Hairspring

This is the story of how an unlikely ruffian from Marseille came to be regarded as the genius watchmaker of a generation. This week, Erik & Max tell the story of François-Paul Journe from expulsion to working with Asprey and sketching on napkins. While the story dominates two-thirds of the episode, the final third is dedicated to the watches themselves including a framework for how to separate generations of the brass pieces. This episode is an introduction to one of the most polarizing, eccentric, and relevant watchmakers working today (even if some of this history may have been embellished over time).  Links Mentioned:Kiran Shekar’s Book:https://forums.timezone.com/index.php?t=tree&goto=7012514&rid=12189Pierre Halimi Interview:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Bm1DAbRK3vAHSNY Talk:https://youtu.be/FqLEP3xNb3U?si=JQC8V0QsvcbWEbbMACM Guide:https://www.acollectedman.com/blogs/journal/the-story-of-early-f-p-journePlanetary Clock for Asprey:https://img.thehourglass.com/tachyon/2024/12/FP-Journe-Savoir-Faire-Feature-Planetarium-Clock.jpgFP Journe Breguet Sympathique Clock:https://www.phillips.com/detail/f.p.-journe-x-tha-for-breguet/216337https://watchesbysjx.com/2025/05/fp-journe-breguet-sympathique-no-1.htmlThe Early Tourbillon Which Sold at 8.36M:https://www.phillips.com/detail/fp-journe/205675?fromSearch=fp%20journe%20tourbillonInitial Sketches of the Collection (Credit to Kiran Shekar’s Above Book):https://imgur.com/a/Toiw3XLBasel 99 With the Swine Quote:https://thejourneguy.com/the-first-question-basel-1999/‘Resonnance’ Prototype:https://monochrome-watches.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/09/FP-Journe-Chronometre-a-Resonance-prototype-2.jpg——Tourbillon:Souscription Number 1:https://www.phillips.com/detail/fp-journe/CH080221/138Second Generation:https://www.phillips.com/detail/fp-journe/189240Ruthenium:https://hairspring.com/collections/exclusives/products/tourbillon-remontoir-ruthenium-dial-platinumACM’s Helpful Table for Generations:https://www.acollectedman.com/cdn/shop/files/Screenshot_2021-01-28_at_11.21.47_4438df7f-939e-4bbc-bc49-50b69b162777_1728x.png—— Resonance:Pre-Production:https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2022/important-watches-4/resonance-pre-production-a-platinum-dual-time-zoneSouscription Resonance:https://watchesbysjx.com/2020/05/fp-journe-souscription-tourbillon-resonance-phillips-geneva.html4th Generation:https://hairspring.com/collections/exclusives/products/chronometre-a-resonance-brass-movement-platinumACM’s Helpful Table of Generations:https://www.acollectedman.com/cdn/shop/files/A_Collectors_Guide_early_brass_Francois_Paul_Journe_Production_Numbers_A_Collected_Man_London2_2048x2048_50855f45-0381-4ba0-b9b4-dac59dedfff9_1728x.pngParking Meter Resonance:https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/mop-parking-meter-fp-journe-chronometre-a-resonance—— Octa Collection (RdM):RdM Prototype:https://www.phillips.com/detail/fp-journe/NY080119/73Straight Côtes de Genève:https://thejourneguy.com/the-octa-straight-cotes-de-geneve/Fantastic Guide to the Octa Chronographe:https://watch4moi.com/f-p-journe-octa-chronographe/Calendrier:https://hairspring.com/products/octa-calendrier-pink-gold——George Daniels CS Gift:https://www.rescapement.com/blog/how-did-i-miss-that-the-chronometre-souverain-fp-journe-gifted-to-george-daniels-sold-at-auction-last-yearOsama Sendi Quote Source:https://hairspring.com/blogs/journal/market-insights-fp-journe-over-the-last-decadeOnly Wrist:RO QP MoP:https://www.phillips.com/detail/audemars-piguet/162921AP QP MoP:https://hairspring.com/products/25657or-quantieme-perpetuel-mother-of-pearl-dial-pink-gold5554ST:https://www.phillips.com/detail/audemars-piguet/166220Zeitwerk Striking Time:https://langepedia.com/a-lange-sohne-zeitwerk/zeitwerk-striking-time/JLC Parking Meter:https://www.jaeger-lecoultre.com/us-en/watches/collectibles/qve85801

Erik & Max return to answer your queries in a a wide-ranging episode that hits on everything from 2 watch modern Rolex collection picks, vintage value under 20K, roasting the 5159, figuring out the best QPs ever, the best watches ever sold that you never saw, how to manage databases, and valuing extremely rare watches. Plus and Only Wrist for a SEAL turned doctor. Links Mentioned:Modern 2 Watch Rolex Collection:Max:https://www.europeanwatch.com/blog/rolex-datejust-126234-palm-motif-dial-reviewhttps://www.hodinkee.com/articles/southpaw-rolex-the-left-handed-gmt-gets-it-right(Erik Misspoke here, Tiger Iron not Tiger Eye)Erik:https://watchesbysjx.com/2025/04/rolex-gmt-master-ii-126729vtnr-26715chnr.html (Tiger Iron)https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/just-because-two-rolex-le-mans-daytonaWatches Others Love That We Don’t Care About:https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-new-rolex-daytona (Max is Wrong here, obviously) https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/kurono-tokyo-watch-release-solve-flipping-problem (Both Agree)20K Value:https://www.phillips.com/detail/omega/119795 (Crazy Example, Normal Dials Under 20K)https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/tropical-dial-a384-zenith-el-primero-2https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/breguet-dial-44920-movado-celestografhttps://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/14364-omega-seamaster-de-ville-calibre-321https://hairspring.com/products/snow-white-multichron-12-steelhttps://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/01-0040-418-zenith-el-primero-espada-sub-sea-moonphasehttps://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/mk5-pumpkin-1675-rolex-gmt-masterhttps://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/2998-3-lollipop-omega-speedmaster-2Journe Market Insight:https://hairspring.com/blogs/journal/market-insights-fp-journe-over-the-last-decade5159G:https://collectability.com/product/patek-philippe-perpetual-retrograde-calendar-ref-5159g-001/Best QP:https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/vintage-audemars-piguet-reference-5516-perpetual-calendarhttps://www.phillips.com/detail/audemars-piguet/166220https://hairspring.com/products/3970ep-second-series-perpetual-calendar-chronograph-platinum_42658https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/in-depth-patek-philippe-reference-2497-part-1Best Watches You Haven’t Seen:https://hairspring.com/products/3941j-perpetual-calendar-dore-dial-early-second-series-yellow-gold (Not Max’s Watch, but Same Thing)https://hairspring.com/products/25668pt-perpetual-calendar-skeleton-platinumhttps://langepedia.com/patek-philippe-5004acier-the-story-of-a-legend/ (Not Our Example, but Same Thing)https://hairspring.com/products/3970ep-second-series-perpetual-calendar-chronograph-platinum_42658Sub Case Note: Erik Misspoke 6238, Obviously Meant 6538Only Wrist:https://www.acollectedman.com/products/historiques-cornes-de-vache-1955-chronograph-for-hodinkee-steelhttps://www.phillips.com/detail/longines/87664https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/gilt-dial-pcg-1675-rolex-gmt-master

