Woodworking Reviews at LumberJocks.com

With dial set to max depth the nails barely sink in that soft pre-primed material. Roll the gun just a little and won’t sink at all. I hate setting nails. I do this for a living and it takes so much time relatively speaking. An Amazon return. One star.

Overview Of Wagner 590 Review Wagner is a big name in the paint spraying game for making economical options that are generally most suited for do-it-yourselfers. As is true with any tool manufacturer, some of what it has to offer is really great, while some of its other tools fall a little flat. Today, the goal is to determine which of these categories the Wagner Flexio 590 falls into. Most shoppers will probably find that there are departments in which the Flexio fits both categories. In terms of high-quality performance, there are certainly some aspects of this tool that the average do-it-yourselfer will probably appreciate. The biggest draw for the Flexio 590 is probably its versatility, which is not necessarily something you see with bargain-priced options. The iSpray nozzle is highly adjustable, which means you won’t have any trouble changing the spray pattern vertically and horizontally for a wider range of use. Unfortunately, the iSpray nozzle is also a vulnerable component of the tool. We found that this feature is a little bit finicky and prone to clogging, which can prove frustrating. Still, if you are an average user looking for an affordable way to lay a lot of paint, the Flexio 590 may very well still seem appealing. You can read the details and comparison of Wagner spray painters . As I learn alot from this source. SpecificationsCompany: Wagner Model: Flexio 590 Weight: 10.15 pounds Dimensions: 15.9×6.7×13.9 inches Features Detail Finish Nozzle: Perfect for Furniture and Fine Finish PaintingThe Wagner Flexio 590 is mostly designed for bigger jobs, like painting the walls of a home. But, in keeping with the spirit of versatility that it exhibits in the iSpray feature, it can also be used for detail-driven projects. The detail finish accessory is a great way to put the finishing touches on a project that requires a little more skill and attention. The good news is that this tool is much better at handling clogs than the iSpray nozzle. Easy to CleanWe mentioned earlier that this tool is overly prone to clogging, which is going to be true no matter what you do. However, the fact that the spray gun has been designed for easy cleaning is still a big plus. This optimization is born mostly of the fact that the gun is easy to break apart. Wagner calls this the Lock N Go design. The feature also allows for easy, stress-free removal of accessories and attachments, which is, of course, also good to see. iSpray Nozzle: Providing VersatilityThe iSpray nozzle is a very convenient way to adjust paint spray patterns to accommodate the unique needs of a given job. The more you are able to adjust a paint sprayer, the more you will ultimately be able to do with it.

I bought this blade from Infinity over a year ago. Since I have used it for a variety of non through cuts to make perfect 0.25 wide cuts for that groove for drawer bottoms, making drawer joinery for Dado Rabbet joints, also becoming known as 1/4, 1/4, 1/4 joinery. And most recently to make Box Joints on the jig you see in the pic. Sure I could use a Dado blade, and get a kinda 0.25 cut, or even that 2 blade Freud box joint set, again and get a kinda 0.25 wide cut. I say kinda, and you could argue they are dead on, but if you’ve used them, and then had to double back to cut another part, and needed to set up the Dado blade, or the box joint blade, you can see the differences you get. With this blade it’s always as wide as it is, which is exactly 0.25” wide, and has FTG teeth so it always gives a very flat bottom. Which again you’ve seen the bats ears on Dado blades, and those 2 blade sets. Cost is the only reason that everyone may not feel the need to buy, but if you are like me, and make a LOT of 1/4” wide cuts that are NON through cuts for joinery, then I feel it’s a deal.

I had been getting tired of reshaping bevels on sandpaper (messy, eventually expensive) or my water stones (painfully slow). I had been eyeing diamond stones but was put off the cost for stones that were guaranteed to be quality and not Amazon flea market ripoffs. Then, a recent Stumpy Nubs tool roundup featured CBN honing tools from Wood Turners Wonders. Cheaper than diamond stones but promising to be flat, aggressive, and long lived? Sounds good to me! I wanted to get the coarse and medium grits, then polish up on my stones and strop but the medium are currently backordered so I just got the coarse. Coarse in this case is listed as “180/220.” I’ve never used a diamond plate before, just sandpaper and waterstones. This thing is aggressive.It used to take me hours on sandpaper and stones to do a significant bevel reshaping. About 100 strokes on this did the same work. Caution though: the grits are rough. The “180” side feels like 80 grit sandpaper and the “200” feels like 120 grit sandpaper. The edge on the tools looked serrated after the 180 side. Cleaned up just fine when I went to my 250 grit waterstone though. Great buy, great alternative to diamonds as far as I can tell.

