The Testpiece Podcast

<p>A podcast about high level climbing. How to go from good to great.</p>

#101 Dave Burleson — How To Be A Pro Climber, What Pro’s Actually Earn, The Tension Between Passion And Professionalism, and Contract Negotiation 101

Send us a Text Message.Dave Burleson is one of the top agents for professional climbers. He represents athletes like Sean Bailey, Nathaniel Coleman, Nina Williams, Jesse Grupper… the list goes on, but all of them have been on the podcast so we put them here first! Before being an agent, Dave worked at the iconic brands Petzl and The North Face as an athlete coordinator / manager. So that means Dave has been on both sides of the table, representing brands who sponsor athletes and now repr...

06-03
02:31:11

#100 T&J — The Simple Path To Being Great, The Real Role Of Strength, Dealing With Tweaky Moves, Moonboard 2024, Amazing Media Drops, and Skin Farming

Send us a Text Message. Episode #100!!!! Thank you all for the support. What a journey it’s been. This episode was an absolute banger that encapsulates a lot of the Testpiece message. Tim and Josh break down the ‘Simple’ path that the best climbers follow to being great. And then they detail the appropriate role that strength plays in this path. They also go over the latest news and cover the amazing media that has been dropping as well as a quick review of the Moon...

05-27
02:03:49

#99 Nina Williams — Off Route While Free Soloing, The Ultimate Confidence, Being a Professional on Instagram, and The Medium Is The Message

Send us a Text Message.Nina Williams pushes the limits in every discipline of climbing there is… comps, bouldering, highball bouldering, big wall, sport climbing, and even free soloing.In this episode she takes us through a harrowing experience she had while free soloing the Casual Route of the Diamond, a multi pitch 5.10. Nina ended up off route during the climb and thus onsight free soloing, 800 feet off the deck.Nina also shares what has propelled her to explore and master the different di...

05-20
01:49:54

#98 T&J — Your Heroes Are Human, 2 Traits The BEST Climbers Have, Honnold Says The Quiet Thing Out Loud, and Tim Tells Josh His Biggest Mistake

Send us a Text Message.Tim Kang was just in SLC for the World Cup and NACS. He got to watch and session with some of the best climbers in the world. Hear from Tim what his major takeaways were that can help you too.SHOW NOTES:Honnold’s Comments About Competitions and $Petzl Roc TripJames-Caro Wedding PresentSupport the Show.Support us on Patreon: HEREVisit our podcast page: HERESign-up with one of our coaches: HEREFollow us on Instagram: HERE

05-13
01:56:05

#97 Davin Bagdonas — Alpine Fusion, Grizzly Bears, Developing 1000’s of Climbs World Wide, Chasing The Dragon, and The Call To Adventure

Send us a Text Message.Davin Bagdonas has developed 1000’s of climbs all over the world. Elite climbers, fellow adventurers, and previous podcast guests, like Jimmy Webb, Jamie Emerson, Roman Yalowitz, Eric Jerome call up Davin when they want to go on a wild adventure to try to find the best boulders in the world.Davin takes us on a trip around the world to places fraught with danger, and explains this up and comping lens on climbing termed “Alpine Fusion”. This is where you go deep into the ...

05-06
02:12:55

#96 T&J — Battling Mid-Send Doubts, Incredibly Hard Sends, New Shoe Tech, Update Your System By Shutting Up, Don’t Talk Sh!t, and Josh Talk’s Sh!t

Send us a Text Message.You’re midway through a redpoint burn and you’re tired. There’s a bunch of moves to go and you tell yourself that you’re so tired right now there’s no way you’ll ever send. But the truth is, you have no idea how far you will get or if the send is actually right there for the taking. You can’t trust your feelings!Tim and Josh tackle the problem of doubt creep and how to find actual success during your attempts.SHOW NOTES:Testpiece PatreonRyuchi Almost SendingBon Voy...

04-29
01:58:25

#95 Palmer Larsen — The Master Coach, Adaptability and Autonomy, Deliberate Practice, Style Then Process, What’s Wrong In Coaching Today, and Olympic 2024 Predictions

Send us a Text Message.Palmer Larsen is one of the top coaches in the country. This podcast has soooooooooo many helpful tips and frameworks to get you to the next level. DO NOT MISS his description of how to foster an environment for long term success via deliberate practice @ ~1:28!He is the head coach of Momentum Climbing Team, in SLC, one of the top climbing teams in the country. He oversees 80 kids every week AND the coaches!Palmer is also an extremely accomplished athlete. He has been c...

