That's Not Real Climbing

Tom is team GB’s ex-head coach! He personally coached Shauna Coxsey into getting her Tokyo Olympic ticket and has worked with the rest of team GB up until he left the national team earlier this year in April. In this episode, we'll learn about why he’s banned from the USA, the strategy for getting Shauna to qualify for the Olympics, and the politics and public backlash he faced working in the circuit that led to his eventual resignation.There is an EXTRA FULL-LENGTH EPISODE available with Tom on Patreon available to members only: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcastGuest links:InstagramEmailReference links:Wedge ClimbingJanja Unfiltered Period TalkLearn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.comFollow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcastJoin the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zpJoin Patreon for a welcome gift, deleted scenes, and question priority: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcastOr, for a one time donation, buy me a "chalk bag": www.buymeacoffee.com/compclimbingTimestamps of discussion topics0:00 - Intro/Recovering from knee surgery5:49 - Starting climbing + competing + coaching10:20 - How he got BANNED from the USA13:18 - How to get into coaching now18:57 - Thoughts on Instagram coaching + current training philosophies25:50 - Coaching Shauna Coxsey into the Olympics34:15 - Why Team GB found such great form in 202437:12 - What makes Toby and Erin stand out from the rest39:12 - Difference between coaching individually vs acting as head coach40:56 - How GB training camps work44:30 - Athlete consistency during comps + period cycles53:45 - Why he quit as head coach of GB1:01:32 - Dealing with a toxic climbing community1:08:38 - The most difficult parts of coaching1:10:56 - Favorite/least favorite travel moments on the circuit1:14:59 - Recommendation to other coaches on stress management1:17:25 - The future of comp climbing + athlete money1:22:45 - "Coaching people to their own individual Olympics"1:26:45 - Tom's future1:28:22 - Discord Q: Does cohesion in a national team make a difference?1:30:48 - Discord Q: Did individual coaching ever interfere with your work as national team coach?1:32:54 - Final thoughts + where to find Tom

Sofya is a boulderer on team Switzerland and she’s part of the wave of OG climbing Youtubers! In this episode, she gives us a debrief on her last comp of the 2024 season in Prague, we get some insight into team Switzerland and their potential upcoming funding issues, and she opens up about her past struggles with disordered eating and how she overcame it.Join Patreon for a welcome gift, deleted scenes, and question priority: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcastGuest links:InstagramYoutubeReference links:Weight Vest VideoLearn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.comFollow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcastJoin the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zpJoin Patreon for a welcome gift, deleted scenes, and question priority: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcastOr, for a one time donation, buy me a "chalk bag": www.buymeacoffee.com/compclimbingTimestamps of discussion topics0:00 - Reflections on Prague WC6:05 - Climbing + Competing start7:58 - Worldwide childhood and origins of her accent10:52 - Boulderer getting into lead training?15:40 - The "no expectations" comp trick19:55 - Slab is the enemy22:10 - Being a short climber26:08 - Training schedule 30:03 - Team Switzerland transformation31:42 - Swiss athlete funding35:23 - Money and YouTube 41:41 - Behind the scenes of Youtube43:31 - Climbing with a weight vest controversy?48:19 - Climbing, puberty, and eating disorders54:47 - Bulking & cutting? 1:04:04 - The pro comp climbing dating scene1:08:47 - Training with Nicolai1:10:48 - Favorite hobby is...escape rooms?!1:12:54 - Future goals & being born in the 1900s1:18:55 - Shoutout from Tom Greenall1:19:27 - Discord statement: calling Sofya by the wrong name1:19:51 - Discord Q: Who's your favorite YouTuber?1:23:35 - Where to find Sofya

