The Materialist : A Podcast from At Present

In this episode of The Materialist, Marc Bridge sits down with celebrity colorist Jenna Perry, the artist behind the signature looks of Kendall Jenner, Bella Hadid, and a generation of “It Girls.” Known for transforming hair into a medium of emotion, identity, and self-expression, Jenna shares how a childhood fascination with her grandmother’s salon visits evolved into one of New York’s most coveted creative businesses.She opens up about the emotional connection between women and their hair, why a haircut after a breakup can feel like therapy, and what it takes to turn artistry into enterprise. From a 600-square-foot East Village studio to a 40-person salon empire, Jenna recounts the leap from stylist to founder—and how she learned to balance artistry, leadership, and brand-building without losing her creative soul.The conversation ranges from the personal to the philosophical: what makes a good collaborator, how celebrity and social media shape trends, and why entrepreneurship is as much an art form as coloring hair. Along the way, Jenna reflects on her love of vintage jewelry, creative friendships, and the quiet satisfaction of building something lasting—piece by piece, client by client, strand by strand.It’s an intimate, high-gloss conversation about creativity, control, and the material culture of beauty. This is a public episode. If you would like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit atpresent.substack.com

If you’ve peeked at modern watch culture in the last few years, chances are you’ve felt Brynn Wallner’s impact—whether you realized it or not. She’s the founder of Dimepiece, the platform that reframed watches through a lens that’s stylish, pop-cultural, and—crucially—women-forward. In our conversation for The Materialist, Brynn unspooled the origin story of Dimepiece, the pandemic moment that sparked it, and why a Cartier on a wrist can carry just as much meaning as a family heirloom or a diploma on the wall.Who Brynn Is—and Why She’s InterestingBrynn came to watches through words. While working on editorial projects at Sotheby’s, she found herself immersed in the mythology of the “greats”—Patek, Audemars Piguet, Rolex—and the pop-cultural stories that made models like the Paul Newman Daytona household names. One problem: in all that coverage, women barely appeared.When the pandemic cost her job, it gave her time. She went to Florida with family, turned 30, and realized she had never once aspired to own a watch. That realization became Dimepiece: first an Instagram moodboard of women (past and present) wearing watches; quickly, a movement. From Princess Diana in a Tank to Rihanna in a Nautilus, Brynn used recognizability to create an accessible on-ramp for new collectors who didn’t speak reference numbers.She blends pop culture fluency with archival curiosity—and she isn’t precious about it. Brynn is the rare voice who can decode a movement, then ask how it looks with your bracelets. She writes for mainstream fashion titles, sits with Swiss brand heads in Geneva, helps private clients source vintage, and now designs: her recent Timex Intrepid “baby diver” collaboration (co-created with dealer Alan Bedwell/Foundwell) scaled a ’95 design down to 36mm with crisp, wearable styling—and promptly sold out.What Dimepiece Changed1) It widened the picture.Dimepiece popularized a simple idea: if you can see women wearing watches—stylishly, contextually—you can picture yourself wearing one too. Instead of “for her” remixes in pink or diamond-festooned minis, Brynn advocated for intention in design: what would a modern woman actually want to wear every day?2) It normalized self-purchasing.In her DMs and interviews, Brynn saw a structural shift: women buying watches to mark promotions, launches, moves, and milestones. The watch as self-made heirloom—not just a gift received—has real cultural weight.3) It reframed how watches are worn.Bracelet stacks next to cases. A Tank with denim. A small diver to the beach. Dimepiece treated watches as part of an outfit, not museum pieces under glass. That styling voice mattered—and brands noticed.4) It nudged brands toward better product.Cartier’s reemergence of the Baignoire on a bangle—explicitly “meant to be stacked”—was designed with women in mind from the start. The secondary-market frenzy that followed proved the point, and other houses (Omega, Hermès) have put real R&D behind smaller mechanical movements rather than reflexive “shrink it and sparkle it.”The Topics We Covered (and Why They Matter)Pandemic acceleration & the waitlist era.From 2020 onward, watches surged alongside art and other “passion investments.” Supply couldn’t (or wouldn’t) match demand; waitlists ballooned; secondary prices spiked. More people paid attention—some for love, many for speculation—and the culture broadened beyond the old forums and trade catalogs.Quartz vs. mechanical, minus the snobbery.Brynn can break down the quartz revolution without turning it into a purity test. The point isn’t to dismiss quartz (or Swatch or Timex); it’s to understand why a movement matters to you—accuracy, romance, serviceability, sustainability, story—and buy accordingly.Styling and agency.Stigma around scratching cases or mixing bracelets is giving way to a wear-your-watch life. That’s not carelessness; it’s use. Patina, in this view, is biography.Heirlooms and meaning.Brynn’s father passed her his 1980s Datejust—an act that subtly rewrote a familiar script (father-to-son). We talked about the way objects carry memory across decades: the watch you buy now can be the most durable thing your family keeps.Buying smarter (and calmer).We got into the collector jargon that can intimidate newcomers—“birth-year watch,” “box and papers”—and landed here: work with trusted sources, focus on quality and condition, and don’t let cardboard + ephemera overshadow the watch itself.From spotting to making.Brynn’s Timex project is meaningful not just because it sold out, but because it models a path: research the archives, find an idea with cultural resonance (JFK Jr.’s 1990s Intrepid), scale and style it for today, price it accessibly, and bring new collectors into the fold.Why Brynn’s Cultural Impact Endures* She made the watch world bigger without dumbing it down. The scholarship is there, but so are Bella Hadid, Spice Girls, and Getty rabbit holes. That blend is the future.* She centered women as protagonists, not props. Not just as recipients of gifts—but as researchers, writers, buyers, curators, and designers.* She bridged media, retail, and product. The same instincts that power a clever Instagram caption can guide a collaboration that sells out and lives on wrists.* She changed how “serious” looks. You can be meticulous about a caliber and still care how it sits with your Carolina Bucci.Where to Start (If You’re Watch-Curious)* Try on everything—from a small steel Cartier Tank Française to a 36mm diver—and notice what you reach for a week later.* Wear it with your life: stack your bracelets, take the beach walk, accept the scratches.* If you’re hunting vintage, prioritize condition and trust over buzzwords.* Mark a milestone for yourself; that’s how heirlooms begin.Explore Brynn’s Universe* Instagram: @dimepiece.co* Features & Interviews: Dimepiece.co* Timex Collaboration: The Intrepid “baby diver” reissue (now sold out—watch the secondary market)If you want to go way down the rabbit hole…* Read Marc’s dissertation on the The Renaissance of the Swiss Watch Industry. This is a public episode. If you would like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit atpresent.substack.com

