DiscoverHow Fitting: design a slow fashion business that fits
How Fitting: design a slow fashion business that fits
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How Fitting: design a slow fashion business that fits

Author: Alison Hoenes | women's apparel patternmaker

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How Fitting® is the podcast for slow fashion designers who want to create clothing and grow a business that fits their customer, lifestyle, and values. In biweekly episodes, hear how relatable fashion entrepreneurs (the kind who run their businesses from kitchen tables and cutting tables, not boardroom tables) navigate the fashion industry with integrity and define success based on their own principles.

In each conversation, host Alison Hoenes (a freelance women’s apparel patternmaker) explores the things that all slow fashion business owners experience: the vulnerability of launching something new, the deeply empathetic process of designing clothes that fit a niche market, the challenges of pursuing both financial and environmental sustainability, the late nights of reckoning with your values that make you consider shutting the whole thing down, and the rewarding moments that make it all worth it.

In addition, hear from experienced fashion industry resources that are helping indie designers make a difference and a profit – like low MOQ factories, fashion marketing and business coaches, or sustainable fabric suppliers.

How Fitting® offers validation that you are not alone in your fashion entrepreneurship experience, ideas to try on in your fashion business to create a better fit, and a curious look into how other slow fashion brands are making it work. How fitting is that?
131 Episodes
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We think that offering different sizes is serving our customers, but is it actually? Does standard sizing make it easier for the customer or does it just make it easier for the brand? Rick Levine and Steven Heard have thoughts.  They’ve each run multiple manufacturing businesses in different industries and are currently partners of the made-to-measure development and manufacturing studio ApparelWerks. No matter the business, their goal with product design, fit, and sizing has been the same: make each customer insanely happy. It impacts how they see production, technology, entrepreneurship, craftsmanship, customer relationships, and more. In episode 130, we cover it all. Steven and Rick were introduced when Rick was looking into body scanning for a problem his daughter, an engineer, was trying to solve. "There's a guy in Portland who's been making customized clothing for decades. He knows all about scanners and measurement." They discovered a shared appreciation for manufacturing technology, a fascination with old sewing machines, and a view that tech is only a means to an end; their past businesses were focused on making customers happy. Both were also looking for something new and interesting to do, and the result was starting ApparelWerks, a manufacturing and product development studio in Portland creating made-to-measure clothing. Steven Heard has decades of experience making clothing, starting at the Levi Strauss factory on Valencia Street in San Francisco, at a time when all patterns and samples for the company were still created there. He was a senior pattern-maker for Levi's Dockers brand, and went on to spearhead the world’s first large-scale bespoke jeans production, leveraging body scanning technology to craft custom jeans for thousands of consumers. He founded pattern service bureau Clinton Park, doing garment development and pattern work for numerous national and start-up brands, and developed a reputation for being the go-to patternmaker for denim development. He went on to found Japanese-inspired San Francisco denim and workwear brand Dillon Montara in 2014, and was the development and manufacturing partner behind Portland's Ship John brand. Rick Levine is the engineering black sheep in a family of artists. His father was a ceramist and designer, making and using tools to create mid-century ceramic tile and lamps on a large scale. Rick spent a lot of his time growing up around clay and machinery. Rick started his career as a producer and editor for film and video, and stepped sideways into programming tools and user interfaces for computer systems. He worked at Sun Microsystems early in its existence, and then at a series of start-ups. In 2006, Rick followed his interest in manufacturing automation to found chocolate brand Sun Cups. He repurposed industrial-scale chocolate techniques to create artisanal, organic, nut-free chocolates and made them available in thousands of stores. In 2013, he and his brother, designer Neil Levine, founded sock company XOAB, focusing on creating comfortable socks with a broad palette of Merino wool and Supima® cotton colors. They created a domestic supply chain, and used modified knitting machines and pattern analysis software to take new designs from sketch to shelf in less than a week, a capability unique in the hosiery industry.  This episode explores: Fitting the customer Why the garment won’t fit unless you’ve had a conversation with the customer The difference between solving fit for your brand versus solving fit for your customer The advantages and limitations of 3D body scanning for apparel development How they know when they got the fit right Fitting the lifestyle Scaling on-demand production How one-piece production flow changes the way you see efficiency How Rick’s and Steven’s background lead to their perspectives on manufacturing The tools Rick and Steven use to systemetize custom clothing Fitting the values Why there’s value in both craft and technology Why Rick has a “healthy disrespect” for tools People and resources mentioned in this episode: ApparelWerks website Dillon Montara website ApparelWerks Instagram Do you want fashion business tips and resources like this sent straight to your inbox? Sign up for the How Fitting newsletter to receive new podcast episodes plus daily content on creating fashion that fits your customer, lifestyle, and values.
As people in creative fields, many of us can look back and see how our activities and interests as a child led to the work we do today. We may have grown up and grown out of clothes along the way, but some things never change. Creativity and other values that are important to us show up in our adult life through our fashion businesses. This is certainly true for today’s guest Bergen Anderson. Her brand, Lilla Barn, makes colorful and sustainable clothes for kids and grownups alike. As a lifelong sewist, Bergen Anderson started Lilla Barn in order to make colorful, genderless, sustainable, baby clothes that stand out in a world of pinks and blues. In the last 12 years, she has grown her brand to include grown-up clothes, accessories, and homegoods including a storefront/studio in Andersonville, Illinois.  Inspired by visual artists who play with color and texture, her work is intended to bring joy, creativity, and individuality into everyday life. Bergen enjoys exploring the overlaps between traditional craft ("women's work"), modern textiles, and functional fine art. As a slow fashion advocate, she believes the personal is political and that our consumer habits and creating habits should align with our values.  This episode explores: Fitting the customer Why Bergen designs what she likes even though she is technically no longer her own target customer Bergen’s process for patternmaking and sizing and its pros and cons for fit Fitting the lifestyle The hardest part about hiring a small team for Lilla Barn The extent that creative habits are intertwined with personal and business lifestyles The projects Bergen wants to take on in her business once she has a bigger team How opening a retail space changed Lilla Barn’s business model Fitting the values How to communicate brand values in a way that is meaningful and relevant even as the broader culture changes around us People and resources mentioned in this episode: Lilla Barn website Lilla Barn email Lilla Barn Instagram Do you want fashion business tips and resources like this sent straight to your inbox? Sign up for the How Fitting newsletter to receive new podcast episodes plus daily content on creating fashion that fits your customer, lifestyle, and values.