This week, Erik X Max talk the worst collaborations in watches. While a unique idea in 2010, collaborations seem more common than a single brand’s own work these days. While some are brilliant, this episode is a discourse in where it can go wrong and where it’s heading. There are some you might not expect in here, as well as the obvious, all for their own uniquely unfortunate reasons. Plus, one of the more challenging Only Wrists faced. Links Mentioned:Harry Winston FP Journe Opus 1:https://www.phillips.com/detail/harry-winston-and-fp-journe/151612Tiffany Nautilus:https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/patek-philippe-nautilus-5711-tiffany-blue-phillips-new-york-2021https://www.phillips.com/detail/patek-philippe/NY080121/1TChronograph 911 GT3 (10Kish retail at launch, Erik here, misspoke):https://shop.porsche.com/us/en-US/porsche-design-timepieces-exclusive-vehicle-watches-chronograph-911-gt3Porsche Design Shisha 2.1:https://shop.porsche.com/us/en-US/p/shisha-21-P-P3800-60/4046901595906Low Hanging Fruit:https://www.swatch.com/en-us/bioceramic-scuba-fifty-fathoms.htmlSinn Bape EZM1:https://www.shucktheoyster.com/portfolio/sinn-camou-ezm1-bape-chronograph-503-2223-full-set-rare/Hublot Nespresso:https://www.nespresso.com/ch/en/hublotMoser Studio Underdog (Shouldn’t have said no one about Studio Underdog, meant most):https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/a-fresh-passion-fruit-collab-from-h-moser-and-studio-underd0gAP Alyx:https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/an-official-partnership-between-audemars-piguet-and-1017-alyx-9sm-designer-matthew-williams-just-lauAP Travis Scott:https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/audemars-piguets-collaboration-with-rapper-and-mogul-travis-scottJay-Z iPod:https://wristcheck.com/us/discover/editor's-pick/jay-z-ap-and-a-very-special-platinum-royal-oak-offshoreAP Arnold:https://apchronicles.audemarspiguet.com/en/model/royal-oak-offshore-25770JM QP:https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/hands-on-john-mayer-audemars-piguet-royal-oakRD2 Mention:https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/audemars-piguet-rd2-royal-oak-perpetual-calendar-ultra-thin-hands-onKAWs:https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/intro-audemars-piguet-x-kaws-royal-oak-concept-tourbillon-companionMarvel:https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/audemars-piguet-black-panther-watch-live-pics-pricingLVMH Rexhep:https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/louis-vuitton-rexhep-rexhepi-lvrr01-chronographe-a-sonnerieLVMH Voutilainen:https://watchesbysjx.com/2025/03/hands-on-louis-vuitton-x-voutilainen-lvkv-02-gmr-6.htmlH Travel Clock:https://loupethis.com/auctions/hodinkee-eight-day-travel-clockIWC Top Gun:https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/a-week-on-the-wrist-the-iwc-top-gun-miramar-chronographRomain Jerome:https://watchesbysjx.com/2016/08/hands-on-with-the-rj-romain-jerome-super-mario-bros.htmlOnly Wrist:https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-new-rolex-daytonahttps://hairspring.com/products/3705-fliegerchronograph-ceramichttps://hummerwatches.nethttps://www.fpjourne.com/en/collection/classique-collection/ffchttps://hairspring.com/products/ur-100v-p-02-titanium-steel

Accomplished singer, songwriter, and producer James Blake joins the podcast for truly legendary discussion of watches, music, their intersection, and a veritable feast of unrelated topics. Conversation includes the role of atrophy in attraction to vintage, what watches he’d gift various well-known musicians, how ‘perfect’ finishing may be too perfect today, the watch musician Dave gifted him, and far more.Links Mentioned:15500ST:https://www.audemarspiguet.com/com/en/watch-collection/royal-oak/15500ST.OO.1220ST.01.htmlBerneron:https://hairspring.com/products/mirage-sienna-yellow-goldCollection Building:Bowie:https://www.gq-magazine.co.uk/fashion/article/david-bowie-longines-agassiz-watchhttps://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/fp-journe-vagabondage-iii-in-platinumhttps://www.hodinkee.com/articles/karl-lagerfeld-royal-oak-phillips-auction-2022Lennon:https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-wild-mostly-complete-story-of-john-lennons-lost-patek-philippe-2499https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/hands-on-lange-datograph-perpetual-tourbillon-honeygold-lumenhttps://hairspring.com/products/5004r-perpetual-calendar-split-seconds-chronograph-pink-goldhttps://hairspring.com/products/2915-2-speedmaster-steelJames Hetfield:https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/6541-rolex-milgausshttps://mrwatchley.com/products/breguet-empire-from-1973-with-extract-from-archivehttps://www.hodinkee.com/articles/rolex-explorer-14270-everything-you-need-to-knowEric Clapton:https://www.windvintage.com/abercrombie-fitch-reference-2447sf-unpolishedhttps://www.screwdowncrown.com/p/the-rolex-albino-daytonahttps://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-6394633https://www.rolexmagazine.com/2009/12/bb-king-greatest-blues-guitarist-in.html#gsc.tab=0John Mayer:https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/hands-on-john-mayer-audemars-piguet-royal-oakhttps://www.europastar.com/the-watch-files/independent-watchmakers/1004114281-raul-pages-when-the-tortoise-becomes-a-hare.htmlhttps://apchronicles.audemarspiguet.com/en/model/4100Daft Punk:https://monochrome-watches.com/review-otsuka-lotec-7-5-jumping-hour-watch-indepdenent-watchmaking-japan-camera-lens-inspired-availability-price/https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/186-0013-omega-equinoxe-reversohttps://hairspring.com/products/25730st-royal-oak-dual-time-steelSwift:https://hairspring.com/products/elegante-40-factory-12-rows-of-diamonds-titalythttps://www.phillips.com/detail/patek-philippe/153613https://wristcheck.com/us/discover/marketcheck/rise-of-the-rolex-daytona-john-mayerDave:https://laurentferrier.ch/products/classic-traveller-globe-night-bluehttps://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/romain-gauthier-logical-one-titaniumhttps://mrwatchley.com/products/chopard-l-u-c-1860-yellow-gold3 Questions:https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-bulgari-octo-finissimo-automatic-blasted-goldhttps://quillandpad.com/2022/12/06/bulgari-by-gerald-genta-octo-quadri-retro-chronograph-from-2011-embodying-the-past-and-a-possible-future-of-a-once-imperious-haute-horlogerie-leader/https://laurentferrier.ch/products/classic-tourbillon-black-onyxhttps://www.alange-soehne.com/mo-en/timepieces/richard-lange/richard-lange-pour-le-merite/richard-lange-pour-le-merite-in-750-white-gold-260-028https://apchronicles.audemarspiguet.com/en/model/14802-royal-oak-jubileehttps://www.matthewbaininc.com/product-page/cartier-tank-reverso-dual-time-zone-1970-shttps://www.the1916company.com/blog/a-revolution-in-design-the-de-bethune-dbs.htmlhttps://monochrome-watches.com/introducing-de-bethune-dbd-evergreen-digitale-in-line-calendar-jumping-hour-specs-price/Only Wrist:https://www.watchprosite.com/rolex/rolex-1665-sea-dweller-mk1-patent-pending-twins-/732.964148.6706998/https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/burgundy-dial-25720pt-audemars-piguet-star-wheel-2https://hairspring.com/products/140-021-zeitwerk-first-generation-yellow-goldhttps://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/tritium-dial-5065j-patek-philippe-aquanaut

Have you ever what a Musketeer Dial is? Does Millerighe sound more like a sneeze than a pusher to you? What does PPDRSD stand for, are cherry Daytonas a real thing, and is PCG the same as Cornino? This and all the other terms you see frequently in vintage sports Rolex described as quickly as possible in this week’s episode. It’s that simple. Links Mentioned:https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/exclusive-the-pinnacle-of-holy-grails-a-patek-1518-in-steel-is-coming-to-auction-in-novemberDaytona:Lemon:https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/lemon-paul-newman-6264-rolex-daytona-2JPS:https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/jps-paul-newman-6239-rolex-daytonaOyster Sotto / RCO:https://www.phillips.com/detail/rolex/156464Musketeer Dial:https://italianwatchspotter.com/i-quadranti-moschettieri-nei-daytona-paul-newman/?lang=enOyster Split:https://www.41watch.com/en/journal/buyers-guides/rolex-oyster-split-the-legendary-gold-daytona-6263-6265Floating Big Red:https://www.windvintage.com/rolex-floating-big-red-daytona-ref-6263Solo Dial:https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/understanding-the-rolex-daytona-6240‘Blue’ Daytona:https://rarebirds.de/product/rolex-6239-blue-daytona/‘Cherry’ Daytona:https://www.windvintage.com/rolex-cherry-red-daytona-reference-6239-w-extra-braceletDouble Swiss:https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2023/important-watches-part-i/le-mans-daytona-double-swiss-underline-referenceMillerighe / P301 / P302:https://www.41watch.com/en/journal/historical-reviews-of-iconic-watches/retrospective-complete-de-la-rolex-daytonaFloating Cosmograph:https://hairspring.com/collections/exclusives/products/16528-daytona-floating-cosmograph-gold-dial-yellow-gold4-Liner:https://bulangandsons.com/products/rolex-daytona-steel-16520-white-mk2-4-liner-dial-w-626Patrizzi:https://www.phillips.com/detail/rolex/178794Inverted 6:https://www.phillips.com/detail/rolex/CH080220/168APH:https://www.phillips.com/detail/rolex/196430?Crown Guard Evolution:https://www.aircooltime.com/p/rolex-submariner-gilt-era-crown-guardEagle Beak vs Cornino?:https://le-monde-edmond.com/eagle-beak-vs-cornino/Submariner:Red Depth:https://www.phillips.com/detail/rolex/191745Underline:https://www.phillips.com/detail/rolex/148173Neat Font:https://www.windvintage.com/blog/collectors-guide-rolex-submariner-reference-5512Exclamation:https://www.phillips.com/detail/rolex/116116Kissing 4 / Long 5:https://www.watchprosite.com/rolex/rolex-fat-font-inserts-explored-mk1-through-mk3/732.849983.5769208/Bart Simpson:https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/bart-simpson-5512-rolex-submarinerSea-Dweller:https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/reference-points-rolex-sea-dwellerRail Dial:https://hairspring.com/products/1665-great-white-sea-dweller-steelPP DRSD:https://www.drsd.com/watch-info/double-red-seadweller/patent-pending-drsd.htmlGMT-Master:Concorde:https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/concorde-1675-rolex-gmt-masterFuchsia:https://www.strictlyvintagewatches.com/rolex-fuchsia-bezel-gmt-master-reference-1675Nipple Dial:https://gmtmaster1675.com/mark-1-brown/Radial Dial:https://gmtmaster1675.com/mark-3/Explorer:Long Hand:https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/rolex-explorer-reference-pointsSpace-Dweller:https://www.phillips.com/detail/rolex/192943Honeycomb:https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/honeycomb-dial-6350-rolex-explorerFrog Foot:https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/frog-foot-dial-1016-rolex-explorer1655:Straight Hand:https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/mk1-straight-hand-1655-rolex-explorer-iiAlbino:https://10pastten.com/watch/rolex-explorer-ii-albino-freccione/16550 Cream:https://hairspring.com/products/16550-cream-panna-dial-explorer-ii-steelOnly Wrist:https://le-monde-edmond.com/rolex-1831-the-king-of-day-dates/https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/5100-rolex-texano