From a small town in Denmark to a sun-splashed bench in New York’s Diamond District, sisters Joy and Sarah Haugaard (the minds behind Lionheart) have built a jewelry universe where heritage, handwork, and human connection matter as much as gold and gemstones. In this conversation, we cover the origins of their partnership, Joy’s second-chance spark in 2020, the storybook that gave Lionheart its name, the community that sustains them, and why their clients don’t want what everyone else has—they want what feels like theirs.The origin story (and why it had to be the two of them)Raised “like twins,” the Haugaard sisters grew up inseparable—then bi-coastal—until the phone call that snapped them back together. In 2020, after a terrifying health crisis, Joy decided there was no more deferring the dream: she had to create Lionheart, not as a mood board but as a life. Sarah dropped everything in LA, flew to New York, and they got to work—7:00 a.m. to past-midnight, fueled by neighbors’ casseroles and customers’ letters.Why Lionheart—and what it really meansThe name is a promise. As kids, they worshiped Astrid Lindgren’s The Brothers Lionheart—a tale about two siblings who always find each other and face down every challenge, together. That devotion now shapes the brand’s ethos: courage, loyalty, and pieces that are made to live multiple lives.Making the personal, universalJoy learned the craft the old-school way—sales floor to polishing wheel to stone-sorting bench—so Lionheart’s pieces feel deeply lived. Motifs recur: birds (for freedom and their grandmother’s spirit), equestrian emblems (from their childhood around horses), and hefty, sculptural chains and charms meant to stack among the “greats” and still speak in their own voice.The Legacy collection & giving backHorses aren’t just a motif—they’re a mission. The Legacy collection supports 13 Hands, an upstate rescue that rehabilitates abused horses (and hosts veterans with PTSD). One signature pendant (their only regular sterling-silver design, also available in gold) sends 100% of proceeds to the nonprofit. It started as a capsule; it’s now permanent.Who buys Lionheart (and why)Lionheart clients are confident individualists: they might stack Van Cleef and Cartier, but they want one piece that feels like theirs. The Haugaard sisters don’t chase sameness or easy identifiability; they prefer conversation-starting forms, personal stories, and made-for-you tweaks. Social media helps, but what sustains the brand is the human exchange—DMs that turn into appointments, heirloom ideas that become rituals, and the occasional Sephora line-check where a stranger whispers, “Are those Lionheart?”Process, practice, and the editJoy sketches 40–50 pieces; Sarah insists on the story and the edit—eight or so designs to start—then opens the door to bespoke variations. That tension (vision vs. viability) keeps the work bold and wearable. Their grandmother’s lessons guide the ritual: wear your jewelry, love it, respect it—then take it off at night so you can wear it again, for decades.Where this is goingGrowth, yes—but with meaning. The Haugaards want Lionheart remembered not just for weighty gold and luminous stones, but for how the work made people feel: stronger, freer, seen. This is a public episode. If you would like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit atpresent.substack.com