04-22
02:11:55

#94 T&J — How To Approach EVERY Climb, New Era Of Climbing Media, Double Clutching Outside, New Patreon Offering, Warm-Up Projects, Un-Campusing and Why Trying Hard Isn’t Enough

Send us a Text Message. What is the best way to approach a climb? It’s a simple question that may be one of the most important things to ask yourself before you pull on each time, but it’s never talked about. Tim Kang, professional climber and coach, shares the fundamental strategy needed to get your best performance each time. Announcement!!$5 Patron’s now have access to all Classroom recordings via Spotify, or through the Patreon app! That’s 20+ hours of NEW conte...

04-15
01:52:11

#93 Allison Vest — THE STRONGEST FINGERS IN THE WORLD, Hangboarding Deep Dive, Comps Vs Outdoors, LeBron James’ Tip to Send V14, Not Lying to Yourself, Creating FLOAT and Her Secret Training PDF (only $9.99)

Send us a Text Message.Allison Vest has THE STRONGEST FINGERS IN THE WORLD (according to the internet), and she is finally releasing her secret training plan to us! It’s only $9.99, and the best part is Testpiece listeners get 20% off for a limited time! Get it here NOW! 🥸 Allison shares about what it’s like to climb with the extremely strong fingers and why that’s important to climb hard but not everything. Then we go deep into hangboarding. Seriously Deep. Allison also tells...

04-08
02:08:52

#92 T&J — Climbing At Your Limit, Make It Right USAC, Rants Continue, Gym Field Trips, and The Simplest Effective Training Routine

Send us a Text Message.Tim Kang and Josh Horsley explore how often to have limit sessions. What limit sessions really mean. And what non-limit sessions look like.They also cover the latest news, give important PSAs, Pro-Tips, and of course there is a rant. There’s always at least one rant.SHOW NOTES:GoFundme for AdrieneFelipe HooBeastmaking BookSupport the Show.Support us on Patreon: HEREVisit our podcast page: HERESign-up with one of our coaches: HEREFollow us on Instagram: HERE

04-01
01:48:03

#91 Jimmy Webb — Adventure and Development, How Climbers Go From Good To Great, Southern Style, World’s Greatest Flasher, The New Generation, and The Hardest Moves In The World

Send us a Text Message.That's right ladies and gentlemen -- Jimmy Webb!Jimmy is one of the best climbers our sport has ever scene, and one of the humblest and kindest climbers as well.Please enjoy this wide ranging but always fantastic chat with Jimmy Webb.Support the Show.Support us on Patreon: HEREVisit our podcast page: HERESign-up with one of our coaches: HEREFollow us on Instagram: HERE

03-25
02:23:30

#90 T&J — “Strength Forgets”, The Process SA, Team Trials Trouble, Binding Your Feet, Moonboard Rant, and Get Injured To Get Better Technique?!

Send us a Text Message.The topics are in the title! A big focus on what Tim is “re-learning” as he comes back from his serious knee injury.SHOW NOTES:Team Trials Instagram Post by RyanPaul Robinson on Hueco Rock RodeoNathaniel Flashing ScarfaceSupport the Show.Support us on Patreon: HEREVisit our podcast page: HERESign-up with one of our coaches: HEREFollow us on Instagram: HERE

03-18
01:40:23

#89 Martin Keller — 8C+ at 45+, How To Gain Limit Strength, How To Project, Naysayers, Avoiding Injury, and The Big Difference Between Indoors and Outdoors

Send us a Text Message.Martin Keller is one of the few people to boulder 8C+ / V16... But what's really incredible is he just did it right before he turned 46 years old!Martin is an incredible climber, coach, and teacher. In this episode he shares: How to gain limit strength, rather than just getting tired.The best way to project climbs (he's famous for his decade plus projecting ability).How he's said "No" to naysayers his whole life and proved them wrong.The way to avoid, and deal with...

