May of this year. Courtville was exhibiting at the Antique Jewellery and Watch Show down the hall and were asked to give a talk at one of their educational events.
Matthew spoke to a live audience of jewellery salespeople but these are insights that will be just as relevant for people who are interested and curious about the history of jewellery design.
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This podcast was produced for Courtville by Tape Deck
For our 100th episode of Gem Pursuit, we’re throwing it back to one of your Firm Favourites — the legendary house of Lalique. This special episode marks not just a podcast milestone, but also the 100-year anniversary of the 1925 Exposition Internationale des Arts Décoratifs — the defining moment of the Art Deco era, and a showcase for Lalique’s visionary designs.
We revisit the artistry, innovation, and sheer drama of René Lalique’s work, from his pioneering use of materials to the way he blurred the boundaries between fine art and fine jewellery.
And to celebrate 100 episodes together, we’re playing a one-off game: The Jewel-y-weds Game — where Alyce and Matthew test how well they really know each other after a hundred episodes of sparkling stories, tricky trivia, and heated debates.
Thank you for joining us on our Gem Pursuit. Here’s to the next hundred!
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This podcast was produced for Courtville by Tape Deck
In this special series of Gem Pursuit, we put a spotlight on some of the most important Cartier pieces of the 20th century, currently on display at the V&A museum in London.
In each episode, we take a closer look at a different extraordinary piece, uncovering its story, design, and place in jewellery history.
This is your audio guide to the Opal Tiara, once worn by Mary Alice Cavendish, Duchess of Devonshire. Set with luminous opals and shimmering diamonds, this ethereal tiara captures a moment when Cartier reimagined regal tradition with a fresh, modern elegance. In this episode, we explore the design that crowned a duchess and the craftsmanship that makes it timeless.
This item can currently be admired up close in the Tiara Room at the V&A exhibition in London - the final gallery of the exhibition.
If you can't make it to the exhibit, check out the V&A website and view the pieces for yourself.
www.courtville.ie
Get social with Courtville, follow us on Instagram, Facebook, and TikTok
This podcast was produced for Courtville by Tape Deck
In this special series of Gem Pursuit, we put a spotlight on some of the most important Cartier pieces of the 20th century, currently on display at the V&A museum in London.
In each episode, we take a closer look at a different extraordinary piece, uncovering its story, design, and place in jewellery history.
This is your audio guide to the diamond and rock crystal cuffs worn by screen legend Gloria Swanson. Bold, striking and unapologetically modern, these cuff bangles were more than accessories - they were a statement, on and off the silver screen.
In this episode, we explore the story of their incredible design and the star who made them so iconic.
These items can currently be admired up close in the Film Room at the V&A exhibition in London - the final gallery of the exhibition.
If you can't make it to the exhibit, check out the V&A website and view the pieces for yourself.
www.courtville.ie
Get social with Courtville, follow us on Instagram, Facebook, and TikTok
This podcast was produced for Courtville by Tape Deck
In this special series of Gem Pursuit, we put a spotlight on some of the most important Cartier pieces of the 20th century, currently on display at the V&A museum in London.
In each episode, we take a closer look at a different extraordinary piece, uncovering its story, design, and place in jewellery history.
This is your audio guide to the Amethyst Bib Necklace, a vivid and sculptural piece created by Cartier for Wallis Simpson, the Duchess of Windsor.
We explore how this daring jewell didn’t just complement a look, it defined one. A bold necklace for a bold woman in a bold era, and a perfect example of jewellery leading the way in personal style.
It can currently be admired up close in the Royal Room, at the V&A exhibition in London — the fourth gallery in sequence from the start of the exhibition.
If you can't make it to the exhibit, check out the V&A website and view the pieces for yourself.
www.courtville.ie
Get social with Courtville, follow us on Instagram, Facebook, and TikTok
This podcast was produced for Courtville by Tape Deck
In this special series of Gem Pursuit, we put a spotlight on some of the most important Cartier pieces of the 20th century, currently on display at the V&A museum in London.
In each episode, we take a closer look at a different extraordinary piece, uncovering its story, design, and place in jewellery history.
