The Podcast on alanarnette.com

I caught up with Everest Climber Eric Gran from Dingboche. This is Eric's first trip to Nepal and he describes the journey thus far for #Everest2021. --- Support this podcast: https://podcasters.spotify.com/pod/show/alan-arnette1/support

The number of permits continues to rise for Everest. Now at 290 spread across 30 teams, it appears Everest will be crowded again for this spring of 2021. Reports are coming in of low snow amounts this past winter so rockfall may be an issue, especially with so many people climbing together. We saw this same objective danger on K2 this past winter. Base Camp is filling up as more teams continue to end their trek. They are taking a few days to rest and brush up on skills before making their first rotation to Camps 1 and 2 in the Western Cwm. Internet service at EBC appears to be spotty according to many reports I'm getting. Climbers are having to do "walkabouts" to find a signal. This happens all the time with Ncell, the mobile phone provider, but for EverestLink, it's usually more reliable and available. I'm sure they will improve it. There appears the be the usual profiles on the peak Many who had permits for last year, jumped at the chance to go this year.  Also, there are the "repeat" customers who have tried before and not made it for a variety of reasons and, also, as usual, there are those who are seeking to make a name by a "first." Let's drill down on a few. --- Support this podcast: https://podcasters.spotify.com/pod/show/alan-arnette1/support

The Everest 2021 season is right on track with teams pouring into base camp. However, this year remains different with few trekking teams on the trails resulting in almost empty teahouses and some closed, perhaps forever. Remember that the Tibet side is closed to foreigners and I don't expect updates from the Chinese team or two that might climb this spring. --- Support this podcast: https://podcasters.spotify.com/pod/show/alan-arnette1/support

Welcome to the kick-off of Everyday Everest, my new Podcast series during the Everest 2024 climbing season. Based on my 2020 Virtual Everest series, I'll read an updated version of the story a couple of times a week for the next two months. Everyday Everest follows a fictional team of nine climbers and their personal Sherpas from leaving home, trekking to base camp, acclimatizing, and finally, on their summit push. The story's protagonist, Harper, sets the tone for the story when she tells her husband, Marc, "Honey, I'm going to climb Everest." #everest2024 Climb On! Alan Memories are Everything https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2024/04/08/everest-2024-everyday-everest-podcast-series-welcome-and-part-1/ --- Support this podcast: https://podcasters.spotify.com/pod/show/alan-arnette1/support

2022 will be my 19th season of all-things Everest: 14 times providing coverage, another four seasons of actually climbing on Everest, and two years attempting Lhotse. I did similar coverage for the 2004, 2005, 2006, 2007, 2009, 2010, 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018, 2019 and 2021 seasons. In 2020, I did a fictitious Virtual Everest series available as an e-Bookhttps://podcasters.spotify.com/pod/show/alan-arnette1/support

Garrett Madison, founder of Madison Mountaineering has now summited K2 three times. Only one other person has more. This is his sixth expedition to K2 making him the most experienced western operator to run regular trips to the Northern Terrorities of Pakistan. He was the leader for the 21 person team who submitted on July 28, 2018, at approximately 6:07 AM PKT (local time) We discussed his team summit plus the latest on finding the bodies of the 3 missing winter climbers. And an update on the West Ridge effort - it's not over.  In Garret's own words:   "Yesterday our whole team stood atop the world’s 2nd highest peak, today we all reached base camp safely. We were very lucky with not even a breath of wind at the summit, clear views in all directions, and excellent route conditions. It was spectacular! . In a season where most teams canceled their K2 expedition plans due to Covid travel restrictions, we found a way to make it happen thanks to great partners, persistence, and a positive attitude. We had the mountain and route nearly all to ourselves compared to the last time I was here during a ‘normal’ season in 2019. . Things went so smoothly and ahead of schedule once we arrived in Pakistan just over a month ago that I was nervous something unanticipated would stop us dead in our tracks…or worse. But the mountain opened its arms and welcomed us to the top, granting us a 5-day weather window to make our summit bid. Our @madisonmtng Sherpa / Pakistani team worked tirelessly with the other Sherpa team here and got the route fixing done, a major component of our success on K2. . K2 is likely the world’s most deadly mountain with a ~25% death rate (deaths on attempt vs summits). K2 and Annapurna have traded places as the world’s most deadly peak in recent years…Currently, only I and 2 other climbers have reached the top of K2 three times (a Pakistani and a Nepalese Sherpa). I’ve never lost a client or staff member on K2, but I’ve seen others perish here. It’s a lot more rugged and dangerous than climbing Mount Everest, to say the least. We’ve had a few ‘near misses’ with rockfall and avalanches but all okay so far. I’m grateful we are all down safe from our climb on the ‘Savage Mountain’!"  Climb On! Alan Memories are Everything --- Support this podcast: https://podcasters.spotify.com/pod/show/alan-arnette1/support