Had a great 8’ strait edge years ago. Spring assisted, push handle down to lock. I broke it loading into a van and been looking for a replacement since. Thought this was it, but it’s not. Instead of lining up on your marks and pushing handle down to lock, this you have to pull fixed handle toward you, reach beneath it with other hand and manually push stop against plywood edge. No way to keep straight and stay on your marks. Should’ve bought $60 worth of crack instead of this and I don’t even smoke crack! One star is very generous.

When you want to micro-adjust something, it’s important that the “micro” part works—not just the “adjust” part. And the “micro” aspect only works if the tolerances are also “micro,” right? So congratulations to Kreg—this micro-adjuster is adjustable in .005” increments with each scribed line around it’s barrel—nice. But the barrel and threaded rod slide… get this… .006” side-to-side in its aluminum housing. That means you could rotate the barrel one ‘tick’ to .005” and still be further away from where you wanted to be just because the barrel moved side-to-side more than what you already moved it. It could pretty easily be solved by them with a super-thin slippery-type washer (or more accurate milling of the blue aluminum body)—but it seems silly that a thing I bought for… accuracy… isn’t very accurate. Room for improvement. At $29.00 it’s certainly not any type of bargain if it’s not accurate.

Don’t use Dremel much, actually a Milwaukee m12 rotary tool that was part of a kit, but I needed to cut a bunch of those awful ventilated shelving pieces. Above mentioned zipped right thru it. Easy change chuck and EZ lock system worked great. Recommended

Four stars because I haven’t seen every handle out there, some may be even better Kind of a hybrid “review” here. So, I was doing a de-clamping of a project that used a bunch of parallel jaw clamps. My usual procedure is to remove a clamp, then lean it against the saw as I hold up the project and work the next clamp.Out of the corner of my eye I saw the leaning clamp start to slide and fall over (happens all the time for me). Later in the day while clamping up the next glue up, I reached for that clamp and realized it had no handle! 8^/ This was a Jet brand parallel jaw clamp I had bought several years ago. Compared to my early generation Bessy’s, the Jets are an improvement in many ways. The bars are bigger, less flexing.The handles are much larger and easier to grip.A head lock which is handy when clamping vertically.They are a few inches longer that the Bessys in each size group, seems I’m always running about 1” short of clamp capacity with the Bessys and need to grab a longer one. The Jets have that extra inch. Negative thing about the Jets is they are clunky and crude compared to the operation of the Bessys, but the end function of clamping is quite good. Anyway, back to the handle. The plastic handle had snapped off. To the object of review:I have no lathe so making a new one quickly wasn’t going to happen. I didn’t want to spend a lot of time dealing with this.Looking for a replacement I found a large “Nicholson” branded ”#00” handle that seemed like it was about the right size. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001T4KQJ6 $7 delivered. My clamp shaft is 0.540” and this handle came in about 0.1” under. To keep the hole centered I gradually increased the drill bit side so each drill pass would stay centered in the hole. Since I had no bit to get the last 0.040 past the 1/2”, I chucked up a router bit and “yazed” it around to get a snug fit to the clamp shaft. The shaft has a flat and I intended to take a slice off a 1/2” dowel and epoxy it into the handle, but the slice would have been really thin so I just thought fuggit, I’ll just epoxy the thing and let that fill the small gap. I marked the shaft to index where the pin hole was and carefully measured and market the ferrule so when installed I could drill for the pin and actually hit the hole. When ever I disassemble some machinery/electronic junk before trashing it, I’ll salvage “useful” parts. Shafting is one item I hoard so I have a good selection. A piece just slightly bigger than the shaft pin hole was found. With the replacement handle hole filled with a goodly amount of epoxy, I pressed the handle onto the shaft and then let it sit so the epoxy would flow internally down around the shaft and flat (no leaks!) After thickening up a bit, I used a small drill to find the pin hole, then enalrged it to the proper size for my new pin. Some bashing on the vises “anvil” peened over the pin and I didn’t even smack my thumb! So basically this new handle was a good, inexpensive and quick repair.

