Tile the World

Mastering Imperfect Extruded PorcelainKeywords: Extruded Porcelain Tile, Tile Installation Finesse, Grout Joint Size, 3/16" Grout, 1-2mm Variation, Larger Trowel, Non-Rectified Edges.Episode SummaryExtruded porcelain tiles offer exceptional durability, unique textures, and are highly resistant to stains, acids, and frost. However, their wet-formed, high-pressure manufacturing process—likened to the Play-Doh Fun Factory—means that size variations are inherent and expected.Join us as we reveal the expert techniques needed to install this material successfully, covering why the tiles are often mistakenly labeled "defective" and the crucial role that a wider grout joint and a larger trowel play in achieving a flawless, professional finish. We dive into how embracing the material’s "imperfect perfection" transforms the final look.Timestamps and Discussion Points[0:00] Introduction: The Quirk of ExtrusionIntroducing extruded porcelain tiles, which are shaped by forcing wet clay through a high-pressure die.The comparison to the Play-Doh Fun Factory to explain the unique manufacturing process.Addressing the common installation issue where edges pull apart or tiles do not lie flat, leading contractors to claim the material is defective.[1:30] Section 1: Extruded Tile Basics and DurabilityProcess: Extruded tiles are wet-formed from clay mixtures, sometimes including additives like feldspar or silica. They are fired at very high temperatures (1200–1400°C).Composition: This results in an ultra-dense, non-porous product with low water absorption (<0.5%).Strength: Extruded tiles boast high mechanical resistance and offer total resistance to stains, acids, frost, and thermal shock. They are suitable for outdoor and heavy-traffic areas.Aesthetics: They provide a more textured, natural, or rustic appearance and can be produced in complex shapes and thicknesses ranging from 8–20 mm.[3:30] Section 2: Why Variation is Normal (The 1–2 mm Allowance)The Tolerance: It is expected that extruded porcelain pieces will vary. A size difference of 1–2 mm is normal and "within norm and allowance".The Inevitability of Imperfection: "Perfection in this type of product is not possible".Causes of Variation: The wet clay mixture and subsequent firing process cause less predictable shrinkage compared to dry-pressed tiles. Complex shapes (e.g., Star and Cross patterns) are inherently harder to control dimensionally.Lot Variations: Using different tile shapes (e.g., a white polished star and a white matte cross) from separate production lots (e.g., 55N and 54NA) could potentially contribute to size differences.[6:30] Section 3: Installation Secrets and Essential FinesseThe Critical Grout Joint: The only way to "remove any difference that the tiles could be" is to use a wider joint. A minimum grout joint of 3–4 mm is required. For marketing purposes, 3/16" is recommended as the standard for most users. Increasing the grout joint helps mitigate issues.The Trowel Upgrade: Use a larger than normal trowel. This allows for more mortar and the necessary "adjustment in the face" to compensate for tiles that may not lie flat or are bowed.The Expert Approach: Installing extruded tiles "definitely takes some finesse". Skilled installers often avoid spacers, as adjustments to joints are "inevitable". Experts set tiles and adjust the fit manually as they work.[10:30] Conclusion: The Final TransformationA quick recap that what looks like a problem when dry-laid is solved by proper technique.The product "after install in the correct way and grout change the look completely," delivering the desired look.Key Takeaways for Installers and DIYersAcknowledge Variation: Recognize that 1–2 mm size differences are normal for extruded porcelain.Go Wide: Always use a minimum grout joint of 3–4 mm (or 3/16") to absorb inherent variations.Adjust: Use a larger than normal trowel to provide the mortar volume needed for essential adjustments and leveling.Embrace Finesse: Skilled installation requires dynamic adjustment rather than rigid reliance on spacers.

Welcome to "Tile Talk"! In this episode, we dive deep into the world of large format tiles (LFTs), typically defined as anything over 15 inches on one side. While they create stunning spaces, LFTs present unique challenges, often requiring more work and special care than smaller tiles. Learn how to avoid common pitfalls like lippage (uneven tile edges) and ensure a flawless, long-lasting installation.Key Takeaways:Substrate Preparation is Paramount:Your floor must be incredibly flat, with no more than 1/8 inch variation within 10 feet and no more than 1/16 inch out of plane in 24 inches.Self-leveling underlayment is highly recommended to achieve this crucial flatness, saving time and preventing guesswork with mortar thickness.Mortar Matters: The Right Adhesive and Technique:Always use a medium bed mortar specifically rated for Large and Heavy Tile (LHT or LFT), as it provides the necessary thickness, full coverage, and strong bond for oversized tiles."Key in" or "burn in" the mortar to the substrate using the flat side of your trowel to ensure mechanical lock and optimal bonding.Back-buttering the tile is essential; apply a thin, even layer of mortar to the back of the tile itself. This helps account for natural tile warpage and ensures maximum coverage.Use a large-notch trowel (e.g., half-inch by half-inch) for proper adhesion and coverage. Aim for at least 80% mortar coverage (95% in wet areas).Managing Imperfections and Ensuring a Smooth Surface:Large format tiles can naturally warp or dome in the middle; this is normal and not a defect.Leveling clip systems are almost a necessity to pull tiles together and achieve consistent, lippage-free joints.Consider wider grout joints. Industry standards recommend at least three times the facial dimension variance of the tile to manage natural size variations and reduce lippage. Limit tile offsets to 33% to minimize lippage.Cutting and Handling Large Format Tiles:When cutting, support the entire tile to prevent sprawling or breaking; heavy pieces hanging unsupported can crack. Place tiles on rigid insulation or foam board to reduce vibration.Score the tile first and cut slowly using a back-and-forth motion with multiple passes to reduce tension and prevent cracks.These tiles are heavy, so use a dolly or other moving tools to transport them, and don't hesitate to work in teams or "call a friend" to prevent fatigue and injury.

