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In a country like France, where tradition reigns supreme, even a suggestion of change or newness has long been met with scepticism by locals. This is no longer the case, offers writer and adopted Parisian Lindsey Tramuta in The New Paris podcast, a side dish to her bestselling books “The New Paris” and “The New Parisienne”. Here, with an assortment of other local experts, she takes a closer look at the people, places and ideas that are changing the fabric of the storied French capital.
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How does technology play into the paradigm shift the world is experiencing? I'm joined by digital anthropologist, author, and public speaker Rahaf Harfoush to talk about resilience and how global interconnection means we cannot speak about the future of France without considering the impact of decisions made much further afield, by other nations. We discuss geopolitical shifts and innovation in France amid global disruptions, and how cultural values must shape our response to crises and technological evolution. What does the future of France look like? Listen to find out. Mentioned in this episode: Rahaf Harfoush@Foushy Hypernormalization Emmanuel Grégoire + Station F The French Tech Journal European Unicorn ReportBlack Swan by Nassim Nicholas TalebOn Bullshit Jobs by David Graeber AI 2027 ReportPalantir deal with France Participatory local politics in ParisAudio production & editing: Matthew JordanMusic by Little Glass Men
There is some relief to be shared right now for many Parisians— voters sent Rachida Dati walking and opted for Emmanuel Grégoire, formerly Anne Hidalgo’s first deputy, as the French capital's new mayor. The Socialist party has governed Paris for 25 years and the majority has spoken. But that isn’t the full picture. To give you a sense of what his win means, how many people really turned up to vote, where the finger pointing is being aimed now by major political parties, and what Grégoire plans to do for Paris, I asked political journalist and author Léa Chamboncel. Here's what to know. Mentioned in this episode:Léa Chamboncel Popol Media Emmanuel Grégoire wins Paris mayoral raceFrench elections are still a warning to the left Edouard Philippe’s beard Adrien Quatennens, LFI, domestic violence caseLéa’s new book: à qui profite la lutte? Audio production & editing: Matthew JordanMusic by Little Glass Men
We are nearing the end of an era. Anne Hidalgo, Paris mayor since 2014, will soon be leaving office. And this weekend, we vote on her replacement. In fact, there are elections all over the country. But in Paris, there are changes to how that’s going to go down this year and who is likely to take over. I’m joined by Phineas Rueckert, a Paris-based journalist who covers politics and social issues for The Nation, Jacobin and New Lines Magazine, to unpack what’s at stake, who’s running, why this election is so important, and what legacy Anne Hidalgo leaves behind.Mentioned in this episode:Phineas RueckertPhineas's substack Becoming FrenchLe Monde on Hidalgo's legacyFrance's elections at risk of foreign interferenceFrance's local elections, 2026Elections as a preview for Europe Quentin Deranque, political flashpointLyon as French capital of political violenceSarah Knafo copies MamdaniPhineas's report for The Nation on Sarah Knafo Audio production & editing: Matthew JordanMusic by Little Glass Men
Almost two years ago, I met today’s guest on an art deco journalist jaunt around Greater Paris and have followed her work ever since. Maïa Morgensztern is a French art historian and culture journalist living in London but returns to Paris monthly, usually for an exhibition. Given how much has changed in the art world in the last year, I wanted to get her take on Paris vs London, the historical contexts of both cities in their approaches to culture, and the impact of Brexit on the art world. We talk about government and private funding in the arts, access to cultural institutions, and the class divides that influence who engages with art. You’ll also hear where she likes to go, every time she’s in town. Mentioned in this episode: Maïa MorgenszternMaïa on InstagramLouvre strikes Sackler family museum fundingFondation Cartier Museum upgrades in ParisCarnavalet Museum (free entry)London's free museumsFondation Giacometti Comédie FrançaiseThe Good LifeAudio production & editing: Matthew JordanMusic by Little Glass Men
Nearly 12 years I ago, I became a French citizen. Since then, a lot has changed. Most notably, the criteria for nationality have tightened this year. Given how many more Americans, in particular, are looking to move to France, I thought it was time to dig into the process, how it’s gotten harder and why — at least for everyone except George Clooney— and to do so, I brought on a friend of the show, France 24 journalist, and new French citizen, Charli James. Mentioned in this episode:Charli James Stricter French requirements, fewer resources: Immigrants face new hurdlesFrance defends decision to grant George Clooney citizenshipLes procédures d'accès à la nationalité française Immigration : polémique sur des tests de français A new civic examination for foreigners wishing to settle in FranceHow France’s far right changed the debate on immigrationIn Brussels, the far right can no longer be ignoredAudio production & editing: Matthew JordanMusic by Little Glass Men
