Hairspring

Erik & Max take a listener question to the extreme: how do you go about learning in watches? Where should you be pulling information from: mainstream media, retailers, auction houses, or even forums? This episode is a deep dive on how to structure learning, or at least how one might approach it. Also, has Gronefeld lost it with the Manueel? Plus, what does the most boring man in the world wear? Links Mentioned: Gronefeld’s Grone Manueel: https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/intro-gronefeld-brothers-grone-manueel-one https://www.instagram.com/p/DB-3DUDAOSx/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link&igsh=MzRlODBiNWFlZA== Single-Model Sites: https://explorer1016.com https://gmtmaster1675.com Revolution’s Mentioned: https://revolutionwatch.com/the-complete-guide-to-patek-philippe-vintage-chronographs/ PCC on Hodinkee in 2014: https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/understanding-the-entire-lineage-of-patek-philippe-perpetual Langepedia (It’s Alp, not Alf sorry) https://langepedia.com Retail-Driver Journalism: https://www.acollectedman.com/blogs/journal/the-story-of-early-f-p-journe https://www.phillips.com/article/120822636/who-is-philippe-dufour-guide-simplicity-duality-sonnerie https://www.phillips.com/article/135703213/vacheron-constantin-mercator-history-guide 43031: https://www.watchbrotherslondon.com/articles/reference-talk-vacheron-constantin-automatic-quantieme-perpetual-ref-43031-and-ref-43032 Ingenieur: https://goldammer.me/blogs/articles/reference-guide-iwc-ingenieur-sl?srsltid=AfmBOoqy9cCbuKT8nVnU1PGcgsZRwTVZx9EVHhNMTgiBY8as1XQWAn5j Octa Chronographe: https://watchesbysjx.com/2022/02/guide-fp-journe-octa-chronographe-watch4moi.html Rescapement: https://www.rescapement.com/blog/tag/Cartier Only Wrist: https://www.rolex.com/en-us/watches/datejust/m126334-0001 https://bulangandsons.com/products/rolex-explorer-14270-black-out-silver-print-w2987 https://www.longines.com/en-us https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/ftc-takes-major-action-against-shinola-demands-where-american-is-made-slogan-to-be-dropped-immediately

You asked, here are the answers. This week, Erik & Max read out and discuss your blistering hot takes, sourced from Instagram. The conversation could not be more varied, from snowflake vs Mercedes to 2499 vs 3970 including stops at Zenith’s 3019, bund straps, and ‘Should full rotors even have display casebooks?’ It’s all here, with an Only Wrist for an art thief.  Links Mentioned: Snowcone Hand on 76100: https://hairspring.com/finds/76100-snowcone-tudor-submariner/ Snowflake Hand on an MN: https://hairspring.com/exclusives/tudor/9401-0-marine-nationale-submariner-steel/ Full Rotors that Deserve Sapphire: https://www.alange-soehne.com/us-en/timepieces/saxonia/saxonia-automatic/saxonia-automatic-in-950-platinum-380-027 https://hairspring.com/exclusives/vacheron-constantin/4300v-overseas-ultra-thin-perpetual-calendar-skeleton-pink-gold/ Zenith 3019: https://hairspring.com/exclusives/zenith/a386-el-primero-steel/ https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/zenith-defy-inventor-introducing Moser’s Sense of Humor: https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/h-moser-retracts-the-swiss-icons-watch https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/h-moser-swiss-alp-vantablack-watch-hands-on https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/h-moser-swiss-mad-watch-swiss-cheese-limited-edition-venturer-introducing Thierry Stern: https://www.screwdowncrown.com/p/patek-philippe-cubitus-criticism-stern-response Jaeger-Lecoultre: https://hairspring.com/finds/214-3-62-jaeger-lecoultre-reverso-metiers-tribute-to-ferdinand-hodler/ https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-jaeger-lecoultre-reverso-tribute-chronograph-2 Fagliano History: https://monochrome-watches.com/meet-the-makers-casa-fagliano-boot-maker-and-strap-maker-for-jaeger-lecoultre/ Gerald Genoa’s Finnissimo: https://quillandpad.com/2022/12/06/bulgari-by-gerald-genta-octo-quadri-retro-chronograph-from-2011-embodying-the-past-and-a-possible-future-of-a-once-imperious-haute-horlogerie-leader/ Grand Sport Tourbillon: https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/laurent-ferrier-tourbillon-grand-sport-introducing Bund Straps: https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/see-paul-newmans-rolex-daytona-in-a-whole-new-light-in-the-last-movie-stars https://www.rescapement.com/blog/found-nina-rindts-universal-geneve-nina-rindt Only Wrist: https://hairspring.com/finds/3705-iwc-ceramic-flieger-chronograph/ https://www.fpjourne.com/en/collection/only-watch-timepieces/chronographe-monopoussoir-rattrapante-bleu-only-watch-2017 https://watchesbysjx.com/2024/05/fp-journe-chronometre-furtif-bleu-only-watch-2024-review.html

