California Wine Country

Dan, Daedalus and Casey Graybehl. Casey Graybehl from Grenachista Wines joins Dan Berger and Daedalus Howell on California Wine Country today. This is Casey’s first time on the show, although we mentioned Grenache as recently as last September on this episode with Oded Shakked of Longboard Vineyards. Grenachista Wines specializes in Grenache, and makes several types and styles of this one varietal. Before getting to Casey Graybehl’s Grenache wines, Dan Berger has brought another cellar dweller this week. It is a 2004 Rkatsiteli from Dr. Konstantin Frank, in the Finger Lakes region of upstate New York. It is a French grape that has been grown in Eastern Europe for decades. Asked why he chose Grenache, Casey explains that he needs guardrails, to constrain himself. By focussing on his favorites, he can run a small operation and produce a high quality product. Dan explains that Grenache is also an important blending wine. The same is true of Syrah. You need some Grenache to make a Rioja from Tempranillo grapes. There is also the GSM blend, Grenache, Syrah and Mourvedre. Instead of making wines for other people’s tastes, he makes wine for his own palette. The Holy Trinity of Grenache Casey describes the holy trinity of Grenache as Grenache Gris, Grenache Noir and Grenache Blanc. They taste a Grenache Gris and then a Grenache Rosé. Dan and Casey agree that their favorite varietal for Rosé is Grenache. “It’s a fruit salad in a glass,” says Daedalus. Dan says the tropical notes are fermentation flavors called terpenes that will be gone in six more months. “This is not one to age,” says Dan. CWC is brought to you by Deodora Estate Vineyards. Visit Deodora to discover 72 acres in the Petaluma Gap that are producing exceptional Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Riesling. Sip the difference!  If you’re going to limit yourself to one grape, Grenache is the one to do, says Casey, because of its versatility. Next they open the North Coast Grenache Noir. The grapes come from Sonoma Valley, Napa Carneros and Mendocino, which qualifies it for the North Coast AVA. Dan notices pomegranate and cranberry flavors. Casey says some nice licorice and leather flavors will come on with aging. Dan finds that Grenache is more sensitive to its soil and vintage than many other red wine grapes. Pinot Noir can be a headache but Grenache can be more consistent. They call it a blender but it is really a base, making up 60% of blends, such as Gigondas.

Barry Herbst is here to talk about sparkling wines for the holidays on California Wine Country with Dan Berger and Daedalus Howell. Barry has been on CWC many times before. For the comparison, here is a show where he brought sparkling wines, recorded on Dec. 29, 2023. He is the wine buyer at Bottle Barn. First, Dan recaps part one, which is here on its own podcast episode page, a detailed talk about Gamay Beaujolais. Then, right here, Dan and Barry conduct a tasting and discussion of four very fine sparkling wines that Barry has brought, all of which are at Bottle Barn. Late December is one of the peaks of wine purchasing season. The first peak usually comes at Harvest Fair, that and the Press Democrat Competition before that, “gets things going.” From the end of September it starts, then pops again for the holidays. Also people stock up for June events. CWC is brought to you by Deodora Estate Vineyards. Visit Deodora to discover 72 acres in the Petaluma Gap that are producing exceptional Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Riesling. Sip the difference!  Bottle Barn also does flash sales and rare wine sales on their website. Online sales account for about a third of their business now. They didn’t even have a website until 2019 but now their website is first class. Dan says it’s maybe the best wine sales site in the country. It was good that they did it just before Covid. The bottle barn site is well built and works great. Barry remembers six weeks when four people did nothing but data entry, to get the site started. They had 6000 SKUs. Cremant d’Alsace Rosé Sparkling wines are the order of the day. So they pop a cork and taste Bottle Barn’s best-selling sparkling wine of all time. Cremant d’Alsace made 100% with Pinot Noir, so it’s Rosé. Bottle Barn sells 600 cases per year of it. It sells for $17.99. Dan says it tastes drier than it did before. You can really taste the Rosé character and the aftertaste is “clean as a whistle,” says Dan. Cremant means sparkling in French. Sparkling wines can only be called “Champagne” if they come from the province of that name. So there are Cremant wines named for their region, such as Cremant d’Alsace. That naming rule pertains to sparkling wines from Italy, which are called Vini Spumanti or Prosecco, depending on the region and the varietals. Cava are Spanish sparklers. The new British sparkling wines might earn a new name. Seppi The next tasting is Seppi, a California product. Mostly Pinot Noir, beautiful balance, says Dan. Intense pink wine flavors with more acidity than he expected, and rounded and more full bodied. Dan also mentions a grower champagne and Barry actually has one to taste,  Lalarge Peugeot. They grow everything biodynamically. Barry notes that they have kept their prices reasonable compared to their neighbors there, in the heart of Champagne. There is more Pinot Meunier planted in Champagne than Pinot Noir or Champagne grapes. Pinot Meunier is a red wine grape but lighter than Pinot Noir.

