Fashion Deep Dive

Come join us for soothing deep dives into fashion related news!

Creative Director Carousel Ep. 7: Redefining Tom Ford, Givenchy & Alexander McQueen

Join us as we navigate the final episode of the "creative director carousel" that's been spinning at full speed across the luxury fashion landscape. This finale episode delves into the most significant leadership changes, exploring the pivotal transitions and the bold new visions emerging from iconic houses.Tom Ford's Artistic Evolution: Discover how the house of Tom Ford is moving beyond a "Tom Ford lite" aesthetic with the appointment of Haider Ackermann. Learn about Ackermann, a true "fashion auteur" celebrated for his "poetic, romantic, and razor-sharp tailoring" and "emotional depth". We'll discuss how his arrival, praised by Mr. Ford himself, is anticipated to infuse the brand with a new layer of "intellectual and artistic depth," evolving its signature sensuality. Plus, we'll highlight Ackermann's iconic collaboration with Timothée Chalamet, detailing their "boundary-pushing red carpet moments" that redefined modern masculinity, including the unforgettable "backless halter top" and Chalamet's debut in Ackermann-for-Tom Ford at the Golden Globes.Givenchy's Return to Romance: Witness the dramatic pivot at Givenchy as Matthew M. Williams' "hardware-heavy, streetwear-inflected aesthetic" gives way to the "masterstroke" appointment of Sarah Burton. We explore Burton's unparalleled legacy at Alexander McQueen, her "exceptional craftsmanship," deep appreciation for history, and a "powerful, dark-edged romanticism". Unpack how her universally praised debut collection seamlessly blended Hubert de Givenchy's "mid-century elegance" with her own exquisite tailoring, heralding a return to "sophisticated, woman-centric design".A Historical Lens on Givenchy: We critically examine how Sarah Burton's celebrated "dark romanticism" presents a fascinating contrast to the original house codes of Hubert de Givenchy. Relive the revolutionary spirit of the founder, known for his "architectural simplicity," "effortless modernity," and groundbreaking "Les Séparables," which offered liberating, youthful designs in 1952. Discover the enduring legacy of his partnership with Audrey Hepburn, which defined "le style Givenchy" and gave the world perhaps the most famous "Little Black Dress".Alexander McQueen's Provocative New Chapter: Finally, we briefly touch upon the post-Burton era at Alexander McQueen, with Seán McGirr taking the helm. His "bold and provocative" debut collection marks a move towards a "darker, more fetishistic, and deconstructed aesthetic," signaling a "daring and uncompromising new chapter" for the house.Tune in to understand how these visionary designers are reshaping the future of luxury fashion and redefining iconic aesthetics for a new era.

09-22
12:45

Creative Director Carousel Ep. 6: New Eras at Margiela and Van Noten following Galliano and Dries's legacies - Glenn Martens and Julian Klausner

This week, we diving back into the monumental shifts shaking up two of fashion's most revered houses: Maison Margiela and Dries Van Noten. Join us as we explore the seismic departure of theatrical genius John Galliano from Maison Margiela after a transformative ten-year tenure, departing in December 2024. We'll discuss his breathtaking creativity, particularly through the "Artisanal" couture collections, and how he masterfully fused his narrative-driven design with the brand's codes, leaving an indelible mark and boosting revenue and cultural relevance. His final Spring 2024 Artisanal show was a viral phenomenon, celebrated for its "porcelain doll" makeup and captivating walks.Then, we look to the future with Glenn Martens, the highly respected Belgian designer and a graduate of the same institution as founder Martin Margiela. Martens' appointment, announced in January 2025, is seen as a return to the brand's Belgian avant-garde roots, aligning with his philosophy of deconstruction and twisting wardrobe archetypes. The industry has received this news with great excitement, viewing Martens as a "couturier" capable of building upon Galliano's success.Next, we turn to the more personal and long-planned transition at Dries Van Noten, where the legendary founder bids farewell after nearly four decades. His legacy is one of poeticism, intelligence, and unparalleled mastery of color, print, and texture, cultivated through emotionally resonant collections that eschewed fleeting trends. His final collection was the Men's Spring/Summer 2025 show.We unpack the nuanced reception to the post-Dries era, from the respectful yet reverential 'atelier collections' for Women's Spring/Summer 2025 that followed his final bow. While appreciated as a heartfelt homage, some critics felt they lacked a clear, forward-looking vision, noting "too many references spoil the broth". This contrasts with the praised official debut of new Creative Director Julian Klausner for Autumn/Winter 2025, who had joined the company in 2018 and worked closely with Van Noten. Klausner was lauded for delivering the brand's signature mix of "fantasy and restraint, but with a freer hand and bodily sensuality," reassuring the industry that the brand was ready to evolve and thrive.Finally, we ponder the tantalizing mystery of John Galliano's next act, as the industry speculates on where this master storyteller will go after his enigmatic departure from Maison Margiela, with no official announcement made yet.

