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All the best of the Parisian catwalks and a behind-the-scenes look at the big names in Haute couture. Friday at 11:20am Paris time.
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Luxury fashion is big business. To stay relevant, big luxury houses and independent labels alike know to constantly refresh their communication strategies. Celebrity endorsement still holds enormous sway, but the clothes themselves need to tell a story. Today, that story is increasingly one of liberté, égalité and fraternité! For proof, look no further than the latest collections from Louis Vuitton Homme, Jeanne Friot, Imane Ayissi and Yohji Yamamoto.
1At more than 80 years old, Yohji Yamamoto still enjoys reassembling fabric like a child. At Issey Miyake, Satoshi Kondo offers a collection inspired by traditional Japanese papermaking. The Franco-Japanese designer Tatiana Quard creates silhouettes with intersecting tubes and lines. This as the Togo International Fashion Festival hosts its second-ever foreign edition. In the 1980s, Paris welcomed a new generation of Japanese designers, propelling Japanese fashion onto the global stage. Is the same thing now happening with Africa?
Fashion's avant garde is at its most creative when it looks to the outside world for inspiration. For next summer's ready-to wear-looks, Victor Weinsanto, responsible for the daring looks we saw at the Paris Olympics opening ceremony, pays tribute to drag queens. Vincent Pressiat and Kevin Germanier, an upcycling evangelist who oversaw the closing ceremony costumes, embrace a similar celebratory aesthetic. Plus we meet Swedish designer Ellen Hodakova Larsson, the latest winner of the LVMH prize.
A celebration of the body, dance, art and sport! At Dior, Maria Grazia Chiuri installs Italian archer-artist Sagg Napoli in a long glass cage. Her collection is an ode to the Amazons, a reference to the designs created by Christian Dior in the 1950s. For his “Impro” collection, designer Alain Paul unleashes the bodies of male and female dancers on the stage of the Théâtre du Châtelet. Last but not least, Magda Butrym awakens and reveals Polish fashion in an understated presentation. FRANCE 24 takes you to Paris Fashion Week.
At the Rodin Museum Dior presents its latest collection against a décor comprised of mosaics by the New York-based feminist artist Faith Ringgold. At the Salle Pleyel, Stéphane Rolland celebrates the poetry of Jacques Prévert and Brassaï, while at the Palais de Tokyo Japanese couturier Yuima Nakazato works with Belgian choreographer Sidi Larbi Cherkaoui. Couture may officially be considered an applied art, rather than fine art, but it nonetheless has the power to elicit intense emotions.
Can fashion transform reality, or is it more a question of how the real world influences fashion? Dior's response lies in a deeply feminist collection, inspired by the Swinging Sixties, when Marc Bohan was at the helm of the label. South African brand Maxhosa resurrects ancient Xhosa motifs. Mossi, through his clothes and fashion school in the eastern Paris suburbs, hopes to give disenfranchised young people a dream to aim for. All are searching for the holy grail: fashion that's both beautiful and meaningful.
At the campus of the French Fashion Institute, 27 design students from 13 different countries are gearing up to present their year's work before a highly influential audience. The stakes are high: these students are poised to compete with fellow graduates from the prestigious Central Saint Martins school in London. But there's no denying that France still plays an outsized role on the international stage when it comes to fashion, as evidenced by the likes of designers Weinsanto, Pressiat and Alain Paul. FRANCE 24 went to check out their ready-to-wear shows.
Stella McCartney, Marine Serre and Lilia Litkovska are three designers united in their belief that fashion, a notoriously polluting industry that often encourages excessive consumption, can itself be part of the solution. Through their latest ready-to-wear collections for next autumn and winter they showcase more sustainable modes of production, and advocate for fashion that has both style and heart. FRANCE 24 went to check out their Paris shows.
What exactly goes on in designers’ heads? Wim Wenders claims that Yohji Yamamoto has the power to heal people without the need for a therapist’s chair. Meanwhile Jeanne Friot delves into her own lesbian love story. Stéphane Rolland invites students from two Paris fashions schools on stage, as his collection questions the relationship between East and West. And Julien Fournié embraces the Hitchcock heroine aesthetic to bring down the patriarchy.
Haute couture represents the apotheosis of fashion. Thousands of hours of work can go into a single item, destined to be worn just once. Couture offers a window into a multi-billion-euro industry. But it's also a pillar of French soft power, which was perfectly expressed this year at Dior, Imane Ayissi, Sara Chraïbi and Simone Rocha for Jean Paul Gaultier. FRANCE 24 takes you to check out the runway shows.
