Hairspring

This week Erik & Max are honored to be joined by founder of 37signals, thoughtful collector, and original thinker Jason Fried. While this episode briefly touches on Jason’s path as a collector, it’s spends more time on the philosophy of a meaningful business, knowing what doesn’t matter in design, what mades watches special to love, what defines craft, which watches were the least impressive in the metal, how the ability to sell permanence is linked to looking after your product, and so much more. Links Mentioned:The MIH:https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/found-elusive-mih-watch-up-for-grabshttps://www.ablogtowatch.com/mih-watch-review/https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-mih-gaia-watch105.012:https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/105-012-65-omega-speedmasterSteel Lange 1:https://langepedia.com/stainless-steel-a-lange-sohne/https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/lange-one-101026-steel(We were wrong around this timestamp Lange are at about 7,000 watches annually)Lange 1 Perpetual Calendar:https://langepedia.com/a-lange-sohne-lange-1-perpetual-calendar-tourbillon/Inline Patek QP:https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/patek-philippe-ref-5236p-001-in-line-perpetual-calendar-a-first-for-patek-introducing90% of Astons are still on the road:https://www.carthrottle.com/news/90-cent-aston-martin-cars-ever-built-are-still-roadRapide:https://www.the-intercooler.com/library/blog/man-maths-aston-martin-rapide/Lagonda:https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1983-aston-martin-lagonda-3/Resonance Pisa:https://www.phillips.com/detail/fp-journe/229536T10:https://www.acollectedman.com/products/t10-tourbillon-40mm-platinumWatch Jason is Googling Often:https://hairspring.com/products/sbgz005Watch that Floored in Person:https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/740-056-a-lange-sohne-datograph-perpetual-tourbillon-13 Watch Roll:https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/introducing-the-patek-philippe-3670a-a-new-chronograph-in-sthttps://hairspring.com/products/701-011-pour-le-merite-tourbillon-pink-goldhttps://www.acollectedman.com/products/t10-tourbillon-40mm-platinumOnly Wrist:https://naoyahidawatch.com/new-release/nh-type-7a/?lang=enhttps://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/heuer-3646-second-execution-autaviahttps://hairspring.com/products/239-050-1815-thin-homage-to-fa-lange-honeygold

This is the story of Danish watchmaking’s most storied name, a deep-dive chronicle to help collectors understand the very nuanced and convoluted history of Urban Jürgensen. This includes relevant backstory on Urban himself, a deep dive on Baumberger, Pratt, and the watches they made together—plus a look at what’s happening today under the Rosenfields and Venla with Kari Voutilainen. This episode focuses on wristwatches with particular attention given to the rise of the Pratt-Baumberger era, noting each reference in detail with points for collectors to come away from having learned something new: like how to take over Iceland. Links Mentioned:Some Guides Worth Reading:https://revolutionwatch.com/a-retrospective-the-legacy-of-urban-jurgensen/https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/urban-jurgensen-then-and-now19th-Century Pocket Watch:https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/urban-jurgensen-lot-299-87Jules Jürgensen Pocket Watch Deconstruction:https://www.thenakedwatchmaker.com/deconstruction-jules-jurgensenBaumberger:https://quillandpad.com/2020/05/20/tribute-to-peter-baumberger-1939-2010-rip-you-complete-and-utter-bastard/https://watchesbysjx.com/2020/05/peter-baumberger-urban-jurgensen-helmut-crott.htmlPratt:https://www.acollectedman.com/blogs/journal/derek-pratt-the-forgotten-watchmakerhttps://www.unpolishedwatches.com/p/getting-to-know-derek-pratt-the-watchmakershttps://quillandpad.com/2018/07/14/the-life-and-times-of-legendary-independent-watchmaker-derek-pratt-archive/H4:https://watchesbysjx.com/2019/09/john-harrison-marine-chronometer-h4-diamond-pallets.htmlThe Oval:https://watchesbysjx.com/2024/11/urban-jurgensen-derek-pratt-oval-pocket-watch.htmlhttps://www.phillips.com/detail/derek-pratt-for-urban-jurgensen/206983https://www.phillips.com/article/149733060/derek-pratts-oval-pocket-watch-voutilainen-urban-jurgensen-phillips-reloadedWristwatches:https://www.acollectedman.com/blogs/journal/urban-jurgensen-wristwatchesRef 1:https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/urban-jurgensen-reference-1Ref 2:https://www.phillips.com/detail/urban-jurgensen/213445Ref 3:https://www.phillips.com/detail/urban-jurgensen/228974Ref 5: https://hairspring.com/collections/exclusives/products/reference-5-platinumRef 8:https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/urban-jurgensen-reference-8Repeater Tourbillon:https://www.phillips.com/detail/urban-jurgensen/228973Great Podcast with Dr Helmut Crott:https://collectability.com/podcasts/interview-with-leading-horological-expert-and-pioneer-dr-helmut-crott/Detent Escapement:https://www.phillips.com/detail/urban-jurgensen/145819Alfred:https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/urban-jurgensen-the-alfred-hands-onThe One:https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/urban-jurgensen-one-collection-introducingUrban Jürgensen Revival:https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/introducing-urban-jurgensen-returns-2025https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/hands-on-urban-jurgensen-uj-1Only Wrist:https://hairspring.com/collections/exclusives/products/3755pt-perpetual-calendar-tourbillon-skeleton-platinumhttps://hairspring.com/products/25668pt-perpetual-calendar-skeleton-platinum

