That's Not Real Climbing

This is Charlie’s second time on the podcast and he’s back with a big announcement! For those who aren’t familiar, Charlie preceded Matt Groom as the IFSC/World Climbing commentator. This time, he’s back to talk about the brand new competition series, Pro Climbing League. In this episode, we’ll go over all the details of what a PCL competition will look like, the challenges they faced the past 5 years putting this together, and I’m diving into all the finances as well.Guest links:PCL WebsitePCL InstagramCharlie’s InstagramReference links:Solo Documentary (Kayaking Story)Thank you Mad Rock for sponsoring this episode! Use code 'notrealclimber' for 10% off your ENTIRE order, even if you're a returning customer! https://madrock.com/Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.comFollow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcastJoin the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zpJoin Patreon for a welcome gift, deleted scenes, and question priority: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcastTimestamps of discussion topics0:00 - Intro1:33 - Mad Rock Shoutout!!2:13 - PCL test event3:32 - IFSC/World Climbing Background6:17 - What is Pro Climbing League?11:18 - Live routesetting during a competition15:21 - YOU may be able to compete!19:25 - Hardest part of setting up a climbing league24:25 - Why PCL was started29:16 - AUDIENCE Q: What prompted the head to head format?34:18 - AUDIENCE Q: Did you consult with athletes for this format?40:00 - AUDIENCE Q: Challenges broadcasting this comp?44:22 - Getting sponsor money for the league47:08 - Most expensive part53:00 - AUDIENCE Q: What will the prize money look like?1:00:07 - I'm addicted to the concept of sports betting1:05:08 - What does success look like?1:08:51 - AUDIENCE Q: Future schedule and locations?1:11:18 - AUDIENCE Q: What aspect of the format excited athletes the most?1:14:16 - AUDIENCE Q: Will you use adjustable walls for the comp?1:17:07 - Where to find PCL deets!

Declan and Zoe just competed at the Fukuoka exhibition team event for team USA where they climbed in all 5 boulder and lead rounds! In this episode, we’ll learn about their unorthodox climbing training program here in San Diego, how team selection and strategy worked at Fukuoka, and whether there was added pressure climbing with a team and coach present.Guest links:Declan’s InstagramZoe’s InstagramReference links:Fukuoka Competition PlaylistYank n yard stream: Highball boulders compThank you Mad Rock for sponsoring this episode! Use code 'notrealclimber' for 10% off your ENTIRE order, even if you're a returning customer! https://madrock.com/Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.comFollow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcastJoin the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zpJoin Patreon for a welcome gift, deleted scenes, and question priority: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcastTimestamps of discussion topics0:00 - Intro1:23 - Mad Rock Shoutout!!2:03 - Starting climbing and competing4:48 - Strength training BAD?!10:18 - Japan traveling11:50 - Fukuoka team event selection process14:28 - Difficulty of the climbs18:37 - Talking to the coach during the comp20:59 - Pressure climbing with a coach and teammates23:51 - Team competition strategies28:08 - 5 rounds in 3 days31:06 - First time competing on IFSC livestream33:15 - The stress of youth competitions35:34 - World Cup climbing is uncomfortable40:23 - Lead vs boulder preference44:37 - Future climbing + education goals49:26 - Now we're just glazing San Diego54:41 - Audience Q: Anything you would've wanted to change with the team event?58:59 - AUDIENCE Q: Memories/advice from youth training?1:02:17 - Being known as the "benchwarmers' benchwarmers"1:03:08 - Outdoor goals1:05:17 - Beating Elden Ring1:06:28 - Relationship advice from 18 year olds!1:09:13 - Words of wisdom + where to find Zoe and Declan