Fashion expects a lot from designers. It expects you to release new collections at a set seasonal schedule. It expects you to just know the right people and know where to find a good production partner (because as you know, some of the best factories don’t even have websites). It expects you to show up on social media to sell. These expectations can run your life if you let them.  Dana Mortada doesn’t let them. She gave up the traditional wholesale calendar and the pressure that came with it. Her four-year-old brand, dal the label, now releases new capsules on a flexible schedule that works for her. In episode 128, Dana shares how far she’s come by following intention instead of expectations. dal the label is a California womenswear brand redefining modern luxury through elevated essentials. Founded by designer Dana Mortada, the brand focuses on timeless, ethical pieces designed in Los Angeles and made to be worn again and again. Each collection reflects a commitment to intentional design, quality craftsmanship, and a slower, more thoughtful way of dressing. This episode explores: Fitting the customer Why simple designs are harder to fit The marks of craftsmanship that Dana designs for and looks for in clothing Fitting the lifestyle Why Dana doesn’t want the traditional fashion calendar to run her life and instead releases capsules whenever she is ready What makes Dana say dal has come a long way since first launching in 2022 The biggest challenge Dana is trying to solve on the business side Why Dana moved some of her production overseas Fitting the values How long clothes last depends on the designer and the consumer How Dana answers the question of “does the world need another fashion brand?” based on her values People and resources mentioned in this episode: Dal the Label website Dal the Label email Dal the Label Instagram Do you want fashion business tips and resources like this sent straight to your inbox? Sign up for the How Fitting newsletter to receive new podcast episodes plus daily content on creating fashion that fits your customer, lifestyle, and values.
Changing algorithms, the constant time investment, and, with the rise of AI, even more content to compete with for customers’ attention make many of us want to avoid social media altogether. However, it can seem like a necessary evil. Isn’t every brand on social platforms? But what if staying off socials as a fashion brand isn’t just the right choice for your mental health as a founder, but also for your business strategy?  This is the choice that Maria Alejandra Alvarado has made for her luxury workwear brand ZADIMA. In episode 127, she shares how she’s connecting with people to market her brand instead of competing with algorithms. For Maria, it felt like a natural fit that aligns with her business.  María Alejandra Alvarado is a marketing leader with nearly 15 years of experience shaping brand and product launch strategies for global companies. For the past three years, she’s been building ZADIMA — a brand born from her desire to help modern professionals dress beautifully and intentionally, without adding more decisions to already full days.  Frustrated by the lack of color, personality, and quality in workwear, María set out to create pieces that combine great tailoring, elegant silhouettes, and luxurious Italian fabrics. Each garment is crafted from exquisite Italian deadstock textiles in a woman-owned atelier in Manhattan’s Garment District, designed to make women feel confident, polished, and effortlessly themselves. This episode explores: Fitting the customer The smart questions Maria asked while gathering customer research The ways that knowing her customer helped Maria make decisions about fabric, designs, and colors  Fitting the lifestyle How the lifestyle of the Zadima customer shaped the marketing strategy The practical ways Maria generates word-of-mouth referrals How Maria represents her brand as the founder How Maria prioritizes tasks in her business Fitting the values Why Maria decided to produce her collection in NY How Maria uses AI tools in alignment with her relationships and quality-focused business values People and resources mentioned in this episode: ZADIMA website ZADIMA email Maria’s LinkedIn Do you want fashion business tips and resources like this sent straight to your inbox? Sign up for the How Fitting newsletter to receive new podcast episodes plus daily content on creating fashion that fits your customer, lifestyle, and values.
In slow fashion, we like being intentional with our clothing choices. We want our wardrobes to be aligned with what we care about and how we live. It is a reassuring kind of intention. Then there is another type of intention that affects fashion founders – the way we intend things to go. We have intentions for the launch, product development timelines, or what it means to be a good founder. But as anyone who has started a business knows, things don’t always go quite as intended. So how do we balance intention and reality? In episode 126, ARIMMA founder Lucielle Salomon shares how she moved past her assumptions about what it means to be a founder and finally launched her brand. Through the process, she now sees fashion in a new light. Lucielle Salomon is a Dominican-American founder, fashion editor and storyteller advocating for a slower, more soulful approach to style and business. With a background in journalism and a sharp editorial eye, she blends thoughtful design with meaningful storytelling, inviting her audience to dress with intention, find beauty in the everyday and redefine what success looks like through a values-first lens.  She is the founder of ARIMMA, an on-demand women's wear brand rooted in romantic silhouettes, timeless details and environmental responsibility. Every piece is crafted only after it's ordered—minimizing waste, reducing overproduction and creating space for clothing to be made with care. ARIMMA designs use natural or low-impact materials and are constructed with durability, emotion and longevity in mind.  Through her Substack newsletter, Woven Letters, and growing digital platforms, Lucielle shares a curated blend of sustainable fashion finds, emerging brands, and everyday rituals—from what she's wearing to how she's slowing down. As a mother of two, she also explores the intersection of creativity, motherhood and entrepreneurship, offering a rare behind-the-scenes look at building a conscious business without burning out. Lucielle is available for interviews, panels, collaborations, and essays that explore the future of fashion, identity-driven entrepreneurship and intentional living.  This episode explores: Fitting the customer How Lucielle follows feelings, not trends with her designs The part of development that was the biggest challenge for Lucielle Fitting the lifestyle What Lucielle would do differently now if she was starting over How our mindset can hinder or help us in entrepreneurship What Lucielle thought a good founder lifestyle should look like and why that didn’t work for her Why Lucielle didn’t go all out for the launch Fitting the values How becoming a founder changed what Lucielle values about fashion Why Lucielle reached out to factories before she even had designs People and resources mentioned in this episode: Arimma website Arimma Instagram Lucielle’s Instagram Do you want fashion business tips and resources like this sent straight to your inbox? Sign up for the How Fitting newsletter to receive new podcast episodes plus daily content on creating fashion that fits your customer, lifestyle, and values.