The Timeless Tale of Baked Earth: Unearthing Terracotta's Ancient Secrets & Modern CharmJoin us on a fascinating journey through over 5,000 years of architectural history as we delve into the world of terracotta tiles! From their humble origins as "baked earth" in ancient civilizations to their enduring influence in modern design, these distinctive reddish-brown tiles have a story to tell. In this episode, we explore everything from their diverse characteristics and intricate installation process to how to ensure they last a lifetime in your home.In This Episode, You'll Discover:The Ancient Roots of "Baked Earth":Learn how terracotta – literally meaning "baked earth" in Italian – began its remarkable journey over 5,000 years ago in ancient Mesopotamia, Egypt, and China.Uncover its pivotal role in early construction, from roofing and decoration to shaping the grand architecture of Classical Greece and Rome, including the innovative "imbrex and tegula" water-resistant system.Explore its evolution through the Middle Ages and Renaissance, becoming synonymous with the rustic charm of rural Italy and the intricate artistry of Moorish Spain.Understand that terracotta is indeed a type of ceramic, distinguished by its natural clay base and characteristic reddish-brown hues.Understanding Terracotta's Unique Character:Most terracotta tiles are inherently unglazed and porous, a key characteristic that dictates their need for protection.Witness its proven durability and longevity, with tiles known to last for centuries, even a lifetime, often growing more beautiful with age.Embrace its eco-friendly nature, as it's made from natural, abundant clay, often recyclable, and requires less energy to produce compared to other construction materials. Plus, it doesn't emit harmful volatile organic compounds (VOCs).A Spectrum of Terracotta Tiles: Finding Your Perfect Match:Learn the difference between machine-made "quarry tiles" (offering consistency and thin profiles) and handmade varieties (celebrated for their unique characteristics like variations in size, texture, pitting, undulations, and charmingly uneven edges).Dive into specific types of authentic terracotta, each with its own story:Kodo: Exceptionally dense and durable, often requiring less initial sealing.Saltillo: A classic favorite with moderate durability, known for its wide color variations and irregular surfaces.DeHanus Red: A more refined, uniform handmade option with consistent dark red tones.Organic: The most natural and unapologetically handmade, sun-dried and low-temperature fired, with a rustic, distressed look and minimal carbon footprint.Reclaimed Tiles: Salvaged from old buildings, showcasing a wide spectrum of colors and the natural patina of decades of use.The Art of Terracotta Installation: A Craftsperson's Guide:Preparation is paramount: Ensuring a clean, level, and thoroughly dry surface and acclimatizing tiles for at least 48 hours to prevent expansion or contraction issues.Discover the crucial technique of "back-buttering" – applying adhesive directly to the tile's back – especially for uneven tiles, to ensure a strong bond.Understand the nuances of grouting:Pre-sealing tiles before grouting is absolutely crucial to prevent staining and make grout residue removal easier.Learn why wider grout joints (typically 3/16" to 3/4" or 5-10mm) are common for terracotta.Explore specialized methods like using a grout bag or carefully masking off joints to prevent grout from stubbornly sticking in the tile's natural crevices and pits.Learn how to safely clean stubborn grout residue, sometimes using an acid cleaner with extreme caution.The Protective Embrace of Sealing: After installation and grouting, a protective sealer is applied to repel water and stains, ensuring longevity. You can choose sealers that maintain a natural/matte finish or create a "wet effect" to enhance color.Why Professional Installation is Recommended: Due to the natural variations and specific care requirements, professional installation by an experienced tiler is strongly recommended, as incorrect product application can lead to costly re-work.Caring for Your Terracotta: A Lifetime of Beauty:Learn the essentials of regular cleaning using mild, pH-neutral detergents, and why harsh chemicals or abrasive cleaners should be avoided.Understand the importance of periodic resealing (e.g., every 2-3 years, or 5-15 years for high-quality sealers) to maintain protection against stains and moisture.Discover additional benefits: natural cooling properties in warm climates, being fire-resistant, and compatibility with underfloor heating systems.Episode Breakdown:[00:00] Welcome & Introduction: The Enduring Legacy of Baked Earth[02:15] What is Terracotta? Demystifying the Material's Core Properties[04:40] The Terracotta Family: Understanding Different Types and Their Charm[08:50] The Installation Journey: A Step-by-Step Guide to Laying Terracotta Right[17:30] Living with Terracotta: Maintenance for Lasting Beauty & Key Benefits[22:00] Conclusion: Why Terracotta Remains a Timeless and Sustainable ChoiceDon't forget to like, subscribe, and follow us for more insights into the simple (yet profound) things that shape our world!

Podcast Episode Notes:Episode Title: Connect & Grow: Leveraging Your Network for Business SuccessEpisode Summary: In this episode, we dive deep into the power of genuine connection and how to leverage your existing network and social media in authentic ways to drive sales and growth. Forget the pushy tactics; this is about being a human being first and building relationships that fuel momentum.Key Topics Covered:The Core Principle: Why "People buy the person, not the product." Understanding that relationships are the foundation of lasting business success.Listening is Key: The crucial importance of truly listening and paying attention to people – online and off – to find common ground and understand their world. This is what makes you a great salesperson and allows for personalization.Mining Your Network: Discovering that you likely have a much larger list of potential connections than you realize by gathering all your contacts from email, social media, and phone.Being Personal, Not Pushy: How to reach out and engage in a way that is authentic and based on genuine interest in the other person, rather than immediately selling.Building Momentum with Small Actions: How consistent, thoughtful interactions can build trust and keep you top of mind with your network.Getting Your First Customers: Practical steps for leveraging your existing network to land your initial clients, even starting with free or discounted offers to gain experience, feedback, and testimonials.Scaling Ethically: How to transition from free/discounted services to charging full price as you build demand and value.Specific Takeaways & Actionable Strategies:Organize Your Contacts: Start by creating a master list from your email, social media connections (those you can DM), and phone contacts. This is your initial pool of potential leads.Pick One Platform: Focus your initial outreach efforts on the platform where you have the most connections or feel most comfortable.Personalize Your Message: When reaching out, use something you already know about the person or their profile to show you've taken time to understand them. Mentioning a shared interest, a life event, or something specific you noticed makes a big difference.The "48 Cents" Strategy: Dedicate time weekly (e.g., 30-60 minutes) [5, see scheduling context] to leave 24 positive, thoughtful comments on the social media posts of people in your network, especially those who post actively. Focus on personal or in-house posts, not automated ones.Offer Value First: If you're starting out, consider offering your service for free or heavily discounted to initial contacts in exchange for feedback, testimonials, and reviews. This lowers the barrier for them and helps you get "reps" to improve.Don't Be Afraid to Ask for Referrals: Once you've provided value (even for free), don't hesitate to ask them if they know anyone else who might benefit from your service.Quote to Remember: "People buy the person, not the product."

