The Temple of Surf Podcast

There are moments in surfing that redefine a career. And then there are moments that redefine what is possible. Michaela Fregonese has just claimed Ride of the Year and Biggest Wave at the SURFER Big Wave Challenge Awards, a monumental achievement that places her among the elite of big wave surfing worldwide. Two of the most prestigious honors in the sport. One surfer. One fearless commitment. In this powerful new episode of The Temple of Surf Podcast, we sit down with Michaela to unpack what it truly took to earn this title. Because awards are the surface of the story. Beneath them lies years of preparation, wipeouts, discipline, and the relentless pursuit of heavier conditions. As an Italo-Brazilian athlete, Michaela carries a rare blend of passion and precision. Brazil fuels her fire. Italy anchors her mindset. Together, they shape a competitor who remains composed when the ocean transforms into moving mountains. We talk about the wave itself, the size, the speed, the commitment. What does it feel like to paddle into a wall of water that most people would not even consider? What happens internally in the final seconds before takeoff? In big wave surfing, there is no room for doubt. There is only training, instinct, and trust. Winning Ride of the Year is about execution. Winning Biggest Wave is about courage. Winning both is about mastery. This episode dives deep into her preparation routines, breath work, physical conditioning, and the psychology required to operate in extreme environments. Michaela shares the unseen side of big wave surfing, the teamwork behind jet skis, the safety protocols, the mental recalibration after heavy wipeouts. Because glory in the ocean is built on structure and respect. We also speak about what this recognition means for women in big wave surfing. The ceiling continues to rise. The waves do not discriminate. Performance speaks. And Michaela's performance spoke loudly enough to echo through the global surf community. For the Temple of Surf audience, this is more than a celebration episode. It is a study in resilience. It is a reminder that fear can be transformed into focus. That preparation turns chaos into opportunity. That when the horizon darkens and the swell stands tall, the difference between watching and committing defines everything. Michaela Fregonese did not just ride a wave. She rode a moment that will stay in surf history. 🎙 The episode is now live on all platforms. Step inside the mindset behind Ride of the Year. Respect the ocean. Honor the commitment.

In this powerful new episode of The Temple of Surf Podcast, we sit down with Japanese surfer Masatoshi Ohno to explore his journey through competitive surfing, the evolution of Japanese surf culture, and the waves that shaped his life. Japan has quietly become one of the most exciting forces in modern surfing. From Olympic recognition to world-class wave pools and a new generation of elite competitors, Japanese surf culture is no longer emerging, it is established. In this deep and inspiring conversation, Masatoshi Ohno shares firsthand insight into what it meant to grow up competing in Japan, how discipline and respect define the Japanese surf mentality, and how the country's surf scene has evolved over the years. We talk about his competitive years, the sacrifices, the pressure, the structure of contests in Japan, and the mindset required to perform at a high level. Masatoshi opens up about the intensity of training, the difference between surfing for expression versus surfing to win, and how competition shaped his character both in and out of the water. Beyond contests, we explore the heart of Japanese surf culture. What makes it unique? How does tradition influence modern surfing in Japan? From local beach breaks to heavy reef waves, Masatoshi explains how geography and culture combine to create a distinct surfing identity rooted in respect, humility, and technical precision. We also dive into waves. The type of waves that build champions. The waves that demand patience. The waves that change you forever. From typhoon swells to crisp beach break barrels, Masatoshi describes the feeling of surfing in Japan and what separates it from other parts of the world. For anyone fascinated by global surf culture, this conversation offers rare and authentic insight. This episode is not just about competition. It is about growth. It is about representing your country. It is about balancing tradition with modern performance surfing. And it is about understanding how surfing connects different parts of the world through shared passion. If you are passionate about: Japanese surfing Competitive surf careers Global surf culture Wave knowledge and technique Olympic era surfing Surf mindset and discipline This episode is for you. The Temple of Surf Podcast continues its mission of documenting surf culture worldwide by bringing authentic voices to the forefront. Masatoshi Ohno's story adds a powerful chapter to that journey. 👉 Listen until the end and let us know in the comments: What do you admire most about Japanese surf culture? If you enjoy these deep dive conversations with legendary surfers, rising talents, and cultural icons, make sure to: 👍 Like 💬 Comment 🔔 Subscribe Every share supports independent surf storytelling. Welcome to The Temple of Surf, The Podcast #TempleOfSurf, #MasatoshiOhno, #JapaneseSurfing, #SurfPodcast, #SurfCulture, #CompetitiveSurfing, #SurfJapan, #OlympicSurfing, #GlobalSurf, #SurfInterview, #SurfLife, #WaveRiders, #SurfCommunity, #SurfStories, #SurfHistory

