The New Paris Podcast

Paris = luxury fashion, right? Louis Vuitton, Hermès, and Chanel are pillars of France’s soft power and legacy of craftsmanship. And they are among the most counterfeited brands in the world. That's part of what I learned reporting on secondhand luxury and authentication issues for Bloomberg Businessweek. I got to go behind the curtain at Vestiaire Collective, the leading French secondhand platform, to understand the surge in superfakes, how brands are responding to them, and how platforms like Vestiaire have become frontline defenders in this battle for authenticity. Today, I'm joined by Vestiaire's co-founder Fanny Moizant to talk about values, authentication, access, and how our relationship to French savoir-faire is evolving. Most of all, we'll discuss why secondhand no longer carries a stigma. Mentioned in this story: My Bloomberg Businessweek reportVestiaire Collective Fanny Moizant

Today's guest, André Michel, is a Paris insider; the unofficial Mayor of Paris with a deep and varied knowledge of food and culture, and a talent for weaving it all into compelling storytelling and events. The occasional food and travel writer and event organizer joins me to talk about what it means to know Paris, why there’s never been a better or more dynamic time to visit or live in Paris, and what travelers should check out this summer.Mentioned in this episode: André MichelThe Butcher of ParisBruno Verjus / Table Capital in the 21st Century by Thomas PikettyJacques Genin⁠⁠Jade Genin⁠⁠Cheval d'Or Othership NYLa Vasque Olympique Audio production & editing: Matthew Jordan⁠Music by Little Glass Men⁠

Diehard fans of Paris already know there’s never been a shortage of activities to fill one’s intellectual and cultural cup. Art openings, talks and conferences, concerts and performances happen every day of the week. But if you’re interested in learning in a classroom setting without going back to school in the traditional sense, the options dry up. That’s where Off Campus steps in. It’s a two-month-old coffee shop and bookstore launched by two friends that has a special room dedicated to classes for adults. I’m joined by the co-founder Siham Jibril to talk about what sparked the idea, why there’s more interest in continuing education, and which themes resonate most with Parisians. Mentioned in this episode:Off CampusOff Campus on Instagram Bonjour JacobShakespeare & Co Galignani MK2 Bibliothèque Audio production & editing: Matthew Jordan⁠Music by Little Glass Men⁠

My new book is officially on shelves! To celebrate, The Red Wheelbarrow bookstore hosted me for a launch event last week. At the start, I was in conversation about the project (and more) with the legendary New York Times bestselling and James Beard Award–winning cookbook author Dorie Greenspan. This episode is an edited version of that discussion. Mentioned in this episode: The Eater Guide to ParisDorie Greenspan Julien Pham / Phamily First Kubri / Rita HigginsAudio production & editing: Matthew Jordan⁠Music by Little Glass Men⁠

In the canon of Paris narratives, few focus on oddball finds and secrets lurking right beneath our noses. But Vanessa Grall, more commonly known and Messy Nessy, has made it her calling card. For more than a decade she has sussed out offbeat tales and fascinating individuals who have shaped our world and published several guidebooks to help travelers get beyond the obvious. More than a year ago, she opened a storefront, Messy Nessy’s Cabinet, a shop full of curiosities she joins me to talk about today. Mentioned in this episode:Messy Nessy Chic Messy Nessy's CabinetBottled Seine water Suzanne ValadonDon't Be a Tourist guidesMessy Nessy Instagram Audio production & editing: Matthew Jordan⁠Music by Little Glass Men⁠

So far, the year in Paris has been bright — at least in a cultural sense. The Louvre Museum is leading the charge with its very first full-fledged fashion exhibition in its 232-year history. To talk about why it’s significant, what visitors can expect, and the cultural context surrounding the pieces on display is Amy Verner, a fashion journalist and longtime Paris resident who has likely spent more time pondering the works inside the Louvre than all of my listeners combined. Mentioned in this episode:Amy VernerLouvre CoutureOlivier GabetLouvre renovation plan Elaine Sciolino's new book "Adventures in the Louvre"

Like many people living in France, I took a break from alcohol during the imported milestone of Dry January. But we’re in February, and two wine fairs have brought wine lovers and wine pros to the city for talks, tastings, and buying. Wine consumption has been dropping steadily in France, and sales have declined since the 1970s. So what’s happening here? How are people drinking? Are they drinking? What’s the status of natural wine today? Where should people go to drink well in Paris if they’re going to do so? I'm joined by Alicia Dorey, a wine journalist who writes regularly for Le Figaro, to talk about the ins and outs of wine consumption.Mentioned in this episode: Alicia DoreyAlicia's book A Nos Ivresses Austrian wine pop-up in ParisLes Caves LegrandVivant and DéviantAugustin Marchand d'Vins Audio production & editing: Matthew Jordan⁠Music by Little Glass Men⁠

