Notes from Big Trails

In this episode, I talk with Bodil Outshoorn — Product Manager at On Running for the Elite Footwear Programme, PhD in shoe grip, and passionate long-distance adventurer.Bodil and a friend ran the Via Egnatia, an ancient Roman road running 500km from Albania to Greece. They covered it in just 12 days, averaging a marathon a day through mud, mountains, and border towns.Along the way they discovered remarkable hospitality, historic cobblestones, semi-feral dogs, and a surprising amount of 7-Eleven croissants.We dive into:What it’s like to run a Roman road across three countriesCoping with food, logistics and winter weatherHow Haribo (and friendship) can get you through injuryThe moments of history and hospitality that made the trail unforgettableAnd as someone who has cycled across Albania myself, I can vouch for those croissants — they do keep you going when nothing else is on offer!

The Western Front Way is a 500-mile route tracing the line of the First World War — running from the Swiss border to the North Sea through France and Belgium.In this episode we talk to Briana Gervat, who has published a book about her experience on this trail - ⁠There Will Come Soft Rains⁠. This conversation is about her solo journey along the entire route — a 36-day walk through one of the most historically charged landscapes in Europe.Camping along the way and carrying everything she needed, Briana experienced the full rhythm of life on the trail — from mountain paths in the Vosges to the vast battlefields of Verdun, the Somme, and beyond.But this is not a typical long-distance walk.Along the route, history is ever-present — in the form of trenches, bunkers, cemeteries, and villages that were never rebuilt. Briana describes these as “architectural ghosts” — reminders of lives lost, and stories that still linger in the landscape.There are moments of heaviness — walking through fog in Verdun, camping under the same skies soldiers once slept beneath, passing through quiet towns marked by memorials.But there are also moments of connection and light: sharing food with strangers, conversations in passing, standing in front of the cathedral at Amiens, and the simple rhythm of walking day after day.Beyond the practicalities of the walk, this episode explores something deeper — how we process history, how we find peace (or don’t), and what it means to walk through a place shaped by both destruction and renewal.In this episodeWhat the Western Front Way is — and how it traces the line of WWIWalking 500 miles solo over 36 daysThe experience of solitude over a long-distance journeyWhat it feels like to walk through landscapes shaped by war“Architectural ghosts” — and seeing what others might missThe emotional weight of places like VerdunCamping, daily rhythm, and managing the physical tollEncounters with people along the wayThe contrast between destruction and beautyReflections on peace, history, and human natureAbout the trailWestern Front WayDistance: ~500 miles / 800 kmLocation: France & Belgium (Swiss border to the North Sea)Terrain: mountains, forests, farmland, canals and lowland plainsDifficulty: moderate physically, but significant due to length and emotional weightThe Western Front Way is less a traditional hiking trail and more a journey through history — offering a unique way to experience the landscapes of the First World War and reflect on their lasting impact.Find out more about solo adventures at bigtrailadventures.com.