You may have heard of him as the slab master, but Hannes is a climber on Team Belgium who just recently got silver in boulder at Arco Rockmasters and also won a bronze in Innsbruck this past 2025 season! In this episode, we’ll go over his 2025 season, get his tips on slab climbing, and learn about how he tries to stay in the right mindset during stressful competitions.Guest links:Hannes’ InstagramReference links:Amazing Arco Rockmaster Slab TopThe Backflip of AngerThank you Mad Rock for sponsoring this episode! Use code 'notrealclimber' for 10% off your ENTIRE order, even if you're a returning customer! https://madrock.com/Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.comFollow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcastJoin the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zpJoin Patreon for a welcome gift, deleted scenes, and question priority: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcastTimestamps of discussion topics0:00 - Intro1:12 - Mad Rock Shoutout!!1:56 - Elbow surgery!4:20 - Rockmasters reflection10:55 - Getting into climbing and competing 15:27 - Transitioning out of youth comps17:24 - 2025 season reflection22:41 - Comps are going back to old-school climbs26:08 - Instagram influencing world cups28:44 - Staying in shape throughout a long competition season32:10 - Lead vs boulder preference35:43 - Training schedule + lifting vs gaining weight43:12 - Pressure being the slab master47:31 - Top slab tips49:45 - The fickle mental game of comps52:58 - Power of visualization for mindset56:55 - The backflip of anger!!1:00:16 - Taking his driving test1:05:03 - 2026 goals1:06:44 - AUDIENCE Q: What is the language situation in team Belgium?1:09:37 - AUDIENCE Q: Do you think calisthenics/gymnastics is necessary now in comp climbing?1:11:35 - AUDIENCE Q: How to stay calm during competitions?1:16:43 - Words of wisdom + where to find Hannes

Ben is a climber on Team USA and hold shaper for Pusher holds! In this episode we’ll get some insight into the grades of world cup boulders, how depression, anxiety, and ADHD shapes his relationship with climbing, how he balances working as a routesetter with training, and get his thoughts on hold shaping.Guest links:Ben’s InstagramReference links:Seoul World Champs Boulder SemisThe Boss holdThank you Mad Rock for sponsoring this episode! Use code 'notrealclimber' for 10% off your ENTIRE order, even if you're a returning customer! https://madrock.com/Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.comFollow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcastJoin the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zpJoin Patreon for a welcome gift, deleted scenes, and question priority: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcastTimestamps of discussion topics0:00 - Intro1:10 - Mad Rock Shoutout!!1:53 - World champs experience11:51 - Difficulty of semis boulders at world cups18:33 - Getting into climbing and competing22:36 - Climbing as self-medication for ADHD30:20 - Training routine...or lack thereof38:44 - Actually a lead climber45:21 - MORE power boulders!51:55 - Competitiveness with Colin55:11 - Becoming a hold shaper59:00 - Good holds vs bad holds1:09:54 - Thoughts on no tex1:20:05 - 2026 goals1:21:56 - AUDIENCE Q: Did you really start climbing at 2?1:26:19 - AUDIENCE Q: What kept you motivated to keep trying after failures at nationals1:30:53 - AUDIENCE Q: What local climbers helped you growing up?1:33:51 - Shoutouts + where to find Ben

Annie is a climber on Team USA and she had an amazing world cup season this year with 2 boulder golds and a lead gold and even more podiums! In this episode we’ll learn about what goes through her mind during her crazy beta breaks, what her training routine looks like, and how gym access really influences performance.Guest links:Annies’s InstagramAnnie’s Xiaohungshu (red book)Reference links:Women’s Boulder Final Seoul World ChampsThank you Mad Rock for sponsoring this episode! Use code 'notrealclimber' for 10% off your ENTIRE order, even if you're a returning customer! https://madrock.com/Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.comFollow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcastJoin the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zpJoin Patreon for a welcome gift, deleted scenes, and question priority: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcastTimestamps of discussion topics0:00 - Intro0:56 - Mad Rock Shoutout!!1:39 - Jetlag + travels5:29 - Growing up in a climbing family7:09 - Static + slow climbing style10:07 - Regretting static beta breaks??12:08 - Timing out in lead18:22 - 2026 goals20:49 - Annie's training plan24:32 - Lack of gym access27:43 - Post-high school plans30:22 - Outdoor climbing33:38 - AUDIENCE Q: Can you still be an elite climber without passion?35:43 - Audience Q: Mindset during comps?41:36 - AUDIENCE Q: Tips for endurance?42:26 - Audience Q: Advice on how to break dynos?43:23 - AUDIENCE Q: Is it hard previewing climbs with other athletes?45:57 - Outro and where to find Annie

