Chemist Confessions

120 Episodes

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#119: Which SPF Lip Balm is Best?

2024-11-0455:42

After a nice break from sunscreens, we had some time to dabble in lip SPF products. It turns out our lip skin actually has a lot less natural protection from both sun and dryness than the rest of our body. Thus, it only makes sense that having a good lip SPF (or two) is important to have handy. We tried 12 lip SPFS of various types and various price points and share all of our findings! The taste of some of these left quite a lasting impression.

#118: Are Peptides in Skincare Worth It?

2024-10-2949:55

Today we’re going to attempt to tackle the vast landscape of peptides! It’s a big topic but sadly without a lot of clarity. So let’s nerd out with us on just what peptides are, how they work on skin, what skin concerns they’re good for, and decode a few top peptide products.

#117: Hydroquinone and Some Comparison Actives

2024-10-2232:40

After listening to this podcast long enough, you’ll probably get a sense that good testing data is sparse so we inevitably have to work with what we have! With the recent US ban of OTC hydroquinone products, it's worth noting that a notable few actives have done testing in direct comparison to hydroquinone. Though more testing is always needed, direct comparison studies are considered rare and top-tier in our books. In this episode, let’s review why hydroquinone is so prolific and discuss actives that have actually been tested in direct comparison to hydroquinone.

#116: Is Arbutin A Good Hydroquinone Alternative?

2024-10-1425:39

This is a bit overdue! Arbutin is a hyperpigmentation active with a reputation as a hydroquinone alternative. So today we’re tackling all the major questions around arbutin: Does it convert to hydroquinone on skin? Is it even a good hyperpigmentation active?

#115: Can You Actually Treat Dark Circles With Skincare?

2024-09-3034:24

It’s time for another wet blanket type episode - dark circles Just why are dark circles so hard to deal with? Do eye creams even work? We go through the data and discuss what you can actually do to treat this stubborn and complex skin concern.

#114: What's the Deal With Exosomes in Skincare?

2024-09-2438:28

We’ve put it off for long enough, today we’re jumping into the very new, very hot realm of exosomes. These vesicle structures are getting a lot of attention because they’ve been tied to: stem cells, growth factors, fibroblasts…essentially all the juicy anti-aging good stuff. In this episode, the chemists attempt to make sense of exosomes’ true purpose in skincare, share what benefits they can bring, and explain the current exosome landscape. Strap in because we get pretty nerdy here, but hopefully this episode gives you a good idea of “hot tech” and how it evolves in the skincare world.

#113: Do Acne Patches Work?

2024-09-1637:39

We're wrapping up our acne series with a deep dive on acne patches. These face stickers often get tied to some pretty enticing claims like absorbing excess sebum and rapidly healing pimples. We discuss the science behind these mystical patches, what they actually do to acne lesions, and what are their real benefits. Finally, we end on our experiences trying 5 different acne patches on the market. Enjoy!

#112: Does Any of the Plant Stuff Work for Acne?

2024-09-0938:15

Continuing our acne series, we’ve been able to delve into some solid actives with pretty juicy data behind it, but there are quite a few less validated ingredients that are pretty popular and worth a look. In this episode, we look at succinic acid, mugwort, witch hazel, and tea tree oil. Four popular plant-ish actives that have gained some traction as magical home remedies for acne breakouts. Let’s see if the data holds up shall we?

#111: How Much Benzoyl Peroxide Should You Actually Be Using?

2024-08-2643:28

When it comes to fighting acne, benzoyl peroxide has been around for so long it almost seems like it’s old-fashioned. However, because of its long history, BPO has a lot of great data and of the ingredients out there we actually have a very good understanding how it works to reduce breakouts. But are we actually using the right concentration? We dive into the research and discuss what concentrations we should all be trying to target and why.

#110: Is salicylic acid a MUST in your acne routine?

2024-08-1942:01

Salicylic acid is probably the most common active ingredient you’ll run into when putting together your acne routine. But is it actually a must have? What kind of acne can it actually treat? In this episode, we dive into a few key clinical studies that look at just what 2% salicylic acid really bring to your routine.

#109: Are Collagen Supplements a Scam?