Marc Bridge and Charlotte Groeneveld at the launch dinner for The World of Charlotte Groeneveld, presented by At Present. Raf’s New York, September 9, 2025. Charlotte’s dress is by ALMADA Label, Necklace from At Present.Charlotte Groeneveld—aka The Fashion Guitar—joins me during New York Fashion Week to talk about how blogging became the creator economy, why authenticity (not algorithms) is her north star, and the thrill/terror of debuting our new jewelry capsule together. From front-row politics to fabric snobbery and the “feel” test, Charlotte traces her path from WordPress fits to building a modern luxury business that’s personal, precise, and proudly independent.We get into: how NYFW is regaining its spark, the job-to-be-done for creators and brands, and Charlotte’s rubric for partnerships (“know your audience; be consistent; work hard”). She opens up about the mental gymnastics of invitations, the power of a tight network, and why her style starts with quality—then proportion.Then we unveil highlights from the At Present × The World of Charlotte Groeneveld capsule: an open-front diamond choker that “feels rich” without feeling heavy, its sister version tipped with organic pearls, a rose-quartz-kissed pearl choker, a saturated green fluorite strand with adjustable length, and a (soon!) ear climber. The brief we set for ourselves: make pieces that feel unique yet instantly wearable—day to night, knitwear to gala.Charlotte also shares what’s exciting her now—from TWP’s fabric-and-fit mastery to the return of the Chloé Paddington—plus why emerging designers face a brutal money/creativity tradeoff while mega-houses wrestle with the inverse. We close with where to follow her long-form writing (yes, Substack) and why community—DM by DM—still matters.Callouts & linksHouses & heritage* Chanel – the Karl Lagerfeld photo that inspired her blog’s name and the dream of sitting their shows. * Ralph Lauren – anchoring NYFW’s renewed excitement. * Chloé – current collection inspiration + the return of the Paddington bag. * Valentino – early adopter of working with bloggers. * Burberry – among Charlotte’s first European brand collabs. Contemporary & indie she’s watching* TWP – fabric, fit, and a “keeper” brand; new store out east. * Nordic Knots – rugs; a home brand she admires. * Interior NYC – beloved, now-closed indie; she still wears and tags their pieces* Ellison Studios – Australian home brand; small-batch furniture.People & media* The Fashion Guitar – Charlotte’s platform (site & Substack). * Vogue Runway – street-style time capsule. * Leandra Medine (Man Repeller), Susie Bubble, Bryanboy, Aimee Song – early era peers Charlotte cites.* The Frick Collection – where she plans to wear the diamond choker. Our capsule (At Present × The World of Charlotte Groeneveld)* Open diamond choker – front-closing, twin diamond tips (elegant, breathable “feel”).* Open pearl choker – same silhouette with organic pearl tips.* Pearl + rose-quartz choker – short, sits high; daytime-to-evening.* Green fluorite strand – lush color; subtly adjustable length. This is a public episode. If you would like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit atpresent.substack.com

Sommyyah Awan and Marc Bridge, Hotel Chelsea, New York City, September 13, 2025For this episode of The Materialist, recorded during New York Fashion Week, I sat down with Toronto-based content creator, communications strategist, and fashion multihyphenate Sommyyah Awan. Known for her irreverent and stylish “dual life” — corporate strategist by day, luxury fashion influencer by night — Sommyyah brings sharp insights on style, material culture, and what it means to live intentionally with objects.We traced her journey from Houston to Toronto, from Tumblr blogs to TikTok virality, and from sewing her own clothes as a teenager to walking red carpets in Sergio Hudson and Hermès. Sommyyah explained how her training in communications shapes her content, why she thinks of herself as “Hannah Montana,” and how her five beloved F’s — fashion, film, fast cars, flying planes, and foreign policy — drive her creativity.The conversation moves from her playful irreverence (skateboarding with a Birkin, wearing a necklace backwards) to serious reflections on taste, storytelling, and the enduring power of artisanship. We discuss her philosophy of high-low styling, her perspective on Hermès versus hype-driven brands, and her ambitions for the future — including Substack writing, styling services, and the perfect timepiece.Sommyyah reminds us that intentional materialism isn’t about being owned by objects, but about choosing what amplifies who you already are. She brings wit, candor, and joy to a conversation that ranges from handbags to geopolitics, lipstick to algorithms, and the meaning of living life at full tilt. And if you want the full DL on what she chose to wear for our conversation, conveniently she made a video about it here!Find Sommyyah on Instagram, TikTok, and Substack. This is a public episode. If you would like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit atpresent.substack.com

What does it take to translate timeless brands into the digital age—and what happens when you refuse to play by algorithmic rules? This week on The Materialist, I sit down with Ruthie Friedlander, a digital pioneer who has shaped how we see luxury fashion and jewelry online.Ruthie’s story defies linear career paths. She started as Dan Abrams’ assistant in the early days of Mediaite, carved out one of Chanel’s first digital roles, joined the Olsen twins at The Row when the company was barely 25 people, and later helped lead digital strategy at ELLE and InStyle. Today she runs At Large, the creative agency she “accidentally” founded after burning out on editorial quotas that demanded 80 stories a day. Along the way, she has become a leading voice on what it means to build brands that endure.Highlights from our conversation:* On brand integrity: “It’s either right or it’s wrong.” Ruthie draws a through-line from Chanel to The Row to At Large: the best brands refuse compromise.* On digital shortcuts: chasing algorithms creates short-term growth but erodes identity. She explains why so many millennial “playbook brands” fizzled out.* On jewelry’s unique challenge: unlike sweaters, fine jewelry brands must finance inventory, consign pieces, and absorb the risk—making scale almost impossible without deep pockets.* On lab vs. natural diamonds: chemically identical, yes—but “I will always look at natural diamonds and lab diamonds differently from a spiritual perspective.”* On building healthier workplaces: having recovered from an eating disorder exacerbated by fashion’s culture and starting The Chain, a nonprofit dedicated to eating disorder advocacy in fashion and entertainment, Ruthie is committed to running a company where therapy, boundaries, and health are non-negotiable.Why it matters for The Materialist communityJewelry and design aren’t just about objects; they’re about the stories and structures behind them. Ruthie helps us see how storytelling sells, why clarity outlasts trends, and how the jewelry industry mirrors broader questions of value, scarcity, and meaning. This is a public episode. If you would like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit atpresent.substack.com