09-19
16:30

Creative Director Carousel Ep. 5: Versace's New Era & Miu Miu's Creative Continuity after Donatella's bombshell retirement

In a monumental "continental shift" rocking the fashion world, this episode delves into the significant creative leadership changes at Versace and Miu Miu. We explore the historic transition at Versace, where after nearly three decades, Donatella Versace is stepping down as Chief Creative Officer, moving into the role of Chief Brand Ambassador. We'll discuss her legendary 28-year tenure, her indelible mark on fashion with iconic moments like the "Jungle Dress," and her continued influence through philanthropic endeavors and celebrity relationships.We then introduce Dario Vitale, the seasoned designer from Miu Miu, who is taking the reins as Versace's new Chief Creative Officer, effective April 1, 2025. Learn about Vitale's background, including his instrumental role in Miu Miu's recent success as Design and Image Director, and his stints at Dsquared2 and Bottega Veneta. The industry is buzzing with anticipation to see how his "whimsical and eclectic design sensibilities" will merge with Versace's "established maximalist glamour".Finally, we turn our attention to Miu Miu, where Francesca Nicoletti has been promoted to Design Director, filling the top creative position vacated by Vitale. A long-standing and integral member of the Miu Miu design team since 2010 and an alumna of Istituto Marangoni, Nicoletti is recognized as the "braccio destro," or right-hand woman, of her predecessor. Her internal promotion is seen as a strategic move to ensure creative continuity and build upon the brand's significant momentum and unique aesthetic, promising fresh energy and evolution from within. We discuss her deep understanding of the Miu Miu identity and her crucial impact on the brand's recent success in crafting its blend of irreverence and sophistication. Tune in to understand what these pivotal appointments mean for the future direction of these iconic Italian luxury houses.

09-15
11:00

Creative Director Carousel Ep. 4: Alessandro Michele for Gucci, Jonathan Anderson for Dior, but where do Kim Jones and Maria Grazia Chiuri go?

Get ready for another deep dive into the most exhilarating shake-up the fashion world has seen in years! This episode we unpack the unprecedented creative director shuffle sweeping through iconic luxury houses like Dior, Valentino, Balenciaga, and Gucci.We'll begin at the House of Dior, which has entered a transformative period with Jonathan Anderson taking the helm as its sole creative director for all lines, overseeing womenswear, menswear, and haute couture. We explore the impactful legacies of his predecessors: Maria Grazia Chiuri, who championed a feminist vision and drove commercial success during her nine-year tenure, and Kim Jones, who revolutionized Dior Men by merging high fashion with streetwear and forming iconic collaborations. Anderson, known for his experimental and innovative approach at Loewe and JW Anderson, is now poised to bring a unified creative vision to Dior.Next, we journey to Valentino, where Pierpaolo Piccioli recently departed after a remarkable 25-year tenure, eight of which he served as sole creative director, leaving behind a legacy of breathtaking haute couture and the viral 'Pink PP' collection. His exit paved the way for the highly anticipated return of Alessandro Michele, celebrated for his maximalist, eccentric, and gender-fluid aesthetic at Gucci. We discuss how Michele is expected to merge his distinctive style with Valentino's established codes of Italian glamour and couture craftsmanship.But the musical chairs don't stop there! This episode also touches on where these titans are landing next: Pierpaolo Piccioli is now the creative director at Balenciaga, succeeding Demna, who in turn has taken the creative lead at Gucci, replacing Sabato De Sarno. We also discuss the ongoing industry speculation around Kim Jones potentially heading to Burberry and Maria Grazia Chiuri's next move, with some whispers hinting at Fendi.Join us as we analyze the implications of these monumental shifts, the new creative directions taking shape, and what these appointments mean for the future of luxury fashion. It's a meaningful reset across the industry, promising a new level of creativity and coherence.

