The New Garde with Alyssa Vingan

The second part of TNG’s look back at 2016 (don’t miss part one here!) digs into the massive, enduring influence that year had on the fashion industry. This week, I sit down with Jian DeLeon, the men’s fashion director at Nordstrom who was steeped in menswear media at the time, to discuss the year’s lasting impact on clothing and culture. Tune in to hear how Jian made the transition from editorial to retail — or, how he went from indirectly selling things to directly selling things — as well as how 2016 marked the apex of meme and algorithm fashion; why it was the last year that people felt something of a monoculture, as well as the final moment of Kanye West’s domination of the zeitgeist where fashion and culture intertwined; how fashion and streetwear weren’t as muddled yet, the last days of knowing who the gatekeepers were; the year responsible for the pop-up and why everything is an “activation” now; New York Fashion Week: Men’s (RIP), the Raf Simons Calvin Klein debut, and a formative time for menswear; the merch-ification of fashion thanks to Kanye, Justin Bieber, Frank Ocean, Drake, etc.; whether designers were “trolling” or actually subverting how we think about fashion and design; the resale market boom and bust, and much more. This is a public episode. If you'd like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit thenewgarde.substack.com/subscribe

If you, like me, spend a good amount of time on TikTok, you’ve likely felt awash in a sea of nostalgia for 2016, which in just a matter of weeks will be a full decade in the rearview. Not only was it a banner year for realizing things, it was also a moment in time that shifted the cultural paradigm in a way that’s now coming into full focus. In the first of a two-part episode, I sit down with Jessica DeFino of Flesh World to discuss how the beauty trends, products, and developments that defined 2016 have changed the industry forever. Tune in to hear about Jessica’s time witnessing the creation of beauty standards firsthand while working for the Kardashian apps in 2016, as well as why the natural next step in the trend cycle is a reaction to “clean girl” beauty; reflections on a time before micro and ‘core trends; the cut crease to blepharoplasty pipeline is real; the self-care boom in the aftermath of the first Trump election and how it’s evolved; why 2016 makeup and “Republican makeup” are so similar; what the King Kylie era brought to wider beauty culture, and the impact that Kylie Cosmetics had on the celebrity beauty brand boom; how trauma dumping during GRWM videos on TikTok has become such a popular content genre; why Ozempic is the new Botox, and more. This episode was recorded in the podcast studio at The SQ @ 205 Hudson. This is a public episode. If you'd like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit thenewgarde.substack.com/subscribe

Been gone for a minute now we’re back! To celebrate the year coming to a close — and to officially kick off Season 2 of TNG — Alyssa sat down with Emily Kirkpatrick, Nicolaia Rips, and Taylore Scarabelli to discuss the highs and lows of 2025 in fashion, plus what to expect in 2026. The esteemed panel goes deep on the year in brands, content, trends, red carpets, runways, and more, touching on everything from the unspoken rules of party reporting to the potential for a runway show in space (see: that Timothée Vogue cover, Matthieu Blazy’s Chanel debut set, and the Jeff Bezos/Lauren Sánchez Bezos sponsored Met Gala).Special thanks to our presenting partner sex happens, and to Hudson Square Properties for the venue. Brand new episodes will resume next week! This is a public episode. If you'd like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit thenewgarde.substack.com/subscribe

First a blog, then a pod, then fashion world domination. This week, Alyssa sits down with Liv Perez, a fashion journalist, TODAY Show correspondent, and host of the Let’s Get Dressed podcast, to discuss how she’s building a one-woman fashion media empire for the next generation. Tune in to hear how Liv’s time as a college student in New York during the earliest days of Instagram and digital media kicked off her career, including a stint at Teen Vogue; her time as one of the earliest Glossier shop girls; why she started her original recommendations blog, Friend of a Friend, and how she organically built an audience; why she pivoted to audio before the podcasting industry exploded; how she started creating content for brands and how she decides who to partner with; how to know when it’s time for a rebrand; why having a very specific point of view is crucial in a crowded space like podcasting; whether everyone making things online needs to be on video; how being an early adopter has been a key to her success, and much more.Quick programming note: TNG is taking a brief hiatus — we’ll be back with new episodes in the fall! This episode was recorded in the podcast studio at The SQ @ 205 Hudson. This is a public episode. If you'd like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit thenewgarde.substack.com/subscribe