Melissa Galliani and Dan Berger. Dan Berger takes some time to explain Gamay Beaujolais today on California Wine Country with Dan Berger and Daedalus Howell. Later in the show, Barry Herbst from Bottle Barn will be in, to talk about sparkling wines they have in the store for the holidays. That portion of the show has its own podcast episode, right here. Dan has brought a Beaujolais from 2023 from a California winemaker who moved to France. He got tired of trying to make European style wines in California. Johnathan Pey made Pinot Noir in Marin County and made a Cabernet in Napa called Textbook. He decided to make a break from California and move to France. This wine is his French production, Domaine Johnathan Pey. Beaujolais ain’t no “Boo-jo-lay” Johnathan Pey bought two cru vineyards in Beaujolais. Gamay Noir au jus blanc is the full French name of the grape. Beaujolais is generally an unpretentions wine, easy to drink and not expensive. Pey wanted to apply modern winemaking techniques to grapes from the old plantation. He bought the vineyard about five or six years ago and has been tending the vines personally. Dan says this vintage is starting to show depth and intensity above the average for Beaujolais. 13% alcohol. The color is intense and suggests a highter ABV but that’s not Beaujolais. CWC is brought to you by Deodora Estate Vineyards. Visit Deodora to discover 72 acres in the Petaluma Gap that are producing exceptional Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Riesling. Sip the difference!  Usually, Beaujolais is just to open and drink. But some of the Cru Beaujolais will benefit from a couple of years in the bottle. John found that the other producers in France were young, and he is teaching them California techniques that are ahead of the game. This wine is full of fruit, but also an intensity, a Syrah-like aftertaste. Dan thinks maybe this wine will age in two days once opened. “Way more interesting than a typical Beaujolais.” It doesn’t have any oak, there was no barrel aging.

Garry Brooks from Brooks Note Winery in the Petaluma Gap is back on California Wine Country with Dan Berger and Daedalus Howell. He has been on the show before, the last time was this episode in February of this year. They begin by tasting the 2023 Chardonnay. It started five weeks late and they didn’t think anything was going to ripen. These grapes are usually picked mid to late September but this time, it was mid October. “This is a brilliant wine, it has so much personality. It’s crisp and delightful with food, light and only 13% alcohol,” says Dan. There is a chicken truck that parks near the winery that cooks chicken with this wine and herbs. “This is a Chardonnay that doesn’t have that big rich buttery soft center.” It’s a wine made for food. It comes from 3 different vineyards, one in Sebastopol Hills, one in the Santa Rosa plain and one in Petaluma Gap. Dan says it is round and crisp. There is only one eighth done in oak barrels. That small amount is just a kiss of spice and sweetness. Garry says Chardonnay is risky when it goes through a crazy transformation when being made. If you try to bottle it too soon, it’s bland, says Dan. Bung and Roll If you stir Chardonnay you can gain and lose different flavors. There is no stirring involved here, they are just waiting. Dan says this was Jim Clendenon’s technique that he called “bung and roll.” He would fill the barrels with Chardonnay, seal it with a bung, roll the barrel away and never touch it. CWC is brought to you by Deodora Estate Vineyards. Visit Deodora to discover 72 acres in the Petaluma Gap that are producing exceptional Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Riesling. Sip the difference!  Next he has brought a couple of their single vineyard wines. There is one vineyard in southern Petaluma Gap, in Marin County, near Marin French Cheese. It’s cold and windy there. You can’t do barbeque in Petaluma Gap because the wind blows hard at 4:00 every day. As the wind speed goes up it slows down photosynthesis so you get a longer growing season. The coastal influence keeps it cool, so there are more floral notes and a lighter style to the wine. Dan describes the Azaya vineyard that grew this Pinot Noir. A really good wine has personality and if you use the word great, it has to have many good things about it, such as this one. They just did their first ever Wine Stroll in Petaluma. All the folks in Petaluma who sell wine, retailers, they sold 400 tickets. Petaluma has a great food scene and the wine scene is growing with the whole city, as an attractive district. They have live music tonight and live comedy tomorrow night. There is Trivia Night on Saturday, this weekend too. Panther Ridge Pinot Noir The next wine is the Panther Ridge Pinot Noir, also from the Petaluma Gap, but up on Sonoma Mountain. The vineyard is all volcanic soil, pumice and basalt, that gives dark flavors and good structure to the wine. Garry majored in Political Science at Duke and was in the Navy, in San Diego, France, Spain and northern California. By the time he was 23 he had tasted wine from all over the world. He was working in Hawaii, for a while selling advertising for the Honolulu Weekly. While going to go to the University of San Diego for an MBA and he met someone who said she was going to UC Davis for Viticulture and Enology. The very existence of such a degree was a surprise. Well, the passion became a job in 2004. He left a well-paying job as an IT project manager in the city and started the winery. All of his business skills carry over to winemaking in ways that help him ensure quality. The Wier Vineyard Pinot retails for $60. A 2018 is for sale now, already aged for you. This is already aged enough to be in the ‘right spot.’ Brooks Note is open daily from 11-6. Brooks Note is open daily from 11-6. Every Friday they have music from 5-7. Tomorrow (Sat. Dec. 13, 2025) the comedy show is at 8pm, there are tickets available on the website. They have Trivia next Saturday, Dec. 20. They only send ONE email per week. Weir Vineyards has a waiting list. He gets the fruit because his daughter went to school with the owner’s granddaughter and he pulled family friendship strings to get the fruit. Garry understands that he has to do things to attract attention for his wines. It all came together for him in Petaluma when he found his location. They bought the place in 2019 and it was their covid project to fix it up. Their capacity is  up to 150 people for private events. They have a couple of events, coming up. Dan Durkin the lead singer of Petty Theft, is performing. Bring a can of food to pass on to the homeless center, Friday Dec. 19, 2025. On Feb. 12, 2026 it’s a bigger event, stay tuned to California Wine Country and watch Brooks Notes Wines for more about that.

