Cooking Issues with Dave Arnold

Dave kicks off another anything-goes Tangent Tuesday with a stack of updates: upcoming guests Paul Carmichael and Dennis (with Momofuku/Kabo context) and a correction on the “German” drop-off that turns out to be Austrian—complete with scarlet runner beans and pumpkin seed oil for the canonical salad. From there it’s pure free-association cooking brain: the French galette des rois vs. other king-cake traditions, why grill marks are mostly a bad signal (and grill pans are worse), and Dave’s long-running dream of a bar “piñata service” that doesn’t involve handing drunk people a bat—now migrating toward a spring-loaded destruction machine. Quinn talks baguette iteration (including gelatin experiments), Dave dives deep on vintage Crisco lore and beta-carotene fry-color hacks, and the crew detours through oddball old cookbooks, “Japanese fruit cake” naming insanity, and a near-electrocution tale from rewiring a century-old Hamilton Beach mixer. The back half hits listener Q&A: milling/sifting guidance, lacto-ferment oxygen management, and circulator recommendations (with a pragmatic “watts + insulation matter more than marketing” take). Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.

This week is a rapid-fire run of Cooking Issues staples: why most store carrots are trash (and why frozen veg is usually the correct move for pot pie), biscuit technique tweaks (including grating frozen butter), and a pie-crust method that splits the fat for a “medium” flake. From there it’s gear-and-systems nerdery: a Seattle Ultrasonics knife test, pro home-kitchen “hacks” (deli containers, tape/Sharpie, restaurant-supply pans, freezing bases), and a long, detailed breakdown of home carbonation—carbonators, cold plates vs. chillers, line materials, compensator taps, and why soda guns lose CO₂. The back half hits listener questions on Soxhlet extraction, nitro vs. nitrous, red-hot poker construction, oat-milk eggnog separation, and a precise carbonated French 75 base spec to close. Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.

The crew checks in live from Rockefeller Center and quickly veers from Patreon housekeeping into Polymarket absurdities, restaurant closures, and the grim mechanics of auctioning off a closed kitchen. Jean details liquidating equipment (including a Rationale), while Dave unloads on bureaucracy, safety grounds left floating inside a brand-new Bosch oven, and the theoretical physics of jacking oven temps via PT1000 resistance sensors—plus reversible home steam-injection hacks that don’t involve drilling holes.Quinn talks risotto-style oats and fresh milling, and Dave breaks down grain texture, grinder damage myths, and why oats are mushy compared to rice. Listener questions round things out with astringency in drinks beyond tannins (bitters, resins, aromatics), blood-sausage preferences across styles, and how phosphoric acid can anchor a cola-like, carbonated amaro build. Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.

Cooking Issues opens the new year with Dave and Joe in-studio, plus Nastassia and Jack in LA and Quinn on Vancouver Island. Dave recaps a rough holiday detour: adopting a young cat that immediately got seriously sick, turning New Year’s into emergency vet care and force-feeding. Jack reports from a cross-country drive to clear out storage, including a stop at Richmond’s Gwar Bar, inspiring instant talk of a future show takeover. Dave also offers Patreon listeners first dibs on hauling away a free six-burner Wolf commercial gas range from the Lower East Side.The crew swaps holiday cooking notes (Quinn’s turkey biryani, a red wine pork stew), then veers into gear and technique: Dave experiments with Ray-Ban Meta glasses for POV kitchen content, discusses his new Bosch oven and stone/pizza setup logic, and takes a caller question on keeping orange oil in syrup—recommending gum arabic plus xanthan while explaining why “clear” emulsions are hard. Quick hits include a shout-out to Alba in LA, a party etiquette rant about grabbing a legend’s guitar, and Dave’s non-alcoholic bitterness hacks for diet soda (wormwood/gentian infusions). Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.

Katie Parla returns to talk about her new book Rome: A Culinary History Cookbook, including why she self-publishes, how she actually gets the writing done, and what it takes to shoot a full cookbook fast. Then it’s a deep Rome run: porchetta quality (and why most is mediocre), pajata, Roman pizza styles, and how “traditional” rules like guanciale-onlyand no cheese with seafood are more complicated than people claim. Plus: the practical cacio e pepe fix (cold-start paste), why bucatini is a problem, and a few Roman myths that don’t survive the paperwork. Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.