09-12
12:29

Creative Director Carousel Ep. 3: Celine & Loewe's American Revolution: Michael Rider, Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez

This episode delves into the seismic shifts within the LVMH empire, exploring the recent, high-profile creative director turnovers at two of its most significant brands: Celine and Loewe. We unpack the definitive end of Hedi Slimane's polarizing yet commercially triumphant "rock 'n' roll" era at Celine, characterized by his signature skinny silhouette and 1970s Parisian bourgeoisie aesthetic. His departure marks a potential return to the "beloved, now-mythologized, earlier era" under new American creative director Michael Rider, an alumnus of the "Old Céline" (Phoebe Philo's era). Rider's appointment is seen as a deliberate move to reconnect with a "sophisticated, clean, and intelligent approach" that prioritizes the needs of a modern woman.We also explore the monumental legacy of Jonathan Anderson at Loewe, who transformed the heritage leather goods brand into an "artistically ambitious house". His departure leaves behind a brand defined by quirky, intellectual, and craft-focused designs. Stepping into these formidable shoes are Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez, the "New York fashion darlings" behind Proenza Schouler. Their appointment promises an evolution of Loewe's art-forward identity, bringing their sophisticated, urban, and craft-focused aesthetic to the global stage.These changes highlight a significant "American fashion shift" within luxury, following the groundbreaking success of Daniel Roseberry at Schiaparelli. With American designers like Roseberry, Rider, and the Proenza Schouler duo taking the helm, we discuss how American talent is increasingly shaping the future of European luxury fashion. Tune in to understand the philosophies, legacies, and bold new directions defining these iconic houses.

09-05
14:37

Creative Director Carousel Ep. 2: Blazy's Chanel Debut After the Atelier's Triumph

Welcome to the Fashion Deep Dive. This episode, we dive into the monumental shifts rocking the luxury fashion world, focusing on the dramatic creative transitions at Bottega Veneta and, most significantly, Chanel.First, we explore Bottega Veneta's evolution from the "artistic, craft-focused vision" of Matthieu Blazy to the "understated, intellectual chic" of Louise Trotter. Blazy's impactful, albeit short, tenure was defined by "reverence for craft, movement, and a concept he called 'quiet power'," leading to cult classics like his "leather denim" trousers. His departure was seen as a "significant loss of a unique and powerful creative voice". Louise Trotter, lauded for her work at Joseph and Lacoste, is celebrated as the "queen of understated chic," bringing a "sophisticated, minimalist, and intelligently designed" aesthetic focused on "real, desirable clothes for a modern woman's wardrobe". She is expected to bring a "sharp focus to creating a sophisticated and highly functional wardrobe".Then, we turn to the most anticipated change in the industry: the end of an era at Chanel. We discuss Virginie Viard's "complex and often debated" legacy as Karl Lagerfeld's handpicked successor, primarily serving as a "custodian" of the house's codes. Despite achieving record sales during her tenure, her work often received "lukewarm" critical reception, with many feeling her collections "lacked the energy, fantasy, and sharp, forward-thinking vision of her predecessor," making her departure "long-awaited".The conversation then shifts to the blockbuster appointment of Matthieu Blazy to "the most vied-for job in the industry" at Chanel. Blazy, celebrated as "Bottega Veneta's prince of artful luxury," is known for his "stealth wealth" aesthetic, "artistic innovation," and "sublimely crafted" pieces, positioning him as a "visionary" rather than a custodian.However, Blazy faces astronomically high stakes for his October debut. Following Viard's departure, Chanel's in-house creative studio delivered a series of critically triumphant collections, including Fall 2024 Haute Couture and subsequent 2025 collections. These atelier-led creations were praised for their "lightness, precision, and renewed focus on the clothes," with many critics noting they "felt like a return to the spirit and sharpness of the Lagerfeld era". This unprecedented success acts as a "perfect 'palate cleanser'" but raises the bar immensely for Blazy. He's not just following a critically lukewarm predecessor; he's "following a collection that was a critical triumph" and inheriting a house where the in-house team has proven "they can deliver critically acclaimed fashion that resonates with the brand's DNA". The pressure is on for Blazy to demonstrate that his "singular vision is even more compelling" than the already winning in-house team, with all eyes on him to "truly launch the next great era of Chanel".