In this very special episode of The Temple of Surf Podcast, we sit down with one of the most influential surfboard shapers of all time Rusty Preisendorfer. This is a rare interview with a true icon. Rusty almost never does interviews, which makes this conversation not just important, but historic for surf culture. Founder of Rusty Surfboards, Rusty Preisendorfer helped define the modern era of high-performance surfing. From the explosive progression of the 1980s to the power surfing revolution of the 1990s and beyond, his boards have been ridden by world champions, innovators, and free-surf pioneers who pushed the boundaries of what was possible on a wave. In this deep and honest conversation, we explore: The evolution of surfboard design from classic single fins to modern high-performance shortboards The hidden details in shaping that most surfers never see How board design influenced competitive surfing at the highest level The mindset required to stay relevant in the surf industry for decades Stories from the golden era of professional surfing What today's generation of surfers should understand about craft, foam, and rail lines Rusty shares insights into the art and science of shaping, explaining how subtle adjustments in rocker, volume distribution, and rail configuration can completely transform performance. For surfers, shapers, and true students of the sport, this episode is a masterclass in surfboard design. We also talk about longevity. In an industry that constantly shifts with trends, technology, and market cycles, Rusty Preisendorfer built a brand that became globally recognized while maintaining authenticity and performance integrity.  This episode of The Temple of Surf Podcast is not just about surfboards. It's about vision, resilience, creativity, and evolution. It's about how one shaper influenced generations of surfers and helped sculpt the direction of modern surfing. If you are passionate about surf history, surfboard shaping, design innovation, or the roots of high-performance surfing, this conversation is essential listening. 🎧 Listen now on Spotify, Apple Podcasts, and YouTube. 📲 Follow The Temple of Surf Podcast for more exclusive interviews with surf legends, pioneers, and cultural icons shaping the past, present, and future of surfing. This is more than an interview. This is a piece of surf history.

In this episode of The Temple of Surf Podcast, we sit down with Dave Tourjé, the visionary artist and co-founder of California Locos, a collective that helped define the visual language of modern surf, skate, and California counterculture. Dave Tourjé's work sits at the crossroads of surf culture, skateboarding, fine art, street art, and West Coast rebellion. From board graphics and murals to gallery walls and underground scenes, his influence reaches far beyond aesthetics, it's about identity, attitude, and freedom of expression. In this conversation, we explore how California Locos emerged from a raw, uncompromising creative energy rooted in Southern California's surf and skate communities. Dave shares stories from the early days, when surfing and skateboarding weren't just sports, but lifestyles — ways to push back against conformity and create something authentic. We talk about the deep connection between art and board culture, how surfboards and skate decks became moving canvases, and why the DIY spirit of skateboarding still fuels some of the most honest art today. Dave also reflects on the evolution of surf culture — from underground movement to global industry and what has been gained, and lost, along the way. This episode goes beyond nostalgia. It's a real discussion about creative integrity, staying true to your roots, and why art matters more than ever in an era of fast content and short attention spans. Dave Tourjé explains why California Locos was never about trends, but about community, collaboration, and storytelling. If you're passionate about surfing, skateboarding, California art, street culture, or creative independence, this episode is for you. Whether you grew up skating empty pools, watching surf films on VHS, or discovering this culture for the first time — this conversation captures the soul of it. 🎙️ Listen now and dive into the mindset behind California Locos, surf art, skate history, and the rebellious creativity that shaped a generation. 👉 Don't forget to like, subscribe, and share if surf and skate culture matters to you.

This week on The Temple of Surf Podcast, we welcome Laurent Pujol, an underwater cameraman and surf photographer whose work has helped define how modern surfing is seen, remembered, and felt. Laurent's career sits at the crossroads of risk, patience, and absolute precision. Shooting from inside the impact zone, often beneath moving mountains of water, he has developed a rare sensitivity to timing and positioning, the kind that only comes from years spent reading the ocean at its most unpredictable. In this conversation, we go beyond the surface of surf photography to explore what it truly means to work inside the wave, where mistakes are not an option and instinct is everything. A central part of the episode dives into Laurent's involvement with 100 Foot Wave, the groundbreaking documentary series that brought big-wave surfing into living rooms around the world. Laurent shares what it takes to film waves of that scale, not just technically, but mentally. From safety decisions to trust within the water team, he explains how capturing moments at that level requires humility, preparation, and an almost meditative calm in the face of real danger. We also rewind to European surf history, talking about the legendary Quiksilver Pro France in Hossegor. Laurent reflects on the unique atmosphere of the event, the raw power of the beachbreak, and how photographing high-performance surfing in such conditions shaped his eye and career. These memories paint a vivid picture of a time when surf contests felt wilder, closer, and deeply connected to place. Beyond iconic events and productions, this episode explores Laurent's philosophy of image-making. He speaks about restraint in an era of overproduction, the importance of waiting rather than forcing a shot, and why the most meaningful images often come when ego steps aside. His perspective resonates far beyond photography, touching on surfing as a practice of presence, listening, and respect for forces far bigger than ourselves. As always on The Temple of Surf Podcast, the conversation drifts naturally into stories, reflection, and the unseen layers of surf culture. This episode is not just for photographers or filmmakers, it's for anyone fascinated by the invisible work behind iconic images, and for surfers who understand that the ocean rewards those who move with intention rather than urgency. A deep, thoughtful episode with one of the quiet craftsmen of modern surf imagery, raw, honest, and deeply connected to the water.        

