The New Paris Podcast

This month is my 18th December living in Paris, and as I reflect on that time, I’m struck by how much the city still enchants and surprises me. It might be a buzzy neighborhood, a refurbished historical marvel like Notre Dame, a dining experience, or something more unexpected. Someone in the business of sussing out and building such experiences, including some I have attended, is today’s guest Catherine Down. She’s a food writer and travel and event consultant who joins to talk about the most surprising spaces and experiences in Paris, what she finds so meaningful about the city after 12 years as a resident and what she recommends if you’re coming to town this month.  Mentioned in this episode: Catherine Down Catherine's newsletter Catherine on Instagram Modern Love NYT essay Caractère de Cochon Le Marché Saint Germain Ice Skating at the Grand Palais  Café Mirabelle Le Doyenné  Repaire de Cartouche  Le Baron Rouge  Le Bon Marché  Audio production & editing: Matthew Jordan ⁠Music by Little Glass Men⁠

In times of turmoil, we naturally seek sources of calm. And in Paris, perhaps nothing that recenters Parisians more than the Seine. The city’s most iconic waterway has shaped its mythology long before there were tourist boats and selfie-taking travelers. Today, the significance of the Seine is front and center again, thanks to the Olympics and a billion-euro cleanup project. To talk about this, I’m joined by my friend and fellow journalist Mary Winston Nicklin, who reported National Geographic’s cover story on the Seine earlier this year. Mentioned in this episode: ⁠Mary Winston Nicklin⁠ ⁠National Geographic Cover Story (Online edition)⁠ The ancient goddess of the Seine River: Sequana ⁠The Man Who Swam the Seine⁠ (GQ) Audio production & editing: Matthew Jordan ⁠⁠Music by Little Glass Men⁠⁠

It’s been several months since the President threw us into a mess by calling a snap election and in early September, months overdue, Macron finally named a prime minister. What does his choice mean for the country, and what does it signal to voters who cast their ballots for the left coalition? I speak with Alexander Hurst, a writer and columnist for The Guardian whose recent op-ed looks into what went wrong and what issues the new government inherits.  Mentioned or featured in this episode: Alexander Hurst French politics analogy in the Guardian op-ed Alexander's op-ed column for The Guardian French debt French taxes Audio production & editing: Matthew Jordan ⁠Music by Little Glass Men

After enduring nearly a year of pandemic-related isolation and a punishing lack of human touch, author Glynnis MacNicol boarded a plane for Paris in August, 2021 to sublet a friend’s apartment for the month. She was 47 years old and on a mission—100% enjoyment. An exploration of pleasure. Close contact. Her memoir about this time, called I’m Mostly Here to Enjoy Myself, came out a few months ago and I was delighted to interview her in Paris last week at The Red Wheelbarrow bookstore. This episode is a recording of that conversation. Mentioned in this episode: Glynnic MacNicol Order "I'm Mostly Here to Enjoy Myself" Glynnis's New York Times Op-ed Glynnis on CBS Morning

After years of planning and a solid 7 months of Parisian complaining, the Olympics are here! Over their history, they have put some tourist destinations on the map, attempted to build unity, and accelerated social and infrastructural change in host cities. Of course, not everyone benefits, and the legacy of the Olympics, including the impact on tourism, is fraught. To discuss both Paris 2024 and the broader issue of tourism, the good, the bad, and the complicated, I'm joined by Paige Mclanahan, a fellow travel journalist and the author of the new book The New Tourist: Waking Up to the Power and Perils of Travel. Mentioned in this episode: Paige McClanahan's work Paige on Instagram The Better Travel Podcast Buy Paige's Book The Case Against Travel essay Copenhagen Rewards Tourists for Good Behavior Audio production & editing: Matthew Jordan ⁠Music by Little Glass Men⁠