In this Podcast I cover the recent events in Pakistan's Northern Territories on K2, Broad Peak and Gasherbrum I & II. Heavy snowfall and high winds have delayed progress on K2 but there have been summits on Gasherbrum II and Broad Peak along with the death of Mr. Kim Hong-Bin, 57. The bodies of winter K2 climbers Pakistani Ali Sadpara, Icelander John Snorri, and Chilean Juan Pablo Mohr Prieto who went missing were found between the Bottleneck and High Camp. Over 50 climbers are expected to summit K2, barring any major problems over the next two days, July 27 and 28. I discuss all of this and more. Climb On! Alan Memories are Everything --- Support this podcast: https://podcasters.spotify.com/pod/show/alan-arnette1/support

Garrett Madison, founder of Madison Mountaineering is one of the few people on the planet to have summited K2 twice. He's hoping to get his third this 2021 summer. This is his sixth expedition to K2 making him the most experienced western operator to run regular trips to the Northern Terrorities of Pakistan. With the new 4G Cell tower in Concordia, Garret took the hour walk from K2 Base Camp to Broad Peak Base Camp to talk with me over Zoom about his expedition. We discussed their rotations to Camp 1 and 2, the snow conditions on the mountain, what happens when he finds bodies on the mountain and more.  I think you'll enjoy getting this first-hand information directly from Northern Pakistan. Climb On! Alan Memories are Everything --- Support this podcast: https://podcasters.spotify.com/pod/show/alan-arnette1/support

The 2021 summer climbing season in Pakistan's Kararum Range is heating up as we approach mid-way through the season. Teams are making great progress with Camps set as high as 7,000-meters, C3 on K2 and Broad Peak. Also, we already have summits on Gasherbrum II by a French team who skied down. Then there was a guide who paraglided off Broad Peak around 6600-meters. So lots of activities I discuss in this episode plus I talk through the climb on K2 from Base Camp to Advanced base Camp, then Camp 1 and Camp 2 along with a lot of pictures of the YouTube version.  I hope you enjoy it.  Climb On! Alan Memories are everything --- Support this podcast: https://podcasters.spotify.com/pod/show/alan-arnette1/support

The 2021 climbing season on North America's highest peak, Denali, is nearing the end. I take a look at some "fun facts" and how this season has progressed. --- Support this podcast: https://podcasters.spotify.com/pod/show/alan-arnette1/support

This summer K2 will see a rare event, an attempt on the fully unclimbed West Ridge. Canadian Ian Welsted and American Graham Zimmerman will make an alpine attempt with no oxygen. While the route has been partially climbed three times, the final few hundred meters have never been completed for various reasons. They leave for Pakistan on June 17. After an extensive acclimatization program which may include climbing the 8000er Broad Peak, they hope to summit near the end of July.  Ian and Graham have a long impressive history of difficult technical climbs. Graham has climbed the 7000-meters peaks including: Southwest Ridge of K6 West (7040m), Pakistani Karakoram North ridge of Changi tower (6500m), Pakistani Karakoram Northeast buttress of Mt. Laurens, Alaska Southeast Face of Link Sar (7041m), Pakistani Karakoram. He told me: The Karakoram is the mountain range that I find most inspiring. It is where I have seen some of my biggest success as an alpinist, and it is where I have learned some of my most important lessons.There is one peak in the Karakoram that literally stands above the rest, a peak that I have seen on the horizon from several different summits and has always attracted my attention, the majestic and steep 8611m Chogori, or K2. From the Canadian Alpine Club on Ian: Ian is best known in climbing circles as one of only two Canadians to be awarded the Piolets D'or, for his first ascent of K6 West (7000m) in Pakistan. Born and raised in Brandon Manitoba Ian moved to Chamonix France at the age of 17. From this year in the mountains he returned to Canada to attend Ottawa University and McGill University where he studied economics and philosophy. In his youth, Ian ski raced but was exposed to the full gamut of mountain pursuits in Chamonix. From skiing and snowboarding the backcountry powder of Nelson and Rogers Pass he moved to Canmore in 2005. Quickly integrating into the climbing community, he pursued waterfall ice climbing with 100 day winters before turning his attention to alpine first ascents. With this experience he began casting further afield and undertook expeditions to the Coast Range, Patagonia, Denali, to the Khumbu area of Nepal, and 3 trips to the Pakistani Karakoram. In 2016 Ian began the process of gaining ACMG certification so that he can share his experience gained over 25 years, and his love of the mountains. I was able to get Graham for an extensive interview on the climb. We cover a lot of topics including: His and Ian's history (both Piolet d’Or winners) The style of climbing The route And their plans on how to return from the summit and more Best of luck to Ian and Graham. Let's chat when you get back. Climb On! Alan Memories are Everything --- Support this podcast: https://podcasters.spotify.com/pod/show/alan-arnette1/support