Much as they shy away from topical events, Erik & Max have to ask the obvious this week—but perhaps not in the way you think. While the conversation does come to rest on the Cubitus, this week’s chat is centered around chronicling the last two decades of slow and steady decline at one of the world’s greatest watchmaking houses. It’s not a roast; it’s a plea. From machining marks left bare on the calibre 324 to calibre 31-260 avoiding interior angles like Lange avoids exuberance, it’s all here. Plus, what should a great designer at Chanel wear to mark a success?  Links Mentioned: Initial Discontinuation of the 5711 in 2021: https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/patek-philippe-ref-5711-nautilus-has-been-discontinued 2008 Departure from the Geneva Seal: https://www.watchtime.com/wristwatch-industry-news/industry/patek-philippe-create-quality-seal/ https://quillandpad.com/2018/07/07/the-geneva-seal-is-it-really-a-big-deal-archive/ https://www.watchprosite.com/horological-meandering/this-has-been-discussed-at-length-on-the-canadian-forum-so-i-ll-repost-some-of-it-here-/17.1421081.13055676/ https://www.41watch.com/en/blog/patek-philippe-nautilus-5711-geneva-patek-seal-n62 Top of Catalogue Repeaters: https://collectability.com/product/patek-philippe-white-gold-minute-repeating-wristwatch-ref-5078g-001/ High vs Low Catalogue Finish: https://www.watchprosite.com/patek-philippe/finish-on-standard-vs-high-end-patek-movements/11.1240336.10258681/ Calibre 324 Issues: https://www.watchprosite.com/patek-philippe/no-problem-with-size-but-with-finishing-and-overuse--/11.847583.5750998/ https://www.watchprosite.com/patek-philippe/when-did-patek-finish-quality-change--moderator-edit-it-hasn-t-changed-/11.1555431.15271751/ Calibre 31-260 PS QL: https://www.watchprosite.com/horological-meandering/an-observation-regarding-patek-31-260-ps-ql/17.1421081.13055496/ 5303 vs 3939 Calibres (Repeater with Calibre not made to case): https://hairspring.com/finds/5303r-patek-philippe-minute-repeater/ https://www.phillips.com/detail/patek-philippe/CH080221/40 (the true OG Tourbillon Repeater) Strategy and Positioning: Interview: https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/patek-philippe-boss-thierry-stern-on-ukraine-rolex-his-succession-plan-his-personal-collection-and-y 1938P Repeater with Face of Philippe Stern on Dial: https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-30-piece-limited-series-patek-philippe-minute-repeater-alarm-ref-1938p-in-honor-of-philippe-ster Square 222:  https://hairspring.com/finds/46004-vacheron-constantin-square-222/ Cubitus: https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/introducing-patek-philippe-cubitus-collection Only Wrist: https://hairspring.com/exclusives/laurent-ferrier/galet-classic-micro-rotor-for-hodinkee-titanium/ https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-a-lange-and-sohne-1815-rattrapante-now-in-platinum

Erik & Max have a surprisingly deep conversation around some devious watch-based would you rather questions. Plus, what do we make of the WoS Hodinkee move? Independent vs modern is addressed, LF vs Journe, and many other topics. This was intended to be quite unserious but it wound up trending that way. Finally, what should an English rock musician who appreciates US culture wear?  Links Mentioned: Hodinkee to WoS: https://www.nytimes.com/2024/10/04/fashion/hodinkee-sale-watches-of-switzerland.html WYR: Tom Brady’s Collection: https://www.gq.com/story/watches-of-the-week-10-12-24 Coatian Tennis Player Donna Vekić wears Eleganté: https://x.com/GQMagazine/status/1677709192134524929 IWC Gloves: https://timeandtidewatches.com/f1-movie-iwc-lewis-hamilton-brad-pitt-pop-culture/ Aquanaut: https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/patek-philippe-releases-a-rainbow-aquanaut-luce-minute-repeater-for-ladies Aquanaut 5063 Set Dial: https://www.watchprosite.com/patek-philippe/randomly--when-you-thought-you-have-seen-it-all--/11.1387591.12460026/ Only Wrist: https://hairspring.com/exclusives/rolex/1675-gilt-exclamation-dial-gmt-master-steel/ https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/introducing-jn-shapiro-resurgence https://hairspring.com/finds/tiffany-dial-6263-rolex-daytona-in-14k-yellow-gold/ https://goldammer.me/blogs/articles/valjoux-lecoultre-us-chronograph-guide

Erik & Max are attempting the least-searchable list ever: what are the most un-iconic watches of all time? We all hate browsing listings and auctions only to see iconic watch after iconic watch. It’s meaningless as an adjective. This week’s episode pokes fun at the phrase by finding great watches that no one could possibly call iconic, alternative that are better just not definitely not icons. Erik & Max even dare here to ask what the first Daytona was. Discussion ranges from Phidias to Flageollet and even JLC’s likeness to Lange. Plus, an only wrist for sommelier.  Links Mentioned: Awful Day-Date: https://onlineonly.christies.com/s/watches-online-dubai-edit/rolex-day-date-ref-128459tbr-spectacular-gold-diamond-set-wristwatch-20/221019 The Least Iconic Watches: Lange 1: https://hairspring.com/finds/fp-journe-octa-reserve-de-marche-straight-line/ https://hairspring.com/exclusives/a-lange-sohne/401-026-1815-chronograph-first-generation-white-gold/ Tank: https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/panthere-de-cartier-now-comes-in-extra-large https://www.analogshift.com/products/cartier-baignoire-s-as09602 https://thekeystone.com/products/iwc-platinum-novcento-perpetual-calendar-ref-3546?srsltid=AfmBOorzlsTGdX6RY5TAPqg9RWHEy-1COqoQdTwzF3ulGCi53oxuAI1F https://www.the1916company.com/blog/the-audemars-piguet-edward-piguet-perpetual-calendar.html https://hairspring.com/finds/jaeger-lecoultre-tank-6129-21/ Daytona: https://hairspring.com/finds/paul-newman-6239-rolex-daytona/ https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/understanding-the-omega-speedmaster-professional https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/reference-points-tag-heuer-carrera https://hairspring.com/finds/885103-01-evil-nina-universal-geneve-compax/ Reverso: https://hairspring.com/exclusives/cartier/2499c-cpcp-tank-basculante-yellow-gold/ https://hairspring.com/exclusives/de-bethune/db-kind-of-two-jumping-gmt-titanium/ https://hairspring.com/finds/270-2-69-jaeger-lecoultre-reverso-chronographe-retrograde/ Meeting Denis Flageollet:  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Bv-jEyvfJIE Royal Oak: https://ineichen.com/auctions/timed-71/107/ https://us.arbitro.shop/products/vacheron-constantin-phidias-49002-yg-chronograph-white https://thekeystone.com/products/vacheron-contantin-platinum-333-watch?srsltid=AfmBOoosXOqlwV3XflsvZpeRpc9LqGNVkmtyPGFoO35FAJh1pFWUD79Y https://hairspring.com/finds/2215-vacheron-constantin-royal-chronometer/ https://www.watchbrotherslondon.com/articles/reference-talk-vacheron-constantin-overseas-1st-generation-ref-42040-42042-and-ref-42050-42052 https://hairspring.com/exclusives/vacheron-constantin/7910v-everest-overseas-dual-time-titanium/ https://hairspring.com/exclusives/vacheron-constantin/4300v-overseas-ultra-thin-perpetual-calendar-skeleton-pink-gold/ Sub: https://hairspring.com/finds/blancpain-fifty-fathoms-rotomatic/ https://hairspring.com/exclusives/omega/2913-3-meister-dial-seamaster-300-steel/ Calatrava: https://hairspring.com/exclusives/a-lange-sohne/216-027-stealth-saxonia-boutique-edition-white-gold/ https://hairspring.com/finds/onyx-dial-16018-rolex-datejust/ Perpetual Calendar Chronograph: https://hairspring.com/exclusives/patek-philippe/5270r-perpetual-calendar-chronograph-pink-gold/ https://hairspring.com/finds/dore-dial-patek-philippe-3940/ https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/intro-datograph-perpetual-tourbillon-honeygold-lumen Datejust: https://hairspring.com/finds/value-prop-7996-tudor-oysterdate-ranger/ https://goldammer.me/blogs/articles/tudor-ranger-ii-oysterquartz-inspiration https://shop.hodinkee.com/products/cricket-2 Only Wrist: https://hairspring.com/finds/2508-patek-philippe-calatrava/ https://hairspring.com/finds/piece-unique-ovitz-patek-philippe-3940r/