Kevin Jeung (Noma / Noma Projects) calls in from LA to talk about Noma’s upcoming Los Angeles pop-up and what it changes when you suddenly have citrus, avocados, and California seasonality on the table. Kevin walks through how the team is doing early-stage R&D—ingredient exploration, fermentation setup, and testing techniques for hard problems like cactus slime and variable produce.Dave detours into Denmark: Christmas market roast pork sandwiches, crackling technique, and what cut the Danes actually use (loin vs belly vs skin-on neck). They also get into Noma Projects curiosities like peach tree sap (rehydrated for a tendon-like chew), plus a few practical bar/kitchen notes: a clarified spec for the Brandy Savage cranberry cordial build, and a quick take on stabilizing acidic whipped cream (gel/fluid-gel approach vs citric acid straight into dairy). Closing beat: Kevin’s Turkey method for the Noma team—compound butter under the skin, and mayo outside for browning/crisping. Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.

Tune in for an all-tangent episode that's all over the map. Dave reports on a Copenhagen-inspired Danish pork sandwich project (crispy skin, red cabbage, remoulade, cucumber salad) plus pretzel-style brioche buns. Then it’s rapid-fire listener Q&A: Fernet ice cream without wrecking the freeze (boil off alcohol), why venison oxidizes when sliced, brining curve calculators, popping sorghum, and a quick hit of Dave’s vegan foamer ratios—before the crew closes out with a full-on rant about food mills. Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.

Dave is back with a packed studio and longtime friend of the show Nick Coleman — olive oil educator, sensory expert, and musician behind HGH — fresh off a trip to Greece teaching at the International Olive Oil Network. They go deep on how to detect defects in olive oil by smell alone, why fruité noir works when done intentionally, olive fly maggots, pruning for quality fruit, and why every producing country swears theirs is the best.Noma scientist and author Ariel Johnson joins mid-show, jumping straight into flavor chemistry: why plum frozen yogurt tastes like strawberries, how to reverse-engineer hogo for non-alcoholic tiki drinks, sulfur compounds in durian, chlorophyll behavior in green herb oils, and more. Saffron custard gelato, carotenoids, pressure-cooking aromatics, British potatoes — nothing is safe.The crew also spirals into glorious tangents:• DIY Danish pork roast & the perfect crackling sandwich• Street food logic — what should be eaten on the move• The underrated beauty (and stink) of ginkgo trees• Why wrapping potatoes in foil ruins them• Delivery fries, baguette sandwiches, and sidewalk etiquette rage• VR garbage, museum exhibits, waiting for Godot w/ Keanu & Alex WinterPlus olive oil tasting in-studio, Patreon callers, and a preview of upcoming episodes — including Kevin from Noma returning soon. Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.

Dave is joined by chef, food truck lifer, yakitori operator, and SNIBBS co-founder Daniel Shemtob for a run through hearts, food trucks, and what actually keeps you upright on a greasy kitchen floor. They start with skewers and offal: chicken hearts vs duck and beef heart, a Korean beef-heart “Heart & Soul” taco, tortilla engineering, and why overstuffed tacos are a design flaw. From there it’s boiled peanuts, peanut butter nerdery, uncooked cranberry “relish” with horseradish, Thanksgiving recaps from LA, Milwaukee, and beyond, plus British Columbia saffron versus Iranian saffron and how Persian techniques layer saffron, rosewater, and pistachio. Quinn and Dave get into extraction temperatures for mushrooms and saffron, raising kids to eat more than grilled cheese, and where dishes like tofu stroganoff and meat-free mapo tofu do (and don’t) earn the original name. In the back half, Daniel breaks down what 15 years on The Lime Truck have really taught him: why most of the money is in catering, how to design menus that can scale up and down, and how easy it is to gross big numbers and still make almost nothing if you don’t control labor and food costs. He also walks through the origin of SNIBBS—his own career-changing slip-and-fall, working with an orthopedic surgeon, why chefs need firm soles and a small but real heel drop, and how he ended up building a chef-driven shoe brand backed by people like Nancy Silverton, Andrew Zimmern, and Michael Voltaggio. Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.

For this Thanksgiving “Classics in the Field” episode, Dave is back in studio at Rockefeller Center with Kitchen Arts & Letters’ own Matt Sartwell for a long, nerdy tour through cookbooks, regional food, and holiday obsessions. John’s on mic, Joe’s on the panels, and the show kicks off with cranberry-sauce loyalties, paper-bag chicken nostalgia, and why Dave will never forgive you if he walks into your house on Thanksgiving and it doesn’t smell like turkey.Matt announces Kitchen Arts & Letters’ new kids’ cookbook club—built around Peter Kim’s Instant Ramen Kitchen and led by Annette Tome and Pam Abrams—then dives into listener questions: the single gin book he’d take to a desert island; what to give a Spanish-cuisine nerd who actually wants context; how to hunt down Japanese parfait inspiration; and which books really capture Cape Cod and New England cooking.From there, it’s deep cuts: Provincetown seafood and Pops Masch’s Cooking the Catch, John Thorne’s Simple Cookingand his legendary toast essay, William Woys Weaver’s Christmas desserts and class-conscious holiday history, and the under-the-radar Aria regional cookbook series. Along the way Dave rants about lavender in gin, cold fried chicken with shredded cabbage, why you should cut the back out of your turkey, and why smaller birds (and a second turkey for sandwiches) are non-negotiable. Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.