This week on The Temple of Surf Podcast, we sit down with Jerome Sahyoun, a Moroccan big-wave surfer whose life has been shaped by powerful oceans, remote coastlines, and a deep respect for waves that demand total commitment. Born and raised in Morocco, Jerome Sahyoun represents a generation of surfers who grew up far from the spotlight, but close to serious water. Morocco's long Atlantic coastline, exposed to relentless swells, became his training ground, a place where patience, observation, and humility are essential. In this episode, Jerome shares how surfing in Morocco forged both his skills and his mindset, preparing him for some of the heaviest conditions on the planet. We explore what it truly means to be a big-wave surfer, beyond the images and headlines. Jerome explains the preparation behind charging large, dangerous waves, physical training, breath control, teamwork, and mental discipline. Big-wave surfing is not about recklessness; it is about understanding risk, reading the ocean correctly, and knowing when to commit and when to walk away. The conversation dives into Jerome's experiences traveling in search of powerful surf, including his connection to Morocco, one of the world's most iconic big-wave arenas. He speaks honestly about fear, wipeouts, and survival, and how each experience in heavy water leaves a permanent mark. These moments, he explains, are not about ego or fame, but about confronting limits and learning respect for forces far greater than yourself. A central theme of this episode is discipline and responsibility. Jerome talks about how big-wave surfing forces maturity, how mistakes can have serious consequences, and how trust between surfers, drivers, and safety teams becomes essential. He also reflects on how surfing heavy waves influences daily life, shaping patience, decision-making, and perspective away from the ocean. We also discuss Morocco's growing presence in global surf culture. Jerome offers insight into the country's wave potential, its raw and often uncrowded surf zones, and the importance of local knowledge. He emphasizes protecting the environment and respecting local communities, reminding listeners that surfing is inseparable from the places and people that make it possible. This episode is not only for big-wave enthusiasts. It is for anyone fascinated by human limits, dedication, and the quiet courage required to face fear head-on. Jerome Sahyoun's story is grounded, honest, and free of exaggeration,  a rare look into the reality of a life shaped by powerful waves. 🎧 Tune in to The Temple of Surf Podcast for a deep, authentic conversation with Jerome Sahyoun,  a Moroccan big-wave surfer who reminds us that the ocean always decides, and respect is everything.

In this deep and compelling episode of The Temple of Surf Podcast, we welcome professor, writer, and one of the most insightful voices in surf literature, Andy Martin. Known for his ability to explore surfing beyond performance and competition, Andy brings a rare blend of academic depth, lived experience, and poetic clarity to the conversation. Andy Martin has spent decades writing about surfing as culture, obsession, language, and way of life. As a professor, lecturer and a lifelong surfer, he bridges the worlds of academia and the lineup, showing how waves can be read like texts and how surfing reveals powerful truths about identity, freedom, and human connection. His work stands apart for its honesty, nuance, and willingness to explore the emotional and often overlooked sides of surf history. A central focus of this episode is Andy's acclaimed book Surf, Sweat & Tears, which tells the remarkable and mysterious story of Ted Deerhurst, Britain's first professional surfer and a close personal friend of Andy's. The book moves beyond traditional surf biography, blending investigative writing, memoir, and cultural history to examine both the rise and tragic death of a deeply complex figure. Through this story, Andy reflects on loss, friendship, myth-making, and the responsibility of telling surf stories truthfully. In the episode, Andy shares how returning to Hawaii to investigate Deerhurst's life and death forced him to confront uncomfortable questions, not just about surfing's past, but about how the surf world remembers its heroes. He explains why surf history often leaves out inconvenient details, and why mature surf storytelling must allow space for contradiction, vulnerability, and unresolved mystery. The conversation also expands into broader reflections on surf culture today. Andy discusses how surfing has changed, how commercialization has altered its narratives, and why surfing still resists being fully explained or owned. He speaks about waiting, uncertainty, and attention, qualities surfing demands and modern life often erodes. For Andy, the ocean remains a teacher, offering lessons that extend far beyond the act of riding waves. This episode is not just for surfers, but for anyone interested in storytelling, culture, and the meaning we attach to passion and place. Andy Martin reminds us that surfing is not only something we do, but something we interpret, remember, and pass on through words. His insights invite listeners to slow down, listen more closely, and reconsider what really matters in the water and in life. Thoughtful, intelligent, and deeply human, this conversation honors surfing as both an art form and a way of understanding the world.

This week on The Temple of Surf Podcast, we sit down with Vincent Kardasik, a director, cinematographer, and visual storyteller whose work bridges the worlds of surf culture, film, and ocean-driven narratives. Vincent is known not only for capturing powerful surf imagery, but for directing and crafting moving stories that go far beyond a single frame. Through film, cinematography, and photography, he explores the emotional depth of surfing, the patience, the tension, the silence, and the moments of release that define life in and around the ocean. In this episode, Vincent shares his creative journey and how his passion for the sea led him naturally toward directing and cinematography. We talk about the transition from still photography to motion, what changes when you begin telling stories through sequences rather than single images, and how timing, light, and perspective remain essential no matter the medium. The conversation dives deep into the art of surf filmmaking, from pre-visualizing shots and working with surfers in dynamic environments to navigating heavy conditions, unpredictable weather, and the technical challenges of filming in the ocean. Vincent explains how a director's mindset differs from that of a photographer, and why understanding narrative, rhythm, and emotion is just as important as mastering cameras and lenses. We also explore the realities of modern surf media. Vincent reflects on how short-form content, social platforms, and fast consumption have changed the way surf films are created and experienced, and why long-form storytelling still matters. He shares insights on collaboration, creative pressure, and the importance of maintaining artistic integrity while working in a highly competitive visual space. Beyond technique and production, this episode is about vision. Vincent speaks about authenticity, respecting surf culture, and the responsibility that comes with documenting waves, places, and people. We discuss how surf cinematography can influence perception, shaping not only how waves are seen, but how surfing itself is understood. Whether you're a filmmaker, surfer, creative, or simply passionate about visual storytelling and the ocean, this episode offers valuable insight into the craft of directing surf films and the mindset required to create work that resonates. This is a thoughtful and inspiring conversation with a filmmaker who sees surfing not just as action, but as cinema , shaped by light, movement, patience, and truth. #VincentKardasik, #SurfCinematography, #SurfDirector, #SurfFilms, #TheTempleOfSurfPodcast, #OceanFilmmaking, #SurfPhotography, #VisualStorytelling, #SurfCulture, #ActionSportsFilm, #CinematographerLife, #BehindTheLens, #OceanStories