The Spring 2026 season of Men’s Fashion Week in Paris is well underway, and to celebrate, we’re catching up with one of the most respected (and loudest) voices in menswear: Lawrence Schlossman, co-host of Throwing Fits, as well as the former editor-in-chief of Four Pins (RIP), brand director of Grailed, author of F**k Yeah Menswear, and overall industry authority for more than a decade. In a supersized episode, Lawrence breaks down his illustrious career that all started with a fashion blog, and anonymous Tumblr account, a healthy sense of humor, and a dream. Plus, he shares a wealth of insights on the current state of the menswear space: what’s most interesting to him right now, his thoughts on what’s happening (and what’s not) in men’s lifestyle media, the tedium of recycled references, the hyperspeed of the trend cycle and which trends have surprising staying power, the overconsumption conundrum, his take on the personal style discourse, the fine line between being in on the joke and being the joke in the starter pack age, how menswear enthusiasts can set themselves apart when it comes to style, and so much more.This episode was recorded in the podcast studio at The SQ @ 205 Hudson. This is a public episode. If you'd like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit thenewgarde.substack.com/subscribe

When you think about some of the most disruptive brands on the New York fashion scene over the last decade (Telfar, Luar, Area) and the most legendary parties (Heaven by Marc Jacobs’s surprise Deftones concert, for example), they all have something in common: Gia Kuan Consulting was working behind the scenes and front of house to make the magic happen. This week, Alyssa sits down with publicist extraordinaire Gia Kuan to learn all about how she became one of the most sought-after ladies in the world of fashion and beauty comms, which is a “people” business at its core. Tune in for a fascinating conversation about Gia’s international upbringing, when she took early style inspiration from The Jetsons and Sailor Moon; how being a teenage mallrat was her first exposure to the fashion industry; how working in hospitality and nightlife in college were training grounds for working the door at fashion events and having grace under pressure; her first PR job at Comme des Garçons; why working with emerging brands at Dover Street Market as their de facto PR was so inspiring; why she sees her agency as a matchmaking business; why subcultures are alive and well if you know where to look and are curious enough; how her obsession with youth culture and pop culture inform her work; the joys of working with your friends, and with people or brands that are different from what’s already out there; why guest list curation is an art; how to stay nimble in a communications industry that changes all the time, and much more.This episode was recorded in the podcast studio at The SQ @ 205 Hudson. This is a public episode. If you'd like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit thenewgarde.substack.com/subscribe

Summer is upon us, and you know what that means: It’s brand trip season! On any given weekend over the next couple of months, you’ll likely clock at least a few fashion or beauty brand-sponsored getaways for a select few influencers, tastemakers, or Very Important Customers playing out in real time on your Instagram and TikTok feeds. While the brand trip has been a common marketing strategy for over a decade, times are changing; what was once a fun opportunity to show off shoppable products in an aspirational setting can now feel extremely dated and out of touch. This week, Alyssa sits down with influencer marketing consultant and author of Following Up on Substack, Clare Moore, to dive deep into the world of brand trips, unpacking what’s working, what’s not, what kinds of activations are actually impactful, what happens when influencer trips go wrong, and how they need to evolve for 2025 and beyond.This episode was recorded in the podcast studio at The SQ @ 205 Hudson. This is a public episode. If you'd like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit thenewgarde.substack.com/subscribe

This is a free preview of a paid episode. To hear more, visit thenewgarde.substack.comIt’s been a huge month for red carpets, with events like the Met Gala and the Cannes Film Festival serving as season closers where celebrities and stylists really bring their A game. This week, Alyssa is joined by Eliza Brooke to really nerd out about the stylist, talent, and brand partnerships that fuel the red carpet machine. This is our version of sports, and while some of you are locked into the NBA Playoffs, we’re focused on a different kind of bracket: which star has a contract with which luxury brand, what celebrity quietly traded their stylist for another, which stylist stole an MVP client from a peer, and so on. Tune in to hear their thoughts on the most exciting talent and stylist pairings in the game right now; what it takes for a duo to really make magic on the red carpet; the behind-the-scenes sponsorships and brand deals that are required to pay the bills; the magazine editor to celebrity stylist pipeline; YouTube, Instagram, and TikTok as the new launching pads for stylists’ careers; the intimacy of a stylist/client relationship; what happens when there’s a public falling out or switch-up in the styling world; how celebrities decide on a new aesthetic direction when they’re entering a new era; the tragedy of a brand ambassadorship that’s a bad fit; the rising stars on the styling scene to keep an eye on, and much more.This episode was recorded in the podcast studio at The SQ @ 205 Hudson.