In the last episode, you heard me talk to Katy Lee about the snap elections in France. Why they happened, what they mean, and what party was predicted to perform well in the first round. Now, the day before the second round and not only has everything we discussed come to pass, but the stakes are even higher now. Let's go through the results of the first round, what they mean, and why the far right really does present the same danger it always has for democracy in France. Mentioned in this episode: Episode 133 with Katy Lee Rym Momtaz on CNN Eric Fassin on France 24 1930s Germany French scientist op-ed in Le Monde Lauren Collins' newsletter Audio production & editing: Matthew Jordan ⁠⁠Music by Little Glass Men⁠

(This episode was recorded on June 14) There's a lot to unpack following President Macron’s decision to dissolve the lower house of parliament and call snap elections for the end of June and there is no one better to dive in with me than journalist and podcaster Katy Lee. We discuss the role of these elections, what Macron’s move means for the country, and the political alliances that have formed in record-breaking time. Is there reason to remain hopeful? Have a listen and find out.  Mentioned in this episode: Katy Lee of The Europeans podcast Katy Lee's Twitter (X) thread The Europeans episode on the European Elections Audio production & editing: Matthew Jordan ⁠Music by Little Glass Men⁠

There’s something about leaving Paris, even briefly, and returning that makes all of its idiosyncrasies and charms all the more compelling and obvious. And sometimes, it takes talking with someone who is a particularly keen observer of daily life to highlight these elements even further. Seb Emina, today’s guest, is one such example. The writer and former editor of The Happy Reader joins the show to talk about moving from London to Paris, the essence of the Parisian experience, and how he feels about the city hosting the Olympic Games.    Mentioned in this episode: Seb Emina Seb’s Substack: Read Me   The Happy Reader The Gentlewoman Le Musée des Arts Forains  Five Radio Stations Audio production & editing: Matthew Jordan ⁠Music by Little Glass Men⁠

As much as the Paris food scene has grown increasingly international and casual, fine dining establishments continue to soar. They’ve had to modernize their menus and their approaches to service to stay relevant, but the tasting menu and Michelin-starred experience continues to thrive. However, the way to do that while also opening up the experience to more people who can’t necessarily afford a Michelin meal is by expanding the offering in new ways. Few have done that better than La Tour d’Argent. Find out why and how! Mentioned in this episode: La Tour d'Argent Ratatouille restaurant Thierry Boeuf on La Tour Audio production & editing: Matthew Jordan ⁠Music by Little Glass Men⁠

When it comes to artistic endeavors, Paris shines bright as a historically welcome place to pursue them. The city that gave us the Louvre and some of the finest galleries in the world is full of creative talent or, at the very least, creative inspiration. But how it feels living and working as an artist in Paris is an altogether different story. Today’s guest trained as an architect but has been working as an illustrator and painter for several years and has a unique viewpoint on the arts. Guillaume Sardin has exhibited his work in Southeast Asia, South Africa, and throughout Europe, created works for French icons like Ruinart and Le Bristol, and talks today about how cultural preservation needs to be a bipartisan ambition.  Mentioned in this episode: Guillaume Sardin (website and Instagram) Nantes School of Architecture Créolization & Edouard Glissant French ministry of culture history Pierre Paulin room at the Elysée Palace Aya Nakamura and the Olympics Rachida Dati as Cultural Minister Stendhal's Syndrome Château d'Écouen- Renaissance Museum Château de Maisons Villa Savoye Château Rosa Bonheur Malmaison & Josephine Palais de la Porte Dorée History of Immigration Museum André and Ivana Lemaître Audio production & editing: Matthew Jordan Music by Little Glass Men

Running a business in Paris is a dream for some, a hardship for others. But for today’s guest, Jane Bertch, it has been a variety of things including life changing. 15 years ago she confounded La Cuisine Paris, a French cooking school that is still going strong. She talks about the journey to Paris and running a cooking school in her book: The French Ingredient: Making a Life in Paris One Lesson at a Time which hits shelves April 9. Our conversation covers the Jane from Chicago to the Jane of Paris, starting and running a business, lessons from locals, and writing a memoir.  Mentioned in this episode: Episode 9 with Jane Bertch Jane's book: The French Ingredient La Cuisine Paris cooking classes La Cuisine Paris on Instagram Jane Bertch on Instagram

