the Sharp End Podcast

Steve was in an accident back in 2019 in the Chamonix range in France. He was climbing with a friend, who also works on the Chamonix Rescue Helicopter Team. They got stuck in bad weather on the way down a route and ended up having to do an emergency bivi (without bivi gear) in a rapidly dug ice cave high up on the glacier. They learned a lot from this incident. Tune in this episode to hear more. This podcast is produced by Ashley Saupe. This podcast is sponsored by Rocky Talkie and LIVSN. Outdoor Vitals is supporting this episode with a giveaway of two Ventus Hoodies. To sign up for the giveaway, head to the SharpEndPodcast.com. Giveaway is open through January 30th. We also partnered with the Backcountry Game in order to expand avalanche education in a fun and active way through playing this new boardgame. → Use code SHARPEND to waive the activation fee on ZOLEO → Get 15% off the T-Rex 3 watch at www.amazfit.com/sharpend → 10% off LIVSN clothes with code TSE10 (limited to 30 uses) → 10% off Rocky Talkie radios at RockyTalkie.com/SharpEnd → 15% off Swoop garments with code SHARPEND → 20% off First Aid contents at MyMedic.com with code SHARPEND20 Instagram: the_sharp_end_podcast YouTube: @thesharpendpodcast Become a Patron: patreon.com/thesharpendpodcast Visit my website: www.thesharpendpodcast.com

Nate Oakes had an epic while climbing a multi-pitch route on Mount Evans in Colorado. He says it was a learning experience in route planning, taking responsibility for making safe decisions, speaking up when you're uncomfortable, and being more prepared for what to do when things don't go according to plan. Now, Nate is a big believer in always carrying the ‘10 Essentials’ out on adventures. Tune in this episode to hear why. This podcast is produced by Ashley Saupe. This podcast is sponsored by Rocky Talkie, LIVSN, ZOLEO and AmazFit. → Use code SHARPEND to waive the activation fee on ZOLEO → Get 15% off the T-Rex 3 watch at www.amazfit.com/sharpend → 10% off LIVSN clothes with code TSE10 (limited to 30 uses) → 10% off Rocky Talkie radios at RockyTalkie.com/SharpEnd → 15% off Swoop garments with code SHARPEND → 20% off First Aid contents at MyMedic.com with code SHARPEND20 Instagram: the_sharp_end_podcast YouTube: @thesharpendpodcast Become a Patron: patreon.com/thesharpendpodcast Visit my website: www.thesharpendpodcast.com

May of 2023, Chris set out to rope solo Virgin Wool (5.8 C2) in Arches National Park. The description of the first pitch read: "5.7 - sporty - no pro.” To Chris, it looked harder than a 5.7 from the ground, and he noticed a seam that he thought he could aid up, so he decided to try and aid climb the route. It didn’t go as planned and he ripped out two cams and fell 10 feet to the ground, landing on his heels before tumbling backwards. After a lot of self reflection (and therapy), Chris learned a bit about the psychology of climbing solo, and a bit more about risk management. Tune in this episode to hear more. This podcast is produced by Ashley Saupe. This podcast is sponsored by Rocky Talkie, ZOLEO and AmazFit. → Use code SHARPEND to waive the activation fee on ZOLEO → Get 15% off the T-Rex 3 watch at www.amazfit.com/sharpend → 10% off LIVSN clothes with code TSE10 (limited to 30 uses) → 10% off Rocky Talkie radios at RockyTalkie.com/SharpEnd → 15% off Swoop garments with code SHARPEND → 20% off First Aid contents at MyMedic.com with code SHARPEND20 Instagram: the_sharp_end_podcast YouTube: @thesharpendpodcast Become a Patron: patreon.com/thesharpendpodcast Visit my website: www.thesharpendpodcast.com