A quick one from me to kickoff season 9 and share some fun news: I have a new book coming out this spring!The Eater Guide to Paris hits shelves on April 29 in the U.S. /Australia/Europe and on May 8 in the U.K., wherever books are sold. A few links below to pre-order now:Abrams (publisher)Bookshop.orgBarnes & NobleAmazon (U.S.)Shakespeare & CoWaterstonesIndigo BooksBooktopia (Australia)Audio production & editing: Matthew Jordan⁠Music by Little Glass Men⁠

This month is my 18th December living in Paris, and as I reflect on that time, I’m struck by how much the city still enchants and surprises me. It might be a buzzy neighborhood, a refurbished historical marvel like Notre Dame, a dining experience, or something more unexpected. Someone in the business of sussing out and building such experiences, including some I have attended, is today’s guest Catherine Down. She’s a food writer and travel and event consultant who joins to talk about the most surprising spaces and experiences in Paris, what she finds so meaningful about the city after 12 years as a resident and what she recommends if you’re coming to town this month.  Mentioned in this episode: Catherine Down Catherine's newsletter Catherine on Instagram Modern Love NYT essay Caractère de Cochon Le Marché Saint Germain Ice Skating at the Grand Palais  Café Mirabelle Le Doyenné  Repaire de Cartouche  Le Baron Rouge  Le Bon Marché  Audio production & editing: Matthew Jordan ⁠Music by Little Glass Men⁠

In times of turmoil, we naturally seek sources of calm. And in Paris, perhaps nothing that recenters Parisians more than the Seine. The city’s most iconic waterway has shaped its mythology long before there were tourist boats and selfie-taking travelers. Today, the significance of the Seine is front and center again, thanks to the Olympics and a billion-euro cleanup project. To talk about this, I’m joined by my friend and fellow journalist Mary Winston Nicklin, who reported National Geographic’s cover story on the Seine earlier this year. Mentioned in this episode: ⁠Mary Winston Nicklin⁠ ⁠National Geographic Cover Story (Online edition)⁠ The ancient goddess of the Seine River: Sequana ⁠The Man Who Swam the Seine⁠ (GQ) Audio production & editing: Matthew Jordan ⁠⁠Music by Little Glass Men⁠⁠

It’s been several months since the President threw us into a mess by calling a snap election and in early September, months overdue, Macron finally named a prime minister. What does his choice mean for the country, and what does it signal to voters who cast their ballots for the left coalition? I speak with Alexander Hurst, a writer and columnist for The Guardian whose recent op-ed looks into what went wrong and what issues the new government inherits.  Mentioned or featured in this episode: Alexander Hurst French politics analogy in the Guardian op-ed Alexander's op-ed column for The Guardian French debt French taxes Audio production & editing: Matthew Jordan ⁠Music by Little Glass Men

After enduring nearly a year of pandemic-related isolation and a punishing lack of human touch, author Glynnis MacNicol boarded a plane for Paris in August, 2021 to sublet a friend’s apartment for the month. She was 47 years old and on a mission—100% enjoyment. An exploration of pleasure. Close contact. Her memoir about this time, called I’m Mostly Here to Enjoy Myself, came out a few months ago and I was delighted to interview her in Paris last week at The Red Wheelbarrow bookstore. This episode is a recording of that conversation. Mentioned in this episode: Glynnic MacNicol Order "I'm Mostly Here to Enjoy Myself" Glynnis's New York Times Op-ed Glynnis on CBS Morning

After years of planning and a solid 7 months of Parisian complaining, the Olympics are here! Over their history, they have put some tourist destinations on the map, attempted to build unity, and accelerated social and infrastructural change in host cities. Of course, not everyone benefits, and the legacy of the Olympics, including the impact on tourism, is fraught. To discuss both Paris 2024 and the broader issue of tourism, the good, the bad, and the complicated, I'm joined by Paige Mclanahan, a fellow travel journalist and the author of the new book The New Tourist: Waking Up to the Power and Perils of Travel. Mentioned in this episode: Paige McClanahan's work Paige on Instagram The Better Travel Podcast Buy Paige's Book The Case Against Travel essay Copenhagen Rewards Tourists for Good Behavior Audio production & editing: Matthew Jordan ⁠Music by Little Glass Men⁠

In the last episode, you heard me talk to Katy Lee about the snap elections in France. Why they happened, what they mean, and what party was predicted to perform well in the first round. Now, the day before the second round and not only has everything we discussed come to pass, but the stakes are even higher now. Let's go through the results of the first round, what they mean, and why the far right really does present the same danger it always has for democracy in France. Mentioned in this episode: Episode 133 with Katy Lee Rym Momtaz on CNN Eric Fassin on France 24 1930s Germany French scientist op-ed in Le Monde Lauren Collins' newsletter Audio production & editing: Matthew Jordan ⁠⁠Music by Little Glass Men⁠

