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The Testpiece Podcast

Author: Testpiece

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A podcast about high level climbing. How to go from good to great.

100 Episodes
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Send us a Text Message. Episode #100!!!! Thank you all for the support. What a journey it’s been. This episode was an absolute banger that encapsulates a lot of the Testpiece message. Tim and Josh break down the ‘Simple’ path that the best climbers follow to being great. And then they detail the appropriate role that strength plays in this path. They also go over the latest news and cover the amazing media that has been dropping as well as a quick review of the Moon...
Send us a Text Message.Nina Williams pushes the limits in every discipline of climbing there is… comps, bouldering, highball bouldering, big wall, sport climbing, and even free soloing.In this episode she takes us through a harrowing experience she had while free soloing the Casual Route of the Diamond, a multi pitch 5.10. Nina ended up off route during the climb and thus onsight free soloing, 800 feet off the deck.Nina also shares what has propelled her to explore and master the different di...
Send us a Text Message.Tim Kang was just in SLC for the World Cup and NACS. He got to watch and session with some of the best climbers in the world. Hear from Tim what his major takeaways were that can help you too.SHOW NOTES:Honnold’s Comments About Competitions and $Petzl Roc TripJames-Caro Wedding PresentSupport the Show.Support us on Patreon: HEREVisit our podcast page: HERESign-up with one of our coaches: HEREFollow us on Instagram: HERE
Send us a Text Message.Davin Bagdonas has developed 1000’s of climbs all over the world. Elite climbers, fellow adventurers, and previous podcast guests, like Jimmy Webb, Jamie Emerson, Roman Yalowitz, Eric Jerome call up Davin when they want to go on a wild adventure to try to find the best boulders in the world.Davin takes us on a trip around the world to places fraught with danger, and explains this up and comping lens on climbing termed “Alpine Fusion”. This is where you go deep into the ...
Send us a Text Message.You’re midway through a redpoint burn and you’re tired. There’s a bunch of moves to go and you tell yourself that you’re so tired right now there’s no way you’ll ever send. But the truth is, you have no idea how far you will get or if the send is actually right there for the taking. You can’t trust your feelings!Tim and Josh tackle the problem of doubt creep and how to find actual success during your attempts.SHOW NOTES:Testpiece PatreonRyuchi Almost SendingBon Voy...
Send us a Text Message.Palmer Larsen is one of the top coaches in the country. This podcast has soooooooooo many helpful tips and frameworks to get you to the next level. DO NOT MISS his description of how to foster an environment for long term success via deliberate practice @ ~1:28!He is the head coach of Momentum Climbing Team, in SLC, one of the top climbing teams in the country. He oversees 80 kids every week AND the coaches!Palmer is also an extremely accomplished athlete. He has been c...
Send us a Text Message. What is the best way to approach a climb? It’s a simple question that may be one of the most important things to ask yourself before you pull on each time, but it’s never talked about. Tim Kang, professional climber and coach, shares the fundamental strategy needed to get your best performance each time. Announcement!!$5 Patron’s now have access to all Classroom recordings via Spotify, or through the Patreon app! That’s 20+ hours of NEW conte...
Send us a Text Message.Allison Vest has THE STRONGEST FINGERS IN THE WORLD (according to the internet), and she is finally releasing her secret training plan to us! It’s only $9.99, and the best part is Testpiece listeners get 20% off for a limited time! Get it here NOW! 🥸 Allison shares about what it’s like to climb with the extremely strong fingers and why that’s important to climb hard but not everything. Then we go deep into hangboarding. Seriously Deep. Allison also tells...
Send us a Text Message.Tim Kang and Josh Horsley explore how often to have limit sessions. What limit sessions really mean. And what non-limit sessions look like.They also cover the latest news, give important PSAs, Pro-Tips, and of course there is a rant. There’s always at least one rant.SHOW NOTES:GoFundme for AdrieneFelipe HooBeastmaking BookSupport the Show.Support us on Patreon: HEREVisit our podcast page: HERESign-up with one of our coaches: HEREFollow us on Instagram: HERE
Send us a Text Message.That's right ladies and gentlemen -- Jimmy Webb!Jimmy is one of the best climbers our sport has ever scene, and one of the humblest and kindest climbers as well.Please enjoy this wide ranging but always fantastic chat with Jimmy Webb.Support the Show.Support us on Patreon: HEREVisit our podcast page: HERESign-up with one of our coaches: HEREFollow us on Instagram: HERE