Art Muir at age 75 became the oldest American to summit Mt. Everest on May 12, 2021, with Maddison Mountaineering. He surpassed Bill Burke who held the American Everest age record for 11 years. Burke summited at age 67 on the Nepal side and again from the Tibet side in 2014 at 72. Japanese mountaineer Yoichiro Miura is the oldest person to summit in 2013 at age 80. I spoke with Art about his motivation, how his family felt about his plans, his 2019 attempt, prior climbing experience then we got into his training, diet and experience on the climb. We wrapped up with Art's thoughts on seniors climbing and staying active. --- Support this podcast: https://podcasters.spotify.com/pod/show/alan-arnette1/support

As I sat down to write a recap of the 2021 spring season on Everest, these words came to mind: COVID, coverup, lies, misdirection, personal attacks, denials. Oh, and cyclones, wind, waiting, risk, and yes, summits. But, oh my, at what a cost? If 2019 was the year Everest broke, 2021 was the year Nepal broke Everest. With 2020 lost to the global pandemic, Nepal was desperate to rebuild its tourism industry. Last autumn, a few teams returned, but spring was the key. Everest served as a light to a swarm of eager climbers. The Ministry of Tourism, MoT, knew this and successfully lobbied; well, it’s unclear who they lobbied, but they removed any barriers that would discourage visitors. Sigh, Everest has become what everyone hoped it wouldn’t and knew it would. Nepal’s government has met every stereotype of why the governments can’t be trusted. Sadly, some climbers continue to serve as Exhibit A for those who criticize them for inexperience and dependency. Some operators gave further evidence as to why they appear to only care about being paid, and not their client’s safety. Some guide’s actions suggest that their primary interest appears to further their own reputation even at the risk of other’s well-being. Meanwhile, there were operators and guides who made bold, courageous decisions at the risk of their own business interests. We saw individual climbers chose their future or their present. And, yes, there were some in government and Nepal climbing community who tried to call out the wrong but were ignored. As one person told me, “In Nepal, it is better to build trust and work from the inside than to shout from the outside.” Over 500 people summited Everest this spring. Each person will return home changed. It’s up to each person to determine how they use those changes. Congratulations to all and may the lessons presented today be heeded by tomorrow’s climbers. --- Support this podcast: https://podcasters.spotify.com/pod/show/alan-arnette1/support

Heavy snow was reported on Everest, but some teams are reporting low winds. Once again, the truth is opaque on Everest. The gag order by the Nepal government has had a dramatic impact on teams’ willingness to share any information that could be construed as negative, thus all the happy talk. A handful of teams are still eyeing the end of the month for one last try. Cyclone Yaas is expected to touch Everest for another 24 to 48 hours or until May 29, thus leaving an opening as early as Saturday but more likely Sunday and Monday. No doubt any team trying to make this last chance will be met with deep snow. It will take a strong group of many Sherpas to break trail.  Avalanche risk may be present especially since the teams will not have the choice to wait a day or two for the layers to bond. Meanwhile, in a press release, Nepal’s home ministry calls expedition agencies and tourism officials ‘to make an immediate return of climbers from mountains.” Most computer-based weather forecasts call for winds to decrease to under 15 mph starting on Sunday, May 30. --- Support this podcast: https://podcasters.spotify.com/pod/show/alan-arnette1/support

We saw summit wave 3 today, Sunday, May 23 2021 on #Everest2021. Estimates range from 150 to 170 summits, including Sherpas. This takes the season total to around 300 total summits, way off from the 2019 record 660 just on the Nepal side. High winds delayed departure from the South Col by several hours. Another 100 or so climbers are staged ready to summit Monday morning, May 24 before a big change in the weather. --- Support this podcast: https://podcasters.spotify.com/pod/show/alan-arnette1/support