This is a free preview of a paid episode. To hear more, visit thenewgarde.substack.comThis week’s episode is all stars, stripes, and style. Alyssa is joined by Biz Sherbert, the brilliant writer behind American Style on Substack and co-host of the podcast Nymphet Alumni, to go deep on how young people in our country are getting dressed and thinking about fashion. Tune in to hear Biz’s insights about how what people are wearing in real life is influenced by what people are wear…

This is a free preview of a paid episode. To hear more, visit thenewgarde.substack.comIt’s TNG’s first birthday! To celebrate, Alyssa called in the big guns: James Harris, co-host of Throwing Fits, came by for a rare one-on-one interview about his massive success in podcasting and beyond. Tune in for two straight hours of wisdom, as well as to hear how James fell into a fashion industry career by accident; what it was like navigating (and thriving in) the glory days of digital media; getting a web show with his co-host Larry at Complex a decade ago, and why “Fashion Bros” was ahead of its time; insights from his pivots to both tech and music; a fun recounting of the Throwing Fits origin story; figuring out how the hell you can make money in media these days; real talk about how hard and expensive it is to make clothes; how he decides what aspects of his life are fair game for content and what to keep private; a peek inside the TF meme machine; why you can absolutely never burn a bridge in this business; getting taken seriously in a notoriously self-serious industry; building and nurturing a community (shout-out Throw Gang!) both on and offline; an exclusive preview of the intro Pusha T would get if he goes on Throwing Fits, and much more.This episode was recorded in the podcast studio at The SQ @ 205 Hudson.

This is a free preview of a paid episode. To hear more, visit thenewgarde.substack.comIt’s the first Wednesday in May, which means it’s time to unpack this year’s Met Gala, celebrating the Costume Institute’s new exhibition, “Superfine: Tailoring Black Style.” To help break it all down, Alyssa is joined by Jalil Johnson — the stylish mind behind Consider Yourself Cultured on Substack, as well as a general man about town — who shares a wealth of insights about Black dandyism, the menswear and artwork on display inside the exhibit, the work of Monica L. Miller, the legacies of the late André Leon Talley and Virgil Abloh, and much more. Plus, a discussion about the evening’s best dressed, honest thoughts on the content ecosystem surrounding the red carpet, and Alyssa recaps her chaotic Monday night in the Louis Vuitton suite at the Mark Hotel with Pharrell and co. Til next year!This episode was recorded in the podcast studio at The SQ @ 205 Hudson.

This is a free preview of a paid episode. To hear more, visit thenewgarde.substack.comThis episode is for the REAL fashion heads and critical thinkers. This week, Alyssa sits down with the esteemed Rachel Tashjian, fashion critic at the Washington Post and the brains behind the cult-favorite, invite-only newsletter Opulent Tips, for a fascinating discussion about the state of fashion media and the industry at large. Tune in to hear about Rachel’s origin story as a blogger, plus her ascent up the masthead with stints at Vanity Fair (as a publicist!), Garage, GQ, and Harper’s Bazaar; what she learned studying the work of critics like Cathy Horyn and Robin Givhan; figuring out how to find the fashion angle in non-fashion stories, because that’s how so much of the world thinks; the value of having a good (and scrappy) attitude, as well as of asking for what you want; how to find your voice and your unique point of view, and why both are crucial to success; paying attention to what makes you a person and letting people see that; how working in men’s fashion differs from working in women’s fashion; writing for a magazine vs. a newspaper vs. your own audience; how her best bosses always led with integrity; looking at advertiser relationships as an interesting puzzle to solve, rather than a limitation; whether it’s easier or harder than ever to be a fashion journalist now; what happens when a designer or a brand takes issue with her reviews; the importance of always staying open to the next thing; starting Opulent Tips ahead of the Substack and recommendation newsletter boom; Lorde referencing Opulent Tips in her last album cycle, and so much more.This episode was recorded in the podcast studio at The SQ @ 205 Hudson.