The Rob Roy Way cuts across the heart of Scotland — a quieter long-distance trail linking Drymen to Pitlochry through forests, glens, old railway lines, and the edges of big Highland lochs.In this episode of Notes From Big Trails, Rob speaks with Pawel Cymbalista — or Pav — who set a fastest known time on the route, covering the entire trail in a single push.Moving fast through a landscape most people take a week or more to walk, Pav experienced a very different version of the trail — one shaped by rhythm, focus, and constant forward motion.Along the way there are moments that still stand out: climbing through forest above Aberfeldy, the sound of water rushing through narrow gorges, the long stretch beside Loch Tay with Ben Lawers rising through the cloud… and one very human moment outside a bakery in Callander that nearly derailed the whole effort.Beyond the pace and the performance, this is a conversation about mindset — about stubbornness, self-reliance, and the quiet internal negotiation that happens when things start to hurt.And it’s also a reminder that this trail — like all of them — isn’t just for records. It’s a route to be walked slowly, taken in properly, and experienced in your own way.In this episodeWhat the Rob Roy Way is really like underfoot — from forest tracks to old railway linesWhy Pav chose the route and how the FKT idea took holdPreparing for a solo, unsupported effortManaging discomfort, fatigue, and doubt during the runThe mental strategies that keep you moving when things get hardA navigational wobble, a stunning gorge, and a near-miss with a bakeryHow the trail changes as you move south towards DrymenWhy this is a route worth doing at a slower paceWhat FKTs mean — and why they don’t always matterAbout the trailDistance: ~79 miles / 127 kmLocation: Central Scotland (Drymen to Pitlochry)Terrain: forest tracks, estate paths, quiet roads, old railway lines, lochside pathsDifficulty: moderate — non-technical, but with steady climbing throughoutThe Rob Roy Way is one of Scotland’s lesser-known long-distance trails, offering a quieter alternative to routes like the West Highland Way — with fewer crowds, easier terrain, and a strong sense of journey through the landscape.Find out more about long-distance walking and running adventures at bigtrailadventures.com.

The Anglesey Coast Path circles the entire Isle of Anglesey — a 130-mile trail that traces one of the most varied and quietly beautiful coastlines in Wales.In this episode of Notes from Big Trails, Rob speaks with Nicola about her solo walk around the island — completed over two long weekends and mostly spent sleeping under the stars in a bivvy bag.Travelling light with a 4.3-kilogram base weight and no fixed itinerary, Nicola followed the rhythm of the trail: walking long days, camping wherever the landscape allowed, and letting the coastline dictate the pace.Along the way she discovered empty beaches, dramatic cliffs, ancient history, and unexpected wildlife encounters — from dolphins crossing a quiet bay to a weasel pausing in the road to stare her down.The Anglesey Coast Path proved to be one of the most peaceful sections of the Wales Coast Path Nicola has walked so far — a place where solitude, curiosity and the simple act of moving through the landscape combine into something quietly magical.Beyond the miles themselves, the conversation explores the deeper appeal of solo walking: the clarity it can bring to busy lives, the confidence that comes from solving small problems along the way, and the sense that wild places allow us to reconnect with a more natural way of thinking.What the Anglesey Coast Path is really like underfootWalking the entire island solo over two long weekendsBivvy camping and travelling with an ultralight packWildlife encounters — from dolphins and seals to an inquisitive weaselDiscovering hidden campsites along wild stretches of coastlineWhy long-distance solo walking can bring clarity and confidenceThe quiet magic that makes Anglesey feel different from other coastal trailsDistance: ~130 miles / 210 kmLocation: Isle of Anglesey, North WalesTerrain: coastal paths, grassy cliffs, beaches and quiet country lanesDifficulty: moderate, with frequent short climbs along the coastThe Anglesey Coast Path forms part of the Wales Coast Path, a continuous trail that follows the entire Welsh coastline.Because the route circles the island, it’s easy to start and finish in the same place — making it a popular choice for walkers looking for a self-contained coastal adventure.Anglesey is known for its wild beaches, historic sites and peaceful atmosphere, with highlights including South Stack cliffs, Newborough Forest, and countless quiet coves scattered along the coastline.For more information visit bigtrailadventures.com.