In April of this year (2024), Tanner and Parker were swept down Mt. Shasta after triggering a wind stab. After a 12 hour ground rescue, they were finally off the mountain, but did sustain physical and mental injuries from the traumatic event. Tune into this episode to hear their story. This podcast is produced by Ashley Saupe. This podcast is sponsored by Rocky Talkie, ZOLEO and AmazFit. → Use code SHARPEND to waive the activation fee on ZOLEO → Get 15% off the T-Rex 3 watch at US.Amazfit.com/sharpend → 10% off LIVSN clothes with code TSE10 (limited to 30 uses) → 10% off Rocky Talkie radios at RockyTalkie.com/SharpEnd → 15% off Swoop garments with code SHARPEND → 20% off First Aid contents at MyMedic.com with code SHARPEND20 Instagram: the_sharp_end_podcast YouTube: @thesharpendpodcast Become a Patreon: patreon.com/thesharpendpodcast Visit my website: www.thesharpendpodcast.com

In March of this year, Brandon took his wife and a visiting climber from Hungry to the Atlantis climbing area in Queen Creek Canyon near Phoenix, AZ. They were warming up on some easy routes and were all thoroughly enjoying the day. On Brandon’s second lead of the day climbing an easy 5.8, things were going fine until they weren’t. From what Brandon later heard from his belayer, wife, and a bystander who witnessed the event, he was approximately 7-8 ft above his last bolt (the second bolt in the climb) and at clipping level to the next one, when a flake of rock he was using as a toehold sheared off quite suddenly. The flake fell and hit his belayer's hand, who had the presence of mind not to lose the rope. Brandon fell, hit a ledge with his shoulder and then head and then hit the ground 20 feet below. Listen here for the full story. This podcast is produced by Ashley Saupe. This podcast is sponsored by Rocky Talkie, the American Alpine Institute and LIVSN. HELMET GIVEAWAY: Brandon feels so passionately about people wearing helmets, that he wants to purchase TWO helmets for TWO people that would be unable to purchase their own helmet due to financial reasons. He was wearing a Black Diamond Capitan helmet when he had his unplanned encounter with gravity (and that’s what very likely saved his life) so that’s the helmet he wants to purchase to give away. In order to be considered for this helmet sponsorship, head over to thesharpendpodcast.com and sign up on the homepage. Remember, this is exclusive to people who do not already have a helmet due to financial reasons. Giveaway will be on September 30th. Good luck! → Use code “SharpEnd25” to save $25 on the fall WFA course October 5-6 2024 at the Monadnock Climbing Gym. Register at https://www.climb-monadnock.com/ → 10% off LIVSN clothes with code TSE10 (limited to 30 uses) → 10% off Rocky Talkie radios at RockyTalkie.com/SharpEnd → 15% off Swoop garments with code SHARPEND → 20% off First Aid contents at MyMedic.com with code SHARPEND20 Instagram: the_sharp_end_podcast YouTube: @thesharpendpodcast Become a Patreon: patreon.com/thesharpendpodcast Visit my website: www.thesharpendpodcast.com

Sean Oldfield was climbing Mount Shasta this year in May when he was violently struck in the back of the head by a falling rock on his descent. Despite wearing a helmet (which saved his life), Sean ended up getting flown off the mountain in a helicopter to the hospital, where he received multiple staples in his head, a fractured skull, and a concussion. Tune in to hear the details and what he learned. This podcast is produced by Ashley Saupe. This podcast is sponsored by Rocky Talkie, the American Alpine Institute and LIVSN. → Use code “SharpEnd25” to save $25 on the fall WFA course October 5-6 2024 at the Monadnock Climbing Gym. Register at https://www.climb-monadnock.com/ → 10% off LIVSN clothes with code TSE10 (limited to 30 uses) → 10% off Rocky Talkie radios at RockyTalkie.com/SharpEnd → 15% off Swoop garments with code SHARPEND → 20% off First Aid contents at MyMedic.com with code SHARPEND20 Instagram: the_sharp_end_podcast YouTube: @thesharpendpodcast Become a Patreon: patreon.com/thesharpendpodcast Visit my website: www.thesharpendpodcast.com