Beauty has always sent big political messages, and that’s perhaps never been more evident than it is today. This week, Alyssa sits down with Jessica DeFino, the brilliant mind behind The Review of Beauty newsletter, to discuss the aesthetic vibe shift she’s seen since Trump was elected for his second term — and the conservative leaning beauty trends she saw bubbling up before then that were a harbinger of things to come. Tune in to hear how Jessica’s time working for the Kardashian official apps led her to question everything she thought about beauty, as well as her insights about why the “Clean Girl” trend was a huge indicator of something shifting and cosmetic class performance hidden as self-care; the recent glorification of the time, effort, and money that goes into looking beautiful, or the Protestant work ethic for prettiness; the regressive cultural return to traditional femininity and masculinity that’s tied to what’s happening in beauty; why exercising control and autonomy through beauty and our bodies is a direct reaction to the lack of autonomy we feel elsewhere in our lives; how MAHA has bled into the beauty and wellness industries, and why we should have seen the raw milk thing coming through the lens of beauty; how Mar-a-Lago face is meant to communicate power and your status as “elite” via work you’ve had done; unpacking the “Conservative Girl” and “Republican Makeup” trends on TikTok; the consequences of beauty ideals getting ingrained younger and younger; beauty as the new American dream, and where we find the identity and drive we used to derive from jobs; why beauty TikTok is the manosphere for women, and so much more. This episode was recorded in the podcast studio at The SQ @ 205 Hudson. This is a public episode. If you'd like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit thenewgarde.substack.com/subscribe

This is a free preview of a paid episode. To hear more, visit thenewgarde.substack.comIf you follow the fashion and beauty industries closely, then you know that a week rarely goes by without a brand collaboration announcement. From mall brands like J.Crew and Gap, to sportswear giants like Nike and Adidas, to luxury powerhouses like Louis Vuitton, Gucci, and Versace, brands across the market spectrum have entered the collaboration game — and those that haven’t are getting left behind. This week, Alyssa is joined by Steve Dool, senior director of brand marketing at Depop, to dig deep into the world of brand collabs. Tune in to hear Steve’s insights about what collaborations can do for small brands aside from a short-term infusion of money and exposure; the benefits on both sides of a partnership; why clout is fleeting and you need to be able to follow it up with other stuff; why the content surrounding a collaboration is often more important than the product itself; a frank discussion on what makes a smart partnership versus a confusing or pandering one; their personal highs and lows of collabs from the past few years; where the role of “celebrity creative director” is heading; whether we’ll ever reach “peak collab” or if this is just how things are now, and so much more.

This is a free preview of a paid episode. To hear more, visit thenewgarde.substack.comYou’ve likely noticed lot of talk about media’s “good ol’ days” bubbling up recently: Two of the most buzzed about books in New York’s literary circles are “When the Going Was Good,” Graydon Carter’s dishy memoir on the industry’s heyday, and the upcoming “Empire of the Elite,” a look back at Condé Nast’s golden age. Last week, Radhika Jones — one of the last remaining American editors (reportedly) to pull a seven-figure salary — announced her departure from Vanity Fair, where she’s been at the helm since 2017. This all begs the question: What lies ahead for magazines, and what power do legendary titles hold in 2025? This week, Alyssa is joined by Samantha Leach, associate director of special projects at Bustle and NYLON (and author of “The Elissas”), to discuss the state of both print and digital media in depth. Tune in to hear their insights about cover booking, as well as the politics and strategies behind it; the shift from journalists to creators when it comes to interviewing celebrities; how scrappiness in editorial can breed creativity and yield great results; the tricky topic of access to talent and dealing with increasing demands from publicists; how publishers can stay relevant during this time of major change; stealth sponsored content; why events are crucial for any media brand; why print is neither back nor dead, but a secret third thing, and so much more.

This is a free preview of a paid episode. To hear more, visit thenewgarde.substack.comYou’ve likely heard that the fragrance business is booming, and this week, Alyssa sits down with one of the newest perfumers on the scene: Trey Taylor, founder of Serviette, which launched earlier this year. Trey began his career by climbing the ranks in independent fashion media and earning a masters in fashion journalism at Central Saint Martins — complete with stints at Dazed, Fantastic Man, Interview, and The Face — before pivoting into beauty, building his brand as a side project while keeping a full time job. Tune in for some incredible tales from Trey’s time in editorial (and when he heard the death knell for his magazine career), as well as how his interest in fragrance piqued after writing an article about how celebrities smell; the challenges of being a niche brand in a massive market; what it was like learning the fragrance ropes from the legendary Marissa Zappas; the culture of Fragrantica and online perfume fandom; the process behind formulating the first four fragrances in his line, as well as its visual identity; why cultural curiosity is the driving force behind Serviette; why being delusional is important for success, and much more. This episode was recorded in the podcast studio at The SQ @ 205 Hudson.