Newness builds excitement, but consistency builds trust. Which one will get your brand to a decade in business? Erin Gray Morton just celebrated ten years of her gold-filled jewelry and premium tee shirt line erin gray. The brand has grown to being stocked in over 800 boutiques. To get there, Erin and her team have prioritized relationships while figuring out how to make each wholesale show feel new with basics products that are more timeless than trendy. In episode 125, hear the ways erin gray builds trust with customers and the boutiques that buy wholesale from them, how Erin keeps herself from a lifestyle of overworking even when she loves what she does, and how Erin structured the business model and pricing from the very beginning to allow giving back to causes she values. erin gray is a female-owned and operated brand from Atlanta designing elevated essentials with a touch of luxury. Their customers primarily love them for two things: their cult-favorite Pima cotton tees and refined tops that offer high-end style at accessible prices and our 14k gold-filled waterproof jewelry, which wears like solid gold without the high cost. Erin built this brand from the ground up and the brand is now featured in more than 800 boutiques nationwide. Giving back is our heart - Erin lost her mother to cancer, so supporting cancer research is at the core. The atmosphere at erin gray's Atlanta warehouse is fun, respectful, flexible, family-oriented and customer-focused. The team gets things done without compromising the things and people who matter to them the most. This episode explores: Fitting the customer The ways erin gray builds trust with customers and the boutiques that buy wholesale from them The effort that went into developing the best basic white tee (because simple is never simple!) How erin gray creates newness at each wholesale market with a basic, timeless product Why Erin thinks wholesale shows will never go away Fitting the lifestyle What they did differently when erin gray introduced apparel alongside their jewelry line How Erin keeps herself from overworking even when she loves what she does How Erin has expanded her team over the years The benefits of a long wholesale design and development calendar What to do when you get bored of your product before it even launches Fitting the values How Erin structured the business model and pricing from the very beginning to allow giving back to causes she values Ways your business can give back to causes you care about beyond cash donations Why customer service is so important for the success of erin gray  People and resources mentioned in this episode: Erin Gray website Erin Gray email Erin Gray Instagram Erin’s LinkedIn Do you want fashion business tips and resources like this sent straight to your inbox? Sign up for the How Fitting newsletter to receive new podcast episodes plus daily content on creating fashion that fits your customer, lifestyle, and values.
In an industry obsessed with outward appearances, what if we made decisions by listening to our body and not just looking at it? If clothing choices came from a place of self-awareness, how would that change the way we design products and run fashion businesses? Victoria Lister approaches her work from this perspective. In episode 124, she shares what made her start listening to her body and what that has meant for her underwear and lounge brand Hummingbird Pie. Victoria is the founder and owner-operator of Hummingbird Pie, an Australian-based, micro-business that has supplied women with luxe, everyday basics since 2015. The business was born from Victoria's personal quest to solve the problem of thigh chafing without resorting to shapewear – a challenge that led her to create Hummingbird Pie’s flagship product, long-legged underpants known as ‘Longerpants’.  Today, the range has expanded to include outer as well as underwear, designed to help women of all ages, stages, shapes and sizes to feel at home in themselves – not reshaped, but supported, relaxed and free to be. Hummingbird Pie fits in and around Victoria's work as a researcher, with the help of her wonderful husband and two dear friends who work casually on different aspects of business, and local suppliers and manufacturers.  This episode explores: Fitting the customer How the Hummingbird Pie target customer has expanded since the start of the business The mindset that unites Hummingbird Pie customers What makes Hummingbird Pie garments different The relationship Victoria wants her customers to have with Hummingbird Pie clothes Fitting the lifestyle The challenges of scaling a cottage business Why new products don’t always start with design What gave Victoria the courage to start a business The behind the scenes lifestyle that supports Victoria’s business Fitting the values How Victoria’s self-awareness and valuing her body influences her approach to design Why Victoria prefers working with other collaborators instead of learning how to do everything herself People and resources mentioned in this episode: Hummingbird Pie website Hummingbird Pie email Hummingbird Pie Instagram Victoria’s LinkedIn Do you want fashion business tips and resources like this sent straight to your inbox? Sign up for the How Fitting newsletter to receive new podcast episodes plus daily content on creating fashion that fits your customer, lifestyle, and values.
