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Episodes - Climbing Gold
60 Episodes
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Last year, Alex sat down with legendary comedian and interviewer David
Letterman in front of a live audience in New York City. Buckle up for a
hilarious ride down memory lane.
Image: Mark J Franklin
If there is a common thread between the greatest rock climbing achievements
of the last few decades, it’s that cinematographer Brett Lowell was
probably filming it. In high school, Brett found himself pulled into the
world of climbing creativity and has never looked back.
Image: Pablo Durana
Nearly unknown to the greater climbing world, Hamish McArthur walked on the
mats at the Paris Olympics the epitome of an underdog. He wasn’t sure he
even wanted to be there. When the dust settled, he’d placed fifth, ahead of
legends and rising stars. Since then, Hamish upended the climbing world by
casually dispatching the world's hardest boulder problems in lightning
speed. How’d he do it? The solution was inside his mind.
Image: Jess Glassbery / Louder Than 11
Climber Melissa Arnot Reid blazed her way into the elite circle of high
altitude guides, but her ascent into rarified air came amidst deep personal
struggles that no amount of Everest summits or accolades could fix. Today,
we talk about the state of Everest, Ueli Steck and Melissa’s new book
Enough.
John Bachar may have been the Stonemasters brightest star. His audacious
free climbs and even more audacious free solos turned heads around the
globe. Sadly, John fell while free soloing in 2009. Last winter, longtime
climber and author Mark Kroese approached us with a tape marked Bachar, a
remnant of the research he did for his book Fifty Favorite Climbs. Time to
hit play.
El Cap. Free. In a day. It's an accomplishment that puts a climber in lofty
company. In 2020, Emily Harrington succeeded on Golden Gate. It was a
multi-year effort that required finding her outermost limits and letting go
of perfectionism. Now, that journey comes to the big screen with Louder
Than Eleven’s new film, Girl Climber.
Image: Louder Than Eleven
Katie Lamb has been cutting her teeth on a steady diet of some of the
country’s hardest boulders. When she became the first woman to climb V16,
she was surprised by the spotlight that came with that breakthrough and the
ensuing online drama after the problem was downgraded. Today, Katie has
climbed V16 again and her motivation has never been more in focus.
Image: Eric Bissell
Together, Jesse and Molly Dufton create one of the most unique partnerships
in rock climbing. Jesse knew two things from a young age. The feeling that
traditional climbing gave him was something that he wanted to pursue
through life and that a genetic disorder would eventually rob him of his
sight. Through the years Jesse and Molly figured a path forward through a
shared life of adventure climbing and first ascents.
Image: Jesse Dufton
Sonnie Trotter would never admit to being Canada’s best rock climber, but
his multi-decade career of cutting-edge trad climbs and nails-sport routes
certainly puts him in that conversation. In his new book, Sonnie looks back
to the people, experiences and community that defined his path into
professional climbing. Just don’t take financial advice from him.
Image credit: Paul Bride
Writer Cassidy Randall’s new book Thirty Below unearths the story of the
first all-female ascent of Denali in 1970 and reveals a deeper story of
ambition and teamwork. It’s an incredible story with complex characters. In
a sport obsessed with legends and heroics, why did the Denali Damsels
nearly fade into history?
Image credit: Margaret Young
Elite competition is a young person's game, but when 44-year-old legend
Chris Sharma witnessed climbing on the Olympic stage last summer, it lit a
fire in him, or at least a small flame. Chris undeniably changed climbing
bringing the sport into its modern era, establishing the 5.15 grade,
winning World Cups and World Championships as a teen, but an Olympics
appearance is the one thing missing. LA 2028 is definitely on his mind.
First stop– New Jersey.
Image Credit: Dan Gajda/ USA Climbing
Amity Warme first showed up in Yosemite Valley in 2019 young, scrappy and
in love with the adventurous side of our sport. What’s followed since is a
meteoric rise through the discipline of traditional and big wall free
climbing. What’s taken some of the world’s best to do over decades, Amity
has squeezed into five years. What makes Amity so special? We dig in.
Image: Felipe Nordenflycht
In 2021, Vitaliy Musiyenko closed the chapter on a years-long obsession
with a 32-mile-ridge line featuring 60 summits in the heart of the Sierra.
The Goliath Traverse is likely the longest ridge traverse ever completed on
the planet. For Vitaliy, it was part of a much larger journey that began
with the 1986 Chernobyl disaster.
Image: Vitaliy Musiyenko
In 2024, Michaela Kiersch became the first woman to climb both V15 and 5.15
putting her on climbing’s global radar. To midwest climbers and those in
the know, she was already a legend for her incredible training sessions and
ability to balance a career outside climbing. Alex and Michaela chat about
what it’s like to become a part of history, the lessons learned from losing
a parent at a young age and her incredible 2024.
Image: Jan Novak
After rising to the highest echelon of professional skiing, Cody Townsend
took a step back and embraced climbing to take him to the next chapter of
his career. Today, Cody sits on the cusp of completing an all-time goal –
climbing and skiing the 50 Classic Ski Descents of North America.
Image: Bjarne Salén & The Fifty Project
We are back with the Greatest of All Time – Janja Garnbret. For the last
decade, Janja has dominated competitive climbing, capping it off with her
second gold medal at the Olympics last summer. Where does she find the
motivation to keep improving when she’s won everything there is to win?
Image: Grega Valančič Photography
Ben Mayforth’s strength is a sight to behold. The professional
paraclimber’s social clips of campusing double digit boulder problems may
have made it into your social feed, but his story runs much deeper than any
grade or route. It’s a story of hard work, belonging and finding a path in
the world.
Image: Dudes vs Gravity
Last summer, Alex and Tommy Caldwell rode bikes from Estes Park, Colorado
to SE Alaska where they boarded a sailboat which dropped them beneath the
fabled Devil’s Thumb. Their adventure is now a film on Disney+, but a lot
of the experience got left on the cutting room floor. We sat down with
Tommy and their photographer/wingman, Taylor Shaffer, to dive deeper into
the journey.
Image: Taylor Shaffer
Tucked away in a corner of Chilean Patagonia, Valle Cochamó wasn’t going to
stay hidden forever. The soaring unclimbed granite walls instilled dreams
of first ascents in climbers. Industrialists eyed its free flowing rivers
with their potential for hydroelectric power. Conservationists hoped it
could provide a final puzzle piece. This is the story of how a coalition of
Chilean gauchos, climbers and activists fought off development efforts for
two decades. How do you make the next Yosemite? You start by buying it.
Image: Catalina Claro
5.13 at 78. That’s staggering, but the numbers don’t capture the breadth of
Jamie Logan’s climbing career, which now spans seven decades. Through every
chapter of our sport, Jamie has been a contributor from pioneering free
climbing in the 1960’s to leading design trends of the modern gym. The risk
she took in her 70’s may ultimately prove to be the most lasting pillar of
her legacy. Never be afraid of who you are.
Image: Tara Kerzhner





