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How Fitting: design a slow fashion business that fits

How Fitting: design a slow fashion business that fits
Author: Alison Hoenes | women's apparel patternmaker
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© 2020-2025 Alison Hoenes Design, LLC
Description
How Fitting® is the podcast for slow fashion designers who want to create clothing and grow a business that fits their customer, lifestyle, and values. In biweekly episodes, hear how relatable fashion entrepreneurs (the kind who run their businesses from kitchen tables and cutting tables, not boardroom tables) navigate the fashion industry with integrity and define success based on their own principles.
In each conversation, host Alison Hoenes (a freelance women’s apparel patternmaker) explores the things that all slow fashion business owners experience: the vulnerability of launching something new, the deeply empathetic process of designing clothes that fit a niche market, the challenges of pursuing both financial and environmental sustainability, the late nights of reckoning with your values that make you consider shutting the whole thing down, and the rewarding moments that make it all worth it.
In addition, hear from experienced fashion industry resources that are helping indie designers make a difference and a profit – like low MOQ factories, fashion marketing and business coaches, or sustainable fabric suppliers.
How Fitting® offers validation that you are not alone in your fashion entrepreneurship experience, ideas to try on in your fashion business to create a better fit, and a curious look into how other slow fashion brands are making it work. How fitting is that?
In each conversation, host Alison Hoenes (a freelance women’s apparel patternmaker) explores the things that all slow fashion business owners experience: the vulnerability of launching something new, the deeply empathetic process of designing clothes that fit a niche market, the challenges of pursuing both financial and environmental sustainability, the late nights of reckoning with your values that make you consider shutting the whole thing down, and the rewarding moments that make it all worth it.
In addition, hear from experienced fashion industry resources that are helping indie designers make a difference and a profit – like low MOQ factories, fashion marketing and business coaches, or sustainable fabric suppliers.
How Fitting® offers validation that you are not alone in your fashion entrepreneurship experience, ideas to try on in your fashion business to create a better fit, and a curious look into how other slow fashion brands are making it work. How fitting is that?
125 Episodes
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In an industry obsessed with outward appearances, what if we made decisions by listening to our body and not just looking at it? If clothing choices came from a place of self-awareness, how would that change the way we design products and run fashion businesses? Victoria Lister approaches her work from this perspective. In episode 124, she shares what made her start listening to her body and what that has meant for her underwear and lounge brand Hummingbird Pie.
Victoria is the founder and owner-operator of Hummingbird Pie, an Australian-based, micro-business that has supplied women with luxe, everyday basics since 2015. The business was born from Victoria's personal quest to solve the problem of thigh chafing without resorting to shapewear – a challenge that led her to create Hummingbird Pie’s flagship product, long-legged underpants known as ‘Longerpants’.
Today, the range has expanded to include outer as well as underwear, designed to help women of all ages, stages, shapes and sizes to feel at home in themselves – not reshaped, but supported, relaxed and free to be. Hummingbird Pie fits in and around Victoria's work as a researcher, with the help of her wonderful husband and two dear friends who work casually on different aspects of business, and local suppliers and manufacturers.
This episode explores:
Fitting the customer
How the Hummingbird Pie target customer has expanded since the start of the business
The mindset that unites Hummingbird Pie customers
What makes Hummingbird Pie garments different
The relationship Victoria wants her customers to have with Hummingbird Pie clothes
Fitting the lifestyle
The challenges of scaling a cottage business
Why new products don’t always start with design
What gave Victoria the courage to start a business
The behind the scenes lifestyle that supports Victoria’s business
Fitting the values
How Victoria’s self-awareness and valuing her body influences her approach to design
Why Victoria prefers working with other collaborators instead of learning how to do everything herself
People and resources mentioned in this episode:
Hummingbird Pie website
Hummingbird Pie email
Hummingbird Pie Instagram
Victoria’s LinkedIn
Do you want fashion business tips and resources like this sent straight to your inbox? Sign up for the How Fitting newsletter to receive new podcast episodes plus daily content on creating fashion that fits your customer, lifestyle, and values.
We talk about how timeless fashion lets us build sustainable wardrobes. What if the benefits of timelessness weren’t confined to our customers’ closets? Today’s guest, Gabriela Garcia Olivo, found that her timeless designs helped her build a more sustainable business. Her story is one of resilience, refinement, and reflection. In episode 123, she shares her perspective on what it takes and why it is worth it to build a fashion brand.
Gabriela Garcia Olivo is the founder and creative director of Gabriela Michele, a timeless women’s clothing brand inspired by the elegance of 1950s fashion and the captivating spirit of Latin American women. Born from a desire to celebrate feminine sophistication in everyday life, her brand merges vintage glamour with modern craftsmanship. With a commitment to quality, her collections feature natural fabrics, tailored fits, and thoughtful details that invite women to embrace their confidence and femininity.
This episode explores:
Fitting the customer
Why Gabriela does not use herself as the fit model even though she is her target market
The surprising demographic of women who resonate with her brand
The two things that have made the biggest difference in finding her customers and growing the brand
Fitting the lifestyle
How long it took from idea to launch
The aspects of vintage style that Gabriela has carried into her designs
Why Gabriela paused her brand twice since initially launching
What kept Gabriela going when sales were slow and burnout was looming
How Gabriela balances ambition with realistic expectations for her business
Fitting the values
How Gabriela found a factory and patternmaker that she trusts
How timeless style has led to a timeless business
People and resources mentioned in this episode:
Gabriela Michele website
Gabriela Michele Instagram
Gabriela Michele email
Do you want fashion business tips and resources like this sent straight to your inbox? Sign up for the How Fitting newsletter to receive new podcast episodes plus daily content on creating fashion that fits your customer, lifestyle, and values.
