Hairspring

This week is a big one, as one of the most well-regarded and talented independents of this generation joins the show: Simon Brette. We discuss his days before Simon Brette the brand, working for Max Büsser, what it was like to branch out on his own, how he came up with the idea to bring individual artisans together, and what the future may look like. Plus, we talk about Mr. Brette as a collector, what pieces have influenced his work, and what his ideal three watch roll would be. Links Mentioned:The Simon Brette Chronomètre Artisans Rose:https://hairspring.com/collections/exclusives/products/chronometre-artisans-rose-goldChronode:https://chronode.ch/en/innovation-and-precision-at-the-heart-of-watchmaking-2/https://www.europastar.com/the-watch-files/watch-suppliers/1004113781-chronode-made-to-measure.htmlBreva Altimeter:https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/introducing-the-breva-gnie-01-the-worlds-first-watch-with-both-an-altimeter-and-a-barometerSchwarz Etienne ‘Ode à la Semaine’:https://www.watchonista.com/editorial/general/schwarz-etienne-a-watchmaking-legend-rises-from-the-ashes/MCT Dodekal One:https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/mct-dodekal-one-d110-introducing-6MB&F Which Simon Brette Worked On:https://www.mbandf.com/machines/mbf-machines/legacy-machines/lmxhttps://www.mbandf.com/machines/mbf-machines/horological-machines/hm10https://www.mbandf.com/machines/mbf-machines/horological-machines/hm9Yasmina Anti:https://www.instagram.com/gravure_et_metiers_arts/Watch Brette Has Been Googling:https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/in-depth-renaud-tixier-microrotorWatch That Floored Brette in the Metal:https://hodinkee.com.au/articles/hands-on-alexandre-martin-1965Brette’s Three Watch Roll:https://www.breguet.com/en/magazine-quai-de-l-horloge/edition-no-10/double-tourbillon-quai-de-lhorlogehttps://www.phillips.com/detail/roger-smith/185574https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-harry-winston-opus-xiv-a-jukebox-for-the-wristOnly Wrist:https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/buying-selling-collecting-john-shaeffer-repeaters (25798OR)https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/5240-iwc-portuguese-minute-repeaterhttps://www.hodinkee.com/articles/patek-philippe-5078g-minute-repeater-enamel-dial-introducingSimon Brette’s Website:https://simonbrette.com/en/

Erik & Max may not have been invited to vote, but that won’t stop this episode. This week’s show discusses first the new Datograph, of course, but then goes through the year’s nominees and their finer points. Before the Balance Cocks, the year’s decisive awards show, Erik & Max play by GPHG rules and decide how to actually award the prizes. Links Mentioned:Datograph on Bracelet is Back:https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/hands-on-lange-datograph-diamondsGPHG Nominees:https://www.gphg.org/en/gphg-2026/nominated-timepiecesPatek 96:https://collectability.com/learn/a-collectors-guide-to-the-patek-philippe-calatrava-ref-96/First Naissance D’Une Montre:https://www.phillips.com/article/166789475/naissance-dune-montre-1-michel-boulanger-white-gold-phillips-geneva-watch-auction-xxiii-may-2026Laurent Ferrier’s Best Traveller:https://hairspring.com/products/galet-traveller-enamel-sector-dial-for-hodinkee-titaniumEtablisserus Collection:https://www.audemarspiguet.com/fr/watch-collection/EtablisseursOnly Wrist:https://hairspring.com/collections/exclusives/products/101-061-lange-1-20th-anniversary-platinumhttps://hairspring.com/collections/exclusives/products/classic-micro-rotor-ice-blue-steelhttps://hairspring.com/collections/exclusives/products/prestige-hms-ten-platinum