I have used these for years and would not be without.Does part of what a leaf blower does- clean the walkway, blow leaves off the roof.Beats compressed air hands down for most things except blowing out bearings.Variable speed so it can both blast debris out of the back corners, and also delicately sweep fines into a pile.On a jobsite, it is the sound of quitting time as it is used to blow the dust off of oneself.The battery model is also useful, but about 2/3 the power so not a replacement.Don’t be put off by the price- just buy it!Add a long (20-25’) cord if it doesn’t come with one. https://www.makitatools.com/products/details/UB1103

REVIEW OF LIBERON FINISHING OIL Let me start by saying I’m a hobby woodworker, I have no affiliation with Liberon. I bought my first can of Liberon Finishing Oil at Rockler on a whim quite a few years ago. The price has increased considerably over the years, I still buy it because it’s worth it and I haven’t found anything better at any price. From time to time over the years I’ve ask myself, why don’t woodworkers in the woodworking communities I frequent, talk (rave) more about Liberon Finishing Oil? I’ve mentioned it several times here on LJ without much response. So, I thought I would Do a review and start a conversation here. First of all, I absolutely love Liberon Finishing Oil, It’s the most used finish in my shop. It’s pricey but in my opinion very well worth it. I haven’t used it on light colored woods much as I work mostly with darker woods like Mahogany, Walnut and Cherry. After thirty years of woodworking, I’ve yet to find a finish I prefer over Liberon Finishing Oil. I can’t say I’ve tried them all, but I have spent some $$ and time trying a lot of finishes and techniques. I’ve used BLO, a variety of the more popular commercially available finishes (OSMO, Maloof ETC.) as well as wipe on, spray and brush on Poly as well including Lacquer. I’ve spent a ton of $$$ on badger hair brushes, HVLP spray system and the like and they are all stored away nicely and un used for a few years now. The Liberon initial cost is more than anything else I’ve tried but can be applied with steel wool and shop towels. In my experience the luster, tone, depth and color of Liberon Finishing oil is unmatched. To me most important benefit of this finish is the reliably great results, no drips, sags or misses even in the little corners. The color enhancement, luster and grain pop with this finish is luxurious, natural, smooth and inviting. Nothing I’ve tried makes the grain pop as nicely, and the color enhancement is just…. well I seldom add any color to the wood. I often think I should do something to improve the photography of my projects. I think my photos never look as good as the real thing, not even close. Perhaps some day. Reparability to me is another of Liberon Finishing oils significant qualities. Sometimes after the 1st – 3rd coat I discover a blemish I missed when prepping, or I find a bit of shop rash from moving things around, or some glue squeeze out I missed. With Liberon Finishing Oil it’s no problem I can shave or sand off an imperfection and after only one or two additional coat its’s gone. Really gone, invisible. To me that’s a reparability at an amazing level. I recently repaired a box I made 10 years ago that was finished with Liberon (you can see it in my projects gallery). The top had significant scratches and dings. I sanded out the imperfections and recoated the top with 2-3 coats of Liberon Finishing Oil. I finally recoated the whole box, just because I am anal. But I didn’t really need to. The repair blended in perfectly, even under raking light after ten years. I also used Liberon Finishing Oil on my cherry bed over ten years ago and it still looks great. In fact, as it changed to that lovely chocolate cherry tone, the finish continues to enhance the wood beautifully. I might choose a harder film finish for a dining room table top, or bar top after applying Liberon, I haven’t tried that yet. I did use Liberon on the mahogany desk top I completed this past year. I expect it to hold up well for years. I’m retired so I don’t use that desk every day, but it does get regular use. So far so good. I guess what I’m saying is that it seems pretty durable so far to me. Here’s how I apply it. First, I use a ROS starting with 180 and going up to 220 grit. I final hand sand to 220 grit with the grain. Then I apply a flood coat with 0000 steel wool (also Liberon) rubbing it in vigorously. I keep flooding 5-10 min till the dry spots stop absorbing the oil. After 10-15 minutes I wipe it “dry”, really dry with blue paper shop towels, sometimes (when I start early in the day) I’ll apply another flood coat and wipe it dry the same way. I let it dry overnight. The next day I apply another coat, again with 0000 steel wool, I let stand for 10-20 minutes and wipe it dry with blue shop towels again. I usually repeat the process with 4-6 coats repairing any imperfections I find. I let it dry over night for each coat. With Liberon you can create a flat look, by applying only a few coats, or low luster with a few more, all the way to high gloss (I’ve never gone this far) with several more. I stop adding coats when the improvements aren’t as great between coats or when I think it looks great in the morning. To summarize, in my opinion, Liberon Furniture Oil (on dark woods) is unbeatable for a natural luster and figure popping eye appeal with even coverage, no runs, no sags ,no dust bunnies. If after the next ten years it turns out it’s not durable enough for a working table top, it’s easy enough to reapply a fresh coat every few decades. It looks so great, it’s worth it. I hope some of you try this product, if you do, I expect it will be your new go to finish. Also, I’m wondering if any of you all have figured out how to make your own Liberon Finishing Oil type of finish in your shop. If so, I would like to know about that. As It seams the only improvement to Liberon Finishing Oil I can recommend is lowering the cost.

I just wanted to give my endorsement to Tico Vogt regarding his shooting board and Donkey ear. I purchased them about a year ago and I’ve been extremely pleased with the product. In fact, saying I’m extremely pleased, is an understatement – his shooting board and Donkey ear are simply fantastic and a pleasure to use. Before buying Tico’s board, I already had a shooting board that I had purchased from Lee Valley. It works fantastic as well, but it did not have the option of a donkey’s ear. I could have tried to make a donkey ear myself and I think I would have been successful, but I am pretty certain that I could not have made one as nice as Tico’s. In addition to being extremely pleased with the shooting board and donkey ear made by Tico, Tico has first class customer support. I contacted him several times after I purchased the board and donkey ear, and he walked me through a couple minor issues I was having. He could not have been more patient – and my issues turned out to be 100% operator error – the shooting board and donkey ear were, from the beginning, absolutely perfect. If you are interested in a shooting board and/or a donkey ear, I wholeheartedly recommend the shooting board donkey ear manufactured by Tico Vogt. His website is https://ticovogt.com. I make a lot of small boxes and the joinery of 90 degrees and 45 degrees have to be absolutely perfect and Tico’s shooting board and donkey ear gives me just that – take care my friends.

I’ve had this awhile now and just decided that this little tool has become more useful than I thought it would so I’m sharing that. Nothing earth shattering.I own a handful of select Harbor Freight tools. Some good, some not so good. I seem to be able to filter out the stuff that might be an issue just by having purchased there enough times. I make fishing lures and needed a small vise that allowed adjustments on some occasions. It’s not a big vise so much beyond fishing lure sized stuff it wouldn’t be the right tool. But I’ve been impressed with (one), how decently made it is for about $20. (Two), how versatile it is. And (Three), that I actually use it more than I thought I would. I’ve put up a picture from HF’s sales page as it’s a better picture than I would take.The vise can pivot in three dimensions so you can angle something it it’s jaws into any position. It has a small jaw that closes quite flat with no gaps and a wider jaw that has dimples in it to hold a rod, or nail or drill bit. And it holds it well. It clamps to the bench and stays quite good. I’ve got mine bolted using the holes in the base. It runs pretty smooth and, well, just works surprisingly nice for what it costs and where it comes from.Maybe not for everyone but maybe for some. If you want to hold something in it to sharpen an edge, or put a drill bit in it to bend some wire around, stuff like that. The multi angle adjustment makes it more pleasant. For the price it’s easy to own even if it’s just occasional use. The SKU number for it at HF is 97160

I’ve had this for a few years- light use as an upgrade in the bike area, but it may move to the shop.Very well made- little slop, precise jaws, and a handy moderate size. Good if you only need a machine vise occasionally- this can be easily pulled out & clamped to the bench or rigged to be held in woodworking vise. Jaws open about 2 1/4”. A bargain at $75 when I got it and still excellent value at about $130 now.

I’ve had a lot of sanders, from the hateful Porter Cable bottle one, various 1/4 sheet ones, various RO ones, even vintage sleepy 1/3 & 1/2 sheet. They seem to work for many folks, but I gave up on random orbit sanders- got tired of replacing expensive hook & loop pads, & still having sanding sheets frisbee across the room, or adhesive pads that don’t come off without leaving a big mess. Anyway, these are great- quiet, low vibration, never jump around on the workpiece, very flat, good lock-on button. The clamps are substantial, pulling the paper tight as you lock them, none of that flimsy wire stuff. Sand into corners, use inexpensive paper, making it easy to keep a variety on hand. Makes sanding almost pleasant. I have two of them, with different grits, & have installed long cords. I don’t punch the paper, but if you hold at a diagonal, the dust gets picked up from the edge of the pad. Highly recommended.

I’ve never done a review like this, but I was so impressed with this vac I wanted to share it. I stumbled onto a review of the vac the other day on YouTube and was impressed enough from the video to order one. I currently have a 16 Gal. 6.5-Peak HP NXT vac I just bought a year or so ago, but after trying this new one in person, the Ridgid is going up for sale. The name does not misrepresent at all! This vac is VERY quiet. I’ve never heard a wet-dry vac so quiet. I downloaded a decibel meter to my phone to try to be a little more scientific and found this to be 15-20 decibels quieter than my Ridgid. I suppose that may not seem like much by reading, but in real world use, it’s a really big difference. I could easily hold a conversation at normal volume right next to it and let it run all day without being bothered. When I get it into an enclosure I doubt I’ll be able to hear it much at all. But then I was worried if that comes at a power cost. After all, the Ridgid is 12 amps and rated at 161 CFM, where this one is only 8 amps and rated at 105 CFM. So I did the old water bucket test to see how they performed. I don’t know how scientific it is, but I filled a 5 gallon bucket with water and timed how long it took each vac to suck up the water. I expected to see a pretty big difference given the amp and CFM rating difference, but I was surprised to find that they performed nearly identically! The Dewalt filter is actually slightly bigger than the Ridgid, so I don’t expect that to be a bottleneck either. As a bonus, the hose opening is the same size as the Ridgid and all of my current accessories fit the Dewalt just fine, so I don’t have to go out and buy all new ones. Also, I really like the accessory bag that hangs on the vac instead of the various puzzle of accessory holders around the vac that can get in the way. Though I won’t have any use for that. All in all I can’t really find anything negative to say about it. Long-term testing will reveal how it holds up, but for my light use I don’t expect it to ever be a problem. In case anyone is interested in getting one, as of the writing of this review this vac is selling for $179 at HD, $166 on Amazon, but at Lowes it’s only $139, and that isn’t a sale price. Compared to the Ridgid that has a regular price of $149, it seems like a no-brainer to go with this vac. Link to Lowe's

Had to cut a 10’ strip of T-111 already installed. Cut was close to ground and didn’t feel like laying on belly with skilsaw to cut, was scabbing on a new piece and running lattice over cut line so ugly cut was fine. I bought the aforementioned DeeWalt piece of crap blade. Took forever to go thru 3/8” T-111. Took even longer to go thru 10’ of 3/8” T-lll. But Lowes refunded money so could’ve been worse. Zero stars. Kicked off the island. You are dismissed, DeeWalt.

Recently purchased this set to use on finish work for a current cabinet refacing. I have used airless systems in the past and know how to spray and have good control. (Just don’t care for the overspray). The HVPL kit included the main gun, gravity feed 20 Oz cup and 2 tips (a 1.4mm and a 1.8mm). The detail gun has a 0.8mm tip. Also included with the kit are cleaning brushes, filter, extra needle valve pin and the case. This is the first time I have used HVPL System. There was a little bit ifva learning curve to dial in the spray pattern. There are 3 main adjustments, flow rate, pattern shape (long oval to fat oval to circle), then the air flow. Once I figured everything out, I was able to get a good finish on the painted surfaces. I also had to play around with the thinning ratio of the paint. I have not used the detail gun as of yet, but will put it to use doing a few touch ups. But for the $50, I think this was a decent investment to jump into a spray system. I also have a hard air line installed in the shop. Regulator and Filter in line. I did have to keep an eye on the filter to drain the water put of the system. Every now and then I would also discharge the line to release any moisture before the air hose connection. Probably normal with any air system. Hope this helps others to decide on a HVPL Spray Gun. Thanks for reading and comments are always welcome.

I ordered a basic set of Dastra carving tools – four straight gouges and a 60° V tool. I have never carved wood before and these types and sizes were recommended as a starting point. Like most European brands in the $50+ price range these got fairly good reviews. The reality was mixed. The good: Handles are good to grip. Length and balance are good for someone with larger hands. Steel is good quality.The 3/6 gouge came ground at about a 22° bevel. I honed it on a 4000 grit waterstone and then stropped and it cut through my test hunk of catalpa cleanly and easily.The V tool seemed to be honed well out of the package. I just stropped it and it was like a knife through butter. Deadly sharp. In fact, when I pulled it off the strop it casually brushed against my left middle finger – no pressure at all, just picking it up – and sliced right across like a razor blade. The bad: After testing the other gouges for sharpness I discovered that the 7/6 gouge was ground to a 30° bevel and the 5/14 and 7/14 are ground to forty five degree bevels. I don’t have a power sharpening system and this is going to take literally an entire day to grind these down to a reasonable 20-25 degree bevel by hand. I expect to have to do this sort of reshaping from secondhand eBay chisels, not from brand new premium tools. The ugly: The V tool. It’s sharp but misshappen. I don’t know exactly what a v tool should look like in person, but after looking at pictures online I am sure that it’s not this: That wing has a curve in it. The other wing slants backwards, causing the keel to have a point sticking out! This is asymmetrical in multiple ways. If I wanted to fix this, I’d have to grind about 1/16” off the end! This is going to be a return. Razor sharp doesn’t matter if it’s ground absolutely wonky. Summary: I really expected better from a premium European brand than one good gouge, three I have to seriously regrind the bevel, and one that is a mess. When I expand my set of gouges as I learn, I’ll be looking elsewhere – Two Cherries or Hirsch. As for Dastra, the good ones are good, but this is just too inconsistent for the money.

I heard of Kant Twist clamps fifty years ago and when I was a tool maker and I made a small pair that I used in my work in the tool room and still use them. Last year I found a pair for sale at a flea market for $7 each and now I use them all the time in place of C- clamps or squeeze clamps for really holding solid. The other thing is the jaws come together parallel and don’t force the parts to slide or turn when tightening. They are great for welding as well as woodworking. Below is the ad for new ones but if you ever see a used pair for a good price, buy them. You won’t be disappointed. Cheers, Jim https://www.mscdirect.com/product/details/08087066

Hi LJ’s, I thought I would take a few minutes and post this 12 month follow-up after a warranty repair to my Delta 36-725T2 table saw. About a year ago, I posted a rather scathing review of this saw due to a hard failure 35 days after purchase. You can read my tale of woe in my previous review, but the short version is – a brake failure jambed the motor shaft which blew the start capacitor on the subsequent power up. It then took about 6 weeks for the warranty work (a complete motor assembly replacement) to be completed. So, how has the saw been running since? Well, I’m happy to report that it has been fine. I still kind of hold my breath when I turn it on, but it has not failed to start-up since the repair. I’m a pretty serious hobbist and use the saw almost daily. I’ve completed a number of fairly large projects with it with no problems to report. Since getting the saw back following the repair and tuning it up, I’ve found that it continues to stay “dialed-in” and cuts accurately. Yeah, it doesn’t preform like a 3HP cabinet saw, but my shop is 110v so I adjust accordingly and run stock thru it more slowly. It has enough power for my needs. I do run the saw on a shared 20A circuit. So to be on the safe side of the power issue, I make sure that no other devices (compressor, fans, etc.) are running while the saw is operating. No big deal for me… When in the market for a new table saw, I was torn between the Dewalt jobsite saw and the Delta T2. For about the same price, the Delta came with the added bonus of a cast iron top, a great fence and steel rail system as well as dual cranks for adjusting blade height and angle. The dual cranks may seem like a small thing, but after dealing with the Ridgid jobsite saw crank system for 10 years, it was a factor for me. The belt drive verses direct drive motor was also a factor. Another item I like about the Delta T2 is the built-in mobility. I’ve got a small shop (325sqft), so I’m always moving things around. I also like the one-wrench blade removal. So, I took the leap of faith and bought the Delta T2. After the failure, I was kicking myself for doing so. But I have to say, in the 12 months since the warranty repair, I’ve come to really like this saw. It cuts smooth (it really does pass the nickel test) and remains accurate. I’ve since added a simple cross cut sled and a removable out feed table. Is there anything I don’t like about the T2? Well, the early failure was hard to get past (had to deduct 1 star because of it). A couple of items that give me some trouble from time to time are the power switch and table height. I tend to bump the power switch with my hip. It’s probably just a “me” thing. At 37 inches, I find the table a little too tall. Depending on the cut, I sometimes feel as it I’m reaching to push the stock thru the blade. Just gotta be careful, I guess. So, would I recommend the Delta T2? Yes, but with a major qualifier concerning the failure. When running, I like this saw. And it could be a perfect step-up saw from the jobsite/bench top class. But in the back of my mind, I’m always wondering if/when there will be a next failure. And because of that, I’m hanging on to my little 8.25 inch Dewalt table top saw as an emergency back up. OK, enough from me. If you made it this far, thanks for reading…