There’s nothing like leaving Paris for a short time to reset perspectives. I’ve recently returned from 10 days in New York and the Philadelphia region and I was struck by how worn and behind both destinations felt. Part of that is lingering socio-economic impact of the pandemic, and part of it may be insufficient funds devoted to much-needed improvements to public services and transportation. It only served to amplify how good we have it in Paris where major infrastructural investment and urban rehabilitation policies have shaped the city. To talk about this, I'm joined by my friend Brent Longley, an urbanist who moved to Paris a year ago with fervent support for Mayor Hidalgo and her transformative policies. We discuss Paris as a global leader in urban transformation, the opposition that still exists to some of the changes underway, and where the Olympics fits into the equation of a sustainable metropolis.  Mentioned in this episode: Brent Longley, urbanist The Tryphena Project, Brent's newsletter Infill architecture Paris 2024 Olympic Games Audio production & editing: Matthew Jordan ⁠Music by Little Glass Men

Paris has always been a refuge for foreigners. For a lifetime for some, for a chapter of their lives for others. One of my very best friends in Paris was drawn to many of the qualities that I’ve described on the show over the years (and in The New Paris book) and falls into one of those categories. Like me, she’s been an avid storyteller and reporter covering the many ways that old meets new in the city and how it’s changed over the years. But now, she’s gearing up to leave which is exciting for her and sad for those who love her here. It seemed like the right time to have her on the show to talk about that particular Paris experience, and all of the things she’s seen change in the almost decade that she's lived here. And we made it nearly to the end without tears! Mentioned in this episode: Sara Lieberman Sara's newsletter Overthinking It Sara on Instagram Sara's GQ story on Mayor Hidalgo's swimmer son Hire Sara! Audio production & editing: Matthew Jordan ⁠⁠Music by Little Glass Men⁠

Welcome to the end of 2023! Let's take a look back at the challenging, protest-heavy, crisis-generating year in Paris and beyond, with a few thoughts for 2024. Bonnes fêtes et bonne année! Season 8 will begin in the second half of January. Buy my book: The New Paris Buy my book: The New Parisienne Follow me on social: @LindseyTramuta Follow the show: @TheNewParisPodcast Audio production & editing: Matthew Jordan Music by Little Glass Men

Paris has a long legacy not merely as a world capital of culture but as a literary capital. Some of the world’s greatest writers and thinkers have created some of their best work in or about Paris and found homes for it in bookstores, to be sure, but also libraries. Two years ago I interviewed the bestselling author Janet Skeslien Charles on this show about her novel The Paris Library (Episode 74) but today I’m excited to be joined by the executive director of The American Library in Paris Audrey Chapuis, someone I’ve had the great pleasure of collaborating with over the years as I’ve spoken at the library about my own work and moderated discussions for other authors. This fall, we were among the inaugural speakers at the Angers English language Literary Festival and Audrey spoke at length. In this conversation, we talk about her library path, bookish culture in Paris, the role that libraries play in the world and the role that this library has played since 1920, and much more. Mentioned in this episode: Audrey Chapuis The American Library in Paris Become a member Make a donation Proust and the Squid Sara Georgini Viet Thanh Nguyen Hala Alyan Kirstin Chen and Grace Ly in conversation On the Road events The BNF Galignani Bookstore Joan by Katherine Chen The Curse of the Marquis de Sade by Joel Warner Audio production & editing: Matthew Jordan ⁠⁠Music by Little Glass Men⁠

It’s the week of thanksgiving and that seems like an appropriate time to bring back an American friend. Amanda Bankert is a previous guest of this show (episode 8!) and the owner and pastry chef behind Boneshaker, the only donut shop in Paris worth your time, money, and sweet tooth. She’s also just released her first book in English called Voilà Vegan. We talk about how she got into baking, becoming vegan, how easy it is to find veggie or vegan food in Paris these days, and why all of this fits into evolving tastes in the food capital. Mentioned in this episode: Boneshaker Donuts & Coffee Boneshaker on Instagram Buy Voila Vegan Jah Jah Faubourg Daimant Plan D  VG Pâtisserie  Land & Monkeys  Tekés Le Petit Monstre, Brooklyn The Southern V, Nashville  Chambelland (gluten-free bakery) Audio production & editing: Matthew Jordan ⁠⁠Music by Little Glass Men⁠