2024-08-1243:45

One of the more popular questions we get is about collagen supplements and whether or not it’s a scam. We’d be lying if we said we haven’t been avoiding this one, but no longer! In this episode, we go through the clinical data. We discuss why it’s so hard to shop for good collagen supplements. Finally, we list our shopping tips and things to consider if you’re thinking of adding this to your beauty routine.

#108: The Best of 30 for 30 Sunscreen Challenge Pt. 2

2024-08-0535:40

After testing 30 sunscreens in 30 days, we’re finally going through our favorites! There was so much to discuss that this ended up turning into a 2 part segment. In part 2, we talked about our thoughts on baby sunscreens, international sunscreens, things we’d do differently in the future, and… pangolins? Let’s wrap the sunscreen series!

#107: The Best of 30 for 30 Sunscreen Challenge Pt. 1

2024-07-2938:01

After testing 30 sunscreens in 30 days, we’re finally going through our favorites! There was so much to discuss that this ended up turning into a 2 part segment. In part 1, we discuss what factored into our ratings and why. We then go through our “0 star” ratings and why they were so painful. Finally, we discuss our favorites for the mineral and tinted category! Hope you enjoy as we tell all in our journey to trialing another 30 sunscreens for 2024.

#106: Should You Stop Using Glycolic Acid in the Summer?

2024-07-2229:02

You probably hear us often championing glycolic acid as the gold standard of exfoliation and a main active to consider having in your routine. However, AHAs are known to cause photosensitivity. Does that means we shouldn’t use glycolic acid during summer months during higher chances of sun exposure? We discuss the data, what skin types should and shouldn’t use glycolic acid, and how to best use this ingredient during summer.

#105: Which Toners Should You Use?

2024-07-1524:08

This week we’re taking a break from skincare ingredients, and we’re talking about products. Specifically, toners! Toners will forever be a land of mystery. This category seems to always ends up in the spotlight, there are too many to choose from, and the claims can be all over the place. We decided to break down the product landscape, discuss some of the most popular toners of 2024, and weigh in on which toners we would want to use in our routine. It’s toner time!

#104: Does Tranexamic Acid Have Any Benefits for Skin?

2024-07-0832:17

When tranexamic acid started gaining popularity a few years back, it felt similar to CBD. Suddenly it seemed like every brand was using it, but there didn’t seem to be a lot of data shared on its effectiveness. In this episode, the chemists share the benefits that tranexamic acid can bring to skin, go through the testing (if any), and discuss whether or not it’s a worthy addition to your skincare routine.

#103: Should You Be Using the Azelaic Acid Derivative Instead?

2024-07-0137:26

Because of the limitations of azelaic acid, it only makes sense that azelaic acid derviative, potassium azeloyl diglycinate is on the rise! We dive into whether or not this is a good replacement for azelaic acid, what are its actual benefits, and how to use PAD in your skincare routine!

#102: Does 10% Azelaic Acid Do Anything for Skin?

2024-06-1727:23

The chemists don’t talk about this ingredient as much as they probably should but azelaic acid has a solid amount of data behind it…at the prescription level 15-20% concentration. Naturally, you have to wonder if the 10% azelaic acid products you can purchase as a cosmetic would actually do anything for skin? They dissect the benefits of azelaic acid, discuss the formulation challenges behind this active, and ultimately how they would use a 10% azelaic acid product in their routine.

#101: Do You Need an Oil Cleanser to Remove Sunscreen? A Sunscreen Update!

2024-06-1042:58

The chemists are gearing up for their 30 for 30 sunscreen challenge test! So naturally this is a great time to check up on some of the latest studies on sunscreens. We cover a large survey study on people’s sunscreen application habits (spoiler alert: it’s not great), an oil based vs water based cleanser study on sunscreen removal, a new J&J SPF50 vs SPF100 study, and an update on the ongoing studies on sunscreen’s impact on coral reef.

#100: The 100th Celebration! Chemists' (true) Confessions

2024-06-0342:48

We’ve reached the 100th Episode! This week we’re going down memory lane ranking our top 5 podcast moments and our favorite skincare science. We also decide to reveal some true chemist “confessions”. We share what popular ingredients we might not be fully on board with and even what skincare steps we forget. Time for some fun!

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Kaiya Anh