This week we're going waaayyyyy back! All the way to my first surf trip - a high school graduation venture to Panama which would kick off a 3-summer run of Central American adventures.Some things lined up nicely, some things went terribly wrong. Listen in to hear about the rollercoaster ride. To read this note, visit: https://surfersnotebook.com/central-american-summer-pt-1-venturing-beyond-the-bubble
The lingering question of who God is plagued me for years... until I drew a line in the sand and decided enough is enough.
Why do I always seem to blow the takeoff when everyone is watching? Find out why... and how I fixed it in this week's note.To see pictures or the read the original blog post visit:https://surfersnotebook.com/uncategorized/my-set-wave-mantra/
What happens when the surf bug bites twice? A few seconds in the green room and a chance conversation with a lifer flipped my view of surfing on its head. Tune in to see how the trajectory of a surfer's life can pivot on a dime. To see pictures or the read the original blog post visit:https://surfersnotebook.com/uncategorized/falling-in-love-again-and-changing-my-mind/
Is this a battle all surfers fight? Here's my experience with the internal tug of war.To see pictures or the read the original blog post visit:https://surfersnotebook.com/uncategorized/head-vs-heart/
Since I started keeping a log of all my sessions, I've realized it's not just the wave quality or quantity that gets me stoked. How does vibe factor in? And what's the appeal in longboarding? To see pictures or the read the original blog post visit:https://surfersnotebook.com/uncategorized/the-vibe/
A strange character has me questioning whether the rising popularity of surfing is driving surfers crazy. Tune in this week for an extension of last week's coverage of So Cal surf adventures... and realities... To see pictures or the read the original blog post visit:https://surfersnotebook.com/uncategorized/beat-it-predator/
How can a challenge involving an alcoholic energy drink and bad waves lead to getting stoked? Find out what happens when "the boyz" get together for a session, in this week's note. To see pictures or the read the original blog post visit:https://surfersnotebook.com/uncategorized/going-loko/
Having surfed at some of the best waves around the world I thought I had seen it all... but nothing has compared to the relentless hustle of this surf village in Indonesia. Tune in to this week's note to see how a micro-economy can form in even the most remote surf destinations. To see pictures or the read the original blog post visit:https://surfersnotebook.com/uncategorized/the-nias-hustle/
I had chased the unicorn for what felt like forever, until one day, it all lined up. This week's note was written in the magical land of unicorns and offshore winds - Nicaragua. To see pictures or the read the original blog post visit:https://surfersnotebook.com/uncategorized/my-first-real-barrel/
I sat down immediately after a session in South Africa to write this letter home. With hair still wet and sand on my feet I felt compelled to get it out of my head and on to "paper" before I lost the feeling.To see pictures or the read the original blog post visit:https://surfersnotebook.com/uncategorized/the-rollercoaster/
This week's note: a quick life lesson I learned from traveling around the world with surfboards.To see pictures or the read the original blog post visit:https://surfersnotebook.com/uncategorized/a-lower-dose-of-bs/
It turns out, you can meet some interesting people in the desert of Morocco...Epic waves, bad impersonations, and one gnarly set - this note has it all.To see pictures or the read the original blog post visit:https://surfersnotebook.com/uncategorized/meeting-the-old-wizard/
Sometimes big risks have big rewards; Most of the time they have big consequences. How does a dice roll land in the desert of Morocco? Find out in this week's note. To see pictures or the read the original blog post visit:https://surfersnotebook.com/uncategorized/the-discovery-of-witchs-finger/
Two days ago an old dude, at least 60 years old, paddled out at dusk. It was already too dark to see sets on the horizon. Why did he do it? We'll never know, but this short note might help us make sense of it all. To see pictures or the read the original blog post visit:https://surfersnotebook.com/uncategorized/bookends/
Is it possible to get barreled in Vietnam? After several visits I still don't know what to make of surfing in the South China Sea. I've left the water feeling exalted from super fun sessions, and also dejected from total let downs. This week's episode combines a few of my notes to share the my surfing experience in Nam. To see pictures or the read the original blog post visit:https://surfersnotebook.com/uncategorized/chasing-barrels-in-vietnam/
A wetsuit is a very personal item for a surfer. If you've ever surfed cold water you know how wonderful a good one can be. What happens when you buy a wetsuit from an online vendor in Vietnam? Listen to find out in this week's note. To see pictures or the read the original blog post visit:https://surfersnotebook.com/uncategorized/small-purchase-big-mistake/
I like the early morning surf session for many reasons: less crowds, watching the sunrise, a bit of peace before the day really starts... but there's more to it. How does dawn patrol consistently change the outcome of my day? To see pictures or the read the original blog post visit:https://surfersnotebook.com/uncategorized/the-morning-calibration/
When I was living off coconut biscuits in the Philippines, I had an epiphany... this short note has only grown sweet with time. To see pictures or the read the original blog post visit:https://surfersnotebook.com/uncategorized/sugar-on-my-tongue/