Erik & Max finally sync up with Sylvain Berneron to discuss his watches and just why they're being received so distinctly to anything else in the independent space right now. However, the chat doesn't just revolve around Berneron the brand, but Sylvain as a collector, the difficulty of branching out on your own, motorcycles, mid-century Patek, and, yes, even that fracas at Geneva Watch Days. This is the most casual, wide-ranging discussion with Sylvain you'll find, we hope you enjoy. Links Mentioned: https://www.berneron.ch/collections Asymmetrical Observatory Seiko Calibres: https://thegrandseikoguy.substack.com/p/seikos-astronomical-observatory-chronometer Andrew Grima Omega: https://bulangandsons.com/blogs/watch-talks/the-andrew-grima-omega-years Gilbert Albert Patek Philippe: https://collectability.com/learn/gilbert-albert-the-genius-designer-who-changed-the-face-of-watchmaking/ The Crash: https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/how-the-cartier-crash-became-the-most-important-vintage-watch-of-2021 Desmosedici: https://www.ducati.com/us/en/heritage/bikes/desmosedici-rr Mirage 34 Stone Dial https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/hands-on-berneron-mirage-34mm-realizes-its-creators-uncompromising-vision Background For the Fracas: https://www.screwdowncrown.com/p/sylvain-supposedly-snapped 3 Questions:  https://langepedia.com/encyclopedia/lange-1815/1815-up-down/ https://www.acollectedman.com/blogs/journal/patek-philippe-3940 https://mrwatchley.com/products/patek-philippe-calatrava-96-steel-breguet-numerals https://www.alange-soehne.com/ww-en/timepieces/1815/1815-updown/1815-updown-in-18-carat-white-gold-221-027 https://www.phillips.com/detail/patek-philippe/CH080322/53 https://www.phillips.com/detail/patek-philippe/CH080224/175 https://www.phillips.com/detail/vacheron-constantin/CH080215/201 Only Wrist: https://hairspring.com/finds/serpico-y-laino-dial-6605-rolex-datejust-ovettone-pink-gold/ https://langepedia.com/encyclopedia/lange-1815/ https://www.phillips.com/detail/vacheron-constantin/HK080119/991

Erik & Max are reviving a fan favorite segment: watches that aren’t widely produced, but also have zero attention being shined their way. There are watches everyone loves. Then there are watches that more people should, if only they were more known. This episode is about the latter category. Many, many obscure models here to go researching and learning on. Plus, what should an F-22 pilot wear while flying? Links Mentioned: https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-cartier-tank-cintree Patek Philippe 5050: https://www.phillips.com/detail/patek-philippe/CH080122/241 Patek Philippe 5059: https://thekeystone.com/products/patek-philippe-platinum-perpetual-calendar-retrograde-watch-ref-5059 Patek Philippe 5040: https://hairspring.com/finds/5040g-patek-philippe-perpetual-calendar/ Cartier CPCP 2646 Perpetual Calendar: https://www.acollectedman.com/products/cartier-tortue-2646-platinum Rare Heuers: https://hairspring.com/finds/volvo-dial-2447nst-heuer-carrera/ https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/found-vintage-heuer-carrera-car-and-driver https://www.phillips.com/detail/heuer/NY080222/24 https://hairspring.com/finds/shelby-cobra-dial-3147n-heuer-carrera-dato-12/ https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2024/fine-watches-9/reference-3647-carrera-sunray-dx-a-stainless-steel Rare Breitling: Superocean & AOPA: https://hairspring.com/exclusives/breitling/1004-superocean-steel/ https://hairspring.com/exclusives/breitling/806-valjoux-72-aopa-navitimer-steel/ Duograph: https://www.phillips.com/detail/breitling/HK080218/874 Unitime: https://www.watchprosite.com/horological-meandering/another-day-another-vintage-breitling-unitime-but-this-time-reference-1-260-/17.1403181.12717226/ Zenith S.58: https://hairspring.com/finds/s-58-zenith-150m-diver/ Zenith A3630: https://www.fratellowatches.com/dear-zenith-bring-back-the-sub-sea-ref-a3630/ Rolex 6556 Tru-Beat: https://hairspring.com/finds/single-family-owned-6556-rolex-tru-beat/ Omega Synchrobeat: https://www.phillips.com/detail/omega/CH080116/115 Rolex 6542: https://le-monde-edmond.com/in-depth-review-rolex-6542-gmt-master/ Rolex 3135 Bubble Back: https://www.phillips.com/detail/rolex/CH080215/207 Million-Dollar Daytonas: Neanderthal: https://www.phillips.com/detail/ROLEX/CH080318/32 Unicorn: https://www.phillips.com/detail/ROLEX/CH080318/8 IWC 9232: https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/iwc-ref-9503-9232-ingenieur-lot-321-54?page=3 https://www.frizzellweb.com/larry/ingenieur/Ingenieur4.html Eberhard: https://bulangandsons.com/products/eberhard-scafograf-300-black-gilt-dial-w696 https://www.phillips.com/detail/eberhard/HK080121/1083 https://hairspring.com/exclusives/eberhard/11538-scientigraf-steel/ Only Wrist: https://hairspring.com/exclusives/breitling/806-valjoux-72-aopa-navitimer-steel/ https://hairspring.com/exclusives/a-lange-sohne/401-026-1815-chronograph-first-generation-white-gold/

