Ecotextile Talks

In this episode Ecotextile Talks host Philip Berman speaks with ThredUp's Chief Strategy Officer Alon Rotem about the company's "resale as a service" model, from white-lable branded resale shops to multi-brand clean-out schemes that can turn underused wardrobes into store credit. They discuss what the real driver is for consumers, how ThredUp's distribution centres work at scale, why brands decide to plug into this infrastructure than trying to build it themselves.​ Circularity, policy and impact They also discuss what happens to the garments that do not sell, ThredUp's aftermarket partners, and what % of items entering its ecosystem end up without a second life. Philip and Alon also look at how California's new extended producer responsibility law could accelerate brand adoption of circular business models.​ AI and the road to 2029 Alon shares ThredUp's latest financial trajectory, the company's decade-long investment in technology, and how AI could transform the consumer experience of the resale sector, and potentially help them to finally return a profit after going public in 2021.  Links mentioned in the podcast ThredUp's 2025 annual impact report ThredUp's quarterly financial filings British Vogue reporting on Yale's study about second-hand shoppers This episode is presented in association with Techtextil North America, the premier trade fair for technical textiles and nonwovens, taking place from  4–6 August 2026 in Raleigh, North Carolina.        ​ ​

Ecotextile Talks, host Philip Berman talks to Frank Michel, CEO of the ZDHC Foundation, about why he thinks cleaner chemistry is becoming a hard ESG requirement rather than a nice-to-have for the global textile value chain. They explore how ZDHC has evolved from its original Manufacturing Restricted Substances List (MRSL) focus into a broader nature-impact lens that links process chemistry to water quality, biodiversity, climate, and investor risk. Frank explains the thinking behind ZDHC's new impact framework, developed with environmental consultancy Quantis, which uses lifecycle assessment (LCA) and facility-level data to model how switching from conventional to ZDHC‑conformant chemicals can cut pollution indicators – with early pilots suggesting local reductions of 80–96% when compliant formulations replace non-compliant ones. They discuss why this work matters for ESG ratings, and why major rating agencies are now asking sharper questions about chemical risk, in an industry some investors increasingly compare to the fossil fuel one, from a risk perspective. https://www.roadmaptozero.com/zdhc-quantis-report-2025 How to subscribe to Ecotextile News https://www.ecotextile.com/membership-account/membership-levels/ Following Ecotextile Talks Ecotextile Talks is available on Apple Podcasts, Spotify, Amazon Music, and wherever you listen to podcasts.         

In partnership with the British Textile Machinery Association (BTMA), host Philip Berman takes listeners on a virtual journey to ITMA ASIA + CITME in Singapore with guests Alex Zucchi of CEMATEX, Jason Kent CEO of the BTMA, and Richard Slack of Fibre Extrusion Technology. In advance of the exhibition which starts on October 28 in Singapore, they explore how European and UK manufacturers are positioning themselves amid global shifts in textiles, from sustainability and circularity to the rise of technical textiles. Alex explains why ITMA's format remains unique. Jason highlights the UK's innovation-driven approach and the importance of Singapore as a neutral, accessible hub for Asian markets. And Richard offers insight into how technical textile machinery manufacturers are differentiating through R&D, partnerships with universities. Together they discuss how the textile machinery sector is responding to global supply challenges, and the growing demand for technical and high-value materials.  

Host Philip Berman talks to Kim Glas, President and CEO of the National Council of Textile Organizations, about the impact of Trump's tariffs on US textile manufacturing.  Kim discusses the challenges posed by tariff unpredictability, including the effects on investment and supply chains, and the winners and losers in the industry.  She highlights issues in machinery sourcing, the effect of high tariff rates on synthetics, and the role of major trade agreements like USMCA and CAFTA. Kim also addresses reshoring opportunities, and the strategic need for policy certainty to strengthen domestic production.      