Emily Harris started out as a designer of clothes, but recently, she says she’s become more of a designer of supply chains. Over the fifteen years since starting her brand Mrs. Emily, Emily has produced her signature elastic-waist skirts in different ways – sewing them herself to order, working with a seamstress to stock a retail location, and now working with a fair trade mill and sewing studio to produce inventory. Her product has gotten even more beautifully simple, but the logistics have gotten far more complex.
In episode 122, Emily candidly shares how her target customer has grown as she and her business have, how her change in lifestyle required a change in manufacturing, and why play and personal style are necessities in her work and business.
Emily is a fashion designer, wife, and mom based in Champaign, Illinois. She studied fashion design at Southern Illinois University as a newlywed, and after graduating, she and her husband moved to New York City, where she worked for bridal designer Amsale Aberra. In 2010, Emily launched her own brand as a way to grow her design career while staying present with her young family.
After years of creating custom garments made to clients’ measurements, Emily developed a proprietary size chart and began manufacturing with small, family-run workshops in India and Bangladesh—workshops where she has personal relationships and deep trust. These teams produce extraordinary work and provide fair wages, healthcare, and childcare to their employees.
Now, 15 years into her brand and 14 years into motherhood, Emily continues to design every piece from her home studio. Her business has been shaped by a desire to live fully in all her roles: as a mother, a wife, and a designer.
This episode explores:
Fitting the customer
How her target customer has grown as Emily and her business have
How Emily decides what skirts to offer each season
How Emily balances the technical, quantitative feedback with personal, qualitative feedback as she designs
The ways that Mrs. Emily products have been simplified – and the work that has gone into doing so
Fitting the lifestyle
The lifestyle that inspired her signature elastic-waist skirts
How Mrs. Emily has changed as Emily’s daily lifestyle has changed over the years
Why Emily describes her role as being a designer of supply chains, not just a designer of clothes
What kept Emily going when everything in her business felt heavy and stressful
Fitting the values
What made Emily look at her product more seriously
The thing that really fuels inspiration
Why fair trade manufacturing is so important to Emily
Why play and personal style are necessities in Emily’s work and business
People and resources mentioned in this episode:
Mrs. Emily website
Mrs. Emily Instagram
Emily’s email
Mrs. Emily LinkedIn
Emily on How Fitting episode 9
Jackie of Motif Handmade on How Fitting episode 120
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Michelle Dwight has a notebook of what she calls weird and wonderful ideas. These ideas become convertible dresses and swimwear for curvy women. She started her brand, Aulieude, as a young designer wanting stylish, sustainable fashion. As her business has grown, she’s learned to apply her creativity to her business and not just her designs. As she’s grown too, she’s decided what things are and are not worth compromising.
In episode 121, hear how the Aulieude customer has grown up as Michelle has, how Michelle’s lifestyle has played into her business decisions over the years, and why business values are extra important when you are ready to scale.
As a girl, Michelle loved creating beauty from the found materials around her. Often shopping clothes to sew into something new and pattern making from intuition on her spotlight mannequin with A4 printer paper and sticky tape. She made platform shoes in woodwork, leather working, making corsetry, consistently fascinated by the construction of various mediums. Michelle would dress her sister and her friends up in her creations and emulate vogue editorial shoots with an old SLR camera and a vision.
Aulieude was founded in 2017 by our then 23 year old Designer, Michelle Dwight, making dresses from her bedroom. After studying at Sydney’s Fashion Design Studio and working in the Fast fashion industry, Michelle grew tired of flimsy garments and wanted to craft quality fits that would be loved over a lifetime.
Passionate about sustainability, she set out to create conscious clothing that didn’t compromise on style. In lieu of (‘Au Lieu De’) shapeless eco fashion on the market, Michelle took pride in carefully constructing flattering feminine silhouettes that celebrated a woman’s curves – designing adjustable and multiway pieces that tailor to the wearer’s unique shape and style.
Gaining a loyal following in the Market stalls of Sydney and Melbourne, Aulieude transitioned to selling exclusively online. They have since proudly expanded their size range, introduced original prints and formal wear as well as their most recent category, Swim! Every Aulieude garment is pattern made by hand in Michelle’s Melbourne Studio by the designer herself. Aulieude samples are made for Michelle’s curvy body and she fits each creation on models of various sizes to make sure that the quality and fit of the pieces are absolutely perfect for you.
Michelle, now 32, is continually inspired by the wonderful community of women Aulieude has garnered. Strong, caring women who own their femininity and deserve to be supported and empowered. Engaging with and serving this community brings so much joy and fulfilment that continues to inspire the collections to come.
This episode explores:
Fitting the customer
Who Michelle designs for
What Michelle learned about her customers at markets
The new “risky” category that Aulieude recently added
Why Alieude changed how its pieces are sized
Fitting the lifestyle
How much Michelle saved up to start Aulieude and fund her first production run
The big mistake Michelle made when she attended her first market
How Michelle’s lifestyle has played into her business decisions
The reason Michelle didn’t want to be the face of Aulieude initially and what changed her mind
How Michelle has grown as her business has
Fitting the values
Why values are super important when you are ready to scale your business
An aspect of sustainability that many fashion founders overlook
Why Michelle travels to visit her factory (it is NOT to check in on production)
People and resources mentioned in this episode:
Aulieude website
Aulieude Instagram
Aulieude email
Do you want fashion business tips and resources like this sent straight to your inbox? Sign up for the How Fitting newsletter to receive new podcast episodes plus daily content on creating fashion that fits your customer, lifestyle, and values.
In today’s world, technology has woven its way into nearly every aspect of our lives and work. The fashion industry is always looking for ways to make things faster and automate work that always used to be done by humans – but not Jackie. She’s been working with hand weavers in Bangladesh for over three decades and is more passionate about the future of fair trade, hand-crafted fabrics than ever. Jackie teaches designers how to design their own handwoven fabrics and helps them get their textiles made through her business Motif Handmade.