Episode Description: Join us as we explore the world of Luxury Vinyl Tile (LVT) and Luxury Vinyl Plank (LVP) flooring. We break down the different types of LVT, from flexible glue-down to rigid core click-lock systems. Learn essential tips for subfloor preparation, including how to handle wood and concrete, the critical difference between flat and level, and how to tackle moisture issues that can derail your project. We'll guide you through the installation process for both click-lock and glue-down methods, emphasizing the importance of acclimation and perimeter gaps. Plus, we cover common troubleshooting steps and define key construction terms like plumb, level, and square. Whether you're a DIYer or a pro, this episode is packed with insights for a successful LVT installation.In this episode, we cover:*What is LVT/LVP?*** Made with PVC and plasticizers, making them flexible.*LVT** (Luxury Vinyl Tile) and LVP (Luxury Vinyl Plank) refer to the size difference, with plank designation being for size.*Types of LVT Installation:***Click System:** Planks lock together without mortar or glue. It's a unique system where you take planks out of the box, click them together, and they are in place. This system creates a water-resistant floor when locked together tightly.*Rigid Core LVT:** A newer type that adds a structural element to the vinyl tile. It is a floating floor, potentially saving on demo or prep of existing hard surfaces. It often includes sound dampening capabilities.*Glue Down:** Involves applying adhesive to the subfloor. Requires subfloor preparation like putting down plywood underlay and patching.*Benefits of LVT:***Durability:** Known for durability with a lifespan of 10-20 years. Has superior strength against wear, tear, and moisture.*Easy Installation:** The click-lock system is DIY-friendly. Glue-down can also be achieved by a novice.*Cost-Effective:** Generally less expensive than tile, stone, or terrazzo, especially considering installation costs and time. Installation labor is typically significantly less.*Low Maintenance:** Does not require waxing, resealing, or stripping. The manufactured finish is the final finish.*Variety of Designs:** Available in a wide range of designs, including realistic wood, stone, and tile looks.*Understanding LVT Structure:*** A multi-layered product.* Includes a vinyl core (or base layer) for stability.* A print layer for the desired aesthetic.A *wear layer** to protect from wear and tear; thickness impacts durability against scratches and stains. Heavier wear layers are needed for commercial use compared to residential.* A top coat for UV protection and finish.* Rigid core materials have an additional rigid core layer underneath the vinyl core. Some rigid core materials also have a sound dampening layer.*Subfloor Preparation - The Key to Success:*** Preparation is crucial for any installation.Subfloor must be *smooth, flat, and level**. Imperfections can show through or cause tension.* You can't have bumps or humps underneath LVT. LVT is pliable, and imperfections can show as you walk on the floor.* Tension created by dips and bumps can cause the click-lock system to come undone or break, leading to tenting and tiles pulling apart.*Flatness vs. Level:** It's critical to understand they are not the same.*Level:** Horizontally aligned with gravity. Used to establish pitch for slanted surfaces or describes a flat surface with no irregularities in concrete work.*Flat:** A smooth, even surface without dips or bumps. Flatness is what matters most for LVT. Typical requirement is 1/8 inch in 10 feet.*Wood Floors:** Use a scraper or hammer to deal with screws or nails popping up. Prep seams of plywood with a patch material. Patch low spots to avoid hollow spots underfoot. Use a level to check for light between the level and subfloor; any gaps should be filled. Serious issues may require self-leveling.*Concrete Floors:** Check for flatness even if it seems flat. Any variations need to be filled with patch or self-leveling material. Most of the time won't have screws.*Moisture Issues (especially with Concrete):*** Excess moisture adversely affects flooring. It can compromise the flooring's integrity.* Moisture issues can lead to warping, mildew growth, and problems with planks separating or tenting.* Before 1979, petroleum-based cutback adhesives were durable and water-resistant. Low VOC formulations introduced later could not hold up under high moisture environments, increasing moisture failures.* Technology advancements are helping solve moisture issues without creating adverse air quality problems.* ASTM International Standard F710 is a common reference for preparing concrete floors, including installing a moisture barrier, cleaning/testing the slab, and ensuring materials/environment are acclimated.* For new construction, an effective, permanent moisture vapor retarder (flexible plastic sheet) should be placed under the slab (ASTM 1745). Most manufacturers suggest Class B or better. Permeance, tensile strength, and puncture resistance define the classes.* For existing structures, the slab should be clean, free of residue (including cut back adhesive), dry, and structurally sound.*Testing for Moisture:** The moisture level is composed of three readings: relative humidity, moisture vapor emission rate, and/or pH.*Relative Humidity (RH):** Percentage of moisture within a slab relative to how much it could hold. Tested by drilling into the slab and using a sensor. Most LVT manufacturers warranty installations on concrete substrates with a maximum RH of 85% using an probe test (ASTM F2170). Wood substrates can use an RH meter.*Moisture Vapor Emission Rate (MVER):** Also called a calcium chloride test; measures surface moisture. Performed by sealing calcium chloride on concrete under a dome for three days and weighing the moisture absorbed.*Potential Hydrogen (pH):** Scale of 0-14. Fresh concrete is usually 12-13, moving lower as it cures. High moisture means higher pH. Test pH when choosing adhesives, especially for existing structures. Can use paper testing strips.*What Goes Wrong:** High RH or MVER with the wrong adhesive can cause it to emulsify, ooze at seams, and the floor to curl, bubble, emit odor, or be easily displaced. Water will find a way out.*New vs. Older Slabs:** New slabs start at 100% RH and should decrease as they cure. Older slabs can have high RH due to hydrostatic pressure (below water table), poor drainage, or leaks. High RH in an old slab may require finding the source of moisture.*Solving Moisture Issues:** Options include chemical sealants (check compatibility with adhesive/warranty), moisture suppressant systems (check adhesive/flooring compatibility), moisture resistant adhesives (spray, trowel, peel and bond), or dry installation using tabs or a floating/interlocking floor. Dry installation is an option with elevated moisture readings. Tabs often require no moisture testing, and most floating/click installations are 90%+ RH compatible.*Acclimation:*** Always required with LVT.* Allows the material to adjust to the temperature and humidity of the installation space. Drastic temperature changes can cause havoc.* Acclimate for 24 to 48 hours ahead of time. Some recommendations are 48-72 hours.* Store LVT in the installation space at stable temperature (typically 65-85°F) and humidity (35-65%).* Proper acclimation ensures a stable, long-lasting installation.*Layout and Installation (Click-Lock):*** Layout is crucial for a professional look.*Critical:** Leaving a gap around the perimeter of the room. Tension from temperature changes needs room; no gap can cause tinting, click system pulling apart, or flooring coming up. Read directions for suggested gap size. Spacers can help maintain the gap.* The gap can be covered by baseboard installed on top of the floor (if baseboard is not yet installed) or by quarter round/shoe molding (if baseboard is existing).* Make sure the short end of the LVT is against your starting wall.* Fit the tongue and groove system together, lay them down, click into place, and adjust. Locks together tight, creating a water-resistant floor.* Damaged pieces should be laid aside and used for cuts.*Cutting:** Can use hand tools, a carpenter's miter box, or a razor knife. Strike your line, cut with a razor knife, and pop the material.* Any cut tiles go at the end of the room or around a wall and should be covered by base or shoe molding.*Working Backwards:** The click system allows you to lift a tile and slide it to adjust.*Head Joints:** Can be tricky. If there's a gap after laying, a rubber mallet can help; tap the end of the LVT carefully to pop it in. Be careful to protect the tongue and groove system.*Installation (Glue-Down):*** Requires a plywood underlay down on OSB or plywood. Need to patch joints and big gaps with water patch. Apply patch thinly or in multiple coats. Let it dry and sand.* Ensure material sits under door jams; cut jams if needed.* Apply the recommended glue using a trowel. Work from one corner up. Avoid thick spots. Glue should be sticky when set. Pressure-sensitive glue sticks more the more you push on it.* Cut edges towards the wall. Wipe glue off immediately if needed.* Cutting can be done with a guillotine, square and sharp knife. Score the material and bend it to snap.* May need creative techniques to keep rows straight, especially when continuing from an old floor.* Sometimes easier to cover obstructions like vents and cut them out afterwards.*Expansion Gaps and Transition Strips:*** Leaving a space around the perimeter is critical. This gap allows for expansion and contraction, preventing issues.* A perimeter gap is typically 1/4 to 1/2 inch, depending on the manufacturer.* Gap should be left around edges of the room and covered by baseboards or trim. Don't forget kitchen islands.* Transition strips can be used for expansion joints.*Troubleshooting Common Issues:***Planks Separating & Tenting/Buckling:**

