After reviewing the week's surf news, I made an executive Surfsgiving decision: absolutely not. The headlines are all tragedy, and it's Thanksgiving. So instead, I'm taking us back to the charm of Frederick Kohner's Gidget, the book that sparked a surf cultural revolution.
This Surfsgiving, I'm thankful for the unexpected spark behind what's coming next for The Wipeout Weekly. In this episode, I share the story behind "Fatty," the name that somehow followed me from my branding days into my surf life—and is now inspiring what comes next for The Wipeout Weekly. I talk about how a random hat, a beloved nickname, and a few offhand "I love your hat" comments turned into the beginnings of the Wee Surf Shoppe, a curated corner of surf gear and fun that launches soon. A little backstory, a little gratitude, and a hint of what's ahead.
A short Surfsgiving episode honoring Matt Warshaw and revisiting his story about surfing's ancient Hawaiian beginnings.
No one is listening to podcasts this week—unless they're hiding from family chaos over Thanksgiving. So instead of taking time off, we're doing something different: an episode of pure gratitude. Today, we're talking about the surfers we're thankful for. The legends who shaped the sport, defined the culture, and—whether you know it or not—shaped your surf life too.
There aren't many surfer poets—but we found another one. This early piece by Zoe Bonik captures the magic of a first wave with wide eyes, salty spray, and a world‑conquering stoke.
This episode is all about Rincon—the so-called "Queen of the Coast" and Malibu's chilly, iconic sister. With three linked sections (Indicator, Rivermouth, and the legendary Cove), Rincon offers long, peeling rights that can stretch up to 500 yards on a good day. We get into its surfable magic, history (including the dream that sparked a big-wave board design), best season to go, and yes—the slightly gross part: sewage spills. Come for the dolphins, stay for the hypnotic rides… but maybe check the water quality first.
What happens if winter surfing just… isn't your thing? This episode tackles a reader's honest question: are you still a surfer if you sit out the colder months? We share own SoCal winter funk, explores why cold water surfing isn't for everyone (hint: it costs more, takes longer, and drying gloves is a nightmare), and reminds us that taking a break doesn't make you any less of a surfer. From wetsuit rituals to cozy post-surf pints, this one's for anyone feeling the seasonal shift.
It's a bumper edition of the surf news roundup—because not everything making waves this week is strictly surf-related, but it all matters. From free surf lessons in Waikiki thanks to a grassroots crew, to 40-foot Nazaré bombs captured on film, to Florida's massive coral baby boom (yes, that's a thing), we've got your weekly dose of stoke and surprise. Carissa Moore announces her return to the WSL tour, a shark bite story turns into a medical miracle, and U.S. Ski & Snowboard finally drops its bizarre bid to control Olympic surfing. It's chaotic, inspiring, and a little weird—just how we like it.
Let's talk about measuring waves—and before you roll your eyes, know this: people's pride, paychecks, and world records are all riding on these numbers. In this episode, we dive into the mess (and mystery) of how we measure waves in surfing—from Garrett McNamara's 100-foot claims to why Surfline said it'd be 1–2 feet and it was double that.
I didn't see this coming—but here we are. Surf helmets are making waves (yep, I said it), from Shark Tank investments to young chargers at Pipeline strapping in after near-death wipeouts. In this episode, we dive into what's on your head—or not—when you paddle out. From helmet history and injury prevention to kook stigma and the surprisingly complicated world of surf helmet sizing, this is your no-hype, no-filler guide to whether the helmet revolution is headed for your lineup.
This week's word of the week is less "word" and more "wild concept": tow surfing. You know—the kind of surfing that involves a jet ski, a rope, and a wave the size of a five-story building.
Couldn't find the perfect surf poem this week? No problem—we're going old school. Like really old school. This week's Sunday Surf Poem is "Dover Beach" by Matthew Arnold, a classic of the sea from the 1800s. No, Arnold wasn't a surfer. But he was a guy standing at a window, staring out across the English Channel, letting the sound of waves trigger a deep spiral into faith, disillusionment, longing, and love.
This week, we take you to the end of the road. Literally. Teahupoʻo—pronounced cho-poo—is one of the most dangerous waves in the world. Known as the "place of broken heads," this Tahitian reef break doesn't just barrel—it mutates. It folds over itself like a collapsing building made of water. And it breaks over live coral sitting just 20 inches beneath the surface. This episode covers the mythology, the science, and the stories that made Teahupoʻo legendary—from Laird Hamilton's Millennium Wave to the infamous Code Red swell that shut down the contest scaffolding but not the surfers.
One of our unofficial taglines is "normalize smiling in the lineup"—and that's exactly what this Hey Zuz, I'm Confused is all about. What happens when you paddle out with good vibes and kind words… and get met with cold stares and zero eye contact? This week's listener wants to know: Does being friendly in the surf actually make you a target?
This week's surf news roundup takes us to Australia, Hawaiʻi, Northern California, and Florida. In Western Australia, a 61-year-old surfer survives a shark attack by punching it in the face. In Hawaiʻi, four legendary ocean athletes are inducted into the Waterman Hall of Fame. NorCal sees the first proper Maverick's swell of the season—40-foot faces, snapped boards, and one very determined 19-year-old. And over in Florida, Alyssa Spencer becomes the first surfer to win the Super Girl Surf Pro three times.
Is it possible to paddle like a pro without training like one? Maybe—especially now that science has receipts. In this episode, we break down a brand-new study out of Australia that strapped motion sensors to elite surfers to find out exactly what separates their paddle stroke from the rest of us flailing mortals. Spoiler: it's not brute strength.
Surfer Mag says there are 8 beginner mistakes. We say… Gimme a break. In this episode, we break down why beginner surf advice is often so off—especially when it's written by people who haven't been beginners in decades. We're not here to nitpick whether your back foot is too far back or whether your pop-up is "fast enough." We're here to talk about the one mistake that actually matters: going into surfing with your eyes closed and believing everything you read online. That's where it all goes sideways.
You may not have seen Gidget—but without her, surfing as we know it wouldn't exist. In this episode, we dive into the unlikely true story behind the original surf girl icon: Kathy Kohner, a 15-year-old from Brentwood who surfed Malibu in the 1950s, told her dad all about it... and inspired a book, a movie, a TV show, a comic series, and a full-on cultural wave. You're living in the post-Gidget world, it matters!
This week's Sunday Poem takes us to the shorelines of New England, where time, patience, and the art of wave-watching blur into poetry. Time Surfers by John Reilly captures the quiet anticipation of surfers waiting for the perfect moment—and the poignant reflection of what it means to miss or seize it.
What if I told you cold-water surfing is better than drugs? And by cold, we mean below 60°F (16°C). Today, we dive into why winter waves might actually be the best waves—and why that freezing paddle-out could leave you buzzing for hours.