Kirk and Fred have been friends for a long time. They have done adventure races together in the past and know where their limits lie. During this adventure, Fred nearly lost his life to heat stroke when they were doing the Rim to Rim to Rim (R2R2R) in the Grand Canyon. Kirk and Fred talk openly about what led up to the incident and how they managed it during and after. Tune in to hear more. This podcast is produced by Ashley Saupe. This podcast is sponsored by Rocky Talkie. → Use code “SharpEnd25” to save $25 on the fall WFA course October 5-6 2024 at the Monadnock Climbing Gym. Register at https://www.climb-monadnock.com/ → 10% off Rocky Talkie radios at RockyTalkie.com/SharpEnd → 15% off Swoop garments with code SHARPEND → 20% off First Aid contents at MyMedic.com with code SHARPEND20 Instagram: the_sharp_end_podcast YouTube: @thesharpendpodcast Become a Patreon: patreon.com/thesharpendpodcast Visit my website: www.thesharpendpodcast.com

This is a crazy incident where my guest was bit by a rattlesnake in June of 2022 and ended up in the hospital for 12 straight days. She was climbing at Consumnes River Gorge in Lake Tahoe and it was going to be her first time trad climbing. The crew was getting all set up near the first climb, she decided to use the “facili-trees” (if you will) before putting on her harness. She walked away from the group and found a private area, was about to go when she felt something bit her! Tune into this crazy story of a rattlesnake bite and her long road to recovery. This podcast is produced by Ashley Saupe. This podcast is sponsored by Rocky Talkie and supported by the American Alpine Institute. Sign up on Instagram to win some climbing gear from Ropelite valued at $185! The kit includes: two 6-foot Red Ultralight Anchor Slings Two 20-inch Ultralight Hitch Cords and One Skimo Tether. That is a $185 dollar value. Drawing is on June 15th. Don’t forget to sign up for the Arc’teryx Climbing Academy: https://squamish.arcteryxacademy.com/ → Use code “SharpEnd25” to save $25 on the fall WFA course October 5-6 2024 at the Monadnock Climbing Gym. Register at https://www.climb-monadnock.com/ → 10% off Rocky Talkie radios at RockyTalkie.com/SharpEnd → Up to 30% off Hydration & Energy Bundle. Includes each of each best-selling flavors of Hydration & Energy at protekt.com/sharpend → 10% off Swoop garments with code SHARPEND → 20% off First Aid contents at MyMedic.com with code SHARPEND20 → 10% off any wilderness medicine course with Desert Mountain Medicine using code SHARPEND Instagram: the_sharp_end_podcast YouTube: @thesharpendpodcast Become a Patreon: patreon.com/thesharpendpodcast Visit my website: www.thesharpendpodcast.com

This is Part Two of this story sequence with Taylor Rose. If you haven’t tuned in to episode 99, stop here and go back and listen to Part One (Episode 99) where Taylor Rose shares all about the details of his accident when he broke his femur on April 2nd, 2021 backcountry skiing in Huntington Ravine in the Mount Washington area. In this episode, Taylor reflects on what he learned and how he moved through the challenging recovery. This podcast is produced by Ashley Saupe. This podcast is sponsored by Rocky Talkie, the Arc’teryx Climbing Academy and supported by the American Alpine Club. To sign up for the Arc’teryx Climbing Academy: https://squamish.arcteryxacademy.com/ Sign up to win a pair of Rocky Talkie Mountain Radios at www.thesharpendpodcast.com. Drawing on May 15th. → 10% off Rocky Talkie radios at RockyTalkie.com/SharpEnd → Up to 30% off Hydration & Energy Bundle. Includes each of each best-selling flavors of Hydration & Energy at protekt.com/sharpend → 10% off Swoop garments with code SHARPEND → 20% off First Aid contents at MyMedic.com with code SHARPEND20 → 10% off any wilderness medicine course with Desert Mountain Medicine using code SHARPEND Instagram: the_sharp_end_podcast YouTube: @thesharpendpodcast Become a Patreon: patreon.com/thesharpendpodcast Visit my website: www.thesharpendpodcast.com

Taylor Rose is a twenty-four year old guy who loves the outdoors. He was out skiing in the backcountry with some friends in Huntington Ravine on Mount Washington in 2021 when he suffered a broken femur from a long sliding fall that resulted in a rescue involving his crew and the Mount Washington Avalanche Center. Tune in to hear part one of this series. This podcast is produced by Ashley Saupe. This podcast is sponsored by Rocky Talkie and then American Alpine Institute and supported by the American Alpine Club. → 10% off Rocky Talkie radios at RockyTalkie.com/SharpEnd → Up to 30% off Hydration & Energy Bundle. Includes each of each best-selling flavors of Hydration & Energy at protekt.com/sharpend → 10% off Swoop garments with code SHARPEND → 20% off First Aid contents at MyMedic.com with code SHARPEND20 → 10% off any wilderness medicine course with Desert Mountain Medicine using code SHARPEND Instagram: the_sharp_end_podcast YouTube: @thesharpendpodcast Become a Patreon: patreon.com/thesharpendpodcast Visit my website: www.thesharpendpodcast.com