Another double-guest episode! Stanley is an IFSC event delegate and judge chair, while Zul is officially a newly minted IFSC judge. In this episode, we’ll talk about how to become an IFSC judge, hear about their relationships and interactions with athletes and coaches, and we’ll hear some crazy stories about their judging experiences under pressure and cancelling events due to rain like in Keqiao.Join Patreon for a welcome gift, deleted scenes, and question priority: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcastGuest links:Stanley’s InstagramZul’s InstagramReference links:Appeal against Sorato during Boulder Finals at SLC 2023Appeal FormStickman (Implied beta) on M1 Boulder Finals at SLC 2023Bee incident during Speed Finals at SLC 2023Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.comFollow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcastJoin the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zpJoin Patreon for a welcome gift, deleted scenes, and question priority: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcastOr, for a one time donation, buy me a "chalk bag": www.buymeacoffee.com/compclimbingTimestamps of discussion topics0:00 - Getting back from Paris Olympics7:31 - Their IFSC Roles12:35 - Why become an IFSC judge?20:34 - How to become an IFSC judge23:46 - The pressure of judging at the IFSC level26:51 - Being taken advantage of by coaches31:09 - Messing up an appeal in Salt Lake City38:44 - Things route setters do that judges HATE49:19 - The appeals process53:55 - Judge relationship with coaches1:01:27 - Giving athletes yellow cards1:14:06 - Fixing the weather1:17:28 - Performing a skit at the World Cup opening ceremony1:20:59 - Why is the rain issue never fixed?1:26:58 - Belayer protest walk-out & other crazy stories1:35:56 - Things to be improved in the IFSC1:42:25 - Discord Q: How different are WCs based on who's organizing them1:52:11 - Discord Q: Should corporations host world cups instead of national federations? 1:54:20 - Final thoughts, where to find Stanley & Zul

Jesse is a boulder + lead climber (mostly lead climber) from the USA who is fresh from the Olympics! In this episode, he walks us through his entire Olympics experience, from training through his first ever finger injury, to balancing training with his engineering job, to meeting other athletes in the Olympic village.Join Patreon for a welcome gift, deleted scenes, and question priority: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcastGuest links:InstagramReference links:Protect Our WintersLearn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.comFollow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcastJoin the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zpJoin Patreon for a welcome gift, deleted scenes, and question priority: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcastOr, for a one time donation, buy me a "chalk bag": www.buymeacoffee.com/compclimbingTimestamps of discussion topics0:00 - Post-Olympics travels7:04 - Climbing and competing start9:41 - Youth training + competition12:39 - Wanting to work as an engineer17:55 - Only getting 1 shot on a World Cup lead route20:52 - Slipping on the Olympics semis lead route23:12 - Boulder mindset as a lead climber26:11 - Olympics Combined format strategy29:42 - Finger injury leading up to the Olympics35:34 - Olympics training with a hurt finger42:41 - Olympics village experience - feeling like a real athlete47:17 - Dealing with post-Olympic blues51:22 - Goals post-Olympics52:55 - LA 2028 plans58:52 - Protect our Winters work1:04:35 - Discord Q: Why does it seem like you're friends with every climber on the circuit?! (And a discussion on competitiveness)1:10:03 - Discord Q: Professional and climbing career intersection?1:12:35 - Final thoughts: Voting and memes, where to find Jesse

Olga is an official IFSC routesetter, and she recently came back from Paris, where she helped set the Olympic boulder rounds. In this episode, we'll learn about what it takes to become an IFSC setter, what it was like setting at the Olympics and trying to make the rounds fair, and how she balances setting, training, and traveling all while being a single mother.Join Patreon for a welcome gift, deleted scenes, and question priority: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcastGuest links:InstagramReference links:Boulder + Lead routesetting guidelines and point distribution goalsLearn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.comFollow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcastJoin the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zpJoin Patreon for a welcome gift, deleted scenes, and question priority: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcastOr, for a one time donation, buy me a "chalk bag": www.buymeacoffee.com/compclimbingTimestamps of discussion topics0:00 - Break after Paris2:35 - Climbing since childhood and being a team kid5:36 - Almost an Olympic snowboarder...7:28 - First time routesetting...was at an international comp16:26 - Becoming an IFSC routesetter20:09 - Setting for boulder vs lead21:57 - Dealing with the boulder setting guidelines26:06 - Trying to balance boulder vs lead difficulty at the Olympics35:36 - Height and route setting - The Ai Mori problem39:38 - Setting for men vs women42:30 - Setting for future Olympics?46:54 - Raising 2 little climbers48:26 - Competing again after giving birth53:21 - Hospitalizations in Budapest and Paris55:54 - Balancing training, traveling, motherhood57:47 - Non-climbing activities and snowboarding1:02:08 - Discord Q: How do you deal with negative setting comments?1:07:31 - Discord Q: Should the 2 zone format stay or go?1:10:15 - Discord Q: How do you improve your route setting skills? 1:12:59 - Discord Q: Unique challenges you face being a setter and mother 1:15:55 - Where to find Olga