This week is more automotive than most, as Erik & Max are joined by the esteemed automotive journalist Henry Catchpole. Henry is an immensely talented story-teller and also happens to adore watches. This episode spans Henry’s path as an enthusiast, a family Vacheron, Enicar, The Bugatti Tourbillon, if cars are having their own Quartz Crisis now, the car/watch enthusiast link, the 6541 motorsport connection, and what Michael Fassbender should really be wearing. This one was an honor and a delight to record, all thanks to Henry. Links Mentioned:Henry’s First Public Watch Post:https://www.instagram.com/p/DM0exPmvcZM/?img_index=1Henry’s Family VC 4072:https://flic.kr/p/2ro17ypTony’s Guide to 4072 Generally (Most of These Are Later Than Henry’s):https://www.rescapement.com/blog/for-your-reference-vacheron-constantin-reference-4072-dial-variantsJim Clark Sherpa Graph:https://enicar101.com/2021/11/19/the-correct-reference-of-jim-clarks-sherpa-graph/Stirling Moss Sherpa Graph:https://enicar101.com/2020/07/29/stirling-moss-and-his-stirling-moss/Another Great Enicar For Fun:https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/2303-enicar-garnixOmega Chrono-Quartz / Albatross / Montreal (It Has Many Nicknames):https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/an-exceptional-omega-chrono-quartz-montrealHenry’s Bugatti Tourbillon Walk-Around Where Watches Serve As Analogy:https://youtu.be/PClxnRzIE4g?si=rFX03EgGft2GtFowPenske 963 RSP:https://youtu.be/Q7ZFUe9m16s?si=z0FyMSgeptycLUMDThe Databank:https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/yes-you-can-still-buy-a-casio-calculator-watchMcMurtry Spéirling:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tHIbvYWhaxA&t=802sTAG F1 Revival:https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/tag-heuers-revival-of-the-formula-1Rice Krispies ‘Snap Crackle Pop’ Watch:https://flic.kr/p/2ro1jstOrange Racing 145.022-69:https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/orange-racing-dial-145-022-69-omega-speedmasterThree Guest Questions:Wakmann:https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/value-proposition-71-1309-70-wakmann-triple-calendar-chronographHeuer 1614 Champion:https://onlineonly.christies.com/s/christies-watches-online-time-spring/heuer-champion-chronograph-ref-1614-75/53880(Erik here, Misspoke, Champion T not Championship)LeJour:https://www.fratellowatches.com/tbt-lejour-pvd-chronograph-value-still-exists/RW Smith:https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/piece-unique-roger-w-smith-series-iArken Alterum:https://arken.uk/watches/p/arkenalterum1122VC Everest:https://hairspring.com/products/7910v-everest-overseas-dual-time-titaniumScurfa:https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/episode-90-a-chat-with-paul-scurfield-of-scurfa-watches6541:https://www.phillips.com/detail/rolex/181678885103/01 ‘Evil Nina’:https://hairspring.com/products/885103-01-evil-nina-compax-steelJochen Rindt:https://www.dive-bomb.com/article/remembering-jochen-rindt-f1-s-only-posthumous-champion1815 Up/Down:https://hairspring.com/products/221-027-1815-up-down-first-generation-white-gold139.035 Grand Lange 1 Moon Phase Lumen:https://hairspring.com/collections/exclusives/products/139-035-grand-lange-1Only Wrist:LF Traveller:https://monochrome-watches.com/introducing-laurent-ferrier-classic-traveller-series-atelier-magnetic-green-hands-on-specs-price/2447NS:https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2024/important-watches-2/reference-2447ns-carrera-reverse-panda-a-stainles130 Monopusher:https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/patek-philippe-reference-130-mono-pusher-chronograph-in-steel-sells-for-5-million-and-other-such-stoHenry’s Instagram and Channel:https://www.instagram.com/henrycatchpole/https://www.youtube.com/@Hagerty/videos

What’s after neo-vintage yet before contemporary watches? Quite a lot as it turns out. Erik & Max set themselves the challenge of uncovering some of the great references that might go over looked, as they predate watch media as we know it. And it’s not all high-flying independents. Picks range from multiple examples under 10K (some under 5K, even) all the way to, yes, the crazy ones. Regardless, and all across the spectrum, there are some magnificent watches from this time that perhaps are still a touch overlooked. Plus, an only wrist for a marine biologist in a salmon hatchery. Links Mentioned:Legend Diver:https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-longines-legend-diverOriginal ref. 7150 Legend Diver:https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/highly-tropical-longines-legend-diver-71503575.20 Blued Speedy Moonphase:https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/3575-20-omega-speedmaster-moonphaseReissued Alaska ‘Space Coconut’:https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/omega-speedmaster-alaska-projectActual Original Alaska II Prototype:https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/145-022-alaska-ii-prototype-omega-speedmasterPiaget 15933:https://hairspring.com/products/15933-onyx-skeletonized-chronograph-yellow-gold5101:https://quillandpad.com/2021/12/24/patek-philippe-reference-5101-magnum-opus-with-concealed-ten-day-tourbillon/Philippe Stern’s Own Observatory Tourbillon 3699:https://hairspring.com/blogs/journal/a-brief-guide-to-the-patek-philippe-1563-split-seconds-and-3699-observatory-tourbillonThe Lapis and Onyx Subs:https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/lapis-dial-16618-rolex-submarinerhttps://www.instagram.com/p/BTMf2kkhqEA/First Gen Zeitwerk Lumen (anchor bridge in second photo):https://hairspring.com/products/140-035-zeitwerk-lumen-phantom-platinumContemporary Bridge (also second photo):https://hairspring.com/products/148-038-zeitwerk-date-white-gold6159G, Patek’s Sapphire Dial:https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/introducing-patek-philippe-6159g101.050:https://watchesbysjx.com/2016/03/a-detailed-look-at-the-ultra-rare-lange-1-honey-gold.html403.025X ‘Pisa’ Dato:https://www.phillips.com/detail/a-lange-sohne/CH080223/138VC 30010:https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-6450389VC 30030:https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2020/important-watches-9/reference-30030-a-pink-gold-skeletonized-minuteVC 30020:https://www.phillips.com/article/137956122/an-underrated-complicated-90s-icon-the-vacheron-constantin-ref-3002025810OR:https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/25810or-audemars-piguet-royal-oak-perpetual-calendar-120th-anniversary5049P:https://www.watchprosite.com/patek-philippe/latest-addition--ref-5049p/11.1467591.13835786/https://www.sothebys.com/en/auctions/ecatalogue/2019/watches-l19070/lot.71.html5139P:https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-63781993670A:https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/introducing-the-patek-philippe-3670a-a-new-chronograph-in-sthttps://www.phillips.com/detail/patek-philippe/1979025959R:https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/5959r-patek-philippe-split-seconds-monopusher(Erik here, I misspoke when I said 5970 as many people thinking first in-house chronograph movement, meant to say 5170)5950A:https://www.phillips.com/detail/patek-philippe/197334DB15:https://www.phillips.com/detail/de-bethune/158064T10:https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/hands-on-with-the-fp-journe-t-10-anniversary-tourbillonHolland & Holland CS:https://www.acollectedman.com/products/fpjourne-chronometre-holland-hollandFP Journe’s Own Post Warning About Wall Clocks:https://www.instagram.com/p/DGflvsFP7_W/Only Wrist:16610:https://www.41watch.com/en/journal/buyers-guides/the-rolex-submariner-kermit-exploring-the-16610lv-and-its-variations1680:https://hairspring.com/products/1680-submariner-steel16660 Triple Six:https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/mk2-matte-16660-rolex-sea-dweller5066A:https://hairspring.com/products/5066a-aquanaut-japan-blue-limited-edition-steel