On Instagram, it looks effortless: the infinity pools in the Maldives, the safari sunsets in South Africa, the couture fit checks against a perfect backdrop. Laura and Nicolas Herbert — known to their hundreds of thousands of followers as @laurandnicolas — seem to embody the ultimate lifestyle: global travel, editorial style, and a business powered by beauty.But as Laura reveals in this week’s episode of The Materialist, the dream is much more complicated.From Antwerp to EverywhereLaura began her career in Antwerp’s fashion world. But a six-month trip with Nicolas — meant as a sabbatical — changed everything. They started an Instagram account to document their travels, posted every single day (sometimes setting alarms for 2 a.m. to catch the right window), and slowly transformed a personal experiment into a professional platform. Hotels began reaching out. Fashion brands followed. And eventually, the couple built a dual business: influencer distribution and commercial photography for luxury clients.The Cost of BeautyWhat looks like vacation is actually work. For every perfect sunrise photo, there’s a wake-up call at dawn. For every dreamy campaign, there are countless emails, logistics puzzles, and the stress of feeding an algorithm that rewards relentless output. Laura admits to burnout, to losing the ability to see some destinations as “vacations,” and to the ongoing negotiation of how much intimacy to share with an audience that feels they know you.“It’s our job to make it look like a vacation — but it rarely is.”Style, Mystery, and the Magazine MagicLaura also reflects on how Instagram has changed. Once it was about editorial photography, thoughtful composition, and images that felt like magazine spreads. Now, the push is toward photo dumps, immediacy, and intimacy. Laura misses the mystery and magic of the editorial era — and wonders if there’s a way back. Her own style, she says, is classic but playful: she dresses to the destination, and she believes accessories and jewelry turn an outfit into a statement.The Places That Still Take Her Breath AwayDespite the grind, there is still wonder. For Laura and Nicolas, South Africa remains the most magical place they’ve ever been — from the conservation-driven safaris at Royal Malewane and Tswalu to the light and food of Cape Town. Namibia, just an hour away, is another favorite, with landscapes that feel cinematic. These are the places where the dream and the reality align.Listen NowThis conversation is about more than travel and style — it’s about the costs and rewards of turning passion into profession. Laura Herbert shares what it really takes to live the life that looks like a dream.Laura Herbert and Marc Bridge, The Hotel Chelsea, August 26, 2025 This is a public episode. If you would like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit atpresent.substack.com

This week on The Materialist, I’m joined by Tiffany Lopinsky — co-founder and president of ShopMy, the platform quietly powering your favorite creators.We cover a lot of ground: the evolution of influencer marketing, why affiliate and subscription revenue might just save the creator economy, and what it takes to build something useful, without a playbook.Tiffany speaks with the clarity of someone who’s seen behind the curtain — first as a content creator herself (shout out to Boston Foodies), and now as the operator behind a platform with 175,000 creators and 30,000 brands.“There’s no playbook for something that hasn’t been done before. Otherwise, you’d have to write the playbook once you do it.”That could be the ShopMy manifesto — and it wouldn’t be a bad one for the rest of us, either.📌 Highlights from Our Conversation• The 3 ways creators make money todayFlat-fee partnerships, affiliate revenue, and subscriptions. (Spoiler: Tiffany thinks the second and third are where freedom — and taste — live.)• Why micro-influence isn’t just a buzzwordThe power isn’t always in scale — it's in specificity. Smart brands know that the right creator with 10k followers can outperform a scripted macro-influencer with a million.• The changing role of press & retailLegacy media and department stores are losing ground. Creators now function like boutique editors and independent shopkeepers — and they’re often better at it.• The invisible architecture of tasteShopMy isn’t just helping brands find creators — it’s helping good taste scale.🛍 Brands Tiffany Loves (and Why)Here are a few brands Tiffany mentions in the episode — all discoverable (and shoppable) through ShopMy:* Le Monde Beryl — Elegant flats rooted in timeless design.* Emme Parsons — Sandals and refined footwear with a minimalist soul.* Porta NYC — Brooklyn-based earthenware shop she can’t stop talking about. This is a public episode. If you would like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit atpresent.substack.com

Victoria Gomelsky and Marc Bridge Live from the Fabulous Venetian Hotel and Casino, Las Vegas.Welcome back to The Materialist. I recorded this special episode live from the jewelry shows in Las Vegas—the annual gathering point for the industry’s global village. Fittingly, I sat down with Victoria Gomelsky, Editor-in-Chief of JCK Magazine, contributor to The New York Times, and one of the most thoughtful chroniclers of the jewelry world for over two decades.Victoria and I talked about what keeps her coming back to JCK after 23 years, why jewelry is still a face-to-face business in a screen-filled world, and how she ended up with a watch named after her—literally, The Gomelsky.Some highlights:"This business runs on trust—millennia ago, you only traded gems with people you knew. That legacy still shapes the industry today.""Of all industries, jewelry is the most intimate—and the most global. You walk one aisle and you’ve met people from China, India, Botswana, Sri Lanka… it’s like the U.N. in diamonds.""Shinola’s CEO said, ‘We can’t come up with a name for this watch—what’s your name?’ I said Gomelsky. And that’s how I got a watch line named after me.""Trade press may not be glamorous, but it's where you learn the real business—the players, the politics, the paradoxes."We also get into:* The evolution of women buying jewelry for themselves* Why trade shows still matter in the age of Instagram* How the jewelry press balances journalism with brand hospitality* Her accidental path from Soviet émigré to New York Times travel writer to gemstone editorVictoria’s storytelling reminds to stay open to serendipity as the best experiences—and the best careers—are rarely planned. You can read her latest New York Times stories here and find her on Instagram at @vikavickyvictoria. This is a public episode. If you would like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit atpresent.substack.com