I know Allen from our climbing training class in San Diego, but he is also a boulderer for a brand new IFSC federation, Team Guam. In this episode, we'll learn about what it’s like competing on the world cup circuit as an “average” climber who only started climbing at 23 years old and works a full time engineering job. We’ll also hear about what it’s like as a NEW competitor competing in Innsbruck including the afterparties, and all about the Guam climbing scene.Join Patreon for a welcome gift, deleted scenes, and question priority: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcastGuest links:InstagramReference links:Climbing Gems BagLearn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.comFollow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcastJoin the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zpJoin Patreon for a welcome gift, deleted scenes, and question priority: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcastOr, for a one time donation, buy me a "chalk bag": www.buymeacoffee.com/compclimbingTimestamps of discussion topics0:00 - Our climbing sesh2:57 - Starting climbing at 23 years old6:59 - Why he started comp climbing at 29 years old11:15 - Wanting to bring climbing back to Guam19:01 - Being a weekend warrior24:14 - Current training + work balance29:43 - Never having a personal coach32:27 - First World Cup experience in Innsbruck38:31 - The difficulty going to a WC alone45:23 - What people do in ISO for 8 hours51:09 - Thoughts while taking on his first WC Boulder54:07 - Least favorite comp moment57:02 - Innsbruck afterparty59:37 - Favorite comp moment1:05:40 - Climbing Gems chalk bag1:10:13 - Where is Guam1:13:02 - Guam climbing scene1:23:53 - Discord Q: What made you decide to participate in world cups as an average climber?1:30:15 - Discord Q: Are you going to all future bouldering WCs?1:35:24 - Final thoughts/where to find Allen

Madison is a boulderer for Team Canada and you may have seen her Youtube videos with her husband Zach on their channel, Richardsons Climbing. In this episode, we'll learn about the issues the Canadian climbing team faces such as not having a head coach, her “lose” streak when it comes to Canadian nationals, Youtube and deleting social media, and we’ll get her take on getting married young and relationships among climbers.Join Patreon for a welcome gift, deleted scenes, and question priority: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcastGuest links:InstagramYoutubeReference links:Ditching Social Media Blog PostLearn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.comFollow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcastJoin the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zpJoin Patreon for a welcome gift, deleted scenes, and question priority: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcastOr, for a one time donation, buy me a "chalk bag": www.buymeacoffee.com/compclimbingTimestamps of discussion topics0:00 - The never-ending 2024 season6:11 - Climbing + competing start7:53 - Losing interest in lead climbing16:37 - Current training program19:43 - Moving to Germany and then back to Canada26:42 - Canada's funding struggle/lack of coaching33:31 - Canadian geographical difficulties37:26 - Discord Q: What obstacles will Canadian climbers need to overcome with Alannah and Sean retiring?39:32 - Comparison, competitive mindset, and the nationals curse44:00 - Deleting all social media49:31 - Social media and sponsorships55:11 - Making the exception for Youtube1:02:26 - Getting married young to another climber1:08:06 - Siblings or dating?!1:10:30 - Take on relationships between World Cup climbers1:14:39 - Competitiveness within the relationship1:21:40 - Relationship with Alannah Yip1:24:36 - Discord Q: Thoughts on the current field of comp climbing women compared to other nations?1:27:28 - Discord Q: Would there be a benefit to a more dedicated training center in Canada?1:30:09 - Final thoughts + where to find Madison

Sebastian is a German paraclimber. He is also the chair of the paraclimbing commission, and he worked on filing the application to get climbing into the Paralympics for LA 2028, which only recently got approved! In this episode, we'll learn about his journey accepting that his disease would affect his body and climbing forever, what the process was like for getting climbing into the Paralympics, the drama behind the paraclimbing classification process, and we talk about his harrowing 1000km journey to the Innsbruck world cup on just a solar hand bike.Join Patreon for a welcome gift, deleted scenes, and question priority: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcastGuest links:InstagramYoutubeReference links:IFSC Classification InformationFAQ Video on the bikeShort teaser about the handbikeLearn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.comFollow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcastJoin the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zpJoin Patreon for a welcome gift, deleted scenes, and question priority: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcastOr, for a one time donation, buy me a "chalk bag": www.buymeacoffee.com/compclimbingTimestamps of discussion topics0:00 - Getting into climbing/paraclimbing9:43 - Learning to live with ankylosing spondylitis23:58 - Applying for paraclimbing to become a Paralympic sport35:25 - Onsighting the Paralympic application and beating out surfing39:53 - What sport classes will be in the Paralympics44:51 - Requirements paraclimbing must fulfill to participate in the Olympics49:55 - Classification drama58:07 - How classification works1:05:15 - The difficult job of classifiers: fluctuating impairments1:09:25 - Funding his climbing1:13:07 - And the solar hand bike was born1:28:50 - Proudest outdoor climbing achievement1:33:00 - Closing thoughts/where to find Sebastian