Sagi has been the German team’s bouldering coach since 2022! In this episode, we’ll get insight into Team Germany’s training and challenges, hear why he thinks the losses hurt the coaches more than the competitors, we’ll get a story about his experience as a homeless person while in the US, and most importantly, we’ll DEBUNK his famous statement in the Magnus video that Olympic qualifiers will still be in the combined format for 2028!Guest links:Sagi’s InstagramReference links:IFSC Format Experiment Upcoming CompThank you Mad Rock for sponsoring this episode! Use code 'notrealclimber' for 10% off your ENTIRE order, even if you're a returning customer! https://madrock.com/Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.comFollow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcastJoin the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zpJoin Patreon for a welcome gift, deleted scenes, and question priority: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcastTimestamps of discussion topics0:00 - Intro1:40 - Mad Rock Shoutout!!2:24 - Youth worlds + Spain travels4:59 - Climbing + coaching with no experience!12:02 - Becoming the German bouldering coach19:42 - Do pros still need climbing tips??22:41 - Team Germany's training breakdown + reaction time practice28:19 - Comforting athletes who have a bad round37:58 - DEBUNKING LA 2028 qualification process44:07 - The issue with bouldering points system47:32 - HOT TAKE: Bouldering is no longer real climbing54:53 - New generation of climbing1:02:55 - German team challenges1:09:42 - Price of hosting world cups1:11:13 - Bouldering needs to change1:18:50 - USA travel nightmare1:28:03 - IG Q: Athletes in Germany that hate the DAV?1:32:11 - DISCORD Q: Talk through the process of an appeal1:38:58 - DISCORD Q: What do you do in ISO?1:40:55 - Words of wisdom + where to find Sagi

Miguel is a climbing physical therapist who works closely with the Method youth climbing team in the US and recently worked his first youth nationals! In this episode, we’ll learn about the danger of growth plate injuries in youth climbing athletes, we’ll get a glimpse into youth ISO, we’ll rank 3 of the most dangerous comp moves we’ve seen so far, and we’ll hear about his own journey trying to make the Peruvian national team!Guest links:Miguel’s InstagramMiguel’s websiteReference links:Thank you Mad Rock for sponsoring this episode! Use code 'notrealclimber' for 10% off your ENTIRE order, even if you're a returning customer! https://madrock.com/Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.comFollow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcastJoin the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zpJoin Patreon for a welcome gift, deleted scenes, and question priority: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcastTimestamps of discussion topicsTimestamps of discussion topics0:00 - Intro1:18 - Mad Rock Shoutout!!2:03 - Getting into PT and climbing4:09 - OTs vs PTs and insurance battles7:26 - Working with youth comp climbers9:44 - What ISO is like at youth nationals14:38 - Massage guns? And my bro-science musings16:43 - Injuries in kids vs adults19:37 - The big one: growth plate injuries in kids25:01 - When to rest vs train through an injury27:34 - General recommendations for climbing injuries32:45 - S+C to prevent ankle, shoulder injuries35:26 - Ranking 3 dangerous comp moves42:27 - When NOT to tape47:28 - What injuries do vs don't require time off the wall52:53 - Chronic injuries? Maybe you're climbing wrong...59:33 - Training for Peruvian nationals1:06:37 - DISCORD Q: What advice would you give to PT students looking to work with climbers?1:08:46 - DISCORD Q: What are the pillars of a strong climbing warmup?1:12:27 - DISCORD Q: top 2 exercises for injury prevention1:17:29 - Words of wisdom and where to find Miguel

Pete is a commentator and MC who has commentated for several world cups and North American elite competitions. In this episode, we’ll learn about the art of MCing, times he’s gotten flamed online as a commentator, and we get a lot of insight into the financials of broadcast and climbing as a sport, including the best argument I’ve heard yet for why Eurosport is a good deal. It’s clear to me in this episode that Pete is a huge proponent of growing the climbing community and his passion really shines through!Guest links:Pete’s InstagramPete’s websiteReference links:Thank you Mad Rock for sponsoring this episode! Use code 'notrealclimber' for 10% off your ENTIRE order, even if you're a returning customer! https://madrock.com/Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.comFollow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcastJoin the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zpJoin Patreon for a welcome gift, deleted scenes, and question priority: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcastTimestamps of discussion topicsTimestamps of discussion topics0:00 - Intro1:30 - Mad Rock Shoutout!!2:13 - Climbing in 1 World Cup8:15 - Deciding not to be a dirtbag climber11:13 - The art of MCing15:13 - Is MCing or commentary more fun?18:58 - The price of broadcasting21:06 - Getting yelled at for commentary27:03 - SLC world cup v6 boulders37:41 - How to trick top climbers with holds39:43 - The value of non-IFSC comps46:26 - Cost of putting together Dockmasters51:41 - Punk Rock Masters' crazy $50k cash purse59:52 - Are climbers cheapskates?!1:11:37 - IG Q: Are dynamic moves a good way to make climbing more mainstream?1:16:26 - IG Q: What do you want to be remembered for?1:17:51 - IG Q: What's your current relationship with CEC?1:24:49 - IG Q: What's your golf handicap?1:29:01 - Climbers need to be promoting climbers!1:34:55 - Closing thoughts + where to find Pete