What do you get when a journalism grad, Dallas native, and self-described jewelry “nepo baby” builds a piercing empire in the middle of a pandemic? You get Wildlike—a brand that’s as much about identity, memory, and reinvention as it is about sparkle.This week on The Materialist, I sit down with my friend Alysa Teichman—co-owner of Ylang 23 and founder of Wildlike—to talk about the deeply personal reasons people get pierced (divorce, fertility, “hot girl summer”), the role jewelry plays in our emotional lives, and what it means to grow up inside a family business and then start your own. Alysa is witty, warm, candid, and sharp.We talk:* 🧠 Why piercings are more than aesthetic—they're ritual, rebellion, release* ✨ What it means to treat retail as a form of public service* 🛠️ The real work of “making it happen” when you're spinning 18 plates (and wearing 18 earrings)* 💎 Natural vs lab diamonds: is a lab diamond like a fake Birkin?* 📈 Rising gold prices, TikTok brains, and why “perfection is the enemy of good”* 💬 Scott Galloway quotes, “hey guys” videos, and the elusive balance between authenticity and content fatigueAnd yes, we also talk about her dog. And her favorite piercing (hint: SEO gold).📍Find Alysa at alysa teichman or IRL at her Wildlike stores in NYC and Dallas, and her family’s store, Ylang 23. This is a public episode. If you would like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit atpresent.substack.com

This week on The Materialist, I sit down with milliner and creative force Gigi Burris, founder of Gigi Burris Millinery and the nonprofit Closely Crafted, which champions artisanal production in the U.S.We talk about how Gigi went from sewing hats as a Parsons student to dressing Rihanna and being a CFDA Vogue Fashion Fund finalist—while keeping her studio (and her soft-coated Wheaten Terrier shipping manager, Brooklyn Bow) right in the heart of Chinatown. She shares what it means to build a niche brand in an age of sameness, the surprisingly diverse world of hat-wearers, and why confidence is the accessory that really matters.Highlights from our conversation:* ✂️ The difference between a milliner and a millionaire (and why she hopes to be both one day)* 👒 How Rihanna ended up in a senior thesis hat from Parsons* 🧵 The Vogue Fashion Fund bootcamp that shaped her business* 🇯🇵 Why Japanese department stores get everything first* 🎯 Closely Crafted’s mission to revive U.S.-based artisan production* 💡 “If you're going to be intentional about the way you dress, why would you not do so from head to toe?”* 👛 Shout-outs to fellow makers: Eve Fehren, Lizzie Fortunato, Don’t Let Disco, and Underwater Weaving Studio.Gigi Burris O’Hara at her studio and store in Chinatown, NYCMarc Bridge wearing a Gigi Burris Hat Pin as a Lapel Pin, NYC This is a public episode. If you would like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit atpresent.substack.com

Marc Bridge and Sophie Cohen (@stylewithsoco), The Hotel Chelsea, May 21, 2025In today’s episode of The Materialist, I had the pleasure of speaking with Sophie Cohen, a fashion influencer whose authenticity and vibrant style have garnered a dedicated following across social media. Sophie’s journey from high school style page to full-time influencer is both inspiring and eye-opening, offering a unique behind-the-scenes look into the evolving business of influencer marketing. Here's a recap of some of the best parts of our conversation.The Power of Authenticity in FashionSophie has always believed that fashion is more than just clothes—it’s a powerful way to express who we are. “Fashion was really the thing that was like, this is how I express myself with the world and this is like my thing.” For Sophie, style isn’t just about keeping up with trends; it’s about wearing what feels authentic and reflects her personality.Her bold, maximalist approach—featuring vibrant colors, patterns, and a love for statement pieces—has set her apart in a crowded influencer space. “I love that with jewelry, even when I'm wearing a simpler outfit, or even if I'm just not feeling like getting dressed, I have all of these little things on me. I love having my name on things, I love that it sparks conversation.”The Business of Being an InfluencerBeyond personal style, Sophie shared her journey of building a career as an influencer. “The biggest channel of income for me is brand partnership. So that is like any sort of paid content on an influencer’s page. If a brand is paying them to post a story or a TikTok or a reel, whatever.”Sophie also emphasized the importance of authenticity in these partnerships. She never promotes brands that don’t align with her values or personal aesthetic. “I couldn’t do a deal for something that felt inauthentic,” Sophie explains. This commitment to staying true to her personal brand has allowed her to build genuine relationships with both her followers and the brands she works with.Sophie’s Favorite Brands and CollaborationsSophie’s style is influenced by a mix of high-end brands, vintage finds, and unique pieces from smaller designers. Here are some of the brands and designers she loves:* Jenny Bird: Sophie raves about their timeless yet funky jewelry pieces, particularly the gold bangles she’s worn daily. “They make really classic yet funky pieces that are also timeless.”* Timeless Pearly: Sophie recently collaborated with this whimsical Parisian brand known for their colorful, fun designs. “They just have the most whimsical, joyful pieces. If you’re ever in Paris, you have to go to their showroom."* Nina Runsorf: Sophie loves this designer’s unique approach to classic jewelry, like a ring with pink tourmaline that she treasures. “I love anything that’s like classic with a twist when it comes to jewelry.”* Vintage Jewelry: Sophie also shares her love for collecting vintage jewelry during her travels. “I love getting a piece of jewelry from any city that I go to... even if it’s just like something off the street, like a $10 bracelet.”The Future of Sophie’s CareerLooking ahead, Sophie is excited about the possibilities within the influencer space and beyond. She’s already worked on some amazing collaborations, and she sees herself growing into the luxury space in the coming years. Sophie also shared her dream of owning a vintage shop, which aligns perfectly with her passion for curating unique, one-of-a-kind pieces.“I think my biggest passion is vintage designer clothing... I would love to have my own brand or shop or something of that sort,” she says. As Sophie continues to build her platform, she’s focused on creating a community where her followers can engage with her and feel inspired by her style.Where to Find SophieYou can keep up with Sophie on her various social platforms:* Instagram* TikTok* SubstackSophie also has a special Instagram show called Meet You in Five with her best friend, where they share more personal content and style advice.TakeawaysSophie Cohen’s approach to fashion and social media is refreshing, grounded in authenticity, and centered around self-expression. By staying true to her roots and embracing opportunities that align with her personal style, Sophie has built a career that continues to inspire both her followers and the brands she collaborates with. Whether she’s showcasing a vintage find or curating the perfect stack of jewelry, Sophie reminds us that style is a form of storytelling—a way to share our identity with the world. This is a public episode. If you would like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit atpresent.substack.com