09-01
13:03

Creative Director Carousel Ep. 1: Demna, Piccioli, and Fashion's Seismic Designer Swap

Welcome to the Fashion Deep Dive. This episode we dive into the "great creative reshuffle" that has created a "new landscape of fashion houses" and shaken up the industry, highlighting the fascinating "game of musical chairs" at the highest echelons of luxury fashion. We explore the seismic shifts at Balenciaga and Gucci, specifically the dizzying three-way swap that has left many wondering about the future of these iconic houses.We unpack the departure of Demna from Balenciaga, examining his transformative decade that fused couture with streetwear and redefined the brand with his "enigmatic master of avant-garde fashion". We then track his bold move to Gucci, where he replaces Sabato De Sarno. De Sarno's brief tenure at Gucci, during which he aimed for a "quiet luxury" aesthetic, was met with a challenging reception. Demna's arrival signals a clear intent for Gucci to be "done being quiet," promising a return to a "cultural provocateur" status and an "avant-garde vision".Finally, we delve into Pierpaolo Piccioli's highly anticipated move from Valentino to Balenciaga. Piccioli is celebrated for championing "romanticism, humanism, and breathtaking beauty" with his "glorious, often voluminous gowns" and "exquisite craftsmanship". The crucial question is whether this "ex-Valentino designer can cast his 'couturier's spell' on Balenciaga's customers", marking a complete "aesthetic reset" for the house.Join us as we analyze how these interconnected moves represent a dramatic swing of the pendulum, setting the stage for a new era in luxury fashion. What do these radical appointments mean for the identities and commercial futures of Balenciaga and Gucci, and how will the industry receive these daring gambles?

08-29
11:45

The Trend in Fashion Videography Today: From Fake Perfection to Surveillance as an Aesthetic

Welcome to the Fashion Deep Dive Podcast!Today we discuss a significant transformation in fashion videography, moving away from traditional, cinema-like productions towards a more immediate and raw aesthetic, often described as "iPhoney" or Lo-Fi. This shift is attributed to the influence of social media and a collective desire for authenticity over perfection, reflecting a cultural zeitgeist where individuals are increasingly aware of being documented. The sources explain how major brands like Balenciaga, Miu Miu, and Saint Laurent masterfully employ this style to convey distinct personas of "aloof, raw coolness," and how renowned production studios and videographers achieve this calculated imperfection through specific equipment, on-set techniques, and meticulous post-production. Ultimately, this approach aims to connect with consumers by reflecting their shared experience of modern visual culture.

08-21
33:26

Fashion's Green Leap: from Kering to unexpected strides from H&M, Zara to pioneers (Patagonia), how sustainable is fashion today?

Is fashion sustainability a "non-topic" or is it quietly transforming the industry? This episode dives deep into surprising initiatives and unexpected frontrunners, alongside brands that have always led the charge, revealing how fashion is truly cleaning up its act. We unpack Kering's ambitious "Water Positive Strategy," aiming for a net positive impact on water resources by 2050 by focusing on water-positive raw materials, stewardship, and innovative Water Resilience Labs in water-stressed regions.Then, we explore LVMH's comprehensive LIFE 360 program, which is in "full swing," reporting significant reductions in greenhouse gas emissions and a push to eliminate virgin fossil-based plastics from packaging. Learn about their Creative Circularity efforts including eco-design, expanded repair services, and platforms like Nona Source for deadstock fabrics, their bold goal to regenerate five million hectares of flora and fauna habitat by 2030, and how they are decarbonizing their business by tackling direct and indirect emissions.We also confront some major surprises: H&M Group is nearing its 2025 goals ahead of schedule, close to achieving 30% recycled materials in products and making significant GHG reductions, a move that stands in "stark contrast" to recent greenwashing scandals. Similarly, Zara is on track to meet its pledge of using 100% sustainable fabrics by 2025, through initiatives like their "Join Life" collection and efforts to eliminate single-use plastics, proving that even fast-fashion giants are making "significant and measurable shifts".Finally, we look at the enduring commitment of Patagonia, the original "front runner avant la lettre," which continues to innovate by working to eliminate all virgin petroleum-based materials from its products by the end of 2025. Discover how their "Worn Wear" program remains a cornerstone of circularity, and how their revolutionary ownership transfer now directs all profits not reinvested into the business towards fighting the environmental crisis, fundamentally making their business an engine for environmental good. Tune in to understand the complex, rapidly evolving landscape of fashion sustainability today.