We talk about how timeless fashion lets us build sustainable wardrobes. What if the benefits of timelessness weren’t confined to our customers’ closets? Today’s guest, Gabriela Garcia Olivo, found that her timeless designs helped her build a more sustainable business. Her story is one of resilience, refinement, and reflection. In episode 123, she shares her perspective on what it takes and why it is worth it to build a fashion brand. Gabriela Garcia Olivo is the founder and creative director of Gabriela Michele, a timeless women’s clothing brand inspired by the elegance of 1950s fashion and the captivating spirit of Latin American women. Born from a desire to celebrate feminine sophistication in everyday life, her brand merges vintage glamour with modern craftsmanship. With a commitment to quality, her collections feature natural fabrics, tailored fits, and thoughtful details that invite women to embrace their confidence and femininity. This episode explores: Fitting the customer  Why Gabriela does not use herself as the fit model even though she is her target market The surprising demographic of women who resonate with her brand The two things that have made the biggest difference in finding her customers and growing the brand Fitting the lifestyle How long it took from idea to launch The aspects of vintage style that Gabriela has carried into her designs Why Gabriela paused her brand twice since initially launching What kept Gabriela going when sales were slow and burnout was looming How Gabriela balances ambition with realistic expectations for her business Fitting the values How Gabriela found a factory and patternmaker that she trusts  How timeless style has led to a timeless business People and resources mentioned in this episode: Gabriela Michele website Gabriela Michele Instagram Gabriela Michele email Do you want fashion business tips and resources like this sent straight to your inbox? Sign up for the How Fitting newsletter to receive new podcast episodes plus daily content on creating fashion that fits your customer, lifestyle, and values.
Emily Harris started out as a designer of clothes, but recently, she says she’s become more of a designer of supply chains. Over the fifteen years since starting her brand Mrs. Emily, Emily has produced her signature elastic-waist skirts in different ways – sewing them herself to order, working with a seamstress to stock a retail location, and now working with a fair trade mill and sewing studio to produce inventory. Her product has gotten even more beautifully simple, but the logistics have gotten far more complex.  In episode 122, Emily candidly shares how her target customer has grown as she and her business have, how her change in lifestyle required a change in manufacturing, and why play and personal style are necessities in her work and business. Emily is a fashion designer, wife, and mom based in Champaign, Illinois. She studied fashion design at Southern Illinois University as a newlywed, and after graduating, she and her husband moved to New York City, where she worked for bridal designer Amsale Aberra. In 2010, Emily launched her own brand as a way to grow her design career while staying present with her young family.  After years of creating custom garments made to clients’ measurements, Emily developed a proprietary size chart and began manufacturing with small, family-run workshops in India and Bangladesh—workshops where she has personal relationships and deep trust. These teams produce extraordinary work and provide fair wages, healthcare, and childcare to their employees.  Now, 15 years into her brand and 14 years into motherhood, Emily continues to design every piece from her home studio. Her business has been shaped by a desire to live fully in all her roles: as a mother, a wife, and a designer. This episode explores: Fitting the customer How her target customer has grown as Emily and her business have How Emily decides what skirts to offer each season How Emily balances the technical, quantitative feedback with personal, qualitative feedback as she designs The ways that Mrs. Emily products have been simplified – and the work that has gone into doing so Fitting the lifestyle The lifestyle that inspired her signature elastic-waist skirts How Mrs. Emily has changed as Emily’s daily lifestyle has changed over the years  Why Emily describes her role as being a designer of supply chains, not just a designer of clothes What kept Emily going when everything in her business felt heavy and stressful Fitting the values What made Emily look at her product more seriously The thing that really fuels inspiration Why fair trade manufacturing is so important to Emily Why play and personal style are necessities in Emily’s work and business People and resources mentioned in this episode: Mrs. Emily website Mrs. Emily Instagram Emily’s email Mrs. Emily LinkedIn Emily on How Fitting episode 9 Jackie of Motif Handmade on How Fitting episode 120 Do you want fashion business tips and resources like this sent straight to your inbox? Sign up for the How Fitting newsletter to receive new podcast episodes plus daily content on creating fashion that fits your customer, lifestyle, and values.
Michelle Dwight has a notebook of what she calls weird and wonderful ideas. These ideas become convertible dresses and swimwear for curvy women. She started her brand, Aulieude, as a young designer wanting stylish, sustainable fashion. As her business has grown, she’s learned to apply her creativity to her business and not just her designs. As she’s grown too, she’s decided what things are and are not worth compromising. In episode 121, hear how the Aulieude customer has grown up as Michelle has, how Michelle’s lifestyle has played into her business decisions over the years, and why business values are extra important when you are ready to scale. As a girl, Michelle loved creating beauty from the found materials around her. Often shopping clothes to sew into something new and pattern making from intuition on her spotlight mannequin with A4 printer paper and sticky tape. She made platform shoes in woodwork, leather working, making corsetry, consistently fascinated by the construction of various mediums. Michelle would dress her sister and her friends up in her creations and emulate vogue editorial shoots with an old SLR camera and a vision.  Aulieude was founded in 2017 by our then 23 year old Designer, Michelle Dwight, making dresses from her bedroom. After studying at Sydney’s Fashion Design Studio and working in the Fast fashion industry, Michelle grew tired of flimsy garments and wanted to craft quality fits that would be loved over a lifetime.  Passionate about sustainability, she set out to create conscious clothing that didn’t compromise on style. In lieu of (‘Au Lieu De’) shapeless eco fashion on the market, Michelle took pride in carefully constructing flattering feminine silhouettes that celebrated a woman’s curves – designing adjustable and multiway pieces that tailor to the wearer’s unique shape and style.   Gaining a loyal following in the Market stalls of Sydney and Melbourne, Aulieude transitioned to selling exclusively online. They have since proudly expanded their size range, introduced original prints and formal wear as well as their most recent category, Swim! Every Aulieude garment is pattern made by hand in Michelle’s Melbourne Studio by the designer herself. Aulieude samples are made for Michelle’s curvy body and she fits each creation on models of various sizes to make sure that the quality and fit of the pieces are absolutely perfect for you.   Michelle, now 32, is continually inspired by the wonderful community of women Aulieude has garnered. Strong, caring women who own their femininity and deserve to be supported and empowered. Engaging with and serving this community brings so much joy and fulfilment that continues to inspire the collections to come. This episode explores: Fitting the customer Who Michelle designs for What Michelle learned about her customers at markets The new “risky” category that Aulieude recently added Why Alieude changed how its pieces are sized Fitting the lifestyle How much Michelle saved up to start Aulieude and fund her first production run  The big mistake Michelle made when she attended her first market How Michelle’s lifestyle has played into her business decisions The reason Michelle didn’t want to be the face of Aulieude initially and what changed her mind How Michelle has grown as her business has Fitting the values Why values are super important when you are ready to scale your business An aspect of sustainability that many fashion founders overlook Why Michelle travels to visit her factory (it is NOT to check in on production) People and resources mentioned in this episode: Aulieude website Aulieude Instagram Aulieude email Do you want fashion business tips and resources like this sent straight to your inbox? Sign up for the How Fitting newsletter to receive new podcast episodes plus daily content on creating fashion that fits your customer, lifestyle, and values.
