The Temple of Surf Podcast

This week on The Temple of Surf Podcast, we sit down with one of the most respected, quietly influential surfboard shapers of the past four decades: Rob Vaughan. A master craftsman, a true student of wave mechanics, and a lifelong innovator, Rob has shaped a legacy that stretches from the golden era of Californian surfing to the performance-driven boards of today. In this in-depth conversation, he opens up about his journey, his shaping philosophy, and the stories behind some of the most iconic boards he's ever created. Born and raised in Southern California, Rob grew up surrounded by the energy of the surf boom. His fascination with board design began early, first sanding, then repairing, eventually shaping his first boards out of curiosity and necessity. Over the years, he developed a reputation for clean lines, refined rails, and a sensitivity to feedback that earned the respect of both everyday surfers and elite riders. Rob never chased the spotlight; instead, he let the boards speak. And they spoke loudly. In this episode, Rob shares the roots of his craft, reflecting on what surf culture looked like in the 1970s and 1980s, how he learned under shaping legends, and how experimentation became part of his DNA. He explains how the shift from single fins to twins, to thrusters, and later to high-performance shortboards shaped his approach to design. His insights into foam density, rail volume, rocker lines, and fin placement reveal the deep technical knowledge behind the clean, understated boards that surfers treasure. We also explore Rob's life beyond the planer: his time shaping internationally, the feedback loops with surfers that pushed him to refine his designs, and his belief that a great surfboard is a collaboration between shaper, surfer, and wave. Rob discusses the importance of trust in that relationship, how listening to a surfer's language, even when imprecise, can guide him toward subtle adjustments that dramatically transform performance. One of the most inspiring parts of the episode is Rob's perspective on the future of surfboard building. He shares his thoughts on sustainability, new materials, the role of hand-shaping in an era of CNC machines, and why craftsmanship still matters more than ever. For Rob, technology is a tool, but soul is something you cannot automate. His passion for blending tradition with evolution offers a refreshing vision of where surfboard design is headed. We close by diving into personal stories, Rob's most memorable sessions, the boards that surprised him, the collaborations that shaped his career, and the lessons he learned from decades spent in shaping bays around the world. Whether you're a surfer, a shaper, or simply someone who loves the artistry of surfing, this conversation provides rare insight into a man who helped shape not only surfboards but surf culture itself. Tune in and discover the craftsmanship, humility, and innovation of Rob Vaughan, a true architect of the ride.

This week on The Temple of Surf Podcast, we are honored to welcome one of the most recognizable names in surf photography: Sean Davey. Known for his unmistakable style, masterful use of light, and deep connection with the ocean, Sean has spent decades documenting the beauty, culture, and spirit of surfing. His images, often vibrant, dreamlike, and full of emotion—have become iconic in surf magazines and galleries across the world. Born in Tasmania and later establishing himself in Hawaii, Sean Davey developed an eye for the kind of ocean moments that most people never see. From glassy underwater worlds to dramatic shorebreak explosions, Sean captures the ocean with a rare sensitivity. In this episode, we dive into his journey, his philosophy, and the creative process behind some of his most legendary photographs. Sean shares stories from his early days shooting film, learning to understand the sea as both a subject and a collaborator, and finding his place among the world's finest surf photographers in Hawaii—home to some of the most challenging and beautiful waves on earth. We talk about the evolution of surf imagery, from the analog era to today's digital world, and how he continues to innovate while staying true to his artistic roots. One of the highlights of this conversation is Sean's perspective on patience and presence, two qualities essential for capturing extraordinary ocean moments. He explains how the best photographs often come from hours of observation, deep respect for nature, and a willingness to let the ocean reveal its magic. Whether it's a glowing sunrise barrel, a perfectly timed wave explosion, or an underwater dance of light and color, Sean's images remind us that the sea is always changing, always alive. We discuss the technical side too: gear, lenses, housings, the importance of understanding surf conditions, and what it takes to shoot in heavy water. Sean also opens up about the transition from editorial work to fine-art photography, building a global collector base, and why he believes ocean imagery has such a healing and transformative power. This episode is a tribute to passion, creativity, and the timeless beauty of the sea. Whether you are a photographer, surfer, ocean lover, or simply someone who appreciates stunning visuals, Sean Davey's story will inspire you to see the world around you with more curiosity and gratitude. Tune in and experience the ocean through the eyes of a master.

13TH SEASON FINALE!!! In this exclusive episode of The Temple of Surf Podcast, we dive deep into the mind of W. Peter Iliff, the legendary screenwriter who brought one of the most iconic surf films of all time to life : Point Break. Written in the early 1990s and directed by Kathryn Bigelow, Point Break became a cultural phenomenon, blending the adrenaline of big-wave surfing with the raw energy of undercover crime and spiritual brotherhood. Peter shares the incredible story of how Point Break came to be  from his early writing days in Los Angeles to the moment the film caught the attention of Hollywood. We talk about the creative process behind the screenplay, his collaboration with Bigelow, and how characters like Johnny Utah (Keanu Reeves) and Bodhi (Patrick Swayze) became timeless symbols of freedom, rebellion, and the search for meaning through surfing. Iliff opens up about the challenges of writing a movie that went beyond surf clichés and instead captured the soul of the ocean, the philosophy of living on the edge, and the spiritual bond among surfers and outlaws alike. We also discuss how Point Break continues to inspire generations of surfers, filmmakers, and dreamers more than 30 years later. From behind-the-scenes stories to the deeper message of "If you want the ultimate, you've got to be willing to pay the ultimate price," this episode explores why Point Break remains one of the greatest surf movies ever made, not just for its action, but for its heart. Peter also shares updates about his current projects, his reflections on Hollywood storytelling today, and his personal connection to the surf community that embraced Point Break as a spiritual anthem. Whether you're a surfer, a movie lover, or someone chasing your own wave in life, this conversation will remind you why the ocean and cinema are both places where truth and freedom collide. Tune in to The Temple of Surf Podcast and join me for a powerful, nostalgic, and inspiring journey through surf culture, art, and storytelling with one of the most influential screenwriters of our time. 🎧 Available on Spotify, YouTube, and all major podcast platforms. #TheTempleOfSurfPodcast, #PointBreak, #WPeterIliff, #PointBreakMovie, #SurfingCulture, #SurfLegends, #PatrickSwayze, #KeanuReeves, #JohnnyUtah, #Bodhi, #KathrynBigelow, #SurfMovies, #SurfFilm, #SurfPodcast, #SurfLife, #SurfVibes, #SurfersSpirit, #OceanSoul, #SurfCommunity, #SurfingLegends, #SurfingHistory, #HollywoodStories, #Screenwriting, #FilmWriting, #AdrenalineJunkie, #ExtremeSports, #BeachLife, #SurfPhilosophy, #PointBreakFans, #TheTempleOfSurf