We all know the terms. We all know they’re BS. Today, Erik & Max talk about them no-holds-barred. We assess the hype cycles that are created around watches, the language of persuasion, and how you should go about being aware of these things while making watch decisions. Plus, TAG now have F1. How should they go about it? Links Mentioned: https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/talking-watches-greg-yuna ‘Obsidian’ Onyx Datejusts: https://hairspring.com/finds/obsidian-dial-1600-rolex-datejust/ https://momentum-dubai.com/products/1970-rolex-datejust-onyx-dial-ref-1600 ‘Scholarship-Changing’ Lange 1:  https://www.phillips.com/detail/a-lange-sohne/CH080224/29 Some Good Background on Stone Dials: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gQiFrIJ8AVE Unpolished Debate Comment Section: https://www.instagram.com/loupethis/p/ChBPOgupTUv/ Only Wrist: https://hairspring.com/finds/jochen-rindt-2446-heuer-autavia-third-execution/ https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/zenith-defy-inventor-introducing

Erik & Max have another first here, an awards ceremony. This is not the GPHG though, we’re covering a quarter century; go big or go home. Prepare for a dissection of early Journe, stories of a smashed Philippe Dufour, unexpected sales strategies, and descriptions of Max Büsser’s extreme handsomeness. We’re calling these the Balance Cocks. The first of, hopefully, many here.  Links Mentioned: Conversation: Rexhep Rexhepi: https://www.akrivia.com/watch/chronometre-contemporain-rexhep-rexhepi/ https://www.acollectedman.com/pages/rexhep-rexhepi-chronometre-contemporain-two MB&F: https://www.mbandf.com/en/machines/legacy-machines/lm101 https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/mb-and-f-lm101-stainless-steel-for-hodinkee FP Journe: https://www.acollectedman.com/blogs/journal/the-story-of-early-f-p-journe https://thejourneguy.com/traveling-through-time-with-f-p-journes-resonance-part-2/ Daniels Millenium: https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2023/important-watches-part-i-2/millenium-number-01-a-unique-and-historically https://www.danielslondon.com/dr-george-daniels-cbe/ Petermann Bédat: https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/after-its-second-release-petermann-bedat-have-established-themselves-as-one-of-switzerlands-most-exc Philippe Dufour: https://watchesbysjx.com/2021/11/philippe-dufour-grande-sonnerie-wristwatch-no-1.html https://www.acollectedman.com/products/philippe-dufour-grande-et-petite-sonnerie https://www.phillips.com/article/120822636/who-is-philippe-dufour-guide-simplicity-duality-sonnerie The first ever Hairspring Balance Cocks, We Present the 7 Most Significant Independent Watches of the Last 25 Years: Honorable Mention: Derek Pratt 7. Petermann Bédat 2941 Split Seconds 6. MB&F LM101 for Hodinkee 5. Rexhep RRCCI 4. FP Journe Resonance 3. Daniels Millenium  2. Philippe Dufour Simplicity 1. Philippe Dufour Grande et Petite Sonnerie Only Wrist: https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/henry-graves-supercomplication https://watchesbysjx.com/2016/05/a-detailed-look-at-eric-claptons-one-of-a-kind-patek-philippe-ref-5004p.html

This is Erik & Max’s first episode recorded together in person, for which they’ve saved a crowd favorite: Q&A. Yes, it’s time to answer your asks. Topics range from watches that surprised us to underrated vintage picks under 10K, the best skeleton QPs, real Chinese watchmaking, and the best independent at 200K. Plus, did Lange copy Movado? This is a relentless torrent of watch opinions with no holds barred, enjoy.  Links Mentioned: Watches We’ll Grow Into: https://hairspring.com/finds/1-of-26-london-racing-green-jaeger-lecoultre-reverso-1931/ https://www.phillips.com/detail/audemars-piguet/CH080123/206 https://hairspring.com/finds/3923a-patek-philippe-calatrava/ https://hairspring.com/finds/tropical-dial-1680-8-rolex-submariner/ Watches That Surprised Us In Person: https://hairspring.com/exclusives/laurent-ferrier/galet-classic-micro-rotor-for-hodinkee-titanium/ https://hairspring.com/finds/enamel-dial-laurent-ferrier-galet-traveller/ https://le-monde-edmond.com/rolex-8171/ https://bulangandsons.com/blogs/watch-talks/the-dare-devil-inventors-longines-sommatore-13zn-an-original-owner-watch-story https://www.alange-soehne.com/us-en/timepieces/odysseus/odysseus/odysseus-in-stainless-steel-363-179 https://hairspring.com/exclusives/greubel-forsey/balancier-contemporain-red-gold/ https://rarebirds.de/product/piaget-polo-1980/ https://www.fratellowatches.com/hands-on-with-the-new-atelier-wen-perception-2-0/ Great Chinese Watchmaking: https://monochrome-watches.com/interview-independent-watchmaker-chinese-china-logan-kuan-rao-orca-iceberg-wuwei-equal-push-escapement/ https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/qin-gan-independent-watchmaker-from-china Best Skeleton QPs: https://hairspring.com/finds/openwork-25668ba-audemars-piguet-quantieme-perpetuel/ https://hairspring.com/finds/43032p-vacheron-constantin-skeleton-perpetual-calendar/ Underrated Vintage Watches Under 10K: https://hairspring.com/finds/jochen-rindt-2446-heuer-autavia-third-execution/ https://hairspring.com/finds/beyer-dial-dato-45-heuer-3147s-carrera/ https://hairspring.com/finds/222100-1-universal-geneve-tri-compax/ https://mentawatches.com/product/zenith-a385-el-primero-2/ https://www.strictlyvintagewatches.com/the-rolex-oyster-perpetual-reference-1018 https://tudorcollector.com/collection/76100-submariner/ https://hairspring.com/finds/1830-iwc-golf-club-sl/ https://thekeystone.com/products/patek-philippe-steel-watch-ref-3574-with-box-and-papers https://www.fratellowatches.com/why-i-should-have-bought-the-black-dial-rolex-explorer-ii-16570/ https://www.omegaseamaster300.com/ https://hairspring.com/finds/exotic-dial-73443t-heuer-camaro-dato/ https://hairspring.com/finds/869109-01-universal-geneve-polerouter-sub-2/ Movado: https://hairspring.com/finds/breguet-dial-44920-movado-celestograf/ https://hairspring.com/finds/brushed-dial-movado-m95-sub-sea/ https://hairspring.com/finds/206-705-504-movado-super-sub-sea/ 37mm Alternatives to Calatrava and Nakagawa: https://hairspring.com/exclusives/a-lange-sohne/216-027-stealth-saxonia-boutique-edition-white-gold/ https://hairspring.com/exclusives/naoya-hida/type-1d-steel/ https://hairspring.com/finds/the-hour-glass-edition-chopard-luc-16-1860-1018/ (Misspoke when I said 1680, obviously still in Rolex in my head) https://hairspring.com/finds/sbgw033-grand-seiko-130th-anniversary-first/ https://hairspring.com/finds/philippe-dufour-simplicity/ https://hairspring.com/exclusives/vacheron-constantin/43031-first-series-quantieme-perpetuel-yellow-gold/ 200K Independents: https://hairspring.com/finds/meteorite-dial-laurent-ferrier-galet-traveller/ https://hairspring.com/exclusives/fp-journe/rq-salmon-dial-chronometre-a-resonance-platinum/ https://hairspring.com/exclusives/greubel-forsey/balancier-contemporain-red-gold/ https://www.phillips.com/detail/voutilainen/CH080223/144 https://www.phillips.com/detail/voutilainen/HK080120/824