Dave and the crew welcome chef and author Joshua McFadden to talk about his new book Six Seasons of Pasta: A New Way with Everyone’s Favorite Food. They get deep into dried vs fresh pasta, why salting your water to around 1% actually matters, the right way to use olive oil at the beginning and the end, and how a 50/50 Parm–pecorino mix behaves in the pan. Joshua explains the thinking behind his “six seasons,” why he’s obsessed with dried noodles, granular pesto, tuna mac, and nut ragù, and how no-boil lasagna sheets somehow made the cut. Along the way they veer into onion-tart sandbagging, salted cooking wine, U.S. butter politics, zucchini as “water bags,” pears vs apples in the Willamette Valley, cabbage glory, and Dave’s pressure-cooked Westphalian pumpernickel experiments. Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.

Dave Arnold, with Jean and Joe Hazen, runs a tight, New-York-only, “No Tangent” session—clearing the inbox and dropping hard technique. Dave details a successful Westphalian pumpernickel shortcut (from ~2+ days to a single shift) using controlled enzyme rest and pressure-cooking in wide-mouth pint jars. From there the crew debates the only correct patty-melt bread (rye), cheese choice (Swiss vs. American), and why English muffins punch above their weight. They hit chutney’s disappearance from American fridges, flatfish eye migration (confirmed), and the axolotl-as-food oddity. Listener questions cover freeze-dried fruit ice cream, pairing cocktails on prix fixe menus, induction with 5-ply pans, espresso-tonic nucleation, lactic-acid math for brewers, hot cocktail service, yuzu preservation, brand-specificity in recipes, flour tweaks for pizza, and carbonated dairy constraints. Quick shoutouts land on Manhattan Special, myrrh and schisandra infusions, and next week’s guest, Joshua McFadden. Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.

Dave is joined in studio by chef Alex Kemp, a Quebec-born, Philly-based chef and co-owner of multiple neighborhood restaurants, for a wide-ranging hang about food, restaurants, and questionable late-night decisions. Alex talks about growing up between French and English Canada, separatist grandparents, and how he and his wife juggle two restaurants, a third on the way, and a nine-and-a-half-month-old.The crew ranks fried foods (why french fries and perfect fried chicken rule, and why tempura and hand-pulled noodles might be overrated), gets specific about schnitzel, fish and chips, fried okra, shrimp, and ketchup loyalty, and admits that Heinz is untouchable. They detour into hot dogs, pears as the heartbreak fruit, heritage apples, apple butter, and Pennsylvania Dutch cooking.A caller from Dublin asks about lobster bisque: how long to cook shells, why over-extraction goes chalky, fortifying stocks in short passes, using gelatin, and whether enzymes like chitinase are worth the trouble. Dublin also brings “spice bags” and proper Guinness into the conversation. Jack checks in with a North Korean restaurant story and the table debates whale, monkey, and one-and-done Guinness's.Dave and Alex close on old-school French technique, why real seasonal menus are a logistical nightmare, and the pleasure and pain of running truly market-driven neighborhood restaurants. Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.

This week on Cooking Issues, Dave Arnold welcomes cocktail historian and author David Wondrich to celebrate his new release, The Comic Book History of the Cocktail. From 19th-century juleps to modern mixology, Wondrich and Arnold trace how drinking culture evolved — and occasionally went off the rails. They revisit the lost luxury of real peach brandy, debate the right way to build a punch, and trade barroom war stories about the revival of the craft-cocktail movement. Along the way, the crew talks Jim Croce lyrics, over-engineered drinks, and what happens when architects and bartenders both depend on Amazon. Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.

Dave is joined in studio by chef, author, and TV host Diane Kochilas (My Greek Table on PBS) to talk about her new book, “Food Stories, Love, Athens: A Cookbook,” and to dismantle a bunch of lazy assumptions about Greek cooking.They get into the real Athens food scene right now: young chefs, post-crisis reinvention, and why the city doesn’t cook like some stuck-in-time postcard. Diane explains how Athens food culture evolved from 1970s “bourgeois cuisine” and French-influenced bechamel to the current wave of creative, ingredient-driven cooking — and why some of the old-school dishes still absolutely slap.  Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.