Johnny Cabianca – The Shaper Behind the Champions In this new episode of The Temple of Surf Podcast, we sit down with one of the world's most respected surfboard shapers, Johnny Cabianca, the Brazilian craftsman whose boards have powered some of the greatest surfers on the planet, including Gabriel Medina, multiple-time World Champion. From his early days in Brazil to his current shaping bay in the Basque Country, Johnny shares an extraordinary story of talent, dedication, and a lifelong obsession with performance surfing. In this exclusive interview, Johnny Cabianca opens up about his beginnings in São Paulo, how he first discovered the magic of shaping, and what drove him to move across the world to Euskadi, where he now builds his world-renowned Cabianca Surfboards. He talks about the creative process behind designing a high-performance surfboard, the delicate balance between innovation and intuition, and what it takes to translate a surfer's personality and energy into foam, resin, and speed. We explore the golden years of his collaboration with Gabriel Medina, from their first boards together to the unforgettable 2014 World Title victory. Johnny reflects on the evolution of surfboard design for competitive surfing, the impact of wave pools, and how new materials and technologies are shaping the future of performance surfing. He also discusses how he maintains authenticity and craftsmanship in a world increasingly dominated by mass-production and marketing hype. But beyond technique and competition, this episode also dives deep into Johnny's philosophy of surfing and life, his belief that shaping is an art form, his connection with the ocean, and his gratitude for being part of a global community that shares the same passion. From shaping bays in Brazil to the powerful waves of the Basque Coast, Johnny's story is one of perseverance, creativity, and the timeless pursuit of excellence. If you love surf culture, design, and craftsmanship, this episode is a must-listen. You'll hear about the tools, the rituals, and the inspirations that make each Cabianca board unique a fusion of Brazilian soul and Basque precision. Johnny also offers advice for young shapers starting out today, and shares his vision of what the next generation of surfboards and surfers might look like. Join Alessandro as he uncovers the human side of one of surfing's most iconic board builders. A celebration of artistry, friendship, and the never-ending quest to create the perfect board. 🎧 Listen now on YouTube, Spotify, and all major podcast platforms. 🌊 The Temple of Surf The Podcast, conversations that keep the stoke alive.

This week on The Temple of Surf Podcast, we welcome one of the most distinctive voices in modern surfboard design, Jeff McCallum. Known for his meticulous craftsmanship, innovative shapes, and instantly recognizable aesthetic, McCallum has become a cult figure among surfboard collectors and riders alike. From his San Diego workshop, he creates what many call rideable art boards that merge performance, creativity, and visual beauty in perfect harmony. In this episode, we dive deep into Jeff's journey, from his early days learning the craft to developing his own unique design language that blends mid-century influences, Japanese precision, and a Californian sense of flow. McCallum opens up about what it truly means to shape by hand in a digital age, why he values imperfection, and how each board carries the soul of its maker. Listeners will discover how Jeff's boards have become icons in surf culture from sleek fishes and asymmetrical designs to resin-tinted masterpieces that look as good on a wave as they do on a gallery wall. We talk about the process behind the glassing techniques that give his boards their luminous depth, what inspires him and the mindset required to keep evolving while staying true to craftsmanship. Whether you're a surfer, a collector, or simply someone fascinated by creativity, this conversation reveals the deeper philosophy behind the shaping bay, where foam and resin meet imagination. McCallum reminds us that surfing isn't just about chasing waves, it's about connection: to the ocean, to design, and to the timeless pursuit of making something meaningful with your hands. From custom collaborations to limited-edition art pieces, Jeff's boards reflect a rare blend of authenticity and innovation. His approach challenges today's fast-paced, mass-produced surf industry, inviting us to slow down and appreciate the story behind every line, curve, and color. Tune in to The Temple of Surf Podcast and immerse yourself in the creative world of Jeff McCallum a conversation about art, surfing, and the eternal craftsmanship that keeps surf culture alive.  