Noah is the Assistant National Belay Coordinator of USA Climbing and has volunteer belayed at events nationally and internationally at IFSC youth worlds in 2022. In this episode, we'll learn about how to get into volunteer belaying, some interesting tidbits on belay devices and catching falls that you may not have thought about before, what the differences are belaying different paraclimbers, and some bad falls that he has had to witness.NEW PATREON: www.patreon.com/CompetitionClimbingGuest links:InstagramUSA Belay InstagramReference links:First draw falls at USA Team TrailsBelay shoe clip incident mentioned from DiscordLeg caught in rope Youth WorldsLearn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.comFollow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcastJoin the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zpTo help support the podcast, you can become a Patreon member: patreon.com/CompetitionClimbing Or, for a one time donation, buy me a "chalk bag": www.buymeacoffee.com/compclimbingTimestamps of discussion topics0:00 - Getting into climbing and belaying8:43 - Any certifications needed to volunteer belay?14:53 - Belay devices21:01 - Climbers falling + getting lowered at the same time23:34 - Do you get paid to belay?25:58 - Belayer prep for a comp37:03 - Do athletes ever get to choose their belayer?48:29 - NO belay glasses?!51:49 - Differences between youth, elite, para1:00:28 - Tandem belaying in paraclimbing1:03:01 - Nervousness while belaying59:22 - Team boulder arena com1:08:46 - Climber interactions1:11:11 - Bad falls during comps1:17:06 - How to become an IFSC belayer1:21:13 - Discord Q: Common bad practices belayers need to stop doing1:26:52 - Discord Q: Have you ever had to remove a volunteer belayer?1:29:54 - Discord Q: Have peopled ever submitted appeals for being shortroped?1:31:27 - Discord Q: Thoughts on the double Fisherman or Yosemite tuck?1:33:20 - Closing thoughts/where to find Noah

Ross is a boulder and lead climber on Team USA and you may be familiar with his Youtube channel where he documents his climbing adventures and shares coaching tips. In this episode, we'll learn about his bikepacking adventure that he skipped the first half of the 2024 world cup season for, hear about his struggle trying to balance competitions with his desire to travel and all his other hobbies, the importance of mindset and meditation, and if you're a USA bay area gym climber, maybe close your ears when he starts trashing the bay area gym scene. This episode is full of training and mindset tips!NEW PATREON: www.patreon.com/CompetitionClimbingGuest links:InstagramYoutubeMind to Motion ClinicsReference links:How to Train/Stay Fit While TravelingLearn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.comFollow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcastJoin the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zpTo help support the podcast, you can become a Patreon member: patreon.com/CompetitionClimbing Or, for a one time donation, buy me a "chalk bag": www.buymeacoffee.com/compclimbingTimestamps of discussion topics0:00 - Intro/Going over my experience competing in Vail3:35 - Absolutely TRASHING California Bay Area gyms11:38 - Why Ross didn't attend the first few 2024 world cups13:15 - Insane bikepacking adventure20:16 - What makes going to a World Cup worth it25:10 - How Ross got into climbing34:52 - Class5 Climbing Team42:58 - The importance of who you climb with44:58 - Struggle balancing travel desires + competition49:16 - Hometown advantage makes a BIG difference55:12 - Climbing training tip: strength training staircase59:22 - Team boulder arena comp1:04:48 - Mindset: How to turn around negative thoughts1:08:51 - Fixing his SLC finals mindset1:15:39 - Meditation for climbing1:22:43 - "Being comfortable with the uncomfortable"1:29:40 - Balancing other sports with climbing1:40:16 - Using your non-dominant hand1:45:17 - Making time for Youtube1:50:05 - Proudest moment as a coach1:55:42 - Discord Q: How to use skincare products for comp climbing?2:00:27 - Discord Q: How to incorporate outdoor climbing into training? Any projects?2:07:51 - Discord Q: Favorite non-US teams to train with2:11:30 - Discord Q: Is the USA team dynamic more competitive or supportive?2:15:07 - Leave a comment with more questions if you want a pt 2/Where to find Ross