What does it mean to make something lasting in a world built for speed? In this episode of The Materialist, I sit down with Sam Broekema, Editor in Chief of Only Natural Diamonds, to talk about permanence, disruption, and the enduring power of jewelry.Sam shares his journey from a small town in Wisconsin to the fashion departments of Vanity Fair, Harper’s Bazaar, and InStyle, where he honed his editorial vision. Now, at Only Natural Diamonds, he’s building a platform that champions storytelling over sales — and elevates diamonds not just as luxury goods, but as cultural artifacts rich with meaning.We talk about:* Why the best jewelry stories aren’t about price, but about people.* How legacy publications lost their footing — and what Sam is building instead.* The difference between a Chanel bag and a bracelet from your grandmother.* How Dezso by Sara Beltrán, 10,000 Things, and Nikos Koulis are redefining contemporary fine jewelry.* The joy of imperfection — from salt-and-pepper diamonds to poky stones with soul.We also discuss why print still matters, how Gen Z’s obsession with authenticity is reshaping luxury, and why responsibility and sustainability aren’t in opposition to indulgence — they’re part of it.Sam’s editorial ethos? Surprise. Delight. Tell the story no one else is telling.📸 Follow Only Natural Diamonds on Instagram🛍️ Discover emerging designers we love at atpresent.com This is a public episode. If you would like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit atpresent.substack.com

Cassie Thorpe doesn’t just talk about luxury fashion—she makes you feel why it matters. In our latest episode of The Materialist, the undisputed queen of Tiny Bag Energy joins me to unpack the emotional logic behind the circus of style. Cassie is incisive, hilarious, and uncommonly generous about the things that spark obsession: Alexander McQueen blazers, vintage Chanel rings, and bags shaped like plastic pigeons (cheers to you JW Anderson).We talk about what it means to curate a personal archive—and why her “love hand” (yes, that’s a thing) features not only her engagement ring, but also the Chanel Ultra ring her parents gave her at 18. That piece of white ceramic launched an entire aesthetic.She also highlights three standout creators and brands everyone should know:* Tolu Coker – London-based designer merging British tailoring and Nigerian heritage with vibrant storytelling. Her work, especially in light of this year’s Met Gala theme, is unmissable.* Nawbar – A Lebanese jewelry house creating bold, enamel-forward designs like their stunning Atom Collection.* Jeniece Blanchet – An ethereal designer whose sculptural beadwork looks like water droplets suspended in air. Think wearable fantasy.Cassie also shares her favorite personal pieces from designers she loves, including:* Susana Martins – for her signature white ceramic and gold pieces* Unsaid – French jewelry house working exclusively with lab-grown diamonds* Shay Jewelry – her own collab with them includes a lavender ceramic and diamond curb-link bracelet* Monica Vinader – for everyday stackable ringsAnd yes, she found the McQueen piece of her dreams—a 2009 houndstooth blazer—on eBay.Cassie’s worldview is that luxury should delight, not intimidate. Whether you’re deep in the Hermès trenches or just starting to figure out your ring stack, this is a conversation for anyone who finds joy in the details. This is a public episode. If you would like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit atpresent.substack.com

Every so often, a guest joins The Materialist who manages to collapse categories: intellect and indulgence, strategy and sparkle, Prada and Gramsci. This week, that guest is Tariro Makoni.Tariro is a strategist, writer, and the voice behind Trademarked, one of the smartest (and funniest) Substacks on the internet. She writes about fashion, politics, and consumer behavior with such clarity and candor that you’ll never look at a sweater—or a tariff—the same way again.In our conversation, we dig into:* The emotional logic of “frivolous” purchases* Why women drive 85% of consumer spending (and what that means for power)* The return of smoking as a sign of late-capitalist burnout* And why what’s happening on the Prada runway is an economic indicator—even if your professor doesn’t think so.But we also talk jewelry. Not as trend, but as text. Symbols, signals, little indulgences that reveal how we see ourselves—and what we want others to see.What’s on Tariro’s wrist (and mind):* A Carolina Bucci Lucky Bracelet — silk and gold, worn until the threads say something new* A Cartier Juste un Clou — flipped backwards to reclaim its meaning* A Charm Factory Star Bracelet — substantial, a little magical* And rings by Vanessa Hernandez — “the light of my life,” as Tariro puts itEach of these pieces comes with a story. A context. A cultural echo. And that’s what this episode is about: the meaning beneath the sparkle.🛍 Explore jewelry that tells a story📩 Subscribe to Tariro’s Substack: Trademarked This is a public episode. If you would like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit atpresent.substack.com