🦈 Protecting Sharks, Protecting the Ocean – A Conversation with David McGuire (Shark Stewards) This week on The Temple of Surf Podcast, we swim into the world of ocean conservation with one of the most passionate defenders of marine life David McGuire, marine biologist, filmmaker, and founder of Shark Stewards. Known to many as "Shark Stewards Dave", McGuire has dedicated his life to protecting sharks and restoring healthy ocean ecosystems. From the wild waters of California to the coral reefs of the Indo-Pacific, his mission is clear: to save sharks and safeguard the balance of the sea. Sharks have been swimming our oceans for over 400 million years, yet today they face one of the most severe threats in their long evolutionary history, overfishing, habitat loss, and the cruel practice of shark finning. Through his non-profit organization Shark Stewards, David has been on the frontlines of this battle, successfully helping to pass legislation banning the shark fin trade in several U.S. states, and working internationally to promote sustainable fisheries and marine protected areas. In this inspiring conversation, we explore how David's journey from ocean explorer and filmmaker led him to become a leading voice in marine advocacy. We talk about his early encounters with sharks, his documentaries for National Geographic and other media, and the moment he realized he could no longer stand by while these incredible animals were disappearing from our oceans. His passion is contagious, and his stories remind us that every one of us surfer, diver, or ocean lover has a role to play in protecting the blue heart of our planet. We also discuss how sharks are misunderstood creatures, often feared rather than respected. David breaks down the myths surrounding shark attacks and shares how media sensationalism has distorted our view of these apex predators. In reality, sharks are essential to the health of marine ecosystems. Without them, the delicate balance of the ocean collapses. Through education, science, and storytelling, Shark Stewards works to replace fear with understanding and action. From the great whites cruising California's coast to the reef sharks of the South Pacific, David's insights illuminate the complex relationship between humans and the sea. This episode isn't just about conservation, it's about connection. It's a reminder that protecting sharks means protecting the very waves we ride and the oceans that define our culture as surfers. Tune in to this episode of The Temple of Surf and be inspired by David McGuire's vision of a future where sharks still roam free, coral reefs thrive, and the ocean remains wild and alive for generations to come.

The Temple of Surf Podcast is back with another inspiring episode, and this week we're diving into the world of surf art with one of the most intriguing names on the scene today: Rick Blake. Known for his bold strokes, vibrant palettes, and ability to capture the raw energy of waves and surf culture on canvas, Rick has established himself as a unique voice bridging the ocean and artistic expression. Surf art has always been more than decoration, it's a way to preserve the soul of surfing, to translate fleeting moments into lasting visual stories. Rick Blake's work does exactly that. His paintings don't just depict surfers riding waves; they reflect the lifestyle, the freedom, and the connection between humans and the sea. Whether it's a stormy break crashing on a rugged coastline or the calm glow of a sunset surf session, Rick's canvases radiate the emotion of the ocean. In this episode, we talk about his creative journey, how Rick discovered painting as a way to honor his love for surfing, the influences that shaped his style, and the challenges of making a career as a surf artist. From early sketches to large-scale works exhibited in galleries, Rick's path is a story of passion, persistence, and dedication to his craft. He shares stories about painting on location, how he studies wave movement, and the techniques he uses to capture the flow and rhythm of water on a flat surface. We also focus into the larger world of surf art and why it matters. Surfing isn't just a sport, it's a culture with its own language, history, and aesthetic. Rick Blake explains how art preserves the heritage of surfing, inspiring younger generations and reminding us of the pioneers who first paddled out decades ago. He discusses the responsibility artists carry in representing surf culture authentically while also pushing the boundaries of creativity. As you listen, you'll hear Rick's perspective on the future of surf art in a digital age. How does social media change the way artists share their work? What role do collaborations with brands, surf museums, and fellow creatives play in spreading the movement? And how can surf art inspire environmental awareness, encouraging people to protect the waves and beaches we all cherish? If you're passionate about surfing, creativity, or simply love stories of people following their calling, this conversation will inspire you. Rick Blake's art reminds us that surfing is not only about chasing the perfect wave,it's also about celebrating the beauty and spirit of the ocean in all forms. Tune in to The Temple of Surf Podcast and discover the world of Rick Blake, a surf artist whose canvases breathe salt air and sunlight.  

Welcome to a new episode of The Temple of Surf Podcast! This week we sit down with Damien Marly, surfboard shaper, surfer, and founder of Chipirons Surfboards, a brand born in the heart of Les Landes, France. For Damien, surfing has always been more than a sport, it's a lifestyle, a connection to nature, and a way of expressing creativity through craft. What started as a personal journey of shaping boards turned into Chipirons Surfboards, a label that has become known in Europe and beyond for its originality, community spirit, and beautifully crafted boards. In this episode, Damien takes us inside his shaping bay and philosophy. We talk about: The early days of his surfing life and how Chipirons was created. How the powerful beach breaks of Les Landes inspire his designs. His approach to surfboard design and innovation, from retro fish to performance shortboards. The importance of sustainability and local craftsmanship in surf culture today. The unique Chipirons identity: a mix of fun, family, and passion that attracts surfers from all over Europe. Damien also shares his thoughts on what it means to keep surfing authentic in an age of mass production, and how shaping boards by hand connects the surfer to the ocean in a deeper way. Whether you are a surfer, a surfboard collector, or simply someone fascinated by the stories behind iconic surf brands, this conversation will give you insight into the soul of surfing in France. Listen now and join us in celebrating the world of surfboards, craftsmanship, and surf culture with Damien Marly of Chipirons Surfboards.

