the fashion archives

this is miuccia’s world—we’re just here to decode it welcome to vita prada : my new series digging into the woman who changed the rules of fashion: miuccia prada. this isn’t just another brand story, t’s about how miuccia flipped an old-school family business into a global empire while staying ten steps ahead of the culture. episode one starts at the beginning: miuccia in the 70s, balancing politics, performance art, and a serious love for fashion (but pretending she didn’t). we’ll unpack how she took something as basic as nylon and turned it into luxury, and why her way of thinking still shapes the industry today. book https://bit.ly/411YGCP don't listen to anything im saying don't buy anything im wearing im lost too  ⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠INSTAGRAM ⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠       ⁠⁠⁠⁠TIKTOK⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠        ⁠⁠⁠⁠DISCORD

margiela just did the unthinkable: a celebrity face. miley cyrus. shot by paolo roversi. it reads like a commercial until you actually look at the pictures. they’re stripped back, almost ascetic. not pop-star gloss—image as study. and the paint on her skin isn’t theatrics; it’s bianchetto, the maison’s white-overpaint usually reserved for shoes, bags, even furniture—applied so wear and time become part of the design. now it’s on a body. the star becomes ground primer surface. suddenly you’re reading line the curve of a tabi the geometry of a 5ac not “miley.”i respect miley; she’s one of the few who actually knows how to rebrand without begging for redemption arcs. she treats brand like a medium —build strip build again which makes her a sharp match for margiela’s long game of transformation. roversi’s language helps: soft focus + long exposures + painterly light that dissolves edges. it turns fame down to a hum so the house codes can speak. this is a campaign that will divide and maybe that's intentional.and yes: margiela has been the house of anti-celebrity for decades. anonymity is a value here not a gimmick -------- masks and/or makeup and/or veils from the start + faces blurred so the clothes take center stage.a “first-ever face” is a big deal culturally and let me tell you the purists ARE LIVID!!! from my end - not being a purist myself - I believe that a fashion brand as a business has the need and responsibility to adapt to the times they're operating in and in this ECONOMY come on. MILEY OR NOT MILEY this campaign is great and roversi is always an incredible choice.FIND ME HERE ‪https://www.instagram.com/chez.amelie/FIND THE POD ON YT AND SUBSTI and rate it for the love of gods of fashion!!!!

Glenn Martens’ highly anticipated debut as the creative lead of Maison Margiela’s Artisanal line during the Fall 2025 Haute Couture season IS HERE yayyyyyyyyyyyyyGlenn - best known for his work at Y/Project and Diesel, has officially stepped into one of the most challenging roles in fashion — continuing the legacy of Martin Margiela. Here a little reaction video and first impressionsssss! I missed these eps too XDDDDFIND ME HERE https://www.instagram.com/chez.amelieALSO HEREhttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Jlxm4NT7IucGRAB YOUR DRINK OF CHOICEEEEEEEE!!!!!!!!!

someone in my comment section said he’s “the man who turns water into perfume.” add to that: the liaison between vision and visibility. In this episode of the fashion archives podcast Lucien Pagès breaks down how perception becomes product, how to turn noise into meaning — and how to get invited to a fashion show (the most asked question in my dms I swear!!!!!)topics we got into:– pivoting from design to PR and reframing ambition– some brands are rich in sales but poor in story (and viceversa): how does PR balance that?– sacai and the reality of avantgarde fashion– designers as content creators– people sneaking into fashion shows– PR blacklisting — spoiler: it’s real– the industry’s obsession with romanticizing young male couturiers– and the question no one wants to ask: do we really need more fashion brands?the production quality of this episode is T-R-A-S-H (we had so many hiccups!). the conversation isn’t :)))full episode out now literally everywhere youtube substack spotify apple podcasts!!!find lucien here:https://www.instagram.com/lucienpages/find me here:https://www.instagram.com/chez.amelie/https://thefashionarchives.substack.com/https://podcasts.apple.com/us/podcast/the-fashion-archives/id1764314268SAVE PRINT BY BUYING COOL FASHION BOOKS https://bit.ly/3G1ExEY

the girls who lit their clothes on fire and built a cult around it.In this episode of the fashion archives I sit down with Cosima from Ottolinger — the berlin-based fashion label known for deconstruction, ceramic bags, and pure creative chaos.we talk about:– how they built a brand that's niche but has international appeal – the fashion scene as a niche brand in paris and in berlin – that ceramic bag!!!!! – destruction as design language– and what it really takes to stay independent in 2025 also available on spotify substack and wherever you consume your long-form contentlearn about ottolinger here https://ottolinger.com/FIND ME HEREhttps://www.youtube.com/@chez.ameliehttps://www.instagram.com/chez.ameliehello@ameliestanescu.comlove you and ducking subscribe!!!!!