This week, the gentlemen behind Petermann Bédat join the show. We cover their early history, what it’s like working at Lange while not speaking German, challenges faced in starting their own brand, philosophy of their manufacture, and how they’re planning for the future. In addition, we discuss both Gaël and Bédat as collectors and lovers of watches and collectors—including their ultimate 3 watch collections and an Only Wrist. A huge thanks to Gaël Petermann & Florian Bédat for joining!Links Mentioned:Lange Young Watchmaker Program:https://press.alange-soehne.com/committed-to-the-next-generation-of-watchmakers/1967 Deadbeat Auction:https://www.phillips.com/detail/petermann-bedat/2054702941 Article:https://watchesbysjx.com/2023/07/petermann-bedat-reference-2941-split-seconds-chronograph-review.html1342 with Theo Auffret:https://www.onlywatch.com/petermann-bedat-auffret-parisDominique Renaud:https://www.dominiquerenaud.com/en/home/Googling Recently:https://hairspring.com/collections/exclusives/products/tank-a-guichets-prive-pink-goldhttps://www.hodinkee.com/articles/gronefeld-brings-back-its-four-greatest-hits-with-the-new-1941-quadriviumLast Watch that Floored Them in Person:https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/hands-on-xhevdet-rexhepi-minute-inertehttps://xhevdetrexhepi.com/en3 Watch Roll:https://www.phillips.com/detail/patek-philippe/209369https://www.phillips.com/detail/patek-philippe/202611https://wristaficionado.com/products/rolex-daytona-giraffe-126555tbr-rose-gold-chestnut-brown-diamond-dial-diamond-bezel-2025https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2025/important-watches/reference-2524-1-retailed-by-guebelin-a-pink-goldhttps://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/5959r-patek-philippe-split-seconds-monopusherhttps://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-a-lange-and-sohne-minute-repeater-perpetual-live-pictures-thoughts-and-comparisonsOnly Wrist:https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/h-moser-and-cie-introduces-the-streamliner-two-hands-in-28mm-and-34mmhttps://laurentferrier.ch/collections/classic-origin/products/classic-origin-bluehttps://romaingauthier.com/en/news/introducing-the-new-c-by-romain-gauthier-titanium-edition-39.5/https://www.ming.watch

This is the story of two watchmakers, Daniels & Smith, who kept British independent watchmaking alive prior to the phrase independent existing. This chronicle encompasses Daniel’s story from Army service until pocket watches, fascination with Breguet, the Clutton & automotive connection, selling the Co-Axial, his pocket watches, wristwatches, the story of his first meeting with Smith, Smith’s near-decade attempt to become his pupil, Smith’s history, and a complete catalogue of Smith’s wristwatches so far. Of course, this includes many meandering and many offshoots, as you’ve grown to expect. We hope you enjoy. Links Mentioned:Pocket Watch Two:https://www.phillips.com/detail/roger-smith/185574G W Daniels Chronometer:https://www.sothebys.com/en/auctions/ecatalogue/2017/watches-sale-l17054/lot.119.html1924 Bentley 3-Litre:https://rmsothebys.com/auctions/pa26/lots/r0059-1924-bentley-3litre-speed-model-tourer-by-vanden-plas/Cecil Clutton:https://watchesbysjx.com/2026/02/cecil-clutton-collector-profile.htmlBreguet 3862:https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-4278226The Clutton Pocket Watch:https://watchesbysjx.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/01/16-The-first-Daniels-owned-by-Clutton-completed-in-1969.-Image-SJX-compositeAntiquorum.jpgEdward Hornby:https://www.phillips.com/detail/george-daniels/NY080121/102Atwood & Daniels:https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/george-daniels-seth-atwood-documentary-roger-smithSpace Traveller I:https://watchesbysjx.com/2019/06/george-daniels-space-traveller-i-pocket-watch.htmlSpace Traveller II:https://watchesbysjx.com/2019/08/george-daniels-space-traveller-ii-science-museum.htmlSpeedmaster Mark 4.5 Co-Axial Prototype:https://watchesbysjx.com/2013/07/news-omega-co-axial-exhibition-in-singapore-august-23-to-september-1.htmlDaniels Own Nautilus Prototype with a Co-Axial (Pictured Halfway Down this Article):https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/worlds-first-wristwatch-co-axial-escapement-london-science-museum-patekGeorge Daniel Datejust Prototype: https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/on-the-block-a-customized-rolex-datejust-with-a-george-daniels-co-axial-escapementWristwatches:https://watchesbysjx.com/2018/09/george-daniels-chronograph-wristwatch-tourbillon.htmlhttps://www.phillips.com/detail/george-daniels/174033Roger in the Pocket Watch Number One Years:https://cdn.prod.website-files.com/67ae27a1e535f319ac00ecab/689c6d95f8fde73fbfa25703_1990-img-1.webpPocket Watch Two:https://www.phillips.com/detail/roger-smith/185574Cosigned Millenium:https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2023/important-watches-part-i-2/millenium-number-01-a-unique-and-historicallyThe Blue:https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/unique-george-daniels-tourbillon-wristwatch-a-collected-manRoger W Smith Timeline:https://rwsmithwatches.com/evolutionOnly Wrist:https://hairspring.com/products/3940p-perpetual-calendar-third-series-platinumhttps://hairspring.com/products/730-032-1815-tourbillon-pink-gold