Tile Transformation: Paint it or Plank it (Almost!)Intro (0:00-1:00)Tired of your outdated tile? Don't want the mess of a full demo? You've got options!Introduce the two main contenders: painting over tile and tiling over tile.Disclaimer: We'll break down the pros and cons of each to help you decide what's right for your project.Painting Over Tile (1:00-7:00)The Allure of Paint:Budget-friendly and a quick way to change the look.Great for a style refresh or covering dated tile.Can turn a bland wall into a focal point.The Reality Check:Not a long-term fix compared to original tile.Paint can chip, scratch, and peel, especially in high-traffic or high-moisture areas.Grout lines disappear leading to a less defined look.Generally not recommended for floor tile due to wear.Painting shower tiles is also generally not recommended due to direct water exposure, though specialized products exist.Key to Success: Preparation!Clean thoroughly with a degreasing soap like Krud Kutter or TSP. Ensure the surface is squeaky clean.Sand the tiles (100-200 grit sandpaper) to create a better surface for adhesion.Crucial step: Prime with a high-adhesion primer like STIX primer. This helps the paint bond to the glossy tile surface.Choosing the Right Paint:Use multiple thin coats of a semi-gloss finish for a tile-like shine.For bathrooms and high humidity, use a mildew-resistant paint like Aura Bath & Spa.Consider waterborne alkyd paints for a durable, high-end finish, such as Behr Cabinet & Trim Enamel.For areas with permanent water contact (like showers), a 2-component epoxy-based tile paint (tile paint 2K) might be an option, requiring mixing resin and hardener.Application Tips: Roll the primer/paint, then brush into grout lines, then smooth with the roller.Remember: Paint can chip and peel, especially in tough areas.Tiling Over Tile (7:00-13:00)The Promise of Permanence:A more permanent and durable solution compared to paint.The Complexities:Generally more complex and costly than painting.Requires more expertise.Foundation First: Assessing Your Existing Tile:Crucially, the old tile must be in good shape.It needs to be solidly attached. Perform a tap test with a wood mallet; hollow sounds indicate loose tiles. Loose tiles should NOT be tiled over.The surface must be flat and level.No cracks, crumbling grout, or signs of moisture. Tiling over leaks is a bad idea.Preparation is Still Key:Clean the existing tile thoroughly.You cannot apply thinset directly to old tile because it won't stick. Especially glossy or polished tile.Use a bonding primer specifically designed for tiling over tile, such as ECO Prim Grip or Prime and Bond from Laticrete. This creates a gritty surface for the mortar to bond to.Mix the primer well before application. Apply with a roller or brush.Installation: Proceed with standard tile installation techniques.Potential Drawbacks:The added thickness of the new tile can cause problems with door clearances, thresholds, and other fittings.Consider the transition to adjoining rooms.Increased weight, especially on walls, could be an issue.If you ever remove the tile, you'll have two layers to deal with.Conclusion (13:00-15:00)Quick recap of the pros and cons of painting vs. tiling over.Painting is budget-friendly and quick for a style update but not long-term and has limitations in wet/high-traffic areas.Tiling over is more permanent and durable but more complex, costly, and requires a solid foundation and proper prep.Ultimately, the right method depends on your budget, desired longevity, the condition of your existing tile, and the location of the project.Thorough preparation and using the right materials are crucial for success with either method.Consider consulting professionals for advice.Outro (15:00-16:00)Thank listeners for tuning in.www.tilebar.com