Now 100 episodes in, this episode covers some reflections and lessons learned. This is all ahead of a full-sized Q&A with questions ranging from a two-watch 100k collection, time traveling to give yourself advice, market direction, non-indie brands carrying the torch for watchmaking, and many other topics. Plus, a fantastic Only Wrist for a linebacker.Links Mentioned:Total Unbiased FP Journe Market Update:https://www.phillips.com/article/what-now-for-f-p-journe-at-auction-phillips-new-york-june-2026Rolex + Tudor:https://hairspring.com/products/9401-0-marine-nationale-submariner-steelhttps://hairspring.com/products/7928-eagle-beak-gilt-dial-submariner-steelhttps://hairspring.com/products/8171-padellone-yellow-gold_43285https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2023/important-watches-part-i/daytona-john-player-special-reference-6241-aJDN:https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/jean-daniel-nicolas-two-minute-tourbillonhttps://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/early-production-c187-daniel-roth-tourbillon-double-faceModern Patina: https://www.phillips.com/detail/fp-journe/165511https://www.fratellowatches.com/two-months-of-living-with-the-tudor-black-bay-fifty-eight-silver/Vintage up to 5K:https://www.rescapement.com/blog/for-your-reference-rolex-air-king-reference-5500https://www.strictlyvintagewatches.com/the-rolex-oyster-perpetual-reference-1018https://universalgenevepolerouter.com/articles/https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/168-017-linen-dial-omega-constellation-datehttps://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/mk1-enicar-sherpa-jet-gmtWinnerl (Bernhard Zwinz):https://hairspring.com/blogs/journal/striking-a-delicate-balance-tradition-and-innovation-in-modern-watchmaking-with-bernhard-zwinz-of-winnerlSome Contemporary Winners:https://hairspring.com/products/4300v-overseas-ultra-thin-perpetual-calendar-skeleton-white-goldhttps://www.hodinkee.com/articles/introducing-chopard-luc-strike-one-titaniumhttps://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-blancpain-grande-double-sonneriehttps://www.hodinkee.com/articles/hands-on-breguet-classique-7225https://watchesbysjx.com/2025/12/breguet-experimentale-1-magnetic-constant-force-escapement.htmlPre-Daytona vs Daytona:https://hairspring.com/products/6238-pre-daytona-chronograph-black-galvanic-dial-steel-1https://hairspring.com/products/daytona-steelhttps://hairspring.com/products/6264-paul-newman-daytona-steelIndependents:https://hairspring.com/products/mirage-38-sienna-yellow-gold-2https://watchesbysjx.com/2020/11/petermann-bedat-1967-deadbeat-seconds-review.htmlhttps://www.hodinkee.com/articles/introducing-petermann-bedat-1825https://watchesbysjx.com/2018/04/hands-on-with-the-voutilainen-regulator-dial-decimal-repeater-piece-unique.html2-Collection:https://hairspring.com/products/2526j-calatrava-frecerro-dial-yellow-goldhttps://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/7159-0-tudor-monte-carlohttps://hairspring.com/products/403-035-datograph-first-generation-platinumhttps://hairspring.com/products/43032-perpetual-calendar-skeleton-platinumJay-Z:https://wristcheck.com/us/discover/culturecheck/inside-jay-zs-watch-collectionBankrupt Indies:https://robbreport.com/style/watch-collector/hyt-files-for-bankruptcy-1234599628/https://watchesbysjx.com/2020/02/rj-romain-jerome-bankrupt.htmlhttps://www.acollectedman.com/blogs/journal/brief-history-urban-jurgensenOnly Wrist:https://mrwatchley.com/collections/watches/products/pascal-coyon-series-2-unique-piece-enamel-dial-with-breguet-numeralshttps://www.acollectedman.com/products/cartier-tortue-minute-repeater-2512c-white-gold