This is a free preview of a paid episode. To hear more, visit thenewgarde.substack.comIf there’s a girl in your Instagram feed whose unique style strikes you — and who wears brands you hadn’t heard of before she posted them — chances are high that she shops at Maimoun. This week, Alyssa sits down with Mina Alyeshmerni, the store’s owner and curator, to talk all things retail, particularly the challenges that come with championing young, niche designers. Tune in to hear about Mina’s journey pursuing fashion in a first-generation Iranian family, as well as her experience training under Julie Gilhart and Tomoko Ogura at Barneys as a first foray into working with emerging designers, sometimes while they were still in school; what it was like working in the personal shopping department at Barneys in its heyday with high-profile clientele (and some personal shopping blind items); being an early proponent of mixing new and vintage at retail; digging deep into fashion forums online and surfing Tumblr to find design talent; building an audience and community on Instagram before opening her store by posting her fashion illustrations; starting an online business by herself; the risks and rewards that come with taking chances on unknown design talent; opening a permanent brick-and-mortar location in Williamsburg; the supportive, mentor-like relationships buyers can have with the designers they carry; how to build a curation; why POV is so important in every aspect of retail; why sometimes as an entrepreneur, ignorance is bliss, and much more.

This is a free preview of a paid episode. To hear more, visit thenewgarde.substack.comThe time has come for TNG’s biannual unhinged recap of Fashion Month, and this week’s guest, Tyler McCall, is back by popular demand. Tune in to hear the ladies’ takes on Fall 2025 season, including their insights on all of the best (and worst) collections, viral moments, breaking news, designer debuts and departures, front rows, models, and so much more. Enjoy!

This is a free preview of a paid episode. To hear more, visit thenewgarde.substack.comThis week, Alyssa gets a guided tour through the whimsical world of Susan Alexandra, straight from the brain behind the brand, Susan Korn. What started with some metal jewelry handmade in a class she took on her time off — and later, a beaded watermelon bag she had made in Chinatown and haphazardly posted on Instagram — has turned into a full-fledged, self-funded business that’s been around for over a decade, complete with a standalone retail store. Despite the brand’s perennial cheeriness, hitting this milestone hasn’t been a cakewalk. Tune in to hear Susan’s sage wisdom for entrepreneurs and aspiring designers, as well as her horror stories from working retail and interning at magazines upon arriving in New York; what it was like getting Henri Bendel and Opening Ceremony as early accounts; the difficulties of figuring out how to scale a business without training or infrastructure, and learning the logistics of manufacturing on the fly; the importance of community in the Susan Alexandra universe; her strategy for out-of-the-box runway shows and presentations; how collaborations allow her brand to make things out of its wheelhouse and take the work to the next level; selling (and explaining) herself to suits in order to win new business and lock in collaborators; starting a second brand, Rosette, with a friend and dipping her toe into making clothes; her dream of building a lifestyle brand akin to Ralph Lauren or Martha Stewart, and much more.This episode was recorded in the podcast studio at The SQ @ 205 Hudson.

This is a free preview of a paid episode. To hear more, visit thenewgarde.substack.comOne day, you’re just a girl moving to New York from Canada with a visa and a dream, and a few years down the line, you’re an in-demand industry success story. Such is the case with this week’s guest. Alyssa sits down with Ariella Starkman, founder and executive producer of the full-service creative production company Starkman & Associates, as well as the managing director at HommeGirls, to learn all about the wild world of production. You’ve likely seen one (or several) of Ariella’s events come across your Instagram or TikTok feed, as she and her team have built out experiences for some of the coolest, most sought-after brands on the scene, including Anna Sui, Dazed, Kim Shui, Luar, Nike, Sky High Farm, Stussy, Telfar, Vans, and Warby Parker. At a time when everyone is getting into the IRL activations game, Ariella operates under the philosophy that chic events are a dime a dozen, and making people feel like their time has been considered when they show up for something is crucial. Tune in to hear how Bravo’s “Gallery Girls” inspired Ariella to start a career in the art world and led her to produce her first event in her early 20s, a warehouse art show in Toronto; how time is our most valuable resource and making experiences worthwhile through the details is her company’s guiding principle; navigating the attention economy as a creative and a business owner; the importance of never phoning anything in; the dangers of “compare and despair;” why being the first person to do something is a double-edged sword, but while people may copy you, the sauce is not replicable; how to create a sense of curiosity by finding new, unexpected event spaces; why building a tight-knit professional community is key to finding meaning in your work; why at the end of the day, it’s just not that serious, and much more.This episode was recorded in the podcast studio at The SQ @ 205 Hudson.