Introduction:Ever been wowed by tile in one light, then horrified in another? Today we're diving into the dramatic, and sometimes deceiving, world of lighting and its effect on tile installations.Our host reveals how different lighting can completely change the look of the same tile job, even making a perfect install appear flawed.The Problem: When Light Highlights Defects (Even if They Aren't There):Critical lighting (like wall wash or graze lighting) shines at a low angle, almost parallel to the tile surface.This creates shadows that exaggerate even minor, acceptable imperfections in the tile and installation.Think tiny variations in flatness (warpage) or slight lippage (uneven tile edges) – normal under industry standards – can look like major flaws under the wrong light.The host demonstrates this with a patterned tile, showing how bringing a light closer to the wall makes the pattern much more pronounced due to the shadows cast.Why This Matters:Homeowners and inspectors unfamiliar with this effect might wrongly blame the tile contractor for a perceived bad installation and demand costly replacements.A perfectly acceptable tile job can be deemed "crap" simply due to poor lighting choices.The Solution: Distance is Your Friend:The key takeaway: move the light source further away from the tiled surface.A distance of at least 18 inches away from the wall is generally recommended to soften shadows and avoid highlighting minor imperfections.This "washes" the wall with light at a less sharp angle, creating a more even and flattering illumination.Contractor Considerations:Be aware of the lighting plan before starting a job.If wall wash or close-proximity lighting is specified, discuss the potential effects with the client and designers early on.Ideally, request that permanent lighting be installed before tiling so you can see the impact as you work.This allows you to adjust your technique and manage expectations proactively.Consider using temporary lighting that mimics the final lighting conditions during installation.Real-World Example:The host shares a personal observation in Penn Station, where the same tile looks drastically different on a curved wall due to the varying proximity of the lighting fixtures. One section with lights further away looks fine, while another with lights right up against the wall appears uneven and poorly installed.Call to Action:Be mindful of lighting in tile installations.Contractors: discuss lighting with clients and designers.Designers: consider the impact of lighting on the final tile appearance.Everyone: aim for lighting that enhances the tile's beauty, not its perceived flaws.

Why did my TILE crack?Tired of cracked tiles and unexpected pop-ups? Discover the secret weapon against tile failure: movement joints!Main Talking Points:The Undeniable Need for Movement Joints:◦ Why all building materials move. Hear about structural movement and material expansion/contraction.◦ Understanding differential movement between various materials like tile, mortar, substrate, wood, and concrete.◦ Movement joints as "stress relievers" in your tile assembly.◦ The number one cause of tile failure: lack of movement joints.Planning for Success - Where and Why:Consulting the design professional and the importance of asking clients about planned movement joints.Perimeter Joints are a MUST: Leaving a crucial gap at walls and restraining surfaces.◦ Internal Corners (In Corners): Why grout isn't enough and the role of sealant.◦ Transitions Between Dissimilar Materials: Protecting tile where it meets wood, metal, etc..◦ In-Field Movement Joints: Addressing movement in larger tiled areas with proper spacing (referencing TCNA EJ171).◦ Honoring Substrate Joints: Carrying existing concrete joints through the tile work.◦ Changes of Plane: Floor to wall and wall to wall considerations.• Sealant vs. Caulk: Know Your Arsenal:◦ The distinct difference between acrylic-based caulk and silicone-based joint sealant.◦ Why silicone sealant is superior for tile due to strength and elasticity.◦ The importance of durability and water resistance.◦ Mentioning color-matched sealant options.◦ Sealant must be 100% silicone, urethane, or polysulfide as per EJ17125 .• Proper Installation Techniques:◦ Emphasizing the need to leave a gap for movement.◦ Keeping joints clean from mortar and grout.◦ Using a backup rod for wider joints.◦ How sealant should adhere only to the sides of the tiles.• The Price of Neglect: Failure is Inevitable:◦ Highlighting potential problems like tile tenting, cracking, and bond failure.◦ The possibility of issues arising months or years later .• The Ultimate Resource: TCNA EJ171:◦ Directing listeners to the Tile Council of North America (TCNA) Handbook and EJ171 for detailed guidelines and calculations.◦ Mentioning ASTM C1193 for sealant application.Don't let a small oversight lead to big problems. By understanding and implementing movement joints with the right sealant, you can ensure your tile and stone installations stand the test of time. Check out the TCNA Handbook EJ171 for all the specifics!Subscribe for more essential tile installation tips! Leave a comment with your movement joint experiences!TileBar.comYouTube: @TiletheWorld