Erin is a boulder and lead climber from team GB who has been having a stellar 2024 season so far, making finals for boulder in Keqiao, lead in Wujiang, and getting bronze in Shanghai OQS! In this episode, we’ll get some insight into how she seemed to rise out of nowhere, her brutal off-season training, we’ll learn a bit about team GB, and stay for the end to hear about where the Erin McBeast nickname came from.Guest links:InstagramReference links:Keqiao Boulder Finals Difficult PaddleLearn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.comFollow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcastJoin the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zpIf you're able to help support the podcast, you can "buy me a chalk refill" :) current proceeds are going toward a webcam! www.buymeacoffee.com/compclimbingTimestamps of discussion topics0:00 - Intro/Rest after Shanghai OQS2:52 - Starting climbing + skateboarding9;12 - Her dad’s gymnastics/climbing background11:29 - Jumping without bending your knees13:26 - Climbing preferences, strengths, weaknesses15:53 - Traveling for climbing experience17:36 - Team GB training process21:48 - Finding incredible form this season26:25 - Taking on a less serious mindset34:06 - Training goal setting35:41 - Difficulty maintaining friendships through training39:45 - Competing against your idols42:43 - GB Climbing Funding44:59 - Need for sponsorship46:33 - Handling the quick OQS -> Olympics turnaround time49:28 - Future climbing goals50:55 - Planetology interests53:20 - Living in Malaysia56:11 - Erin McBeast origin story57:29 - ISO activities59:28 - Discord Q: Did you ever had doubts in wanting to become a pro climber?1:02:30 - Discord Q: Training at home vs abroad1:03:59 - Discord Q: Do you do any other sports? Is cross-training beneficial?1:06:03 - Where to find Erin

Eddie is an ex-IFSC photographer, who worked with them from 2014-2020. In this episode, we’ll get his thoughts on the ethics and purpose of photojournalism, hear about the chaos behind the scenes traveling around for world cups, and discuss ideas on how to get athletes better paid.Guest links:InstagramReference links:Vail triangle poseMia Krampl Koper incidentLearn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.comFollow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcastJoin the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zpIf you're able to help support the podcast, you can "buy me a chalk refill" :) current proceeds are going toward a webcam! www.buymeacoffee.com/compclimbingTimestamps of discussion topics0:00 - Intro/The great photographer race13:31 - Comp background + injury16:29 - Starting photography24:53 - Becoming a professional photographer31:36 - IFSC freelance employment only34:23 - Photography itself is a competitive sport38:46 - Azerbaijan comp disaster46:45 - Strange historical US comp scoring50:30 - IFSC scoring, bringing back 4+ min57:47 - The importance + difficulty of commentary1:05:49 - Are there too many photographers?1:15:20 - Demeaning athlete posing1:17:55 - Behind the scenes portrait chaos1:20:48 - Youth climber dating distractions...1:23:34 - Climbers under RED-S pressure1:32:19 - Photographing athletes in vulnerable moments1:39:25 - Photojournalism + variety1:41:55 - Mia Krampl Koper Incident1:43:32 - “Losers” in sport1:51:10 - Pro comp climbers after retirement1:55:23 - Comparing climbing to disc golf1:59:03 - Ways to fix athlete funding2:06:22 - The fall of comp climbing?2:21:35 - Discord Q: Could/should there be an alternative to IFSC?2:23:36 - Olympics hatred2:33:21 - Discord Q: Differences between comp climbing vs outdoor climbing photography2:39:19 - Being more famous than Will Bosi2:43:48 - Where to find Eddie

Chloé is a boulder and lead climber competing in the world cup circuit for the Belgian team! This is my first time talking to a Belgian climber, so in this episode we’ll learn a lot about their fairly newly established national team and how funding works, and we also talk about body image with being a more muscular climber, as well as the difficulties that come with being a female climber.Guest links:InstagramReference links:Master of Fire CompetitionTeam Boulder Arena (Competition w/ Stasa)Charlotte de WitteLearn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.comFollow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcastJoin the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zpIf you're able to help support the podcast, you can "buy me a chalk refill" :) current proceeds are going toward a webcam! www.buymeacoffee.com/compclimbingTimestamps of discussion topics0:00 - Introduction/China stress3:35 - Going into simulation6:50 - Climbing beginnings10:39 - Transitioning from youth to senior circuit12:31 - Favorite discipline17:44 - Training with dad vs. with the Belgian team23:05 - Training with male athletes27:31 - Does the Belgian team train together?31:36 - Belgian athlete funding34:01 - Gaining strength too easily40:03 - Body image44:27 - Being the only woman on the Belgian team49:32 - Training with Stasa58:06 - Machismo in the climbing gym1:03:02 - 2024 goals1:04:32 - Discord Q: Are there any language difficulties within team Belgium?1:06:16 - Discord Q: What do you do in isolation?1:07:28 - Discord Q: What kind of music do you listen to?1:09:32 - Where to find Chloé