Bettina Sichel, the owner of Laurel Glen Vineyard is back in the studio as our guest on California Wine Country with Dan Berger and Daedalus Howell. She was on the show once before, on this episode last May. Bettina has brought a new wine that Dan is tasting for the first time. This is a 2025 Gruner Veltliner from a historic vineyard on Sonoma Mountain, an unusual grape from a historic vineyard. It is most associated with Austria, usually made dry and has a natural richness. It is not as austere as a Riesling can be. Dan suggests a little bit of green tea component in the grape, and some mineral flavors like slate. It is dry and rich at the same time. CWC is brought to you by Deodora Estate Vineyards. Visit Deodora to discover 72 acres in the Petaluma Gap that are producing exceptional Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Riesling. The Steiner Vineyard on Sonoma Mountain has two acres of Gruner Veltliner. Dan remembers the Galen Glen Vineyard in Lehigh Valley, Pennsylvania also makes a great Gruner Veltliner. Dan appreciates that Laurel Glen Vineyard uses a screw cap. Bettina says that all their white wines are bottled with screw caps. Dan explains that screw caps work great but with red wines of a certain price, people just expect a cork. Recently some screw cap producers have developed different screw caps that completely seal or that allow a little bit of air. You can choose the cap that matches your intentions as a winemaker. If a wine has to sit on the shelf for a long time, the cap protects the wine better than a cork might do. They are tasting the Laurel Glen Cabernet, which is blended with about 20% Merlot, to soften it.

Bibiana Ravé Bibiana Ravé, winemaker and co-owner of Shared Notes, joins Dan Berger and Daedalus Howell on California Wine Country. Bibana has been on CWC twice, first on this episode of August 29, 2019, to talk about her own wine brand Alma de Cattleya. Then, on April 5, 2023, Bibiana and her husband Jeff Pisoni were on this episode, to talk about Shared Notes. Bibiana grew up in Medellin, Colombia and studied enology in France. They are tasting a wine from Shared Notes, a winemaking project that she shares with her husband Jeff Pisoni. It is a blend of Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon. The blend is a bit different from year to year, depending on how the Semillon tastes. French Winemaking in California Bibiana practices French winemaking techniques in California. She describes winemaking as a personal experience. During her time in France, she stayed there and focussed on French wines only. She didn’t even study Italian or Spanish wines. CWC is brought to you by Deodora Estate Vineyards. Visit Deodora to discover 72 acres in the Petaluma Gap that are producing exceptional Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Riesling.  Her wines are “bone dry” with no residual sugar. They are on the low-to-middle alcohol level. She believes that it is truly all in the vineyard. They work with great vineyard sites. Their Sauvignon Blanc comes from the Ridge Vineyard, which Dan says is one of the best. The vines are 60 years old and have a low yield per acre. She ways that she could not make the wine that she does, if the growers were not as committed as she is. Dan Berger says this wine shows the ancient style with all the dry flavors that it requires. “Very few people in this world make wine that you want to open when your child is 21.” These wines will support 20 years in the bottle. [12:38] Dan Berger: “Most people don’t realize, in the olden days, they would make a wine that was one of the greatest wines in the history of mankind and the next vintage they would make something that was undrinkable. Because they didn’t have the science behind them to tell them what they needed to do! Now we have science, so we can do what we need to do to make great wine every single year.” https://calwinecountry.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/12/CWC-Promo-EG-Science.mp3 Every choice is a force on the vector There is a limit to letting the land and the vineyard speak for themselves. There are choices such as what to plant and where, how many vines per acre? For example, the difference between 848 vines per acre and 2420 vines per acre can completely determine the concentration, the phenolic ripeness and the quality of the fruit. Bibiana describes how she and Jeff wanted to produce wines in California in a way that many people thought could not be done. Dan says that this kind of project takes vision because there is no guarantee that anyone in this country will even understand these wines. [min. 20] Bibiana describes her arrival in Sonoma County in 2005 and she was making wine at the same facility as Jeff, for different labels. They became friends and then got married. Shared Notes Colombian Coffee [min. 23] Bibiana has also brought some special Colombian coffee. It is 100% hand grown single origin. The roast is done properly so the smell of coffee is permeating the room. Her two sons are 8 and 10 and she wanted something to connect her family to something positive from her home country. Coffee fits that perfectly. She thought they should start importing green coffee beans and roasting in California. That started in 2019, then in 2022 they started roasting coffee at the winery in Rhonert Park. Acidity is important for both coffee and wine. Also, both depend on fermentation, since even coffee beans have to be fermented to get the husks off. “I’ve never smelled a light roast with this kind of character,” says Dan Berger.

Peg Champion and Brad Whitworth from the Sonoma County Wine Library join Dan Berger and Daedalus Howell on California Wine Country. The Sonoma County Wine Library is reopening and the wine community is celebrating the rebirth of this great resource. They even have an Instagram page, here. The library holdings document the history of wine in Sonoma County, as well as all over. The renovation of the Healdsburg regional library has been a benefit to the wine library too. There is more space for meetings and for study. The Wine Library Association has just opened The Millie Howie Memorial Garden. She was the founder of the association. They also have several transcriptions of oral history interviews done with wine pioneers starting in the 1950s and ’60s. CWC is brought to you by Deodora Estate Vineyards. Visit Deodora to discover 72 acres in the Petaluma Gap that are producing exceptional Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Riesling. Peg, who is president of the Association, talks about their upcoming community events, starting with the Holiday Gathering on December 4. The library is in the center of Healdsburg. There is a photo exhibit of George Rose, the wine country photographer. and on December 16 he will be there for a “meet the photographer” event. The Atlantic Seaboard Wine Association on Feb. 1 They also collaborate with other wine organizations. The Atlantic Seaboard Wine Association will come in on Saturday, February 1, from 4-6 pm for a tasting of the Atlantic Seaboard’s 2024 wine competition award winners. [@ 12:16] Peg describes the culture in wine country as being open to collaboration and sharing of information. That feels like the opposite of the business culture where NDAs are enforced. The Sonoma County Wine Library is a part of fostering and favoring that open information culture. Dan Berger says that the library is important so that 100 years from now there will be a story to be told. The wineries are too busy trying to stay in business. They don’t have time to document their own history. There are treasures that are the last of their kind, that don’t exist anywhere else. It’s not just for the wineries, it’s for any interested researchers. Peg Champion mentions Megan Jones, the Sonoma County Library research librarian dedicated to this subject.