You probably recognize Nekaia from when she recently made her first boulder world cup finals in Curitiba and her sister Sovarae podiumed at her last USA youth boulder nationals. In this episode, we get a lot of insight into their sibling dynamic as comp climbers, we’ll hear about Nekaia’s experience in Curitiba and Sovarae’s experience going through mental battles at comps, and we’ll have some fun conversation about food and Harry Potter.Guest links:Nekaia’s InstagramSovarae’s InstagramReference links:Thank you Mad Rock for sponsoring this episode! Use code 'notrealclimber' for 10% off your ENTIRE order, even if you're a returning customer! https://madrock.com/Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.comFollow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcastJoin the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zpJoin Patreon for a welcome gift, deleted scenes, and question priority: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcastTimestamps of discussion topics0:00 - Intro1:35 - Mad Rock Shoutout!!2:18 - Nekaia's new haircut!6:59 - Are they related to Annie Sanders?!7:42 - How the family got into climbing11:05 - Homeschool kids13:52 - Sovarae used to get dragged to the climbing gym21:11 - Jealously and competitiveness amongst each other30:45 - How USA team selection works33:49 - Nekaia's breakout performance in Curitiba41:25 - Nekaia's slab strength and strength weakness43:39 - Sovarae's finger strength and mental weakness49:32 - Nekaia's mental advice51:57 - World Cup traveling and eating abroad56:32 - HOT TAKE: Losing is more important than winning59:53 - HOT TAKE: People who say they don't like comp style climbing need to be shown how!1:04:12 - Swimming and Harry Potter1:10:53 - DISCORD Q: How early to start wearing in a comp shoe?1:13:30 - IG Q: Favorite style of climb?1:16:28 - IG Q: Outdoor rock projects?1:18:09 - IG Q: What effect does fan interaction have on your morale?1:22:36 - IG Q: How do the finances work?1:25:28 - IG Q: Does Sovarae always get the middle seat?1:28:39 - Closing thoughts + where to find Nekaia and Sovarae

If it’s not obvious, Carl is Erin McNeice’s dad and I’m so thrilled to get a parent perspective on the podcast. In this episode, we’ll learn about the family’s dedication and honest approach to building Erin’s climbing career, how much it cost to support the training and travel of an athlete, why he’s no longer allowed to watch her comps in person, and get adorable dad-anecdotes from the Olympics.Guest links:Carl’s InstagramReference links:Erin’s EpisodeBudapest Olympic Qualifier Stress(Buzzed) Eurosport interviewHorsin Around Quest for 8CThank you Mad Rock for sponsoring this episode! Use code 'notrealclimber' for 10% off your ENTIRE order, even if you're a returning customer! https://madrock.com/Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.comFollow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcastJoin the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zpJoin Patreon for a welcome gift, deleted scenes, and question priority: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcastTimestamps of discussion topics0:00 - Intro1:19 - Mad Rock Shoutout!!2:06 - Returning from Innsbruck5:44 - Carl's climbing and gymnastics background10:47 - Getting involved in competition climbing15:57 - When to push vs when to back off22:43 - The cost of being a comp parent28:32 - Sudden rise between the 2023-2024 season33:59 - Erin's intense training schedule38:37 - Phasing out of Erin's training routine42:53 - Not being allowed to watch the comps in person48:06 - The stress of watching your child compete54:38 - Most stressful competition to watch58:35 - The Olympics experience1:06:13 - Thoughts on dangerous setting1:16:55 - DISCORD Q: How does having a comp kid influence the family dynamic?1:20:02 - DISCORD: How to avoid good results = good vibes only1:25:31 - DISCORD Q: Do you approve shots of yourself on Erin's Youtube channel :p1:27:41 - DISCORD Q: How does it feel to be a worse climber than your child?1:30:49 - Words of wisdom