(This episode was recorded on June 14) There's a lot to unpack following President Macron’s decision to dissolve the lower house of parliament and call snap elections for the end of June and there is no one better to dive in with me than journalist and podcaster Katy Lee. We discuss the role of these elections, what Macron’s move means for the country, and the political alliances that have formed in record-breaking time. Is there reason to remain hopeful? Have a listen and find out.  Mentioned in this episode: Katy Lee of The Europeans podcast Katy Lee's Twitter (X) thread The Europeans episode on the European Elections Audio production & editing: Matthew Jordan ⁠Music by Little Glass Men⁠

There’s something about leaving Paris, even briefly, and returning that makes all of its idiosyncrasies and charms all the more compelling and obvious. And sometimes, it takes talking with someone who is a particularly keen observer of daily life to highlight these elements even further. Seb Emina, today’s guest, is one such example. The writer and former editor of The Happy Reader joins the show to talk about moving from London to Paris, the essence of the Parisian experience, and how he feels about the city hosting the Olympic Games.    Mentioned in this episode: Seb Emina Seb’s Substack: Read Me   The Happy Reader The Gentlewoman Le Musée des Arts Forains  Five Radio Stations Audio production & editing: Matthew Jordan ⁠Music by Little Glass Men⁠

As much as the Paris food scene has grown increasingly international and casual, fine dining establishments continue to soar. They’ve had to modernize their menus and their approaches to service to stay relevant, but the tasting menu and Michelin-starred experience continues to thrive. However, the way to do that while also opening up the experience to more people who can’t necessarily afford a Michelin meal is by expanding the offering in new ways. Few have done that better than La Tour d’Argent. Find out why and how! Mentioned in this episode: La Tour d'Argent Ratatouille restaurant Thierry Boeuf on La Tour Audio production & editing: Matthew Jordan ⁠Music by Little Glass Men⁠

When it comes to artistic endeavors, Paris shines bright as a historically welcome place to pursue them. The city that gave us the Louvre and some of the finest galleries in the world is full of creative talent or, at the very least, creative inspiration. But how it feels living and working as an artist in Paris is an altogether different story. Today’s guest trained as an architect but has been working as an illustrator and painter for several years and has a unique viewpoint on the arts. Guillaume Sardin has exhibited his work in Southeast Asia, South Africa, and throughout Europe, created works for French icons like Ruinart and Le Bristol, and talks today about how cultural preservation needs to be a bipartisan ambition.  Mentioned in this episode: Guillaume Sardin (website and Instagram) Nantes School of Architecture Créolization & Edouard Glissant French ministry of culture history Pierre Paulin room at the Elysée Palace Aya Nakamura and the Olympics Rachida Dati as Cultural Minister Stendhal's Syndrome Château d'Écouen- Renaissance Museum Château de Maisons Villa Savoye Château Rosa Bonheur Malmaison & Josephine Palais de la Porte Dorée History of Immigration Museum André and Ivana Lemaître Audio production & editing: Matthew Jordan Music by Little Glass Men

Running a business in Paris is a dream for some, a hardship for others. But for today’s guest, Jane Bertch, it has been a variety of things including life changing. 15 years ago she confounded La Cuisine Paris, a French cooking school that is still going strong. She talks about the journey to Paris and running a cooking school in her book: The French Ingredient: Making a Life in Paris One Lesson at a Time which hits shelves April 9. Our conversation covers the Jane from Chicago to the Jane of Paris, starting and running a business, lessons from locals, and writing a memoir.  Mentioned in this episode: Episode 9 with Jane Bertch Jane's book: The French Ingredient La Cuisine Paris cooking classes La Cuisine Paris on Instagram Jane Bertch on Instagram

There’s nothing like leaving Paris for a short time to reset perspectives. I’ve recently returned from 10 days in New York and the Philadelphia region and I was struck by how worn and behind both destinations felt. Part of that is lingering socio-economic impact of the pandemic, and part of it may be insufficient funds devoted to much-needed improvements to public services and transportation. It only served to amplify how good we have it in Paris where major infrastructural investment and urban rehabilitation policies have shaped the city. To talk about this, I'm joined by my friend Brent Longley, an urbanist who moved to Paris a year ago with fervent support for Mayor Hidalgo and her transformative policies. We discuss Paris as a global leader in urban transformation, the opposition that still exists to some of the changes underway, and where the Olympics fits into the equation of a sustainable metropolis.  Mentioned in this episode: Brent Longley, urbanist The Tryphena Project, Brent's newsletter Infill architecture Paris 2024 Olympic Games Audio production & editing: Matthew Jordan ⁠Music by Little Glass Men