Claim OwnershipTailoring in Conversation by HNBT
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In these series I will be talking to tailors, textile merchants and other industry participants from all around the globe to gain a better insight into their world.
46 Episodes
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My guest for today is Paul Kruize.
Paul Kruize is a bespoke jean maker from Enschede in the Netherlands. One man, one machine, making one pair of jeans at a time.
During our conversation we will talk about Paul’s journey, the garment industry in the Netherlands, jeans making, the search for perfection, and more.
I hope that our conversation will be as insightful for you as it has been for me!
My guest for today is Chris Modoo.
Chris is a menswear stylist based in London and has been working for companies such as Thomas Pink, Ede & Ravenscroft and Chester Barrie to name a few.
During our conversation we will talk about Chris’ journey, the relevancy of heritage brands, style and its purpose, the importance of local tailors, and more.
I hope that our conversation will be as insightful for you as it has been for me!
My guest for today is John Davis.
John is a bespoke tailor currently based in South London. Along with his daughter Roxanne, he exclusively works for the tailoring houses on Savile Row. As the former owner of Tobias Tailors at No. 32, John has spent a good 50 years on Savile and is here today to share his story.
During our conversation we will talk about John’s tailoring journey, his time at Kilgour, what makes Savile Row special, teaching and apprenticeships, and more.
I hope that our conversation will be as insightful for you as it has been for me!
My guest for today is Jon Moore.
Jon is a British Couturier specialising in women’s wear. He began his career as a Fashion Design student at Kingston University in the mid 70’s and worked his way up to becoming the Design Director at Hardy Amies. He now has his own private clients and students.
During our conversation we will talk about Jon’s journey, his time at Hardy Amies, the differences between couture and men’s tailoring, the influences of clients on the creative process, and more.
I hope that our conversation will be as insightful for you as it has been for me!
My guest for today is Holly Robins.
Holly is the founder and head tailor of the Holly Robins Bespoke Studio: a Savile Row trained collective atelier of trouser and waistcoat makers.
During our conversation we will talk about Holly’s tailoring journey, the process of setting up a tailoring atelier, training staff, work culture and more.
I hope that our conversation will be as insightful for you as it has been for me!
My guest for today is James MacAuslan.
James is a bespoke shirt cutter at Budd Shirtmakers based in London’s Piccadilly Arcade.
During our conversation we will talk about James’ journey in becoming a shirt cutter, crafts within the context of business, the differences between shirt and coat making, types of knifes used is shirt cutting and more.
I hope that our conversation will be as insightful for you as it has been for me!
My guest for today is Szabolcs Tóháti.
Szabolcs is a lawyer and shirtmaker in Debrecen, Hungary. He is accompanied by his brother Istvan, who will be our translator.
During our conversation we will talk about tailoring in Hungary, shirt making, Szabolcs’ experience working as a lawyer and tailor and more.
I hope that our conversation will be as insightful for you as it has been for me!
My guest for today is Thomas von Nordheim.
Thomas is a master tailor, couturier and costume maker based in Kent, England. Some of you may know him from his Couture Masterclasses on Teachable or his work for the film “Phantom Thread’ featuring Daniel Day-Lewis.
During our conversation we will talk about Thomas’ background and journey, haute couture, costume making for movies, tailoring education, and more.
I hope that our conversation will be as insightful for you as it has been for me!
My guest for today is Simon Martelo.
Simon is the director, founder and bespoke cutter at Martelo Bespoke based in Bogota, Colombia.
During our conversation we will talk about Simon’s tailoring journey, the bespoke tailoring culture in Colombia, Rocosa: influence from Spanish tailoring, stigma towards tailoring, how to extract clients' personality and translate that into a garment, and more.
I hope that our conversation will be as insightful for you as it has been for me!
My guest for today is Antonia Ede.
Antonia is a bespoke cutter and founder of Montague Ede, a modern bespoke tailoring atelier with a traditional background based in London’s Mayfair. Originally trained on Savile Row, Antonia began her apprenticeship at Hardy Amies, before she further developed her skills at Huntsman.
During our conversation we will talk about Antonia’s teaching experience at Wandsworth Prison, tailoring apprenticeships, the relationship between employees and employers, the challenges for female cutters, and more.
I hope that our conversation will be as insightful for you as it has been for me!