Did environmental campaigners really contribute to a decline in cotton's global share of fibre production?  Well, according to a rather punchy opinion piece in Cotton Grower a couple of months ago, the answer is a resounding, yes. The article claims that environmentalists have been intellectually dishonest and fed a binary narrative of cotton bad, synthetic fibers good….which created pressure from watchdogs and investor ESG mandates…which then led to brands moving away from conventional cotton to synthetics…and as a result we are now awash with cheap synthetics clothing.  Now, this is a lot to leave at the door of environmentalists, and this polemic seemed a bit lop-sided, so to balance things out we thought it would be good to talk to Ecotextile News' dedicated Cotton Correspondent Simon Ferrigno, who has also done his fair share of environmental campaigner over the years.   Do people like Simon have a case to answer for? In the podcast, we also turn the article's claim on its head - and ask whether the cotton industry should pay more attention to the many environmentalists' trying to make cotton production more sustainable and efficient. Relevant Articles from Ecotextile News Innovations discussed by Simon Ferrigno Food spray Avalo machine learning   How to subscribe to Ecotextile News https://www.ecotextile.com/membership-account/membership-levels/ Following Ecotextile Talks Ecotextile Talks is available on Apple Podcasts, Spotify, Amazon Music, and wherever you listen to podcasts.       

In this edition, made possible with the support of Textile Exchange, host Philip Berman is joined by its Chief Strategy Officer, Ashley Gill, and mohair farmer and textile producer Frances Van Hasselt. Frances is at the heart of mohair production in South Africa - a country that supplies more than 50% of that fiber used in the world's textile industry. She is involved in everything from farming her family land, home to 7,000 Angora goats, to landing high-end fashion deals. Her family has also received accolades, winning the Miyuki Award 10 years in a row - a Japanese prize for the best quality mohair, produced globally under the most sustainable practices. In the conversation, Frances explores how being rooted in the land shapes every aspect of her work. She also discusses the challenges and pride associated with local production, and along with Ashley, explains the role that Textile Exchange's standards play in connecting small producers to the global supply chain. Also covered: The realities and rewards of mohair farming in South Africa - Frances VH reveals the biggest challenge facing her, and farmers the world over. Why Textile Exchange is introducing a unified Materials Matter Standard and how will this affect Frances and her fellow tier four producers?   Relevant Articles from Eco Textile News Textile Exchange unveils unified standard Textile Exchange reveals five year strategy   Links to other organisations Frances Van Hasselt's Textile Company Textile Exchange   How to subscribe https://www.ecotextile.com/membership-account/membership-levels/   Following Ecotextile Talks Ecotextile Talks is available on Apple Podcasts, Spotify, Amazon Music, and wherever you listen to podcasts.                 

While on his travels in Indonesia, our correspondent Shivam Gusain speaks to Philip Berman about his latest Ecotextile News article on decarbonising the textile industry, fossil fuel subsidies, and polyester taxation. Speaking within the current context of the volatile tariff war between the US and supply chain countries like China, Vietnam, and Bangladesh, Shivam advocates for fiscal approaches that reduce the cost of sustainable alternatives rather than excessive taxation. He emphasises the interdependence of fossil fuels and global stability, saying that removing subsidies and applying levies are deeply political acts. The full article "Carbon taxes will halt textile sector progress" features in our August 2025 print edition – out today – and is available here on our digital platform for premium members. You can read the full story in print or online, while at the same time supporting the work that we do to improve the environmental and social profile of our industry, by becoming a member of our global community. How to subscribe https://www.ecotextile.com/membership-account/membership-levels/ Following Ecotextile Talks Ecotextile Talks is available on Apple Podcasts, Spotify, Amazon Music, and wherever you listen to podcasts.   

Fresh off a flight from the ZDHC Impact Day in The Netherlands, John Mowbray gives a quick overview of the talking points at this week's Amsterdam event to Philip Berman for a short 'from our own correspondent' edition of Ecotextile Talks. Subscribe to Ecotextile Talks podcasts and radio shows by following us on Apple, Spotify and Amazon Music. Also, take a look at our complete podcast archive.    

In this episode of Ecotextile Talks our host, Philip Berman, is joined by Shivam Gusain a former innovation analyst at Fashion For Good, and now an independent consultant and writer. The conversation was inspired by his recent substack post entitled: 'Crash Testing the Circular Economy.' in which he argues that we should investe in 'failure', not just success, to reveal the real boundaries of textile-to-textile recycling. Drawing on his experience across industry, engineering, and business, Shivam discusses with Philip what we can learn from other industries, and challenges us to reconsider where our money, attention, and optimism are best spent. Listen in as Shivam asks some tough questions every apparel and textile industry professional should be considering. How to Listen & Subscribe Ecotextile Talks is available on Apple Podcasts, Spotify, Amazon Music, and wherever you listen to podcasts.  Previous stories on the topic Renewcell troubles: https://www.ecotextile.com/2024032648446/news/features/renewcell-when-risk-doesn-t-equal-reward/  For more news and analysis, visit our website at ecotextile.com. Shivam's substack Contact & Feedback For questions, feedback, or to suggest a guest, email philip@larchmontfilms.com      