This week is a first: a monobrand episode, but not as you might think. We are all given to love the Speedmaster, but there’s a whole world of Omega outside the Moonwatch that is waiting to meet you. This week, Erik & Max discuss some of the forgotten gems and rather beautiful references that stand in the shadow of Speedmasters. Just as some of the greatest-ever APs are not Royal Oaks, so too are some of the greatest Omegas ever made nothing to do with space.  Links Mentioned: https://universalgenevepolerouter.com/galleries/ Omega: Early Calibre 30L Tourbillon: https://www.phillips.com/detail/OMEGA/CH080217/182 https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-patek-philippe-observatory-tourbillon-worn-as-the-personal-watch-of-retired-president-philippe-stern https://www.fratellowatches.com/highlight-a-unique-omega-tourbillon-at-antiquorum-may-2021-auction/ 2914 Railmaster: https://vintageuhren.net/blogs/noticias/omega-railmaster-2914-a-collector-s-guide?srsltid=AfmBOoq8q2KgnjToTSw3on9QyqdEeyfsVt3nw5JkP3JRqVCRy_wzLr1U 166.0251 Seamaster 120 ‘Baby’ Ploprof: https://omegaforums.net/threads/omega-baby-ploprof-366-0858-166-0251.60609/ https://omegaforums.net/threads/1970s-omega-seamaster-120-%E2%80%9Cnon-babyploprof%E2%80%9D-166-0251.169106/ Constellations: https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/omega-lot-158-170 https://www.phillips.com/detail/OMEGA/CH080218/38 https://hairspring.com/finds/168-017-linen-dial-omega-constellation-date/ https://hairspring.com/finds/turler-dial-166-052-omega-constellation-chronometer/ https://www.phillips.com/detail/omega/CH080117/200 2077: https://www.db1983.com/vintage-watches/omega-333-ck-2077-radium-dial-1946 https://omegaforums.net/threads/omega-grail-watch-2077-1-cal-33-3-chro-military-chronograph-1939-%C2%A322000.41758/ https://www.phillips.com/detail/OMEGA/NY080118/98 https://www.phillips.com/detail/omega/NY080223/123 2606 and Cosmic Triple Calendars: https://www.phillips.com/detail/omega/CH080118/159 https://hairspring.com/finds/farsi-dial-2606-8-omega-cosmic-complete-calendar/ https://onlineonly.christies.com/s/watches-online-dubai-edit/omega-cosmic-ref-2606-8-two-tone-triple-calendar-moon-phase-made-iran-63/132376 Seamaster 321 Chronographs: https://hairspring.com/finds/14364-omega-seamaster-de-ville-calibre-321/ https://hairspring.com/finds/145-005-ultraman-omega-seamaster-321/ MD’s Chronograph: https://www.omegawatches.com/en-us/watch-omega-specialities-museum-51653395009001 McQueen Monaco Coming to Auction: https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-last-steve-mcqueen-heuer-monaco-from-le-mans-is-coming-to-auction Only Wrist: https://swisswatches-magazine.com/a-lange-soehne-1815-chronograph-concorso-deleganza-villa-deste-2024/ https://www.phillips.com/detail/christian-klings/CH080122/105 https://www.phillips.com/detail/urban-jurgensen/CH080224/83 https://monochrome-watches.com/the-superb-derek-pratt-remontoir-degalite-by-luca-soprana-and-concise-history-of-derek-pratt-watchmaker/ https://hairspring.com/finds/charles-frodsham-double-impulse-chronometer/ https://www.breguet.com/en/timepieces/tradition/7057