My guest for today is Frank Shattuck.
Frank is a bespoke tailor based in New York, US. With a deep passion for tradition and the old world methods of tailoring, Frank continues his craft by following in the footsteps of his masters. He cuts, fits and makes everything by himself.
During our conversation we will talk about Frank’s background, the essence of apprenticeships, a well-balanced jacket, woodcarving, and more.
I hope that our conversation will be as insightful for you as it has been for me!
My guest for today is Jeffery Diduch.
Most of us know Jeffery from his blog “Tutto Fatto A Mano", in which he shared his research by dissecting both bespoke and factory-made garments but also documenting his own personal projects. He is now the Senior Vice President of Design at Hickey Freeman/Samuelsohn.
During our conversation we will talk about Jeffery’s background, the differences between bespoke and mass production, upcoming clothing technologies, tailoring as a form of engineering, the skill of technical thinking and more.
I hope that our conversation will be as insightful for you as it has been for me!
My guest for today is Rameez Baggia.
Rameez is a bespoke tailor and co-founder of Baggia & Ton, which is a progressive bespoke tailoring and made-to-measure atelier in Melbourne, Australia.
During our conversation we will talk about Rameez’s tailoring journey, bespoke tailoring in Australia, the conundrum of heritage, misuse of the word ‘bespoke’, innovation in bespoke tailoring, and more.
I hope that our conversation will be as insightful for you as it has been for me!
My guest for today is Jo Baker Waters.
Jo is a bespoke tailor and fashion designer currently base in Los Angeles, US. Originally trained at Gieves and Hawkes, Jo has worked for companies like Calvin Klein, Marc Jacobs, Anna Sui, to name a few. She is also the author of the book “Pattern Cutting Techniques for Ladies’ Tailored Jackets”, which is available on the Crowood Press, Barnes & Noble and Amazon.
During our conversation we will talk about Jo’s fashion design & art journey leading to bespoke tailoring, art in traditional tailoring, the sleepless nights every artist has experienced, the process of writing a book, and more.
I hope that our conversation will be as insightful for you as it has been for me!
My guest for today is Lee Marsh.
Lee is a bespoke cutter, tailor and designer based in London. He combines the best of these worlds to create pieces that inspire by pushing the boundaries of traditional tailoring.
During our conversation we will talk about Lee’s creative journey leading to bespoke tailoring, the right apprentice mindset, the romance of making garments, virtual vs in-person courses, and more.
I hope that our conversation will be as insightful for you as it has been for me!
My guest for today is Hossein Tohja.
He is accompanied by Mina Mowlaie who is the translator.
Hossein is a pattern cutter for Raad Fashion House in Tehran, Iran.
During our conversation we will talk about his journey of becoming a pattern cutter, bespoke tailoring in Iran, setting up a company in a country like Iran, the effects of sanctions on tailors, and more.
I hope that our conversation will be as insightful for you as it has been for me!
My guest for today is Jitesh Merchant.
Jitesh, also known as Lalu, is based in Mumbai, India. He is a third generation tailor and the owner of A Sequeira Bespoke Academy.
During our conversation we will talk about the struggles of learning from different masters, how you can recognise a good master and student, craftsmanship and bespoke tailoring in India, and more.
I hope that our conversation will be as insightful for you as it has been for me!
My guest for today is Vitalii Chigvintsev.
Vitalii owns a tailoring company called Sarto Russi in Moscow.
During our conversation we will talk about Vitalii’s background, the Russian tailoring scene, made-to-measure, and more.
I hope that our conversation will be as insightful for you as it has been for me!
My guest for today is Steven Hitchcock.
Steven is a bespoke tailor and cutter based in London and has been so for the past 32 years. Some of you may know his father John Hitchcock from Anderson and Sheppard.
During our conversation we will talk about Steven’s background, the drape cut, rock of eye method, Savile Row, and more.
I hope that our conversation will be as insightful for you as it has been for me!
My guest for today is Marloes Dadswell.
Marloes is professional corsetière and embroiderer based in Delft, Netherlands. In her work she brings natural history and art together with an exceptional amount of craftsmanship and detail.
During our conversation we will talk about her journey into the world of bespoke corsetry and embroidery, teaching qualities, the conflict between artisans and rush jobs, and more.
I hope that our conversation will be as insightful for you as it has been for me!
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