The Pembrokeshire Coast Path is one of Britain’s most dramatic long-distance walks, stretching along the wild Atlantic edge of West Wales.In this episode of Notes From Big Trails, Rob speaks with Sophie McCarthy about her fifteen-day solo walk along the entire route.Carrying everything she needed on her back and camping along the way, Sophie experienced the full rhythm of life on the trail — from remote wild camps and windswept cliffs to small harbour towns and the occasional well-earned pub meal.Along the way she encountered wildflowers in full summer bloom, dramatic coastal scenery, seals in the sea… and one rather inquisitive badger that paid her tent a late-night visit.Beyond the practicalities of the walk, Sophie reflects on why she enjoys putting herself into challenging environments and how experiences like this can remind us that we’re capable of more than we think.In this episodeWhat the Pembrokeshire Coast Path is really like underfootWalking the entire trail solo over 15 daysCampsites, wild camping and carrying a heavy packWildlife encounters along the Welsh coastThe joys of small trail luxuries — from ice cream to harbour-side pubsWhy long walks can change how you see your own capabilitiesAbout the trailDistance: ~186 miles / 300 kmLocation: West WalesTerrain: cliff paths, coastal grassland, beaches and rugged headlandsDifficulty: moderate to challenging due to constant ascent and descentThe trail forms part of the Wales Coast Path and is widely regarded as one of the finest coastal walks in Europe.Find out more about solo adventures at bigtrailadventures.com.

What does “solo adventure” really look like?In this episode, Rob speaks with Elise Downing and Kirsty Reade about hiking and running alone — not in remote wilderness for months on end, but in the more familiar, human space of big days out, multi-day trails, and personal challenges.Together they explore:What first pushed them to go aloneThe fears that show up before you set off (yes, including axe murderers)The difference between real risk and mental noiseHow running versus walking changes the experienceUnexpected encounters on the trail — from sea shanties in Scotland to chance friendships in the LakesThe small practical steps that make solo trips safer and more enjoyableAnd perhaps most importantly, the feeling at the end of a long day — when you realise you did it yourself.Find out more about solo adventures at bigtrailadventures.com.

In this episode, Morgan shares his experience walking sections of the South West Coast Path — a 630-mile route tracing the coastline of south-west England.We cover:Why he chose the Coast Path during a difficult period in his lifeThe accessibility of the route and how easy it is to join by trainThe Jurassic Coast and its dramatic geologyWhy the South West Coast Path can feel surprisingly remoteWhat a typical day on the trail looks likeConversations that stuck with him, including:Two soaked bivvy-baggers caught in a stormA solo woman walking the entire route using all her annual leaveFood highlights — including a cream tea cooked on a stove in the middle of nowhereThe River Erme crossing near MothecombeWhat to leave out of your packThe importance of knowing your experience levelMorgan also talks about documenting his journeys on social media — and the tension between capturing the moment and simply living it.See more from Morgan on Instagram.

In this episode of Notes from Big Trails, Rob speaks to Jon Barton, founder of Vertebrate Publishing, about walking — and running — the Pennine Way.They explore why the Pennine Way divides opinion, what the early sections across Kinder and Bleaklow are really like, and why places such as High Cup Nick, Upper Teesdale, Cross Fell and the Cheviots leave such a strong impression.Jon reflects on:Growing up visiting Swaledale and Upper TeesdaleHow childhood landscapes shaped his wanderlustExperiencing the Pennine Way through the Spine eventsThe reality of “boggy” sections and bleak reputationsWildlife encounters — curlews, golden plover, roe deerLimestone country around MalhamThe strange surreal feeling of walking through busy places after days on the moorWhy motivation matters more than raw fitnessThey also discuss practical considerations — kit familiarity, pacing, and whether the Pennine Way should be your first long-distance trail.

Martyn Howe talks to us about how he walked the coast of England - following what has become the King Charles III England Coast Path.Martyn shares:How the walk began with a single acorn waymarker in CromerWhat it’s like to stitch together a coastal path that was still being completedUnexpectedly wild places like The Wash, where land and sea seem to dissolveIndustrial coastlines in the North East — and the surprising signs of recovery thereMemorable encounters with birdlife, including kestrels, peregrines, and wintering geeseWhy public art along the coast — from Time and Tide bells to community projects — became central to the journeyThe idea of an “experience map” rather than a route map, and how that changes how you plan and walkHow carrying less — physically and mentally — altered his relationship with long-distance walkingWhether walking can still act as a form of protest or environmental witnessThe kinds of conversations that only seem to happen when two people are walking side by sideWe also talk about Martyn’s book The Coast is Our Compass, and how writing became a way of processing the journey — not just recording where he went, but what it meant. Links:The Coast is Our CompassExperience MapMore trail Inspiration at Big Trail Adventures

In this episode of Notes from Big Trails, Rob is joined by Peak District local and author Anna Paxton for a walk-and-talk on the Eastern Moors.Anna’s book, Peak Bagging Peak District, brings together 121 of the region’s most rewarding hills — including the Ethels — into 32 carefully designed routes for walkers, fastpackers, and trail runners.Rather than treating summits as boxes to tick, the book focuses on routes that feel satisfying in their own right: journeys with variety, character, good access, and (where possible) a pub or café at the end.What people miss when they only visit Peak District classicsWho Ethel Haythornthwaite was — and why the Ethels matterDesigning routes that work on the ground, not just on the mapWalking, running, slowing down — and choosing the right pace for the dayQuiet encounters, wildlife, and seasonal changeWhy familiarity can be just as adventurous as noveltyGet Peak Bagging Peak District at Vertebrate Publishing.Find inspiration for your next adventure at Big Trail Adventures.

Janie Oates joins Notes from Big Trails to talk about a self-designed running adventure across the Canary Islands.Starting with a race trip to Gran Canaria, Janie and three friends came up with the idea of running across multiple islands — Tenerife, La Palma and La Gomera — using ferries to link them together. Over the course of a week, they crossed volcanic landscapes, climbed ridgelines above the clouds, stayed in unmanned mountain refuges, and carried everything they needed between towns.In this episode, we talk about:Designing your own route rather than following a known trailRunning across three islands in one week — and what that really involvedThe contrast between Tenerife’s heat and tourism, La Palma’s high ridges, and La Gomera’s cloud forestsManaging water, food and pack weight in hot, exposed terrainFell running skills and long days of climbing and descentWhy La Palma left such a lasting impressionTravelling and running as a group of women — and the reactions they met along the wayThis is a conversation about curiosity, contrast, and the quiet satisfaction of linking places together under your own power. Enjoy!

Stephen and Richard Ross from Big Trail Adventures walked the Alta Via 1 in mid-September, one of Europe’s most celebrated high routes across the Dolomites.In this episode, we cover:What the Alta Via 1 actually is — and why it’s known as a “high route”How hard it really is, day to dayPlanning late versus booking far in advanceWhat it’s like staying in Italian mountain refuges (food, showers, dorms, sleep)How busy the trail felt — and when it suddenly didn’tCarrying light: why 5kg made the experience betterManaging long, hot days with big climbsSwimming in lakes and rivers to reset mid-routeWho you meet on the trail — from first-timers to seasoned alpinistsHow the Alta Via compares to more familiar Alpine routesWhether this trip changed how they think about future European trailsThis is an honest conversation about walking in the Dolomites — what surprised them, what worked, and what they’d do differently next time.

In this episode, Rob sits down with Jennifer Stevens (Tiny Pine Outdoors) to discuss her solo journey across the Cotswold Way in the summer of 2024. Stretching 102 miles from Chipping Campden to the Roman city of Bath , the trail offers a unique blend of "picture-postcard" scenery and deep, ancient history.Key Discussion Points:The Reality of the Terrain: Why the "gentle rolling hills" can be more physically demanding than you think.Historical Immersion: Engaging with Neolithic long barrows, 17th-century market halls, and even the local tradition of "shin-kicking".Solo Hiking & Safety: Jennifer’s experience navigating the trail solo and using public transport to reach the start.Accommodation: Why Jennifer opted for Shepherd’s huts and camping pods over wild camping on this specific route.Trail Magic: A magical sunset in a field of friendly sheep and the "otherworldly" silence of Stanton.Advice for Beginners: Why the Cotswold Way is the perfect entry point for multi-day hiking.Links Mentioned:Watch Jennifer’s journey on the Tiny Pine Outdoors YouTube channel.Do this trip for yourself at Big Trail Adventures

Hannah Campbell set out to run a long section of the Munich-to-Venice trail — known as Der Traumpfad, or The Dreamway — travelling solo from the Bavarian Alps, through Austria, and into the Italian Dolomites.Over 15 days, Hannah covered around 450km, averaging roughly 30km per day, staying almost exclusively in mountain huts and carrying everything she needed in a 20-litre pack. What she expected to be a late-summer journey turned into something very different, with early snow, freezing temperatures, and days spent navigating deep alpine conditions.In this episode, we talk about:* Why Hannah chose the Munich-to-Dolomites route* What the first few kilometres felt like — and how quickly conditions changed* How the landscape, culture and hut life shifted as she moved east* Life in mountain huts: shared meals, late arrivals* Dealing with snow and weather delays* Carrying minimal kit — and the one non-outdoor item she wouldn’t be without* Being told repeatedly that what she was doing was “irresponsible” — and trusting her own judgement* The strange sensory overload of finishing the run and stepping straight into Venice* Why this journey mattered to her personally, without defining her by itThis is a grounded, thoughtful conversation about long solo journeys — not as endurance spectacles, but as lived experiences shaped by weather, people, rhythm and perspective.

In this episode of Notes from Big Trails, Rob speaks with Mel Sykes about completing the winter Spine Race — a 268-mile, non-stop race along the Pennine Way in January.Mel talks about:What makes the winter Spine fundamentally different from long summer ultrasMoving for days in darkness and learning to manage sleep deprivationHallucinations, emotional swings, and the strange logic of extreme fatigueThe Pennine Way as a place — hostile, boring, beautiful, and absorbingSmall acts of kindness that land differently when you’re exhaustedWhy reaching Hadrian’s Wall and Cross Fell mattered so muchThe reality of finishing: relief, exhaustion, and delayed prideWhat events like this teach you — and what they’re often misunderstood to be aboutThis is a conversation about endurance, attention, and keeping going.Read more about Mel's Spine Race here:https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/articles/c4gz2e12387ohttps://www.baldhiker.com/the-spine-race-adventures/Plan your own recce with Big Trail Adventures.

In this episode we talk to Richard Newsome — Mountain Bothies Association volunteer, responsible for Rohoish Bothy and involved in wider MBA work across the West Highland Way.What we cover:Why bothies create such a strong emotional pull for walkersWhat actually happens on a maintenance visitThe strangest things Richard has found behind a bothy doorVandalism, rubbish, winter conditions — and why none of it has put him offMemorable nights: Burns Night in a bothy and strangers who become friendsThe story of how the West Highland Way led Richard to move to Scotland and meet his wifeThe one thing every first-time bothy visitor should knowMentioned:Rowchoish BothyStrathcailleach (Cape Wrath)Greg’s Hut (Cross Fell, Pennine Way)Mountain Bothies Association (MBA)

A father and son take on the Alpine Crossing of the E5 — the section that starts in Germany, crosses Austria, and finishes in Italy. It’s six days of demanding terrain, high passes, long descents and huge scenery. In this conversation, Andy and Scott talk through:What the E5 actually is (and why most people only walk the Alpine bit) Their tough but brilliant first two days: steep climbs, vast snowfields, and the famous Zams GorgeStaying in the Bella Vista refuge and crossing into Italy on footTheir favourite moment on the whole route – a narrow ridge on day two with a 360° view of the AlpsTrail:The E5 Alpine Crossing — a 120–200 km (depending how many cable cars/buses you dodge) high-level route from Oberstdorf in Germany to Vernagt/Vernago in Italy, crossing deep valleys, snowfields, exposed gorges and Tyrolean villages.

Rob chats with adventurer and writer Elise Downing and her dad Dave about their five-day trip around the Tour des Fiz, a quiet alpine loop near Chamonix. They talk about choosing this as Dave’s first big outing after hip surgery, the joy of slower days, navigating tiny French huts, run-ins with sheepdogs, gear they always carry, and why this lesser-known trail is such a good entry point for hut-to-hut hiking. What and where the Tour des Fiz actually isWhy they chose this as a comeback adventureSlow, short days and why they loved the change of paceThe difference between this trail and the Tour du Mont BlancHut life: tiny dorms, friendly hosts, and endless cheeseWildlife highlights (marmots, ibex, the world’s angriest sheepdog)Walking as a father and daughter — silence, pace, and faff etiquetteWhat they carried and the kit they swear byElise’s wider philosophy on accessible adventureWhy this route is ideal for beginners to hut-to-hut hikingTheir standout moments — and the one they never want to reliveWhat We Cover

In this episode Rob talks to Juls Stodel, a trustee for the Mountain Bothies Association.It's a rich conversation. Here's what we cover.How finishing the Wales Coast Path led to giving up her flat and starting a 15-month journey through Britain’s bothies Why she avoided a “pure foot” approach and mixed walking with hitchhiking and buses to prioritise experience over mileage The postcard system she invented — and the unexpected friendship it sparked with a stranger from Skye A chaotic three-day slog to Greg’s Hut involving a £9 children’s sled, deep snow, fog and type-two fun at its finest What a typical bothy night actually feels like, from quiet evenings to 2am arrivals The emotional comfort of seeing a gable end after a brutal day in the weather How bothies preserve the history of ordinary people — crofters, workers, families — and why that matters The role of the Mountain Bothies Association and the unseen work involved in keeping the doors open for everyone The Bothy Code, and why litter is currently the biggest threat to the system Small kindnesses and unforgettable encounters: stew-carrying ex-army lads, shared candles, and strangers becoming lifelong friends The thin line between adventure and exhaustion — and how to tell whether you're being brave or being stupid Living out of a backpack for years, and how it changes your sense of what “stuff” really matters Schizophrenia, survival, and the deeper emotional journey behind choosing a life of simplicity and meaning outdoors Advice for your first bothy: where to go, what to bring, and how to ease into it with confidence Juls’ favourite bothy of all — the magical Guìrdil on the Isle of Rùm Find out more at https://www.mountainbothies.org.uk

In this episode of the podcast, Rob talks to Andy Dickson about his Glimpse of Everest trek in Nepal – a condensed Everest Base Camp route that stops at Tengboche Monastery, giving you that first clear view of Everest without pushing further into the highest, most committing part of the trail.Andy talks about juggling a demanding career in financial services with a deep pull towards the mountains, and what it meant to finally scratch the Everest itch with his wife and youngest son.We cover everything from the sensory overload of Kathmandu to the slow, careful climb through tea houses, an altitude scare, and a freezing night at almost 4,500 metres. And then there’s the moment it all comes together: standing in fresh snow at dawn, prayer flags crossing the foreground, watching the very first light touch the summit of Everest.It’s an honest look at high-altitude trekking, family adventure, and why you probably shouldn’t wait until you’re retired to do the big trips.What the Glimpse of Everest trek actually is, and why Andy chose it over the full Everest Base Camp routeFirst impressions of Kathmandu – chaos, queues, culture shock and kindnessLife in the tea houses – tin roofs, plywood walls, hot water bottles, and very thin insulationAn altitude scare: Janice’s symptoms, the reality of high-altitude medicine, and seeing someone evacuated by helicopterTemperature swings: trekking in a t-shirt by day, wearing seven layers and a Tibetan “tea-cosy” hat by nightThe sunrise moment at Tengboche – standing in fresh snow, watching the first light hit EverestThe small details that stick: suspension bridges packed with loaded animals, Tibetan flags, bells, and the taste of dal bhat and Tibetan breadHow different places around the world approach adventure – and the particular feel of NepalAndy’s honest advice to anyone dreaming of the Himalaya but hesitating to go