James MacPhail James MacPhail is our in-studio guest today on California Wine Country with Dan Berger and Daedalus Howell. This is his first time on the show. James MacPhail tells about how he was able to buy back the rights to his brand in July of 2024, so his business is undergoing a rebirth. He has just finished his thirtieth harvest. He and his wife started a brand in 2012 called Tongue Dancer Wines and he has four other collaborations where he is the winemaker. He works with some of the best vineyards in both Napa and Sonoma counties. Over several years he built his company MacPhail Family Wines, then sold it to Hess, then bought it back. Dan mentions that he will have to reassert his style over the brand’s production. With the tagline, “Crafted by nature, nurtured by hand,” the prospects are very good. CWC is brought to you by Deodora Estate Vineyards. Visit Deodora to discover 72 acres in the Petaluma Gap that are producing exceptional Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Riesling. “After 30 years, I’m still a kid in a candy store. I still love what I do. I still get up at 4AM. You know? And it has not yet… put me down.” He and his wife collaborate on their company. He just makes the wine and she does everything else. “Sometime she is a lot busier than I am.” Their tasting room is open by appointment. San Giacomo Family Vineyards Dan asks about the connection to San Giacomo Family Vineyards. The name is well known in the wine business but not so much outside. James says the San Giacomo family represents Sonoma County to him. San Giacomo sends grapes to many wineries, but James MacPhail is the only winemaker who lists their name on the label. Dan credits MacPhail with being predicting of what Pinot Noir would become, starting in the early ‘80s. The San Giacomo fruit is “precise” says Dan. The San Giacomo vineyard had early success planting Chardonnay en masse, providing fruit to all the up and coming producers. At that time, UC Davis was really figuring out how to grow Chardonnay. At first, James made a lot of reds, but he needed to add a white to his production. Dan describes Chardonnay as red wine with no color, and Pinot Noir is like white wine but with color. Pinot Noir is seductive and Chardonnay can be powerful and intense. Dan says they should be served at the same temperature. James and his wife have been traveling to Italy recently so his knowledge of wine is extending to Italian wines. Vermentino, Arneis and Cortese are Italian white wines that were hardly ever exported until the last 25 years. That is because they have only recently improved production technology, using stainless steel that is temperature controlled. There are more varieties in Italy than anywhere, more than 200 white varieties and 400 reds.

Winemaker Adam Lee is our in-studio guest today on California Wine Country with Dan Berger and Daedalus Howell. He has enjoyed a distinguished career as a winemaker and winery owner and now he runs Clarice Wine Co. The last time Adam was on the show was this episode of July 14, 2021. “If Adam Lee’s in the room, it’s gotta be Pinot Noir,” says Dan Berger, right at first. They are tasting a wine called Dial Tone, which has a picture of an old telephone dial on the label. For Adam Lee, Clarice should be, “…a very good honest Pinot at a reasonable price point.” It is 100% Pinot Noir with no alterations or additions. It uses the less expensive barrels which work well enough and are cheaper. This helps keep the retail price down. Adam remembers that the first wine he ever fell in love with was a 1989 Rocchioli Pinot Noir. It was great and cost about $13. Now he bottles this Pinot Noir and it retails for $19, so he achieved his goal. “Adam Lee is one of the greatest winemakers in America, period,” says Dan Berger. Adam founded Siduri Wines and also made wine in Oregon and Santa Barbara. He has also started a project in France. Clarice was Adam’s grandmother, born in 1896. She was his best friend growing up and taught him how to cook. There are QR codes on the labels with extensive information about what went into the wine. There is a lot of relevant information that does not fit on a 3×5 index card. Some wineries don’t publish this kind of information. Some people care to know the pH of a wine.

Jake Lachowitzer from Banshee Wines is our guest on California Wine Country with Dan Berger and Daedalus Howell. Banshee Wines was last on this show on this episode of June 1, 2022 which featured their winemaker at the time, Alicia Sylvester. Banshee wines stand out because they “…are so good and so reasonably priced…” says Dan Berger. They have broad distribution and are available “everywhere.” They begin tasting their Sauvignon Blanc. SV has become an important grape in Sonoma County, especially because winemakers are making it from places like Chalk Hill and Russian River Valley. This one comes from Dry Creek Valley, Chalk Hill and Russian River Valley AVAs. Dan Berger explains that this variety is capable of holding up against warmer weather later in the year. 2024 will be Jake’s first vintage at Banshee Wines. Their tasting room has moved to Geyserville, from Healdsburg. This wine has good enough acidity that it is made to go with food. Dan likes to serve it with goat cheese. Daedalus suggests gorgonzola with a little bit of honey. Dan suggests to go light on the honey so as not to overpower the wine flavors. He detects some flavors of preserved lemon and  Chamomile tea. Most people don’t age their wines, but the most interesting aspects of wine come out, in whites as well as reds, with a few years in the bottle. Jake Lachowitzer Jake Lachowitzer had a long journey to winemaking. He was born in Fargo, ND and had several careers before this. He first studied Sustainability and Environmental Science at Minnesota State University, then he got a graduate degree in winemaking and moved to Sonoma County. His first job was at Sonoma Cutrer in 2019. Then, he was assistant winemaker at Chalk Hill Estate.  There isn’t much wine made in the midwest, but there are some varieties that are made to withstand the Minnesota winter. Dan Berger says that the farmers have adapted a cold-hearty variety of grapes to their soil types and weather. Next they taste the 2024 Banshee Chardonnay. It is sourced from the Sonoma County Banshee estate. There are flavors of creme brulée, lemon curd, banana and nice barrel spice to finish it. It’s 30% new French oak, 9 months aging. Dan mentions the citrus flavors that characterize Sonoma County Chards. Most restaurants will serve it too cold, and the wine will have different flavors. This is because the health departments require refrigerators to be below 40 degrees and they can’t afford a separate refrigerator that is less cold. Today they are drinking it at about 65 or 66 degrees, which is warm enough for the flavors to express themselves. Next up is a Pinot Noir. Dan Berger says that up to about 20 years ago, it was hard to find the right locations for Pinot Noir. Jake is working with a wide variety of clones and locations. They also taste a 2023 Cabernet Sauvignon, which Dan likes because he remembers it was a cool year. This wine has green herbal flavors and beautiful aromatics, structure and herbal notes. The fruit is mostly from Alexander Valley.

Elaine, the owner of Elaine Wines is our guest today on California Wine Country with Dan Berger and Daedalus Howell. She started her winery after a career as an biotech intellectual property attorney. Dan Berger discovered these wines just by tasting them at an event. He was excited to find a Chardonnay that was not overdone and that smelled and tasted like Chardonnay. It is an older style of making Chardonnay that appeals to people like Dan who remember when that style was prevalent. Elaine Wines is a small winery but has already earned a bunch of awards. This first one for tasting is the 2023 Chardonnay, the youngest one that Elaine brought. All of the Chardonnays are made with fruit from her vineyard. She has three acres with one acre of Chard and two of Pinot Noir. Dan detects a little bit of dried pineapple character and the oak is very subtle. The vineyard is at high elevation and Dan says the wine matches the smell of the vineyard. There are fir trees and oaks nearby which influence the vineyard. Dan also appreciates the good acidity. The vines are 25 feet from their house. Before Elaine moved to California, she was a biotech patent attorney, with a background in molecular and micro-biology. She got an online certificate in winemaking from UC Davis, before she moved from North Carolina. Elaine found a custom crush where she was not obligated to meet a tonnage minimum, which allowed her to start making wine with a small production. She found a community of helpful people in California, who work in wine. That is uniform throughout most wine regions in the world, says Dan Berger. Dan says that Prohibition may have ended in 1933 but it was the 1960s before winemaking woke up in the US, in California mostly. Chardonnays The second Chardonnay they taste came from the same grapes, but the first had newer barrels and the 2022 was made in one single barrel that had been used once before. That is generally considered 50% new. She only made 23 cases of this, because they had a very low yield and she had promised some grapes to another winemaker. This wine won a Double Gold at the San Francisco Chronicle wine tasting. Dan says that the problem with a lot of Chardonnay today is that it has to be big and rich. This is the other side of the spectrum of types of Chard. A lot of people making Chardonnay are trying to make a wine that they think will sell. Elaine, on the other hand, came into this without that notion at all. She just lets the vineyard do what it can do, and then handle it in a way to bring that out. Don’t serve it too cold, because the flavors won’t come out. What’s more, this wine is a 2022 and it has had enough time to reach full maturity. She likes to do “as little as I can” and treat it gently. Pinot Noir The next tasting is a Pinot Noir that earned 99 points and a Double Gold from the American Fine Wine Competition, and Gold Medals all over the place. Dan says that the judges like it when the dominant flavor is fruit not oak. Dan describes the flavor of beets that is hiding in the wine.

Dan and Kevin Kevin Bersofsky, owner of Montagne Russe wines, is back on California Wine Country with Dan Berger and Harry Duke sitting in for Daedalus Howell today. He has been on CWC before, the last time was this episode of July 19, 2024. Dan Berger begins with a compliment for Kevin’s Pinot Noir. He replies, “Syrah is my spirit animal,” so he has brought some Syrah too. His cellar is 50% Syrah. Most collectors don’t keep as much as Kevin does. Dan explains that Syrah has to be grown in a cold climate, and warmer climates are risky. 2024 was “strange” and 2023 was cold. So the cold years give nicer aromatics. The San Giacomo Family vineyards The Pinot Noir says “Roberts Road” on the label, and Kevin explains. The San Giacomo family owns the vineyard. Kevin gives credit to the San Giacomo family for setting the conditions for making such a great wine. Angelo San Giacomo founded their company in the Carneros region. It wasn’t until about 1988-1990 when they started planting in what became known as the Petaluma Gap. The combination of the soils and the weather have made Petaluma Gap one of the most interesting AVAs in the country. There are volcanic soils on one side, and a mix of clay and loam in other areas. Gap’s Crown falls in the middle layer halfway up the hill, where the sediment has settled in the lower region. Every region of Gap’s Crown can produce different flavors, even just by crossing the street. Dan compares this to Burgundy. Montagne Russe means Russian Mountain literally, and is the French word for roller coaster. He was making 13 barrels of wine in his garage, which his neighbor objected to. He called ATF federal police and he had to destroy 4 barrels and promise to stop making wine at home. So then he and his friends started Montagne Russe. Their first wines got high scores, 93 and 94. About 3 months ago they opened a tasting room in Petaluma and they love it there.

Ken Wilson and Katie Ambrosi from Wilson Artisan Wines are here on California Wine Country with Dan Berger and Harry Duke sitting in for the vacationing Daedalus Howell. This is their first time on the show, although some award-winning Wilson wines were mentioned on Dan Berger’s report from the 2023 Harvest Fair competition, on this episde. Dan says that Wilson Artisan Wines is one of the most successful brands in Sonoma County and wine country, with many award winning wines in their portfolio. Their first wins go back to 1991. They produce a lot of different varieties from several leading vineyards. The early ’90s were tough times for the wine industry. They were lucky that the first wine they made, a 1993 or 1994 Cabernet Sauvignon won Best of Class at Harvest Fair a couple of years after that. The business expanded as opportunities opened up, especially during wine market downturns. Most of their fruit comes from northern Sonoma County. The furthest south they go is probably a Bacigaluppi and some from St. Anne’s Crossing and a few others. But it’s mostly northern county and mostly mountain fruit. Mazzocco and Antoine Favera In the early 2000s there was another glut and nobody could sell wine to the East Coast, after 9-11. That’s when Ken had a lot of fruit that the wineries didn’t want that year. That’s when he acquired Mazzocco and that is when Antoine Favera became their winemaker. There are lots of other brands in the Wilson Artisan Wines portfolio, and each one has a view on the Wilson Artisan Wines website. One after another, Ken had the opportunity to acquire various vineyards. Some were in need of restoration but every one produces great wine. Some of them are specialized in one varietal, like Honey Hill is mostly Zinfandel. Ken tells the story of each one that Harry asks about. They also blend brandies. You get one gallon of distillate out of ten gallons of wine. They have been tasting the 2022 Cabernet Sauvignon labeled Pocket Highlands. That is the name of their ranch at the top of Mayacama Mountains. It is about 2000 feet altitude. Pocket Highlands Ranch is located east of Asti. Ken loves his mountain vineyards. A picture of the vineyard is used as the Apple computer OS update Sonoma.

Nicola Pellacani of Saintsbury Winery joins Dan Berger and Daedalus Howell on California Wine Country today. Dan Berger explains that Saintsbury has been around for about 40 years with a record of getting better and better all the time and Nico will tell us their story. Saintsbury used to be focussed on Carneros and now have shifted toward Sonoma Coast. Nico has brought their Sonoma Coast Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, made from their favorite vineyards. They start with the 2023 Sonoma Coast Chardonnay. Most of it comes from a San Giacomo family vineyard. Dan Berger describes the cool climate influence with a bit of the complexity of Chablis and a light acidity. Saintsbury has been using this vineyard for a long time. Some of the planting was even done for Saintsbury. Where the senses and the mind come together The process of building a blend involves three or four passes. Nicola describes blending as a process where “…senses and mind come together. You have to allow yourself to reach that point.” Nicola started at Saintsbury as an intern in 2018. He worked on his first harvest that year, while was still a student in viticulture and enology at the University of Bologna in Italy. He is now the assistant winemaker A family winery with a family atmosphere Nico grew up in Italy and wine is on the table all the time. Dan Berger is eager to learn from the younger people in the world of wine. People’s palettes have evolved and this continues, just as weather patterns have changed. Nico mentions two mentors at Saintsbury, they are Tim Colla, the head winemaker at Saintsbury, and Jaime, their cellar master who has been there for 20 years. They have lots of conversations and taste lots of blends. They have family style lunch every Friday at Saintsbury. Having come from Italy, Nico is grateful to have a family feeling at Saintsbury. Dan Berger describes the house style of Saintsbury, which has remained consistent for 40 years. Next they taste a pétillant-naturel, which is abbreviated to pét-nat.  It has very small and light bubbles and Dan declares it is delightful. They only made about 150 cases of it. Saintsbury has an event scheduled for November 1, 2025, at the Napa winery at 1500 Los Carneros Ave. It is a celebration of past and present winemakers. It is more like a market, with local artisans.