fashion critic filmmaker and forever icon diane pernet joins us for an unfiltered conversation about what it really means to build your own path in fashion.follow and rate the fashion archives podcast on spotify the same way you'd rate a restaurant experience on google xdxdxdbefore blogs, before Instagram, before content creators were even a thing—diane was documenting fashion on her own terms. With her signature black veil and unmatched point of view, she founded A Shaded View on Fashion Film, walked for Demna’s Balenciaga couture show, and helped shape a global conversation around fashion x film way before anyone else was doing it.She shares what it’s really like to stick around in fashion for decades—and how to stay relevant without selling your soul :)))We also get into:– her uniform and favorite designers– what it was like walking for Demna (and her thoughts on him heading to Gucci)– how she made her own space without asking for permission– what it actually takes to last in fashionDiane is the kind of guest I dreamed of having on when I started this podcast: someone who built something meaningful in this chaotic, ever-changing industry—without ever diluting her voice.This is part of the new chapter I’ve been working on behind the scenes: sitting down with people I admire—people who’ve done the work, taken risks, and stayed weird :)))))))so grateful to have MOTHER on the archivesyou'll find me here:https://www.instagram.com/chez.ameliehttps://www.youtube.com/@chez.amelie

Legendary image-maker Nick Knight sits down with us to share his unfiltered insights on the future of fashion. From the revolutionary impact of AI in fashion to reflections on icons like Alexander McQueen and Martin Margiela, Nick offers a behind-the-scenes perspective you won't hear anywhere elseWe dive deep into the current state of fashion weeks — questioning their relevance, evolution, and cultural value in today's digital-first world. Nick also opens up about the real business challenges the UK fashion industry faces in the post-Brexit landscape, giving you a full 360° view of the creative and commercial forces reshaping the fashion world right now.Plus, we explore his groundbreaking work with SHOWstudio, live-streaming fashion shows before anyone else dared, and the importance of collaborative work between creatives.If you're passionate about the future of fashion, the intersection of art and technology, and the business realities of creative industries, this interview is essential viewing.Nick is the first guest part of these new special eps I am introducing on The Archives: I’ve been wanting to take podcast to the next level for a while now. not just where i talk but a real space where we can listen, learn, and grow together.behind the scenes, i’ve been working on bringing guests on.people I meet along the way that i think we can actually learn from — not just about the art and craft of fashion, but about building careers, making mistakes, navigating the chaos of this industry.this new chapter is for us.for the ones who are curious, hungry, restless.I’ve selected different guests with different journeys — journalists, vintage curators, entrepreneurs, photographers — so that wherever you are on your path, you’ll find something that clicks. something that sticks with you. something you can use.this is a MEGA dream for me — not just to talk about fashion, but to create a space where we question it, learn from it, and build our own version of it.honored and humbled to have Nick as my first guest!!!!🖤im hungry for your feedback!!!!! you'll find me here: https://www.instagram.com/chez.amelieyou'll find the pod on YouTube too:https://www.youtube.com/@chez.amelieyou'll find my newsletter here:https://substack.com/@ameliestanescu

If the Margiela boy = Isabel Marant girl then… is the Hedi Slimane boy = Ann Demeulemeester girl?Nostalgia is a cycle we can’t seem to exit—and deep down, I find comfort in that. After all, I’m a Cancer.In this episode of The Fashion Archives podcast I trace the return of two iconic fashion archetypes: the Hedi Slimane boy and the Ann Demeulemeester girl. From Dior Homme to Antwerp minimalism, blurry gig photos to Tumblr dashboards, we explore how the aesthetics of the 2000s and 2010s are being reimagined in 2025 through indie sleaze, post-punk, and quiet rebellion.We talk Stefano Gallici’s vision for Ann Demeulemeester, the rise of 2hollis and Snow Strippers, the electro-emo music comeback, and the enduring appeal of skinny jeans, leather jackets, poet blouses, and lace-up boots.It’s about fashion formulas that never leave. Subcultures that keep haunting us. And how fashion, once again, is a tool for emotional expression in a world that’s oversaturated with trends. If you’re into archive fashion, Hedi Slimane's Celine era, early YSL Homme, the Libertines, Crystal Castles, or even just vibing with the whole “hot people looking bad on purpose” aesthetic—this one’s for you. And if you feel like fashion has nothing new to say… you might be right. hold that thought for the next episodeinsta https://www.instagram.com/chez.amelieyoutube https://www.youtube.com/@chez.amelienewsletter https://thefashionarchives.substack.com/