In episode 120, Jackie shares how designing your own handwoven textiles is more accessible to you as an independent designer than you might realize, how she’s seen fair trade sourcing change lives, and the value that threads through all of Jackie’s work.
Jackie Corlett is the founder of Motif Handmade, a Brit who swapped the rolling hills of England for decades in vibrant Bangladesh, and now calls the wide-open prairies of Illinois home. As a textile designer, Jackie’s lifelong passion is for handcrafted fabrics and the remarkable artisans who bring them to life. Over the years, she’s helped students, designers and brands weave artisanal goods into their collections, creating beauty with purpose.
Today, through her course KIND FABRIC, Jackie’s mission is to empower designers with the skills and confidence to develop their own fair trade certified, custom fabrics and finished goods. She believes sourcing can be 100% transparent, giving you 100% peace of mind. From fibre to fabric to finished product, Jackie champions a world where creativity isn’t just about making things ... it’s about making a difference.
This episode explores:
Fitting the customer
Why handwoven textiles are more accessible to you as an independent designer than you might realize
The two big shifts that have accelerated the demand and accessibility of fair trade textiles over Jackie’s career
Fitting the lifestyle
What captured Jackie’s interest back in 1989 that started her on the path towards the work she is doing today
How fair trade sourcing changes us as designers
How long it takes to design your own handwoven fabrics and get them made
How the MOQs and cost of handwoven fabrics compare to other fabric options
Fitting the values
The thing that matters most to Jackie in her work
Why creating products with integrity is easier now than ever before
The ways that Fast Fashion mindsets creep into our work
The real impact of fair trade
People and resources mentioned in this episode:
Motif Handmade website
Motif Handmade Instagram
Jackie’s email
Jackie’s LinkedIn
Kind Fabric course
Previous How Fitting guests who use Motif fabrics in their collection: Mrs. Emily and Glean & Grace
Cyclo recycled fiber yarns
Plaidmaker plaid design tool
Future Fabrics Expo
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Luxury doesn’t always look like designer clothes, high heels, and a “dream” fashion job in NYC. Sometimes it looks more like quiet morning moments getting ready for a big day, hand-stitched embroidery on a vintage table linen, and barefoot commutes to a home office in a Spanish apartment. Christine Lindebak has always appreciated these small details. With her bridal loungewear brand, Lindy Lindy, she has leaned into these details even more. Each piece is crafted using vintage textiles that share a luxurious story of their own.
In episode 119, hear why her lounge and sleepwear designs were a perfect fit for brides, how Christine’s identity and lifestyle massively changed when she quit corporate, and the ways that Christine has considered scaling that align with her values.
Christine Lindebak is a fashion industry veteran, having worked for Emilio Pucci, Mulberry, and Alexis Bittar. She is the founder of Lindy Lindy, creating bespoke homewear from vintage Spanish linens for brides seeking one-of-a-kind getting-ready attire. Christine is also the force behind Sewing and the City, selling fashion sewing patterns online and in shops around the globe and inspiring people of all ages to sew their own clothes.
This episode explores:
Fitting the customer
Why the bridal loungewear market organically fit Lindy Lindy
How Lindy Lindy’s niche made marketing easier for Christine
How Lindy Lindy pieces are sized
Christine’s approach to pricing her pieces
Fitting the lifestyle
How Christine landed her first wholesale partnership
Why Christine quit her “dream” career in luxury retail
How Christine’s identity and lifestyle massively changed when she quit corporate
Fitting the values
The reason behind Christine’s premium sewing construction choices
How the textiles themselves shape Lindy Lindy designs
How Christine’s values play out in the day to day operations of Lindy Lindy
The ways that Christine has considered scaling that fit her values
People and resources mentioned in this episode:
Lindy Lindy website
Lindy Lindy Instagram
Sewing In The City website
Do you want fashion business tips and resources like this sent straight to your inbox? Sign up for the How Fitting newsletter to receive new podcast episodes plus daily content on creating fashion that fits your customer, lifestyle, and values.
Rose and Doug Phillips asked: “how can we spend every day, together, doing what we love?” Their answer was Conscious Clothing. For two decades they built their business on this premise - even building the gorgeous, sun-filled Michigan studio where their team of ten designs and makes each piece of organic and natural fiber clothing.
Things haven’t always been dreamy, though. As the brand grew, work started to creep into the weekends. The pandemic hit. Then Doug lost his life and business partner. But, the heartfelt vision for Conscious Clothing remained. In this interview, Doug and General Manager Liz DeBraber share how they’re intentionally restructuring the business for the sake of themselves, their team, and their customers.
Doug Phillips is the owner of Conscious Clothing, an organic and natural fiber clothing company based in the Grand Rapids Michigan area. While navigating the challenges of designing and manufacturing in the US for over 23 years against a flood of cheap clothing imports, a mission was born. Exemplifying how a better way is possible by supporting local and organic is better for people and the planet. Doug hopes everyone realizes their power to create change with the purchase power they have and the brands they choose to support.
This episode explores:
Fitting the customer
How Liz is completely revamping Conscious Clothing’s pattern library to better fit their customers
The process behind extending their sizing from XS-XL to XS-6X.