Devin Farkas was instructing a ten day climbing course in Joshua Tree National Park this last January. They were on day two of this ten day course when Devin’s trip was cut short. Tune into this episode to hear why. This podcast is produced by Ashley Saupe. This podcast is sponsored by Rocky Talkie and then American Alpine Institute and supported by the American Alpine Club. → 10% off Rocky Talkie radios at RockyTalkie.com/SharpEnd → Up to 30% off Hydration & Energy Bundle. Includes each of each best-selling flavors of Hydration & Energy at protekt.com/sharpend → 10% off Swoop garments with code SHARPEND → 20% off First Aid contents at MyMedic.com with code SHARPEND20 → 10% off any wilderness medicine course with Desert Mountain Medicine using code SHARPEND Instagram: the_sharp_end_podcast YouTube: @thesharpendpodcast Become a Patreon: patreon.com/thesharpendpodcast Visit my website: www.thesharpendpodcast.com

On Fourth of July weekend, two climbing partners, Grant and David, set out to climb a 2,200 foot climb on the Northwest face of Half Dome in Yosemite National Park in California. The conditions were perfect to climb this beautiful and exposed twenty-three pitch climb. Things started out perfectly, but not everything turned out as they had planned. Tune into this episode to hear more. This podcast is produced by Ashley Saupe. This podcast is sponsored by Rocky Talkie and then American Alpine Institute and supported by the American Alpine Club. → 10% off Rocky Talkie radios at RockyTalkie.com/SharpEnd → Up to 30% off Hydration & Energy Bundle. Includes each of each best-selling flavors of Hydration & Energy at protekt.com/sharpend → 10% off Swoop garments with code SHARPEND → 20% off First Aid contents at MyMedic.com with code SHARPEND20 → 10% off any wilderness medicine course with Desert Mountain Medicine using code SHARPEND Instagram: the_sharp_end_podcast YouTube: @thesharpendpodcast Become a Patreon: patreon.com/thesharpendpodcast Visit my website: www.thesharpendpodcast.com

In this BONUS episode, I chat with Jeannie Wall and Catherine Coe about an idea that came to life. Jeannie is the founder of BroadBeta which aims to “embolden women through shared stories to embrace wild ideas, wild experiences, and preserve the wildness.” Tune into this bonus episode to hear more about this idea, how it came to life, and what it’s all about. To learn more and to get involved, head to their website: www.BroadBeta.com This podcast is produced by Ashley Saupe

Andrew Clements was climbing in Indian Creek on October 18, 2023 with a couple of climbers he had met in the parking lot the same day. He was on a route called Gorilla, which is rated 5.10b, which was his 3rd route of the day. He was standing about 2 feet above his last piece of gear when he fell. Drew injured his hand and both of his heels. Tune into this episode to hear more. This podcast is produced by Ashley Saupe. This podcast is sponsored by Rocky Talkie and then American Alpine Institute and supported by the American Alpine Club. → 10% off Rocky Talkie radios at RockyTalkie.com/SharpEnd → Up to 30% off Hydration & Energy Bundle. Includes each of each best-selling flavors of Hydration & Energy at protekt.com/sharpend → 10% off Swoop garments with code SHARPEND → 20% off First Aid contents at MyMedic.com with code SHARPEND20 → 10% off any wilderness medicine course with Desert Mountain Medicine using code SHARPEND Instagram: the_sharp_end_podcast YouTube: @thesharpendpodcast Become a Patreon: patreon.com/thesharpendpodcast Visit my website: www.thesharpendpodcast.com