Send us a Text Message.The topics are in the title! A big focus on what Tim is “re-learning” as he comes back from his serious knee injury.SHOW NOTES:Team Trials Instagram Post by RyanPaul Robinson on Hueco Rock RodeoNathaniel Flashing ScarfaceSupport the Show.Support us on Patreon: HEREVisit our podcast page: HERESign-up with one of our coaches: HEREFollow us on Instagram: HERE
Send us a Text Message.Martin Keller is one of the few people to boulder 8C+ / V16... But what's really incredible is he just did it right before he turned 46 years old!Martin is an incredible climber, coach, and teacher. In this episode he shares: How to gain limit strength, rather than just getting tired.The best way to project climbs (he's famous for his decade plus projecting ability).How he's said "No" to naysayers his whole life and proved them wrong.The way to avoid, and deal with...
Send us a Text Message. Tim’s back at it and with a big smile. Hear how he’s been returning to his peak strength after injury. Tim also talks about how he coaches clients through plateaus. Big shout outs to the crews that make life special for Tim and Josh and what they did to help them be their best. Bosi repeats ROTSW, and just about every other hard thing in the world. And Josh reports back on the project Tim coached him through in the last episode. SHOW NOTES:&nb...
Send us a Text Message.Matty Hong takes us to Mallorca where he snagged the second ascent of Big Fish. A 9a deep water solo that culminates in a dyno at ~20m / 60ft!Matty was out there filming for the latest Reel Rock climbing with the legend Chris Sharma. Since he is often the guy behind the camera we asked him to share some tips for any aspiring climbing film makers and he fully delievered!Last, but certainly not least, he takes us to Ceuse to tell us about the interesting things he l...
Send us a Text Message.Drugs, cruxes, moonboarding, injuries, making climbs your b*tch... This one's got it all! Tune in for tons of pro-tips that will help you climb better today, and set yourself up for the long term success that we all are striving for.SHOW NOTES:2017 V8 / 7B+ on Moonboard 2016 SetPodcast #33 with Andy TollefsonSupport the Show.Support us on Patreon: HEREVisit our podcast page: HERESign-up with one of our coaches: HEREFollow us on Instagram: HERE
Send us a Text Message.The man, the myth, the Mustache — Keenan Takahashi!Keenan shares his unique approach to climbing. He seeks out the best lines in the world and then uses that as fuel to transform his body and mind so that he is able to climb them.Keenan also has created one of the coolest new brands in climbing, ANTIGRAV, that embodies his psyche and ethos for climbing.SHOW NOTES:ANTIGRAVCreative Visualization [Book]A Little Life [Movie]Express Yourself [Song]Physics Hyperbole [Squamish...
Send us a Text Message. 2024 is off the a bang with incredibly hard bouldering FA’s happening non-stop. Is this because USAC caused one of the strongest crews in the world to stop training for the Olympics and start crushing rock again? Hear more from Tim about what a session is like when multiple V16 climbers get together to try the hardest boulders in the world. Support the Show.Support us on Patreon: HEREVisit our podcast page: HERESign-up with one of our coaches: HEREF...
Send us a Text Message.Sean Bailey came on Testpiece and shared his decades of experience from sending and competing at the absolute top of the sport. Sean truly is one of the best climbers in the world right now. Sean recently FA’d the low start to Evilution [“Devilution”] which was a long standing sought after project that clocks in around V16 and is now one of the hardest, proudest lines in the world!How he started climbing and training at a young age and what it was like cutting his ...
Send us a Text Message.Tim shares a common problem that holds people back that he sees in even some of the top athletes he coaches. They jokingly call it "Vomit Mouth".Learn about what this is and how you can make sure to avoid it in your sessions.SHOW NOTES:Noah Wheeler on SleepwalkerSupport the Show.Support us on Patreon: HEREVisit our podcast page: HERESign-up with one of our coaches: HEREFollow us on Instagram: HERE
Send us a Text Message.Carlo Traversi is back to tell us about his recent FA of The Dark Side V16 (suggested grade) in Yosemite. Josh thinks this FA will go down in the history books as THE testpiece of our generation in Yosemite bouldering. Tune in and see what you think.Carlo explains the incredible tactics he had to employ to get this FA done. It was absolutely mindblowing how detailed he got to make this send happen. A true example of Mastery.SHOW NOTES:The Dark Side Instagram PostVa...
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