The Testpiece Podcast

<p>A podcast about high level climbing. How to go from Good to Great.<br /><br />Hosted by Joshua Horsley.</p>

Board Talk #6 — BoD [V17] Is A Board Climb, The Sisu Proj, Noah Wheeler Destroys The School Room, and Does Board Climbing Cause Injuries?

Boards have become a unique discipline and culture within climbing, so we created a recurring podcast focused on the latest things happening in board climbing and what it means for our sport from industry veterans and board lovers: Michael Rosato (Director of Marketing at Tension) and Joshua Horsley. Board Climbs Mentioned: “Paws To Riches” V6 on the 2024 MB, by Davy“All Jazzed Up” V10 @45 on the TB2 Spray, by Brian Squire“I Kneed You” V10 @45 on the TB2 Spray, by Michael Rosato“One Leg Vet” ...

12-01
01:22:20

Good Temps 'Emergency Pod' — V18?!

BLACK FRIDAY PATREON DISCOUNT! Get 25% off your first month or annual subscription until midnight (PT) on Dec 1st. Use code ‘BLACKFRIDAY’. ‘Emergency’ Episode! Elias Iagnemma sent his long standing project last week and proposed the grade of V18 / 9A+. A grade no one has ever proposed before. So we got the crew together outside our regularly scheduled program to discuss. Enjoy! This is a recurring podcast focused on the latest things happening in climbing and what it means for our sport from ...

11-26
46:50

#178 Ollie Torr — Olympians Train Like This, How Climbing Technique Actually Progresses, The Future Of Video Analysis, and What Lattice Is Doing With The Best Data Set In Climbing

Ollie Torr is the co-founder of Lattice. Yes, that Lattice. The biggest training company in the climbing space. Ollie has tested, coached, or worked with almost every top climber in the world, especially if they are in the UK. That means that Lattice also has the biggest and best data set around climbing metrics, and they’ve created an app to help apply what Lattice has learned over the last decade for everyone. Here is a link to get a Lifetime discount: https://plan.latticetraining.com...

11-24
01:51:04

Good Temps #7 — Arrival Of The Birds [V17] By Sean, Janja Climbs Everything, Current State Of The Gym Industry, and Ethical Limits Of Climbing Equipment

This is a recurring podcast focused on the latest things happening in climbing and what it means for our sport from industry veterans: Carlo Traversi, Will Anglin, Austin Hoyt, and Joshua Horsley. Look at the Chapters for today's topics. Patreon Questions (join Patreon for extended cut with answers): All things shoes! Stiff shoes or soft shoes? Should you have a special pair for sending and a different pair for training? And more…What does and does not factor into a grade? Approach? Morpholog...

11-17
01:31:28

#177 Tyler Willcutt — The ‘X’ Factor, Agent For The Best Of The Best, Where Pro’s Make The Most Money, and How The Climbing Industry Compares To Others

Tyler Willcutt is the agent for climbers like Alex Honnold, Chris Sharma, Natalia Grossman, Tommy Caldwell, Jimmy Chin, etc… You get the idea. He is part of RXR Sports, an agency that represents the best athletes in adventure sports. In this episode we get a behind the scenes look at what the day to day is like as one of the greats in our sport. How they make money, handle pressure, and capitalize on major sends. Tyler also explains how not all athletes can cross into the mainstream. Some hav...

11-10
01:29:47

Board Talk #5 — Benn Wheeler Guest Appearance, Kilter Deep Dive, V15’s On Boards Are Officially Here, and Condition Dependent Boards

Boards have become a unique discipline and culture within climbing, so we created a recurring podcast focused on the latest things happening in board climbing and what it means for our sport from industry veterans and board lovers: Michael Rosato (Director of Marketing at Tension) and Joshua Horsley. This week Michael took a vacay, but he was replaced by the inimitable board lord Benn Wheeler! Media Mentioned: Noah Wheeler FA’s a new V15 on the TB2Wheel Rock “Olympian vs V17 Climber”Wedge Vid...