Only in watches can one model or reference span from utterly dull to incredibly special depending on the variant. To highlight this unique facet of our world, Erik & Max select a handful of famous models across brands and categories, then attempt to find both the most boring version and the most exceptional or interesting version ever made. This one is a wild ride and as nerdy as it gets. Plus, an Only Wrist for a Hell’s Angel.  Links Mentioned: Calatravas: Boring:  https://www.fratellowatches.com/fratello-christmas-special-the-patek-philippe-calatrava-570/ https://onbehalf.jp/en/item/21026/ https://www.watchprosite.com/patek-philippe/patek-philippe-5296r-comparison-of-standard-or-sector-dial-versions/11.1062453.7707568/ Interesting: https://www.phillips.com/detail/patek-philippe/CH080121/160 https://le-monde-edmond.com/patek-3428-platinum-enamel-dial/ https://www.christies.com/lot/lot-patek-philippe-an-extremely-fine-and-rare-4982656/? Perpetual Calendar Chronographs: Boring: https://www.phillips.com/detail/patek-philippe/CH080120/199 https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2021/important-watches-6/4th-series-ref-2499-100-yellow-gold-perpetual Interesting: https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-wild-mostly-complete-story-of-john-lennons-lost-patek-philippe-2499 https://watchesbysjx.com/2016/11/hands-on-with-eric-claptons-custom-dial-patek-philippe-refs-3970-and-5004.html GMT-Master: Boring: https://www.watchprosite.com/rolex/the-rolex-fat-lady/732.797658.5353933/ https://www.bobswatches.com/rolex-blog/watch-review/rolex-gmt-master-ii-16760.html?srsltid=AfmBOorB9I7L5tNOSeAgMlVucad77pIQyuvxklaJcQABKjC6dYMu_g3K Interesting: https://www.phillips.com/detail/rolex/HK080219/829 https://www.everestbands.com/blogs/bezel-barrel/rolex-vintage-gems-the-concorde-gmt-master?srsltid=AfmBOormU34blZbq0wWwrVCoy1qJw_jgQIFmM8j_a23Oy4Lo010b4Y6X https://le-monde-edmond.com/in-depth-review-rolex-6542-gmt-master/ https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/Albino-GMT-Master-6542 https://le-monde-edmond.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/11/6542Pink_dial.jpeg Datejust: Boring: https://www.fratellowatches.com/the-rolex-datejust-16030-buying-this-classic-wasnt-spooky/ https://timelessvintage.watch/blog/the-buckley-dial Interesting: https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2023/important-watches-2/reference-6105-datejust-ovettone-a-pink-gold https://hairspring.com/finds/honeycomb-dial-ovettone-6305-rolex-datejust/ https://www.monacolegendauctions.com/auction/exclusive-timepieces-24/lot-142 https://hairspring.com/finds/red-jasper-dial-1600-8-rolex-datejust/ Resonance: Boring: https://hairspring.com/finds/mop-parking-meter-fp-journe-chronometre-a-resonance/ Interesting: https://hairspring.com/exclusives/fp-journe/rq-salmon-dial-chronometre-a-resonance-platinum/ https://www.watchprozine.com/f-p-journe/chronometre-a-resonance-20-years-retrospective-exhibition-in-geneva/12240796/9/ Royal Oak: Boring: https://www.acollectedman.com/blogs/journal/collectors-guide-audemars-piguet-14790 https://mrwatchley.com/products/audemars-piguet-royal-oak-foundation-time-for-the-trees-ref-15100st https://apchronicles.audemarspiguet.com/en/article/guillochage-tapisserie Interesting: https://www.phillips.com/detail/audemars-piguet/CH080222/38 https://www.phillips.com/detail/audemars-piguet/CH080222/10 Only Wrist: https://www.instagram.com/p/C93rPyJJDSB/ https://watchesbysjx.com/2021/04/iwc-big-pilot-shock-absorber-xpl.html

Whether we call them pet peeves, grievances, or things that grind our gears, this week Erik & Max are enumerating all the tiny annoyances that get on our nerves in watches. Broad strokes, so as to not give the reveal away, conversational topics include photography, movements, selling watches, snobbery, significant digits, and many more. Finally, an Only Wrist for the Cold War.  Links Mentioned: Olympic Elegante: https://www.instagram.com/p/C-C972ng3iG/ Olympic Seikos: https://www.fratellowatches.com/dear-seiko-bring-back-the-5717-8990-monopusher-chronograph/ What Grinds our Gears: https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/how-to-take-better-photos-of-your-watches-without-buying-a-new-camera https://www.watchprosite.com/patek-philippe/photo-comparo--5070-5270-and-5970/11.769133.5113193/ https://us.arbitro.shop/products/vacheron-constantin-round-6562-steel-silver-dial https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Significant_figures https://hairspring.com/finds/time-aeon-naissance-dune-montre-2/ https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/romain-gauthier-insight-micro-rotor-hands-on https://monochrome-watches.com/the-all-new-romain-gauthier-continuum-specs-price/ Only Wrist: https://www.phillips.com/detail/rolex/CH080122/118 https://hairspring.com/finds/honeycomb-dial-6350-rolex-explorer/

Erik & Max are accustomed to giving watch advice to others. They’re used to competing to build the best collections for a given category. But this one is . . .more intimate. This week, they’re building collections for each other. 50K for three watches: let the cards fall as they may. Plus, if you’re a star chef, how do you balance wanting something special with being in the kitchen?  Links Mentioned: https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/in-depth-patek-philippe-reference-2497-part-1 https://hairspring.com/finds/bundeswehr-3501-iwc-porsche-design-ocean-2000/ https://www.fratellowatches.com/the-iwc-porsche-design-ocean-bund/ https://hairspring.com/finds/royal-navy-clearance-diver-116660-rolex-sea-dweller-deepsea/ The 50K Gifted Collection: Max’s Choices: https://www.phillips.com/detail/patek-philippe/HK080423/886?fromSearch=570%20patek&searchPage=1 https://shop.hodinkee.com/products/1965-breitling-superocean-reference-2005?variant=12117073395787 https://hairspring.com/exclusives/breitling/2005-yachting-superocean-slow-chronograph-steel/ https://www.phillips.com/detail/breitling/HK080221/831 https://hairspring.com/exclusives/iwc/9240-ingenieur-perpetual-calendar-jumbo-yellow-gold/ Erik’s Choices: https://hairspring.com/finds/mk2-freccione-1655-rolex-explorer-ii/ https://hairspring.com/finds/206-705-504-movado-super-sub-sea/ https://hairspring.com/finds/cb-case-105-012-66-omega-speedmaster/ https://hairspring.com/finds/e335-lecoultre-valjoux-72-chronograph/ https://goldammer.me/blogs/articles/valjoux-lecoultre-us-chronograph-guide https://hairspring.com/finds/4217-vacheron-constantin-calibre-454-5b-calatrava/ https://www.beyondthedial.com/post/collector-guide-vacheron-constantin-reference-4217-time-only-calatrava-style-dress-watch-1940s-1970s-complete-information-on-an-undervalued-classic/ Only Wrist: https://hairspring.com/finds/peach-dial-14800ba-audemars-piguet-royal-oak/ https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-patek-philippe-aquanaut-5060a-the-90s-start-of-something-new-kind-of https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-patek-philippe-aquanaut-reference-5065a https://hairspring.com/exclusives/iwc/9240-ingenieur-perpetual-calendar-jumbo-yellow-gold/ https://www.fratellowatches.com/into-the-archives-iwc-ingenieur-sl-jumbo-1832/