In today’s world, technology has woven its way into nearly every aspect of our lives and work. The fashion industry is always looking for ways to make things faster and automate work that always used to be done by humans – but not Jackie. She’s been working with hand weavers in Bangladesh for over three decades and is more passionate about the future of fair trade, hand-crafted fabrics than ever. Jackie teaches designers how to design their own handwoven fabrics and helps them get their textiles made through her business Motif Handmade.  In episode 120, Jackie shares how designing your own handwoven textiles is more accessible to you as an independent designer than you might realize, how she’s seen fair trade sourcing change lives, and the value that threads through all of Jackie’s work. Jackie Corlett is the founder of Motif Handmade, a Brit who swapped the rolling hills of England for decades in vibrant Bangladesh, and now calls the wide-open prairies of Illinois home. As a textile designer, Jackie’s lifelong passion is for handcrafted fabrics and the remarkable artisans who bring them to life. Over the years, she’s helped students, designers and brands weave artisanal goods into their collections, creating beauty with purpose.  Today, through her course KIND FABRIC, Jackie’s mission is to empower designers with the skills and confidence to develop their own fair trade certified, custom fabrics and finished goods. She believes sourcing can be 100% transparent, giving you 100% peace of mind. From fibre to fabric to finished product, Jackie champions a world where creativity isn’t just about making things ... it’s about making a difference. This episode explores: Fitting the customer Why handwoven textiles are more accessible to you as an independent designer than you might realize The two big shifts that have accelerated the demand and accessibility of fair trade textiles over Jackie’s career Fitting the lifestyle What captured Jackie’s interest back in 1989 that started her on the path towards the work she is doing today How fair trade sourcing changes us as designers  How long it takes to design your own handwoven fabrics and get them made How the MOQs and cost of handwoven fabrics compare to other fabric options Fitting the values The thing that matters most to Jackie in her work Why creating products with integrity is easier now than ever before The ways that Fast Fashion mindsets creep into our work The real impact of fair trade People and resources mentioned in this episode: Motif Handmade website Motif Handmade Instagram Jackie’s email Jackie’s LinkedIn Kind Fabric course Previous How Fitting guests who use Motif fabrics in their collection: Mrs. Emily and Glean & Grace Cyclo recycled fiber yarns Plaidmaker plaid design tool Future Fabrics Expo Do you want fashion business tips and resources like this sent straight to your inbox? Sign up for the How Fitting newsletter to receive new podcast episodes plus daily content on creating fashion that fits your customer, lifestyle, and values.
Luxury doesn’t always look like designer clothes, high heels, and a “dream” fashion job in NYC. Sometimes it looks more like quiet morning moments getting ready for a big day, hand-stitched embroidery on a vintage table linen, and barefoot commutes to a home office in a Spanish apartment. Christine Lindebak has always appreciated these small details. With her bridal loungewear brand, Lindy Lindy, she has leaned into these details even more. Each piece is crafted using vintage textiles that share a luxurious story of their own. In episode 119, hear why her lounge and sleepwear designs were a perfect fit for brides, how Christine’s identity and lifestyle massively changed when she quit corporate, and the ways that Christine has considered scaling that align with her values. Christine Lindebak is a fashion industry veteran, having worked for Emilio Pucci, Mulberry, and Alexis Bittar. She is the founder of Lindy Lindy, creating bespoke homewear from vintage Spanish linens for brides seeking one-of-a-kind getting-ready attire. Christine is also the force behind Sewing and the City, selling fashion sewing patterns online and in shops around the globe and inspiring people of all ages to sew their own clothes.  This episode explores: Fitting the customer Why the bridal loungewear market organically fit Lindy Lindy How Lindy Lindy’s niche made marketing easier for Christine How Lindy Lindy pieces are sized Christine’s approach to pricing her pieces Fitting the lifestyle How Christine landed her first wholesale partnership Why Christine quit her “dream” career in luxury retail How Christine’s identity and lifestyle massively changed when she quit corporate Fitting the values The reason behind Christine’s premium sewing construction choices How the textiles themselves shape Lindy Lindy designs How Christine’s values play out in the day to day operations of Lindy Lindy The ways that Christine has considered scaling that fit her values People and resources mentioned in this episode: Lindy Lindy website Lindy Lindy Instagram Sewing In The City website Do you want fashion business tips and resources like this sent straight to your inbox? Sign up for the How Fitting newsletter to receive new podcast episodes plus daily content on creating fashion that fits your customer, lifestyle, and values.