08-13
33:35

Summer Colors 2026: A Chromatic Escape - From Heatwave Yellow to Poolside Blue and Prune Purples

In this episode, we dive deep into the palettes shaping the season, from the blazing "Heatwave Yellow" that signifies optimism and rising temperatures, reminiscent of the sun at its peak, to the irresistibly fresh "Deep Dive Blue," like the cool water at the bottom of a pool.Discover the rich "Wine by the Pool" shades, with hibiscus and plum tones, rising as a new alternative to brown, including the sophisticated "Prune" seen at Saint Laurent and Lemaire. We'll explore how colors are not just aesthetic but also political, as seen with Willy Chavarria's "Factory Blue" and "North Korean Red," inspired by factory workers and countries led by dictators.Don't miss Jeanne Friot's powerful tribute with a tartan designed in the colors of the trans flag (baby blue, baby pink, and black), and Kartik Research's pioneering use of natural dyes from trees and plants, where shades of brown and deep reds fluctuate depending on their natural composition. We'll also touch upon the classic pink and gray from Dior, Christian Dior's favorite colors, and the refreshing matcha, caramel, and citronelle tones from AMI and Bluemarble. Get ready to know everything about the colors that will inspire you for Summer 2026!

08-08
12:10

Fashion's New Tech Frontier: Navigating Tech's Hits, Misses, and the Pursuit of Longevity

In this episode, we invite you to discover how leading fashion houses are increasingly joining forces with tech brands, a strategic move driven by the pursuit of innovation, expanded reach, and a desire to captivate new demographics. Meanwhile, tech companies gain a coveted entry into the world of luxury and style, elevating their brand image.We’ll delve into iconic collaborations like Gucci’s sophisticated partnership with Oura for a luxury smart ring, and the audacious Balenciaga x Bang & Olufsen "Speaker Bag," a true hybrid of high fashion and high-fidelity audio, known for its extreme rarity and craftsmanship. You’ll hear why Bang & Olufsen is a perpetually popular partner due to their shared philosophy of design, craftsmanship, and a commitment to longevity.We'll also examine Louis Vuitton's ambitious, multi-pronged foray into tech, from their Tambour Horizon smartwatches and conceptual "Canvas of the Future" bags to their engagement in gaming and NFTs. Crucially, we’ll tackle the big question: Do these tech-infused luxury items possess true longevity, or are they beautiful experiments with a built-in expiration date due to rapidly aging technology and non-replaceable batteries? We'll contrast this with early efforts like the Levi's x Google Project Jacquard, a pioneering smart fabric initiative that ultimately "died off".Finally, we’ll dissect the unqualified and resounding success of the Apple Watch Hermès collaboration. Launched in 2015 and still thriving today, this partnership stands as the gold standard for how to achieve a perfect symbiosis by leveraging Apple's tech and Hermès's timeless craftsmanship, ingeniously solving the longevity-vs-obsolescence problem by positioning the Hermès band as the true heirloom.Join us as we explore the fascinating landscape where what we wear and the devices we use are becoming increasingly blurred, and discover what truly makes a fashion-tech collaboration a lasting success.

08-06
14:32

Beyond the Bag: How Luxury Brands Use Podcasts to Sell Ideas, Not Just Products

In this episode, we delve into why luxury brands are increasingly embracing podcasts, despite the medium's non-visual nature. This strategic shift is driven by a desire to connect with their audience on a deeper, more intimate level. Podcasts offer unique advantages like frequency, as episodes are often automatically downloaded, and intimacy, allowing listeners to delve into the provenance and operations of brands. Unlike broad social media platforms, podcasts target a specific demographic that is better educated, more affluent, and expresses a greater interest in culture – precisely the audience luxury brands crave. This move also reflects a modern extension of these brands' historical role as "rich storytellers", offering an opportunity to showcase a less commercial side and engage with broader cultural topics, appealing to audiences experiencing "screen fatigue".Instead of merely showcasing products, these podcasts aim to sell ideas and cultivate a sense of belonging to a shared cultural universe. Common themes and trends we'll explore across these audio series include.Join us as we uncover how luxury brands are using this audio medium to foster a rich, intellectual, and emotional connection with an audience eager for content that goes beyond the bag!