This week on The Temple of Surf Podcast, we sit down with legendary surfboard shaper Joe Blair, a true craftsman whose influence on modern surfboard design runs deep through decades of wave riding, innovation, and hands-on shaping. Known for his commitment to functionality, flow, and timeless outlines, Joe Blair represents a generation of shapers who learned their craft in dusty bays, under fluorescent lights, driven purely by feel, intuition, and an obsession with waves. In this episode, Joe Blair takes us back to the roots of his shaping journey, how he first fell in love with surfing, the boards that inspired him, and the mentors and surf cultures that shaped his approach. We talk about the evolution of surfboard design, from classic single fins and early shortboards to the refined performance shapes of today, and how Joe has managed to stay relevant without ever chasing trends. A central theme of this conversation is craftsmanship versus mass production. Joe shares his perspective on what it means to hand-shape boards in an era dominated by CNC machines, pop-out surfboards, and fast-turnaround factories. He explains why subtle details, rail volume, rocker curves, foil distribution, still matter, and how a board built with intention can dramatically change the way a surfer connects with a wave. Joe Blair also opens up about shaping boards for real surfers, not marketing concepts. We discuss how listening to surfers, watching them surf, and understanding their local waves is just as important as any technical measurement. From beach breaks to point waves, from everyday surfers to seasoned chargers, Joe explains how he adapts his designs to suit different styles, conditions, and personalities. Beyond shaping, this episode dives into surf culture itself: the shift in values, the impact of social media, and how younger generations are rediscovering the beauty of simplicity and craftsmanship. Joe reflects on the responsibility of shapers to pass down knowledge, protect surf heritage, and keep the soul of surfing alive in a rapidly changing industry. This is a deep, thoughtful, and inspiring conversation, perfect for surfers, shapers, collectors, and anyone fascinated by the art and history of surfboard design. Whether you ride a Joe Blair board or simply appreciate the culture behind surfing, this episode offers rare insight into the mind of a master craftsman who has dedicated his life to waves. 🎧 Tune in now and immerse yourself in the world of Joe Blair, where foam, fiberglass, and feel come together in their purest form. #TempleOfSurfPodcast,#JoeBlair,#SurfboardShaper,#HandShapedSurfboards,#SurfboardDesign,#SurfCraftsmanship,#SurfCulture,#SurfHistory,#CustomSurfboards,#ShaperLife,#SurfPodcast,#SurfingHeritage,#BoardBuilding,#WaveRiding,#SurfArt,#SoulSurfing

In this week's episode of The Temple of Surf Podcast, we sit down with one of the most quietly influential craftsmen in modern surfing: Ian Byrne, master surfboard shaper, designer, and the visionary behind some of the equipment trusted by surfers around the world. Known for his deep respect for tradition and his relentless drive to refine the feel of a surfboard under the feet of everyday surfers, Ian has built a career grounded in precision, humility, and an authentic love for the craft. Across our conversation, Ian takes us on a journey from his early days learning the fundamentals of shaping to his evolution into a respected figure in the shaping community. He shares insights into what truly defines a great board, the fine balance between performance and accessibility, and why every board, whether a high-performance shortboard or a playful twin carries the imprint of the surfer it's made for. We explore the shaping philosophies that guide his work today: the importance of hand-foiling, the role of intuition, and the ongoing dance between tradition and technological advancement. Ian reflects on the lessons learned from years spent in shaping bays around the world, and how various coastlines, breaks, and surf cultures have influenced his approach to design. He also dives into sustainability, discussing how shapers can push toward more responsible materials and smarter production processes, without compromising quality or performance. For those fascinated by surfboard design, this episode offers a rare glimpse into the mind of a shaper who deeply understands how subtle changes,  a rail tucked a little differently, a fin placement adjusted a few millimeters, a rocker line re-imagined can transform an entire surfing experience. For surfers simply looking to better connect with their equipment, Ian offers thoughtful guidance on how to choose the right board, how to communicate with your shaper, and what it really means to find a board that "matches your surfing." We also speak about the current state of the surf industry: the pressures on hand shapers, the impact of machine shaping, and the rise of boutique brands that are pushing creativity forward. Ian's perspective is refreshingly grounded — honoring the past, embracing the present, and remaining optimistic about the future of surf craft. Whether you're a seasoned surfer, a board collector, a design nerd, or someone discovering the beauty of surf craft for the first time, Ian Byrne's story is a reminder that behind every great wave ridden, there is a board and behind every great board, there is a shaper with passion, patience, and a willingness to chase perfection one curve at a time. Tune in to hear a conversation that celebrates craftsmanship, creativity, and the timeless relationship between surfer and shaper. Another inspiring episode from The Temple of Surf.