Pipeline, Legends & Surf History with Rory Russell This week on The Temple of Surf Podcast we are honored to welcome one of the most iconic figures in surfing's golden age:  Rory Russell. Known to the world as the "Pipeline Prince," Rory rose to fame in the 1970s with a fearless style, unmatched charisma, and a deep connection to one of the most dangerous and celebrated waves on the planet. His story is not only about individual triumphs, but also about an era of surfing that shaped the culture as we know it today. Born and raised on the North Shore of Oahu, Rory grew up in the epicenter of the surf revolution. While the 1960s gave us the longboard boom and the first professional contests, it was in the 1970s that surfing truly matured into a global sport and lifestyle. Rory Russell, with his flowing hair, infectious smile, and electrifying presence in the water, became both a competitor and a cultural figure. His back-to-back Pipeline Masters victories in 1976 and 1977 etched his name permanently into the history of surfing, cementing his reputation as one of the greats of that era. In this episode, we dive deep into those years of transformation, when professional surfing tours were just starting to take shape, and when Pipeline itself was being redefined by riders like Gerry Lopez and Rory Russell. Together, they set the standard for what it meant to charge one of the heaviest waves in the world. Rory's approach was fearless yet stylish, proving that big-wave performance could be both radical and graceful. But Rory's story goes beyond trophies and titles. He represents a spirit of aloha that transcends competition. Even today, decades after his competitive peak, Rory is celebrated for his humor, his generosity, and his willingness to keep the stories of surf history alive. Few people can talk about the golden age with such authenticity, not only because he lived it, but because he was one of the shining stars of that time. Listeners will hear Rory reflect on what it was like to be part of the North Shore scene when it was still raw, untamed, and legendary. He shares stories of traveling the world with little more than a board under his arm, chasing waves, and discovering cultures far from Hawaii. We discuss the early days of surfboard design experimentation, the friendships and rivalries that shaped competitions, and the unique atmosphere of Pipeline in the 1970s a proving ground where reputations were built in a single drop. We also explore what surf history means to Rory now. He is not just looking back with nostalgia, but also forward with passion. He remains involved in passing down knowledge to the next generation, making sure the lessons, values, and stories of his era are not forgotten. His reflections remind us that surfing is not just about riding waves but about the community, creativity, and courage that come with it. This episode is more than just an interview, it's a journey into a time when surfing was wild, free, and evolving into the global phenomenon we know today. Rory Russell is a bridge between the mythic past and the vibrant present, a storyteller whose laughter carries the rhythm of the waves he once dominated. Join us as we sit down with Rory Russell to talk surf history, Pipeline, and the spirit of aloha. Whether you are a lifelong surfer, a student of surf culture, or simply someone who loves great stories, this episode will take you straight to the heart of surfing's golden era.

This week on The Temple of Surf Podcast, we welcome a truly unique voice in surf culture: Japanese surf photographer Tatsuo Takei, whose eye for authenticity has inspired and preserved the soul of surfing for decades. Known for his celebrated book Authentic Wave, Tatsuo has carved his own path as an artist, blending timeless craftsmanship with a deep love for the ocean and the communities that revolve around it. Tatsuo's story is one of passion, patience, and devotion. Born in Osaka, Japan, he grew up far from the breaks of California and Hawaii, yet the pull of the surf lifestyle was impossible to resist. His early fascination with American surf magazines and films eventually led him on a journey across the Pacific, where he immersed himself in the surf scenes of California. Unlike many contemporary photographers, Tatsuo has remained committed to shooting on film, particularly 16mm, embracing a medium that demands discipline and rewards authenticity. In a world dominated by digital speed and convenience, his analog approach offers something rare: photographs that capture the quiet poetry of surfing. His book Authentic Wave is not just a collection of images, it is a cultural statement. Page after page, Tatsuo documents a surfing experience that values style, community, and purity over competition and commercialization. He focuses on longboarding, classic style, and the personalities who embody surfing's roots, reminding us that this culture is about much more than chasing the next contest trophy. His work resonates with surfers around the world who long for a connection to the essence of wave-riding, unfiltered and unpolished. In our conversation, Tatsuo shares what drove him to dedicate his life to film photography in an era when most abandoned it. He explains the technical and artistic challenges of working with film in the ever-changing conditions of the ocean. From loading cameras in the sand to timing shots perfectly with light and swell, his craft is both art and ritual. The results, however, are stunning images that feel alive, textured, and eternal. We also explore how cultural perspective shapes his art. Coming from Japan but embedding himself in the Californian surf world, Tatsuo bridges two traditions, offering a unique lens on what it means to be a surfer. He speaks about the Japanese reverence for nature, harmony, and tradition, and how these values influence the way he documents surfers gliding along timeless waves. For anyone who has felt the magic of a perfectly ridden wave or admired the effortless style of classic longboarding, Tatsuo's work is a reminder of surfing's eternal truths. His photographs are not just about action; they are about atmosphere, spirit, and the fleeting moments that make surfing a way of life rather than just a sport. Tune in to this episode to hear Tatsuo Takei reflect on his journey, his book Authentic Wave, and his vision for the future of surf culture. It's a conversation that honors surfing's past while reminding us of the importance of staying true to its essence.