07-30
21:06

Vaccarello's Saint Laurent SS26 Show and Cha Eun-wo

Welcome! In this episode, we dive deep into Anthony Vaccarello's latest menswear collection for Saint Laurent, unveiled for Summer 2026. Described by Vaccarello as evoking a "suspended moment" where "ambiguity becomes elegance" and focusing on "continuity" rather than mere homage or memory, this collection certainly sparked conversation.From its distinct 1980s vibe, drawing comparisons to figures like Martin Fry from ABC, David Bowie, Andrew McCarthy, and Duran Duran, to its signature silhouettes featuring "extended shoulders" and "cinched waists", the collection aimed for a "poetic contradiction: structured yet breathable, nostalgic yet futuristic". The "exquisite colour palette" was highlighted as a "masterclass in balance—soft, sophisticated, and utterly perfect for the season". Vaccarello also notably brought back "the return of the tie" as a "power piece" and challenged seasonality with "turtlenecks in summer".However, the public's response was as diverse as the collection itself. Many viewers expressed strong approval, declaring "Love this", "Bravo", and calling the show "Absolutely stunning" and "Magnifique". Conversely, a significant portion found the collection "Monotono", "Retrospective depression", "Decepcionante e innecesario", "Noia mortale", and even "Boring uninspiring", with some criticizing the repetition of looks and the oversized shoulder pads.Join us as we explore the multifaceted reactions to this Saint Laurent show, touching on its unique "clinamen" installation featuring porcelain bowls, the noted musical direction by SebastiAn, and the overwhelming attention given to Cha Eun-woo, frequently hailed as the "highlight" and "best ambassador" for the brand.

07-28
24:33

Daniel Roseberry Did It Again: Turning Schiaparelli Archives Into Avant-Garde In 2025

Join us as we dissect Daniel Roseberry's latest triumph: the Schiaparelli Fall/Winter 2025-26 Haute Couture collection! Staged at the opulent Petit Palais, this "Back to the Future" collection sees Roseberry masterfully invert archives to make them look futuristic. Discover how a palette stripped entirely to black-and-white reveals dazzling metallic surface effects, and how the show unfolds as a surrealist trompe l'oeil. From new, dramatic silhouettes that define the waist and hips to the bold reinterpretation of Elsa Schiaparelli's iconic pieces, this episode explores how Roseberry's vision continues the house's legacy of challenging what fashion can be, delivering a collection that is both a cinematic study in contrasts and a fearless testament to reinvention.

07-25
10:52

Glenn Martens Shook The Internet with Maison Margiela's Haute Couture Fall Winter 2025/2026 Paris Runway Show

Glenn Martens made an unforgettable debut as creative director for Maison Margiela's Haute Couture Fall Winter 2025/2026 collection in Paris, a show that truly "shook" and "captivated" the internet. Martens' first collection for the iconic brand was widely described as "chilling and dystopian and beautiful", establishing a tone that was both gothic, dark, and gritty, even evoking a "silent hell horror slasher" vibe.The collection showcased extreme silhouettes, frequently veiled or incorporating tantalizing plastic/PVC elements that covered but still revealed the clothing. A significant theme was the post-apocalyptic salvaging of materials, creating new forms from decay and discarded items, reflecting a deep engagement with concepts of time, mortality, and preservation. Martens demonstrated masterful manipulation of textiles and rich textures, exploring the destruction of fabric to its rebirth. Models wore face coverings, a signature element invented by Martin Margiela himself to keep the focus solely on the clothes, enhancing the avant-garde fantasy of the collection.Overall, the show was hailed as an "incredible debut", seen as a powerful return to the Maison’s roots while also honoring the legacies of both Martin Margiela and John Galliano. Many observers considered it an "absolute art of fashion" and "this is couture".