This week on The Temple of Surf Podcast, we sit down with one of the most respected, quietly influential surfboard shapers of the past four decades: Rob Vaughan. A master craftsman, a true student of wave mechanics, and a lifelong innovator, Rob has shaped a legacy that stretches from the golden era of Californian surfing to the performance-driven boards of today. In this in-depth conversation, he opens up about his journey, his shaping philosophy, and the stories behind some of the most iconic boards he's ever created. Born and raised in South Coast of England, Rob grew up surrounded by the energy of the surf boom. His fascination with board design began early, first sanding, then repairing, eventually shaping his first boards out of curiosity and necessity. Over the years, he developed a reputation for clean lines, refined rails, and a sensitivity to feedback that earned the respect of both everyday surfers and elite riders. Rob never chased the spotlight; instead, he let the boards speak. And they spoke loudly. In this episode, Rob shares the roots of his craft, reflecting on what surf culture looked like in the 1970s and 1980s, how he learned under shaping legends, and how experimentation became part of his DNA. He explains how the shift from single fins to twins, to thrusters, and later to high-performance shortboards shaped his approach to design. His insights into foam density, rail volume, rocker lines, and fin placement reveal the deep technical knowledge behind the clean, understated boards that surfers treasure. We also explore Rob's life beyond the planer: his time shaping internationally, the feedback loops with surfers that pushed him to refine his designs, and his belief that a great surfboard is a collaboration between shaper, surfer, and wave. Rob discusses the importance of trust in that relationship, how listening to a surfer's language, even when imprecise, can guide him toward subtle adjustments that dramatically transform performance. One of the most inspiring parts of the episode is Rob's perspective on the future of surfboard building. He shares his thoughts on sustainability, new materials, the role of hand-shaping in an era of CNC machines, and why craftsmanship still matters more than ever. For Rob, technology is a tool, but soul is something you cannot automate. His passion for blending tradition with evolution offers a refreshing vision of where surfboard design is headed. We close by diving into personal stories, Rob's most memorable sessions, the boards that surprised him, the collaborations that shaped his career, and the lessons he learned from decades spent in shaping bays around the world. Whether you're a surfer, a shaper, or simply someone who loves the artistry of surfing, this conversation provides rare insight into a man who helped shape not only surfboards but surf culture itself. Tune in and discover the craftsmanship, humility, and innovation of Rob Vaughan, a true architect of the ride.

This week on The Temple of Surf Podcast, we are honored to welcome one of the most recognizable names in surf photography: Sean Davey. Known for his unmistakable style, masterful use of light, and deep connection with the ocean, Sean has spent decades documenting the beauty, culture, and spirit of surfing. His images, often vibrant, dreamlike, and full of emotion—have become iconic in surf magazines and galleries across the world. Born in Tasmania and later establishing himself in Hawaii, Sean Davey developed an eye for the kind of ocean moments that most people never see. From glassy underwater worlds to dramatic shorebreak explosions, Sean captures the ocean with a rare sensitivity. In this episode, we dive into his journey, his philosophy, and the creative process behind some of his most legendary photographs. Sean shares stories from his early days shooting film, learning to understand the sea as both a subject and a collaborator, and finding his place among the world's finest surf photographers in Hawaii—home to some of the most challenging and beautiful waves on earth. We talk about the evolution of surf imagery, from the analog era to today's digital world, and how he continues to innovate while staying true to his artistic roots. One of the highlights of this conversation is Sean's perspective on patience and presence, two qualities essential for capturing extraordinary ocean moments. He explains how the best photographs often come from hours of observation, deep respect for nature, and a willingness to let the ocean reveal its magic. Whether it's a glowing sunrise barrel, a perfectly timed wave explosion, or an underwater dance of light and color, Sean's images remind us that the sea is always changing, always alive. We discuss the technical side too: gear, lenses, housings, the importance of understanding surf conditions, and what it takes to shoot in heavy water. Sean also opens up about the transition from editorial work to fine-art photography, building a global collector base, and why he believes ocean imagery has such a healing and transformative power. This episode is a tribute to passion, creativity, and the timeless beauty of the sea. Whether you are a photographer, surfer, ocean lover, or simply someone who appreciates stunning visuals, Sean Davey's story will inspire you to see the world around you with more curiosity and gratitude. Tune in and experience the ocean through the eyes of a master.