Whether you have children or not, chances are you’ve heard that France’s childcare system is among the best in Europe, both in terms of public and private options. There’s the crèche, subsidized daycare, shared nannies, au pairs, and full-time Nannies who make, or should anyway, a living commensurate with their experience and hours worked. Since more and more foreigners are moving to Paris with children or with the intention of having children, it’s important to understand the landscape. I happen to know someone who works in this world and wanted to get her story, her views on child rearing in Paris specifically, the options that exist, the dark side of the business, and how it all compares with the UK and Germany, where she has both lived and worked. Meet Lise Scott. Mentioned in this episode: Lise ScottNorland nannies French nursery (crèche) shortageParis childcare optionsOptions and unequal accessAudio production & editing: Matthew JordanMusic by Little Glass Men
To kick off season 10 a few days into a year that’s already turbulent, I thought I’d keep things lighter and more casual with a friend of the show. I crossed town the day after Paris was submerged in snow to chat with Jay Swanson, YouTuber and creator of Paris in My Pocket, about coffee in the city, the cost of things, pearl-clutching newspaper stories, and what we hope for Paris in 2026. Mentioned in this episode:Jay Swanson Paris in my PocketGalette des RoisSubstance Café The Guardian articleAudio production & editing: Matthew JordanMusic by Little Glass Men
In continuing the conversation around the city’s culinary scene, the episode you’ll hear today comes directly from a panel discussion I was part of at The American Library in Paris with two very powerful voices in food that I’m proud to know. I was joined by Carina Soto Velasquez, the co-founder and owner of Quixotic Projects (Candelaria, Le Mary Celeste, and A La Renaissance), and Nora Bouazzouni, a French journalist and author who reports on ethical issues in the industry. We go through the changes in the food scene, some of the ongoing challenges for women, and how violence endures in the kitchen across the country. Thank you to the American Library for allowing me to use the audio and to Rachel Donadio for her thoughtful moderation. Mentioned in this episode: The American Library in Paris talk Want to watch the conversation? It’s on YouTubeThe Eater Guide to ParisCarina Soto Velasquez Nora Bouazzouni "Violences en Cuisine: Une Omerta à la Française"Audio production & editing: Matthew JordanMusic by Little Glass Men
What does it take to run a successful restaurant or several in a city full of them? Josh Fontaine, cofounder of Candelaria, Le Mary Celeste, and the newly opened A La Renaissance, knows something about it. He joins me to talk about what’s changed in the Paris food and beverage scene since COVID, the proliferation of concept-driven restaurants, creating longevity, and some of the details he’s most proud of at his new restaurant.Mentioned in this episode:Joshua Fontaine, Quixotic ProjectsCandelariaLe Mary CelesteA la RenaissanceLutèceMatcha pop-ups Bemelman's Bar Audio production & editing: Matthew JordanMusic by Little Glass Men
Almost a year ago, I launched a series on my newsletter called Leaving America, based on the multitude of reasons Americans opt to leave the country and why many of them, as it happens, end up in Paris. Through this series and my network of creative women in Paris, I’ve connected with so many brilliant Americans who have moved, want to move, or at least understand the desire to. That includes Susanna Schrobsdorff, a former executive editor and columnist for Time Magazine who moved to Paris within the last couple of years. Right off the bat, we started talking together about the feelings tied up in leaving one’s homeland and Paris has done for us, as it has for so many before us. She joins me today to talk about her path to Paris, why it was the right place to settle at this point in her life, and the importance of building community to withstand the toughest of times. Mentioned in this episode: Susanna schrobsdorffOn leaving Brooklyn for ParisSuzy Hansen's Notes on a Foreign CountryThe Blue Hour workshop with Glynnis MacNicol
Paris = luxury fashion, right? Louis Vuitton, Hermès, and Chanel are pillars of France’s soft power and legacy of craftsmanship. And they are among the most counterfeited brands in the world. That's part of what I learned reporting on secondhand luxury and authentication issues for Bloomberg Businessweek. I got to go behind the curtain at Vestiaire Collective, the leading French secondhand platform, to understand the surge in superfakes, how brands are responding to them, and how platforms like Vestiaire have become frontline defenders in this battle for authenticity. Today, I'm joined by Vestiaire's co-founder Fanny Moizant to talk about values, authentication, access, and how our relationship to French savoir-faire is evolving. Most of all, we'll discuss why secondhand no longer carries a stigma. Mentioned in this story: My Bloomberg Businessweek reportVestiaire Collective Fanny Moizant
Today's guest, André Michel, is a Paris insider; the unofficial Mayor of Paris with a deep and varied knowledge of food and culture, and a talent for weaving it all into compelling storytelling and events. The occasional food and travel writer and event organizer joins me to talk about what it means to know Paris, why there’s never been a better or more dynamic time to visit or live in Paris, and what travelers should check out this summer.Mentioned in this episode: André MichelThe Butcher of ParisBruno Verjus / Table Capital in the 21st Century by Thomas PikettyJacques GeninJade GeninCheval d'Or Othership NYLa Vasque Olympique Audio production & editing: Matthew JordanMusic by Little Glass Men