How their small team things about customer service
Fitting the lifestyle
How founders Doug and Rose built the business from the ground up to realize the life they wanted together
What they changed to keep the growing business from taking over their life
How a years-long season of grief forced Doug to make big changes in the business
Why sustainability is just as much about the lifestyle of the team than it is about the products they are making
How they are balancing R&D with production
Fitting the values
Why organic and natural fibers and made-in-USA production are important to Conscious Clothing
How the industry and consumer values about organic clothing has changed over the 20+ years they’ve been in business
Why Doug is happy that Conscious Clothing is not as unique as it once was
People and resources mentioned in this episode:
Conscious Clothing website
Conscious Clothing Instagram
Fox fiber® - breeder and grower of organic, naturally colored cotton
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Work smarter, not harder. That is what the high achieving women who wear Luxeire’s technical tailored button-ups are doing and what mother-daughter co-founders Gina Kuyers and Margot Adams do in their business as well. (Okay, sometimes they are working smart and hard). In just five years, they’ve grown the brand to 7 figures. They’re self-funding the business and the growth hasn’t come without risks. They’ve learned to experiment quickly and have found what investments pay off for them and which don’t. Their whole business is built for problem solving.
In episode 117, Gina and Margot share how they’ve focused Luxeire’s marketing and ad strategy around what matters most to their customers, how they take risks without jeopardizing their family life, and why producing in New York city fits their business values.
Gina Kuyers: Co-Founder and CEO
The idea for Luxeire emerged from founder Gina Kuyers’ frustration with the discomfort and high maintenance of beautiful clothing. Gina, unable to find any brands that offered the perfect fit, decided to take matters into her own hands and create one. With a 20-year career and a PhD in school psychology, Gina had spent decades applying research to real-world problem solving. She used this expertise to identify a significant gap in the fashion industry: the lack of stylish, comfortable, and low-maintenance clothing that fits perfectly.
Motivated by her own experiences and the needs of countless others, Gina set out to create Luxeire. Gina’s meticulous approach to research and problem-solving has been instrumental in the development of Luxeire's unique product line. She has leveraged her analytical skills to source the finest materials and employ innovative design techniques that ensure each piece is both functional and beautiful. Luxeire’s wardrobe staples are a testament to Gina’s commitment to quality, comfort, and sustainability, offering a perfect fit for modern lifestyles. Luxeire stands as a testament to her dedication to solving everyday problems with elevated, practical solutions.
Margot Adams: Co-Founder and Head of Marketing and Sales
In December 2020, Margot Adams, Gina’s daughter, joined Luxeire as the dynamic head of marketing and sales. Serving as the driving force behind the brand’s direct-to-consumer launch, Margot's leadership has been instrumental in reshaping Luxeire’s market approach. Margot attended the prestigious Parsons School of Design in New York City, where she immersed herself in business design with a special focus on marketing and sustainability.
While at Parsons, she honed her creative skills and developed a keen eye for aesthetics and trends. Her time as a marketing assistant and stylist for Sarah Flint further enriched her understanding of the fashion world, allowing her to blend practical experience with academic knowledge. This background has been instrumental in shaping Luxeire’s brand identity, infusing it with innovative marketing strategies and a strong emphasis on sustainable practices.
Margot’s creative vision and strategic insight have been pivotal in elevating Luxeire's market presence, ensuring the brand resonates with contemporary consumers who value both style and sustainability. Her ability to merge creative artistry with business insights continues to be a driving force behind Luxeire’s success.
This episode explores:
Fitting the customer
Who the Luxeire customer is
The problems with classic tailoring that Gina and Margot set out to solve
How Margot focused Luxeire’s whole marketing and ad strategy around what matters most to their customers
Why it all started with a problem and one special fabric
Fitting the lifestyle
How Gina and Margot take risks without jeopardizing their family life
Gina and Margot’s vision for success
What Gina’s business plan looked like when she first started versus now
What has worked and not worked for Luxeire when it comes to hiring help
Fitting the values
Why producing in New York city fits Luxeire’s business values
What sustainability looks like in Luxeire’s products and business
People and resources mentioned in this episode:
Luxeire website
Luxeire Instagram
Do you want fashion business tips and resources like this sent straight to your inbox? Sign up for the How Fitting newsletter to receive new podcast episodes plus daily content on creating fashion that fits your customer, lifestyle, and values.
If you’ve ever dreamed of having your products in stores but are hesitant to dip your toes into retail because of high overhead, lower wholesale margins, or lack of retail experience, Elizabeth Solomeina has a solution.
In episode 116, Elizabeth shares her refreshingly different approach to retail. Her multi-city retail space and press showroom, Flying Solo, is designed just for independent designers to grow their brands and community. It is a collaborative retail space where designers get to control how their collection is presented, get feedback directly from customers, and make higher margins without the traditionally long wholesale lead times.
Elizabeth Solomeina is the co-founder of Flying Solo, a revolutionary fashion retail and PR platform based in New York and Paris. With a background in design and entrepreneurship, Elizabeth has built one of the most influential independent fashion platforms in the world — supporting thousands of emerging brands over the years and redefining how fashion reaches the market.
This episode explores:
Fitting the customer
Who the Flying Solo customer is
How Flying Solo presents diverse designers, collections, fits, and sizing cohesively to customers
The future of retail amidst today’s gloomy retail headlines
Fitting the lifestyle
What Elizabeth and her team look in the designer they stock
How brands can best prepare for a successful retail experience
How creatives can thrive by working together
How Flying Solo’s retail model gives so much more freedom and flexibility to designers
Fitting the values
Why Elizabeth believes so strongly in the value of collaboration and community
The benefits of creative experimentation for designers
People and resources mentioned in this episode:
Flying Solo website
Flying Solo Instagram
Elizabeth’s LinkedIn
Do you want fashion business tips and resources like this sent straight to your inbox? Sign up for the How Fitting newsletter to receive new podcast episodes plus daily content on creating fashion that fits your customer, lifestyle, and values.