This week on The Materialist, I had the joy of sitting down with Colin Keane Lynch, the artist and jeweler behind Keane. His work has been part of At Present’s assortment for years, but this conversation offered the time to slow down, zoom out, and ask how meaning is made—through hands, history, and a thousand degrees of heat.Colin’s pieces are hand-formed from glass in his Brooklyn Navy Yard studio—each one made by him, start to finish. But as we talked, it became clear that the true through-line in his work isn’t just craftsmanship or aesthetics—it’s curiosity. The kind that spans childhoods spent among zookeepers and chemists, travels to glassblowing ateliers in Italy, and hours upon hours of studio time where intention meets improvisation.Three Pea Ring, Silver/RedWe talked about how value is created—economically, emotionally, and artistically. And about how hard it is to define what’s “worth it” in a world where perception can feel like quicksand.From Zoo Animals to Murano GlassColin grew up in St. Louis. His father was a zookeeper at the St. Louis Zoo, and his mother ran her family’s industrial coatings business—formulating everything from Steinway piano lacquers to experimental nail polish for dentists. (“Don’t ask,” he said, which of course only made me want to ask more.) His parents also ran an artisan import business sourcing from Central Mexico and Italy, where their connections eventually led Colin to spend a summer in Murano learning to blow glass from some of the world’s masters—at just 15.That summer was a turning point, not just creatively but conceptually. He described the experience as a kind of apprenticeship-in-motion, where the discipline of making met the thrill of learning without limits. It was like being sent to basketball camp and finding out your coach is Michael Jordan.RISD, Raves, and the Real Work of Art SchoolColin later studied in the glass program at RISD—not a technical program, but a conceptual one. Students weren’t asked to replicate historical forms; they were asked to investigate identity, systems, form, and meaning through material. The prompts were abstract (“Make something about identity”), and the materials were sometimes unconventional: crushed brick, spun sugar, yarn. He learned how to think about materials not as tools, but as collaborators.It was, he said, intimidating. And invaluable.From Menswear to MeaningAfter graduating into the 2008 financial crisis, Colin pivoted briefly into menswear—joining the team at Odin, one of the first high-concept men’s boutiques in New York. There, he helped launch their in-house apparel line and quickly became immersed in the design and production side of fashion. That experience taught him not just how to source and manufacture, but how to prototype, iterate, and communicate ideas to customers.And more importantly, it gave him a retail laboratory. He could make jewelry—small-batch, experimental pieces—and see in real time what resonated. The first piece he ever sold? A simple glass vial necklace with gold leaf suspended inside. Not precious, but poetic.On Glass, Value, and What's Really RareWe spent time in this conversation probing a recurring theme: how value gets ascribed. Colin sees parallels between precious jewelry and high-end clothing—when it’s done well and with intention, the materials and the story matter. But he’s wary of value that’s based solely on scarcity or branding. We talked about diamonds. We talked about perception. We talked about the ancient Egyptians, who once considered glass more valuable than gold because of the rarity of the knowledge it took to make it.“Most people don’t know how anything is made,” Colin told me. “But when they visit the studio and see even a glimpse of the process, it completely changes how they see the work.”It’s true. The moment you understand what goes into something—time, technique, the moment-to-moment improvisation of molten material—you stop seeing it as just a product. It becomes a story. Pea Necklace, Night ShadeCreative Influence and ProcessColin’s own process remains deeply hands-on and exploratory. He starts with a theme—Missouri cave systems, '90s rave culture, pigment and color—and lets the material guide him. Some collections come from research, others from intuition. Often, the best ideas come from scraps—pieces of failed experiments or discarded glass that yield unexpected inspiration.We also talked about the artists who influence him:* Wolfgang Laib, who collects marigold pollen by hand to form luminous floor installations—art born from patience and process.* Gordon Matta-Clark, who carved and deconstructed architecture as sculpture.* René Lalique, the French glassmaker whose fluid Art Nouveau forms continue to echo in the work of artists today.The Future of KeaneWhen I asked him what comes next, Colin’s answer wasn’t a five-year plan. It was a hope: more balance. Maybe a day off here or there. Maybe a production assistant who understands the medium enough to help. But he’s wary of compromising the intentionality that defines his work. Every piece is still made by hand. One at a time. By him.He wants to make work that’s both beautiful and accessible—something that someone like his younger self, shopping at thrift stores in St. Louis, could afford. That democratic vision sits at the heart of Keane.If you’ve ever worn one of Colin’s pieces—or admired it from across a room—you’ve already felt it. The material magic. The play between transparency and color. The sense of something made with care, meant to last.I’m honored we curate Keane on At Present. And I’m grateful to Colin—not just for this conversation, but for showing us what it means to build a life and a practice out of intention, iteration, and the willingness to start over.📷 Explore Keane on At Present This is a public episode. If you would like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit atpresent.substack.com

