What's Contemporary Now?

Selena Forrest's journey from “wrong” to “right” has been marked by a series of peaks and valleys. Her beginnings weren't easy, and success wasn't a cure-all, but somewhere between the two, she's managed to find herself in the lessons along the way. At the height of her career, Selena hit an all-time low, walking out on a show she was set to close and seemingly setting proverbial bridges ablaze with some of her longest standing supporters. Choosing to enter rehab and embark on a different path, she's since come to see herself in a new light, both personally and within the industry at large. In this conversation, she reflects on the challenges of her childhood, the extraordinary opportunities modeling afforded her, and the perspective, growth, and newfound wisdom she's discovered through sobriety. A rare glimpse behind the curtain of one of the industry's most recognizable faces, this is a conversation filled with candid stories, hard-won perspective, and valuable takeaways about what it means to find your way back to yourself. “Are there really any failures? If you learn from it, are you really failing?” - Selena Forrest Episode Highlights: 03:20–05:31 | Meeting Her Mother for the First Time at Seven 05:33–06:55 | How Childhood Trauma Shaped Her Ability to Trust 06:57–08:33 | Being Discovered at 15 and Told to Get a Nose Job 12:49–13:57 | Choosing Recovery Over Walking a Fashion Show 14:34–15:34 | “The Alcohol Wasn’t the Problem. It Was My Solution” 16:44–18:11 | Why No Amount of Covers or Campaigns Could Make Her Feel Beautiful 18:23–19:07 | Healing as a Daily Choice 20:25–22:24 | Why Representation Matters for Girls Who Look Like Her 21:34–22:29 | Why She Believed One Person Who Called Her Ugly Over a Thousand Who Said She Was Pretty 22:29–24:30 | The Danger of Reducing Someone to a Single Moment 23:21–24:30 | How Other People’s Judgments Reflect Their Own Insecurities 24:30–25:44 | Curating Ourselves Versus Actually Knowing Ourselves 24:30–25:44 | Learning to See Herself Through Kinder Eyes 25:54–26:45 | Finding Community and Reciprocity Through Recovery 27:46–28:51 | Redefining Failure and Choosing Herself Over Professional Success 29:00–30:10 | When the Fashion Industry Knows Your Story but Doesn't Ask How You Are 31:16–32:46 | Separating Her Identity From Her Modeling Career 31:22–32:46 | Sobriety as an Accomplishment No One Can Take Away 32:46–35:19 | Why Friendship, Therapy and Mutual Care Matter Now 32:46–35:19 | What Is Contemporary Now? Connection and Friendship Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Alastair McKimm returns to What’s Contemporary Now?, this time on camera, to discuss life after 23 years at i-D and the launch of Prototype, a new creative venture bringing publishing, product design, and creative services under one roof. Now also Chief Creative Officer of Visual Talent Group (VTG), McKimm reflects on building a new model for creative businesses, his work with Gap, Marc Jacobs, and Miley Cyrus, and the role of curation in navigating an increasingly saturated world. From editing creative work to editing our own lives, we explore instinct, ambition, insecurity, and the challenge of sustaining a career without losing sight of ourselves. “What's contemporary now is curation and editing. Whether it comes to work or your own life or how you make your way through the world.” - Alastair McKimm Episode Highlights: 01:12–01:57 | Leaving i-D After 23 Years and Building Something of His Own 01:59–05:04 | Why Print, Curation and Editorial Judgment Still Matter 05:28–05:52 | Filtering the Noise in an Overwhelming World 05:58–08:17 | Giving Artists Creative Freedom Through Prototype 08:21–10:18 | Rethinking the Magazine Format and Business Model 10:18–12:03 | Building a Democratic Publication Without Hierarchies 18:04–20:39 | Finding Inspiration in the Everyday and Reimagining the Ordinary 21:03–22:35 | How We Give Meaning to the Things We Create 22:35–25:10 | Why We Still Need Physical Objects in a Digital World 25:34–26:51 | Finding His Own Creative Identity After i-D 27:50–29:28 | Learning to Embrace