This week on The Temple of Surf Podcast, we welcome a truly innovative guest: Taylor Lane, the creative mind and environmental advocate best known for building the now legendary Cigarette Surfboard, a surfboard made entirely from discarded cigarette butts collected from beaches and streets. What started as a student project has since become a global statement, sparking awareness about the devastating impact of cigarette waste on our oceans. Cigarette butts are the most littered item on the planet. Trillions of them are discarded every year, and the majority end up leaching toxic chemicals and microplastics into waterways, beaches, and marine ecosystems. For surfers and ocean lovers, this is a heartbreaking reality , the very places that give us joy and connection are being polluted every single day. Taylor Lane decided not to look away. Instead, he transformed this ugly reality into something powerful, a surfboard that forces us to confront the issue head-on. In this conversation, Taylor shares the story of how the Cigarette Surfboard came to life, the challenges he faced in bringing it from concept to reality, and the reactions it has generated across the surf and environmental communities. But this is not only a story about one surfboard. It is about creativity, activism, and the role that art and surfing can play in driving cultural change. Taylor reminds us that sometimes the most impactful messages are delivered through unexpected mediums, in this case, a surfboard that nobody would ever think to ride and that everybody wants to talk about. We also explore the bigger picture: how can we, as individuals and as a community, protect our oceans? From simple daily choices like properly disposing of waste, reducing single-use plastics, and participating in beach cleanups, to supporting larger initiatives and policies aimed at ocean protection, every action counts. Taylor emphasizes that the fight for clean oceans is not limited to activists or organizations, it is something every surfer, every beachgoer, and every citizen can take part in. For surfers, the ocean is more than a playground; it is a sacred space, a source of healing, and a cultural heartbeat. Protecting it is not an option, it is a responsibility. Taylor's project reminds us that sometimes the most effective way to raise awareness is by combining passion, creativity, and a strong message. The Cigarette Surfboard is not just a board, it is a wake-up call and it has already traveled around the world to ignite conversations and inspire action. Whether you are a surfer, an environmentalist, or simply someone who cares about the future of our planet, this episode will leave you thinking differently about the objects we throw away and the power of turning problems into solutions. Join us as we dive into the inspiring journey of Taylor Lane, the Cigarette Surfboard, and the ongoing mission to protect the ocean and its beaches for generations to come.

This week on The Temple of Surf Podcast, we welcome a guest whose life and mission revolve around one of the ocean's most fascinating yet misunderstood creatures: the shark. Our guest is Madison Stewart, known worldwide as Shark Girl, a fearless advocate, filmmaker, and diver who has spent most of her life swimming with sharks and fighting for their survival. But in this conversation, we explore something very close to the heart of our listeners: the unique, complex, and often misunderstood relationship between sharks and surfers. For decades, sharks have been portrayed as villains in surf culture, symbols of fear lurking beneath the waves.  Yet as Madison explains, surfers and sharks share far more in common than we might imagine. Both are intimately connected to the rhythm of the ocean. Both rely on healthy marine ecosystems. And both are vulnerable, surfers to the changing climate and coastlines, sharks to overfishing and human misunderstanding. Madison's own journey began in her childhood on Australia's Gold Coast. By the time most kids were learning to swim, she was diving alongside sharks. What struck her wasn't terror, but awe: a recognition of their intelligence, beauty, and essential role in the ocean's balance. When she saw firsthand the destruction of shark populations due to industrial fishing and the global fin trade, she dedicated herself to telling their story. Her documentaries, campaigns, and fearless underwater encounters have made her a powerful voice for conservation. In our discussion, Madison brings that perspective directly to the surfing world. She challenges us, as surfers, to move beyond fear and embrace understanding. Sharks are not "the enemy", they are guardians of the sea, keeping ecosystems balanced in ways that directly affect the waves we ride and the beaches we love. Without sharks, reefs collapse, fish populations decline, and the entire ocean suffers. And when the ocean suffers, surfers do too. We dive into myths versus reality: how often do shark encounters with surfers actually occur? What drives those rare events? And most importantly, how can surfers become allies in protecting sharks rather than fearing them? Madison's insights are both eye-opening and deeply inspiring, reminding us that coexistence is not only possible but essential. Beyond the science and advocacy, this episode is also about respect, the respect surfers owe to the creatures who have called the ocean home for millions of years. By shifting our perspective, we not only protect sharks, we protect the future of surfing itself.  Madison Stewart is living proof that one person's passion can ripple outward to change perceptions, influence policy, and inspire others to act. Her voice bridges the gap between two worlds often seen in conflict: the world of the surfer and the world of the shark. So join us for this powerful conversation as we explore the shared destiny of sharks and surfers and discover why protecting them is, in the end, protecting ourselves.

🌊 From Point Break to Beyond: The Surf & Screen Story of Bojesse Christopher 🌊 In this week's episode of The Temple of Surf Podcast, we sit down with Bojesse Christopher, actor, surfer, and iconic member of the legendary Point Break cast. Known worldwide for his role in Kathryn Bigelow's 1991 cult classic Point Break, Bojesse shares the untold stories of filming alongside Keanu Reeves, Patrick Swayze, Gary Busey, and Lori Petty, and how the film became a cultural touchstone for surfers and movie fans alike. But Bojesse's story doesn't stop at Hollywood. A lifelong surfer deeply rooted in surf culture, he opens up about growing up with the ocean, balancing acting with chasing waves, and what Point Break got right about the surfing lifestyle. This episode takes you from behind the scenes of one of the most famous surf movies ever made to the very real passion for surfing that has shaped Bojesse's life. 🎬 Inside This Episode: Behind-the-scenes memories of filming Point Break (1991) Stories of working with Keanu Reeves and Patrick Swayze How Point Break captured the essence of surf culture and the 90s surf scene Bojesse's lifelong relationship with surfing and the ocean Reflections on acting, spirituality, and the connection between surf and soul For fans of Point Break, this conversation is pure gold. For surfers, it's a reminder of why that movie became more than just cinema, it became part of our identity. Bojesse dives into what it felt like to embody the spirit of surfing on screen while also being a real surfer in real life, something that continues to fuel his journey today. 🌴 Whether you discovered surfing through Point Break or you've been paddling out your whole life, this episode brings together surf history, surf lifestyle, and Hollywood storytelling in a way that only Bojesse Christopher can deliver. 👉 Don't forget to like, comment, and subscribe to The Temple of Surf Podcast for more exclusive interviews with surf legends, shapers, and icons of surf culture. #PointBreak #Surfing #Podcast #BojesseChristopher #SurfCulture #KeanuReeves #PatrickSwayze #TempleOfSurfpodcast #surf #surfing #surfhistory #surfboards