Erik & Max build two-watch collections twice with a generous budget, once with independents and once with large brands. This, in order to help crystalize the strengths and weaknesses of each type of watch. Conversation ranges from the Dubail to the Vingt-8 with everything in-between. Plus, an Only Wrist for a gentleman running construction in Austin, looking for a watch to give his son. Links Mentioned:Independent-ish Collecting:Closed Back:https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/closed-caseback-small-mig-101-002-a-lange-sohne-lange-1Dubail:https://onlineonly.christies.com/s/watches-online-dubai-edit/a-lange-sohne-lange-1-dubail-fine-limited-edition-gold-wristwatch-112/181720Onyx:https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/black-onyx-and-pink-gold-these-are-the-30th-anniversary-lange-1s-from-a-lange-and-sohneBreguet 3230:https://monochrome-watches.com/the-collectors-corner-the-breguet-chronograph-3230-and-3237-daniel-roth/Independent Collecting:LM101:https://hairspring.com/products/lm101-for-hodinkee-steel(Correction from Max, 40mm not 38)Kari:https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/voutilainen-vingt-8https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/brown-guilloche-dial-voutilainen-observatoireLarge Brand Collecting:All About Datograph QP:https://hairspring.com/products/5270r-perpetual-calendar-chronograph-pink-goldhttps://langepedia.com/a-lange-sohne-datograph-guide/datograph-perpetual/YM Ti:https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/rolex-made-a-wearable-titanium-watch-how-are-people-not-freaking-out14802ST:https://apchronicles.audemarspiguet.com/en/model/14802-royal-oak-jubileeRarely Seen Tuscan 14802PT:https://www.phillips.com/detail/audemars-piguet/CH080222/10Bonus YK 14802ST:https://www.phillips.com/detail/audemars-piguet/CH080222/59Everest Dual Time:https://hairspring.com/products/7910v-everest-overseas-dual-time-titaniumThe Most Literal Breguets Ever:https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/introducing-breguet-type-xx-chronographe-2075bhOnly Wrist:14060:https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2019/watches-online-6/rolex-ref-14060-submariner-a-stainless-steel126509:https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/126509-rolex-cosmograph-daytona‘Terra Brown’ Saxonia:https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/terra-brown-380-044-a-lange-sohne-saxonia-automatikYM Ti:https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/rolex-made-a-wearable-titanium-watch-how-are-people-not-freaking-out

Some will tell you that Audemars Piguet have become the Royal Oak company. But why is this sole model so damn successful? How did one watch come to invent and subsequently take over a market segment? What are the models worth paying attention to and how are collections structured? This is the story of the Royal Oak, from two years before the 5402’s release straight through to ceramics and RD#2. Links Mentioned:AP Chronicle Early Years Story and Stats:https://apchronicles.audemarspiguet.com/en/article/birth-of-an-iconIntegrated 2499:https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/jay-z-patek-24995182 and 5179:https://www.instagram.com/p/CzZbEHhJWSJ/https://apchronicles.audemarspiguet.com/en/asset/7_5Genta’s First Sketch:https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2022/gerald-genta-icon-of-time-3/original-prototype-design-of-the-audemars-piguetTapisserie and How It’s Made:https://apchronicles.audemarspiguet.com/en/article/guillochage-tapisserieSome Ads:https://www.adpatina.com/products/1974-audemars-piguet-royal-oak-ref-5402-steel-at-price-of-gold-advertisementA Series 5402 ‘AP Down’:https://www.phillips.com/detail/audemars-piguet/CH080222/8D Series 5402 ‘AP Up’:https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2022/important-watches-part-i/d-series-jumbo-royal-oak-ref-5402st-stainless5402BC:https://www.phillips.com/detail/audemars-piguet/CH080116/198Midsized Evolution Guide:https://www.watchbrotherslondon.com/articles/reference-talk-how-to-identify-royal-oak-ref-4100-14332-14486-14700-1479014790 Guide:https://www.acollectedman.com/blogs/journal/collectors-guide-audemars-piguet-1479014802 Jumbo Royal Oak ‘Jubilee’:https://apchronicles.audemarspiguet.com/en/model/14802-royal-oak-jubilee25572 ‘The Owl’:https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/the-owl-25572ba-audemars-piguet-royal-oak-day-date5548:https://www.acollectedman.com/products/audemars-piguet-quantieme-perpetuel-5548-yellow-gold-1Early Royal Oak QP History:https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/early-audemars-piguet-royal-oak-perpetual-calendar-in-depthhttps://apchronicles.audemarspiguet.com/en/article/Royal-Oak-Calendar-watches-1983-1996https://www.adpatina.com/products/1994-audemars-piguet-royal-oak-perpetual-calendar-advertisementSpecial Dials in the RO QP:https://hairspring.com/products/25820pt-tuscan-dial-royal-oak-quantieme-perpetuel-platinumhttps://www.phillips.com/detail/audemars-piguet/CH080222/17https://apchronicles.audemarspiguet.com/en/model/royal-oak-25636MoP Dual Time:https://www.phillips.com/detail/audemars-piguet/CH080222/78The Start of the Offshore:https://apchronicles.audemarspiguet.com/en/article/birth-of-the-offshore‘The Beast’:https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/a-very-tropical-early-offshore-25721st-the-beastKasparov:https://hairspring.com/products/25860st-tropical-dial-kasparov-royal-oak-chronograph-steel15002:https://www.phillips.com/detail/audemars-piguet/CH080222/8215202 Generational Differences:https://www.watchprosite.com/audemars-piguet/first-gen-15202-royal-oak-jumbo/3.1554086.15251221/16202:https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-audemars-piguet-royal-oak-reference-16202-jumbo56175TT:https://www.tickingtimehomme.com/about/1990s-audemars-piguet-royal-oak-championship25829TR:https://www.gioielleriabonanno.it/en/audemars-piguet-il-tantalio-conquista-il-royal-oak-perpetual-calendar-ref-25829tr/Frosted Gold:https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/audemars-piguet-royal-oak-frosted-gold-hands-onRD#2:https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/audemars-piguet-rd2-royal-oak-perpetual-calendar-ultra-thin-hands-onhttps://revolutionwatch.com/walking-the-ultra-thin-line-the-audemars-piguet-rd2/Only Wrist:https://www.instagram.com/p/DL4dfvBT0fD/https://hairspring.com/products/ur-100v-p-02-titanium-steel(The only Urwerk calendar is a pocket watch, it turns out)https://www.urwerk.com/collections/historical-pieces/ur-1001