07-23
13:23

Demna's Balenciaga Farewell: The Grand Finale

Join us for an in-depth look at Demna's 54th and final Balenciaga Couture Collection, a "love letter to Paris and Balenciaga" before his departure to Gucci. This collection serves as a retrospective of his decade-long tenure, emphasizing his mastery of architectural yet modern couture techniques. We delve into key elements like the reinterpreted, soft, and structured corset, which served as a guiding principle, and the distinctive Neapolitan tailoring, known for its comfort and lightness, modeled even on a bodybuilder's physique to showcase its unique drape.Discover how Demna consistently drew inspiration from Balenciaga's legacy while infusing his personal style, pioneering menswear in the couture salon, and reimagining everyday items like jeans and puffer jackets as haute couture. The episode also explores the significance of his encounter with Cristobal Balenciaga’s fitting model, Danielle Slavik, which validated his place at the house. We'll discuss Demna's profound impact on fashion and culture, his innovative use of the runway, and the diverse community reactions to his bittersweet farewell.

07-21
07:48

Noir Séduisant: Reactions to Armani's Elegant Black Couture

Explore Giorgio Armani Privé's Fall/Winter 2025-26 haute couture collection, 'Noir Séduisant,' a dazzling display where black is re-imagined with unparalleled elegance and sophisticated allure. Discover how Armani transforms this timeless shade into a language of contrasts, making it shimmer with luminous textures and sculptural silhouettes that embody both refined discipline and seductive charm. The collection presents a "refined expression of contrasts," exploring the "sensual architecture of black" through elements like velvet and metallic silks, which acquire a "particular luminosity". Silhouettes were described as "sleek and elongated," at times showcasing "dramatic volume," yet always impeccably tailored. This collection is a masterful example of haute couture, where the designer's "obsession with refinement borders on frenzy".

07-18
09:18

D&G's Eternal City's Runway: The Divisive Roman 2025 Alta Sartoria Spectacle

Step onto the ancient stages of Rome's Foro Romano and Castel Sant'Angelo for Dolce & Gabbana's Alta Sartoria show. While many lauded the collection as an "exquisite and opulent visual delight" with "unparalleled craftsmanship" and "pure art", the spectacle also ignited fury and strong criticism. Viewers found the ecclesiastical themes "blasphemous and insensitive" and the private use of public monuments "clownish," leaving "catwalk residues". Dive into the show that was simultaneously described as "a dream come true" and a "horror movie".

07-16
09:54

Prada SS26: "A Change of Tone" or Generic Luxury's New Low?

Join us as we dissect Prada's Spring/Summer 2026 menswear collection, "A Change of Tone," a show that promised a radical shift from "overt power dressing toward something more introspective and elemental". Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons aimed for "calm, clarity and a sense of natural ease", seeking to "dismantle traditional codes of masculinity through subtle disruption" and even "resist the algorithm".But did their vision land, or did it sink to a "Generic Luxury's New Low"? We explore the overwhelmingly negative public reaction, where critics and commentators called the collection "boring," "nothing new", and even the "UGLIEST COLLECTION EVER!". From "high-cut shorts" compared to "diapers" to "raffia hats shaped like inverted flowerpots" derided as "lampshades from TJ Maxx", many found the "non-conformist harmonies" chaotic and unwearable.We also delve into the severe plagiarism claims surrounding the collection's footwear. Was this collection a creative misstep or a testament to the dangers of cultural appropriation in high fashion? Tune in!

07-14
11:55

Chanel FW25/26: Last Karl sans Karl Effort Before October Creative Director shift?

Welcome to our episode dissecting the Chanel Fall-Winter 2025/26 Haute Couture show! While the collection featured an autumnal palette and reinvented tweed in a setting reminiscent of early haute couture salons, the online community delivered a mixed and often passionate verdict.Join us as we unpack the diverse impressions, exploring why many viewers found the collection "absolutely beautiful" and "genius", praising its romance and elegance, while others felt it was "dull, unimaginative, and drab", "boring", or even "horrible".We'll delve into the constant comparisons to Karl Lagerfeld's era, with many commenters expressing how much his "genius" is missed and questioning if the show lacked his thematic innovation. We'll also examine the pervasive debate: was this truly "Haute Couture," or did it lean more towards "Pret a Porter" or "Haute Ready To Wear"?Finally, we'll discuss the undeniable 'Wang Yibo effect', as his appearance generated significant fan excitement and praise, with some even suggesting it diverted attention from critiques of the collection itself. Tune in as we dissect all the comments and impressions from Chanel's latest show!

07-11
10:32

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