Charlie is a broadcaster and writer who preceded Matt Groom as an IFSC commentator and EpicTV host. In this episode, we’ll learn about his rough start to IFSC commentating in 2016, ways that he thinks the IFSC could improve competitions, and get some insight into what it’s like traveling around with athletes. He also shares his unique story about traveling to North Korea!Guest links:WebsiteReference links:Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.comFollow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcastJoin the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zpIf you're able to help support the podcast, you can "buy me a chalk refill" :) current proceeds are going toward a webcam! www.buymeacoffee.com/compclimbingTimestamps of discussion topics0:00 - Introduction/giving some love to North America8:59 - Kicking IFSC's door in for a job14:25 - Hardest year: 2016 commentary18:02 - A trip to North Korea26:21 - Improving IFSC Production31:42 - Charlie's biggest commentary mistakes37:51 - Repetitive Commentary43:42 - The handoff to Matt Groom46:23 - Why he left IFSC51:03 - Post-IFSC work52:50 - What it's like traveling around with climbers56:40 - Dirtbag vs serious pro climbers1:07:12 - Ideas to make competitions more entertaining to watch1:13:18 - Secret beef between climbers?!1:18:16 - Discord Q: What changes would you like to see for comps/broadcasting?1:20:47 - Discord Q: Get Rid of ISO?1:23:03 - Discord Q: How could IFSC grow the sport?1:30:44 - Where to find Charlie

Cloe is a French/American boulderer who has competed for team USA in the international youth and elite circuit. In this episode, we’ll learn about how she “accidentally” ended up competing in lead world cups, the difficulties of trying to make it onto a highly competitive US national team, and we give some love to good old gym climbing and plastic pulling!Guest links:Cloe’s InstagramReference links:La Puissance song recLearn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.comFollow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcastJoin the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zpIf you're able to help support the podcast, you can "buy me a chalk refill" :) current proceeds are going toward a webcam! www.buymeacoffee.com/compclimbingTimestamps of discussion topics0:00 - Introduction/preparing for team trials5:45 - Cloe’s relatively late climbing start10:41 - Training in France 16:37 - Accidentally become a World Cup lead climber24:56 - Transitioning from youth to adult circuit31:09 - What impacts performace - MAKE SOME NOISE!!34:21 - Feeling insecure climbing with teammates37:44 - Disappointing 2023 season42:53 - Concussion troubles48:26 - My Soapbox: everyone try a head spa!49:22 - Gym climbing is the best climbing52:22 - Being in the IFSC commentary box54:38 - Crushing at every local competition57:00 - How amateurs can improve at comp climbing1:02:40 - Coaching endeavors1:08:07 - Cross-sport skills1:13:48 - Discord Q: Benefits vs downsides of competing for the USA1:17:29 - Discord Q: Unhinged stories living in the Powerhouse with Cece and Quinn?1:19:28 - Discord Q: Why French rap?1:21:57 - Discord Q: How does training with friends impact you?1:24:34 - Where to find Cloe

Tyler is a fellow competition climbing nerd and podcaster, who has been involved in the space much longer than I have, and you may be familiar with his channel, Plastic Weekly! In this episode, we’ll talk about what it’s like MCing at a world cup, commiserate on the hardships that come with climbing podcasting, go over some climbing HOT TAKES, and talk about the upcoming 2024 season!Guest links:Tyler’s InstagramPlastic Weekly IGPlastic Weekly YoutubeReference links:Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.comFollow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcastJoin the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zpIf you're able to help support the podcast, you can "buy me a chalk refill" :) current proceeds are going toward a webcam! www.buymeacoffee.com/compclimbingTimestamps of discussion topics0:00 - Introduction1:15 - Intro + gym experience7:16 - MCing and commentating at world cups13:35 - Beginnings of Plastic Weekly Podcast17:31 - Starting The Debrief series with John Burgman20:52 - Commiserating on highlights and lowlights of podcasting30:36 - Competition hot take: GOAT is overused42:09 - Hot take: Get rid of isolation?48:29 - People don't care about the overall title anymore?55:00 - NEOM games environmental impact1:01:35 - IFSC's new RED-S Policy1:05:54 - 2024 season predictions1:13:14 - Olympic favorites1:18:54 - Discord Q: Is there an absence of climbing media?1:24:19 - Discord Q: Are gyms are good place to start climbing careers?1:29:04 - Where to find Tyler