This week, the tables have turned. Erik & Max polled you, the audience, for your opinions. Together, we find out what future classics you believe are being made today, how your views and actions in collecting have evolved over the last decade, independents that are your capturing interest, how you track or record your collection, how you’d theoretically build a 300k collection, and your deepest regrets around giving into hype or missing it entirely. This was a fascinating insight into our little group’s deep, sometimes controversial views on collecting. Links Mentioned:Ludacris:https://www.movado.com/us/en/ludacris-x-bold-questYour Future Classics:https://hairspring.com/collections/exclusives/products/chronometre-artisans-rose-goldhttps://hairspring.com/collections/exclusives/products/mirage-34-lapis-lazuli-white-gold-1https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-rolex-daytona-le-mans-126529ln-reviewhttps://hairspring.com/products/414-028-1815-chronograph-white-gold-1https://hairspring.com/products/chronograph-black-dial-white-goldhttps://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/vacheron-constantin-cornes-de-vache-for-hodinkeehttps://hairspring.com/products/142-055-zeitwerk-lumen-honeygoldhttps://hairspring.com/products/363-150-odysseus-honeygoldhttps://hairspring.com/products/sp-one-platinumYour Independents Likely to Enjoy the Largest Rise Over the Next Decade:https://simonbrette.com/en/https://www.berneron.chhttps://www.rexheprexhepi.comhttps://rwsmithwatches.comhttps://petermann-bedat.comhttps://www.auffret-paris.comhttps://philippedufour.ch/en/https://romaingauthier.comSingle Reply Runners Up:https://www.instagram.com/qingan.official/?hl=enhttps://www.bexei.huhttps://naoyahidawatch.com/?lang=enhttps://stephanepierre.comhttps://astrehler.chhttps://go.davidcandaux.comhttps://sopranawatches.comhttps://www.ming.watchCollection Building Discussion:https://www.highsnobiety.com/p/oakley-watches/https://hairspring.com/collections/exclusives/products/reference-2-yellow-goldhttps://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/guillcohe-dial-47101-vacheron-constantin-historiques-chronographhttps://www.analogshift.com/products/bulova-accutron-261-original-cushion-tv-as11348https://hairspring.com/products/17000-oysterquartz-tropical-purple-pre-cosc-dial-steelhttps://hairspring.com/products/6238-pre-daytona-chronograph-black-galvanic-dial-steel-1https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Giorgio_Galli_(watchmaker)https://www.europeanwatch.com/blog/audemars-piguet-25548pt-quantieme-perpetuel-calendar-reviewhttps://langepedia.com/a-lange-sohne-lange-1-daymatic/https://www.fpjourne.com/en/collection/octa-collection/octa-automatique-lune-havanahttps://www.europeanwatch.com/blog/patek-philippe-5101p-10-day-tourbillon-reviewhttps://www.sinn.de/en/watches/556-i.htmlhttps://watchesbysjx.com/2026/08/berneron-quantieme-annuel-review.htmlhttps://www.fratellowatches.com/tbt-longines-conquest-1972-munich/https://greubelforsey.com/en/collections/balancier/balancier-qmhttps://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/186-0013-omega-equinoxe-reversoOnly Wrist:https://monochrome-watches.com/introducing-laurent-ferrier-classic-traveller-series-atelier-magnetic-green-hands-on-specs-price/https://hairspring.com/products/5164a-aquanaut-travel-time-steel