Ty has done it all: He’s been competition belaying, judging, and coaching for over 10 years, and he started the belay programs at USA climbing and the IFSC. In this episode, we’ll learn about all things belaying, get behind the scenes insight, and hear about how the scene has changed since the Olympics came into play, leading to some toxic parents.Guest links:Ty’s InstagramReference links:Noah Makaiwi InterviewReel Rock Speed Mishap @10:25Thank you Mad Rock for sponsoring this episode! Use code 'notrealclimber' for 10% off your ENTIRE order, even if you're a returning customer! https://madrock.com/Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.comFollow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcastJoin the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zpJoin Patreon for a welcome gift, deleted scenes, and question priority: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcastTimestamps of discussion topics0:00 - Intro1:20 - Mad Rock Shoutout!!2:08 - Coaching and belaying at USA youth nationals7:36 - Getting into volunteer judging/belaying11:35 - Good belaying vs bad belaying15:40 - You need to train your neck!!18:03 - Dangerous belay practices23:49 - The pressure of belaying at world cups29:29 - Athletes with specific belay requests31:54 - Athletes who are hard to belay for34:32 - Routesetting that makes belaying hard37:28 - Being a speed starter43:57 - Birmingham world games 202247:41 - HOT TAKE: Women are better belayers than men?!51:25 - Paraclimbing belaying54:28 - Manual speed climbing belaying?!57:02 - Extra considerations for para belaying59:37 - Changes in the sport - Olympics desperation1:04:40 - The toxic youth scene1:09:31 - Discord Q: Do belayers get a rundown of the route from setters?1:10:24 - DISCORD Q: Have you ever seen an athlete or coach object to a belayer?1:11:15 - DISCORD Q: Process for removing belayers mid comp?1:13:28 - Ice climbing belaying?!?1:16:03 - Where to find Ty

Antonin is the graphics operator for the IFSC! In this episode, we’ll learn about why the IFSC chooses to use local production teams instead of their own production team and the difficulties that come with that, why graphics don’t show up sometimes, and we’ll hear about his thoughts on why the bouldering format is inherently broken for watching on TV.Guest links:Antonin’s InstagramReference links:Arco Rock MasterThank you Mad Rock for sponsoring this episode! Use code 'notrealclimber' for 10% off your ENTIRE order, even if you're a returning customer! https://madrock.com/Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.comFollow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcastJoin the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zpJoin Patreon for a welcome gift, deleted scenes, and question priority: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcastTimestamps of discussion topics0:00 - Intro1:21 - Mad Rock Shoutout!!2:08 - 5 weekends of work5:23 - Best ISO Warm up zone7:07 - What he does for IFSC10:19 - The structure of IFSC broadcast13:30 - Choosing between IFSC production or local19:07 - What guidelines are given to local tv crews?23:08 - Who is in charge of cinematic shot decisions?36:43 - The difficulty showing bouldering on TV43:05 - Considering the elimination boulder format?46:33 - How to satisfy both climber and non-climbing audience49:53 - Why do graphics lag behind/not show up?54:41 - Can we have scores show on screen more often?58:02 - Why putting up a clock is so difficult1:02:39 - Traveling with a full camera set1:07:47 - Dead body in SLC?!1:12:46 - Climbing gym work1:21:05 - Q: Do you ever rewatch comps? 1:23:34 - Q: Is it legal to stream the whole event as a spectator?1:25:02 - Where to find Antonin and send further complaints :p

Erik is an accomplished speed climber from Spain! In this episode, we’ll learn about how politics destroyed climbing in Venezuela, what it was like starting over with life and training in Spain, injuries in speed climbing, and we’ll get his thoughts on other speed climbing formats like relays and yearly route changes. Hear from speed climbing’s most positive athlete!Guest links:Erik’s InstagramReference links:Climb Gurus - Clothing Brand!Old Venezuelan IFSC ProfileThank you Mad Rock for sponsoring this episode! Use code 'notrealclimber' for 10% off your ENTIRE order, even if you're a returning customer! https://madrock.com/Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.comFollow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcastJoin the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zpJoin Patreon for a welcome gift, deleted scenes, and question priority: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcastTimestamps of discussion topics0:00 - Intro1:11 - Mad Rock Shoutout!!1:59 - Training at a special facility4:12 - How he started climbing and competing11:00 - IFSC athlete page mixup14:46 - Moving from Venezuela to Spain16:07 - Why he moved away from Venezuela24:06 - Venezuela's PREVIOUS climbing dominance31:07 - Starting over in Spain36:54 - The differences in speed training40:10 - Bad speed climbing habits to break46:40 - Reflecting on OQS and not making the Olympics54:37 - Climbing goals for 2025 season57:26 - Being an older climber59:37 - Knowing when to give up1:02:27 - Speed climbing injuries?!1:07:32 - Life outside of speed climbing1:13:54 - Discord Q: What is your opinion on the latest changes in FEDME particularly the firing of David Macia from the Olympics selection for 2028?1:19:57 - Discord Q: Thoughts on relays, changing the route yearly, etc?1:22:09 - IG Q: Why did you run the Chinese top the nobody else was?1:25:30 - IG Q: Advice for people starting out speed climbing?1:26:23 - IG Q: How was training in Indonesia?1:29:52 - Words of wisdom + where to find Erik