Welcome back to another episode of The Temple of Surf Podcast, where we celebrate the legends, innovators, and unsung heroes of surfing , the people shaping the past, present, and future of our beloved culture. Today's episode takes us to the heart of surfboard craftsmanship and performance design, as we sit down with two incredibly talented Australians: Josh and Anna Constable, the dynamic duo behind Creative Army Surfboards.  For many in the surf world, the name Josh Constable is synonymous with excellence. A multiple Australian champion, longboard maestro, and the 2006 ASP World Longboard Champion, Josh has spent decades refining his style and pushing the limits of performance on the water. But his story doesn't stop at competition results, it evolves into shaping boards that carry his signature understanding of speed, glide, and flow. In 2013, he channeled that deep well of knowledge into Creative Army, a surfboard brand that blends classic design principles with modern performance, delivering boards that are as beautiful to look at as they are to ride. By his side, both in life and in the lineup, is Anna Constable a champion in her own right. Anna's passion for surfing began early, and she carved her own path in the sport with a focus on style, grace, and athleticism. Known for her competitive spirit and fluid wave riding, she also holds an impressive title: **world champion in acrobatic surfing. Together, Josh and Anna have built not only a brand, but a shared vision, one that celebrates craftsmanship, quality, and the joy of riding waves. Creative Army boards have earned a loyal following around the globe for their balance of performance and aesthetic beauty. Whether it's a refined longboard for trimming effortlessly down the line, a mid-length for versatility, or a shortboard tuned for speed and responsiveness, each design carries the DNA of decades spent studying waves and equipment.  For Josh, the shaping bay is a creative playground, where ideas are tested, refined, and brought to life, always with the goal of giving surfers the perfect craft for their style and conditions. In this conversation, we'll explore their journey, from the competitive stage to the shaping room, from personal victories to the challenges of building a surf brand in today's global market. We'll talk about what inspires their designs, the subtle details that can make or break a board's performance, and how they see the future of surfboard shaping evolving.  We'll also touch on the balance between heritage and innovation, and why surfing, at its core, is about more than results or product, it's about connection, passion, and community. So, whether you're a board aficionado, a weekend wave rider, or someone who simply loves a great story about dedication and creativity, you're going to enjoy this one.  Here's my conversation with Josh and Anna Constable of Creative Army Surfboards.        #CreativeArmySurfboards #JoshConstable #AnnaConstable #SurfboardShaping #Surfboards #Longboarding #LongboardSurfing #SurfPodcast #TheTempleOfSurf #SurfCulture #SurfLife #SurfboardDesign #AustralianSurfing #SurfingAustralia #SurfCraftsmanship #SurfShaper #SurfboardMaker #SurfInterview #SurfingLegends #SurfboardArt

Welcome to a new episode of The Temple of Surf Podcast, where we dive deep into the lives, stories, and legacies of the individuals who shaped surf culture. This week, we're honored to be joined by author Douglas Cavanaugh, who takes us on an unforgettable journey into the life of one of surfing's most fearless, enigmatic, and often misunderstood figures, Butch Van Artsdalen. In an age before Instagram and sponsorship deals, before the spotlight found Pipeline, there were a few raw, rebellious souls who pushed surfing into uncharted territory. Among them stood Butch, sun-bleached, wild-eyed, and ahead of his time. Known as the original "Mr. Pipeline," Butch Van Artsdalen was a pioneer, a renegade, and a symbol of surfing's raw, unfiltered edge. With flowing blond hair, a fiery attitude, and an unmatched willingness to charge waves others wouldn't touch, Butch defined what it meant to be a "hellman" long before the term became mainstream. Douglas Cavanaugh, author of the evocative book Remembering Butch Van Artsdalen, helps us peel back the myth and get to know the man behind the legend. In this episode, we talk about Butch's early days in La Jolla, his time on the North Shore, and the impact he had on generations of surfers who followed him. Douglas brings rich, personal insights and a deep respect for Butch's contribution to surf history, both as a rider of impossible waves and as a misunderstood cultural icon. Butch wasn't just a big wave charger, he was a transition figure, bridging the clean-cut innocence of 1950s California surfing with the more radical, countercultural explosion of the 1960s and '70s. He was there when Pipeline was still considered unsurfable. He was part of the Duke Invitational when it was the Super Bowl of surfing. He hung with surf legends, appeared in surf films, and represented the kind of raw individuality that surfing once celebrated before it became polished and packaged. And yet, for all his achievements, Butch's story also carries a poignant edge, a reflection of how surfing culture sometimes fails to honor its own. He struggled with the weight of fame, with the expectations of a community that at times didn't know how to hold space for someone like him. His later years were marked by personal challenges, and his untimely death at just 38 left a void in the surf world that many still feel today. Douglas Cavanaugh's work is more than just biography, it's a tribute, a historical record, and a deeply human portrait of a man who gave his all to the waves and left behind a legacy that deserves more recognition. In our conversation, we explore not only the radical drops and critical turns that defined Butch's surf style, but also the emotional landscape he navigated—his highs, his lows, his friendships, and the cultural shift that surrounded him. This episode is for anyone who loves surf history, who wants to understand the roots of modern surf bravery, and who believes in honoring those who paved the way, especially the ones who weren't always understood in their time. So whether you're listening from your car, your board shaping bay, or watching the sets roll in from a beach somewhere in the world, settle in. This is a story about soul, risk, rebellion, and remembering. This is the story of Butch Van Artsdalen, told with heart and depth by someone who truly gets it. Let's paddle out into history with Douglas Cavanaugh, right here on The Temple of Surf Podcast.