Teams are making serious summit plans with a few already staged at the South Col albeit in windy conditions. In fact, it’s too windy to go for the summit so they will hold in place Saturday, May 22 hoping to leave late Saturday night for a Sunday, May 23rd summit. It’s all about risk management at this moment. --- Support this podcast: https://podcasters.spotify.com/pod/show/alan-arnette1/support

The remanence of Cyclone Tauktae is playing cat and mouse with the aggressive teams. Madison Mountaineering hoped to get a jump on everyone and went to C3 only to find high winds. Four Sherpas from IMG made it to the South Col and also reported high winds. So the summit plans are off by a day with Madison now targeting May 22. Big Picture Teams are scattered from base camp to the South Col. Most appear to be targeting May 21 through the 24 for their summit. Sherpas stocked the Col over a week ago with supplies needed for the summit, however, some tents are reported to been blown away by the winds from Cyclone TC01A aka Tauktae. As I posted yesterday due to warm temps this season, the Icefall Doc saying the route will be closed on Saturday, May 29. Complicating matters is another cyclone brewing in the Bay of Bengal that might, might, impact Everest around May 27/28/29. But given the Icefall closure, teams need to be off the upper mountain by then anyway. So that leaves us with low-wind days between May 23rd through May 26th. As for crowds, well it depends. First on the number of summit days, second on how many members are really left, and third on the willingness of the guides to thread this tiny eye of the needle. Obviously, the more days of low winds, the less chance of crowds. Hopefully, we’ll see a lot this weekend to clear off the mountain for those leaving base camp now. As for how many members are left, it’s hard to get a reading on that given the cover-ups, lack of transparency, and gag orders from both the government and the operators. But it’s their choice as to how much to share, my job to ferret it out 🙂 At this point, It’s safe to say that there are fewer than we thought a month ago. Finally as for the eye of the needle, well this is why people hire guides – for their experience, connections, and judgment. I wish them all well. --- Support this podcast: https://podcasters.spotify.com/pod/show/alan-arnette1/support

The good news is the jet stream is easing off Everest as it moves north, the bad news is a cyclone skirting the west coast of India is expected to turn right running perpendicular to the Himalayas bringing strong weather along with it. It could "flood the mountain" according to meteorologist Chris Tomer and Everest Weather's Michael Fagin. Chris has told his clients on Everest and Makalu to "stand down" and wait this event out.  Cyclone TC01A aka Tauktae is predicted to bring heavy snow, perhaps two feet to Dhaulagiri, and strong winds to Makalu and Everest on May 18-21. Chris and Michael both think it will be a relatively fast event and summit bids can continue after the 22nd. That would leave plenty of time for the remaining 300 climbers to get up and off before the traditional end of Nepal side around May 31. So much for my talk of a "short season" just yesterday!  I had the rare opportunity to discuss this event with Michael and Chris on Sunday afternoon, May 16, 2021.  Climb On! Alan Memories are Everything --- Support this podcast: https://podcasters.spotify.com/pod/show/alan-arnette1/support

The #Everest2021 scene is quiet now with the jet stream on top of the summit. On the Tibet side, China canceled the only expedition there.  I’m getting a few reports of high winds at C3 from the last rotation, and it’s worse now. That said, look for teams to begin their summit bids aiming for May 19-23. If for next week they will leave EBC on Monday, May 17th, or perhaps this weekend.  Sadly death on Everest occurs almost every year. Since 1953, only 1965, 1971, and 1985 saw no deaths when people climbed that year. In 2021, we have seen two deaths already. In this episode, I examine deaths on Everest, the reasons, and perhaps how to avoid it.  As always, visit my blog at alanarnette.com for more details. I usually do a YouTube and podcast for each post but not always. --- Support this podcast: https://podcasters.spotify.com/pod/show/alan-arnette1/support

The rope fixing team made the summit on Friday, May 7, 2021, opening the route to the over 300 climbers left at base camp. The weather remains good, for Everest, so look for many teams to jump on this window. Meanwhile, it appears that the virus spread has stalled for the moment with no new cases reported at EBC for over a week. It’s unknown if this is real or more coverups. The Nepal government announced plans to assist climbers in leaving Nepal and another ban on any negative news saying “as it could terrorise the mountaineers as well as their family members.” I think someone climbing Everest can handle the truth. --- Support this podcast: https://podcasters.spotify.com/pod/show/alan-arnette1/support