In this episode host Philip Berman sits down with  Dr Talia Hussain whose recent academic paper on circular fashion sparked lively debate across the industry.  Dr Hussain, a PhD in design innovation and MBA, is known for her critical analysis on the mainstream circular fashion narrative.  Together, they take a deep dive into the promises—and potential pitfalls—of circularity in the textile sector, with a particular focus on the influential 2017 Ellen MacArthur Foundation (EMF) and its A New Textiles Economy: Redesigning fashion's future report. Key Topics Discussed The EMF's $460 Billion Claim Dr Hussain questions the widely cited figure from the EMF report, its assumptions and real-world implications for industry revenues and the potential size of the reuse sector. She explains why she thinks greater scrutiny is needed when using such reports to drive regulation, and discusses what gets overlooked when focusing solely on circular models. Further Reading & Resources Dr Talia Hussain's academic paper: The Emperor's old clothes: a critical review of circular fashion in gray literature The Ellen MacArthur Foundations 2017 Report: A New Textiles Economy: Redesigning fashion's future  How to Listen & Subscribe Ecotextile Talks is available on Apple Podcasts, Spotify, Amazon Music, and wherever you listen to podcasts.  For more news and analysis, visit our website at ecotextile.com. Contact & Feedback For questions, feedback, or to suggest a guest, email philip@larchmontfilms.com F9lNQYxZAGUkFJRwZZ9r

In light of their 2024 Annual and Sustainability Report, Philip Berman catches up with Krishna Manda, Lenzing's VP corporate sustainability, and Thomas Matiz, Lenzing's global product sustainability lead, to chat about Lenzing's GHG emissions reporting, what is needed to achieve net-zero, and how Lenzing supports its customers and partners in achieving its climate goals. If you want to trace Lenzing's sustainability journey via Ecotextile Talks - do please check out our previous episodes featuring Lenzing guests: 2023 Viscose Voyages - uncovering Lenzing's plans in Indonesia Inside the minds of sustainable shoppers 2022 How Timberland and Lenzing tackled traceability How Lenzing has its sights set on a zero carbon target 2021 Why Lenzing is big on biodegradability 2020 Textile fibre traceability - is blockchain the answer? Subscribe to Ecotextile Talks podcasts on Apple, Spotify and Amazon Music or have a look around our complete podcast archive here.    

Host Philip Berman talks to Maxine Bedat, Executive Director at New Standard Institute, the official sponsor of the Fashion Environmental Accountability Act, a new bill introduced into the California State Assembly at the start of February 2025 which, if enacted, would become the first law in the country to require brands to engage in "environmental due diligence" concerning their products and supply chains.   This Californian Bill is essentially the same as the 'New York Fashion Act' which was introduced into the New York State legislature in 2022 - though it's not yet law - and which is also backed by Maxine, The New Standard Institute and a broad coalition of industry folk including influential names such as, Rothys, Everlane, Reformation, Eileen Fisher, Patagoina, ThredUp, Circ, Vestiaire Collective, Stella McCartney, Ganni, Faherty, Cotopaxi, NRDC, Sierra Club, Canopy, Trove, EVRNU, American Academy of Pediatrics. Full list at thefashionact.org Maxine talks about both bills, their purpose, what stage they have reached in the legislative process. what it's like trying to push through groundbreaking legislation in two states on opposite sides of the US, simultaneously, whether her work has become harder with President Trump in the White House, and how she manages to build broad support with politicians of all persuasions. Subscribe to Ecotextile Talks podcasts on Apple, Spotify and Amazon Music or have a look around our complete podcast archive here.    