In this week's episode of The Temple of Surf Podcast, we welcome a special guest whose name carries deep resonance in the world of surfboard shaping: Joshua Martin. Son of legendary shaper Terry Martin, Joshua has not only inherited a profound legacy, he's forged his own path with authenticity, humility, and a deep respect for the craft. Our conversation begins by tracing his early years growing up in Capistrano Beach, California, where the shaping bay was his playground and the scent of resin and foam filled the air. Joshua reflects on his father's influence, not just in terms of technical knowledge, but in the values Terry instilled, integrity, patience, and a relentless dedication to quality. He shares beautiful memories of watching his dad shape thousands of boards for Hobie Surfboards, and how shaping wasn't just a job in the Martin household, it was a way of life. But this episode is far from a nostalgic glance backward. Joshua brings us into the present, offering insight into his own shaping philosophy. He speaks passionately about handcrafting each board with intention, ensuring that every rail, rocker, and line serves both performance and personal expression. For Joshua, a surfboard isn't just equipment, it's a functional piece of art, a tool for joy, and sometimes even a spiritual object. His deep respect for the natural elements — from sustainably sourced wood to the rhythm of the waves,guides his approach to design. We also explore the evolving role of craftsmanship in the era of machine-made boards and mass production. Joshua doesn't shy away from technology, but he stands firm in the belief that hand shaping offers something irreplaceable, a human connection. Whether he's creating a custom single fin or a modern fish, each of his boards is infused with the soul of the craftsman. It's a process he describes as "listening to the blank," allowing the shape to emerge through collaboration with the material and the surfer. Throughout the episode, Joshua also touches on his collaborations with other artists, his love for woodwork, and the deep cultural history that shapes his work, from Hawaiian traditions to California counterculture. He opens up about the challenges of carrying a family name with such weight, and how he's learned to honor it without being confined by it. For anyone passionate about surf culture, this episode is a reminder of the values that ground the sport,,authenticity, community, respect for nature, and the enduring power of craft. Joshua Martin is not just continuing a legacy; he's shaping a meaningful future for surfing, one board at a time. Tune in to this soulful and insightful episode — available now on all major podcast platforms.

This week on The Temple of Surf Podcast, we sit down with master surfboard shaper Dan Mann, a creative force in modern board design and a driving influence behind some of the most innovative shapes in surfing today. In this episode, Dan takes us on a journey through his shaping career, from humble beginnings in backyard workshops to building performance-driven boards that have reshaped the way surfers approach the waves. With decades of hands-on experience and a deep passion for the craft, Dan shares how curiosity, experimentation, and a willingness to break the mold have defined his shaping philosophy. We talk about the evolution of surfboard design, the balance between tradition and innovation, and how new materials and construction methods are opening up fresh possibilities for surfers of all levels. Dan explains how every detail,  from rails and rocker to volume distribution, plays a role in how a board performs, and why tuning into a surfer's personal style is key when shaping a truly custom ride. Sustainability is also a major theme in this episode. Dan discusses how the surf industry is embracing more environmentally responsible approaches to board building.  Listeners will gain insights on: The fundamentals of high-performance surfboard design Trends shaping the future of surfboard technology Why sustainability matters in shaping and manufacturing The creative process behind some of the most versatile models in the water Whether you're a passionate surfer, an up-and-coming shaper, or simply a fan of surf culture, this episode offers a rare behind-the-scenes look into the mind of a true craftsman. Dan Mann's blend of precision, artistry, and vision makes this conversation a must-listen for anyone curious about the craft behind the ride. 🎧 Tune in now to discover Dan Mann's perspective on shaping, sustainability, and the soul of surfing — only on The Temple of Surf Podcast.

This Week on The Temple of Surf Podcast: Surf Legends Dick Metz & Richard Yelland Share the Untold Story That Changed Surf Culture Forever This week's episode is truly something special. We're joined by two remarkable guests whose lives and work have shaped how the world sees surfing: surf legend Dick Metz and award-winning filmmaker Richard Yelland. Dick Metz isn't just a name in the history of surfing, he is surf history. From riding Waikiki waves in the 1940s to traveling the globe with nothing but a surfboard and a dream, Metz's life reads like an adventure novel. His firsthand stories span continents, cultures, and decades. He helped spark the early surf travel movement and inspired generations of wave-chasers long before the world knew what "surf culture" even meant. Alongside him is Richard Yelland, a filmmaker whose deep love for surfing and storytelling has led him to create some of the most powerful documentaries in the genre. Known for his work on films like Floating: The Nathan Geller Story and Between the Lines, Yelland has a rare gift: he captures the soul of surfing. His latest film—centered around Dick Metz's extraordinary life—traces the origins of a movement that changed everything. In this episode, we dive deep into how a single journey around the world, taken by Metz in the 1950s, helped ignite what would become a global surf phenomenon. That journey, filled with untold stories, unexpected discoveries, and cross-cultural connections, would later inspire the narrative of one of surfing's most iconic films. We talk about what it was like to surf in a time before crowds, before sponsors, before the industry. Metz shares personal anecdotes about hitchhiking across continents, living with local communities. Richard Yelland explains how he brought those forgotten moments back to life on screen and why this story needed to be told now more than ever. But this episode is more than a conversation, it's a tribute. A tribute to the pioneers who paved the way. To the wanderers who looked at a map and saw a wave, to the storytellers who kept those legends alive. Whether you're a lifelong surfer, a film lover, or someone drawn to the magic of human adventure, this episode offers a rare glimpse into the soul of surfing, raw, real, and profoundly inspiring. 🔔 Don't forget to subscribe, like, and share this episode with anyone who loves the ocean, history, and surf culture. 🎧 Available now on all major platforms: Spotify, Apple Podcasts, YouTube, and more.