Erik & Max return to answer your queries in a a wide-ranging episode that hits on everything from guilty pleasures to asking if the independent space is too crowded. Plus, what is the best QP ever made? Why isn’t shaped Patek popular? What’s the next hot indie? This and much more, plus a great question from Max’s mom. Links Mentioned:Lange Error:https://youtu.be/HGlz937qkuw?si=y_-wOUQp2lH8SDtD&t=4206Guilty Pleasures:https://thekeystone.com/products/rolex-yellow-gold-rainbow-daytona-ref-116598https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/hands-on-iwc-pilots-watch-41-automatic-top-gun-lake-tahoehttps://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-audemars-piguet-royal-oak-concept-laptimer-michael-schumacherhttps://www.watchprosite.com/audemars-piguet/review-the-new-ap-royal-oak-laptimer-michael-shumacher/3.997188.7008998/Breguet Magnetic Pivots:https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-breguet-classique-chronometrie-7727Self-Taught Independents:https://www.phillips.com/article/123122036/hajime-asaoka-auction-tourbillon-tsunamihttps://monochrome-watches.com/interview-independent-watchmaker-chinese-china-logan-kuan-rao-orca-iceberg-wuwei-equal-push-escapement/https://www.gq.com/story/jn-shapiro-made-in-america-watchLapis Breguet LF:https://www.instagram.com/p/Ct5XYjARV49/Jade FPJ:https://www.phillips.com/detail/fp-journe/NY080222/10Best QP Bar None Conversation:https://www.phillips.com/detail/fp-journe/NY080222/10https://www.phillips.com/detail/patek-philippe/CH080221/122https://hairspring.com/collections/exclusives/products/3941j-perpetual-calendar-dore-dial-early-second-series-yellow-goldhttps://hairspring.com/products/43032-perpetual-calendar-skeleton-platinumhttps://www.hodinkee.com/articles/vintage-audemars-piguet-reference-5516-perpetual-calendarShaped Patek Vs Cartier:https://collectability.com/learn/gilbert-albert-the-genius-designer-who-changed-the-face-of-watchmaking/https://www.gq.com/gallery/best-watches-2023-golden-globeshttps://www.phillips.com/detail/patek-philippe/CH080123/21Under-Represented Independents:https://hairspring.com/blogs/journal/a-collector-s-guide-to-laurent-ferrierhttps://www.hodinkee.com/articles/hands-on-theo-auffret-tourbillonhttps://hairspring.com/collections/exclusives/products/double-balancier-convexe-s2-titaniumhttps://hairspring.com/collections/exclusives/products/balancier-contemporain-red-goldSquare High Watchmaking:https://monochrome-watches.com/collectors-series-nopstar83-audemars-piguet-edward-piguet-ultra-thin-skeleton-perpetual-25734or/https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/a-new-cartier-tank-cintree-limited-edition-in-platinum-live-picsResurrection:https://www.phillips.com/article/47875238/comparing-two-rolex-reference-4113-of-the-twelve-made-1Wood:https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/sequoia-wood-dial-1803-rolex-day-dateCarreras:https://www.windvintage.com/heuer-carrera-eggshell-dial-reference-3647shttps://www.acollectedman.com/products/heuer-carrera-2447snd-steelhttp://www.chronocentric.com/forums/chronotrader/index.cgi?page=1;md=read;id=74662https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/2447nst-heuer-carrera-second-execution-3Women in Watches:https://www.instagram.com/its.cara.time/https://www.acollectedman.com/blogs/journal/interview-daryn-schnipperhttps://www.instagram.com/a.dose.of.time/https://www.instagram.com/lunglungthun/https://www.instagram.com/aytystyle/https://www.instagram.com/oldwatchlady/https://www.youtube.com/@BrittPearceWatcheshttps://www.instagram.com/malaikamc/https://collectability.com/press/tania-edwards-the-woman-who-taught-a-generation-about-patek-philippe/https://www.instagram.com/dimepiece.co/Only Wrist:https://hairspring.com/products/25668pt-perpetual-calendar-skeleton-platinumhttps://www.hodinkee.com/articles/patek-philippe-perpetual-5270-titanium-green-unique-piece-children-action-2022https://www.phillips.com/detail/audemars-piguet/CH080222/69

The inimitable mastermind behind Unpolished returns to join Erik & Max; this episode is a wide-ranging discussion with Mr. Tony Traina himself. It covers three large segments of discussion. First, what’s been grinding Tony’s gears lately (and some of Erik’s as well). Then a collection-building exercise of two lifelong two-watch collections: one collection at 20K and one at 200K. Finally what are some trends that we’re not paying enough attention to right now? Links Mentioned:Lange on a Nato:https://www.instagram.com/lange.on.a.nato/Omega’s Bronze Gold:https://www.omegawatches.com/en-us/watches/seamaster/heritage-models/seamaster-300/seamaster-300-bronze-gold/productEast Germany’s Indestructible ‘Superfest’ Glass:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vEvBpjCOBu0Cartier-Restored Cintrée:https://www.phillips.com/detail/cartier/HK080221/829Collection Building (in Order of Discussion):20K:SBGW033:https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/sbgw033-grand-seiko-130th-anniversary-firstSBGM221:https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/my-trusty-old-grand-seiko-is-still-shockingly-accurate2500:https://thekeystone.com/products/patek-philippe-rose-gold-calatrava-watch-ref-2500165.024:https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/big-triangle-165-024-omega-seamaster-3001803/9 (Just Imagine This on a Strap):https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/arabic-disc-1803-9-rolex-day-date73443T:https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/exotic-dial-73443t-heuer-camaro-datoE335 Black Dial:https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/e335-lecoultre-valjoux-72-chronograph222100:https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/222100-1-universal-geneve-tri-compax200K:Empire:https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2025/important-watches/empire-a-rare-yellow-gold-automatic-wristwatchL. Leroy & Cie:https://www.phillips.com/detail/leroy/CH080515/2493800J:https://www.acollectedman.com/products/patek-philippe-nautilus-3800j-yellow-goldMN:https://hairspring.com/products/9401-0-marine-nationale-submariner-steel16520:https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/porcelain-floating-cosmograph-16528-rolex-daytona6239:https://www.phillips.com/detail/rolex/20612725820PT:https://hairspring.com/collections/exclusives/products/25820pt-tuscan-dial-royal-oak-quantieme-perpetuel-platinum1815 Chronograph:https://hairspring.com/products/401-026-1815-chronograph-first-generation-white-goldTrends We’re Not Paying Enough Attention To:https://www.nytimes.com/2023/03/26/fashion/watches-workforce-switzerland.htmlDavid Candaux:https://www.phillips.com/detail/david-candaux/217670Suzanne Rohr:https://www.unpolishedwatches.com/p/under-the-hammer-watch-auctions-inOnly Wrist:384.032:https://www.alange-soehne.com/us-en/timepieces/saxonia/saxonia-moon-phase/saxonia-moon-phase-in-750-pink-gold-384-0323417:https://hairspring.com/products/3417-amagnetic-steelE168 Geophysic:https://www.phillips.com/detail/jaegerlecoultre/CH080218/134

This is the story of how Glashütte came to be, once again, the epicenter of German watchmaking. This week, Erik & Max do their best to debrief the 1994-2000 rise of A. Lange & Söhne, and particularly to tell the story of the ambitious, hard-working folks involved. This episode targets key moments in the manufacture's rise to success, central tenets to the brand’s identity, many quotes, and several fun facts you might have missed along the way. Links Mentioned:Blümlein Retrospective, with Büsser’s Quote:https://monochrome-watches.com/20-years-later-remembering-gunter-blumlein-his-impact-on-watchmaking-industry-iwc-jaeger-lecoultre-lange-sohne-in-depth/Kurt Klaus Quote on Günter’s Belief in his QP:https://quillandpad.com/2017/01/31/life-times-lange-sohne-re-founder-walter-lange/A Bit on the Relationship with IWC:https://quillandpad.com/2021/10/01/history-of-watchmaking-gunter-blumlein-a-lange-sohne-jaeger-lecoultre-iwc-and-the-lmh-supergroup/Retrospective on Walter Langer:https://quillandpad.com/2017/01/31/life-times-lange-sohne-re-founder-walter-lange/Reinhard Meis Interview:https://deployant.com/reinhart-meis-the-almost-forgotten-hero-in-the-creation-of-the-lange-design-dna/Das Tourbillon:https://www.amazon.com/Das-Tourbillon-Faszination-Uhrentechnik/dp/3766710591Interview that Talks a Bit About LMH Company (Not LVMH!):https://people.timezone.com/msandler/TZInterviews/Blumlein/Blumlein.htmlSome photographs from the the 1994 Launch:https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/twenty-years-ago-today-a-lange-shne-was-re-bornLange 1 Background:https://langepedia.com/a-lange-sohne-lange1/https://www.acollectedman.com/blogs/journal/lange-1-modern-iconLange 1 Golden Ratio Short:https://www.facebook.com/PISA1940/videos/lange-1-golden-ratio/2149627791986710/(Erik said Genevan Striping, not meant Glashütte-ean striping, sorry)Our Favorite Early Lange 1s:Darth:https://hairspring.com/products/101-035-darth-lange-1-platinum101.026:https://www.phillips.com/detail/a-lange-sohne/NY080119/62112.021:https://langepedia.com/a-lange-sohne-lange1/lange-1a-112-021/(Open Caseback, Misspoke)101.002:https://www.phillips.com/detail/a-lange-sohne/CH080122/277Arkade:https://langepedia.com/a-lange-sohne-arkade/Saxonia:https://langepedia.com/a-lange-sohne-saxonia-langematik/Pour le Mérite:https://langepedia.com/a-lange-sohne-1815/lange-tourbillon-pour-le-merite/Anthony De Haas Quote:https://www.phillips.com/article/87714395/a-lange-sohne-three-great-stories-behind-three-great-watchesAn Example of an Integrated Wellendorff:https://hairspring.com/products/151-025-stealth-lange-1-platinumAn Example on a Non-Integrated Wellendorff:https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/101-325-lange-1-stealth-pt-on-wellendorff-bracelet1999 Datograph Release:https://www.acollectedman.com/blogs/journal/datograph-collectors-guidehttps://langepedia.com/a-lange-sohne-datograph-guide/https://www.watchprosite.com/editors-picks/lange-s-tourbo-team/10.628746.3939091/https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/dufourgraph-403-031-a-lange-sohne-datographOnly Wrist:Erik:https://watchesbysjx.com/2023/07/petermann-bedat-reference-2941-split-seconds-chronograph-review.htmlhttps://www.hodinkee.com/articles/a-lange-sohne-1815-rattrapante-perpetual-calendar-handwerkskunst-introducinghttps://www.phillips.com/detail/patek-philippe/CH080123/139Max:https://www.phillips.com/detail/patek-philippe/CH080123/139https://www.phillips.com/detail/a-lange-sohne/209769https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/2022-concorso-d-eleganza-villa-d-este-414-049-a-lange-sohne-1815-chronograph