Uncertainty Through Marc Jacobs 29:29–30:40 | The Expanding Role of Creative Direction With Miley Cyrus 34:29–36:55 | Dealing With Criticism, Negativity and the Pressure to Please 36:56–38:14 | Staying Open to the World Beyond the Screen 38:14–39:48 | Creative Ambition, Insecurity and the Need for Validation 39:48–41:13 | Finding the Next Chapter When Your Career Defines You 41:18–44:32 | Work-Life Balance, Recovery and the Danger of Abandoning Yourself 44:11–44:32 | When Bad Habits Become the Price of Professional Success 44:45–45:34 | AI, Print and Why New Technologies Don't Have to Replace the Old 45:44–46:22 | What Is Contemporary Now? Curation, Editing and Clarity Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

It’s all about the Big Willy energy these days. What was once an independent, primarily menswear label showing at New York Fashion Week has become a full-blown fashion brand known for staging high-quality productions and often politically charged shows during the Paris men’s collections. The paradox of Willy Chavarria is that, despite the wide reach of his media storms, he’s still being discovered by new audiences even now. The illusion of overnight success is almost always backed by stories of hard work, an enduring willingness to prevail, and a commitment to learning everything one can along the way. His story strikes all of the favorite chords in any good human interest story: growing up as an outsider, learning to live with no regrets, and realizing that we always stand to benefit from thinking big.  “It's not like I haven't been beaten down to shit a million times in my life, because for sure I have. It's just that I've continued to get back up.” - Willy Chavarria  Episode Highlights: 02:18–03:17 | Growing a Fashion Brand From the Ground Up 03:58–06:20 | Growing Up an Outsider and Finding His Imagination 06:20–08:25 | How San Francisco’s ’90s Club Culture Changed Everything 09:54–12:24 | Why Personal Style Matters More Than Fashion 12:24–14:06 | Fashion as Perception, Storytelling and Self-Expression 14:07–15:58 | The Work History That Taught Him How to Build a Brand 15:58–17:40 | Starting a Brand at 40 and Knowing When You’re Ready 17:40–19:24 | Letting Go of Regret and Taking Control of Your Destiny 19:45–22:32 | Building a Brand Around Positivity, Inclusivity and Human Dignity 22:32–25:11 | When Political Conviction Becomes Part of the Brand 25:27–28:40 | Finding Joy in the Middle of a Horror Show 32:17–34:09 | The Ambition to Become the Next Ralph Lauren 34:10–38:42 | Redefining the Boundaries Between Menswear and Womenswear 41:47–44:04 | Why Loyalty Is Radical in Fashion 44:14–46:12 | Casting as Emotional Storytelling 48:34–50:57 | Why Paris Represents a New Chapter for Fashion 53:38–55:27 | Taking Fashion Beyond Clothes Into Music, Film and Entertainment 55:27–57:21 | Silencing the Inner Saboteur and Learning to Say “So What?” 57:23–58:38 | Taking Willy Chavarria Global 58:38–01:02:38 | Building a Life and Business With the Person You Love 01:02:40–01:04:39 | What Is Contemporary Now? Thinking Bigger Than Ourselves Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

As one of the first brands to democratize luxury fashion, H&M helped reshape the relationship between designer creativity and the wider public. From its landmark collaboration with Karl Lagerfeld in 2004, they’ve brought the creative genius of Versace, Margiela, Comme des Garçons, and countless others to the masses. A model that today reigns supreme when it comes to commonly practiced brand strategy and reaching key consumer touchpoints. Ann-Sofie Johansson, H&M’s Creative Advisor and Head of Design Womenswear, has been central to this evolution, along with playing a role in the brand’s dedication to nurturing emerging talent, with the return of the H&M Design Award taking place this November. In this conversation, Johansson considers what fashion must preserve in an increasingly technological and commercial landscape, from the value of craft to the need for greater individuality and optimism. “I think we need more optimism also, because if we're not optimistic, what