Itâs been a good week in the world of surfing, and weâre here for the good vibes only. In this episode, weâre spotlighting four stories thatâll restore your faith in surf humanity: North London gets its first surf lake! Enfield Council approves a 100-acre inland surf facility. Surf school changes lives in Queens. Meet the man behind free lessons, wetsuits, and community meals for NYC kids. High school surfing goes varsity in Hawaii. The stateâs first-ever official championships are coming to Maui in 2026. One lost tooth, one amazing surf community. A marine vet wipes out at Huntingtonâand walks away smiling thanks to a local hero dentist.
If youâve ever been run over, run over someone else, dinged a board, or had yours destroyed in a surf collisionâthis episode is for you. Weâre talking target fixation: that sneaky brain glitch where you stare at the very thing youâre trying to avoid⌠and then crash right into it. From dropping in on strangers to nose-diving into sandbars, itâs not always your techniqueâit might just be where you're looking.
Surf skates: Are they the miracle cross-training tool Reddit makes them out to be⌠or just overpriced beach path wiggle machines? In this episode, we go down the surf skate rabbit hole. A little history (hello Dogtown), a little tech (front trucks that pivot like whoa), and a lot of opinion. We talk what surf skates are great for (spoiler: not paddling), what they canât help you with, and why some surfers swear by themâwhile others roll their eyes. Plus, tips for what to look for, how to avoid the kooky wiggle, and whether itâs actually worth dropping $400 on a land board when you could just surf. Or could you?
Ah yesâBackdoor. Not that Backdoor, you filthy animal. And not just Pipelineâs famous right, either. This episode breaks down what it means to âbackdoorâ a wave, how itâs connected to the fabled North Shore break, and why itâs not for the faint of heart. We paddle into the history of the Backdoor ShootoutâDa Huiâs infamous (and independently wild) surf contest thatâs given us everything from no-jersey judging to slogans about rumbling surf gangs. You'll meet the Rothmansâyes, those Rothmansâfather-son surf enforcers turned prize-money titans. We talk Jason Momoa, Da Huiâs black trunks, and the moment when Pipeline became a two-way street: left for Pipe, right for Backdoor, and both barreling toward surf legend.
You paddle out feeling hopeful⌠and paddle back in feeling like youâve never surfed a day in your life. No progress. No plateau. Just pure regression. Sound familiar? In this episode, we unpack those frustrating sessions that leave you questioning everything. Weâre talking about the science behind skill regression, learning plateaus, and why your brain might temporarily ditch skills youâve already mastered when you're trying to learn something new. From the power law of practice to cognitive overload, we explore whatâs really going on when your surf progression feels more like a scribble than a straight line. Plus, we share tips for how to make your practice more deliberateâand what to do when all else fails (spoiler: đŚ)
Ever turned to the internet for a little surf etiquette advice⌠and left feeling like you got drop-kneed in the soul? Yeah. Same. In this episode, we dive into what really happens when you post a photo of a near-collision on Redditâthinking you did everything rightâand the crowd decides otherwise. Suddenly, it's not just your angle or turn up for debate. It's your skills. Your board. Your very presence in the lineup. We break down expectation bias, internet armchair critics, and how to actually learn from feedbackâwithout letting it crush your stoke. Because guess what? Only you know what happened on that wave. And sometimes, the best move is to take the good, ignore the noise, and go surf it out.Â
Surfing is hard. But whatâs even harder? Figuring out where to stash your keys, phone, and valuables when you paddle out. In this episode, we dive into the age-old surf conundrum: how to keep your stuff safe while youâre getting salty. From lockbox hacks and Faraday pouches to diaper disguises and hiding your bike key in the sand (donât recommend), weâve tried it allâsometimes successfully.
Not much surf news this weekâor at least not the kind we usually cover. But a few stories still had us yelling âwait, what?!â đââď¸ Dane Henry leads Australia to ISA gold with a near-perfect performance and a ridiculous heat total. đŞ Jake Scrace gets towed 1,587 feet into the sky by a paramotor and sets a new kite surfing world record. đ¸ Santa Cruz surfing brings in $194.7 million annuallyâbut rising seas might wipe out the stoke (and the spots).