IntroductionWelcome to the Tile the World podcast! Today, we're diving into the world of natural stone care. Whether you're a homeowner or a stone professional, this guide will help you understand the best practices for choosing, protecting, and maintaining natural stone.• Natural stone is a unique and beautiful material created by nature over millions of years. Proper care is essential to preserve its beauty.Understanding Your Stone• Natural stone is categorized into three main types: sedimentary, metamorphic, and igneous. Stones in each category can be either calcareous or siliceous.• Calcareous stone, like marble and limestone, is mainly composed of calcium carbonate, making it sensitive to acids.• Siliceous stone is composed of silicates, such as quartz, and is generally more resistant to acids.• Understanding your stone's composition helps determine the best cleaning products to use.The Importance of Sealing• Sealing is strongly recommended for all natural stone, especially newly installed marble, granite, and limestone.• Sealers, or "impregnators," don't make the stone stain-proof but more stain-resistant, providing time to clean up spills.• There are two main types of sealers:◦ Penetrating/impregnating sealers: These are no-sheen, natural-look sealers suitable for interior and exterior use. They penetrate the stone and protect it from within.◦ Stone enhancer sealers: These are also penetrating sealers, but they darken, enrich, and highlight the stone's natural color.• Always follow the manufacturer's directions when applying sealer.• Apply sealer liberally in small sections, let it soak in, and then wipe off excess. Allow 15 minutes for the sealer to soak in before wiping off.• A second coat can be applied after 30 minutes and then wiped off. Let the stone cure for 72 hours.• Test your sealer regularly by dropping water on the surface. If water absorbs quickly, it's time to reseal.Routine Cleaning and Maintenance• Clean stone surfaces with a neutral cleaner, stone soap, or mild dishwashing detergent and warm water.• Avoid acidic cleaners like vinegar, lemon juice, or harsh bathroom cleaners, as they can damage the stone.• Avoid abrasive cleaners such as scouring powders or creams that can scratch the stone.• Use a clean rag mop for floors and a soft cloth for other surfaces.• Rinse thoroughly with clean water, changing the water frequently.• For soap scum, use a non-acidic soap scum remover or a solution of ammonia and water (1/2 cup ammonia to a gallon of water). Caution: overuse of ammonia can dull the surface.• For outdoor areas, flush with clear water and use a mild bleach solution to remove algae or moss.• Preventative measures:◦ Use coasters under glasses.◦ Use trivets or mats under hot dishes.◦ Dust mop floors frequently using a clean, non-treated dry dust mop.◦ Use mats or rugs inside and outside entrances.◦ Avoid using worn vacuum cleaners that can scratch the surface.◦ Blot up spills immediately. Don't wipe, as this will spread the spill.Stain Removal• Identifying the type of stain is key to removing it.• Common stain types:◦ Oil-based: (grease, cooking oil, cosmetics) Clean gently with mineral spirits or acetone.◦ Organic: (food, coffee, tea, fruit, urine) May cause pinkish-brown stains. Clean with 12% hydrogen peroxide and a few drops of ammonia. Outdoors, sun and rain can bleach stains out.◦ Metal: (rust, copper) May require a poultice.◦ Biological: (algae, mildew) Clean with diluted ammonia, bleach, or hydrogen peroxide (1/2 cup to a gallon of water). Do not mix bleach and ammonia.◦ Ink: Clean light stones with bleach or hydrogen peroxide. On dark stones, use lacquer thinner or acetone.◦ Paint: Small amounts can be scraped off or removed with lacquer thinner. For larger amounts use a commercial paint stripper.◦ Water spots and rings: Buff with dry 0000 steel wool.• Poultices:◦ Poultices can be used to draw out stubborn stains.◦ Mix baking soda or kaolin clay with hydrogen peroxide to create a thick paste. For tough rust stains, you can add a few drops of ammonia.◦ Spread the paste about 1/4 inch thick over the stain, and cover it with plastic wrap, taping down the edges to keep it moist.◦ Leave for 24-48 hours, remove the plastic wrap, let the poultice dry completely, then scrape it off.◦ Clean the area with distilled water and a soft cloth and dry it thoroughly.◦ Poultices may dull the shine of polished stone, and you may need to use a stone polish to restore the shine.When to Call a Professional• For etch marks, deep scratches, or stains that you can't remove yourself, consult a stone professional.• If you have fire or smoke damage you may need a professional.• For efflorescence (a white powder on the surface) that won't go away, contact your installer.Conclusion• Natural stone is a durable and beautiful material that requires the right care to ensure it lasts a lifetime.• By following these steps, you can keep your natural stone surfaces looking their best for years to come.These notes cover the key points from the audio overview, providing a structured guide for listeners to refer back to. They include essential information about stone types, sealing, cleaning, stain removal, and maintenance, emphasizing preventative measures and when to seek professional help.

Mastering the Job Site VisitIntroductionJob sites are a key source of business in the construction and equipment industries.• Understanding the dynamics of a job site is essential for sales professionals.• A sales rep's approach should be about adding value, not creating a distraction.Key Concepts• Job sites are the pulse of construction: They reveal current projects and future opportunities.• Safety First: Always wear proper Personal Protective Equipment (PPE).• Observation is Key: Before approaching, assess the site's activity. Avoid showing up during critical times like concrete pours or meetings.• Respect the GC's role: Check in at the job trailer to introduce yourself. This allows them to manage the site effectively.• Value-Added Proposition: Sales reps should bring resources, not just sales pitches. They should aim to make the job site more efficient.How to Add Value• Be a Resource: Help the GC to find the necessary equipment and materials so the project can run smoothly.• Be Prepared: Tile sales professionals should be ready with measuring tools, samples, and a camera or phone.• Offer Mock-ups: Demonstrate how tile will look with grout.• Document Everything: Take photos of issues, from multiple angles and including overall context.• Listen: What are the concerns of the team on site? What are their perspectives?• Be Kind: Your presence might be disruptive.Key Takeaways• Job site visits are not just about selling: They're about building relationships and providing solutions.• Focus on being a resource, rather than just making a sales pitch.• Always be prepared, respectful, and aware of your surroundings on the job site.• Make sure to check in at the job trailer.• Always be prepared with PPE and a way to document.Call to Action• Consider how you can make job sites run more efficiently..• Be prepared for your next job site visit by using the provided checklists.• Think about what value you are bringing to the job site.• What is your next project?

Stone Mosaic Tile Installation: Avoid Costly Mistakes & Achieve a Pro FinishDreaming of a luxurious stone mosaic backsplash or shower floor? This episode is your ultimate guide to installing natural stone mosaic tiles, like those in TileBar's Nature Collection. We break down the crucial steps, from the all-important dry layout to proper grouting, helping you avoid common pitfalls and achieve a professional, seamless look. Learn how to handle the challenges of natural stone, like inconsistent gaps and mesh warpage. Whether you're a seasoned DIYer or a design professional, you'll find invaluable tips to master stone mosaic installation.Key Highlights:• The Crucial Dry Layout: Discover why a dry layout is non-negotiable for stone mosaic tile projects. Learn how to identify inconsistencies and plan your installation for a seamless finish.• Trowel Talk: Understand the importance of using a 1/4" x 1/4" notched trowel.• Pressing Power: Why you need to firmly press mosaic sheets into the thinset, and not rely on the mesh backing.• Seam Secrets: Techniques to minimize visible seams, including offsetting sheets, adjusting edge stones, and filling gaps with loose stones.• Grout Guidance: Learn how to properly grout stone mosaics, including the importance of pre-sealing and maintaining the correct grout level.• Nature Collection Insights: Details about the TileBar's Nature collection, including its use of natural stone and varied textures for a rustic, outdoor feel.• Common Challenges: How to address common issues such as, inconsistent gaps, and misalignment.• Material Considerations: Natural stone variations, and what to expect when working with these materials.• Installation Techniques: Practical tips and techniques for cutting and placing stones.Links & Resources:• TileBar Website: www.tilebar.comLearn more here:- YouTube: https://www.youtube.com/@tiletheworld- Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/tilenerdarmy/• TileBar Nature Collection: https://www.tilebar.com/collection/tile-mosaic-collections/nature-collection.html• TCNA Manual: https://tcnatile.com/• TileBar Contact: ccahoon@tilebar.comKeywords: stone mosaic tile, tile installation, natural stone, DIY tile, home renovation, TileBar, Nature collection, tile grout, thinset, dry layout, tile seams, mesh backing, pre-sealing, grout release, tiling tips, interior design, home improvement, tile trowel, grout float, tile warpage, 365 day return policy.Call to Action: Ready to tackle your stone mosaic project? Don't forget to subscribe for more tile tips and tricks! Share this episode with any fellow design enthusiasts, and let us know what you'd like to learn next in the comments