Rose and Doug Phillips asked: “how can we spend every day, together, doing what we love?” Their answer was Conscious Clothing. For two decades they built their business on this premise - even building the gorgeous, sun-filled Michigan studio where their team of ten designs and makes each piece of organic and natural fiber clothing.  Things haven’t always been dreamy, though. As the brand grew, work started to creep into the weekends. The pandemic hit. Then Doug lost his life and business partner. But, the heartfelt vision for Conscious Clothing remained. In this interview, Doug and General Manager Liz DeBraber share how they’re intentionally restructuring the business for the sake of themselves, their team, and their customers. Doug Phillips is the owner of Conscious Clothing, an organic and natural fiber clothing company based in the Grand Rapids Michigan area. While navigating the challenges of designing and manufacturing in the US for over 23 years against a flood of cheap clothing imports, a mission was born. Exemplifying how a better way is possible by supporting local and organic is better for people and the planet. Doug hopes everyone realizes their power to create change with the purchase power they have and the brands they choose to support. This episode explores: Fitting the customer How Liz is completely revamping Conscious Clothing’s pattern library to better fit their customers The process behind extending their sizing from XS-XL to XS-6X.  How their small team things about customer service Fitting the lifestyle How founders Doug and Rose built the business from the ground up to realize the life they wanted together What they changed to keep the growing business from taking over their life How a years-long season of grief forced Doug to make big changes in the business Why sustainability is just as much about the lifestyle of the team than it is about the products they are making How they are balancing R&D with production Fitting the values Why organic and natural fibers and made-in-USA production are important to Conscious Clothing How the industry and consumer values about organic clothing has changed over the 20+ years they’ve been in business Why Doug is happy that Conscious Clothing is not as unique as it once was People and resources mentioned in this episode: Conscious Clothing website Conscious Clothing Instagram Fox fiber® - breeder and grower of organic, naturally colored cotton Do you want fashion business tips and resources like this sent straight to your inbox? Sign up for the How Fitting newsletter to receive new podcast episodes plus daily content on creating fashion that fits your customer, lifestyle, and values.
Work smarter, not harder. That is what the high achieving women who wear Luxeire’s technical tailored button-ups are doing and what mother-daughter co-founders Gina Kuyers and Margot Adams do in their business as well. (Okay, sometimes they are working smart and hard). In just five years, they’ve grown the brand to 7 figures. They’re self-funding the business and the growth hasn’t come without risks. They’ve learned to experiment quickly and have found what investments pay off for them and which don’t. Their whole business is built for problem solving. In episode 117, Gina and Margot share how they’ve focused Luxeire’s marketing and ad strategy around what matters most to their customers, how they take risks without jeopardizing their family life, and why producing in New York city fits their business values. Gina Kuyers: Co-Founder and CEO The idea for Luxeire emerged from founder Gina Kuyers’ frustration with the discomfort and high maintenance of beautiful clothing. Gina, unable to find any brands that offered the perfect fit, decided to take matters into her own hands and create one. With a 20-year career and a PhD in school psychology, Gina had spent decades applying research to real-world problem solving. She used this expertise to identify a significant gap in the fashion industry: the lack of stylish, comfortable, and low-maintenance clothing that fits perfectly. Motivated by her own experiences and the needs of countless others, Gina set out to create Luxeire. Gina’s meticulous approach to research and problem-solving has been instrumental in the development of Luxeire's unique product line. She has leveraged her analytical skills to source the finest materials and employ innovative design techniques that ensure each piece is both functional and beautiful. Luxeire’s wardrobe staples are a testament to Gina’s commitment to quality, comfort, and sustainability, offering a perfect fit for modern lifestyles. Luxeire stands as a testament to her dedication to solving everyday problems with elevated, practical solutions. Margot Adams: Co-Founder and Head of Marketing and Sales In December 2020, Margot Adams, Gina’s daughter, joined Luxeire as the dynamic head of marketing and sales. Serving as the driving force behind the brand’s direct-to-consumer launch, Margot's leadership has been instrumental in reshaping Luxeire’s market approach. Margot attended the prestigious Parsons School of Design in New York City, where she immersed herself in business design with a special focus on marketing and sustainability. While at Parsons, she honed her creative skills and developed a keen eye for aesthetics and trends. Her time as a marketing assistant and stylist for Sarah Flint further enriched her understanding of the fashion world, allowing her to blend practical experience with academic knowledge. This background has been instrumental in shaping Luxeire’s brand identity, infusing it with innovative marketing strategies and a strong emphasis on sustainable practices. Margot’s creative vision and strategic insight have been pivotal in elevating Luxeire's market presence, ensuring the brand resonates with contemporary consumers who value both style and sustainability. Her ability to merge creative artistry with business insights continues to be a driving force behind Luxeire’s success. This episode explores: Fitting the customer Who the Luxeire customer is The problems with classic tailoring that Gina and Margot set out to solve How Margot focused Luxeire’s whole marketing and ad strategy around what matters most to their customers Why it all started with a problem and one special fabric Fitting the lifestyle How Gina and Margot take risks without jeopardizing their family life Gina and Margot’s vision for success  What Gina’s business plan looked like when she first started versus now What has worked and not worked for Luxeire when it comes to hiring help Fitting the values Why producing in New York city fits Luxeire’s business values What sustainability looks like in Luxeire’s products and business People and resources mentioned in this episode: Luxeire website Luxeire Instagram Do you want fashion business tips and resources like this sent straight to your inbox? Sign up for the How Fitting newsletter to receive new podcast episodes plus daily content on creating fashion that fits your customer, lifestyle, and values.
If you’ve ever dreamed of having your products in stores but are hesitant to dip your toes into retail because of high overhead, lower wholesale margins, or lack of retail experience, Elizabeth Solomeina has a solution. In episode 116, Elizabeth shares her refreshingly different approach to retail. Her multi-city retail space and press showroom, Flying Solo, is designed just for independent designers to grow their brands and community. It is a collaborative retail space where designers get to control how their collection is presented, get feedback directly from customers, and make higher margins without the traditionally long wholesale lead times. Elizabeth Solomeina is the co-founder of Flying Solo, a revolutionary fashion retail and PR platform based in New York and Paris. With a background in design and entrepreneurship, Elizabeth has built one of the most influential independent fashion platforms in the world — supporting thousands of emerging brands over the years and redefining how fashion reaches the market. This episode explores: Fitting the customer Who the Flying Solo customer is How Flying Solo presents diverse designers, collections, fits, and sizing cohesively to customers The future of retail amidst today’s gloomy retail headlines Fitting the lifestyle What Elizabeth and her team look in the designer they stock How brands can best prepare for a successful retail experience How creatives can thrive by working together How Flying Solo’s retail model gives so much more freedom and flexibility to designers Fitting the values Why Elizabeth believes so strongly in the value of collaboration and community The benefits of creative experimentation for designers People and resources mentioned in this episode: Flying Solo website Flying Solo Instagram Elizabeth’s LinkedIn Do you want fashion business tips and resources like this sent straight to your inbox? Sign up for the How Fitting newsletter to receive new podcast episodes plus daily content on creating fashion that fits your customer, lifestyle, and values.