Diehard fans of Paris already know there’s never been a shortage of activities to fill one’s intellectual and cultural cup. Art openings, talks and conferences, concerts and performances happen every day of the week. But if you’re interested in learning in a classroom setting without going back to school in the traditional sense, the options dry up. That’s where Off Campus steps in. It’s a two-month-old coffee shop and bookstore launched by two friends that has a special room dedicated to classes for adults. I’m joined by the co-founder Siham Jibril to talk about what sparked the idea, why there’s more interest in continuing education, and which themes resonate most with Parisians. Mentioned in this episode:Off CampusOff Campus on Instagram Bonjour JacobShakespeare & Co Galignani MK2 Bibliothèque Audio production & editing: Matthew JordanMusic by Little Glass Men
My new book is officially on shelves! To celebrate, The Red Wheelbarrow bookstore hosted me for a launch event last week. At the start, I was in conversation about the project (and more) with the legendary New York Times bestselling and James Beard Award–winning cookbook author Dorie Greenspan. This episode is an edited version of that discussion. Mentioned in this episode: The Eater Guide to ParisDorie Greenspan Julien Pham / Phamily First Kubri / Rita HigginsAudio production & editing: Matthew JordanMusic by Little Glass Men
In the canon of Paris narratives, few focus on oddball finds and secrets lurking right beneath our noses. But Vanessa Grall, more commonly known and Messy Nessy, has made it her calling card. For more than a decade she has sussed out offbeat tales and fascinating individuals who have shaped our world and published several guidebooks to help travelers get beyond the obvious. More than a year ago, she opened a storefront, Messy Nessy’s Cabinet, a shop full of curiosities she joins me to talk about today. Mentioned in this episode:Messy Nessy Chic Messy Nessy's CabinetBottled Seine water Suzanne ValadonDon't Be a Tourist guidesMessy Nessy Instagram Audio production & editing: Matthew JordanMusic by Little Glass Men
So far, the year in Paris has been bright — at least in a cultural sense. The Louvre Museum is leading the charge with its very first full-fledged fashion exhibition in its 232-year history. To talk about why it’s significant, what visitors can expect, and the cultural context surrounding the pieces on display is Amy Verner, a fashion journalist and longtime Paris resident who has likely spent more time pondering the works inside the Louvre than all of my listeners combined. Mentioned in this episode:Amy VernerLouvre CoutureOlivier GabetLouvre renovation plan Elaine Sciolino's new book "Adventures in the Louvre"
Like many people living in France, I took a break from alcohol during the imported milestone of Dry January. But we’re in February, and two wine fairs have brought wine lovers and wine pros to the city for talks, tastings, and buying. Wine consumption has been dropping steadily in France, and sales have declined since the 1970s. So what’s happening here? How are people drinking? Are they drinking? What’s the status of natural wine today? Where should people go to drink well in Paris if they’re going to do so? I'm joined by Alicia Dorey, a wine journalist who writes regularly for Le Figaro, to talk about the ins and outs of wine consumption.Mentioned in this episode: Alicia DoreyAlicia's book A Nos Ivresses Austrian wine pop-up in ParisLes Caves LegrandVivant and DéviantAugustin Marchand d'Vins Audio production & editing: Matthew JordanMusic by Little Glass Men
A quick one from me to kickoff season 9 and share some fun news: I have a new book coming out this spring!The Eater Guide to Paris hits shelves on April 29 in the U.S. /Australia/Europe and on May 8 in the U.K., wherever books are sold. A few links below to pre-order now:Abrams (publisher)Bookshop.orgBarnes & NobleAmazon (U.S.)Shakespeare & CoWaterstonesIndigo BooksBooktopia (Australia)Audio production & editing: Matthew JordanMusic by Little Glass Men
This month is my 18th December living in Paris, and as I reflect on that time, I’m struck by how much the city still enchants and surprises me. It might be a buzzy neighborhood, a refurbished historical marvel like Notre Dame, a dining experience, or something more unexpected. Someone in the business of sussing out and building such experiences, including some I have attended, is today’s guest Catherine Down. She’s a food writer and travel and event consultant who joins to talk about the most surprising spaces and experiences in Paris, what she finds so meaningful about the city after 12 years as a resident and what she recommends if you’re coming to town this month.
Mentioned in this episode:
Catherine Down
Catherine's newsletter
Catherine on Instagram
Modern Love NYT essay
Caractère de Cochon
Le Marché Saint Germain
Ice Skating at the Grand Palais
Café Mirabelle
Le Doyenné
Repaire de Cartouche
Le Baron Rouge
Le Bon Marché
Audio production & editing: Matthew Jordan
Music by Little Glass Men
In times of turmoil, we naturally seek sources of calm. And in Paris, perhaps nothing that recenters Parisians more than the Seine. The city’s most iconic waterway has shaped its mythology long before there were tourist boats and selfie-taking travelers. Today, the significance of the Seine is front and center again, thanks to the Olympics and a billion-euro cleanup project. To talk about this, I’m joined by my friend and fellow journalist Mary Winston Nicklin, who reported National Geographic’s cover story on the Seine earlier this year.
Mentioned in this episode:
Mary Winston Nicklin
National Geographic Cover Story (Online edition)
The ancient goddess of the Seine River: Sequana
The Man Who Swam the Seine (GQ)
Audio production & editing: Matthew Jordan
Music by Little Glass Men
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