salone isn’t about furniture trades only. it’s becoming more and more about culture - fashion - networking my new-newsletter https://thefashionarchives.substack.com/what started in 1961 as a trade fair for italian furniture is now the unofficial soft launch of the global creative calendar. it’s milan’s design olympics, its most stylish week (more than mfw - it's like MORE REAL), and one of the best-kept secrets for fashion insiders who are actually doing things behind the scenes.we're talking about an annual design takeover where fashion people finally relax. no step-and-repeats, no chaos PR pitstops, no seat assignments — just editors, stylists, buyers, and directors walking slowly through installations, touching fabrics, asking questions, and talking like actual humans.this is where storytelling meets design. where prada hosts symposiums on moving trains. where loewe turns teapots into art. where jil sander reinterprets the s64 chair. where gucci reimagines bamboo as concept.salone is where the fashion industry’s deeper thinking happens — off-runway, off-season, off-brand (in the best way). it's strategy disguised as furniture. it’s presence without performance. and it’s where you’ll find the archive-makers, not just the content creators.fuorisalone — the city-wide offsite satellite shows — is where the real stuff goes down. brutalist parking garage exhibitions. rooftop lamp launches. conversations over espresso in courtyard cafés.salone isn’t loud. it’s smart.and if you're sleeping on it, you won’t after reading this newsletter.save the cheat sheets about where to eat, where to shop, which fashion brands are showcasing where that you'll find in my newsletter :)))also: walk without purpose.YOU'LL FIND ME HERE:insta ‪ https://www.instagram.com/chez.amelieyoutube https://www.youtube.com/@chez.amelie

let’s start with what i hate, because that’s always more fun.suede leather? too delicate, hates water, fades in the sun. high-maintenance and never worth it. kitten heels? pain in disguise. the worst of both worlds—no height, no comfort, just suffering. scarves? idk something about them feels very i collect antique teacups and trauma. polka dots? lovely in an editorial. horizontal stripes? be serious.now, the good stuff.fringe on bags and jackets = yes. movement. drama. black knee-high boots? they fix everything. truly. ugly outfit? fixed. existential crisis? still cute. asymmetrical zippers, jackets, anything—yes. a little off-balance never hurt anyone. t-shirts with stupid quotes? love. the dumber the better. bonus points if it makes people do a double take. and my 501s? they’re basically my emotional support pants at this point.the fashion archives pod is where we rant, reflect, and reference.part therapy, part cultural commentary. i really hope you'll love this space as much as I do xdxdxdyou'll find me hereinsta https://www.instagram.com/chez.amelieyoutube https://www.youtube.com/@chez.amelienewsletter https://thefashionarchives.substack.com/

IS THIS CAKE OR IS THIS FOOD MARKETING FOR FASHION AND BEAUTYaka how fashion started selling you vibes using foodfashion’s been obsessed with food for a while now—but not the nourishing kind, the fantasy kind. in this episode, we break down how brands use food as a marketing tool to sell clothes, beauty, and identity.It starts with schiaparelli (duh)—she literally put a lobster on a gown in the ’30s and called it couture. Fast forward to karl lagerfeld turning chanel runways into supermarkets and parisian brasseries. he wasn’t just showing tweed, he was selling you the entire lifestyle: champagne for breakfast energy.then there’s moschino going full camp with cereal box dresses and Happy Meal heels. not subtle. but still smart.beauty followed fast—glosses that look like melted popsicles, lip oils packaged like candy, products you want to lick more than apply. rhode made skincare look like a snack. margiela gave us gloss that looks like jelly. loewe gave us tomato perfume. YES. tomato. and we ate it up.this episode unpacks why food works so well in fashion marketing: it’s emotional, nostalgic, and super easy to aestheticize. It’s not about hunger—it’s about craving. and fashion knows exactly how to trigger it.so yeah welcome to the era of edible aesthetics. and don’t be surprised if your next lipstick launch looks more like something you'd rather eat.you'll find me hereinsta https://www.instagram.com/chez.amelieyoutube https://www.youtube.com/@chez.amelienewsletter https://thefashionarchives.substack.com/

hello to the archivists XDXD in ep. 50 we’re talking about the creative director—how the role was born, how it got messy, and what’s next.Let’s start with karl. Lagerfeld was the OG. In 1974, he was the sole designer at chloé—before the title "creative director" even existed. But with him, something shifted. Designers stopped being just garment-makers and started building worlds. He worked on the brand’s visual identity, storytelling, image—everything.Then came Bernard Arnault. He basically Voldemorted his way into fashion—strategic, relentless, quietly building an empire. His hostile takeover of Boussac and Dior was the beginning. And then he went full power mode: Galliano. McQueen. Marc Jacobs. That era? Pure auteur energy. These designers were setting culture.Fast forward to now and it's a chess game. Creative directors barely last a full year. The pressure’s more insane than ever even if you thought it was not possible, the timelines are brutal, and everyone’s trying to stay relevant and sell bags.But maybe the future isn’t about the lone genius anymore. Maybe it’s collaborative—like Raf and Miuccia. Less ego, more ecosystem.Let’s talk about it.insta https://www.instagram.com/chez.amelieyoutube https://www.youtube.com/@chez.amelienewsletter https://thefashionarchives.substack.com/