When your brand focuses on a specific body shape, creating clothes that fit is fairly easy. But what if you are designing for specific psychographics instead of demographics? What does fit look like then? Heidi Keil is the founder of Humble Hearts Clergy Apparel. She designs clothes for female pastors and chaplains – which is super niched on both faith values and vocation, not necessarily body type. Manufacturing clothes and a business that fits has been a prayer-filled journey for Heidi, but she serves in this way because she loves it.
In episode 115, hear how Heidi arrived at a size chart and a size range that fits the pastors she serves, why Heidi started Humble Hearts as a business but it’s turned into more of a hobby within her lifestyle, and how Heidi’s faith values and favorite bible verse inspire her humble approach to running her brand.
Heidi began designing clergy apparel, at the request of her pastor, when she was a student in an Apparel Design program. It was something Heidi continued to offer, somewhat sporadically, while working in the costume shop at The Guthrie Theater following graduation. When the theater closed due to the pandemic in 2020 she turned her time and attention to creating a line of clergy apparel (mainly due to her own need for something to fill her time). Gradually, with the help of family, friends, past instructors and work contacts she slowly developed an online presence. Humble Hearts Clergy Apparel is in its 5th year.
Where does the name come from? "...live a life worthy of the calling you have received. Be completely humble and gentle; be patient, bearing with one another in love." Ephesians 4:1-2
Heidi shares: "This small business has been a wonderful way to blend my interest in fashion and apparel design with my faith."
This episode explores:
Fitting the customer
The number of iterations it took to get the Humble Hearts size chart and size range right
The things Heidi had to learn when she switched from her costume shop job to manufacturing clothing for Humble Hearts
How Heidi learned what details and functionality are important for clergy apparel
What changed when Heidi realized she didn’t have to do everything herself
Fitting the lifestyle
Why Humble Hearts started out as a business and has now become more of a hobby for Heidi
How Heidi’s season of life allows her the time flexibility to run Humble Hearts
How those around Heidi support her in this business
The activity that has the biggest impact on sales for Humble Hearts
Fitting the values
Heidi’s humble approach to running her brand
How the liturgical calendar affects Humble Hearts’ selling season
How Heidi’s work with Humble Hearts serves a greater purpose
People and resources mentioned in this episode:
Humble Hearts Clergy Apparel website
Humble Hearts Clergy Apparel Instagram
Heidi’s email
Do you want fashion business tips and resources like this sent straight to your inbox? Sign up for the How Fitting newsletter to receive new podcast episodes plus daily content on creating fashion that fits your customer, lifestyle, and values.
What would you be willing to do to better serve your customers and mission? Paloma Soledad, a three-time stage IV cancer survivor and founder of LuxCare, is making some big changes in her business to help women going through medical treatments feel more like themselves and less like a patient. In episode 114, she tells the careful details and entrepreneurial journey that has gone into creating LuxCare’s stylish and medically accessible clothing.
Paloma Soledad is a fashion designer and three-time cancer survivor. Inspired by her journey with stage IV cancer, Paloma created LuxCare, a gifting platform, and line of clothing designed to help individuals facing medical challenges feel more like themselves. LuxCare offers adaptive garments, including headscarves for those experiencing hair loss, and versatile clothing that blends comfort, style, and medical functionality. Her brand focuses on sustainability, timeless styles, custom prints, and high-quality fabrics.
Paloma's career highlights include designing for films such as "Coraline," receiving the "Best Emerging Designer" award at Portland Fashion Week, and being named one of Entertainment Weekly’s “Eight Costume Designers turned Fashion Headliner.” Her work has appeared in SPIN Magazine, L'Officiel, Photobook Magazine, and on electronic billboards in Times Square.
With a commitment to slow fashion and environmental sustainability, LuxCare uses certified organic fabrics and continually seeks innovative materials. Paloma's designs are crafted to uplift and empower, offering both comfort and elegance. Raised in Hawaii, her design aesthetics were shaped by the natural wonders around her, instilling a deep respect for the planet's limited resources. Mostly self-taught, she learned from her mother as a child and honed her skills on the job. Today, Paloma seamlessly integrates beauty and craftsmanship into her fashion projects, significantly enriching the lives of those she designs for.
This episode explores:
Fitting the customer
The LuxCare clothing details that made Paloma feel less like a cancer patient
The thoughtful details from design to packaging that provide care to each customer
How Paloma knew that it was time for a rebrand
What Paloma wished she’d thought about before choosing a brand name
Why gifting is a big part of the LuxCare brand
Fitting the lifestyle
The mental shifts needed to go from making everything yourself to producing at a factory
How Paloma moved from costuming in the film industry to designing fashion apparel
What Paloma had to learn when she transitioned from designer to entrepreneur
Fitting the values
Why Paloma compromised on her values to better serve LuxCare’s mission
People and resources mentioned in this episode:
LuxCare website
LuxCare Instagram
Paloma’s LinkedIn
FabScrap - textile reuse and recycling
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We’ve all been burned by an online clothing purchase that didn’t live up to its promised fit and quality. It is no wonder that women who don’t fit standard-size charts are hesitant to purchase from a new brand online. This is the challenge that AAM The Label CEO and founder Neha Samdaria has overcome within her brand that designs for pear-shaped women with fuller hips and thighs. In episode 113, Neha shares exactly what she did to build trust with her customers and factory, keep return rates super low, get stocked in Nordstrom, and have Buzzfeed and Forbes editors writing raving reviews.
Neha Samdaria is the founder of Aam The Label, a sustainable fashion brand for the ~25% of women with fuller hips and thighs than the standard size chart. Founded based on her own experience as a pear-shaped woman and bootstrapped entirely from her savings, the brand is now available at Nordstrom and has been featured in Forbes and Cosmopolitan. Neha holds an MBA from Stanford and a Bachelor's In Science from Caltech.