In this episode of Surfer Girl Stories, we meet Natasha from the Netherlandsâa lifelong waterwoman whose path through surfing, yoga, and healing led her to create Tashaâs Surfcamp. Natasha shares how the ocean was both her joy and her sanctuaryâthrough childhood adventures in sailing and surfing, through the loss of her mother, and through the loneliness of feeling invisible. Surfing and yoga became her lifelines, helping her reconnect to herself, the present, and the world around her. Â
What happens when a former Obama speechwriter takes up surfing⌠and nearly drowns? In this episode, I review Itâs Only Drowning by David Litt, a brutally honest and unexpectedly funny memoir about learning to surf, battling depression, and getting help from the last person you'd expectâhis daredevil brother-in-law. I have never written a book review before, so this may be a tad unsual.
Can you really be in a ârelationshipâ with your surf spot? We think so. In this episode, we dive into what makes a wave feel like âthe oneââand when it might be time to break up. We talk outgrowing breaks, bad vibes and localism, hazards that kill the fun, and the tricky question of whether the problem is really the spot⌠or you. Because at the end of the day, surfing is supposed to be fun.
In this episode of Hey ZuzâIâm Confused, we tackle one of the most heart-tugging questions weâve received. A reader, 57 going on 65 health-wise, wonders if sheâs missed the surfing boatâespecially after seeing all those inspirational reels of women learning to surf later in life. And we tell her the truth and only truth.
What makes JawsâPeĘťahi, on the north shore of Mauiâsurfingâs most feared and celebrated big wave? In this episode, we trace its history from Gerry Lopezâs âatomic bombâ moment to the tow-in revolution with Laird Hamilton, Darrick Doerner, and Buzzy Kerbox. We look at the sailboarders who first charged it, the tow-in surfers who proved just how massive it could get, and the paddle-in era that redefined what was possible.
Meet Katherine: a 37-year-old mum from rural Somerset who didnât grow up near the ocean, doesnât consider herself sporty, and yetâhas somehow fallen completely in love with surfing. It all started with a camping trip to the Gower, a borrowed foamie, and a bold âwhy not me?â moment. In this episode, Katherine takes us through her first awkward pop-ups, standing (literally) in the sea, her quest for a bigger board, and that magical moment when you ride whitewater all the way to the beach and think, âWait⌠Iâm doing it?â If youâve ever felt like the most unlikely surfer in the lineupâor had a foam board rash in weird placesâthis oneâs for you.
Itâs a packed week in surf. The Super Girl Surf Festival returns to Oceanside Pier for its 19th year, bringing 170+ of the worldâs best female surfers, 10 sports, and 17 free concerts (yep, Lupe Fiasco, Plain White Tâs, and more). Across the Atlantic, the English Interclub Surfing Championships were canceled mid-event after a sewage overflow red-flagged Porthtowan beachâan unprecedented first. We also say goodbye to Ron DiMenna, founder of Ron Jon Surf Shop, who passed away at 88 after building one of surfingâs most iconic retail empires. And in Sydney, tragedy: a 57-year-old surfer was killed in a suspected great white shark attack at Long Reef, reigniting the debate over shark nets and surf safety.
Today, weâre tackling the eternal question: Where do you actually sit to catch a wave? Not in the DMV-style lineup youâre imaginingâbut in the ever-shifting, often awkward dance of surf positioning. We talk peaks, shoulders, A-frames, etiquette (yes, again), and how to tell if youâre sitting in a good spot⌠or just floating out to sea. Whether youâre constantly getting snaked, yelled at, or just catching absolutely nothing, this oneâs for you. Spoiler: there are no reserved seats, but there is such a thing as respecting the bubble.
David Littâformer speechwriter for President Obama and author of Thanks, Obamaânever thought heâd surf. Then one day, he did. And another. And another. In this episode, we chat about Davidâs funny, brutally honest new book Itâs Only Drowning, which chronicles his totally uncalled-for decision to learn to surf, culminating in a trip to the North Shore. Itâs not Barbarian Days. Itâs funnier. And more relatable. Read it.
Itâs time. Time to paddle past the foam and into the deep end. In this episode, weâre talking about the biggest shift in beginner surfing: catching your first unbroken wave. What changes when you leave the whitewash behind? Pretty much everything.
Welcome to our brand-new segment: Hey Zuz â I Am Confused, where we tackle your most urgent, chaotic, and occasionally contradictory surf dilemmas. This weekâs question: âIâm buying my first-ever surfboard. Some say foamie. Some say hardtop. WHAT DO I DO?â
This week, weâre headed to the legendary right-hand point breaks of South Africa to explore one of the most iconic (and sharky) waves on Earth: Jeffreys Bay. From the dolphin-filled lineup to the muscle-clenching Supertubes section, we unpack what makes J-Bay the second-best wave in the worldâright after Pipeline.