Cody is the USA national chief routesetter, and in the 2023 IFSC season he had the opportunity to set boulders in Hachioji, Prague, Innsbruck, and the Bern world champs! In this episode, we’ll watch him read Youtube hate comments, and we’ll learn about the differences between IFSC vs USA vs commercial routesetting, as well as hear about a crazy cool gym that he will be opening up soon.Guest links:Cody’s InstagramSyndicate RoutesettingReference links:Reel: Routesetting Testing vs Athletes HachiojiBoulder Union - Climbing gymLearn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.comFollow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcastJoin the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zpIf you're able to help support the podcast, you can "buy me a chalk refill" :) current proceeds are going toward a webcam! www.buymeacoffee.com/compclimbingTimestamps of discussion topics0:00 - Introduction2:06 - Starting climbing + routesetting at the same time12:58 - Juggling firefighting and setting19:03 - How he started setting for the world cups28:26 - Favorite World Cup wall to set on31:08 - Hate comment: Hachioji too hard43:44 - Hate comment: Hachioji did the setters have too much free time?46:21 - Hate comment: Hachioji should setters be able to top their boulders?51:37 - Hate comment: Prague M4/V455:44 - Hate comment: Prague calibrating difficulty of static climbing57:43 - Why Oriane won Prague instead of Janja31:48 - Differences setting for mens vs women climbing1:01:30 - Hate comment: Innsbruck height comments1:15:00 - Bern: How would Janja fare on a men's course?1:18:28 - Innsbruck: Resetting a whole boulder before the comp1:26:37 - The future of IFSC setting evolution1:32:05 - Lower body coordination moves1:37:17 - Feeling self conscious among athletes and setters1:47:04 - Getting tips for competing at Vail1:52:35 - The time it takes to set for IFSC vs national vs local comps1:56:44 - What makes a great route setter2:06:00 - Anyone else feel like US nationals setting looks different from IFSC?2:12:09 - Cody's crazy cool gym in an old bank2:25:50 - Discord Q: World Cup climbs vs comp style boulders in a gym?2:29:29 - Discord Q: Favorite round of world cups to set for?2:31:23 - Discord Q: Mistakes in commercial setting?2:34:21 - I'm traumatized by route setting2:37:07 - Discord Q: Will there be facilities in your gym for paraclimbers?2:39:41 - Discord Q: What kind of athlete is hardest to set for?2:44:49 - Discord Q: How much are setters able to sway rounds for athletes?2:52:08 - Where to find Cody

Carlie is the FIRST female chief setter at an IFSC world championship, where she led a team of 5 to set the world paraclimbing championships in Bern 2023! She has been climbing for over 20 years and setting for almost just as long, so she has a lot of experience. In this episode, we’ll learn about all the things you have to keep in mind when setting world championship routes for paraclimbers, what it’s like in the routesetting scene as a female setter, and what it’s like owning a climbing gym.Guest links:Carlie’s InstagramReference links:Bern 2023 RP1 routeIFSC Para Routesetting GuidelinesLearn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.comFollow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcastJoin the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zpIf you're able to help support the podcast, you can "buy me a chalk refill" :) current proceeds are going toward a webcam! www.buymeacoffee.com/compclimbingTimestamps of discussion topics0:00 - Introduction1:18 - Tummy trubble4:10 - Starting climbing through school9:04 - How she became a paraclimbing setter11:09 - IFSC rules for paraclimbing setting14:46 - How to handle asymmetrical disabilities?16:32 - How to merge different paraclimbing classifications onto the same route20:26 - How para routes are forerun22:22 - Setting a route that did not work out as expected25:25 - How setters can get into paraclimbing setting26:42 - Breaking into routesetting as a woman 20 years ago31:48 - Differences setting for mens vs women climbing36:08 - Carlie's setting style37:37 - How motherhood impacted climbing + setting43:23 - Being a gym owner49:09 - My dream gym50:34 - Discord Q: Did you feel unconscious bias against you as a female setter?52:54 - Discord Q: Do setters get "writer's block"?54:41 - Discord Q: How often do you think gym routes/boulders should be reset?56:43 - Discord Q: Do you have any involvement in World Cup isolation setting?59:00 - Discord Q: Pros and cons of setting different qualifiers and finals in 1 day1:02:25 - Where to find Carlie