Episode Notes:● Introduction (0:00-1:00)○ Welcome to the podcast! Today, we're talking about grout color, a key design element often overlooked in tile projects.○ Grout is more than just filler; it impacts the overall aesthetics and maintenance of any tile installation.○ We’ll explore how to choose the right grout color based on your tile and desired design.● Matching Grout to Tile (1:00-3:00)○ Matching grout color to tile creates a seamless, uniform look, perfect for showcasing the tile itself.○ Ideal for neutral tiles, this approach prevents distraction from the tile pattern.○ A close match or going one shade lighter works best.○ Keywords: matching grout, uniform look, neutral tiles, seamless design● Contrasting Grout Color (3:00-5:00)○ Using a contrasting grout color makes a bold design statement and emphasizes the tile pattern.○ Dark grout with light tiles is a popular choice, adding warmth and visual interest.○ Be aware of potential staining when using contrasting colors, especially with crackled or crazed tiles.○ Sealing grout is crucial when using contrasting colors to prevent stains.○ Keywords: contrasting grout, bold design, dark grout, light tiles, graphic focal point, sealer● Neutral Grout Color (5:00-7:00)○ A neutral grout color, such as gray or beige, offers a balanced look and is easier to maintain than white.○Works well with both light and dark tiles.○ A versatile option for various design styles.○ Keywords: neutral grout, balanced look, gray grout, beige grout● Specific Grout Color Considerations (7:00-9:00)○ White grout is great for hiding grout lines with light tiles, making colors pop, but requires more cleaning.○ Black grout is a bold, low-maintenance choice but needs regular wiping and can fade with harsh cleaners.○ For colored tiles, use a warmer, neutral grout rather than attempting to match exactly.○ For colorful mosaics, a soft contrast is best to highlight patterns.○ If the tile connects to a tiled floor, consider a grout that complements the floor. * Keywords: white grout, black grout, colored tiles, mosaic tiles● Practical Tips for Choosing Grout Color (9:00-11:00)○ Always test grout samples against your tiles to see how they look together.○ Grout will dry lighter than it appears when wet.○ Use a grout color chart to view samples next to your tile.○ Seal cement-based grout to protect against stains; epoxy and urethane grouts do not need sealing.● Conclusion (11:00-12:00)○ Choosing the right grout color is a balance of aesthetics and practicality.○ By understanding the different options and considerations, you can achieve your desired look.○ Join us next week for more tile and design tips!○ Keywords: tile design, grout selection, home improvement, design tipsCall to Action:● Visit our website for more grout color resources and design inspiration.● Share your tile projects with us on social media!● Subscribe to our podcast for more expert tips.● Grout color● Tile grout● Matching grout● Contrasting grout● Neutral grout● White grout● Black grout● Epoxy grout● Cement-based grout● Grout sealer● Tile design● Home improvement● DIY tile● Kitchen backsplash● Bathroom remodel● Tile installation● Design tips

Join us for a special countdown of the top 10 tiling tips and tricks from Tile of the World, straight from Craig and the Tile Nerd Army. We'll cover everything from layout and planning to advanced techniques like miter cuts. Whether you're a seasoned tiler or a DIY enthusiast, this episode is packed with valuable insights to elevate your tiling game.Key Takeaways:Layout and Planning: A dry layout is essential for visualizing the final result, especially with intricate patterns and mosaics.Substrate Preparation: A solid foundation is crucial for a successful tile installation. Ensure your substrate is clean, level, and free of imperfections.Grout: Grout is more than just filler. It plays a vital role in structural integrity, aesthetics, and system protection.Conquering Stone Mosaics: Taming these intricate beauties requires patience and precision. A dry layout and intentional gaps can help achieve a natural, seamless look.3D Tiles: Conquer the challenges of penetrations and corners with specialized tools and techniques.Working with Glass Tile: Master the art of cutting glass tile with a wet saw and diamond blade.Movement Joints: Strategically placed movement joints prevent cracking and ensure a long-lasting installation.Tile and Stone Sealer Secrets: Choose the right sealer based on the porosity of your tile and the type of grout.Blank Shower Shelves: Elevate your shower organization with sleek, stylish shelves that install directly into grout lines.LVT Click Flooring: This innovative flooring option offers a stylish, durable, and DIY-friendly solution.Bonus Tip: Master the Miter Cut Learn how to create clean, finished corners without using trim pieces. This technique requires precision and practice, but the results are worth it.Call to Action:Subscribe to the Tile of the World Podcast: Stay tuned for more expert advice and inspiration.Visit Tilebar.com: Discover a wide range of tiles and tools to bring your tiling projects to life.Join the Tile Nerd Army on Instagram and @ Tile the World on YouTube: Connect with the community and share your tiling adventures.

Episode Title: LVT: The Deep Divehttps://www.ccahoon.com/podcastEpisode Description: Dive deep into the world of Luxury Vinyl Tile (LVT). Learn the ins and outs of LVT, from its construction to installation, and how to troubleshoot common issues. This episode is a must-listen for anyone in the flooring industry, from salespeople and designers to DIY enthusiasts.Key Takeaways:LVT Basics:LVT vs. LVP: Understand the difference between tiles and planks.Rigid Core LVT: Learn about the benefits of this durable and sound-dampening option.LVT Construction: Explore the layers of LVT, including the base layer, print layer, and wear layer.LVT Installation:Subfloor Preparation: The importance of a smooth and level surface.Acclimation: Why it's crucial to let LVT adjust to its new environment.Expansion Gaps: How to prevent problems caused by temperature and humidity changes.LVT Troubleshooting:Plank Separation: Common causes and solutions.Tenting and Buckling: Identifying the root of the problem and fixing it.Common LVT Myths: Debunking misconceptions about LVT.Additional Resources:YouTube Channel: @Tile the WorldInstagram: @TileNerdArmyWebsite:Tilebar.comCall to Action: Subscribe to the podcast for more informative and engaging episodes. Share this episode with your friends and colleagues. And most importantly, start owning your LVT knowledge!