03-11
02:30:21

#88 T&J — Busting Plateau’s, How To Reclaim A Peak, Get Your Own Felipe [Hoo], ROTSW Still V17, and Sending The MoonBoard Proj

Send us a Text Message. Tim’s back at it and with a big smile. Hear how he’s been returning to his peak strength after injury. Tim also talks about how he coaches clients through plateaus. Big shout outs to the crews that make life special for Tim and Josh and what they did to help them be their best. Bosi repeats ROTSW, and just about every other hard thing in the world. And Josh reports back on the project Tim coached him through in the last episode. SHOW NOTES:&nb...

03-04
01:44:50

#87 Matty Hong — Big Falls & Big Fish [9a 50m DWS], Photography 101, What Makes Sharma Special and Lessons From Biographie [World’s First 9a+]

Send us a Text Message.Matty Hong takes us to Mallorca where he snagged the second ascent of Big Fish. A 9a deep water solo that culminates in a dyno at ~20m / 60ft!Matty was out there filming for the latest Reel Rock climbing with the legend Chris Sharma. Since he is often the guy behind the camera we asked him to share some tips for any aspiring climbing film makers and he fully delievered!Last, but certainly not least, he takes us to Ceuse to tell us about the interesting things he l...

02-26
01:52:31

#86 T&J — PED’s, Breaking Down A Crux, Climbing Like A 6 Year-Old Girl, Injury Prevention, and BTS On A Moonboard Session

Send us a Text Message.Drugs, cruxes, moonboarding, injuries, making climbs your b*tch... This one's got it all! Tune in for tons of pro-tips that will help you climb better today, and set yourself up for the long term success that we all are striving for.SHOW NOTES:2017 V8 / 7B+ on Moonboard 2016 SetPodcast #33 with Andy TollefsonSupport the Show.Support us on Patreon: HEREVisit our podcast page: HERESign-up with one of our coaches: HEREFollow us on Instagram: HERE

02-19
01:46:25

#85 Keenan Takahashi — Higher Harder Better, ANTIGRAV, The Best Lines In The World, Mentorship, Manifesting More, and The Mustache Turns 10

Send us a Text Message.The man, the myth, the Mustache — Keenan Takahashi!Keenan shares his unique approach to climbing. He seeks out the best lines in the world and then uses that as fuel to transform his body and mind so that he is able to climb them.Keenan also has created one of the coolest new brands in climbing, ANTIGRAV, that embodies his psyche and ethos for climbing.SHOW NOTES:ANTIGRAVCreative Visualization [Book]A Little Life [Movie]Express Yourself [Song]Physics Hyperbole [Squamish...

02-12
02:13:57

#84 T&J — Hard Hard, New New, Sessioning With The BEST, USAC Controversy, and Switching To Moonboard 2024

Send us a Text Message. 2024 is off the a bang with incredibly hard bouldering FA’s happening non-stop. Is this because USAC caused one of the strongest crews in the world to stop training for the Olympics and start crushing rock again? Hear more from Tim about what a session is like when multiple V16 climbers get together to try the hardest boulders in the world. Support the Show.Support us on Patreon: HEREVisit our podcast page: HERESign-up with one of our coaches: HEREF...

02-05
02:02:44

#83 Sean Bailey — Devilution FA [~V16], Japan’s Gym Scene, The Future of Hard Sport Climbing, Spearheading USA’s Return to WC’s, Projecting in Bouldering vs Sport, and BTS of Making It As a Pro

Send us a Text Message.Sean Bailey came on Testpiece and shared his decades of experience from sending and competing at the absolute top of the sport. Sean truly is one of the best climbers in the world right now. Sean recently FA’d the low start to Evilution [“Devilution”] which was a long standing sought after project that clocks in around V16 and is now one of the hardest, proudest lines in the world!How he started climbing and training at a young age and what it was like cutting his ...

01-29
01:51:12

#82 T&J — Negative Thoughts -> Words -> Actions, Type 2 Fun, Achieving Your Potential, Grades vs Belts, and ‘Make Climbing Dangerous Again’

Send us a Text Message.Tim shares a common problem that holds people back that he sees in even some of the top athletes he coaches. They jokingly call it "Vomit Mouth".Learn about what this is and how you can make sure to avoid it in your sessions.SHOW NOTES:Noah Wheeler on SleepwalkerSupport the Show.Support us on Patreon: HEREVisit our podcast page: HERESign-up with one of our coaches: HEREFollow us on Instagram: HERE

01-22
01:55:58

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