13TH SEASON FINALE!!! In this exclusive episode of The Temple of Surf Podcast, we dive deep into the mind of W. Peter Iliff, the legendary screenwriter who brought one of the most iconic surf films of all time to life : Point Break. Written in the early 1990s and directed by Kathryn Bigelow, Point Break became a cultural phenomenon, blending the adrenaline of big-wave surfing with the raw energy of undercover crime and spiritual brotherhood. Peter shares the incredible story of how Point Break came to be  from his early writing days in Los Angeles to the moment the film caught the attention of Hollywood. We talk about the creative process behind the screenplay, his collaboration with Bigelow, and how characters like Johnny Utah (Keanu Reeves) and Bodhi (Patrick Swayze) became timeless symbols of freedom, rebellion, and the search for meaning through surfing. Iliff opens up about the challenges of writing a movie that went beyond surf clichés and instead captured the soul of the ocean, the philosophy of living on the edge, and the spiritual bond among surfers and outlaws alike. We also discuss how Point Break continues to inspire generations of surfers, filmmakers, and dreamers more than 30 years later. From behind-the-scenes stories to the deeper message of "If you want the ultimate, you've got to be willing to pay the ultimate price," this episode explores why Point Break remains one of the greatest surf movies ever made, not just for its action, but for its heart. Peter also shares updates about his current projects, his reflections on Hollywood storytelling today, and his personal connection to the surf community that embraced Point Break as a spiritual anthem. Whether you're a surfer, a movie lover, or someone chasing your own wave in life, this conversation will remind you why the ocean and cinema are both places where truth and freedom collide. Tune in to The Temple of Surf Podcast and join me for a powerful, nostalgic, and inspiring journey through surf culture, art, and storytelling with one of the most influential screenwriters of our time. 🎧 Available on Spotify, YouTube, and all major podcast platforms. #TheTempleOfSurfPodcast, #PointBreak, #WPeterIliff, #PointBreakMovie, #SurfingCulture, #SurfLegends, #PatrickSwayze, #KeanuReeves, #JohnnyUtah, #Bodhi, #KathrynBigelow, #SurfMovies, #SurfFilm, #SurfPodcast, #SurfLife, #SurfVibes, #SurfersSpirit, #OceanSoul, #SurfCommunity, #SurfingLegends, #SurfingHistory, #HollywoodStories, #Screenwriting, #FilmWriting, #AdrenalineJunkie, #ExtremeSports, #BeachLife, #SurfPhilosophy, #PointBreakFans, #TheTempleOfSurf

Johnny Cabianca – The Shaper Behind the Champions In this new episode of The Temple of Surf Podcast, we sit down with one of the world's most respected surfboard shapers, Johnny Cabianca, the Brazilian craftsman whose boards have powered some of the greatest surfers on the planet, including Gabriel Medina, multiple-time World Champion. From his early days in Brazil to his current shaping bay in the Basque Country, Johnny shares an extraordinary story of talent, dedication, and a lifelong obsession with performance surfing. In this exclusive interview, Johnny Cabianca opens up about his beginnings in São Paulo, how he first discovered the magic of shaping, and what drove him to move across the world to Euskadi, where he now builds his world-renowned Cabianca Surfboards. He talks about the creative process behind designing a high-performance surfboard, the delicate balance between innovation and intuition, and what it takes to translate a surfer's personality and energy into foam, resin, and speed. We explore the golden years of his collaboration with Gabriel Medina, from their first boards together to the unforgettable 2014 World Title victory. Johnny reflects on the evolution of surfboard design for competitive surfing, the impact of wave pools, and how new materials and technologies are shaping the future of performance surfing. He also discusses how he maintains authenticity and craftsmanship in a world increasingly dominated by mass-production and marketing hype. But beyond technique and competition, this episode also dives deep into Johnny's philosophy of surfing and life, his belief that shaping is an art form, his connection with the ocean, and his gratitude for being part of a global community that shares the same passion. From shaping bays in Brazil to the powerful waves of the Basque Coast, Johnny's story is one of perseverance, creativity, and the timeless pursuit of excellence. If you love surf culture, design, and craftsmanship, this episode is a must-listen. You'll hear about the tools, the rituals, and the inspirations that make each Cabianca board unique a fusion of Brazilian soul and Basque precision. Johnny also offers advice for young shapers starting out today, and shares his vision of what the next generation of surfboards and surfers might look like. Join Alessandro as he uncovers the human side of one of surfing's most iconic board builders. A celebration of artistry, friendship, and the never-ending quest to create the perfect board. 🎧 Listen now on YouTube, Spotify, and all major podcast platforms. 🌊 The Temple of Surf The Podcast, conversations that keep the stoke alive.

This week on The Temple of Surf Podcast, we welcome one of the most distinctive voices in modern surfboard design, Jeff McCallum. Known for his meticulous craftsmanship, innovative shapes, and instantly recognizable aesthetic, McCallum has become a cult figure among surfboard collectors and riders alike. From his San Diego workshop, he creates what many call rideable art boards that merge performance, creativity, and visual beauty in perfect harmony. In this episode, we dive deep into Jeff's journey, from his early days learning the craft to developing his own unique design language that blends mid-century influences, Japanese precision, and a Californian sense of flow. McCallum opens up about what it truly means to shape by hand in a digital age, why he values imperfection, and how each board carries the soul of its maker. Listeners will discover how Jeff's boards have become icons in surf culture from sleek fishes and asymmetrical designs to resin-tinted masterpieces that look as good on a wave as they do on a gallery wall. We talk about the process behind the glassing techniques that give his boards their luminous depth, what inspires him and the mindset required to keep evolving while staying true to craftsmanship. Whether you're a surfer, a collector, or simply someone fascinated by creativity, this conversation reveals the deeper philosophy behind the shaping bay, where foam and resin meet imagination. McCallum reminds us that surfing isn't just about chasing waves, it's about connection: to the ocean, to design, and to the timeless pursuit of making something meaningful with your hands. From custom collaborations to limited-edition art pieces, Jeff's boards reflect a rare blend of authenticity and innovation. His approach challenges today's fast-paced, mass-produced surf industry, inviting us to slow down and appreciate the story behind every line, curve, and color. Tune in to The Temple of Surf Podcast and immerse yourself in the creative world of Jeff McCallum a conversation about art, surfing, and the eternal craftsmanship that keeps surf culture alive.  