What's the best way to Net Zero? In this episode of Ecotextile Talks, host Philip Berman explores the pathway to net zero in the textile industry with Pauline Op de Beeck, Climate Portfolio Director at the Apparel Impact Institute, and wet processing expert and Ecotextile News contributor Phil Patterson They discuss the newly released: "Low Carbon Thermal Energy Roadmap" which provides guidance on how the textile industry can reach net zero by 2040, with a particular focus on electrification and renewable energy adoption in major textile manufacturing countries. Key Topics Discussed > The thermal energy challenge in textile manufacturing, where 80% of energy consumption is thermal energy primarily generated by burning fossil fuels >The importance of electrification as the ultimate path to net zero, with proper timing being crucial >Analysis of five key textile producing countries: China, India, Vietnam, Bangladesh, and Indonesia >Forecasting when facilities should transition to electric technologies based on renewable energy availability and cost >The dangers of premature electrification before renewable energy is sufficiently available >The new industry benchmarking tool being developed to help brands and manufacturers track energy uses and emissions.    More details of the Apparel Impact Institute's Climate Solutions Portfolio grant applications open until March 31, 2025  

Host Philip Berman discusses the findings of a groundbreaking 2024 study on the problem of plastic leakage in the textile industry with one of its co-authors Dr. Jesse Daystar, Cotton Incorporated's Vice President and Chief Sustainability Officer, and Dr. Patricia Holden, Bren School of Environmental Science and Management at the University of California, Santa Barbara. We reveal just how significant the fashion industry's contribution to global plastic pollution is, explore potential solutions and discuss the broader implications for sustainability in fashion. Other studies mentioned in the podcast: The Effect of Denim Fabric as a Feedstock in Large Scale Composting of Manure/Bedding and Food Scraps Microfibers generated from the laundering of cotton, rayon and polyester based fabrics and their aquatic biodegradation Impact of dyes and finishes on the aquatic biodegradability of cotton textile fibers and microfibers released on laundering clothes  Subscribe to Ecotextile Talks podcasts on  Apple, Spotify, and Amazon Music or wherever you listen.  Or visit our  Ecotextile News website to find out more on this issue.      

Host Philip Berman explores the fascinating world of biogenic carbon storage in cotton garments with Dr. Richard Venditti, from North Carolina State University, Steve Pires from Cotton Incorporated, and Emily Graham from Carhartt. Together, they delve into the climate benefits of cotton and how it can play a crucial role in the textile industry's sustainability efforts. We cover the following topics Biogenic Carbon Storage: how cotton garments can act as temporary carbon sinks, reducing greenhouse gas emissions and mitigating climate change. Dynamic vs. Static Life Cycle Assessment: an explanation and discussion of dynamic LCAs, how they account for the timing of emissions, and how it can reveal a more accurate picture of cotton's environmental impact. Sustainability Strategies: a discussion on some of the practical ways to extend the life of cotton garments Link to the 2024 study (from the Bioresources journal) we discuss in depth in the podcast: Evaluating cotton apparel with dynamic life cycle assessment assessment: The climate benefits of temporary biogenic carbon storage  For more information about Cotton Incorporated  Find out more about our daily news website and pioneering printed magazine Ecotextile News at: www.ecotextile.com that's been reporting on environmental and social issues in fashion and textile supply chains since 2006.

In this episode, host Philip Berman sits down with Michael Schragger, Founder & Executive Director of the Sustainable Fashion Academy, to discuss the fashion industry's complex journey towards sustainability.  Fresh off the release of STICA's Progress Report from the end of 2024, Schragger gives a unique insight into the successes and challenges Scandinavian fashion companies face striving to meet climate targets, with lessons for the whole industry..  We discuss: Surprising findings from his annual survey of 55 leading Scandinavian companies working in this sector; The Sustainability Paradox - why companies struggle to align financial growth with environmental goals; The role of EU regulations in shaping corporate behavior and forcing faster change; Why circular business models are struggling to take off. Looming large over the whole conversation is the question of whether the mass fashion industry can truly redesign itself to meet climate targets, or are current models unsustainable?  Please also visit the Ecotextile News website to find out more about this issue.

Our host Philip Berman sits down with Marie-Jeanne Gaertner, project and policy officer at RREUSE (Reuse and Recycling European Union Social Enterprises) to find out why the textile reuse and recycling sector in the European Union is facing an unprecedented crisis. Gaertner says that a recent open letter to the European Commission and member states, penned by RREUSE, explains why the sector is on the brink of financial collapse, with social enterprises bearing the brunt of this turmoil. She notes how the current 'crisis', which has seen several notable business failures in 2024, is unlike any previously encountered. She claims that up to 16% of the textiles collected in some regions are simply waste that cannot be used and will need to be disposed – at a significant financial cost. She adds, "So now that there are more and more opportunities to resell products on a consumer-to-consumer basis, we observe that consumers tend to resell themselves the most valuable items and donate or throw out the non-reusable ones." What's discussed: RREUSE represents over 1,200 social enterprises across 30 countries, all dedicated to collecting, sorting, and repurposing textiles. These enterprises collected approximately 337,000 tonnes of textiles in 2023. They are now struggling with a growing influx of low-quality donations due to ultra-fast fashion. Blames the textile recycling problems on overconsumption of low quality apparel. Says impending regulation will only add fuel to the fire. Talks about required financing mechanisms to keep sector healthy to meet EU circularity goals. Find out more about our daily news website and our pioneering printed magazine Ecotextile News at: www.ecotextile.com that's been reporting on environmental and social issues in fashion and textile supply chains sicne 2006.