Erik & Max are joined this week by their second ever guest, Justin Hast. Justin is a great champion for watch enthusiasm, a presenter, consultant, and content monster for all things wristwatches. We drill down on his own collecting philosophy, ask what the ultimate Lange 1 is, discuss the importance of brand, and how we go about learning in a changing media landscape. Plus, we ask Justin to assemble a no-budget ultimate 3 watch roll. One not to miss here.  Links Mentioned: Ultimate Lange 1s: https://www.phillips.com/detail/a-lange-sohne/CH080223/45 https://hairspring.com/finds/101-027x-a-lange-sohne-lange-1/ https://www.acollectedman.com/products/a-lange-sohne-lange-1-dubail-white-gold https://www.acollectedman.com/products/a-lange-sohne-lange1-soiree-110029-mop-white-gold Collecting Philosophy: https://hairspring.com/finds/3705-iwc-ceramic-flieger/ https://hairspring.com/exclusives/a-lange-sohne/140-035-zeitwerk-lumen-phantom-platinum/ https://hairspring.com/exclusives/a-lange-sohne/414-026-1815-chronograph-boutique-edition-white-gold/ https://hairspring.com/finds/fp-journe-vagabondage-iii-in-pink-gold/ https://watchesbysjx.com/2021/12/patek-philippe-5236p-in-line-perpetual-calendar-review.html Independents and Brand: https://hairspring.com/exclusives/laurent-ferrier/galet-classic-micro-rotor-for-hodinkee-titanium/ https://hairspring.com/exclusives/ressence/type-1-slim-hod-limited-edition-for-hodinkee-titanium/ https://hairspring.com/exclusives/mbf/legacy-machine-lm2-titanium/ https://hairspring.com/exclusives/de-bethune/db-kind-of-two-jumping-gmt-titanium/ https://anomawatches.com/ https://hairspring.com/exclusives/fp-journe/octa-calendrier-pink-gold/ https://hairspring.com/finds/1-of-20-h-moser-cie-funky-blue-endeavor-tourbillon-concept/ Media Landscape: https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/a-note-on-the-future-of-hodinkee 3 Questions: https://monochrome-watches.com/introducing-c-by-romain-gauthier-titanium-edition-integrated-bracelet-luxury-sports-watch-specs-price/ https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-bulgari-aluminium-gmt https://hairspring.com/finds/101-027x-a-lange-sohne-lange-1/ https://www.fratellowatches.com/vacheron-constantin-historiques-american-1921-a-very-pleasant-platinum-surprise/ https://hairspring.com/finds/f-p-journe-elegante-titalyt/ Only Wrist: https://hairspring.com/finds/cartier-cpcp-tank-a-guichets-in-rose-gold-2/ https://hairspring.com/exclusives/chopard/luc-qf-revolution-steel/ https://www.acollectedman.com/products/vacheron-constantin-jumping-hours-platinum

Erik & Max are back to it, asking which references have languished most over time and, more importantly, why? No manufactures are safe. We ask why the Santos got overweight, how Lange implemented cost-cutting, why the Freccione hand doesn’t make sense on a modern dial, and ask if Breguet are even alive? Finally, a few tips to make your watch photography sing.  Links Mentioned: https://www.instagram.com/p/CwNlerIuPA3/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/vintage-audemars-piguet-reference-5516-perpetual-calendar Reference Punts: Lange Annual Calendars: https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-a-lange-and-sohne-saxonia-annual-calendar-in-platinum https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/a-lange-sohne-1815-annual-calendar-review https://hairspring.com/exclusives/a-lange-sohne/330-026-saxonia-annual-calendar-white-gold/ Cartier Santos: https://www.cartier.com/en-us/watches/collections/santos-de-cartier/ https://hairspring.com/finds/burgundy-dial-2960-cartier-santos-carree/ Breguet: https://hairspring.com/finds/3357-breguet-tourbillon/ https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/hands-on-breguet-type-xx-type-20 https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-breguet-classique-chronometrie-7727 Rolex Explorer IIs: https://www.watchprosite.com/rolex/the-evolution-of-the-freccione/732.574096.3563066/ https://hairspring.com/exclusives/rolex/16550-cream-panna-dial-explorer-ii-steel/ https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-new-rolex-explorer-ii-ref-226570-in-both-polar-and-black Only Wrist: http://www.5513mattedial.com/5512/About.html https://blancpainblog.com/timepieces/fifty-fathoms/a-cross-generational-family-gathering/

Erik & Max attempt to answer a deceivingly deep listener query: what makes a given movement great? In a conversation that spans from column wheels, Valjoux VZ Audemars Piguets, and the in-house obsession, we attempt to answer. Then, Max asks a fairly impossible question: if you were given carte blanche to design any watch from any watchmaker, what would you do? Plus, an Only Wrist for a radiologist.  Links Mentioned: Chronograph Points: https://revolutionwatch.com/rules-chronograph-engagement/ https://www.watchprosite.com/a.-lange-and-s%C3%B6hne/how-column-wheel-chronographs-work-notably-the-lange-l951-movements-/10.1026673.7293393/ https://watchesbysjx.com/2023/04/in-depth-fp-journe-centigraphe-movement.html https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-gronefeld-1941-gronograaf-the-first-ever-chronograph-from-the-gronefeld-brothers Beauty: https://le-monde-edmond.com/audemars-piguet-5516/ https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/patek-philippe-lot-154-259 https://www.watchprosite.com/vacheron-constantin/for-the-pleasure-of-the-eyes-vacheron-constantin-minute-repeater-skeleton-/14.1576206.15603611/ https://www.fratellowatches.com/greubel-forsey-hand-made-1-grail/ Technical Prowess: https://hairspring.com/finds/26586ip-audemars-piguet-royal-oak-perpetual-calendar-rd2/ JLC 920: https://revolutionwatch.com/i-am-legend-the-jaeger-lecoultre-calibre-920/ https://watchesbysjx.com/2020/12/04 Legends: https://wornandwound.com/chronography-4-lemania-5100/ https://goldammer.me/blogs/articles/reymond-valjoux-chronograph-guide-history https://revolutionwatch.com/the-complete-history-of-the-amazing-lemania-chronograph-calibre-2310/ Bad Movements: https://www.watchprosite.com/page-wf.forumpost/fi-17/ti-1421081/dv-true/wf.responses.open_bLoB_s-0/ https://www.watchprosite.com/patek-philippe/when-did-patek-finish-quality-change--moderator-edit-it-hasn-t-changed-/11.1555431.15271751/ https://perezcope.com/2021/08/22/revisting-panerais-pam-of-worms/ Designing Any Watch from Any Watchmaker: https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/in-depth-rolex-8171-padellone-moonphase https://www.phillips.com/article/11398883/the-bao-dai-rolex https://www.acollectedman.com/products/akrivia-ak06-steel-watch https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/jean-pierre-hagmann-casemaker-rexhep-rexhepi-akrivia-geneva-2022 Only Wrist: https://www.phillips.com/detail/jaegerlecoultre/CH080119/91 https://www.phillips.com/detail/patek-philippe/CH080319/26