🦈 Protecting Sharks, Protecting the Ocean – A Conversation with David McGuire (Shark Stewards) This week on The Temple of Surf Podcast, we swim into the world of ocean conservation with one of the most passionate defenders of marine life David McGuire, marine biologist, filmmaker, and founder of Shark Stewards. Known to many as "Shark Stewards Dave", McGuire has dedicated his life to protecting sharks and restoring healthy ocean ecosystems. From the wild waters of California to the coral reefs of the Indo-Pacific, his mission is clear: to save sharks and safeguard the balance of the sea. Sharks have been swimming our oceans for over 400 million years, yet today they face one of the most severe threats in their long evolutionary history, overfishing, habitat loss, and the cruel practice of shark finning. Through his non-profit organization Shark Stewards, David has been on the frontlines of this battle, successfully helping to pass legislation banning the shark fin trade in several U.S. states, and working internationally to promote sustainable fisheries and marine protected areas. In this inspiring conversation, we explore how David's journey from ocean explorer and filmmaker led him to become a leading voice in marine advocacy. We talk about his early encounters with sharks, his documentaries for National Geographic and other media, and the moment he realized he could no longer stand by while these incredible animals were disappearing from our oceans. His passion is contagious, and his stories remind us that every one of us surfer, diver, or ocean lover has a role to play in protecting the blue heart of our planet. We also discuss how sharks are misunderstood creatures, often feared rather than respected. David breaks down the myths surrounding shark attacks and shares how media sensationalism has distorted our view of these apex predators. In reality, sharks are essential to the health of marine ecosystems. Without them, the delicate balance of the ocean collapses. Through education, science, and storytelling, Shark Stewards works to replace fear with understanding and action. From the great whites cruising California's coast to the reef sharks of the South Pacific, David's insights illuminate the complex relationship between humans and the sea. This episode isn't just about conservation, it's about connection. It's a reminder that protecting sharks means protecting the very waves we ride and the oceans that define our culture as surfers. Tune in to this episode of The Temple of Surf and be inspired by David McGuire's vision of a future where sharks still roam free, coral reefs thrive, and the ocean remains wild and alive for generations to come.

The Temple of Surf Podcast is back with another inspiring episode, and this week we're diving into the world of surf art with one of the most intriguing names on the scene today: Rick Blake. Known for his bold strokes, vibrant palettes, and ability to capture the raw energy of waves and surf culture on canvas, Rick has established himself as a unique voice bridging the ocean and artistic expression. Surf art has always been more than decoration, it's a way to preserve the soul of surfing, to translate fleeting moments into lasting visual stories. Rick Blake's work does exactly that. His paintings don't just depict surfers riding waves; they reflect the lifestyle, the freedom, and the connection between humans and the sea. Whether it's a stormy break crashing on a rugged coastline or the calm glow of a sunset surf session, Rick's canvases radiate the emotion of the ocean. In this episode, we talk about his creative journey, how Rick discovered painting as a way to honor his love for surfing, the influences that shaped his style, and the challenges of making a career as a surf artist. From early sketches to large-scale works exhibited in galleries, Rick's path is a story of passion, persistence, and dedication to his craft. He shares stories about painting on location, how he studies wave movement, and the techniques he uses to capture the flow and rhythm of water on a flat surface. We also focus into the larger world of surf art and why it matters. Surfing isn't just a sport, it's a culture with its own language, history, and aesthetic. Rick Blake explains how art preserves the heritage of surfing, inspiring younger generations and reminding us of the pioneers who first paddled out decades ago. He discusses the responsibility artists carry in representing surf culture authentically while also pushing the boundaries of creativity. As you listen, you'll hear Rick's perspective on the future of surf art in a digital age. How does social media change the way artists share their work? What role do collaborations with brands, surf museums, and fellow creatives play in spreading the movement? And how can surf art inspire environmental awareness, encouraging people to protect the waves and beaches we all cherish? If you're passionate about surfing, creativity, or simply love stories of people following their calling, this conversation will inspire you. Rick Blake's art reminds us that surfing is not only about chasing the perfect wave,it's also about celebrating the beauty and spirit of the ocean in all forms. Tune in to The Temple of Surf Podcast and discover the world of Rick Blake, a surf artist whose canvases breathe salt air and sunlight.  

Welcome to a new episode of The Temple of Surf Podcast! This week we sit down with Damien Marly, surfboard shaper, surfer, and founder of Chipirons Surfboards, a brand born in the heart of Les Landes, France. For Damien, surfing has always been more than a sport, it's a lifestyle, a connection to nature, and a way of expressing creativity through craft. What started as a personal journey of shaping boards turned into Chipirons Surfboards, a label that has become known in Europe and beyond for its originality, community spirit, and beautifully crafted boards. In this episode, Damien takes us inside his shaping bay and philosophy. We talk about: The early days of his surfing life and how Chipirons was created. How the powerful beach breaks of Les Landes inspire his designs. His approach to surfboard design and innovation, from retro fish to performance shortboards. The importance of sustainability and local craftsmanship in surf culture today. The unique Chipirons identity: a mix of fun, family, and passion that attracts surfers from all over Europe. Damien also shares his thoughts on what it means to keep surfing authentic in an age of mass production, and how shaping boards by hand connects the surfer to the ocean in a deeper way. Whether you are a surfer, a surfboard collector, or simply someone fascinated by the stories behind iconic surf brands, this conversation will give you insight into the soul of surfing in France. Listen now and join us in celebrating the world of surfboards, craftsmanship, and surf culture with Damien Marly of Chipirons Surfboards.