In this qasi-Q&A format, we asked you for recommendations on watches that might be the future of collecting. Some replies were quite out there, some were unexpected, and many were rather great. This week, we give on thoughts on what you all are marking as the future classics. Links Mentioned:Berneron:https://www.unpolishedwatches.com/p/a-first-look-at-the-berneron-annualChris Ward: https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/introducing-christopher-ward-open-balanceCzapek: https://monochrome-watches.com/czapek-antarctique-tourbillon-review-video-specs-price/LF Sport Auto:https://hairspring.com/products/sport-auto-blue-titaniumGrand Sport Tourbillon:https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-laurent-ferrier-grand-sport-tourbillon-now-with-an-extra-side-of-steel1655 Mk1:https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/mk1-straight-hand-1655-rolex-explorer-iiFirst Generation Datograph:https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/first-generation-403-035-a-lange-sohne-datographFirst Generation 1815 Chronograph:https://hairspring.com/products/401-026-1815-chronograph-first-generation-white-goldTransitional Refs:https://hairspring.com/products/6262-cosmograph-daytona-steelhttps://hairspring.com/products/16550-cream-panna-dial-explorer-ii-steelhttps://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/165-014-omega-seamaster-300126509 Daytona and White Gold in General:https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/126509-rolex-cosmograph-daytona 1019:https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/black-dial-1019-rolex-milgauss-2Cern Dial:https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/cern-1019-rolex-milgaussGloss Dial:https://www.phillips.com/detail/rolex/CH080217/196Patek Philippe Modern World Timers:https://www.phillips.com/article/60176722/patek-philippe-world-time-guide-current-new-2000sZenith:https://hairspring.com/products/a386-el-primero-steelhttps://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/a3817-zenith-el-primero-3https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/cover-girl-a3818-zenith-el-primero-2LUC Greats:https://hairspring.com/products/luc-qf-revolution-steelhttps://hairspring.com/products/luc-1860-steelChristian Klings:https://www.phillips.com/detail/christian-klings/196592Moritz Grossmann:https://hairspring.com/products/tremblage-steelLang & Heyne:https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/lang-heyne-konig-albert-von-sachsenLange 1s:https://www.acollectedman.com/products/a-lange-sohne-lange-1-dubail-white-goldSIHH Santos:https://specialdial.com/products/cartier-santos-galbee-lm-ref-2319-sihh-asia-limited-edition-box-papersOcto Finissimo:https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/introducing-bulgari-octo-finnissimo-ultra-tourbillon6538 Four Liner:https://www.phillips.com/detail/rolex/CH080216/376200 King:https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/king-sub-6200-rolex-submarinerMore Unusual Independents:https://hairspring.com/products/lm101-for-hodinkee-steelhttps://www.urwerk.com/collections/ur-chronometry/amcSAS 216570:https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/sas-216570-rolex-explorer-iiBlack Bay Black Rose:https://bulangandsons.com/blogs/watch-talks/tudor-heritage-black-bay-black-79220n116600:https://monochrome-watches.com/opinion-why-rolex-sea-dweller-116600-is-the-best-modern-rolex-dive-watch-you-can-get/Max:https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/found-vintage-heuer-carrera-car-and-driverhttps://www.phillips.com/article/19240144/the-heuer-monaco-dark-lord-ref-740303nErik:https://quillandpad.com/2021/05/15/behind-the-lens-vintage-patek-philippe-reference-3450j/https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/lapis-dial-18039-rolex-day-date-white-goldhttps://www.hodinkee.com/articles/breitling-designer-sylvain-berneron-sets-out-to-explore-asymmetry-on-his-ownOnly Wrist:The Central Watch in the Second Photo Down Here (Carbon Tourbillon):https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/bulgari-octo-finissimo-tadao-ando-limited-edition-ref-103534-introducingOdysseus:https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-a-lange-and-sohne-odysseus-in-so-much-honeygold

Erik & Max are going for it now: what are the worst dials made (the ones we all should’ve loved but can’t)? This is not just a roast of Jacob & Co, but rather dials and concepts that had promise, only to fail in the execution. There’s no shortage of content here this week, apologies for the long run time. Also, what might be the greatest Only Wrist yet. Links Mentioned:A3630:https://www.fratellowatches.com/dear-zenith-bring-back-the-sub-sea-ref-a3630/Corum:https://www.windvintage.com/corum-coin-watch-1896-unpolishedRolex Mexican LE:https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/3612-rolex-centenario-coin-watchCartier Basc 2522:https://onlineonly.christies.com/s/christies-watches-online-time-spring/cartier-tank-basculante-ref-2522-97/53903Patek Philippe 3919:https://www.tickingtimehomme.com/shop/1990s-patek-philippe-calatrava-pat-3919-s19-001Patek Philippe 5159:https://collectability.com/product/patek-philippe-perpetual-retrograde-calendar-ref-5159g-001/Patek Philippe 3923A (Doesn’t Belong on List, but Discussed):https://www.tickingtimehomme.com/shop/1990s-patek-philippe-calatrava-pat-3919-s19-001Patek Philippe 3712:https://www.acollectedman.com/products/3712-1a-nautilus-jumbo-3-dot-steelPatek Philippe 5712: https://www.acollectedman.com/products/patek-philippe-nautilus-5712Patek Philippe 5085 Neptune:https://monochrome-watches.com/collector-series-interview-gaurav-brings-the-light-on-the-unusual-patek-philippe-neptune-5085a/Cubitus 5822:https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/introducing-patek-philippe-cubitus-collectionAP Chronicle Guilloché Tapisserie History (Remember this is Written by AP):https://apchronicles.audemarspiguet.com/en/article/guillochage-tapisserie1999 Time for Trees:https://mrwatchley.com/products/audemars-piguet-royal-oak-foundation-time-for-the-trees-ref-15100stStamped 15710ST:https://www.audemarspiguet.com/com/en/watch-collection/royal-oak-offshore/15710ST.OO.A027CA.01.htmlTridor:https://amsterdamvintagewatches.com/shop/rolex-day-date-18239b-tridor/Patek 40th Nautilus: https://www.watchprosite.com/patek-philippe/patek-philippe-nautilus-40th-anniversary-5976-1g-and-5711-p/11.1085918.8010198/AP KAWS:https://www.audemarspiguet.com/com/en/watch-collection/royal-oak-concept/26656TI.GG.D019VE.01.htmlEarly Tudor Subs ‘Acne’:https://omegaforums.net/threads/tudor-snowflake-9411-0-thoughts-on-this-one.128820/Radium Burn:https://www.windvintage.com/rolex-stelline-star-dial-galaxy-reference-6098-in-18k-yellow-gold-on-jubilee-unpolishedAndersen Geneve Vita Vinum:https://www.watchprosite.com/independents/a-picture-of-the-vita-vinum-by-andersen-geneve/16.1300521.11085531/—— What Greases Gears:Berneron:https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/breitling-designer-sylvain-berneron-sets-out-to-explore-asymmetry-on-his-ownLongines:https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/highly-tropical-longines-legend-diver-7150Breguet:https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/3057-breguet-classique-perpetual-calendarHermes:https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-case-for-hermes2005 Superocean:https://hairspring.com/products/2005-yachting-superocean-slow-chronograph-steel——Only Wrist:https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/doorstop-dial-1803-rolex-day-date-pink-goldhttps://www.gq.com/story/watches-of-the-week-7-25-20https://www.fratellowatches.com/vintage-zodiac-zodia-chron-hermetic-valjoux-72-watch-review/#grefhttps://www.ssongwatches.com/products/yema-yachtingrafYema Collecting Guide:https://www.regatta-yachttimers.com/brands/yema/