Stella McCartney, Laurence Airline, Vaillant Studio and Litkovska are four fashion labels founded and run by women. Inspired by a desire to always strive for better, these designers propose solutions to the biggest challenges facing fashion today – everything from overconsumption and textile pollution to convoluted supply chains. All four women know that, at its best, fashion can also be used as a weapon for good. FRANCE 24 went to meet them and check out their latest ready-to-wear shows in Paris.
Japanese stylists have been making their mark on the Paris fashion scene since the 1980s, and continue to prove their mastery of the art of merging form and movement. Yohji Yamamoto, Yusuke Takahashi for CFCL, Maiko Kurogouchi and Satoshi Kondo for Issey Miyake – all these designers have a knack for taking the pulse of the planet, and, in turn, proposing new ways of dressing. We went to meet them in this edition of Fashion.
Togo's International Fashion Festival (FIMO), which recently celebrated its tenth anniversary in Lomé, has organised a catwalk show in Paris to promote African fashion. Jacques Logoh, FIMO's founder, is an outspoken advocate of fashion that's designed and produced on the African continent. A recent UNESCO report says that Africa is on course to be the world's next major fashion hub – on the condition that the industry receives sufficient state support. But that's by no means guaranteed. We take a closer look.
In this edition we meet three up-and-coming fashion designers. Victor Weinsanto studied fashion in Paris before going on to work with Jean-Paul Gaultier. He later went on to found his own exuberant label, this year inviting his drag queen friends to model his latest collection. Meanwhile, Kevin Germanier wants to break with the bad habits of the past: he loves upcycling and breathing new life into old fabric. For Alain Paul, meanwhile, fashion is the work of marrying choreography and clothing to the human body.
"Ressusciter la rose" (Revive the rose) is an original musical tribute, a marriage of fashion, music and design, to celebrate the centenary of the Villa Noailles. This collection of Cubist-inspired buildings in the south of France was designed in the 1930s by architect Robert Mallet-Stevens. It was commissioned by an iconic couple: Charles and Marie-Laure de Noailles. The villa quickly became the go-to meeting place for the French avant-garde. So what exactly is the couple's legacy? We take a closer look in this edition of Fashion.
"Woman is an active subject of the historical process and cannot be confined to being the object of desire of patriarchy." That was the strident slogan written in letters on the wall of Dior's recent show, where creative director Maria Grazia Chiuri leant into the historically fraught image of the witch. The feminist fight was also at the heart of the offering from Valériane Venance's young label Indépendantes de Cœur, where a cage motif was central. The model within is entirely naked, but simultaneously protected.
For their summer 2024 menswear collections, not one but two French designers have sought inspiration in literature. Louis-Gabriel Nouchi turned to Christopher Isherwood's "A Single Man", while Jeanne Friot dived into "The Little Mermaid", both books that explore the complexities and the often-repressed desires of the queer community. We also meet Mark Bryan, a robotics engineer who loves subverting the sartorial status quo by wearing skirts and heels in his daily life.
For his next film, "Finalement" ("Finally"), French director Claude Lelouch places his characters at the heart of a fashion show. The collection in question belongs to Parisian couturier Stéphane Rolland, who reveals his haute couture 2023/2024 winter offering on the grand staircase of the Paris Opera. The event pays homage to opera icon Maria Callas, and recreates the star’s “grande nuit de l’Opéra” that took place there in 1958. Lelouch’s actors, who perform in the midst of a live, real-world fashion show, only have one chance to get it right.
July 2023 saw the third edition of a fashion competition in Paris called Africa Fashion Up. It aims to give a platform to young, up-and-coming African talent. Five designers from across the continent presented their collections at the Musée du Quai Branly, as they celebrated local craftsmanship with a global appeal. The winner, Aristide Loua, is an Ivorian who lived in France before returning to his home country, where he spent two years reacclimatising before embracing fashion. FRANCE 24 went to meet him and the other designers.
Haute Couture is part of French soft power: creating thousands of jobs and huge profits, a world away from a dramatic news cycle. This season's Paris Fashion Week was no exception. Dior's show saw Maria Grazia Chiuri reinventing the pleats of ancient Greece, while Iris van Herpen experimented with new shapes to allow movement. In their new collections, the two fashion houses are creating an ode to lightness – perhaps an antidote to our turbulent times?
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