This episode explores:
Fitting the customer
How Neha created her own unique size chart for AAM The Label that focuses on body shape more than size
How Neha conducts fit testing to make sure she gets the best fit for her brand and not just the individual fit models
How AAM The Label got placement in Nordstrom
Fitting the lifestyle
The exact things Neha did to build trust with customers online
How AAM The Label had to adjust to make wholesale work
Neha’s original goals and timeline for business success and how her goals are different now
The pros and cons of retail and wholesale
The biggest mistake Neha made starting out
Fitting the values
What AAM’s values of fit, quality, and sustainability & ethics look like in practice
How Neha found her factory, patternmaker, designer, and sample makers
People and resources mentioned in this episode:
AAM The Label website
AAM The Label Instagram
AAM The Label email
Neha’s LinkedIn
AAM The Label on Faire - wholesale marketplace
Traction: How Any Startup Can Achieve Explosive Customer Growth book by Gabriel Weinberg and Justin Mares
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What if clothes not only reflected the beauty and personality of the wearer, but brought together the skills, people, and livelihoods of a whole community? This is why Kristina Collins is passionate about producing her brand of jackets and sweaters in the USA as locally as possible. In episode 112, hear how she has focused her creativity and her sourcing to connect the community around her. This priority brings challenges, but also many opportunities to her fashion business. Kristina shares her transparent philosophy as well as her tips for brands wanting to set up a local supply chain of their own.
Kristina Collins clothing is women's jackets, blazers, and sweaters designed and made in the USA. Our mission is stand-out, high-quality garments that are sourced and made with our local community at heart.
This episode explores:
Fitting the customer
Why made in the USA is important to Kristina and her brand
Why Kristina narrowed her offerings to just jackets and sweaters
The dilemma with pricing products as a small brand
Fitting the lifestyle & business
How Kristina Collins navigates the seasonality of a Fall/Winter focused brand
How Kristina is adjusting her design and production schedules to accommodate wholesale in 2025
The production model that is working for Kristina Collins
Why Kristina recommends working with individuals instead of a full-package factory or agency when developing your brands first products
Fitting the values
The challenges and benefits of fitting your values in your fashion business
How to make local manufacturing and production connections
The types of fabrics and fibers that are easy to source in the USA
Whether sample sales or resale hurt a brand’s reputation
People and resources mentioned in this episode:
Kristina Collins website
Kristina Collins Instagram
Kristina Collins LinkedIn
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More and more in today’s fashion industry, women are the ones in charge and designing for themselves instead of for some unrealistic societal ideal. Kimberly Becker is doing this and going a step further for women’s rights with her brand K. Becker. In episode 111, hear how politics, feminism, and sustainability guide her work and how she’s using fashion to give back to causes that support women across the globe.
Kimberly started this journey as a Textile Major at RISD. After graduating, she worked in the garment district of Manhattan for about a decade off and on – beginning at Liz Claiborne, and then moving to upholstery fabric design, always focused on designing the fabrics. Kimberly’s time at Liz Claiborne gave her priceless experience, both about how the business was run and also in getting exposure to the suppliers and manufacturers from around the world.
Fast forward 25 years and she is creating art focused on women's rights. Her House Dresses and Dolls for Change were both discussions about how women are still facing an uphill battle in the world. Someone asked her why she wasn't designing clothing. They loved the way the dolls Kimberly was making were dressed. It took about 6 months for Kimberly to find the courage to try. That decision was life-changing. She’s one year in and the brand is settling into the collection and message she feels fits what she was aiming for.
K.Becker is a collection of sustainable pretty things that fit and flatters real women's bodies. Empowering women is vital. When we feel beautiful we are a force. All clothing is sewn in NYC, and knit in Brooklyn and the company is an all-women team. Kimberly donates 5% of all profits to women-focused causes.
In this episode, you’ll learn:
The two sides of feminism in fashion and where Kimberly sees both in the industry today
How politics and women’s rights activism sparked the idea for K. Becker
Why Kimberly moved away from describing her brand as petite
The thing that Kimberly asks her focus groups of women to bring
The balance between being too corporate and too personal as a brand
The core message and values that guide K. Becker
How Kimberly met her factory and patternmaker
The importance of consistency
Why Kimberly doesn’t like to use blended fiber materials
How Kimberly’s background in textiles influences her fabric and apparel design decisions
People and resources mentioned in this episode:
K. Becker website (use code "Fitting20" for a 20% discount!)
K. Becker Instagram
Kimberly’s email
Kimberly’s LinkedIn
Jane Hamill - Fashion Brain Academy - fashion business coach
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Classical music is rooted in rich history, formality, and tradition - but does the musicians’ concert attire still have to be? Blackstrad founder and professional flutist Mercedes Smith thinks it is time for a change of pace in performance wardrobes. In episode 110, hear how she is designing new concert black attire that resonates with the individuality of modern musicians while keeping the harmony of a unified ensemble.
Mercedes Smith has served as the Principal Flutist of the Utah Symphony since 2012, having previously held the same position with the Houston Grand Opera and Houston Ballet Orchestras.
She has performed in Carnegie Hall, throughout Europe and Asia, and at renowned music festivals including the Grand Teton Music Festival, Tanglewood, Music Academy of the West, Verbier Festival Orchestra, and Marlboro.
Never one to idle, Mercedes turned the pandemic into an opportunity, obtaining a real estate license and earning an M.B.A. from the University of Utah. Her latest endeavor is the creation of Blackstrad, a line of concert attire designed for the modern musician. She resides in Salt Lake City with her husband and three very silly dogs.