Ten years ago, Demna went to Balenciaga and completely flipped the house. Let’s be honest — Balenciaga was sliding into irrelevance after the Alexander Wang era, which had zero relevance. Demna didn’t just revive it — he turned it into the brand that defined a decade of fashion. Irony, normcore, trauma-core, the end of good taste — all of it.Meanwhile, behind the scenes, Demna and Alessandro Michele were building something. A friendship, a mutual respect, and in 2021, The Hacker Project — a rare moment of intra-Kering crossover. Two major houses under the same roof remixing each other’s codes like a fashion inside joke. It wasn’t just clever — it signaled trust.So when the announcement dropped that Demna is the new creative director of Gucci? Shocking, yes. But also: not really. Gucci needed a name. Demna needed a reset. Kering looked at the board, saw their strongest player, and made the move. Big name, big house. Simple.Now what? Personally, if I were Demna, I’d dive deep into the one thing no one’s really touched: the family drama. Gucci’s entire legacy is built on it — scandals, betrayals, financial chaos, murder. It’s the highest level of fashion drama, and weirdly, no one has turned it into a proper aesthetic direction. If anyone can do it, it’s Demna. I want to see something dark, twisted, bloody — but still romantic. Italian noir. Big coats, big glasses, drama in tailoring.This episode is about what this move really means — for Demna, for Gucci, and for the entire industry. Because whether you love him or hate him, he’s about to make fashion interesting again and make this 100 yo house live again.don't listen to anything im saying don't buy anything im wearing im lost too. But if you reaaaaally want to, YOU'LL FIND ME HERE:⁠⁠https://www.instagram.com/chez.amelie/⁠⁠⁠⁠https://www.youtube.com/@chez.amelie

here's a breakdown of everything you need to know in regards of the bianchetto tabi boots - the most desired tabi boots, the hardest to style. I broke the only shopping rule i have for them: never get anything if you don't see yourself wearing it in multiple ways in multiple occasions. some pieces are like a piece of art and they're gonna make the whole fit so in the end wearing something this special will make everything else quite easy.don't listen to anything im saying don't buy anything im wearing im lost too ⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠INSTAGRAM ⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠       ⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠TIKTOK⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠        ⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠DISCORD⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠YOUTUBE

guys we're too nostalgic we're not moving forward help don't listen to anything im saying don't buy anything im wearing im lost too  ⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠INSTAGRAM ⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠       ⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠TIKTOK⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠        ⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠DISCORD⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠ ⁠⁠YOUTUBE

a little here and there about margiela and mm6 - a great case study for a successful diffusion line don't listen to anything im saying don't buy anything im wearing im lost too  ⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠INSTAGRAM ⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠       ⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠TIKTOK⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠        ⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠DISCORD⁠⁠⁠

here we are!!!!! 2025 WE CAME TO SHINE don't listen to anything im saying don't buy anything im wearing im lost too  ⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠INSTAGRAM ⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠       ⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠TIKTOK⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠        ⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠DISCORD⁠⁠

from artisanal spring 2015 to artisanal spring 2024: ten years of Galliano at Margiela where innovation theatricality and craftsmanship became one. epic years but what is going to happen now? who's gonna take over if someone will take over? don't listen to anything im saying don't buy anything im wearing im lost too  ⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠INSTAGRAM ⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠       ⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠TIKTOK⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠        ⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠DISCORD⁠

having a secondhand business. is it still remunerative in 2024? in such a competitive market with a target audience that has such a high knowledge on how to source what to source and how much to pay for it, how can vintage stores survive with business models formulated in a pre tiktok era? let's talk. don't listen to anything im saying don't buy anything im wearing im lost too  ⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠INSTAGRAM ⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠       ⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠TIKTOK⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠        ⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠DISCORD⁠

pov: you're invited to a fashion show but where are you seating and what does that say about you? front row politics are always involved when prs are planning the seating but they keep channging and it's hard to keep up. here's my experience (:::: don't listen to anything im saying don't buy anything im wearing im lost too  ⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠INSTAGRAM ⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠       ⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠TIKTOK⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠        ⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠DISCORD⁠