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Unpacked by Afar
Unpacked by Afar
Author: Afar
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Unpacked by Afar tackles one tricky topic in travel each week. Whether you want to hack your points and miles, figure out where to travel next, or need advice on an ethical dilemma, we're your expert travel guides. Because the travel world is complicated. We're here to help you unpack it.
167 Episodes
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Welcome to Travel to Listen, a new Unpacked series hosted by veteran music journalist Tim Chester. Over four episodes rolling out every other week, Tim takes us into the cities where music is more than entertainment—it’s the shortcut to a place’s soul. This week, he goes to the source in Macon: meet the people keeping the city’s legendary songbook alive, and find out why a trip here might be the most soulful detour you’ve never considered.
In this episode
How the Macon Music Revue transforms songs by Little Richard, the Allman Brothers, and R.E.M. into something new—without losing what made them legendary
Why Charles Davis believes there’s “something in the water” in Macon—and how the city’s Indigenous roots may be part of its musical soul
The story behind the new Otis Redding Center for the Arts: from a 1965 music camp at Otis’s ranch to a full museum and education hub that opened in March 2025
What visitors to Macon often don’t know about Otis Redding—the savvy businessman, devoted family man, and farmer who owned cows, chickens, and horses
Where to eat, drink, and hear live music in Macon: from Capricorn Sound Studios to H&H Soul Food, where the Allman Brothers ate when they were broke
Meet this week's guests
Charles Davis is the frontman of the Macon Music Revue, a band that reinterprets the city’s iconic catalog with a soul-forward sound all their own. A longtime Macon radio voice, Charles is one of the city’s most active stewards of its musical legacy.
Justin Andrews is the director of special projects and outreach at the Otis Redding Foundation, and the grandson of soul legend Otis Redding. He helped bring the Otis Redding Center for the Arts to life when it opened in March 2025.
Guest host Tim Chester is a freelance travel and culture writer who has spent the past 20 years exploring the world through the lens of music. His reporting has appeared in NME, Spin, and Afar, and his travels have taken him from Manhattan to Malawi and Beijing to Berlin in search of the festivals, scenes, and stories that reveal a city’s soul.
Chapters
00:00:00 Welcome to Macon
00:01:15 Inside the Macon Music Revue
00:04:15 Something in the Water
00:06:15 A Tour Through Southern Rock
00:09:45 H&H Soul Food and the Allman Brothers
00:10:30 Otis Redding’s Vision Comes Home
00:13:45 The Man Behind the Music
00:15:00 Where to Hear Otis in Macon
A Music Fan's Travel Guide to Macon
Macon is walkable, the downtown is compact, and most of the music landmarks sit within a few square miles. Here’s how to do it like a fan.
Start here: the essential stops
Capricorn Sound Studios & Museum—the birthplace of Southern rock.
The Allman Brothers Band Museum at the Big House—the Tudor-style house where Duane, Gregg, Berry Oakley, and their families lived from 1970 to 1973.
The Otis Redding Museum—View plane tickets, telegrams, the briefcase from the wreckage, and pictures pulled from Zelma Redding’s personal archive.
The Otis Redding Center for the Arts (ORCA)—The newest piece of the puzzle, opened March 2025: a youth music education hub, the O3 Recording Studio, and the outdoor Zelma Redding Amphitheater, where a bronze statue of Otis now welcomes visitors.
Hear live music
Grant’s Lounge—the historic dive that served as an audition spot for Capricorn Records.
The Douglas Theatre—built in 1921 as a venue for African American performers during segregation, and where a teenage Otis Redding won the teen talent competition so many times the organizers asked him to stop entering.
Hargray Capitol Theatre—a beautifully restored downtown venue that brings in touring acts across genres.
Eat and drink like a local
H&H Soul Food—the legendary downtown spot started by Mama Louise and Mama Inez, who fed the Allman Brothers when they were broke.
The Rookery—Get the burger, stay for the music, and listen for the Otis Redding song that always seems to be playing when you walk in.
Go a little deeper
Rock Candy Tours—weekly guided walking tours that connect the dots between the studios, homes, and venues.
The Macon Music Trail—a self-guided trail of 43+ music sites with a free companion mobile app, including the Little Richard House and Rose Hill Cemetery, where Duane Allman and Berry Oakley are buried.
The Macon Music Revue (Terminus Records, 2024)—listen to Charles’s reinterpretations of “Losing My Religion,” “Stand Back,” and more. themaconmusicrevue.com
Up next on Travel to Listen
Tim heads to Minneapolis to get bright and bouncy with the city’s funk scene—and to hear how the city is planning to mark the 10th anniversary of Prince’s untimely passing. New episode in two weeks.
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Welcome back to Feel-Good Fridays!
Every Friday through the end of June, Unpacked is popping into your feed with a brand-new series designed to carry you into the weekend a little lighter. In each episode, host Aislyn Greene and producer Nikki Galteland are joined by a different Afar staffer to share three travel stories that made them smile, tear up (in a good way), or rethink what’s possible. Funny, inspiring, heartwarming—the only rule is no downers.
This week, they’re joined by Afar’s editorial director, Billie Cohen, and the trio covers all the elements: water, sky, and land. Together, they share:
A Pacific Northwest conservation project that turns one of nature’s most epic journeys into something you can actually root for, fish by fish
The pilot who spent more than 50 years chasing a childhood dream—and just made history at one of the country’s biggest airlines
A weekend tradition in rural Minnesota where you can follow hand-painted signs from studio to studio, and the Estonian summer ritual Billie shared in a recent Travel Tale.
Chapters
00:00:00 Welcome to Feel-Good Friday
00:01:00 Rooting for Baby Salmon
00:05:00 United’s First Female Captain
00:08:30 Quirky Local Trail Season
00:10:30 Open Cafés in Estonia
(00:00) Welcome to Feel-Good Friday
(01:00) Rooting for Baby Salmon
(05:00) United’s First Female Captain
(08:30) Quirky Local Trail Season
(10:30) Open Cafés in Estonia
Be sure to subscribe to the show and sign up for our podcast newsletter, Behind the Mic, where we share upcoming news and behind-the-scenes details of each episode. And explore our second podcast, Travel Tales, which celebrates first-person narratives about the way travel changes us, and View From Afar, where we spotlight the people and ideas shaping the future of travel.
Unpacked by Afar is part of Airwave Media's podcast network. Please contact advertising@airwavemedia.com if you would like to advertise on our podcast.
Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices
In last week's episode, host Aislyn Greene shared the story of towing a 20-foot Airstream down the Oregon coast in an all-electric Rivian truck — the campsite mishaps, the strangers who became friends, the joy of slow travel. This week, she's back with the practical guide: how an EV road trip actually works when you're towing, and what to know before you try one yourself.
Aislyn sits down with Sarah Eslinger, who heads up Rivian's Adventure Network, to talk about how the company has been quietly building fast-charging infrastructure in the places EV drivers actually want to go — not just along interstates, but on the edge of Death Valley, outside Yellowstone, along the Blue Ridge Parkway, and yes, all along Oregon's Highway 101.
They get into why 70 percent of Adventure Network sites are trailer-friendly, how the built-in trip planner factors in elevation, heat, and trailer weight, and why Rivian tested its charging bays with an Airstream.
Then Aislyn shares the five things she wishes she'd known before hitching up — from how much range to expect when towing, to the adapter you need to charge overnight at a campsite, to the trailer mirrors that will change your life.
Whether you're EV-curious, RV-curious, or just love a good road trip, this one's a window into how the infrastructure for adventure travel is changing — and how much easier it's getting to take the scenic route.
Chapters
00:00:00 Bonus Episode Setup
00:01:08 Inside Rivian's Adventure Network
00:03:15 Why the Trip Planner Works
00:05:08 Towing-Friendly by Design
00:06:50 Five Things to Know Before You Tow
00:09:25 The Verdict and What's Next
Be sure to subscribe to the show and sign up for our podcast newsletter, Behind the Mic, where we share upcoming news and behind-the-scenes details of each episode. And explore our second podcast, Travel Tales, which celebrates first-person narratives about the way travel changes us, and View From Afar, where we spotlight the people and ideas shaping the future of travel.
Unpacked by Afar is part of Airwave Media's podcast network. Please contact advertising@airwavemedia.com if you would like to advertise on our podcast.
Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices
Welcome to Feel-Good Fridays.
Every Friday from now through the end of June, Unpacked is popping into your feed with a brand-new series designed to carry you into the weekend a little lighter. Each episode, host Aislyn Greene and producer Nikki Galteland are joined by a different Afar staffer to share three travel stories that made them smile, tear up (in a good way), or rethink what's possible. Funny, inspiring, heartwarming—the only rule is no downers.
For our debut episode, we're joined by Afar's Michelle Baran, who brings her own dose of feel-good to the mic. Together, the three of them share:
– A celebrated food writer's reintroduction to her own hometown, and what travel can teach us about grief, grace, and seeing familiar streets with new eyes
– A long-awaited transit milestone in a famously car-bound American city—and what it could mean for one of the world's biggest upcoming sporting events
– A Vienna café where the pastries come with a side of intergenerational wisdom (and the bakers might just remind you of your own grandmother)
Plus: a childhood alter ego involving wigs, doorbells, and a traveling comedy duo we did not see coming.
Tune in every Friday through June for a fresh trio of stories from Afar's favorite travel writers and editors. We'll see you next week.
Chapters
00:00:00 Welcome to Feel-Good Friday
00:01:30 A Food Writer Rediscovers Her City
00:04:30 LA Finally Builds the Train
00:09:00 The Grandmas of Vienna
00:12:30 A Childhood Story We Had to Share
Resources
– Yewande Komolafe's writing for The New York Times
– LA Metro's D Line extension (opened May 2026)
– Vollpension, the granny-run bakery and café in Vienna
Be sure to subscribe to the show and sign up for our podcast newsletter, Behind the Mic, where we share upcoming news and behind-the-scenes details of each episode.
And explore our second podcast, Travel Tales, which celebrates first-person narratives about the way travel changes us, and View From Afar, where we spotlight the people and ideas shaping the future of travel.
Unpacked by Afar is part of Airwave Media's podcast network. Please contact advertising@airwavemedia.com if you would like to advertise on our podcast.
Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices
What happens when the person who knows how to tow has to leave — and you're left with a 5,000-pound Airstream, an electric truck, and 800 miles of Oregon coast ahead of you?
On this episode of Unpacked, host Aislyn Greene shares the story of the eight-day road trip she and her wife Jeannie took down the Oregon coast in August — towing an Airstream Basecamp 20 XE with a Rivian Tri-Motor R1T, with exactly zero towing experience between them.
What was supposed to be a fully sustainable cycling-and-camping trip with friends became a crash course in trailer physics, EV charging, and the unexpected generosity of the RV community.
In this episode you'll learn
How Aislyn and her partner, Jeannie, went from zero towing experience to navigating a 5,000-pound Airstream down 500 miles of Oregon coast—and what actually made it possible
The RV community secret nobody tells first-timers: once you've parked, everyone sits back and watches you do it
Why the Rivian R1T's onboard charging calculator made range anxiety a non-issue, even towing a trailer across eight charging stops
What Fort Stevens, Nehalem Bay, Cape Lookout, and Sunset Bay State Park each taught them about slowing down and asking for help
The case for traveling in a way that forces you to rely on strangers—and why it felt especially powerful right now
Plan your own Oregon coast trip
Stay at the campgrounds we loved: Fort Stevens State Park, Nehalem Bay State Park, Cape Lookout State Park , and Bay Point Landing in Coos Bay. For your sunset swim: Sunset Bay State Park, south of Coos Bay.
Plan your Oregon trip with Afar's Oregon guide.
Read more about Afar's guide to road trips, including EV trips
Borrow or rent a Rivian R1T and explore the Rivian Adventure Network — many sites along Highway 101 are designed for trailer-friendly pull-throughs.
Tow an Airstream Basecamp 20 XE — Airstream's small, off-grid-friendly trailer built in partnership with REI.
Chapters
00:00:00 The Plan vs. The Reality
00:03:30 Picking Up the Airstream Alone
00:06:10 First Drive on the Highway
00:08:30 Our First Parking Angel
00:11:00 The Nehalem Bay Disaster
00:14:30 Cape Lookout, Finally
00:18:30 A Bolt Falls Out
00:20:30 Why the Rivian Was the Hero
00:23:30 Sunset Bay
00:25:30 Coming Home
Be sure to subscribe to the show and sign up for our podcast newsletter, Behind the Mic, where we share upcoming news and behind-the-scenes details of each episode. And explore our second podcast, Travel Tales, which celebrates first-person narratives about the way travel changes us, and View From Afar, where we spotlight the people and ideas shaping the future of travel.
Unpacked by Afar is part of Airwave Media's podcast network. Please contact advertising@airwavemedia.com if you would like to advertise on our podcast.
Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices
Welcome to Unpacked, Five Questions, a podcast that takes you behind the scenes of one great travel story. In this episode, executive editor Katherine LaGrave sits down with documentary photographer Nathalie Mohadjer, whose images of the desert oasis of Siwa appear in Afar's winter 2026 issue.
For four weeks in Siwa, an ancient town some 450 miles from Cairo, Nathalie traded the typical three-day shoot for a slower kind of immersion — sharing breakfasts in the old town, spending afternoons with a local woman named Fatima, and bathing in a hidden cold spring with her family's kids.
She talks with Katherine about photographing a community where Siwan women are rarely seen by outsiders, why patience and respect matter more than the camera itself, and how losing your sense of time in the desert can change the way you see a place. She also shares advice for travelers heading to Siwa — and the one moment she chose not to capture.
Meet this week's guest
Nathalie Mohadjer is a German-Iranian documentary photographer based in Paris whose work has appeared in the New York Times, Monocle, and Le Monde.
Episode highlights
How a stranger waving from a window in Siwa's ruins led to weeks of access to a local family's home, kitchen, and hidden swimming spots
Why Nathalie spent nearly four weeks in Siwa — and what that kind of time reveals about a place that most visitors see in three or four days
The ethics and art of photographing people in other cultures: when to put the camera away, and how to earn the moment rather than take it
What makes Siwa's community so distinct from the rest of Egypt — and the Berber and Tuareg roots that shape its culture
Nathalie's practical advice for travelers heading to Siwa: slow down, talk to strangers, and don't be afraid to follow an unexpected invitation
Links & resources
Follow Nathalie Mohadjer on Instagram
Explore her visual story about Siwa, Egypt on Afar
Explore her photographs of Oman in her first Afar feature
Chapters
00:00:00 Introduction
00:03:00 Arriving in Siwa
00:09:00 Meeting Fatima
00:17:00 Photographing with Patience
00:24:00 Timelessness and Culture
00:30:00 Advice for Travelers
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Jennifer Hope Choi plans every trip the same way: open a Google doc, start with food, and build outward from there. As a former Bon Appétit editor, 13-year restaurant industry veteran, and author of a travel memoir, she has strong opinions about Michelin guides (skip ‘em), low-rated restaurants (sometimes worth it), and why you should always follow your optician's food recs.
She also edited Afar’s debut Travel to Eat series, which includes three stories: Jeju black pork and a life-changing soup, Sherpa cuisine in the Rockies, and why Portland, Maine, might be America’s best bakery town.
Meet today's guest
Jennifer Hope Choi is a senior editor at Afar and the architect of its Travel to Eat series. A former Bon Appétit editor and 13-year restaurant industry veteran, she is also an award-winning writer and author of the travel memoir the Wanderer’s Curse. Her work spans food and culture, and the messy, joyful overlap between the two.
In this episode
How Jen’s latchkey childhood, early Food Network shows, and her Korean grandmother’s pancakes shaped a lifelong obsession with eating
Why the Google doc comes first: Jen’s method for building food-forward itineraries from Reddit threads, local papers, and stranger recommendations
The case against Michelin stars, lines around the block, and treating a trip like a personality — and what to do instead
Inside the three stories of Afar’s Travel to Eat series: a transcendent bowl of Jeju black pork soup, Sherpa cuisine taking root in the Colorado Rockies, and the baking scene quietly transforming Portland, Maine
Jen’s #1 travel food tip: ask the shop clerk, not the algorithm
Links & resources
Read the Travel to eat series: America's best bakery town, a life-changing pork soup, and the rise of Sherpa cuisine in the Colorado Rockies
Read Jen's memoir, The Wanderer’s Curse
Follow Jen on Instagram
Read MFK Fisher's The Art of Eating, Jen’s favorite food book
Chapters
00:00:00 Introduction
00:01:30 Growing Up Food-Obsessed
00:06:30 How to Eat Your Way Through a City
00:11:30 Lists, Stars, and Letting Go
00:21:30 The Travel to Eat Series
00:30:00 Tips for Eating Well on the Road
Be sure to subscribe to the show and sign up for our podcast newsletter, Behind the Mic, where we share upcoming news and behind-the-scenes details of each episode. And explore our second podcast, Travel Tales, which celebrates first-person narratives about the way travel changes us, and View From Afar, where we spotlight the people and ideas shaping the future of travel.
Unpacked by Afar is part of Airwave Media's podcast network. Please contact advertising@airwavemedia.com if you would like to advertise on our podcast.
Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices
It started as an abandoned ukulele on a wall. Afar’s Aislyn Greene hadn’t touched it in two years — but that idle instrument sent her down a rabbit hole into one of the most joyful origin stories in music. The ukulele arrived in Hawai'i on a Portuguese immigrant ship in 1878, got a royal endorsement from a king and queen, fell into obscurity, and then took over the world. Along the way, a family of master craftsmen has been hand-finishing every instrument for over a century, and one of the greatest string players alive still can’t believe people underestimate it.
Meet today's guests
Roy Sakuma is a musician, educator, and founder of Roy Sakuma Ukulele Studios, Hawaii’s most famous ukulele school with four locations. In 1971, he launched the Ukulele Festival Hawai'i, now the state’s top summer event, and has spent 50 years making the case that the ukulele is no toy.
Chris Kamaka is the third-generation owner of Kamaka Ukulele, the oldest continuous ukulele manufacturer in the world, founded in Honolulu in 1916. Each of the 1,000–1,500 ukuleles they produce annually is hand-played by Chris before it leaves the shop.
Jake Shimabukuro is a virtuoso musician widely regarded as the greatest ukulele player alive. He has sold out concert halls worldwide and recently collaborated with Mick Fleetwood on a Blues album.
In this episode
How Portuguese immigrants and Hawaiian royalty together created — and named — the ukulele
Why Kamaka Hawai'i still air-dries koa wood for up to six years before touching it
How Roy Sakuma’s free Ukulele Festival in 1971 sparked a global revival from his backyard
Jake Shimabukuro on recording a tribute to Christine McVie with Mick Fleetwood — and why low expectations are a gift
What it’s actually like to take a ukulele lesson from Roy Sakuma (Aislyn finds out live on mic)
Resources
Listen to Afar's ukulele playlist
Sign up for lessons at Roy Sakuma Ukulele Studios
Explore the instruments at Kamaka Ukulele
Listen to the music of Jake Shimabukuro
Visit the Ukulele Festival Hawai'i
Chapters
00:00:00 The Ukulele's Origins
00:02:00 Hawaii's Royal Endorsement
00:03:30 Inside the Kamaka Workshop
00:06:00 Roy Sakuma and the Festival
00:09:30 Jake Shimabukuro's Journey
00:13:00 A Lesson With Roy
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What if the secret to a great trip was leaving your phone in airplane mode — forever? Journalist Lisa Abend has been doing exactly that, arriving in cities she's never researched, GPS turned off, without a hotel reservation or itinerary of any kind. The result isn't chaos; it's the kind of travel that actually surprises you. In this episode, Lisa makes a compelling case for leaving the phone out of the travel process.
Meet this week's guest
Lisa Abend is a Copenhagen-based journalist and former Time magazine correspondent who covers food, culture, and travel across Europe. She is the creator of The Unplugged Traveler, a Substack newsletter in which she visits a new European city each month without internet access, a booked hotel, or a plan, and writes about what she finds.
In this episode
How social media and over-researched itineraries have stripped travel of serendipity, and what Lisa is doing about it
The step-by-step logistics of arriving in a foreign city with no hotel, no map, and no plan — and why it's less stressful than it sounds
A birthday coincidence on a Cotswolds hiking trail that felt like the universe intervening
Why "second cities" — not capitals — are the ideal places to try unplugged travel for the first time
How nearly two dozen phone-free trips have changed the way Lisa navigates daily life
Chapters
00:00:00 Introduction
00:02:00 Backpacking Before the Internet
00:04:30 What the Internet Took From Travel
00:09:30 The Unplugged Traveler Newsletter
00:13:00 How to Choose a Destination
00:15:30 Arriving With No Hotel Booked
00:20:00 A Cotswolds Birthday Surprise
00:27:00 Finding Food Without the Lists
00:32:00 Travel as Meditation
00:35:30 Tips for Going Unplugged
Resources
Subscribe to Lisa's The Unplugged Traveler newsletter on Substack
Read Lisa's travel stories for Afar
Use Skyscanner — flight search tool Lisa uses to find cheap fares
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You've got more booking tools than ever — so why would you hire a travel advisor? In this episode, Afar editorial director Billie Cohen sits down with travel journalist and matchmaker Wendy Perrin, founder of wendyperrin.com, to answer the questions travelers actually have: What can an advisor do that you can't do yourself? When does it make sense — and when doesn't it? How do you find a good one, interview them, and understand what you're paying for?
From crowd-skipping at Venice to landing the perfect Egyptologist, Wendy makes the case for what truly expert trip planning looks like.
In this episode
Why connections (not booking tools or AI) are the real currency of great travel
The difference between advisors who specialize in you vs. those who specialize in a place
How to interview a travel advisor (and what their answers reveal)
What travel actually costs — and why it often isn't itemized
Why multi-gen trips and post-pandemic travel are driving a new wave of advisor use
Chapters
00:00:00 Why Travel Advisors Still Matter
00:03:00 Advisors vs. Agents vs. Tour Operators
00:06:00 What a Great Advisor Can Do
00:13:00 Choosing and Interviewing an Advisor
00:24:00 Fees, Costs, and Transparency
00:28:00 Cruise Specialists and Misconceptions
00:33:00 Who's Using Advisors Now
Links & resources
Wendyperrin.com and Wendy's Wow List of top trip designers
Listen to our Unpacked episode about cruise travel advisors
Explore the Afar Travel Advisory Council
Follow Afar at @afarmedia on Instagram and TikTok
More travel planning resources at afar.com
Be sure to subscribe to the show and sign up for our podcast newsletter, Behind the Mic, where we share upcoming news and behind-the-scenes details of each episode. And explore our second podcast, Travel Tales, which celebrates first-person narratives about the way travel changes us, and View From Afar, where we spotlight the people and ideas shaping the future of travel.
Unpacked by Afar is part of Airwave Media's podcast network. Please contact advertising@airwavemedia.com if you would like to advertise on our podcast.
Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices
This is a very special episode of Unpacked by Afar. This week, we hosted Unpacked Live — a live version of the podcast — in partnership with Visit California in Dallas, Texas. The event celebrated California's extraordinary creative landscape, and today's guest has been shaping the way Californians live, work, and gather for three decades.
Barbara Bestor is the founder of Bestor Architecture, a Los Angeles studio she's led since 1995 — at a time when very few women were doing so. Her work spans coffee shops and corporate headquarters, wineries and community music centers, private homes and historic restorations. She's on the AD 100 list of top architects and designers and has been called one of the most influential architects working in LA today.
In this episode, she shares her process, her influences, and the places in California that never stop inspiring her — from a former cult compound in Joshua Tree to a secret rooftop garden at Walt Disney Concert Hall.
On this episode, you'll learn:
• What "informal formalism" means — and why it's the best description of California's design DNA
• How the LA fires, post-COVID remote work, and multi-generational households are reshaping what people want from their homes
• Why adaptive reuse is finally having its moment in California
• How to actually crack the code on Ojai and Big Sur (hint: find the vegan restaurant and ask your server)
Travel recommendations from Barbara:
Los Angeles
Take the stairs at LA Phil to the rooftop garden
Walk the Bradbury Building lobby (free; you'll recognize it from Blade Runner), then cross to Grand Central Market and ride Angel's Flight back up to MOCA.
For neighborhoods: Melrose Hill is the current place to be; Magnolia and Victory Blvd in the Valley are time-capsule California.
Northern California
Stay in the original Charles Moore–designed Condominium One at Sea Ranch
In the Bay Area, stay at the Julia Morgan–designed Berkeley City Club
Ojai & Big Sur
In Ojai, go to a vegan restaurant and ask your server where to go — that's how you find the hidden hot springs.
Hotel El Roblar (designed by Ramin Shamshiri) is the new splurge hotel in Ojai.
In Big Sur, Nepenthe is the move: a Wright-influenced 1950s restaurant with a giant patio and sweeping views.
Joshua Tree
Drive in from the top and exit at the low desert — two completely different biomes.
Stay at the Institute of Mentalphysics, where the rooms were designed by Lloyd Wright, the son of Frank Lloyd Wright
Catch a show at Pappy and Harriet's in Pioneertown, then detour to Palm Springs and take the Sunnylands tour for "peak high-sixties modernist golf living."
Chapters
00:00:00 Introduction
00:02:00 From Cambridge to California
00:04:00 What Informal Formalism Means
00:06:00 Designing for How We Live Now
00:09:00 California's Architectural Legacy
00:16:00 LA Neighborhoods Worth Exploring
00:23:00 An Architecture Tour of California
00:34:00 Joshua Tree and the Desert
00:39:00 Where Barbara Goes to Recharge
Resources
Bestor Architecture
Explore the Afar guide to California
Watch the live recording of our Dallas event on YouTube.
Listen to our other Unpacked Live episodes featuring Roderick Wyllie and Obi Kaufmann.
Be sure to subscribe to the show and sign up for our podcast newsletter, Behind the Mic, where we share upcoming news and behind-the-scenes details of each episode. And explore our second podcast, Travel Tales, which celebrates first-person narratives about the way travel changes us, and View From Afar, where we spotlight the people and ideas shaping the future of travel.
Unpacked by Afar is part of Airwave Media's podcast network. Please contact advertising@airwavemedia.com if you would like to advertise on our podcast.
Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices
This is a very special episode of Unpacked by Afar. This week, we hosted Unpacked Live — a live version of the podcast — in partnership with Visit California in Dallas, Texas. The event celebrated California's extraordinary creative landscape, and today's guest is one of its most original voices.
Obi Kaufmann is a naturalist, writer, and illustrator whose California Field Atlas series has redefined what a nature book can be. His books — filled with hand-painted watercolor maps, poetry, and decades of ecological research — don't tell you where to go or what you're looking at. They ask why the landscape works the way it does, and what it means to truly belong to a place.
In this episode, Obi talks about growing up exploring Mount Diablo in Northern California, what makes a field atlas, and why he believes the future of California conservation depends on better poetry.
On this episode, you'll learn:
What a "field atlas" is — and why Obi had to invent the genre himself
How Indigenous stewardship and traditional ecological knowledge are reshaping conservation in California
Why Obi, one of California's great wilderness writers, is a proud city dweller in Oakland
What to expect from his next three books
Where to go right now to experience California's wildflower season at its peak
Travel Recommendations from Obi:
Anza-Borrego Desert State Park — Keep your eye on the California Native Plant Society or CalFlora for super bloom alerts; the window can be as short as a week
Death Valley National Park — Another prime super bloom destination; timing is everything
Big Sur — Highway 1 is open again; Obi recommends climbing a mountain and watching for California condors, which have rebounded from just 17 individuals in 1987 to over 500 today
Pinnacles National Park — The smallest and least visited national park in California, with condor sightings along the High Peaks Trail; Obi calls it "a beautiful gem of wilderness"
Mount Diablo — Obi's home mountain, 25 miles east of San Francisco; a lifelong study in ecological wonder
Chapters
00:00:00 Introduction
00:02:00 Growing Up on Mount Diablo
00:05:00 Inventing the Field Atlas
00:10:00 Conservation and the Word "Wilderness"
00:30:00 Living as an Urban Naturalist
00:37:00 What's Next: Books 7 Through 10
00:41:00 Where to Experience California Now
Resources
Obi Kaufmann's website and books
Explore the Afar guide to California
Watch the live recording of our Dallas event on YouTube
Listen to our other Unpacked Live episodes featuring architect Barbara Bestor and landscape designer Roderick Wyllie
Be sure to subscribe to the show and sign up for our podcast newsletter, Behind the Mic, where we share upcoming news and behind-the-scenes details of each episode. And explore our second podcast, Travel Tales, which celebrates first-person narratives about the way travel changes us, and View From Afar, where we spotlight the people and ideas shaping the future of travel.
Unpacked by Afar is part of Airwave Media's podcast network. Please contact advertising@airwavemedia.com if you would like to advertise on our podcast.
Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices
This is a very special episode of Unpacked by Afar. This week, we hosted Unpacked Live — a live version of the podcast — in partnership with Visit California in Dallas, Texas. The event celebrated California's extraordinary creative landscape, and today's guest has literally shaped the ground beneath many Californian's feet.
Roderick Wyllie is an award-winning landscape architect and founding partner of Surfacedesign Inc. A rare San Francisco native, he's helped design some of the Bay Area's most beloved public spaces, including the Lands End Visitor Center above Sutro Baths, a plaza at the Golden Gate Bridge, and Mission Bayfront Park. He also teaches at the Harvard Graduate School of Design.
In this episode, Roderick talks about growing up in 1970s San Francisco, what it means to design with rather than against a place, and why he thinks California's greatest creative export might be optimism.
On this episode, you'll learn:
What it was like to grow up in San Francisco in the 1970s and 80s — and how that "wild frontier" shaped Roderick's creative practice
Why Surfacedesign approaches every project like a crime scene investigation, searching for the story embedded in the land
How Roderick thinks about water — both as a design tool and as a precious resource in a drought-prone state
What he's learning from a current winery rethink at the iconic Robert Mondavi Winery in Napa
Where he sends travelers who want to experience California through the lens of landscape and design
Travel Recommendations from Roderick:
Wineries & Gardens
Faust, Napa Valley — A Victorian estate with planting designed to move from light to dark, inspired by the mythology of Faust; beautiful valley views
Buena Vista Winery, Sonoma — One of California's most historically significant wine sites, beautifully sited with two landmark historic buildings
Scribe, Sonoma — A more informal, less precious winery experience; Roderick especially admires the landscape work by Terramoto
Ruth Bancroft Garden, Walnut Creek — A masterwork dry garden celebrating the succulent landscape; Roderick calls it "spectacular"
Lotusland, Montecito — A fantasy of a California landscape with a larger-than-life history; the opera singer founder married nine times
The Huntington, San Marino/Pasadena — Impeccably maintained, a spectacular garden destination
Parks & Natural Spaces
Golden Gate Park, San Francisco — "It always feels a little bigger than I think it's going to be"
Point Reyes / Inverness — Roderick's favorite stretch of coast, particularly for seeing tule elk in the fog
Blunk Space gallery, Point Reyes Station — A small gallery connected to the legacy of California sculptor JB Blunk
Restaurants & Markets
Valley Bar + Bottle, Sonoma — Informal, locally sourced, creative; Roderick's top pick
Zuni Café, San Francisco — A California cuisine institution on Market Street; intimate despite its size
Ferry Building Farmers Market, San Francisco — "Incredible to see these purveyors that are focused on peppers only or something like that"
Modern Appealing Clothing (MAC), Hayes Valley — A quietly iconic SF clothing store recently named one of the 50 best in the US by the New York Times; Roderick designed a small interior garden inside the space
Art & Culture
Minnesota Street Project, Dogpatch — A collection of galleries with constantly rotating programming
Bay Area Discovery Museum, Sausalito — Roderick and his team designed eucalyptus-inspired play structures; worth a visit even without kids
Chapters
00:00:00 Introduction
00:02:00 Growing Up in San Francisco
00:05:00 How Surfacedesign Works
00:08:00 Iconic Bay Area Projects
00:14:00 Water as Design and Resource
00:20:00 Designing Winery Landscapes
00:27:00 The California Creative Mindset
00:35:00 Where to Go in California
Resources
Surfacedesign Inc. — Roderick's firm
Explore the Afar guide to California
Watch the live recording of our Dallas event on YouTube
Listen to our other Unpacked Live episodes featuring naturalist Obi Kaufmann and architect Barbara Bestor
Be sure to subscribe to the show and sign up for our podcast newsletter, Behind the Mic, where we share upcoming news and behind-the-scenes details of each episode. And explore our second podcast, Travel Tales, which celebrates first-person narratives about the way travel changes us, and View From Afar, where we spotlight the people and ideas shaping the future of travel.
Unpacked by Afar is part of Airwave Media's podcast network. Please contact advertising@airwavemedia.com if you would like to advertise on our podcast.
Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices
Show Notes
The World Cup is more than a soccer tournament — it's a mirror for geopolitics, national identity, and the power of global fandom. In this episode of Unpacked, host Aislyn Greene sits down with British journalist Jonathan Wilson, author of The Power and the Glory: The History of the World Cup, to explore the drama, corruption, and beauty that have defined the tournament across a century.
In this episode, you'll learn:
How hosting the World Cup has evolved from a nation-building tool to its current complex state — and who benefits now.
What the expansion from 32 to 48 teams really means for the quality and spectacle of the game.
Which teams Jonathan is watching in 2026, and the dark-horse picks you might not have on your radar.
Chapters
00:00:00 Welcome to the World Cup Edition
00:01:30 Jonathan's Soccer Origin Story
00:07:30 Soccer, Politics, and Power
00:11:00 Who Actually Benefits From Hosting
00:21:30 The 2026 Expansion to 48 Teams
00:31:30 Teams to Watch in 2026
00:35:30 Stadiums With Stories
Meet this week's guest:
Jonathan Wilson, British sports journalist and author of The Power and the Glory: The History of the World Cup
Resources:
Explore Jonathan Wilson's books and writing on his website.
Read The Power and the Glory: The History of the World Cup for the full sweep of FIFA history and drama.
Be sure to subscribe to the show and sign up for our podcast newsletter, Behind the Mic, where we share upcoming news and behind-the-scenes details of each episode. And explore our second podcast, Travel Tales, which celebrates first-person narratives about the way travel changes us, and View From Afar, where we spotlight the people and ideas shaping the future of travel.
Unpacked by Afar is part of Airwave Media's podcast network. Please contact advertising@airwavemedia.com if you would like to advertise on our podcast.
Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices
She’s 104 years old, newly renovated, and she’s ready for her close-up.
On this episode of Unpacked: America 250, host Aislyn Greene talks about the newly renovated Castro Theatre in San Francisco, a $41 million transformation of one of America’s most beloved LGBTQ+ landmarks.
Aislyn sits down with Mary Conde, SVP at Another Planet Entertainment, the independent concert promoter behind the renovation, to explore what it took to bring this icon back to life, and why this was always about more than a building.
In this episode, you'll learn
The history behind the Castro Theatre, from a Lebanese immigrant’s grocery store to a 1,400-seat icon.
How the Castro became the heartbeat of San Francisco’s LGBTQ+ community.
What a $41 million renovation actually looks like, from a peach-glazed ceiling to a color-changing chandelier.
The story of the organs (yes, plural) that have defined the Castro’s sound for decades.
Why Another Planet Entertainment sees this as a gift to San Francisco, not just a business investment.
Chapters
00:00:00 The Castro's Comeback
00:02:00 From Grocery Store to Icon
00:05:30 A Safe Harbor for a Community
00:09:00 Inside the Renovation
00:13:00 The Organ's New Life
00:15:30 What's Coming Next
Meet this week’s guest
Mary Conde, Senior Vice President at Another Planet Entertainment and a lifelong San Franciscan who has shaped the city’s music scene for decades. Another Planet is the independent concert promoter behind Outside Lands and the recent mayoral inauguration party, and the company that took on the Castro’s renovation.
Resources
Read the transcript of this episode.
Explore the history of the Castro Theater.
Buy tickets for upcoming Castro events.
Read about the Frameline LGBTQ+ Film Festival.
Be sure to subscribe to the show and sign up for our podcast newsletter, Behind the Mic, where we share upcoming news and behind-the-scenes details of each episode. And explore our second podcast, Travel Tales, which celebrates first-person narratives about the way travel changes us, and View From Afar, where we spotlight the people and ideas shaping the future of travel. Unpacked by Afar is part of Airwave Media's podcast network. Please contact advertising@airwavemedia.com if you would like to advertise on our podcast.
Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices
Before you board an international flight, before you cross a border, you need a passport. But how much do you really know about the little book that controls where you can and cannot go in this world?
On this episode of Unpacked, host Aislyn Greene sits down with Patrick Bixby, an English professor at Arizona State University and author of the book License to Travel: A Cultural History of the Passport, which explores how a bureaucratic document became one of the most emotionally loaded objects in human history.
In the episode, they discuss the passport as a paradox: a document that simultaneously promises freedom and enforces control, that carries the hopes of liberation and the machinery of surveillance. You'll come away seeing that little booklet in your drawer in a completely different light.
In this episode, you'll learn
Why the passport as we know it was born out of World War I — and why those wartime controls never went away.
How the word "passport" dates to 15th-century France, and why Shakespeare wrote about it.
What Frederick Douglass's passport journey reveals about citizenship, race, and the fight for identity.Why the US passport ranks around 30th in global passport power — and what that means for American travelers.
What's coming next: digital borders, blockchain credentials, and the end of the stamp.
Key chapters
00:00:00 The Paradox of the Passport
00:04:00 A History Older Than Nations
00:09:00 The WWI Origins of Modern Travel
00:11:00 Gender, Race, and the Document
00:16:00 What Makes a Passport Powerful
00:20:00 Stamps, Surveillance, and the Digital Border
00:26:00 Do You Believe in the Passport?
Meet this week's guest
Patrick Bixby, English professor, cultural historian, and author of License to Travel: A Cultural History of the Passport
Resources
Read the afar.com story about the world's most powerful passports.
Be sure to subscribe to the show and sign up for our podcast newsletter, Behind the Mic, where we share upcoming news and behind-the-scenes details of each episode. And explore our second podcast, Travel Tales, which celebrates first-person narratives about the way travel changes us, and View From Afar, where we spotlight the people and ideas shaping the future of travel. Unpacked by Afar is part of Airwave Media's podcast network. Please contact advertising@airwavemedia.com if you would like to advertise on our podcast.
Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices
Jet lag doesn't have to ruin your trip. On this episode of Unpacked, host Aislyn Greene shares her game-changing experience using a jet lag protocol originally developed for Navy SEALs—and digs into the fascinating science of why it works. She speaks with Dr. Jamie Zeitzer, one of Stanford's leading circadian rhythm researchers, and Andrew Herr, the founder of Flykitt, who transformed military sleep science into a practical travel solution.
In this episode, you'll learn
What's really happening in your body when you cross time zones
Why light exposure is exponentially more powerful than you think
How psychology and expectation affect your jet lag experience
The surprising role of inflammation in post-flight fatigue
Episode chapters
00:00:00 The Unofficial Travel Tax
00:01:45 Inside Your Circadian Clock
00:05:30 Light, Food, and Melatonin
00:09:00 How Flykitt Was Born
00:11:30 The Protocol, Step by Step
Meet this week's guests
Dr. Jamie Zeitzer, Co-Director of the Stanford Center for Sleep and Circadian Rhythms
Andrew Herr, Founder of Flykitt
Resources
Read Aislyn's full Fly Kit review and experience
Try Flykitt yourself: Afar listeners get 10% off with promo code AFAR10
Stay Connected
Sign up for our podcast newsletter, Behind the Mic, where we share upcoming news and behind-the-scenes details of each episode.
Explore our other podcasts, View From Afar, about the people and companies shaping the future of travel, and Travel Tales, which celebrates first-person narratives about the way travel changes us.
Unpacked by Afar is part of Airwave Media's podcast network. Please contact advertising@airwavemedia.com if you would like to advertise on our podcast.
Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices
Amsterdam is one of Europe’s most overtouristed cities—but it’s also so much more than the crowds in the city center suggest. On this episode of Unpacked—part of Afar’s ongoing Off the Tourist Trail series—host Aislyn Greene is joined by journalist Blane Bachelor, who moved to Amsterdam during the pandemic and has spent years navigating life as a resident. She shares how to experience the real Amsterdam—the neighborhoods, restaurants, and rhythms that exist just beyond the tourist-packed city center.
In this episode, you’ll learn
• Why Amsterdam’s overtourism problem is really concentrated in just a few city-center neighborhoods—and how to avoid them
• The best neighborhoods to stay in, including the artsy Noord and the very-Dutch Oost
• When to visit for fewer crowds: the Amsterdam Light Festival in November and King’s Day in April
• How to experience the Red Light District (De Wallen) thoughtfully and with historical context
• The unwritten rules of cycling in Amsterdam—and why this is not the place to shake off the cobwebs
• Where locals actually eat and drink, including a 17th-century gilded unicorn and a cash-only Dutch bar
Episode chapters
00:00 Introduction
04:30 Amsterdam's overtourism problem
12:00 Best neighborhoods to stay in: Oost and Noord
15:00 Best times to visit
21:00 Where to stay: hotels vs. Airbnb
24:30 First-timer tips for the Anne Frank House and Rijksmuseum
29:00 Navigating the Red Light District (De Wallen)
40:30 Dutch culture: directness, English fluency, and learning a few words
43:00 Cycling in Amsterdam: rules, etiquette, and survival tips
Resources
• Read Blaine’s Amsterdam Off the Beaten Path story on afar.com
• Follow Blaine’s Dutch adventures on Instagram
• Check out our Iceland and England Off the Tourist Trail episodes
Where to Stay
• Rosewood Amsterdam — The last hotel to be built in Amsterdam due to overtourism restrictions
• Andaz Amsterdam Prinsengracht — Playful Dutch-designed interiors; canal-view rooms feel like you’re on the water
• The Hoxton, Amsterdam — Two locations; the Eastern Docklands outpost is a local favorite
• Hotel Arena — In Oost; known for its exceptional weekend brunch buffet
What to Do
• Anne Frank House — Book immediately; tickets drop every Tuesday at 10 AM Amsterdam time, six weeks out
• Rijksmuseum — Check for evening hours for a slightly less hectic visit
• Prostitution Information Centre (De Wallen) — A thoughtful entry point into De Wallen’s history and culture
• Vintage salon boat canal tours — Go small and guided; avoid the large party “buses”
• Amsterdam Light Festival — November–January; illuminated art along the canals
• King’s Day (Koningsdag) — April 27; street markets, orange everything, genuinely local vibe
• Free ferries from Amsterdam Centraal to Noord — Walk or ride your bike on; no ticket needed
• Tulip fields near Keukenhof — View from the field edges in spring; don’t walk into the flowers
• SAIL Amsterdam 2030 — The world’s largest maritime event, returning in 2030
Stay Connected
• Sign up for Behind the Mic, our podcast newsletter with episode news and behind-the-scenes details.
• Also from Afar: View From Afar (the future of travel) and Travel Tales (first-person travel stories).
Unpacked by Afar is part of Airwave Media’s podcast network. To advertise, contact advertising@airwavemedia.com
Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices
Is it okay to watch a violent movie next to a stranger's kid on a plane? Should you abandon your airline loyalty card? And wait—is March actually the real start of the new year?
On this episode of Unpacked, host Aislyn Greene is joined by Afar editorial director Billy Cohen and deputy editor Michelle Baron for a wide-ranging conversation tied to Afar's annual Plan Your Travel Year package on afar.com. Together they break down what travelers actually need to know heading into 2026—from the shifting airline loyalty landscape and the true cost of travel credit cards to the events, destinations, and flight routes worth planning around this year.
Plus: Michelle debuts a very special musical interlude. You'll want to stay for that.
On this episode you'll learn:
Why February (or maybe March?) is the real time to start planning your travel year
How the airline loyalty and travel credit card game has changed—and what to do about it
Which destinations are worth getting to before they blow up (Malta and Panama are calling)
What events—from the World Cup to America's 250th—are shaping travel in 2026
Tips for stretching your PTO using federal holidays strategically
Don't miss these moments:
[01:45] The lightning round: TSA PreCheck, window vs. aisle, and travel credit cards in one word (or two)
[09:45] Why the airline loyalty game "isn't so loyal anymore"
[16:00] The Chase Sapphire Reserve breakup, and what it means for your points strategy
[25:20] Biometrics, face scanning, and how close we really are to a passport-free airport
[30:00] The lounge wars—and the case for a family-friendly soundproof play area
[33:30] America 250: Tall ships in New York, a new Roosevelt Presidential Library, and a reexamination of the Battle of Little Bighorn
[38:00] World Cup 2026: How to get tickets, where to stay, and why Providence might be smarter than Boston
[44:30] How to stretch your PTO using federal holidays—and why Terry Ward changed Michelle's mind
[48:30] Places to go before they get popular: Panama, Malta, Warsaw, and more
[54:00] Revisiting the lightning round—and Billy's unexpected in-flight encounter with a Mad Men star's dad
Resources:
Explore Afar's complete Plan Your Travel Year package on afar.com.
Read our story about whether or not airline loyalty is still worth it.
Read Terry Ward's story on how to maximize your PTO in 2026.
Read Afar's guide to 12 places to visit before they get popular.
Explore Afar's Where to Go in 2026 list.
Stay up to date with Afar's travel news coverage, including airline routes, loyalty programs, and credit card updates.
Use points.me or Points Path to help maximize your miles and points redemptions.
Be sure to subscribe to the show and sign up for our podcast newsletter, Behind the Mic, where we share upcoming news and behind-the-scenes details of each episode. And explore our second podcast, Travel Tales, which celebrates first-person narratives about the way travel changes us, and View From Afar, where we spotlight the people and ideas shaping the future of travel.
Unpacked by Afar is part of Airwave Media's podcast network. Please contact advertising@airwavemedia.com if you would like to advertise on our podcast.
Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices
Welcome to Unpacked, Five Questions, a podcast that takes you behind the scenes of one great travel story.
In this episode, host and Afar executive editor Katherine LaGrave sits down with contributing writer Lisa Abend, a Copenhagen‑based journalist known for her deep reporting on food, culture, and the ways travel shapes communities. For her latest Afar feature, Lisa embarked on an ambitious road trip across northern Spain to visit five tiny towns where some of the country’s most exciting chefs are opening destination restaurants — and, in the process, helping revive regions long affected by depopulation.
Lisa shares how she first discovered this movement, why these chefs are choosing villages of just a few hundred residents over major cities, and how their restaurants are sparking unexpected ripple effects — from new guesthouses to revived local food traditions. She also talks about the surprising absence of seafood in northern Spain’s inland kitchens, the emotional family histories behind many of these restaurants, and why chatting with gas‑station attendants might be the best road‑trip advice you’ll hear all year.
On this episode you’ll learn:
Why some of Spain’s most ambitious chefs are opening restaurants in remote villages
How food tourism can help counter rural depopulation
What makes northern Spain’s regional cultures so distinct — from language to landscape to cuisine
Why hyperlocal cooking in these towns often excludes seafood, even when the coast is close
How family history shapes the stories these chefs tell on the plate
Don’t miss these moments:
[03:00] The Madrid chef conference that sparked Lisa’s reporting
[05:00] How a single restaurant can create a ripple effect across a small town
[07:00] The surprising reason none of these restaurants serve seafood
[14:00] Lisa’s best advice for road‑tripping across northern Spain
[16:00] The gas‑station cherry exchange that became an unforgettable travel moment
[21:00] The “pregnant bun” dish Lisa would eat again in a heartbeat
[22:00] How family stories — and even abandoned villages — shaped the chefs’ menus
Resources
Read Lisa’s full Afar feature on Spain’s small‑town culinary revolution
Follow Lisa Abend for more food and travel reporting
Explore Afar’s Spain travel guides
Visit the restaurants Lisa mentions in the episode and her story: Versátil, Monte, Arrea!, Ansils, Fuentelgato
Be sure to subscribe to the show and sign up for our podcast newsletter, Behind the Mic, where we share upcoming episodes and behind‑the‑scenes details. You can also explore our other podcasts: View From Afar, about the people and companies shaping the future of travel, and Travel Tales, which celebrates first‑person narratives about the way travel changes us.
Unpacked by Afar is part of the Airwave Media podcast network. To inquire about advertising, contact advertising@airwavemedia.com.
Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices






















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