Pipeline, Legends & Surf History with Rory Russell This week on The Temple of Surf Podcast we are honored to welcome one of the most iconic figures in surfing's golden age:  Rory Russell. Known to the world as the "Pipeline Prince," Rory rose to fame in the 1970s with a fearless style, unmatched charisma, and a deep connection to one of the most dangerous and celebrated waves on the planet. His story is not only about individual triumphs, but also about an era of surfing that shaped the culture as we know it today. Born and raised on the North Shore of Oahu, Rory grew up in the epicenter of the surf revolution. While the 1960s gave us the longboard boom and the first professional contests, it was in the 1970s that surfing truly matured into a global sport and lifestyle. Rory Russell, with his flowing hair, infectious smile, and electrifying presence in the water, became both a competitor and a cultural figure. His back-to-back Pipeline Masters victories in 1976 and 1977 etched his name permanently into the history of surfing, cementing his reputation as one of the greats of that era. In this episode, we dive deep into those years of transformation, when professional surfing tours were just starting to take shape, and when Pipeline itself was being redefined by riders like Gerry Lopez and Rory Russell. Together, they set the standard for what it meant to charge one of the heaviest waves in the world. Rory's approach was fearless yet stylish, proving that big-wave performance could be both radical and graceful. But Rory's story goes beyond trophies and titles. He represents a spirit of aloha that transcends competition. Even today, decades after his competitive peak, Rory is celebrated for his humor, his generosity, and his willingness to keep the stories of surf history alive. Few people can talk about the golden age with such authenticity, not only because he lived it, but because he was one of the shining stars of that time. Listeners will hear Rory reflect on what it was like to be part of the North Shore scene when it was still raw, untamed, and legendary. He shares stories of traveling the world with little more than a board under his arm, chasing waves, and discovering cultures far from Hawaii. We discuss the early days of surfboard design experimentation, the friendships and rivalries that shaped competitions, and the unique atmosphere of Pipeline in the 1970s a proving ground where reputations were built in a single drop. We also explore what surf history means to Rory now. He is not just looking back with nostalgia, but also forward with passion. He remains involved in passing down knowledge to the next generation, making sure the lessons, values, and stories of his era are not forgotten. His reflections remind us that surfing is not just about riding waves but about the community, creativity, and courage that come with it. This episode is more than just an interview, it's a journey into a time when surfing was wild, free, and evolving into the global phenomenon we know today. Rory Russell is a bridge between the mythic past and the vibrant present, a storyteller whose laughter carries the rhythm of the waves he once dominated. Join us as we sit down with Rory Russell to talk surf history, Pipeline, and the spirit of aloha. Whether you are a lifelong surfer, a student of surf culture, or simply someone who loves great stories, this episode will take you straight to the heart of surfing's golden era.

This week on The Temple of Surf Podcast, we welcome a truly unique voice in surf culture: Japanese surf photographer Tatsuo Takei, whose eye for authenticity has inspired and preserved the soul of surfing for decades. Known for his celebrated book Authentic Wave, Tatsuo has carved his own path as an artist, blending timeless craftsmanship with a deep love for the ocean and the communities that revolve around it. Tatsuo's story is one of passion, patience, and devotion. Born in Osaka, Japan, he grew up far from the breaks of California and Hawaii, yet the pull of the surf lifestyle was impossible to resist. His early fascination with American surf magazines and films eventually led him on a journey across the Pacific, where he immersed himself in the surf scenes of California. Unlike many contemporary photographers, Tatsuo has remained committed to shooting on film, particularly 16mm, embracing a medium that demands discipline and rewards authenticity. In a world dominated by digital speed and convenience, his analog approach offers something rare: photographs that capture the quiet poetry of surfing. His book Authentic Wave is not just a collection of images, it is a cultural statement. Page after page, Tatsuo documents a surfing experience that values style, community, and purity over competition and commercialization. He focuses on longboarding, classic style, and the personalities who embody surfing's roots, reminding us that this culture is about much more than chasing the next contest trophy. His work resonates with surfers around the world who long for a connection to the essence of wave-riding, unfiltered and unpolished. In our conversation, Tatsuo shares what drove him to dedicate his life to film photography in an era when most abandoned it. He explains the technical and artistic challenges of working with film in the ever-changing conditions of the ocean. From loading cameras in the sand to timing shots perfectly with light and swell, his craft is both art and ritual. The results, however, are stunning images that feel alive, textured, and eternal. We also explore how cultural perspective shapes his art. Coming from Japan but embedding himself in the Californian surf world, Tatsuo bridges two traditions, offering a unique lens on what it means to be a surfer. He speaks about the Japanese reverence for nature, harmony, and tradition, and how these values influence the way he documents surfers gliding along timeless waves. For anyone who has felt the magic of a perfectly ridden wave or admired the effortless style of classic longboarding, Tatsuo's work is a reminder of surfing's eternal truths. His photographs are not just about action; they are about atmosphere, spirit, and the fleeting moments that make surfing a way of life rather than just a sport. Tune in to this episode to hear Tatsuo Takei reflect on his journey, his book Authentic Wave, and his vision for the future of surf culture. It's a conversation that honors surfing's past while reminding us of the importance of staying true to its essence.