So you all probably know who she is, but just in case you don’t, Shauna is a British climber, 2-time bouldering world cup season winner, Olympian, mom, and nowadays she’s still ticking off hard climbs outdoors. In this episode, we’ll learn about how not excited she was to compete in the Olympics, why she has an issue with the word “retirement,” and of course, the difficulty of managing climbing during and after pregnancy both socially and physically.Guest links:Shauna’s InstagramReference links:Foxy HoldsWomen’s Climbing SymposiumThank you Mad Rock for sponsoring this episode! Use code 'notrealclimber' for 10% off your ENTIRE order, even if you're a returning customer! https://madrock.com/Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.comFollow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcastJoin the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zpJoin Patreon for a welcome gift, deleted scenes, and question priority: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcastTimestamps of discussion topics0:00 - Intro1:36 - Mad Rock Shoutout!!2;23 - Running climbing clinics6:18 - Being the "calm" comp climber9:16 - The nightmarish path to Tokyo Olympics14:39 - How she started climbing + competing17:59 - Team GB then vs now19:52 - The evolving comp and social media game28:54 - IFSC Athlete's Commission Goals34:38 - DISCORD Q: Are we actually moving the needle with RED-S testing37:39 - Personal eating disorder experience43:35 - The issue with the word "retirement"48:37 - DISCORD Q: How do you mentally deal with training that used to work well but now doesn't?50:58 - The TRUTH about "having fun"53:28 - Best comp memories 58:42 - Managing climbing while pregnant1:07:32 - DISCORD Q: What was the most helpful postpartum training exercise? 1:12:05 - Thoughts on pulling a Jain Kim?1:20:44 - Current goals: Outdoors and more kids??1:25:16 - DISCORD Q: Thoughts on climbing sponsorships and Adidas sponsorship ending1:31:36 - DISCORD Q: Do you still try to prioritize being well-rounded now that you're no longer a comp climber?1:34:25 - DISCORD Q: Your most controversial climbing opinion?1:37:07 - Words of wisdom + where to find Shauna

Chaz is a blind paraclimber from team Canada and is in the B3 category, meaning he has about 10% of his sight left. What’s crazy is that he didn’t start climbing until after he lost his vision! In this episode, we’ll learn about his rocky journey losing his vision at 32 years old and struggling with alcoholism, how to lead belay blind, and hear some surprising stories about run-ins with famous climbers that he doesn’t know because he can’t “watch” climbing content.Guest links:Chaz’s InstagramReference links:Thank you Mad Rock for sponsoring this episode! Use code 'notrealclimber' for 10% off your ENTIRE order, even if you're a returning customer! https://madrock.com/Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.comFollow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcastJoin the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zpJoin Patreon for a welcome gift, deleted scenes, and question priority: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcastTimestamps of discussion topics0:00 - Intro1:58 - Mad Rock Shoutout!!2;27 - Intro/healing from surgery7:49 - Chaz's impairment and how he started climbing13:16 - Losing sight later in life26:16 - Lead belaying blind36:21 - Visually impaired climbing without a caller38:07 - First time competition climbing...getting dumped...bro code broken?!43:25 - Climbing + calling with Alannah Yip46:37 - Accidental run-ins with the most famous comp climbers52:38 - Lack of accessibility with climbing content57:17 - Feeling unsafe on the wall1:03:24 - Hiding his disability1:07:37 - 2028 Paralympics1:14:54 - Climbing blindfolded1:18:02 - Me complaining about outdoor climbing + why he loves outdoor climbing1:23:42 - Playing blind hockey1:25:59 - More of me complaining about outdoor climbing + what is real climbing1:28:57 - Blind ice climbing1:31:12 - Being an inspiration for his son1:33:47 - Blind hockey show and tell1:41:46 - IG Q: How long does it take to get in sync with your caller?1:42:54 - IG Q: Does speed climbing work well for blind people?1:49:26 - DISCORD Q: Would paraclimbers want to compete in bouldering?1:55:25 - Words of wisdom + where to find Chaz