I have been waiting to talk about the new book by today’s guest for years. Actually, since I met him some 7 years ago when he was already hard at work researching it. Jon Bonné has worked as a journalist for three decades and currently serves as the managing editor at RESY. He is, particularly for wine lovers, best known for his wine reporting and two essential wine books :The New California Wine and The New Wine Rules, which has sold more than 50,000 copies and has been adapted into numerous languages. But his latest, The New French Wine, which came out earlier this year, is his most deeply researched, chef d’oeuvre that tells the groundbreaking tale of the world's greatest wine culture at a moment of profound change. What follows was recorded several weeks ago when I had the great honor of leading a discussion with Jon about this immense project at The American Library in Paris.  Mentioned in this episode: The New French Wine Jon Bonné (On Instagram) Resy New York Times/Eric Asimov review of the book *Watch my conversation with Jon on YouTube Audio production & editing: Matthew Jordan ⁠⁠Music by Little Glass Men⁠

If you spend any amount of time on social media, chances are good you’ve come across the very viral videos of today’s guest. Cécilia Jourdan is a language teacher, content creator and entrepreneur who started Hello French in 2020 with an Instagram account that has since become a full blown business. She joins me today to talk about her trajectory from Paris to New York and in between, building a linguistic career, and what words and ideas seem to cut through the noise most on social media.  Mentioned in this episode: Hello French NYC Hello French on Instagram & TikTok The most viral video (on parenting) on Hello French Cécilia Jourdan in Le Monde

In the previous episode, you heard from four incredibly smart people invested in both raising awareness and pushing for change when it comes to the fashion industry as a whole. But what practical steps are needed? In this episode, I'm joined again by Aja Barber, Khémäis Ben Lakhdar, and Esha Chhabra to talk about accountability, transparency, decolonization, brands that are doing things right, and slowing down our own consumption as a means to extract ourselves from the performative cycle of fashion. Guests Aja Barber, activist, consultant and author of Consumed  Khémaïs Ben Lakhdar, fashion historian, lecturer, & PhD candidate at Paris-1 La Sorbonne Esha Chhabra, journalist and author of Working to Restore Mentioned in this episode Vogue Business Story on Post-Purchase Technology The Ugly History of Beautiful Things book Decolonizing Fashion Veja Nisolo Terra Thread Grace Wales Bonner Jamini  Habile  Nona Source About a Worker Special thanks to Matthew Jordan for producing and editing this episode.

(Special two-part episode!) Every season, all eyes are on the Parisian runways as onlookers try to get a peak at what big and disruptive trends await for the following year. But few know about the history of how this industry came to be, the role of colonialism in its development, and how the industry upholds many of the same ideas and practices today. As you will discover, the legacy of colonialism lives on within the fashion industry, and not only in France. You’re going to hear from a fashion historian, environmental journalists, and activists over the course of the next two episodes who will help me unpack the darker side to la mode, why it’s crucial to amend old ways and correct for generations of unethical labor and overproduction, and what the idea of decolonizing fashion really means. GUESTS Aja Barber, activist and author of Consumed  Khémaïs Ben Lakhdar, fashion historian, lecturer, & PhD candidate at Paris-1 La Sorbonne Esha Chhabra, journalist and author of Working to Restore Catherine Dauriac, President of Fashion REvolution France  SOURCES The King of Couture: The Atlantic The Empire of Fashion and the Rise of Capitalism in 18th century France (William H. Sewell) Colonialism's Clothing (Victoria L. Rovine) Aja on Al Jazeera Tiffanie Darke's Substack "It's Not Sustainable"  Clothing landfills in Ghana's textile market Waste Colonialism Special thanks to Matthew Jordan for producing and editing this episode.