While independents, Daytonas, and PCCs return to new highs, Erik & Max turn their attention to unusual corners of watches that aren’t aggressively collected today. As long as they’re rare, well studied, interesting, and beautiful, they’re in the running this week. Plus a two-in-one Only Wrist. Links Mentioned:Questionable Cloche (last image):https://www.phillips.com/detail/cartier/214804Lange Grand Comp Pocket Watch:https://www.phillips.com/detail/a.-lange-&-söhne/217289Charlie’s Guide to the 1018:https://www.strictlyvintagewatches.com/the-rolex-oyster-perpetual-reference-1018Bubbleback:https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-rolex-bubbleback-and-why-it-still-mattersPolerouter Guides:https://universalgenevepolerouter.com/articles/Rolex Veriflat:https://www.unpolishedwatches.com/p/the-rolex-veriflat-and-why-its-a6305 Datejust:https://www.phillips.com/detail/rolex/CH080322/159Les Historiques Worth Knowing:43045 1921 QP:https://www.phillips.com/detail/vacheron-constantin/CH080217/10949005:https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/specially-made-for-asprey-smooth-black-dial-49005-vacheron-constantin-perpetual-calendar-chronograph47151:https://ineichen.com/auctions/special-9/10/47111:https://ineichen.com/auctions/special-9/10/49002 (4072-Inspired Plus Date):https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/49002-vacheron-constantin-les-historiques-chronograph-in-pt47052:https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/49002-vacheron-constantin-les-historiques-chronograph-in-pt43032:https://hairspring.com/products/43032-perpetual-calendar-skeleton-platinumSigned Heuer Examples:https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/found-vintage-heuer-carrera-car-and-driverhttps://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/shelby-cobra-dial-3147n-heuer-carrera-dato-12https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2024/fine-watches-9/reference-3647-carrera-sunray-dx-a-stainless-steel116509 Sodalite:https://www.thewatchbarn.com/shop/p/rolex-daytona-rare-stone-sodalite-arabic-dial-watch-116509-w010069PLM 701.001 and Its Family:https://langepedia.com/a-lange-sohne-1815/lange-tourbillon-pour-le-merite/Salmon PLM:https://www.sothebys.com/en/auctions/ecatalogue/2011/important-watches/lot.34.htmlNeo Minerva:https://www.acollectedman.com/products/minerva-chronograph-white-gold (Knurled One)https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/copper-salmon-pulsations-minerva-1858-monopusher-in-steelhttps://www.phillips.com/detail/minerva/CH080221/96True Vintage Minerva:https://www.phillips.com/detail/minerva/CH080218/52Blancpain QP:https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/5495-blancpain-villeret-perpetual-in-platinumUnusual Midas:https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/lapis-lazuli-dial-4316-rolex-king-midas-cellinihttps://www.phillips.com/detail/rolex/HK080319/9311530: https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/1530-rolex-oyster-perpetual-date-4Only Wrist:AP DD:https://hairspring.com/products/25573ba-tiffany-co-dial-day-date-yellow-goldhttps://hairspring.com/products/25594st-royal-oak-day-date-moonphase-steel570:https://www.phillips.com/detail/patek-philippe/198629

This episode covers all you need to know to begin speaking Daytona. No more needs to be said. Links Mentioned:Pre-Daytona:3346 Zerographe:https://www.phillips.com/detail/rolex/CH080016/364113 Split:https://www.phillips.com/article/47875238/comparing-two-rolex-reference-4113-of-the-twelve-made-14537:https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/4537-rolex-chronograph5034: https://www.phillips.com/detail/rolex/CH080220/503525:https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/monoblocco-3525-rolex-chronographhttps://www.hodinkee.com/articles/a-vintage-rolex-reference-3525-telling-a-beautiful-but-tragic-story6034 Pre-Daytona:https://www.phillips.com/detail/rolex/CH080122/2216234 Pre-Daytona:https://www.phillips.com/detail/rolex/CH080122/1926238 Pre-Daytona:https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/black-galvanic-dial-6238-rolex-pre-daytona-chronographA Fantastic Chronology of Pre-Daytona:https://goldammer.me/blogs/articles/reference-guide-vintage-rolex-pre-daytona—— And we Begin Daytona, We Have to Link the Reference Points:https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/understanding-the-rolex-non-paul-newman-daytonaThe OG Le Mans Ad in In this Article:https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/up-close-and-personal-with-the-2023-rolex-le-mans-daytona-ref-126529lnA Great 6239:https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/paul-newman-6239-rolex-daytona6240 with Millerighe Pushers, the First Oyster Pusher:https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/small-floating-dial-6240-rolex-daytonaThis Guide has a Pretty Sound Pusher Study:https://www.41watch.com/en/journal/historical-reviews-of-iconic-watches/retrospective-complete-de-la-rolex-daytona6241:https://www.phillips.com/detail/rolex/CH080121/1996262 & 6264:https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/6262-rolex-daytonahttps://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/lemon-paul-newman-6264-rolex-daytona-26263 & 6265:https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/tropical-dial-6265-rolex-daytonahttps://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/big-red-6263-rolex-daytonaThe 6269 & 6270 that ‘Don’t Count’:https://amsterdamvintagewatches.com/shop/rolex-daytona-6269/https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/rolex-daytona-reference-6270Our Manual Favorite Dials:The Seminal Double Swiss Underline 6239 Article:https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-first-rolex-daytona-by-benjamin-clymerJPS:https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/jps-paul-newman-6239-rolex-daytonaSolo 6240:https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/solo-dial-6240-rolex-daytonaThe Questionables:Qaboos 6263:https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/qaboos-6263-rolex-daytonaThe Unicorn:https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/white-gold-rolex-daytona-6265-unicorn-phillips-auctionAnd the Unicorn Controversy:https://perezcope.com/2022/12/31/rolex-daytona-6265-the-unicorn-frankenstein-plot/Neanderthal:https://perezcope.com/2022/11/03/rolex-daytona-6240-paul-newman-neanderthal-a-myth-goes-extinct/Yacht-Master 6264:https://www.rolexmagazine.com/2008/06/ultra-rare-prototype-yachtmaster.html#gsc.tab=0—— Automatic Daytona:Floating 16520:https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/porcelain-floating-cosmograph-16528-rolex-daytonaPatrizzi:https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/16520-patrizzi-rolex-daytonaFour-Liner:https://bulangandsons.com/blogs/watch-talks/spot-on-the-rolex-daytona-16520-mk2-four-linerIntro of the 116520:Panna 116520:https://www.phillips.com/detail/rolex/CH080424/194Ceramic Daytona:https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-new-rolex-daytona-now-with-black-cerachrom-bezelNew Ceramic Daytona:https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-new-rolex-daytonaLe Mans:https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/126529ln-rolex-le-mans-daytonaTiffany Zenith Daytona:https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/tiffany-signed-16520-zenith-daytona—— Only Wrist:https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-a-lange-and-sohne-1815-gets-a-34mm-casehttps://www.chopard.com/en-us/watch/161954-9001.html

It’s not just a Watches & Wonders retrospective this week, as Erik & Max attempt to also choose a superior vintage alternative in the same vein to each new release. There are roasts, reasonable critiques, and some unexpected loves in this year’s releases. This week’s episode covers the Land-Dweller, Calatrava, Lange Repeaters, and so much. Plus, Journe goes Geländewagen. Links Mentioned:NSO Bye-Bye:https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/breaking-news-cartier-nso-programTank à Guichets:https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/hands-on-cartier-tank-a-guichet-2025Alternates:https://www.acollectedman.com/products/vacheron-constantin-jumping-hours-43040Alan Keating De Bethune (only capture I could find was on Reddit):https://www.reddit.com/r/Watches/comments/1d4to4p/identify_watch_worn_here_by_alan_keating_from/Land Dweller:https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/hands-on-rolex-land-dweller1530:https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/1530-rolex-oyster-perpetual-date-4Alternates:https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/tropical-14790st-audemars-piguet-royal-oak-2https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/beyer-signed-3212-iwc-yacht-club-ii-jumbo-automatichttps://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/1830-iwc-golf-club-sl1908 Settimo Bracelet:https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-rolex-perpetual-1908-in-yellow-gold-on-braceletCeramic Dials:https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-rolex-gmt-master-ii-left-hand-in-white-gold-with-green-dialTiger Iron:https://www.ablogtowatch.com/hands-on-rolex-gmt-master-ii-126715chnr-tiger-iron-watch/Reverso:https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/jaeger-lecoultre-updates-the-reverso-tribute-duoface-and-monoface-small-secondsGreat Wave:https://www.woohootime.com/#/watches/5266196P:https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-patek-philippe-6196p-the-best-calatrava-in-a-generationAlternates:https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/2526-patek-philippe-calatrava-white-goldhttps://www.windvintage.com/patek-philippe-reference-2509-unpolished-w/-extracthttps://www.hodinkee.com/articles/hands-on-patek-philippe-6159gOdysseus:https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-a-lange-and-sohne-odysseus-in-so-much-honeygoldAlternates:https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/3800-1j-yellow-gold-patek-philippe-nautilusQP Repeater:https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-a-lange-and-sohne-minute-repeater-perpetual-live-pictures-thoughts-and-comparisonshttps://hairspring.com/products/330-039-saxonia-annual-calendar-u-s-boutique-white-goldG-Wagen Journe:https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/hands-on-fp-journe-chronometre-furtifOnly Wrist:https://hairspring.com/products/9240-ingenieur-perpetual-calendar-jumbo-yellow-goldhttps://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/3057-breguet-classique-perpetual-calendarhttps://www.gphg.org/en/watches/big-pilots-watch-perpetual-calendar-top-gun-edition-mojave-deserthttps://www.hodinkee.com/articles/introducing-chopard-luc-quattro-2025