Erik & Max are discussing just what value means in watches and relating it to price in a wide ranging discussion which covers Black Bays, 2499s, early Journes, and 5711 bracelets. Then, a little chat around lessons in watches that can only be learned the hard way. Plus, what is the correct watch for a son of the Sultan of Brunei? Links Mentioned: Price Vs. Value: https://revolutionwatch.com/eric-claptons-patek-philippe-white-gold-5970-with-brick-bracelet/ https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-tudor-black-bay-fifty-eight-is-not-a-submariner-alternative https://hairspring.com/finds/first-series-beyer-3940j-patek-philippe-perpetual-calendar/ https://www.acollectedman.com/blogs/journal/patek-philippe-3940 https://www.newyorker.com/magazine/2024/06/24/the-strange-journey-of-john-lennons-stolen-patek-phillippe-watch https://www.phillips.com/article/112525780/a-beginners-guide-to-the-world-of-fp-journe https://www.phillips.com/detail/rexhep-rexhepi/CH080224/58 https://www.phillips.com/detail/fp-journe/CH080122/187 Things You Can Only Learn the Hard Way: https://revolutionwatch.com/vintage-watch-repair-watchmaker-interview/ https://hairspring.com/finds/schumacher-legends-the-most-rolex-speedmaster-ever-made/ Only Wrist: https://www.richardmille.com/historical-models/rm-020-tourbillon-pocket-watch https://www.forbes.com/sites/robertanaas/2018/02/01/meet-the-373000-erotic-watch-ulysse-nardins-nsfw-classic-voyeur/ https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/purnell-escape-ii-carbon-and-escape-ii-all-black-introducing https://thekeystone.com/products/corum-yellow-gold-rolls-royce-mechanical-watch-ref-55595

It’s a collection-building gauntlet this week; Erik & Max limit themselves to 3 watches, 3 handers, and the Holy Trinity. Prepare for a surprising degree of variance. And then a small interview with Max to learn a bit more about his background and an Only Wrist for an Art Thief. Plus, just where is Aldrin’s Speedmaster today?  Links Mentioned: Bugatti Tourbillon: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PClxnRzIE4g Three-Hand, Three-Watch Collection from the Holy Trinity for 200K US: Vacheron Constantin: https://us.arbitro.shop/products/vacheron-constantin-round-6562-steel-silver-dial https://hairspring.com/finds/vacheron-constantin-square-222-automatic/ Audemars Piguet: https://hairspring.com/finds/4100ba-audemars-piguet-royal-oak-iii/ https://hairspring.com/exclusives/audemars-piguet/4332ba-royal-oak-yellow-gold/ (Correction: 4332 is 36.5 not 37) https://hairspring.com/exclusives/audemars-piguet/5402-tropical-dial-royal-oak-c-series-steel/ (Ladies ref. is 8638) https://hairspring.com/finds/burgundy-dial-25720pt-audemars-piguet-star-wheel-2/ https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/introducing-ap-remaster02 Patek Philippe: https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-patek-philippe-2526-and-why-its-a-watch-to-pay-attention-to https://www.phillips.com/article/135827007/patek-philippe-2597-vintage-travel-gmt-auction-results-guide https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/patek-philippes-travel-time-legacy Honorable Mentions: https://hairspring.com/exclusives/audemars-piguet/5402-tropical-dial-royal-oak-c-series-steel/ https://collectability.com/product/patek-philippe-white-gold-calatrava-ref-570g-2/ https://hairspring.com/finds/2508-patek-philippe-calatrava/ https://hairspring.com/finds/beyer-dial-3417-patek-philippe-amagnetic/ Only Wrist: https://www.craftandtailored.com/products/1965-breitling-navitimer-gold-cap-ref-806-twin-jets-gilt-dial https://hairspring.com/finds/5970r-patek-philippe-perpetual-calendar-chronograph/ https://sub.rescapement.com/p/six-of-the-most-intriguing-missing

Erik & Max tour through some of the more significant innovations ever in the history of watchmaking to ask, ‘Where are all the innovations?’ Including conversations around silicon, dubious 3940s, and trench watches. Then we invite a Rolex AD to come give a peer behind the curtain of Rolex to see how things really work. Plus, an Only Wrist to save Boeing. Links Mentioned: Innovations: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/History_of_watches https://wornandwound.com/watchmakers-bench-what-makes-it-tick-part-3-keyless-works-and-the-hand-setting-mechanism/ https://hairspring.com/finds/740-036-a-lange-sohne-datograph-perpetual-tourbillon/ https://monochrome-watches.com/history-automatic-watch-first-automatic-pocket-watch-first-automatic-wristwatch-technical-perspective/ https://www.windvintage.com/blog/2022/9/7/the-oyster-story https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-modern-watch-escapement-and-how-it-got-that-way https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/zenith-defy-inventor-introducing https://www.phillips.com/article/120989115/a-guide-to-the-patek-philippe-advanced-research-series 3 Questions: https://speedmaster101.com/ https://goldammer.me/products/omega-seamaster-deville-18k https://www.gronefeld.com/collection/1941-principia/white-gold-br-or-br-stainless-steel-5/ https://hairspring.com/exclusives/gronefeld/1941-principia-sydel-sydel-edition-steel/ https://hairspring.com/exclusives/mbf/legacy-machine-lm2-titanium/ https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/all-three-versions-of-the-new-mbandf-lm101-2021-edition https://www.phillips.com/detail/mbf/CH080121/226?fromSearch=hodinkee%20&searchPage=1 https://www.acollectedman.com/products/buy-voutilinen-prototype-vingt8-platinum-watch https://hairspring.com/finds/green-don-bezel-2998-3-omega-speedmaster/ Only Wrist: https://hairspring.com/finds/3947-breguet-classique-rattrapante/ https://hairspring.com/exclusives/omega/105-012-65-tropical-dial-speedmaster-steel/ https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Je-07hM0sTo https://hairspring.com/exclusives/breitling/806-valjoux-72-aopa-navitimer-steel/