This episode of Ecotextile Talks explores the legal challenge facing fast fashion company Shein as it considers listing on the London Stock Exchange (LSE).  In the summer UK based charity, Stop Uyghur Genocide, asked the Financial Conduct Authority (FCA) to reject any potential request from Shein to list on the LSE.  At the moment, we don't know for sure whether Shein has submitted a request to the FCA so as we all wait, we thought that it would helpful for a lawyer to take us inside the legal case against Shein's listing on the London Stock Exchange. Not just any lawyer, but the one representing Stop Uyghur Genocide, Ricardo Gama from the UK law firm Leigh Day.  We discuss: The legal basis for opposing Shein's potential listing, focusing on the UK Modern Slavery Act and the Proceeds of Crime Act. How these laws could apply to Shein's operations, even though the company produces goods outside the UK. The alleged evidence presented to the Financial Conduct Authority (FCA) regarding forced labor in the Uyghur region and its alleged connection to Shein's supply chain. Shein's response to the allegations and correspondence from Leigh Day The potential next steps in the legal process, including the possibility of a judicial review if the Financial Conduct Authority approves any potential Shein's listing. In the interests of balance and journalistic integrity, we emailed Shein on 25th September to give it an opportunity to respond to the allegations being made in this podcast by Leigh Day, on behalf of Stop Uyghur Genocide, in particular that its supply chain allegedly features forced labour, and the consequential handling of criminal property in breach of the UK Proceeds of Crime Act. We asked Shein for either a recorded interview to include at the end of this podcast, or a written statement but as of September 30th no one from Shein had replied. In the podcast we also invited Shein to record a follow-up podcast with us, to respond to the content of this one. If you would like to read more about the, "NCA and its failure to investigate imports linked to forced labour - see this Guardian article   If you're interested in this issue, then you might like to listen to another recent edition of Ecotextile Talks entitled: "Can we trust textile factory audits in China?" which has an interview with the Executive Director of the Worker Rights Consortium, Scott Nova.    

In this episode of Ecotextile Talks, we explore the Corporate Sustainability Due Diligence Directive (CSDD). This significant new European law entered into force on 25 July 2024 and will be rolled out in phases.  Hosted by Philip Berman and featuring Alexander Kohnstamm, Executive Director of Fair Wear, this discussion sheds light on the critical need for companies to uphold human rights and environmental protections throughout their supply chains. Key questions covered include: How will the CSDD reshape human rights due diligence practices in the textile industry? What specific compliance measures must companies implement to align with this directive? In what ways is Fair Wear assisting businesses in navigating these new regulations? Alexander also shares details about Fair Wear's upcoming Human Rights Due Diligence Academy, which officially launches on October 9th. This initiative aims to equip companies with the knowledge and tools necessary for effective compliance. For further information, visit HRDDacademy.com or reach out via email at info@fairwear.org

Our host Philip Berman sits down with Claudia Kersten, managing director of the Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS) to discuss a cotton monitoring project which is literally out of this world.  GOTS is working alongside the European Space Agency (ESA) and artificial intelligence specialist Marple to monitor Indian organic cotton crops from space – using AI and satellite imagery to verify farming techniques and identify fraud.  The participants discuss how using satellite imagery and AI can distinguish between organic cotton fields from conventional ones. The project, funded by the ESA involved visiting 6,000 fields in India to collect 'ground truth' data, which was used to train an algorithm to identify organic cotton fields. The current accuracy is 80%, with plans to improve it. The initiative aims to increase organic cotton production and integrity, benefiting both farmers and consumers. Future steps include expanding to other regions, and refining the technology for higher accuracy. This accuracy is expected to improve through ongoing refinement and validation processes, involving more visual inspections and cross-checking with existing data. GOTS says that the next steps will involve connecting the market and supporting organic conversion projects.