“You may not have heard of Ali Pew, but you are probably — indirectly — wearing something she told you to,”— Harriet Walker, the fashion editor of The Times of LondonAli Pew, stylist, creative director, and creator of the influential newsletter Uniform, joins The Materialist to unpack the power of intentionality in personal style and curating life's meaningful objects. Ali shares her career journey from Conde Nast Traveler and W Magazine to Goop, offering insightful perspectives on how editorial fashion translates into real-world dressing. Our conversation spans the California wellness scene ($18 smoothies!), the art of finding timeless wardrobe essentials, and the evolving landscape of digital media and fashion.Ali thoughtfully explores her philosophy around building a lasting wardrobe, emphasizing quality, versatility, and emotional resonance. She highlights her favorite fashion houses and designers—including Phoebe Philo, Proenza Schouler, JW Anderson, Prada, Maria McManus, High Sport, and Peter Mulier at Alaïa. Ali also discusses how jewelry uniquely captures sentimental value, noting standout brands such as Cartier, Sherman Field, Tabayer, Kloto, and the thoughtful curation at At Present.Tune in for Ali's reflections on navigating the ever-changing fashion landscape, why certain pieces feel truly indispensable, and how the objects we choose to surround ourselves with shape our personal narratives and sense of identity.Ali Pew with At Present Stylist-in-Residence Jalil Johnson and Booth MooreHotel Bel-Air, March 27, 2025 This is a public episode. If you would like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit atpresent.substack.com

In the latest episode of The Materialist, I sit down with the brilliant Sally Morrison, a leading voice in the diamond world who spent decades shaping De Beers' iconic story. Together, we unpack how natural diamonds are evolving amidst the rise of lab-grown alternatives, changing generational attitudes toward commitment, and the shifting ways we define luxury.Episode Highlights:* How the diamond dream is adapting for younger consumers who value the authenticity of their journey rather than traditional notions of “forever.”* Why “quiet luxury” is replacing flashy status symbols, and what this means for the future of natural diamonds.* The creative potential and distinct emotional appeal of lab-grown diamonds.We also spotlight emerging jewelry designers Sally admires, each bringing something uniquely powerful to the jewelry world:* Lorraine West: Bridging fine and fashion jewelry with authenticity and bold creativity.* KhirY (Jameel Mohammed): Supported by Tiffany & Co., redefining modern elegance with cultural resonance.* Castro Smith: Reviving the ancient art of engraving with intricate storytelling and craftsmanship.Why Listen:This is a conversation about why we choose the objects we love and how the meanings we assign to them are shifting faster than ever. It's essential listening for anyone interested in the nuanced future of luxury, diamonds, and personal style. This is a public episode. If you would like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit atpresent.substack.com

In the latest episode of The Materialist, I sit down with my friend Ben Gilbert, co-host of Acquired, to talk about brands, luxury, and the meaning we assign to the things we own.Ben has spent the last decade dissecting the world’s most successful companies, and in light of his recent blockbuster five-hour episode on Rolex, we sat down to explore what makes something valuable—not just in dollars and cents, but in culture, psychology, and personal connection.What We Cover:🔹 Luxury vs. Premium – Why a $20,000 handbag performs the same function as a $1,000 handbag, but people are willing to pay more. Is it just branding, or is there something deeper at play?🔹 The Rolex Effect – How a brand moves from being a product to becoming the default mental image of an entire category. Is success just about making a great product, or does it require reshaping how the world sees it?Marc’s circa 1977 Rolex Oyster Perpetual Date Reference 1503 in 14k yellow gold.🔹 The Scarcity Question – What happens when technology disrupts luxury? We get into lab-grown diamonds, high-end watch dupes, and whether the future of desirability is in real rarity or just perceived rarity.🔹 Materialism vs. Meaning – Do we define ourselves by what we own? Ben reflects on how he surrounds himself with brands that feel reliable—Trek, Starbucks, Apple—but stops short of calling himself a "materialist."🔹 The Power of Storytelling – Whether it’s a luxury house like Hermès or a company like Apple, the most enduring brands aren’t just selling products. They’re selling identity, continuity, and trust.Why This Conversation MattersWe live in a world of abundance—countless choices, endless products, and AI-generated everything. But as options multiply, trust becomes the scarce commodity. Who do we trust to curate our choices? Who do we trust to tell us what’s real?That’s as true in business as it is in style, and it’s why brands that stand for something—brands that have built reputations over time—continue to thrive. The companies that endure are the ones that make us believe in something beyond the product itself.This episode is about the difference between function and feeling, utility and symbolism, price and value. And it’s a reminder that the things we bring into our lives aren’t just about what they do—they’re about what they mean.Ben hard at work at Master Control, ACQ Global Headquarters, Seattle, WA. This is a public episode. If you would like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit atpresent.substack.com

Marc Bridge with Fern Mallis, The Hotel Chelsea, February 10, 2025In this special New York Fashion Week episode of The Materialist, Marc sits down with the legendary Fern Mallis, the architect of New York Fashion Week and a lifelong champion of independent designers. We discuss the origins of Fashion Week, the evolving landscape of American fashion, and the challenges facing young designers today. Fern also shares her passion for jewelry—how it tells a story, carries emotional weight, and serves as both personal expression and historical artifact. She highlights the work of designers past and present, from icons like Calvin Klein, Donna Karan, and Tommy Hilfiger to rising talents like Tanner Fletcher, Collina Strada, and Anna Pierce. She also praises Alexis Bittar’s bold jewelry vision and reflects on her deep connection to Solange Azagury-Partridge’s designs, as well as the breathtaking craftsmanship of Indian jeweler Sabyasachi. With her signature wit and wisdom, Fern offers a masterclass in style, business, and the art of collecting. Whether you’re a fashion devotee, a jewelry lover, or just curious about the mechanics of cultural influence, this conversation is a must-listen. This is a public episode. If you would like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit atpresent.substack.com