Tijl is currently the IFSC Europe president but he is now running for the president of IFSC with elections taking place in April. In this episode, we’ll learn about how IFSC politics works, hear about the changes he wants to make within the IFSC, and get his take on some hot topic issues like national federation quotas, RED-S testing, and the NEOM games.Guest links:Tijl’s InstagramReference links:Info on elections and candidatesThank you Mad Rock for sponsoring this episode! Use code 'notrealclimber' for 10% off your ENTIRE order, even if you're a returning customer! https://madrock.com/Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.comFollow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcastJoin the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zpJoin Patreon for a welcome gift, deleted scenes, and question priority: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcastTimestamps of discussion topics0:00 - Intro1:27 - Mad Rock Shoutout!!2:16 - Climbing, coaching, and IFSC history5:50 - Coaching the Belgian team10:56 - How IFSC Presidency works 15:11 - Moving on from the Olympics18:53 - Changes Tijl wants to see in the IFSC24:43 - Increasing funding through Eurosport and routesetter education33:25 - HOT TOPIC: Big names taking a break from world cups38:38 - HOT TOPIC: New national federation quotas for world cups41:38 - HOT TOPIC: RED-S Policy Implementation48:20 - HOT TOPIC: NEOM Games50:15 - DISCORD Q: What changes do you think we'll see to the World Cup format?56:40 - DISCORD Q: Plastic vs rock preference?1:00:47 - Words of wisdom + where to find Tijl

Gregor was a boulder & lead climber from team Slovenia but he recently retired a few months ago from competitions. In this episode, we’ll get insight into the powerful Slovenian team, how he made the decision to retire and all the planning around it, what it’s like climbing with Janja, and we get to hear him geek out about holds and hold shaping.Guest links:Gregor’s InstagramReference links:Gregor’s hold brandThank you Mad Rock for sponsoring this episode! Use code 'notrealclimber' for 10% off your ENTIRE order, even if you're a returning customer! https://madrock.com/Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.comFollow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcastJoin the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zpJoin Patreon for a welcome gift, deleted scenes, and question priority: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcastTimestamps of discussion topics0:00 - Intro1:21 - Mad Rock Shoutout!!2:08 - Spray wall noob questions5:34 - Feeling competitive against his brother10:45 - Why Slovenia is so dominant at climbing17:13 - Slovenian team training and funding19:36 - Slovenian young guns to watch out for21:21 - Career highlights and traveling25:35 - Being a picky eater on the road27:57 - Competing with migraines30:55 - Making the decision to retire37:52 - How to be okay with "getting weaker"42:14 - Setting vs competing45:43 - IFSC setting aspirations47:55 - What is hold shaping52:52 - Do we really need more holds?55:40 - IG Q: what's your creative process for designing a new hold?1:02:23 - Hot takes on hold shaping and no tex1:06:30 - Discord Q: How do you see World Cup routesetting changing in the next 10 years?1:10:18 - DISCORD Q: Does hold shaping inspire your setting more or vice versa?1:11:41 - DISCORD Q: What's it like climbing with Janja?1:19:09 - Matt Groom trolling1:20:44 - Final thoughts and where to find Gregor

Anna is a boulder & lead climber from team Germany and one of the younger athletes I’ve interviewed so far as she still competed in youth world champs last year. In this episode, we’ll talk about the differences between the youth and senior circuit, the pressure of expectations after FLASHING all qualis boulders in Innsbruck, and we get some insight into team Germany.Guest links:Anna’s InstagramReference links:Thank you Mad Rock for sponsoring this episode! Use code 'notrealclimber' for 10% off your ENTIRE order, even if you're a returning customer! https://madrock.com/Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.comFollow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcastJoin the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zpJoin Patreon for a welcome gift, deleted scenes, and question priority: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcastTimestamps of discussion topics0:00 - Intro1:24 - Mad Rock Shoutout!!3:50 - Starting climbing at 3!8:18 - Competing in youth and Senior Circuit at the same time12:27 - Youth setting vs senior setting14:42 - Big performance boost in 202417:23 - Flashing all Innsbruck quails boulders22:22 - Why younger climbers dominate the WC circuit25:09 - German national team30:04 - German military sponsorship34:04 - 2025 season36:19 - Finding out if the combined format will be in LA 202839:05 - Non-climbing hobbies + sewing!42:23 - Outdoor projects43:28 - IG Q: What is the hardest part of being an athlete?49:06 - IG Q: Tips on improving arm strength50:27 - IG Q: Where can I buy the Germany down jacket?51:12 - IG Q: Non-climbing related goal52:58 - IG Q: Thoughts on the minimum BMI requirement57:29 - Outro and where to find Anna

Rodrigo is a boulder & lead climber from team Brazil. He actually started climbing fairly recently in 2018, but since then has been a 2x south american cup winner and is working his way up the ranks on the world cup circuit! In this episode, we talk about what makes training and climbing in Brazil difficult, how he feels like a “weaker” climber due to starting out as a chubbier kid, and mindset tips he uses while competing.Guest links:Rodrigo’s InstagramReference links:Brazilian Hold Brand - CruxNight Moves - Outdoor Brazilian ClimbingThank you Mad Rock for sponsoring this episode! Use code 'notrealclimber' for 10% off your ENTIRE order, even if you're a returning customer! https://madrock.com/Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.comFollow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcastJoin the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zpJoin Patreon for a welcome gift, deleted scenes, and question priority: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcastTimestamps of discussion topics0:00 - Intro1:28 - Mad Rock Shoutout!!2:29 - Starting climbing only 8 years ago!7:24 - How to mentally recover from knee injury10:38 - The importance of hold and movement exposure13:57 - Living in Australia16:38 - Competing in Prague with a knee brace21:45 - The difficulties of climbing hard in South America25:31 - Brazil climber funding30:19 - Climbing scene in Brazil36:15 - Thoughts on the upcoming 2025 Brazil WC39:27 - Mindset and overcoming being a "weaker" climber48:43 - Once a fat kid, always a fat kid51:47 - Discord Q: Top 3 slab tips56:13 - Discord Q: Thoughts on limiting country participation? Does it actually help smaller nations?1:02:20 - Discord Q: Outdoor climbing projects in Brazil?1:05:19 - S/O to South American climbers and where to find Rodrigo

Niklas Wiechmann and Jake Mason are routesetters from "Another Setting Podcast" but you may already be familiar with them because Niki was my FIRST ever podcast guest and you are probably familiar with Jake from the Bouldering Bobats. In this episode, we absolutely TRASH US gym hold selection and setting, they give their opinions on worldwide setting styles, comp formats, and moves to LEAVE BEHIND in 2024, and we discuss freelance vs world cup routesetter pay.Guest links:“Another Setting Podcast”Niki’s YoutubeJake’s YoutubeNiki’s InstagramJake’s InstagramReference links:The hold that doesn’t need to existRoutesetting workshops through Frankenjura AcademyDockmasters 2025 - JanuaryStudiobloc masters 2025 - MarchQuarrymanThank you Mad Rock for sponsoring this episode! Use code 'notrealclimber' for 10% off your ENTIRE order, even if you're a returning customer! https://madrock.com/Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.comFollow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcastJoin the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zpJoin Patreon for a welcome gift, deleted scenes, and question priority: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcastTimestamps of discussion topics0:00 - Intro1:33 - Mad Rock Shoutout!!2:29 - Stretching!5:36 - The bromance + getting into setting10:23 - Settings trends in each country15:10 - TRASHING hold selection in US gyms24:54 - Lack of style in world cups32:26 - Setting for Brawl on the Wall42:28 - Fun experimental comp formats48:08 - Niki's setting future + Frankenjura academy52:58 - How will setting innovate?57:12 - STOP setting these moves and START setting these!1:01:41 - World Cup setter dreams or freelancing + pay1:09:04 - Another Setting Podcast1:11:57 - Discord Q: Why is it rare to find footwork-intensive climbs in gyms?1:14:53 - Discord Q: How important is hold selection in order to force a move?1:19:27 - Discord Q: What is the "jug ladder" of parkour routes?1:23:47 - Words of widsom + Where to find Niki and Jake