In this episode, you’ll learn:
The role fashion plays in music performance
The challenges musicians face in finding concert attire
The gender inequality of concert dress codes (it's not what you think)
How Mercedes got started on her brand
How to know when a design is done and get over perfectionism
What surprised Mercedes by how difficult it was
Why Mercedes wishes she had trusted her patternmaker more
Why Mercedes doesn’t like the term “sustainability”
The unique business model of Blackstrad
Mercedes’ plans for Blackstrad and her own future
People and resources mentioned in this episode:
Blackstrad website
Blackstrad Instagram
Blackstrad email
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Sourcing fabrics that fit their design, values, and budget is one of the biggest challenges designers face in making their designs a reality. It is such a relief when you can find a fabric supplier you can count on to grow your business. In episode 109, meet Thomas Oviedo, the Sales Manager at Carr Textile. In our conversation, he breaks down Carr’s fabric offerings, printing services, and rigorous quality testing process. Thomas also shares a list of questions to ask fabric suppliers to determine which fabric is the right fit for your project. Whether you are looking for 1yd or upwards of 10,000yds, Carr is here to help.
Thomas Oviedo is the Sales Manager at Carr Textile Corporation, a leading name in stock fabric programs, digital printing on all fibers, and cap component manufacturing.
With over 23 years of extensive experience in the textile industry across various sectors, Thomas has developed a deep understanding of market dynamics and customer needs.
With a remarkable 51 years in business, Carr Textile has established itself as a one-stop shop, offering an extensive range of fabric options and services to meet the diverse needs of the industry. Carr Textile boasts a current stock inventory exceeding 6 million yards, all available with no minimum order requirements, making it a go-to resource for customers.
Recently, Carr Textile acquired Philips-Boyne, a fine woven shirting company based in New York. This strategic acquisition positions Carr Textile to better serve various segments of the apparel industry, further enhancing its market reach.
In this episode, you’ll learn:
The innovative printing services Carr Textile offers within their TexTerra division
The pros, cons, and costs of different printing methods
What types of fabrics Carr Textile offers and specializes in
Where Carr produces and stocks their fabrics
The extensive fabric testing Carr Textile does in-house to ensure quality and consistency
The ways Carr Textile supports brands from start-up to large corporate
Good questions to ask your fabric supplier
Thomas’ outlook on the effects of potential tariff increases
The eco-friendly fabric lines and printing processes Carr offers
People and resources mentioned in this episode:
Carr Textile website
Carr Textile Instagram
Thomas’ email
Thomas’ LinkedIn
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Which is the bigger adventure: alpine skiing or starting a fashion brand? For Alta Reina founder Suzi Zook, they each provide their own set of thrills and challenges. In episode 108, Suzi tells of the peaks and valleys of starting her outdoor apparel brand made to fit tall women. From navigating sustainable sourcing of performance fabrics to overcoming pre-production self-doubt, Suzi is gearing up (in fun colors) for the long run.
Suzi Zook is the engine behind Alta Reina, a clothing brand focused on high-quality, responsibly sourced materials and U.S. manufacturing. Tailored for tall women, Alta Reina offers vibrant, functional clothing with practical details like pockets, combining style and functionality for women who need more than the standard fit.
Suzi holds a B.S. in Family and Consumer Sciences from Oregon State University, with a minor in music. A former rugby player and team president, she later became an assistant coach after graduation. Suzi has also worked as a substitute teacher in Oregon and Washington. After her time at REI, she pursued a graduate degree in Elementary Education from USC's Rossier School of Education.
Suzi’s seven-year tenure at REI gave her extensive experience across a variety of roles, including repairs, rentals, customer service, footwear, and marketing. Her marketing work involved creating promotional videos and making guest appearances on morning talk shows to promote outdoor recreation and REI products. Through her work at REI, she developed a deep understanding of how clothing and shoes fit and perform, helping customers find apparel that suits their bodies.
At 5’11", Suzi has always faced challenges finding clothing that fits her athletic frame. After years of crafting her own clothes, marrying a 6’10" partner, and raising two tall daughters, she realized the need for a brand that catered to women like her. The struggles her family faced finding well-fitting winter gear and swimsuits inspired the launch of Alta Reina (originally considered "Mountain Amazon").
In 2020, Suzi explored the market potential for a tall women's outdoor brand at the Outdoor Retailer trade show. Although the concept garnered interest, the COVID-19 pandemic delayed her plans. After recovering and caring for her family, Suzi enrolled in the Factory 45 mentorship program. Over the next two years, she sourced fabrics and U.S.-based manufacturers, overcoming setbacks like factories pivoting away from small designers. Eventually, she found a manufacturing partner in The Bronx, NY, and launched Alta Reina’s first line of base layers in Fall 2024.
Suzi is committed to ethical production, opposing fast fashion and ensuring fair treatment of workers. While polyester is used for its durability and protection, she is dedicated to responsible sourcing. Her journey is fueled by a passion for creating stylish, functional clothing for tall women.
Outside of work, Suzi continues to substitute teach and enjoys Nordic and alpine skiing, yoga, swimming, horseback riding, hiking, and mountain biking. She also sews and adds personal touches to her wardrobe.
In this episode, you’ll learn:
What didn’t fit about existing outdoor apparel in the market
What is so special about niche brands
How she got feedback on her brand concept before starting anything
Why Suzi prefers to DIY many things in her business
The point she realized she needed more education and accountability
How Suzi is funding Alta Reina
The point in development that scared her and how her husband’s advice helped her move forward
How Suzi got connected with her patternmaker (me) and her factory
The factors that influenced what products she started with
How Alta Reina balances sustainability with performance
People and resources mentioned in this episode:
Alta Reina website
Alta Reina Instagram
Outdoor Retailer trade show
Factory 45 sustainable fashion brand accelerator
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With age, comes wisdom - and also change. Women 50+ years old are often overlooked by the fashion industry, but Birdie & Claire founder Julie Corwin celebrates style at every age. As these women go through transitions in their lives and bodies, Julie’s business has changed as well. In episode 107, Julie shares how her brand has stayed flexible and draws inspiration from the experience of women who have come before her.