🎙️ THE TEMPLE OF SURF PODCAST – THIS WEEK'S EPISODE FEATURING JOHN PHILBIN From Hollywood Classic Roles to Real Waves: The Untold Surf Story of Turtle and Nathanial This week, we're beyond stoked to welcome a true icon of surf cinema and authentic wave-rider to The Temple of Surf Podcast — John Philbin. You might know him as the unforgettable Turtle from North Shore or the intense and unpredictable Nathanial from Point Break, but behind the silver screen, John Philbin is not just an actor, he's a committed surfer, a passionate teacher, and someone whose life has been deeply shaped by the rhythm of the ocean. In this in-depth episode, John opens up about the real story behind two of the most beloved surf films of all time, sharing what it was like to bring these characters to life, and how the process of learning to surf for film eventually led him to become a real surfer and part of the surf community for life. 🎬 We talk about: How he was cast in North Shore and Point Break What it was like training in the water for the role of Turtle The cultural legacy of North Shore and why it still resonates with surfers today Behind-the-scenes stories with Keanu Reeves, Patrick Swayze, and the original Ex-Presidents How those films shaped global surf perception Why surfing became more than a role, it became a lifestyle His journey into surf coaching, ocean therapy, and staying grounded through surfing Reflections on fame, identity, and reconnecting with the sea Whether you grew up quoting Turtle's iconic lines or were inspired to pick up a board after watching Bodhi ride one last wave at Bells, this episode will take you deeper into the heart and soul of surf storytelling, both real and fictional. John's journey is one of transformation, from actor learning to surf for a role, to surfer choosing the ocean as a path for healing, creativity, and personal evolution. His voice brings both humor and humility, and his stories are rich with that unique intersection of Hollywood energy and authentic surf spirit. 🌊 As always, The Temple of Surf Podcast brings you close to the people who shaped surf culture and those it shaped in return. 🎧 Listen now on Spotify, Apple Podcasts, and all major platforms. If you love surf movies, surf stories, or just a great conversation about what it means to ride waves — this one's for you. Follow us for more episodes featuring legendary surfers, artists, shapers, and watermen from around the world.

The Temple of Surf Podcast – This Week's Guest: Alessandro Piu – Italian Surfing Champion, Waterman, and Global Ambassador of Mediterranean Surf Culture This week on The Temple of Surf Podcast, we are honored to welcome one of Italy's finest surfers and a true ambassador of European surfing Alessandro Piu. Hailing from the sunny shores of Sardinia, Alessandro has carved out a remarkable path in professional surfing, breaking boundaries and making history as one of Italy's most decorated and recognizable surf athletes. With a fearless approach to the ocean, a deep respect for the environment, and a hunger for powerful waves around the globe, Alessandro embodies the spirit of the modern waterman. From Mediterranean breaks to the hollow reefs of Indonesia, from the rugged coastlines of Ireland to the barrels of Tahiti, he has proven that you don't need to be born in Hawaii or Australia to be world-class. Alessandro's story is one of determination, adaptability, and passion. Growing up in a country where surfing was still a niche sport, he discovered the ocean at a young age and quickly fell in love with the rhythm of the waves. Sardinia's varied coastline, ranging from wind-swept beach breaks to slabby reefs, became his training ground. With limited resources and exposure compared to surfers in California or Australia, Alessandro pushed himself hard, rising through the ranks with raw talent and tireless dedication. He quickly caught the attention of the European surf scene, earning titles at both national and international levels. Over the years, he became Italian Champion, represented Italy in ISA World Surfing Games and WSL Qualifying Series events, and participated in prestigious contests. His powerful, expressive style, especially in heavier surf, set him apart. Whether drawing sharp lines on a six-foot point break or charging thick barrels, Alessandro has consistently proven himself as one of the most complete surfers to ever emerge from Italy. But Alessandro is more than just a competitor, he's also a true explorer and surf culture storyteller. He has traveled extensively, surfed some of the most remote and challenging waves in the world, and helped shed light on Italy's unique surf geography. In recent years, he's taken on a role as an environmental advocate, using his platform to speak out about ocean conservation, pollution, and the preservation of coastal ecosystems. His involvement in sustainable surfboard initiatives and support of grassroots surf communities reflect his deep commitment to the planet and to future generations of surfers. On social media and in person, Alessandro has become a role model for aspiring surfers across Europe. His down-to-earth character, humility, and passion for wave riding resonate with fans from every background. He regularly collaborates with major surf brands, independent filmmakers, and ocean-focused nonprofits to amplify the message of connection between sport and sustainability. In this exclusive conversation with The Temple of Surf, Alessandro opens up about his early days surfing in Sardinia, the challenges he faced building a pro career from Italy, and his favorite destinations across the world. We also dive into his mindset during competitions, how he stays motivated during off-seasons, and what it feels like to represent his country on an international stage. Plus, he shares insights on the evolution of the Mediterranean surf scene, the importance of culture in surfing, and the legacy he hopes to leave. Whether you're a surfer from the coast of Biarritz, in Hawaii, or someone paddling out for the first time in Italy, Alessandro Piu's story is an inspiration. His journey proves that passion, grit, and respect for the ocean can take you to incredible places, even when you come from a country without a long-standing surf tradition. Tune in to this week's episode of The Temple of Surf Podcast for a raw, insightful, and powerful chat with one of Europe's top surfing voices. Alessandro Piu reminds us all that the soul of surfing knows no borders and that wherever there are waves and a deep love for the ocean, greatness can be found.