From things that came before the 2215 Chronometer to 43040s and repeaters, this episode covers all the quirky Vacheron Constantins that normally aren’t discussed—including a semantics argument of what is and isn’t a Cornes de Vache. If the more alternative side of VC has ever called to you, here is a broad overview of some areas that may be worth attention. Links Mentioned:Keith Mitchell TW:https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/keith-mitchell-talking-watches333:https://www.iconeek.com/auction-lot/vacheron-constantin-333-automatic-333-re_53e43b99be2045:https://www.stephaniewindsor.com/products/vacheron-constantinhttps://www.bonhams.com/auction/21934/lot/195/vacheron-constantin-a-fine-18ct-white-gold-bracelet-watch-with-mint-green-dial-made-for-the-libyan-market-ref2045-circa-1976/4072:https://www.unpolishedwatches.com/p/vacheron-constantin-reference-4072https://www.phillips.com/detail/vacheron-constantin/1279994178:https://www.phillips.com/detail/vacheron-constantin/15999249002:https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/49002-vacheron-constantin-les-historiques-chronograph-in-pt43040:https://www.acollectedman.com/products/vacheron-constantin-jump-hour-43040-yellow-gold-16087:https://www.phillips.com/detail/vacheron-constantin/909014764 ‘Cioccolatone’:https://www.phillips.com/detail/vacheron-constantin/909016562:https://thekeystone.com/products/vacheron-constantin-steel-automatic-watch-ref-65626111:https://www.phillips.com/detail/vacheron-constantin/2236332215:https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/2215-vacheron-constantin-royal-chronometer-1https://www.hodinkee.com/magazine/ronnie-fieg43031:https://hairspring.com/products/43031-perpetual-calendar-guilloche-dial-platinum43032:https://hairspring.com/products/43032-perpetual-calendar-skeleton-platinumDon Pancho:https://www.phillips.com/detail/vacheron-constantin/1252334261:https://watchesbysjx.com/2021/03/vacheron-constantin-minute-repeater-4261-les-collectionneurs.html6448:https://www.phillips.com/detail/vacheron-constantin/176180‘Renaissance’:https://thekeystone.com/products/vacheron-constantin-platinum-renaissance-ref-92084-incoming?srsltid=AfmBOoqbwD5TY11FkcNSn7gSE0KMsg9fakqtpPWifw1UEGgq1vTale2U43050:https://hairspring.com/products/43050-mercator-yellow-goldhttps://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/enamel-taiwan-dial-43050-vacheron-constantin-mercatorhttps://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-6394747https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-5758993Harmony:https://rarist.pl/en/products/harmony-71201-saudi-arabiaSerpenti:https://thekeystone.com/products/vacheron-constantin-tubogas-snake-watch-retailed-by-bulgari30030:https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2020/important-watches-9/reference-30030-a-pink-gold-skeletonized-minuteOnly Wrist:https://www.phillips.com/detail/vacheron-constantin/229790https://www.phillips.com/detail/omega/226230

Over the last five years, independent watchmaking has blossomed. This week, Erik & Max make an introduction to some names that have begun in recent years and are off to a promising start. Conversations include the basic framework and some thoughts on Clegeur, Pierre, Phimphrachanh, Birchall, Claeys, the Bernhards, Hazemann & Monnin, Lass, FaH, Mineroci, and even Bonniksen. Cleguer:https://cleguer.com/en-gbhttps://www.hodinkee.com/articles/cleguer-debuts-the-inspiration-one-with-a-proprietary-innate-escapementhttps://watchesbysjx.com/2026/05/cleguer-inspiration-one-review.htmlhttps://revolutionwatch.com/mathieu-cleguer-makes-his-debut-with-the-inspiration-one-souscription/Stéphane Pierre:https://stephanepierre.comhttps://www.hodinkee.com/articles/introducing-stephane-pierre-limpetranthttps://watchesbysjx.com/2026/04/stephane-pierre-l-impetrant.htmlDann Phimphrachanh:https://www.instagram.com/dann.phimphrachanh/?hl=enhttps://watchesbysjx.com/2025/08/dann-phimphrachanh-profile.htmlhttps://www.acollectedman.com/blogs/journal/an-afternoon-with-dann-phimphrachanhhttps://sfwatchlover.substack.com/p/an-exclusive-profile-of-dann-phimphrachanhAlan Birchall:https://www.a-birchall.comhttps://monochrome-watches.com/portrait-alan-birchall-independent-watchmaker-piece-d-essai-no-00-artisanal-watchmaking/https://www.isochrono.com/p/inside-tajimi-watching-a-handmadeKallinich Claeys:https://www.kallinichclaeys.com/enhttps://www.unpolishedwatches.com/p/a-visit-to-glashuttes-newest-independentL’Atelier Bernhard:https://www.instagram.com/l_atelier_bernard/?hl=enhttps://monochrome-watches.com/portrait-atelier-bernard-the-owl-bernard-van-ormelingen-bernard-braboretz-independent-watchmaking-duplex-escapement-interview/https://watchesbysjx.com/2025/12/latelier-bernard-owl-duplex.htmlHazemann & Monnin:https://hazemann-monnin.ch/en/index.htmlhttps://www.acollectedman.com/blogs/journal/interview-hazemann-and-monninChristian Lass:https://www.instagram.com/christian_lass/https://christianlass.dkFam al Hut:https://www.famalhut.com/en/index.htmlMineroci:https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/one-to-watch-minerociBonniksen Le Carrousel:https://monochrome-watches.com/announcing-naissance-une-montre-4-carrousel-project-bonniksen-aeon-foundation-news/Only Wrist:http://www.hajimeasaoka.com/timepieces_chrinograph_EN.htmlhttps://monochrome-watches.com/just-because-logan-kuan-rao-double-detent-escapement-prototype-unique-piece-chinese-indepenent-watchmaker/https://hairspring.com/products/701-011-pour-le-merite-tourbillon-pink-goldhttps://thekeystone.com/products/audemars-piguet-platinum-jump-hour-minute-repeater-watch-ref-25723