When your brand focuses on a specific body shape, creating clothes that fit is fairly easy. But what if you are designing for specific psychographics instead of demographics? What does fit look like then? Heidi Keil is the founder of Humble Hearts Clergy Apparel. She designs clothes for female pastors and chaplains – which is super niched on both faith values and vocation, not necessarily body type. Manufacturing clothes and a business that fits has been a prayer-filled journey for Heidi, but she serves in this way because she loves it. In episode 115, hear how Heidi arrived at a size chart and a size range that fits the pastors she serves, why Heidi started Humble Hearts as a business but it’s turned into more of a hobby within her lifestyle, and how Heidi’s faith values and favorite bible verse inspire her humble approach to running her brand. Heidi began designing clergy apparel, at the request of her pastor, when she was a student in an Apparel Design program. It was something Heidi continued to offer, somewhat sporadically, while working in the costume shop at The Guthrie Theater following graduation. When the theater closed due to the pandemic in 2020 she turned her time and attention to creating a line of clergy apparel (mainly due to her own need for something to fill her time). Gradually, with the help of family, friends, past instructors and work contacts she slowly developed an online presence. Humble Hearts Clergy Apparel is in its 5th year.   Where does the name come from? "...live a life worthy of the calling you have received. Be completely humble and gentle; be patient, bearing with one another in love." Ephesians 4:1-2 Heidi shares: "This small business has been a wonderful way to blend my interest in fashion and apparel design with my faith." This episode explores: Fitting the customer The number of  iterations it took to get the Humble Hearts size chart and size range right The things Heidi had to learn when she switched from her costume shop job to manufacturing clothing for Humble Hearts How Heidi learned what details and functionality are important for clergy apparel What changed when Heidi realized she didn’t have to do everything herself Fitting the lifestyle Why Humble Hearts started out as a business and has now become more of a hobby for Heidi How Heidi’s season of life allows her the time flexibility to run Humble Hearts  How those around Heidi support her in this business The activity that has the biggest impact on sales for Humble Hearts Fitting the values Heidi’s humble approach to running her brand How the liturgical calendar affects Humble Hearts’ selling season How Heidi’s work with Humble Hearts serves a greater purpose People and resources mentioned in this episode: Humble Hearts Clergy Apparel website Humble Hearts Clergy Apparel Instagram Heidi’s email Do you want fashion business tips and resources like this sent straight to your inbox? Sign up for the How Fitting newsletter to receive new podcast episodes plus daily content on creating fashion that fits your customer, lifestyle, and values.
What would you be willing to do to better serve your customers and mission? Paloma Soledad, a three-time stage IV cancer survivor and founder of LuxCare, is making some big changes in her business to help women going through medical treatments feel more like themselves and less like a patient. In episode 114, she tells the careful details and entrepreneurial journey that has gone into creating LuxCare’s stylish and medically accessible clothing. Paloma Soledad is a fashion designer and three-time cancer survivor. Inspired by her journey with stage IV cancer, Paloma created LuxCare, a gifting platform, and line of clothing designed to help individuals facing medical challenges feel more like themselves. LuxCare offers adaptive garments, including headscarves for those experiencing hair loss, and versatile clothing that blends comfort, style, and medical functionality. Her brand focuses on sustainability, timeless styles, custom prints, and high-quality fabrics. Paloma's career highlights include designing for films such as "Coraline," receiving the "Best Emerging Designer" award at Portland Fashion Week, and being named one of Entertainment Weekly’s “Eight Costume Designers turned Fashion Headliner.” Her work has appeared in SPIN Magazine, L'Officiel, Photobook Magazine, and on electronic billboards in Times Square. With a commitment to slow fashion and environmental sustainability, LuxCare uses certified organic fabrics and continually seeks innovative materials. Paloma's designs are crafted to uplift and empower, offering both comfort and elegance. Raised in Hawaii, her design aesthetics were shaped by the natural wonders around her, instilling a deep respect for the planet's limited resources. Mostly self-taught, she learned from her mother as a child and honed her skills on the job. Today, Paloma seamlessly integrates beauty and craftsmanship into her fashion projects, significantly enriching the lives of those she designs for. This episode explores: Fitting the customer The LuxCare clothing details that made Paloma feel less like a cancer patient The thoughtful details from design to packaging that provide care to each customer How Paloma knew that it was time for a rebrand What Paloma wished she’d thought about before choosing a brand name Why gifting is a big part of the LuxCare brand Fitting the lifestyle The mental shifts needed to go from making everything yourself to producing at a factory How Paloma moved from costuming in the film industry to designing fashion apparel What Paloma had to learn when she transitioned from designer to entrepreneur Fitting the values Why Paloma compromised on her values to better serve LuxCare’s mission People and resources mentioned in this episode: LuxCare website LuxCare Instagram Paloma’s LinkedIn FabScrap - textile reuse and recycling Do you want fashion business tips and resources like this sent straight to your inbox? Sign up for the How Fitting newsletter to receive new podcast episodes plus daily content on creating fashion that fits your customer, lifestyle, and values.