Oded Shakked, Longboard Vineyards Oded Shakked from Longboard Vineyards is back on California Wine Country with Dan Berger and Daedalus Howell. He has been on CWC several times before, the last two times were this episode on September 20, 2024. and a year before that, this episode on November 17, 2023. Today he has brought more Longboard wines to taste and to discuss. Oded Shakked’s episodes on California Wine Country have the distinction of holding the N.1 and N.2 positions for the most traffic (streams plus downloads) among all CWC episodes in the last eight years of the podcast. Congratulations to Oded and Longboard Vineyards! Daedalus Howell begins by remembering that his last film premiered at Longboard Vineyards, as part of what is now the True West Film Fest. Oded Shakked remembers that he liked the movie. 40 Harvests! This morning, Oded Shakked finished his 40th harvest, 28 for Longboard and the rest, for others. He still gets energized during harvest, when you work 12-18 hour days and feel jazzed afterwards. Oded wants to find a balance, for Sauvignon Blanc, using grapes from different regions and 40% in neutral barrels, the rest in stainless steel, so partial ML, but still good natural acidity. They are tasting the 2024 SV from Russian River Valley. A lot of SV has been converted to Pinot Noir, but not this vineyard. “It has a nice snap to it, … green pea… melon… Meyer lemon…” says Dan. It has a character that Oded likes to call sun-dried linen. Dan says that unfortunately, California Chardonnay is produced for people who like something rich. Dan considers those Chardonnays to be cocktail wines. SV is more fascinating because it has more nuances of flavor. In this Chard from Longboard, the ML is subtle. And unlike some New Zealand SVs, it is not too sweet. It is not served too cool, so the flavors are more evident. Watergirl Rosé Oded always wanted to make Rosé, and initially he made it from Syrah. However it did not sell. At the time, Rosé had not yet become fashionable. Most people in Russian River Valley make Rosé from Pinot Noir. Oded makes his Rosé mostly from Grenache, with some Syrah and Caringnane. He is looking for that southern French style. The name Watergirl Rosé comes from the wine’s previous name, which was Wahine. That means a surfer girl in Hawaiian, and nobody knew the word or could pronounce it. Oded is a lifelong surfer. He noticed that whenever there were women in the water, they had to work twice as hard to compete for space to drop in. He has a lot of respect for them because of that and so the wine is named for them. This Watergirl Rosé has juicy berry notes and watermelon at first, then the finish gets a little bit of the red wine component. Later in the show Oded tells the story of how he grew up 100 yards from the beach in Israel. He started surfing as a kid and he still surfs. After his military service he made surfboards for a living, for a while. He would close shop in September and go to surf the west facing beaches in Portugal, Spain and France for months at a time. His interest in wine started in Spain on surf trips, drinking Albariño. It took some time for him to get so interested in wine. A friend of the family told him about a winemaking school in the US, and he took the suggestion. Later, he started Longboard because he wanted to write off his surf trips and admits that at first, he never thought the winery would last, let alone be so successful.

Christian Adams with the German Wine Collection is back on California Wine Country with Dan Berger and Daedalus Howell. The last time he was on CWC was this episode last November . The name Fumé Blanc is still used by about 10% of the bottlers of Sauvignon Blanc. It was a name that Robert Mondavi came up with, for Sauvignon Blanc wine. Then in 1973 David Stare, founder of Dry Creek Vineyards, also started using it. Once the name was used, the federal government required the subtitle “Sauvignon Blanc” to explain Fumé Blanc. Dan Berger has invited Christian Adams again, to emphasize the great wines coming from Germany. They used to have a reputation for being dominated by sweet whites but that’s no longer true. Who wants dry Riesling? I do! I do! After France and the US, Germany is the world’s third producer of Pinot Noir by volume. The weather in Germany is just warm enough for Pinot Noir, although mostly still too cold for Cabernet. Pinot Noir was brought to Germany in the middle ages. Up to about 40 years ago, the German Pinots were rather light. Some producers were making “off dry” Pinot Noir, slightly sweet. Now they are making world class Pinot Noir that rivals those of Burgundy. “This is really good!” -Dan Berger The use of oak is so careful that it’s almost not there, which favors the fruit flavors. Pfeffingen has been making wine since 1622. Pfaltz is the German name of the Palatinate region in western Germany where a lot of German Pinot Noir comes from. CWC is brought to you by Deodora Estate Vineyards. Visit Deodora to discover 72 acres in the Petaluma Gap that are producing exceptional Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Riesling. This wine is aged in a combination of smaller German and French oak barrels. Christian Adams raises the question that people often ask. What are the differences among barrels, where the wood is grown, and where the barrels are made? Christian explains that some wood comes from Romania or Germany. The differences include how much the wood is toasted and how big the barrels are. Smaller barrels make for more contact area with the wine.

Kim Stare Wallace and Brian Pruett are our guests on California Wine Country with Dan Berger and Daedalus Howell. Brian is the winemaker at Dry Creek Vineyards and this is his first time on California Wine Country. Kim’s last time on the show was this episode of March 30, 2022. Dan begins by describing Chenin Blanc and how versatile it is in Europe. Dry Creek Valley is making a sparkling Chenin Blanc to celebrate their 50th anniversary. They love Cremant de Loire, and the Stare family have friends in Loire Valley, so it felt right to make one for the celebration. Brian had never made a sparkling wine before but it worked so well they will make it every year. Sparkling Chenin Blanc They only needed to harvest a couple of weeks earlier than the still wine harvest, in order to get lower sugars and higher acidity. It is actually 90% Chenin Blanc and 10% Cabernet Franc. Chenin Blanc of course also makes a great still wine. Dry Creek Vineyards has been bottling Chenin Blanc for many years. They always called it Dry Chenin Blanc. Her father, is the pioneering winemaker David Stare. He always thought it important to point out the difference between their Chenin Blanc and many others, that veer toward the sweet side. CWC is brought to you by Deodora Estate Vineyards. Visit Deodora to discover 72 acres in the Petaluma Gap that are producing exceptional Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Riesling.  Dry Creek Valley has been bottling Bordeaux-style blended wines “since the get go.” They have made some that favor the Cabernet side, and others like this new one that favor Merlot. They know the vineyards they are using, and they are looking for the oak not to overshadow the fruit or the vineyard. They want the wines to be as complex as possible and support combining with food. Daedalus notices a balance between power and elegance. Kim tells about Dry Creek Vineyard’s decision to focus on Dry Creek Valley as a source for their Bordeaux program. They have all kinds of conditions that favor the growth of Bordeaux varieties. Brian also remembers the influence of the Pacific Ocean that cools us off at night.