11-03
01:36:39

#176 Sierra Blair — "Boards Or Death", Transitioning From WC’s To Outdoors, The Longterm Training Formula, and Why She Loves The Mini-MoonBoard

Sierra Blair was an accomplished competition climber for many years with tons of World Cups under her belt. Due to a back injury she had to stay low to the ground and this lead her to the MoonBoard. It’s been love ever since and she has transitioned from her competition career into the outdoors where she is focused on bouldering in Arizona. Patreon Questions (join Patreon for extended cut with answers): What’s her favorite MoonBoard climb and why?What was it like being famous when young and w...

10-27
01:09:57

Good Temps #6 — Cold Sticky Granite, World Championships, The Latest Hard Sends In Bouldering/Sport/Alpine(!), and A New Ethics Segment

This is a recurring podcast focused on the latest things happening in climbing and what it means for our sport from industry veterans: Carlo Traversi, Will Anglin, Austin Hoyt, and Joshua Horsley. Look at the Chapters for today's topics. Patreon Questions (join Patreon for extended cut with answers): How do you safely work/clean/scope a boulder on a rope?When do you work on your weaknesses vs leaning into your strengths? Join Patreon: HERE Follow us on Instagram: HERE Visit our podcast page...

10-20
01:57:30

#175 Mark Heal — The 4 Steps For Sending Any Grade, Tactics You MUST Know, How To Train For Outdoors and Designing The Best Gym In America

Mark and Josh have climbed all over the world together and this chat has been a long time coming! They’ve been discussing climbing for well over a decade and Mark has heavily influenced Josh’s views and understanding of how to climb at a high level. Mark Heal is an absolute legend in the Bay Area. He’s a V14 climber, with >600 double digit sends and amazing FA’s all over the Sierras. Mark is also a top private coach with over a decade of experience. And last, but certainly not least, he is...

10-13
01:34:52

Board Talk #4 — The Future Of Board Climbing Comps, The Ultimate Spray Wall, BTS With Honnold And Harrington and Board Climbing 102

Boards have become a unique discipline and culture within climbing, so we created a recurring podcast focused on the latest things happening in board climbing and what it means for our sport from industry veterans and board lovers: Michael Rosato (Director of Marketing at Tension) and Joshua Horsley. 2024 MoonBoard Climbs Mentioned: "Tempest In A Teapot" V5, by rtag"Moon Spawn" V9, by Dana RaderPatreon Questions (join Patreon for extended cut with answers): How do you stick better to wood hol...

10-06
01:21:56

#174 Paul Houghoughi — The Gold Medal Physio, Preparing The Elite For Comps, How Pro’s Heal, and Climbing When You’re 100

Paul Houghoughi is the official physio for the GB Climbing team and accompanied them to both Olympics. He’s supported some of the best in our sport, such as Olympic gold medalist, Toby Roberts. Paul is also an extremely accomplished climber. He’s FA’d double digit boulders on almost every continent in the world and climbed up V13 (so far…)! Patreon Questions (join Patreon for extended cut with answers): All things wrists!Does pain always mean that you are injured? How do you know when pain is...

09-29
01:35:30

Good Temps #5 — Youngest V16 Climber Ever, Another 8C Flash, $1M Comp Formats, Fame And Money

This is a recurring podcast focused on the latest things happening in climbing and what it means for our sport from industry veterans: Carlo Traversi, Will Anglin, Austin Hoyt, and Joshua Horsley. Look at the Chapters for today's topics. Patreon Questions (join Patreon for extended cut with answers): Tips for someone's first trip to Yosemite and BishopDoes a rest hurt the quality of a boulder or route? Join Patreon: HERE Follow us on Instagram: HERE Visit our podcast page: HERE

09-22
01:47:02

#173 Chris Sharma — King Lines, The Ultimate Form Of Climbing, and When Chris Goes Yachting With Jason Momoa

The legend himself, Chris Sharma. Join Patreon: HERE Follow us on Instagram: HERE Visit our podcast page: HERE

09-15
01:27:24

Board Talk #3 — Janja’s Board, How Boards Show A Climbers True Potential, Spray Walls Vs Standardized Boards, and The God Tier Challenge

Boards have become a unique discipline and culture within climbing, so we created a recurring podcast focused on the latest things happening in board climbing and what it means for our sport from industry veterans and board lovers: Michael Rosato (Director of Marketing at Tension) and Joshua Horsley. 'Classics' mentioned: "Effervescence" - 7A/V6 @ 45°"Clinical" - 7B/V8 @ 45°"Ignite" - 7B+/V8 @ 45°"Free Education" - 7C/V9 @ 45° Join Patreon: HERE Follow us on Instagram: HERE Visit our podcas...