We’ve all been burned by an online clothing purchase that didn’t live up to its promised fit and quality. It is no wonder that women who don’t fit standard-size charts are hesitant to purchase from a new brand online. This is the challenge that AAM The Label CEO and founder Neha Samdaria has overcome within her brand that designs for pear-shaped women with fuller hips and thighs. In episode 113, Neha shares exactly what she did to build trust with her customers and factory, keep return rates super low, get stocked in Nordstrom, and have Buzzfeed and Forbes editors writing raving reviews. Neha Samdaria is the founder of Aam The Label, a sustainable fashion brand for the ~25% of women with fuller hips and thighs than the standard size chart. Founded based on her own experience as a pear-shaped woman and bootstrapped entirely from her savings, the brand is now available at Nordstrom and has been featured in Forbes and Cosmopolitan. Neha holds an MBA from Stanford and a Bachelor's In Science from Caltech. This episode explores: Fitting the customer How Neha created her own unique size chart for AAM The Label that focuses on body shape more than size How Neha conducts fit testing to make sure she gets the best fit for her brand and not just the individual fit models How AAM The Label got placement in Nordstrom Fitting the lifestyle The exact things Neha did to build trust with customers online How AAM The Label had to adjust to make wholesale work Neha’s original goals and timeline for business success and how her goals are different now The pros and cons of retail and wholesale The biggest mistake Neha made starting out Fitting the values What AAM’s values of fit, quality, and sustainability & ethics look like in practice How Neha found her factory, patternmaker, designer, and sample makers People and resources mentioned in this episode: AAM The Label website  AAM The Label Instagram AAM The Label email Neha’s LinkedIn AAM The Label on Faire - wholesale marketplace Traction: How Any Startup Can Achieve Explosive Customer Growth book by Gabriel Weinberg and Justin Mares Do you want fashion business tips and resources like this sent straight to your inbox? Sign up for the How Fitting newsletter to receive new podcast episodes plus daily content on creating fashion that fits your customer, lifestyle, and values.
What if clothes not only reflected the beauty and personality of the wearer, but brought together the skills, people, and livelihoods of a whole community? This is why Kristina Collins is passionate about producing her brand of jackets and sweaters in the USA as locally as possible. In episode 112, hear how she has focused her creativity and her sourcing to connect the community around her. This priority brings challenges, but also many opportunities to her fashion business. Kristina shares her transparent philosophy as well as her tips for brands wanting to set up a local supply chain of their own. Kristina Collins clothing is women's jackets, blazers, and sweaters designed and made in the USA. Our mission is stand-out, high-quality garments that are sourced and made with our local community at heart. This episode explores: Fitting the customer Why made in the USA is important to Kristina and her brand Why Kristina narrowed her offerings to just jackets and sweaters The dilemma with pricing products as a small brand Fitting the lifestyle & business How Kristina Collins navigates the seasonality of a Fall/Winter focused brand How Kristina is adjusting her design and production schedules to accommodate wholesale in 2025 The production model that is working for Kristina Collins Why Kristina recommends working with individuals instead of a full-package factory or agency when developing your brands first products Fitting the values The challenges and benefits of fitting your values in your fashion business How to make local manufacturing and production connections The types of fabrics and fibers that are easy to source in the USA Whether sample sales or resale hurt a brand’s reputation People and resources mentioned in this episode: Kristina Collins website Kristina Collins Instagram Kristina Collins LinkedIn Do you want fashion business tips and resources like this sent straight to your inbox? Sign up for the How Fitting newsletter to receive new podcast episodes plus daily content on creating fashion that fits your customer, lifestyle, and values.
More and more in today’s fashion industry, women are the ones in charge and designing for themselves instead of for some unrealistic societal ideal. Kimberly Becker is doing this and going a step further for women’s rights with her brand K. Becker. In episode 111, hear how politics, feminism, and sustainability guide her work and how she’s using fashion to give back to causes that support women across the globe. Kimberly started this journey as a Textile Major at RISD. After graduating, she worked in the garment district of Manhattan for about a decade off and on – beginning at Liz Claiborne, and then moving to upholstery fabric design, always focused on designing the fabrics. Kimberly’s time at Liz Claiborne gave her priceless experience, both about how the business was run and also in getting exposure to the suppliers and manufacturers from around the world.  Fast forward 25 years and she is creating art focused on women's rights. Her House Dresses and Dolls for Change were both discussions about how women are still facing an uphill battle in the world. Someone asked her why she wasn't designing clothing. They loved the way the dolls Kimberly was making were dressed. It took about 6 months for Kimberly to find the courage to try. That decision was life-changing. She’s one year in and the brand is settling into the collection and message she feels fits what she was aiming for.  K.Becker is a collection of sustainable pretty things that fit and flatters real women's bodies. Empowering women is vital. When we feel beautiful we are a force. All clothing is sewn in NYC, and knit in Brooklyn and the company is an all-women team. Kimberly donates 5% of all profits to women-focused causes.  In this episode, you’ll learn: The two sides of feminism in fashion and where Kimberly sees both in the industry today How politics and women’s rights activism sparked the idea for K. Becker Why Kimberly moved away from describing her brand as petite The thing that Kimberly asks her focus groups of women to bring The balance between being too corporate and too personal as a brand The core message and values that guide K. Becker How Kimberly met her factory and patternmaker The importance of consistency Why Kimberly doesn’t like to use blended fiber materials How Kimberly’s background in textiles influences her fabric and apparel design decisions People and resources mentioned in this episode: K. Becker website (use code "Fitting20" for a 20% discount!) K. Becker Instagram Kimberly’s email Kimberly’s LinkedIn Jane Hamill - Fashion Brain Academy - fashion business coach Do you want fashion business tips and resources like this sent straight to your inbox? Sign up for the How Fitting newsletter to receive new podcast episodes plus daily content on creating fashion that fits your customer, lifestyle, and values.
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