This is your audio guide to the Egyptian Revival scarab brooches, captivating jewels that blend ancient symbolism with 20th-century glamour. These brooches bring to life the fascination with Egypt - AKA Tutmania - that swept through art and design in the early 20th century, inspiring intricate craftsmanship and bold, exotic motifs.
They can currently be admired up close in the World Room - the second gallery from the beginning of the exhibition.
If you can't make it to the exhibit, check out the V&A website and view the pieces for yourself.
www.courtville.ie
Get social with Courtville, follow us on Instagram, Facebook, and TikTok
This podcast was produced for Courtville by Tape Deck
In this special series of Gem Pursuit we put a spotlight on some of the most important Cartier pieces of the 20th century which are currently on display at the V&A museum in London.
In each episode, we take a closer look at a different extraordinary piece uncovering its story, design, and place in jewellery history.
This is your audio guide to the Mountbatten Bandeau, a remarkable jewell for so many reasons: intricately carved gemstones, 'tutti frutti' design, indian inspiration, royal ties, incredible craftsmanship and timeless elegance. Whether you're standing in front of the piece at the museum or listening from the comfort of home, this episode offers a deeper insight into the sparkle behind the glass.
It can currently be admired up close in the Gemstone Room, at the V&A exhbition in London, the sixth gallery in sequence from the start of the exhibition.
If you can't make it to the exhibit, check out the V&A website and view the pieces for yourself.
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This podcast was produced for Courtville by Tape Deck
The second part of our Titanic special looks in detail at two passenger stories from the disaster and what we can learn about their lives and the time period from the jewellery and other personal items that were recovered from the wreck.
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This podcast was produced for Courtville by Tape Deck
We all know the story of the sinking of the RMS Titanic but something that's lesser known is what specific jewellery and other luxury items were on board the most opulent ship on earth when it sank to the bottom of the Atlantic.
In the first two parts, Matthew and Alyce look closely at some of the insurance claims made after the disaster, which provide an insight into one particularly incredible (and huge!) personal collection which includes Bermese Rubies, Colombian Emeralds and a mysterious Pink Diamond that may have partly inspired Kate Winslet's necklace in the 1997 movie!
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This podcast was produced for Courtville by Tape Deck
The third and final part of our St Patrick's series for March (a few days late!).
The prevalance of bog in Ireland makes us one of the best places in the world to find the unusual material known as Bog Oak and it makes some amazing jewellery.
Matthew and Alyce talk through how Bog Oak is formed, how it has been used to make jewellery and share some of their favourite examples from history.
Matthew also shares the incredible story of the Bog Oak piece that was hidden in the shop for 40 years!
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This podcast was produced for Courtville by Tape Deck
A special St Patrick's Day episode celebrating what is perhaps one of the most historically significant pieces of Irish jewellery ever discovered.
Matthew and Alyce talk through this incredibly intricate and sophisticated piece in detail, giving an insight into its function and importance in Early Medieval Ireland.
We also hear the story of its discovery, the origin of the name, and it's lasting impact on jewellery worldwide.
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This podcast was produced for Courtville by Tape Deck
Gem Pursuit is doing a special run of Irish-themed episodes for the month of March!
In this first one, we explore the courtship and romance of Michael Collins and Kitty Kiernan - a love story set against the backdrop of Ireland’s fight for independence.
Through published letters and diaries, we journey into the private world of one of Ireland's most significant political and military figures. It reveals a man deeply devoted to his beloved. At the heart of this story lies a symbol of love and loyalty: a diamond engagement ring.
Alyce examines the evidence to build up a picture of the piece in question while Matthew explores a possible family connection to its sale!
Join us as we uncover the story behind one of Ireland’s most iconic engagements.
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This podcast was produced for Courtville by Tape Deck
To mark an end to Valentine's weekend, we thought we would do a special Gem Pursuit episode to share a few stories of marriage proposals down through history including the first ever diamond solitaire engagement ring (the real first one!) as well as the fascintating story of how Martin Luther and Katharina von Bora wound up getting hitched.
We also discuss some of the sweetest (and funniest) proposal stories shared with us by some of our listeners which includes settings as romantic as a graveyard, a fairy fort and a cowshed!
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This podcast was produced for Courtville by Tape Deck