Dave, Jack, Nastassia, Quinn, Joe, and a caller turn “no-tangent Monday” into a focused run of kitchen opinions and practical technique. Jack recaps China trip eats and questions the culinary payoff of hot pot vs. the social vibe. The crew debates DIY dining (fondue, hot pot), ordering strategy, and server trust, with classic Luger/Rao’s anecdotes. Quinn’s Canadian Thanksgiving menu features turkey mole and sparks a deep dive on flour-tortilla mechanics (Sonoran/White vs. soft wheat; protein, hydration, chew).A listener calls in with a home-martini problem: freezer gin, dilution on ice vs. stirred, chilling limits, and a batching tip (stir to proper dilution, bottle with air excluded, quick-freeze before service). Lab corner hits common pain points: rotovap foam control (vacuum “kill” venting, boil-over sensors, frit/Scotch-Brite in the vapor path, bump traps), water-core apples (why it happens, flavor/storage tradeoffs), stabilizing lacto hot sauces (xanthan ≈0.25%), and walnut-butter astringency from skins (use dairy applications to blunt tannins; next time, skin the nuts). Practical notes include how to pack Scotch bonnets for travel (dry, ventilated, non-refrigerated short-term is fine), freeze-dried berries in ice cream (account for sugar/solids), and a quick cameo of Dave’s Jäger spritz spec. Carbonated-dairy troubleshooting is queued for next week. Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.

On this episode of Cooking Issues, Dave Arnold welcomes culinary historian and award-winning author Michael Twitty to discuss his new book The American South. Twitty shares stories of growing up with Southern food traditions, his deep research into the region’s culinary roots, and how gardening, foraging, and heritage recipes shaped his perspective on what “Southern food” really means.The conversation ranges from okra soup, red rice, and long-simmered green beans to the history of sweet tea, sassafras, poke salad, and rice bread. Twitty explains how dishes evolved across communities—African American, Indigenous, European, and immigrant—and why understanding migrations is key to understanding Southern cuisine. He also reflects on the challenges of translating historical recipes for modern cooks, the impact of changing agriculture on flavor, and the importance of reclaiming overlooked foodways.Along the way, the crew trades stories about Taiwan’s cocktail bars, bison steaks, and Maryland fried chicken, while diving into listener questions on how to approach historic cookbooks and balance authenticity with adaptation. Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.

This week on Cooking Issues, Dave Arnold and the crew welcome special guest KC Boyle of Dock to Dish, a pioneering community-supported fishery connecting local fishermen directly with restaurants. KC breaks down how their model short-circuits the traditional supply chain, gives boats better pay, and brings overlooked species like sea robin, welks, and local red shrimp to chefs’ menus.Alongside the seafood talk, Dave recounts his oily laundry disaster, debates eggplant varietals with John, and Jack shares food adventures from Taiwan, Hong Kong, and China — including stinky tofu, abalone, and Michelin dining in Chengdu. The conversation veers into fruit obsessions, etiquette in fine dining comps, and why Americans need to expand their fish vocabulary.From abalone and blowfish to razor clams and blackfish, this episode dives deep into the hidden bounty of local waters and what it takes to get them onto plates.Cooking Issues — where chefs, fish, and the occasional lifetime-guaranteed backpack all meet at the table. Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.

Chef Jeremy Fox joins Dave, John, Quinn, and Jackie Molecules for a rollicking Cooking Issues session that jumps from kitchen hacks to personal reflections. Fox, in New York fresh off the release of his new book On Meat, talks through the craft behind charcuterie, confit, scrapple, corned beef, merguez, and even buffalo deviled eggs.Dave kicks things off with a story of wiping out on an oily UN-Week bike lane, before diving into Fox’s world: the terrine he made for his own wedding, the art of hoshigaki persimmons, why corned beef sometimes wins out over pastrami, and the surprising virtues of scrapple. Fox explains why he avoids crosshatching duck breast, how to keep confit submerged, and what it takes to crisp potato skins properly.The conversation widens to food culture and kitchen life: Chengdu rabbit heads, the misery of warm lager, Belgian frites technique, kitchen safety horror stories, and the bittersweet reality of closing Birdie G’s. Along the way we get clever hacks (butter-knife weights for sous-vide rolls, parsley-green fat in terrine), a defense of warm scrapple with maple syrup, and Fox’s thoughts on larder staples that make weeknight cooking easier. Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.

Dave’s back and right into the weeds: rebuilding the legendary Flaming Jägerdemo, why modern rotovapcontrollers finally saved bartenders’ wrists, and how to keep a Japanese-style whisky highball lively with a little poly-dextrose science. Along the way we detour through lifelong zucchini trauma(and the rare preparations that redeem it), eggplant lore, and the eternal martini question—stirred, shaken, or thrown.Plus, Nastassia’s LA dinner parties just got tapped as Esquire’s Best—and yes, there was a fruit omakase. Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.