Dan Berger, Clark Smith and Clark’s book Postmodern Winemaking. Clark Smith, one of our most frequent guests, is back again on California Wine Country with Dan Berger and Daedalus Howell. His last time on CWC was this episode on Dec. 6, 2024, when he talked about unusual varietals. Dan Berger is at WineSong today, and Clark Smith is here with Daedalus Howell. Clark Smith just got through bottling 12 new wines. One of the great things about wine is that you can’t experience it on the internet. You can experience a lot of BS about wine on the Internet, though. Daedalus remembers. At first, there were some important writers who moved wrote in magazines, now writing online. Clark remembers that they were friends of the wine industry. They wanted to promote the idea of wine as a beverage. In 1972 when Clark Smith went into the wine business, he toured the country and met as many of them as he could. Now there are 13,00o so that’s a big change. Clark Smith notes the difference between regulation of the wine industry between the US and France. In France, the regulations are all about making the wine, and in the US, regulation all about selling the wine. CWC is brought to you by Deodora Estate Vineyards. Visit Deodora to discover 72 acres in the Petaluma Gap that are producing exceptional Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Riesling. They have a Pinot Noir from the Lester Family estate in the Santa Cruz mountains, which Clark calls the best region for growing wine anywhere. They also have a Sangiovese and a Zinfandel classico. Dan Berger Calls from WineSong Dan is on the road at WineSong, calling on the phone. Clark mentions the Zinfandel they are tasting in the studio, which he made in the old style, “before the world went nuts” and people started asking for wines that were big “pruny high-alcohol” wines. Zins that reach 17% ABV, absurd. Why did Napa Cabernet go this way? It’s really a disgrace. Clark makes wonderful Napa Cabernet, the way they used to in the ’70s. “We got into this sort of wet T-shirt contest, how big can we make the wine?” Big became too big. Napa really grows some of the best Cabernet in the world, “then we just piss it away making these clown wines…” Word.

Winemakers Greg Morthole and Chris O’Gorman join Dan Berger and Daedalus Howell on California Wine Country. Greg is the winemaker at Davis Bynum. They are here to celebrate the 50th anniversary of Davis Bynum’s wine company. He was a pioneer in Russian River Valley and was one of the first to make Pinot Noir. Pinot Noir is difficult to grow properly. Davis Bynum’s father was a journalist and wrote a book about how to make wine. Davis became a journalist from the age of 25 to 40 for the San Francisco Chronicle. At 40 he studied winemaking at the Berkeley library and went through a few “hard knocks.” Dan points out that the one thing about Russian River Valley is that the weather is cool. The wines had natural acidity and did not need to be adjusted. Davis liked the natural style of winemaking because they required less work. His wines were always very good. When Dan interviewed him in 1986, he was making Merlot which he loved. Greg remembers that Davis would also play music to the vines. He started by raising organic grapes but got tired of paying certification fees. Davis Bynum Greg Morthole got to work with Davis Bynum, who passed away in 2017 at the age of 92. He was an interesting character and Greg heard a lot of stories from him. They taste a 2023 Davis Bynum Dutton Origin Chardonnay (on the left, in the picture above). It has a beautiful rich personality. Dan calls it almost Burgundian in its aromatics. It has good acidity so it could be served with rich seafoods like lobster. It will probably get better after 2 or 3 years in the bottle. This wine come from a block that the Dutton family has been farming since the 1880s. The 50th Anniversary Wine The next tasting is the 50th Anniversary wine, a 2023 vintage. Dan Berger loves it but Greg Morthole gives credit to the weather. That year the ripening was slow, then there was some rain, and only then, the fruit ripened perfectly. “Mother nature just gave us a great wine,” says Greg. Dan suggests, and Greg agrees, that the ripening conditions this year remind him of 2023. They only made 35 cases of it.

Jamie Peters from WineSong is our guest here in the studio on California Wine Country with Dan Berger and Daedalus Howell. The Mendocino Coast Botanical Gardens, September 5 and 6 will host Winesong. Dan Berger has invited Jamie Peters from Winesong to talk about the 40th anniversary of this event. Dan has brought some Riesling that was grown at Cole Ranch in Mendocino County. This is Dan’s production called Bahl Fratty. He made 65 cases this year. There is also an Anderson Valley Handley Cellars 2019 Gewurtztraminer and a Dancing Crow Vineyards wine, and many more. (Bahl Fratty is Boontling for Great Wine. Boontling is a historic local argot that is native to Anderson Valley. It was a secret code that locals used to confound visitors.) Mendocino Coast Healthcare Foundation Dan Berger describes WineSong as a tasting event with great food, music and a walk through the botanical gardens. The wine auction is a fund raiser for the Mendocino Coast Healthcare Foundation. They actually also have wines from Napa and Sonoma at the auction, and even from Oregon, but mostly local product. The foundation supports health care and also local fire stations. Forty years ago the idea for WineSong started at the kitchen table of a local nurse. She is still involved in the event. Dan is proud that one year, the auction raised enough to purchase a new ambulance. That was a big deal. There are lots of musicians who love to play this gig. Some are regulars, others rotate in and out. Some regular guests get to know the band members. Since it’s always the first weekend after Labor Day, the cooling breezes are always blowing at the end of the day. It’s a great scene for a great cause. It’s a barrel auction, so how do you get the wine home, asks Daedalus? They have a solution that turns it into about 24 cases.