is the point of doing anything really?” - Ann-Sofie Johansson Episode Highlights: 02:18–03:17 | The Making of a Fashion Creative, Growing Up in Sweden 03:17–04:40 | Swedish Values and the Culture of Collaboration 04:44–06:00 | How London’s ’80s Club Culture Changed Her View of Fashion 06:06–07:18 | When a Personal Passion Becomes a Creative Career 07:56–09:31 | Four Decades at H&M, Staying Curious in a Changing Landscape 09:40–11:43 | The Karl Lagerfeld Collaboration That Democratized Luxury Fashion 11:43–12:53 | How Designer Collaborations Bring Creative Worlds Together 12:53–13:59 | Beyond Designer Labels, Rethinking the Meaning of Luxury 13:59–15:30 | Cultural Relevance and Creative Instinct in Choosing Designer Collaborations 15:46–18:19 | Commercial Appeal vs. Conceptual Design, What Audiences Want from Fashion 20:23–23:15 | H&M Studio and the Search for New Creative Possibilities 23:39–28:00 | Fashion, Image-Making and Technology, Rethinking the Runway with Nick Knight 28:00–32:35 | Fashion’s Responsibility to the Next Generation of Designers 32:35–33:14 | Instinct and the Qualities of Great Design 33:14–34:17 | Why Optimism Matters in Creative Culture 34:17–35:34 | Finding Your Voice in a World of Constant Visual Influence 35:34–37:07 | Illustration and the Importance of Craft 37:07–40:09 | AI, Human Creativity and the Future of Design 40:09–41:15 | Can Fashion Become More Individual in an Era of Globalization? 41:15–43:15 | Social Media, Algorithmic Echo Chambers and the Future of Trend Forecasting 43:16–44:17 | How Brands Participate in Contemporary Culture 44:17–46:27 | The Cultural Connections Between Fashion, Art, Music and Literature 46:27–47:00 | What Is Contemporary Now? The Timeless Value of a Good Conversation Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Copenhagen Fashion Week marks its 20th anniversary at a moment when the fashion system is being asked to account for itself. In conversation with CEO Cecilie Thorsmark and COO Isabella Rose Davey, this episode examines how a regional fashion week evolved into a platform with global influence, and what that evolution reveals about the future of the industry. “Fashion weeks were falling out of sync with the world around us. They were celebrating fashion in a bubble, while everything else was changing.” CEO Cecilie Thorsmark  “What feels contemporary now to me is generosity.” COO Isabella Rose Davey Episode Highlights: A reflection on Copenhagen Fashion Week’s evolution from a regional showcase into a global platform with cultural and economic impact over its 20-year history. Insight into how Cecilie Thorsmark redefined the purpose of a fashion week, shifting it from celebration alone to a system that engages with responsibility, progress, and accountability. A candid discussion about implementing binding sustainability requirements, including the real challenges of enforcement, support, and industry resistance. An exploration of why sustainability works best as infrastructure rather than storytelling, and how Copenhagen embedded it into participation itself. A deep dive into CPHFW NEWTALENT and what emerging designers actually need today, beyond visibility, including mentoring, financial literacy, and long-term business support. A reframing of the term “emerging designer,” challenging age-based definitions and highlighting reinvention, experience, and second chapters. A conversation about the advantages of being small, agile, and human, and why Copenhagen’s scale allows for experimentation and intimacy that larger fashion weeks often lose. A thoughtful examination of why brands should be allowed to end, evolve, or transform without stigma, and how creative energy changes form rather than disappears. Cultural insight into why Copenhagen feels different, touching on quality of life, generosity, openness, and the city’s ability to foster genuine connection during fashion week. A closing reflection on what feels contemporary now, distilled into two values that define the platform’s ethos moving forward: responsibility and generosity. Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices