Surf Splendor

In today's show EAST winner Ashton Pickle recounts his late discovery of surfing and his desire to help people heal through physical therapy but why he left the profession after only one month on the job, the epiphany that led to exploring asymmetrical surfboard design, how his doctorate in PT informs his truly custom ordering process, the dangers of cheapening surfing through careless words and purchasing, why 90s boards enabled benchmark performance surfing, and he explains the surfing mishap that reset his diet, his worldview, and his appreciation for daily life. Enjoy!

In today's episode Matt Warshaw and David Scales reflect on the shift that Larry Bertlemann ushered into surf that bridged the Shortboard Revolution with modern high-performance, his template for earning that is still followed today, why the Aipa connection may be overwrought, his influence on skateboard progression, and why surf media may be primed to re-envision the unseemly aspects of it's heroes lives. Enjoy!

In today's show Natural Selection Surf's GM Jason Murray charts his unlikely rise to the photo editor desk at Surfer Magazine in an era where 10,000 slides would pass through monthly, the unknown charger who grabbed a board from a dumpster to nail a cover shot, why perseverance and work ethic can trump talent, the pleasure of discovering a unsurfed wave and the heartbreak of losing it to industrial development, and why a slow death of trad surf culture is giving way to a modern renaissance. Enjoy!

Publisher Steve Pezman joins us to discuss his new book, how to succeed in print publishing in 2022, why modern surfing needs more counter-culture figures, lament the interviews that he still hasn't gotten, and explain why Olympic surfing showcases a false representation of the sport. Enjoy!

In today's show Jon Rose reflects on his 15 years building Waves For Water and reveals the toll of the trauma absorbed from being a first-responding humanitarian worker in disaster zones, the breaking point that followed and how it led to the discovery of one childhood event that had unknowingly propelled his entire life's trajectory, how being proficient and successful is an impediment for receiving help, the increasing value of ritual, and why the work he's doing now is the hardest work he's ever done. Enjoy!