Anita Aggarwal and Christiane Luttikhuizen are paraclimbers who have competed in world cups as part of the RP3 sports class. RP3 is a classification for limited reach, power or stability. In this episode, we’ll learn about what it’s like climbing with a disability, the difficulties dealing with classification and class merging, whether or not the IFSC does a good job with accommodations, and the possibility of joining the Paralympics in LA 2028.Guest links:Anita’s InstagramChristiane’s InstagramReference links:Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.comFollow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcastJoin the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zpIf you're able to help support the podcast, you can "buy me a chalk refill" :) current proceeds are going toward a webcam! www.buymeacoffee.com/compclimbingTimestamps of discussion topics0:00 - Introduction1:15 - Holiday debrief4:36 - How they got into climbing6:01 - Explanation of paraclimbing categories8:39 - Christiane's disability10:07 - Anita's disability12:05 - Classification + merging24:31 - Getting de-classified and re-classified30:17 - Managing fatigue + injury with competitions39:38 - How to join a paraclimbing team44:56 - History of paraclimbing47:54 - Paraclimbing formats, potentially lead or bouldering?50:33 - Paraclimbing route setting57:49 - Logistical issues and isolation insanity1:00:57 - Has the IFSC been good at accommodating paraclimbers?1:08:37 - Funding for paraclimbers1:16:23 - Not feeling disabled enough1:20:05 - How it feels to climb a para route1:25:18 - Matt Groom fan club1:28:41 - Anita on being an older competitor (50+)1:34:49 - Paralympics in LA 2028?1:41:26 - Discord Q: Are there any paraclimbers who do speed climbing?1:43:34 - Discord Q: Should there be more paraclimbing world cups?1:45:32 - Discord Q: What are the future areas of growth for paraclimbing?1:49:23 - Discord Q: How does the path of a pro paraclimber differ from that of an able-bodied climber?1:55:03 - Where to find Anita + Christiane + Outro

Stasa is a boulder and lead climber (specializing in boulder) from Serbia who has been competing in international cups since 2011 as a youth climber. Most recently, she took the silver medal in the Laval European Qualifiers. In this episode, we’ll learn about Serbian funding in the sport and OQS, we’ll get a glimpse into what bouldering isolation is like, hear some tales from the commentary booth, and hear her reflect on the 2023 season.Guest links:InstagramReference links:Career highlight - EU Champs Munich 2017 SuperfinalKoper 2022 “Heel Hookers vs Toe Hookers”Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.comFollow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcastJoin the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zpIf you're able to help support the podcast, you can "buy me a chalk refill" :) current proceeds are going toward a webcam! www.buymeacoffee.com/compclimbingTimestamps of discussion topics0:00 - Introduction6:46 - Stasa's early climbing start16:09 - Growing up in a climbing family24:45 - How does bouldering isolation work?33:00 - Trying to calculate your competition35:25 - Physical and emotion state between quails, semis, and finals39:55 - Finals mental game42:15 - Routesetting + height (being a taller competitor)49:31 - Interest in commentating54:52 - Embarrassing commentating moments57:54 - Funding the Serbian climbing team1:04:07 - Climbing scene in Serbia, climbing resources1:07:25 - Will comp climbing be less collaborative now that there's money involved1:10:38 - 2023 season reflection1:15:19 - Climbers being too starstruck to talk to each other1:18:50 - Juggling masters degree with competitions1:22:27 - Currently binge watching...1:25:30 - Viola/Violin Talk1:28:21 - How OQS works1:31:48 - Preparing for OQS1:35:44 - Discord Q: Do you get negative responses to your on stage emotions?1:37:48 - Discord Q: Differences between how national teams train?1:39:16 - Discord Q: What do you like about Munich?1:43:16 - Discord comment: berating Janja for celebrating before clipping1:45:06 - Discord Q: Current outdoor projects?1:48:20 - Where to find Stasa + Outro