Miter Tile InstallationPage 1: What is a Miter?A miter is a joint made by cutting two pieces of material at an angle, usually 45 degrees, so they fit together to form a 90-degree corner [1]. Miter cuts are a common woodworking technique but can also be applied to tile installation for a seamless and polished look.Instead of using trim pieces to cover exposed tile edges, a miter cut uses the tile itself to create a finished edge [2, 3].This eliminates the need for additional trim pieces, resulting in a more cohesive and modern design [3].When done correctly, a miter joint should have no visible gaps or uneven edges [3].Page 2: When to Use a MiterMiter cuts are versatile and can be used in various tile applications. They are especially well-suited for:Inside and Outside Corners: Miter cuts create a clean and professional finish for both inside and outside corners [4]. This technique is commonly used in shower niches [5, 6], where the mitered edges of the niche tiles meet the surrounding wall tiles at a 90-degree angle [6].Transitions Between Materials: Miter cuts can be used to create a smooth transition between different types of tile or between tile and other materials like stone [4].Water Features: The seamless nature of miter joints makes them a good choice for areas with water exposure, such as shower surrounds. The tight joint helps prevent water from seeping into the gaps and causing damage [4].Situations Where Miters May Not Be Suitable:Large Format Tiles: While miter cuts can be done on large format tiles, they can be more challenging to execute accurately. The size and weight of the tiles make it difficult to control the cut and prevent chipping [7]. For large format porcelain tiles, it's often recommended to use a 4-inch grinder instead of a wet saw for mitering [7].Tiles with Intricate Patterns: Tiles with intricate patterns or textures may not be suitable for mitering as the cut edge can disrupt the visual flow of the pattern.Inexperience: Mitering requires precision and practice. For beginners, it is recommended to start with smaller, inexpensive tiles to practice the technique [8]. This allows you to hone your skills and minimize material waste due to errors.Page 3: How to Install a MiterTools and MaterialsTile or stone of your choiceWet saw with a diamond bladeAngle grinder with diamond cutting blade and polishing padsMeasuring tapeLevelPencil or markerSafety glasses and glovesThinset mortarGroutEpoxy (optional, for filling miter joints)Silicone sealantSteps:Plan and Measure: Determine the location of the miter joints and carefully measure the tiles that need to be cut. Remember that when mitering the joints between wall tiles and niche tiles, the wall tiles must protrude into the niche box by the thickness of the tile and thinset [9].Make Straight Cuts: Before mitering, make any necessary straight cuts using a wet saw. This will ensure the tile is the correct size before you start cutting the angles.Mark the Miter Cut Line: On the tile, mark the line where the miter cut will be made. When cutting miters, it is best practice to leave a small section of the factory edge on the tile [10, 11]. This helps strengthen the mitered edge and provides a more substantial surface for applying epoxy or silicone.Cut the Miter: Using a wet saw with the blade set at a 45-degree angle, carefully cut the tile along the marked line [12]. To ensure a clean cut and minimize chipping, feed the tile through the saw slowly and steadily. For smaller tiles or tiles prone to chipping, consider using an angle grinder with a diamond cutting blade [9].Refine the Cut: After cutting, use a tile file or sandpaper to smooth any rough edges on the mitered cut. To achieve a polished finish, use progressively finer grits of sandpaper or diamond polishing pads attached to an angle grinder [13, 14].Dry Fit: Before applying any adhesive, dry fit the mitered pieces together to ensure a tight and seamless fit. Make any necessary adjustments to the cuts.Apply Adhesive: Apply a thin layer of thinset mortar to the back of the tile and position it in place. Use a level to ensure the tile is plumb and even with the surrounding tiles.Fill the Miter Joint: Depending on the desired finish, you can fill the miter joint with grout, epoxy, or silicone sealant. Epoxy provides the most durable and water-resistant finish [11, 15], while silicone is more flexible and forgiving. Grout can be used, but it tends to crack in miters over time [15].Clean and Cure: After installing the mitered tiles, clean up any excess adhesive or grout. Allow the adhesive to cure completely before grouting or sealing the joints. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions for curing times.Tips for Success:Practice on scrap tiles before working on your actual project [8, 14].Use a sharp diamond blade for clean cuts and minimize chipping.Cut the miter slightly steeper than 45 degrees to ensure a tight outside edge [16].Support the tile adequately during cutting to prevent breakage.Take your time and work carefully for precision.If using epoxy, mix small batches to avoid waste.Use a grout float or a small spatula to apply epoxy or silicone sealant to the miter joint.Consider using masking tape to protect surrounding tiles when applying epoxy.By following these steps and using the right tools and techniques, you can create beautiful and durable mitered tile installations that enhance the overall look of your project.

Podcast Episode Notes: Finding the Perfect Tile InstallerEpisode Title: Tile Troubleshooter: How to Find a Great Tile InstallerEpisode Description: Tired of tile disasters? In this episode, we dive deep into the world of tile installation. We'll share tips and tricks on how to find the perfect tile installer for your next project. From experience and training to portfolios and red flags, we've got you covered.Key Takeaways:Experience Matters: Look for installers with at least 5 years of experience.Training is Crucial: Ensure they've undergone training from reputable organizations like the NTCA.Portfolio Power: Request a portfolio showcasing a variety of projects.Red Flag Alert: Be wary of overly low bids or a lack of a formal contract.Communication is Key: A good installer will be responsive and transparent.Certifications Count: Look for certifications like the CTI.Educate Your Clients: Explain the importance of hiring a skilled installer to ensure a long-lasting, beautiful result.Discussion Points:What questions should you ask potential installers?How can you assess an installer's communication skills?What are some common mistakes made by inexperienced installers?How can you protect yourself and your clients from potential issues?Call to Action:Share your experiences with finding a good tile installer on social media.Visit Tilebar.com for more tips and resources.Subscribe to our podcast for more expert advice.Additional Tips:Encourage listeners to ask for references from past clients.Remind listeners to factor in the cost of quality installation when budgeting for a tile project.Discuss the importance of a good working relationship between the designer and the installer.