Chances are, you won’t agree with the ideas we’re discussing this week. And that’s the whole point. This week, Erik & Max ask, ‘What do you believe that almost no on else in watches seems to?” Discussion leads to the Fast & Furious, Triple Calendars, Dufour, Lange QPs, and Instagram. Plus, what should a very successful furniture maker wear? Links Mentioned:LUC XPS:https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/chopard-brings-a-touch-of-heritage-to-the-luc-xps-with-a-new-forest-green-sector-dialBreguet Guide by Tahoma:https://www.tahomawatches.com/read/collectors-guide-to-early-breguetWellendorff Breguet:https://www.sothebys.com/en/auctions/ecatalogue/2019/dubai-watches-db1901/lot.110.htmlProfane Watches:https://www.rescapement.com/blog/three-times-using-the-f-word-made-for-a-great-fing-watchF&F Family (I couldn’t find Max’s Rolex):https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IQuc7wfO16Q25447 Carrera:https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/2547s-heuer-carrera-12-datoOris pointer:https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/oris-brings-back-the-bronze-for-its-latest-pointer-date-limited-edition5726 (Max’s Fav):https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/5726a-patek-philippe-annual-calendar3712:https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/5726a-patek-philippe-annual-calendarDufour Backlash:https://www.instagram.com/p/CuHdd-XrBAK/345.056:https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/salmon-dial-345-056-a-lange-sohne-lange-1-perpetual-calendar310.225:https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/310-225-a-lange-sohne-langematik-perpetual-wellendorff-braceletOnly Wrist:https://onlineonly.christies.com/s/watches-online-geneva-edit/audemars-piguet-yellow-gold-perpetual-calendar-moon-phases-square-282/167335https://www.phillips.com/detail/patek-philippe/CH080117/34https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/walser-wald-dial-591-patek-philippe-chronograph-pink-goldhttps://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/1579-spider-lug-patek-philippe-chronographhttps://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/tropical-dial-6265-rolex-daytona

There are small mistakes and then there is today’s topic: true faux pas. From interactions with other collectors to the way manufactures design their watches, this week is all about those social blunders. Obviously, this episode is mostly Erik & Max moaning and groaning, but there are one or two deeper points worth contemplating. In addition, the second topic at hand: if we were each to be mono-brand collectors, how would we each go about it?Links Mentioned:JPH Obituary: https://watchesbysjx.com/2025/03/obituary-jean-pierre-hagmann.htmlLange Triple Split:https://monochrome-watches.com/a-lange-sohne-triple-split-in-pink-gold-and-blue-review-specs-price/Steel Spring Bars in Precious Cases:https://www.watchprosite.com/a.-lange-and-söhne/steel-spring-bars-eroding-away-the-lug-holes-/10.1546036.15123976/Types of Guilloché:https://www.screwdowncrown.com/p/guilloche-deception-atelier-wen-revolutionGianni Agnelli:https://italianwatchspotter.com/gianni-agnellis-watch-collection-over-the-cuff/?lang=enPolerouter Window:https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/204612-1-universal-geneve-polerouter-dateHome Plate:https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/black-dial-7032-tudor-monte-carlo-home-plateLange 1 Perpetual:https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/salmon-dial-345-056-a-lange-sohne-lange-1-perpetual-calendarType XX:https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/hands-on-breguet-type-xx-type-20Going Monobrand:Max:V72:https://goldammer.me/blogs/articles/valjoux-lecoultre-us-chronograph-guideGeophysic:https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/e168-jaeger-lecoultre-geophysicDSA History:https://www.watchprosite.com/jaeger-lecoultre/jaeger-lecoultre-tribute-to-deep-sea-alarm-full-hands-on-review-sihh-2011-/2.681148.4348178/Erik:Lange Picks:https://www.alange-soehne.com/us-en/timepieces/saxonia/datograph-perpetual-tourbillon-honeygold-lumenhttps://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-a-lange-and-sohne-odysseus-chrongraph(Correction: chronograph, not split, obvs)https://langepedia.com/a-lange-sohne-1815/lange-tourbillon-pour-le-merite/Omega:https://hairspring.com/products/2915-2-speedmaster-steelhttps://www.hodinkee.com/articles/omega-ploprof-in-depthhttps://www.phillips.com/detail/OMEGA/CH080217/182Only Wrist:4072:https://www.phillips.com/detail/vacheron-constantin/HK080422/80254178:https://www.phillips.com/detail/vacheron-constantin/CH080223/184CdV:https://www.phillips.com/detail/vacheron-constantin/NY080222/10090s QP Skeletons:https://hairspring.com/products/43032-perpetual-calendar-skeleton-platinumhttps://hairspring.com/products/25668pt-perpetual-calendar-skeleton-platinum

This week is all about the Rolex that moved the brand from tool watches to luxury: the Day-Date. We cover the beginnings, chronology, famous wearers, advertising, interesting dials, and everything down to the Oysterquartz Perpetual Calendar (you read that right). It’s a more granular episode than most, but if you’ve been looking to get up to speed with the President, here’s a quick download. Plus, what should a successful private mountaineering guide spring for at 75k?Links Mentioned:https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/jean-claude-killy-6236-rolex-datocompaxhttps://hairspring.com/products/8171-padellone-yellow-gold_43285https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/stelline-dial-6062-rolex-triple-calendar-moonphase6510:https://www.phillips.com/detail/rolex/HK080116/2936511:https://www.phillips.com/detail/rolex/CH080115/40Steel Prototype:https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-6394633Eisenhower Datejust at Auction:https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/ikes-rolex-doesnt-sell-rr-auctionKennedy Omega:https://www.omegawatches.com/en-us/chronicle/1960-to-a-future-presidentKennedy Day-Date:https://www.rolexforums.com/showthread.php?t=115058https://www.rolexmagazine.com/2008/07/history-of-rolex-president-part-9.html#gsc.tab=0LBJ:https://www.forbes.com/sites/msolomon/2016/10/04/a-brief-history-of-the-rolex-president-watch/The 1803 (Just a Great Example of the Breed):https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/doorstop-dial-1803-rolex-day-date-pink-gold1803 Castro (Lol at the ‘Freedom Fighter’ title on the Monochrome article):https://monochrome-watches.com/fidel-castro-1926-2016-sportsman-freedom-fighter-rolex-wearer/https://quillandpad.com/2019/02/27/wrist-watching-fidel-castro-and-his-gold-rolex-submariner/Brezhnev:https://www.rolexmagazine.com/2011/12/rolex-communists-leonid-brezhnev-and.html#gsc.tab=0Saddam Hussein:https://www.rolexmagazine.com/2019/09/rolex-tool-watching-middle-east-rolex.html#gsc.tab=0Stella:https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/burl-wood-dial-18039-rolex-day-dateStone:https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/bloodstone-dial-18239-rolex-day-dateSequoia Wood:https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/sequoia-wood-dial-1803-rolex-day-dateBurl/Birch:https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/burl-wood-dial-18039-rolex-day-dateKhanjar:https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/khanjar-rolex-day-date-1803-in-blue-wgRolex 1530:https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/1530-rolex-oyster-perpetual-date-4Oysterquartz:https://hairspring.com/products/17000-oysterquartz-tropical-purple-pre-cosc-dial-steelOysterquartz Day-Date:https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/birchwood-dial-19018-rolex-oysterquartz-day-dateOysterquartz QP:https://revolutionwatch.com/rare-finds-rolex-perpetual-calendar-oysterquartz/Only Wrist:https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/well-preserved-black-16570-rolex-explorer-iihttps://hairspring.com/products/25730st-royal-oak-dual-time-steelDual Time Everest:https://hairspring.com/products/7910v-everest-overseas-dual-time-titaniumChronograph:https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/everest-vacheron-constantin-overseas-chronograph6542:https://hairspring.com/collections/exclusives/products/6542-gmt-master-steelDay-Date Ad that Doesn’t Track:https://www.adpatina.com/products/1969-rolex-day-date-ref-1803-taming-oil-well-fires-advertisement