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Underdressed

Author: Trudy Gardner

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The podcast where we talk about the clothes under our clothes and exactly how they get made. I'll explore the art, practice and technical execution of intimate apparel in order to understand what happens behind the scenes in this industry and exactly how designers balance creativity with functionality, specifically as it pertains to our delicate yet hard-working base layers.
45 Episodes
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I could listen to this woman talk about bras all day! Kimberly Hamilton is basically a walking encyclopedia of bra knowledge, especially when we're talking about the full bust size range. Besides all that, Kim's story is incredibly inspiring, she has an uncanny breadth and depth of knowledge and experience garnered from decades of working in the industry in Canada and Europe. She's worked with both small retailers and large corporations like Lululemon, she's battled breast cancer, and she is now running her own boutique bra store providing individual bra fitting and access to great products in her store Kimtimates in Red Deer, Alberta.Make sure you stay tuned until the end, Kim gave us an extra special bonus in helping me identify fit issues of a couple of sports bras I was testing out. I'm happy to get to share her beautiful mind filled with juicy bra knowledge.https://www.kimtimates.com/
In this episode of Underdressed, I sit down with custom bra maker and teacher Linda Crawford. Linda shares her incredible journey from scuba diving instructor to becoming one of the most respected voices in bra making in Canada. We talk about her early days working alongside Beverly Johnson at Bra-Makers Supply, the birth of a bra making community, and what she’s learned from decades of fitting every kind of body. We also dive into why custom bra making is such a rare skill, how teaching has shaped her expertise, and how cultural shifts continue to influence lingerie design today.Other episodes mentioned:E42 Monica of Bravo Bellas on Learning as Empowermenthttps://open.spotify.com/episode/2cPrcrE7V6ZU8q52KlwfmX?si=311107c8e00a4c4aE5 Ruhee Rajan on The Value of Custom Brashttps://open.spotify.com/episode/5cSmfMa9vHWia3tbSLLw2I?si=dd34437556984ea5
Sponsor: ⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠Clo3D Foundations For Intimate Apparel Online Course⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠ Use code: Underdressed for 20% offFind Monica herehttps://bravobella.teachable.com/https://www.instagram.com/bravobellabras/In this episode of Underdressed, we speak with Monica O’Rourke, founder of Bravo Bella and creator of the Bra Making Mentorship — a 10-month program designed to meet sewists where they are and guide them through the technical, creative, and often emotional journey of bra making.Monica shares how her upbringing in a family-owned fabric store shaped her maker mindset from an early age, and how she later combined her background in teaching math and science with her deep knowledge of bra construction to develop a unique and empowering approach to lingerie education.The conversation explores the complexity of bra making, from the technical nuances of fit and pattern alteration to the psychological barriers many people face when trying to make garments that work for their bodies. Monica emphasizes the importance of learning in community and reframing “mistakes” as discoveries — moments that move us forward in our craft and in our confidence.We also discuss the limitations of ready-to-wear sizing, the underrepresentation of custom bra makers in our communities, and how Monica’s mentorship aims to shift that narrative by equipping more people to design, fit, and create intimate apparel that truly works.This episode is a powerful reflection on skill-building, self-trust, and the radical act of making garments that support us — literally and emotionally.
Sponsor: ⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠Clo3D Foundations For Intimate Apparel Online Course⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠ Use code: Underdressed for 20% offFind Chloe here:https://www.instagram.com/createdbychloegrant/https://www.instagram.com/peopleoverproductmagazine/In this episode of Underdressed, we speak with Chloe Grant, an intimate apparel designer dedicated to sustainability and ethical fashion practices. Chloe shares her journey from studying contour fashion at De Montfort University to launching her freelance career focused on environmentally-conscious ethically produced garments. The conversation explores the delicate balance designers face between making structured, supportive intimate apparel and minimizing long-term environmental impact.Chloe discusses her approach to sustainability, highlighting innovative materials like bio-based elastane and seaweed-derived fabrics. She emphasizes the importance of accessibility and transparency in sustainability practices and introduces her new project aimed at building a digital community and platform for intimate apparel creatives to easily access sustainability information.The episode also touches on broader industry challenges, such as reconciling consumerism with sustainability, the role of legislation in ethical production, and the potential for digital solutions like CLO 3D to reduce environmental footprints. Join us for an insightful discussion that sheds light on making sustainability achievable and attractive in intimate apparel design.
Sponsor: ⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠Clo3D Foundations For Intimate Apparel Online Course⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠ Use code: Underdressed for 20% offSo inspired by our guest Maya Omrani. Maya is the founder of Wear Lab offering product development and manufacturing based out of Vancouver, Canada. This was a refreshing and inspiring conversation which is so needed in these uncertain times.
Sponsor: ⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠Clo3D Foundations For Intimate Apparel Online Course⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠ Use code: Underdressed for 20% offIn this episode of Underdressed, I chat with Suhani Pandya, a lingerie innovator with a Master of Science in Intimate Apparel Design. Suhani shares her research on underwire innovation, 3D scanning, and behavioural science to improve bra fit, particularly for full-bust women. We discuss the limitations of traditional grading, the role of SolidWorks and 3D printing in lingerie design and the future of 3D scanning for the consumer.
This is my favourite episode of the year to make, and it gets more special as the years go by. Sofia, thank you for asking the right questions to help me find clarity and sharing this incredible journey. Happy 2025 to all my amazing listeners—thank you for your time, attention, and connection. I love you all!