09-08
01:24:11

#172 Jesse Firestone — How To Have Peak Climbing Experiences, Tolerating Uncertainty, and Being Your Own Coach

Jesse Firestone is a well known climbing coach. He's worked with people from every continent and of all levels (V0 - V16). Here's where you can find Jesse online: Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/coachjfire/Website: https://jfireclimbing.com/Jesse's own Podcast: https://open.spotify.com/show/6iRknM60I84k2pmeztWDt2?si=0fc3bde1ff244e74 Join Patreon: HERE Follow us on Instagram: HERE Visit our podcast page: HERE

09-01
01:43:13

Good Temps #4 — Another V17 By Bosi, Insane Squamish Sends, Rogora Tick’s Gorges Du Loup, The Era Of Difficulty and “Rules Of The Game”

This is a recurring podcast focused on the latest things happening in climbing and what it means for our sport from industry veterans: Carlo Traversi, Will Anglin, Austin Hoyt, and Joshua Horsley. Look at the Chapters for today's topics. Join Patreon: HERE Follow us on Instagram: HERE Visit our podcast page: HERE

08-25
01:29:17

#171 Alex Honnold — The Lack Of Danger In The Modern Era, Being Unencumbered By What-Ifs, and Choosing A Life Based On Psyche

Alex Honnold is an amazing climber and one of the best ambassadors our sport has ever had. He may be the most famous climber of all time with his ropeless ascents of the most beautiful and iconic climbs in the world. Enjoy this chat with one of greats. Join Patreon: HERE Follow us on Instagram: HERE Visit our podcast page: HERE

08-18
01:42:34

Board Talk #2 — The Best Board Session Ever, 2024 MoonBoard Deep Dive, and What Makes A Board Problem ‘Good’

Boards have become a unique discipline and culture within climbing, so we created a recurring podcast focused on the latest things happening in board climbing and what it means for our sport from industry veterans and board lovers: Michael Rosato (Director of Marketing at Tension) and Joshua Horsley THIS EPISODE IS SUPPORTED by ORGANIC CLIMBING! The best crash pads in the game, owned and operated by a single person who truly loves climbing. SHOW NOTES: Allison Vest and Kyra Condie on a 55...

08-11
02:02:21

#170 Ravioli Biceps — How Board Climbing Transfers To Outdoors, The Magic Of Completionism, Overcoming Stopper Moves and Zooming In On Movement

Ravioli Biceps! Just back from an amazing trip to Rocklands, Ravioli shares how board climbing transfers to outdoor climbing, the evolution of board climbing culture over the last decade, how he deals with stopper moves, and some of the misconceptions about board climbing being non-technical. THIS EPISODE IS SUPPORTED BY Mad Rock! Mad Rock’s mottos is “CLIMBING SHOULD BE FOR EVERYBODY! Innovative, highly technical and affordable climbing shoes and gear.” Join Patreon: HERE Follow us on Inst...

08-04
01:55:33

#169 ‘Good Temps' 3 — WC Season In Full Swing, World’s First 8C Flash?!, Pushing It To The Limit, and Rocklands FOMO

This is a recurring podcast focused on the latest things happening in climbing and what it means for our sport from industry veterans: Carlo Traversi, Will Anglin, Austin Hoyt, and Joshua Horsley. Today’s episode covers: The Current WC Season (and a Janja tangent)Yannick Flohe’s World’s First 8C Flash (or was it?)The Pro’s and Con’s of Pushing Things To The Absolute LimitFOMO of All The Good Temps and Good Times Being Had in Rocklands Join Patreon: HERE Follow us on Instagram: HERE Visit ...

07-28
01:21:06

Recommend Channels