Julie is the founder and owner of Birdie & Claire, an independent women’s apparel brand dedicated to timeless, elevated style for women at every stage of life. The inspiration for Birdie & Claire came when Julie was shopping with her mom, aunt, and grandmother for an upcoming family wedding, and she noticed the limited age-inclusive clothing options available. Hearing their frustration about the lack of brands catering to women as they age inspired Julie to create a line that celebrates timeless style and confidence across generations.
After completing her MBA, Julie launched Birdie & Claire, producing thoughtfully designed small-batch collections in NYC, with knitwear sustainably crafted on demand in Brooklyn. Birdie & Claire’s focus on versatile, flattering pieces that mix and match seamlessly is rooted in the brand’s mission to create clothing that resonates with women of all ages and offers style, comfort, and quality that is made to last.
In this episode, you’ll learn:
How Birdie & Claire defines age-appropriateness
How Julie designs and runs her business with change in mind
Where Julie gathered research outside of customer interviews and what it revealed
The silver lining of starting her brand during the peak of the pandemic
Why Julie decided to offer both knitwear and cut & sew pieces in her brand
Why Birdie & Claire’s first collection was more casual when the initial idea was for eventwear
What Julie did to better understand the language of fashion
The stereotypes about and the diversity amongst women age 50+
How Birdie & Claire supports Julie in her current stage of life
The wisdom Julie has learned from older women
People and resources mentioned in this episode:
Birdie & Claire website
Birdie & Claire Instagram
Julie’s Email
Wiser Than Me podcast
Fashion Reimagined documentary
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In episode 106, Erin shares how conversations have shaped their brand and how she turns those insights into empathetic action. It was after decades in the industry at big-name brands like Nike, Converse, and Nordstrom that Erin and her co-founder realized just how hard it is for plus-size women to find clothes that fit after an elevator conversation with a co-worker. That conversation sparked others that began Erin and Yi’s entrepreneurial journey as the founders of See ROSE Go.
Accomplished Chief Merchandising Officer with over 20 years of industry experience leading innovative strategies across fashion and retail, Erin’s career began as a Nordstrom buyer. It was with Nordstrom that Erin discovered her passion for enhancing the customer experience, through empathy and an in-depth understanding of the customer’s point of view.
Nike Inc. recruited Erin to lead an Outlet division for Men’s, Women’s, and Kid’s Apparel and Accessories. She was quickly promoted to direct Men’s Apparel Merchandising for the Asia Pacific / China region. More recently, she drove significant growth in women’s apparel, optimizing product lines and achieving exceptional GM% as the Global Women’s Merchandising Director. In these roles, Erin remained consumer-centric, leading insight strategy and product creation to enhance the overall customer experience through superior products.
In 2018, Erin co-founded See ROSE Go, a plus-size fashion brand with an ethos in intentional design, innovation, and mindful sustainability. Leading merchandising strategy, omni-channel distribution, and business development, Erin also successfully secured VC funding as a new founder with a newborn at home. In 2021, See ROSE Go received an honorable mention in Fast Company’s Innovation by Design Awards for the proprietary tech/lifestyle fabric, CoolROSE™. In 2023 Erin received a U.S. Patent for this fabric. CoolROSE™ was invented as a direct response to issues women deal with but seldom speak about - body heat, sweat, and pilling from friction between body parts.
Erin and See ROSE Go have been recognized by Forbes, CBS Money, and WWD for challenging industry norms. She was recently featured with her Co-Founder, Yi Zhou, in Authority Magazine as female disruptors shaking up their industry. It is the See ROSE Go mission to see women embrace their power and “go”. To Erin, style isn’t just how a woman looks, it is how she moves and feels and the impact she makes while wearing See ROSE Go. Get to know more about Erin and See ROSE Go at, https://seerosego.com/blogs/meet-the-founders
In this episode, you’ll learn:
How co-founders Erin and Yi start and continue conversations with women in their target market
How Erin organizes the insights from each conversation and breaks them down into actionable information
How Erin’s Nike background gives her a performance-focused product perspective
The market gap that See ROSE Go fills and the revelation that started it all
The process of developing and patenting their CoolROSE fabric
How Erin stays connected with the See ROSE Go community
How Erin and Yi have funded the brand and why they’ve changed approaches over the years
What Erin is most proud of
People and resources mentioned in this episode:
See ROSE Go website (Erin shared a 20% discount with How Fitting listeners! Use code SMILE.)
See ROSE Go Instagram
Erin’s LinkedIn
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In episode 105, hear the step-by-step timeline that Ari took to design, launch, and produce her first product for her historically-inspired maternity brand Glean & Grace. In our conversation, she reveals the ways the process didn’t go as planned, but how it has been rewarding and encouraging nonetheless.
Ari is a trained tailor turned sustainable clothing designer. Ari and her husband have 2 kids, a 3 year old and an 18 month old. She uses historic patterning and modern design to create beautifully functional clothing for mothers who want to feel like themselves again.
In this episode, you’ll learn:
How working with a factory was different than Ari expected
How Ari got connected with her factory and fabric supplier
What Ari sent to her factory to get started
How Ari’s perspective on designing clothing changed when she started making clothes for others instead of just herself
Why historical maternity clothes are a key source of inspiration for Glean & Grace
The exact timeline it took to launch Glean & Grace’s first product
Why Ari is thankful she didn’t meet her day-of-launch goal
What Ari is planning to do differently for her next collection
People and resources mentioned in this episode:
Glean & Grace website
Glean & Grace Instagram
Motif Handmade - fair trade handwoven fabrics
Thanapara Swallows - fair trade factory
Fashion Brain Academy - Jane Hamill
Mrs. Emily brand
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