Sponsor: ⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠Clo3D Foundations For Intimate Apparel Online Course⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠ Use code: Underdressed for 20% off Where to find Ella; https://www.instagram.com/thefashionfreelancecoach/ https://www.thefashionfreelancecoach.com/ Links Mentioned; You’re A Badass At Making Money, Jen Sincrco (affiliate link) https://amzn.to/3NRKyUX
Sponsor: ⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠Clo3D Foundations For Intimate Apparel Online Course⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠ Use code: Underdressed for 20% off Renata’s story illustrates the intersection of fashion, empowerment, and technology. Through perseverance, smart business decisions, and innovative design, she has built a company that supports women physically, emotionally and financially. Find out more about Eby here and check out some incredible 3D design here; https://shop.join-eby.com/
Sponsor: ⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠Clo3D Foundations For Intimate Apparel Online Course⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠ Use code: Underdressed for 20% off Where to find Dorelle; https://www.youtube.com/c/TheFashionTech https://www.instagram.com/thefashionindie/
Sponsor: ⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠Clo3D Foundations For Intimate Apparel Online Course⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠ Use code: Underdressed for 20% off Check out the models I show in the episode here; https://www.embodee.app/u/1dXSi6 Embodee platform https://www.embodee.com/
Sponsor: ⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠Clo3D Foundations For Intimate Apparel Online Course⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠ Use code: Underdressed for 20% off Sofia's Course https://atelier.sofia-luzon.com/online-courses-lingerie-design/ E14 Natalie Graham A Career in Lingerie Design From South Africa To New Zealand https://podcasters.spotify.com/pod/show/trudy-gardner/episodes/E14-Natalie-Graham-A-Career-in-Lingerie-Design-From-South-Africa-to-New-Zealand-e26n4em Sew Heidi https://successfulfashiondesigner.com/ Sofia’s YT Vid about avatars  https://youtu.be/j22oh65_cVw?si=GGdhS0vBLEMty58o
Sponsor: ⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠Clo3D Foundations For Intimate Apparel Online Course⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠ Use code: Underdressed for 20% off This episode features Ryan Amore, a brilliant pattern engineer and apparel developer with extensive experience across various garment types, including intimates! I had the pleasure of chatting with Ryan about his impressive career, the secrets behind honing his craft, how he's integrating new technologies, and his insights on the future of fashion. https://ryanamoreinc.com/
Sponsor: ⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠Clo3D Foundations For Intimate Apparel Online Course⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠ Use code: Underdressed for 20% off Our next episode features Nicole Holtan, a talented 3D artist and fashion designer. Nicole shares how she built her career around 3D modeling and we also explore the benefits and challenges of using 3D technology today. We discuss the major differences between 3D and AI, and how their work often gets mixed up. Don't miss this fascinating conversation about creativity and innovation in the digital fashion space! https://www.instagram.com/nicoleholtan3d/ https://www.nicoleholtan3d.com/
Sponsor: ⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠Clo3D Foundations For Intimate Apparel Online Course⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠ Use code: Underdressed for 20% off Enjoy my next episode with guest Sarah McKelevy of Hugs for Your Jugs! Sarah has been providing expert bra-making guidance across various communities and is the creator of the A Bra That Fits Calculator. Tune in to hear her insights and expertise! https://hugsforyourjugs.blogspot.com/ https://www.reddit.com/r/ABraThatFits/ https://www.abrathatfits.org/calculator.php
Sponsor: ⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠Clo3D Foundations For Intimate Apparel Online Course⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠ Use code: Underdressed for 20% offOur next episode of Underdressed is an interview I've been looking forward to for a long time with Jenny Rushmore of Cashmerette Patterns! I get into the details with Jenny about the creation of the Willowdale and Loftus bra patterns and we also explore the dynamic structure of her team and business. Enjoy!
Sponsor: ⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠Clo3D Foundations For Intimate Apparel Online Course⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠ Use code: Underdressed for 20% off Hello Friends, In this episode of Underdressed Elizabeth opens my mind to the world of computational patternmaking and generative garment development far beyond what I have explored in Clo3D.  I definitely still don’t understand the nuances of this process, but I’m very intrigued to learn more. 
I thought this would be a fun way to tell you a bit about myself, but of course it ends with Sofia and I just talking about Clo3D! Enjoy!
Sponsor: ⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠Clo3D Foundations For Intimate Apparel Online Course⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠ Use code: Underdressed for 20% off Hi Friends, I hope you enjoy this conversation with Katy as much as I did. I'm super lucky to get to nerd out for more than an hour about 3D bodies, breasts and the implications on the future of the intimates industry. As promised here are all the link's mentioned in the show; Katherine Schildemyer https://www.ksappareldesign.com/ Soft Body Demo on Youtubehttps://youtu.be/dR6lnclrKhM?si=QC8IXZx01gSuJAzC https://youtu.be/D3L1OAfiri0?si=ZwrO7GDKssjCnRe4 Seddi Textura https://textura.ai/ Shima Seiki https://www.shimaseiki.com/product/design/software/ Rhino https://www.rhino3d.com/ Lex Frideman and Mark Zukerberghttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MVYrJJNdrEg   Historical book on 3D design https://books.apple.com/us/book/innovation-and-technology-of-womens-intimate/id956774334 https://standards.ieee.org/ieee/3141/10825/
Sponsor: ⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠Clo3D Foundations For Intimate Apparel Online Course⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠ Use code: Underdressed for 20% off Hello Friends, In this episode we get a behind the scenes peek at Tensengral, a company developed by Brad and Terry Jamison. This is a unique couple who have used some very industrious skills to develop braided underwear from lace making machines. https://www.tensengral.com/ https://lingeriebriefs.com/2024/01/14/innovation-sustainability-tensengrals-braided-lace-bralettes/
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