Douglas started this small gear company because he saw a need in the outdoor climbing and rescue community. As a member of Search and Rescue, he found he needed specific gear for specific tasks that could create efficiency within certain tasks. Tune into this episode to hear what RopeLiteLLC is, why and how it started and how this whole interview came about. Check out his gear at www.RopeLiteLLC.com This podcast is produced by Ashley Saupe → 10% off Rocky Talkie radios at RockyTalkie.com/SharpEnd → 15% off Minus33 garments in December with code SHARPEND → 10% off Swoop garments with code SHARPEND → 20% off First Aid contents at MyMedic.com with code SHARPEND20 → 10% off any wilderness medicine course with Desert Mountain Medicine using code SHARPEND Instagram: the_sharp_end_podcast YouTube: @thesharpendpodcast Become a Patreon: patreon.com/thesharpendpodcast

In May of 2023, Allen and Samuel were out skiing Mt. Baker, a 10,781 foot active glacier-covered stratovolcano in the North Cascades of Washington when they came upon another skier who fell 35 feet down inside a crevasse after the snow bridge he was standing on collapsed. With their knowledge of rope skills and crevasse rescue, they sprung into action to rescue the stuck skier. Tune in to this episode to hear all of the details. This podcast is produced by Ashley Saupe. This podcast is sponsored by Rocky Talkie, Minus33 and Protekt and supported by the American Alpine Club. → 10% off Rocky Talkie radios at RockyTalkie.com/SharpEnd → 15% off Minus33 garments in December with code SHARPEND → Up to 30% off Hydration & Energy Bundle. Includes each of each best-selling flavors of Hydration & Energy at protekt.com/sharpend → 10% off Swoop garments with code SHARPEND → 20% off First Aid contents at MyMedic.com with code SHARPEND20 → 10% off any wilderness medicine course with Desert Mountain Medicine using code SHARPEND Instagram: the_sharp_end_podcast YouTube: @thesharpendpodcast Become a Patreon: patreon.com/thesharpendpodcast Visit my website: www.thesharpendpodcast.com

Have you ever heard the phrase “Cotton Kills?” One thing that we can each do to be a responsible outdoors person is to dress appropriately for the activity and weather to minimize the risk of getting too wet and too cold which could lead to hypothermia. Today I talk with Lawson Glidden, owner of Minus33, an American company founded in New Hampshire in 2001. They have been making wool textiles for 100 years bringing you apparel that will keep you warm when wet. Lawson is extremely passionate about wool and you’ll have to tune in to hear why. I present, “the wonders of wool.” → 10% off Rocky Talkie radios at RockyTalkie.com/SharpEnd → 15% off Minus33 garments in December with code SHARPEND → 10% off Swoop garments with code SHARPEND → 20% off First Aid contents at MyMedic.com with code SHARPEND20 → 10% off any wilderness medicine course with Desert Mountain Medicine using code SHARPEND Instagram: the_sharp_end_podcast YouTube: @thesharpendpodcast Become a Patreon: patreon.com/thesharpendpodcast

In April of 2023, Michael Habicht headed over to Nepal to climb the striking 6,812 meter tall mountain, Ama Dablam. As a solo climber, he was met with some unique challenges and learned a ton from his expedition. After Michael got back from this trip he made the decision not to climb 8,000 meter peaks because of the experience he shares on this episode. His reasoning has nothing to do with his technical skills, but you’ll have to tune in to hear why. This podcast is produced by Ashley Saupe. This podcast is sponsored by Rocky Talkie and supported by the American Alpine Club. → 10% off Rocky Talkie radios at RockyTalkie.com/SharpEnd → 10% off Swoop garments with code SHARPEND → 20% off First Aid contents at MyMedic.com with code SHARPEND20 → 10% off any wilderness medicine course with Desert Mountain Medicine using code SHARPEND Instagram: the_sharp_end_podcast YouTube: @thesharpendpodcast Become a Patreon: patreon.com/thesharpendpodcast Visit my website: www.thesharpendpodcast.com

Duane Swanson was rope soloing and found himself in a situation where he got stuck on the rock wall without food or water for nine hours and then had to figure out how to descend… by himself. Tune in to this episode to hear what rope soloing is and how he managed to self rescue. Other articles on Rope Soloing mentioned in the episode include: https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/skills/series/pete_whittaker/how_to_rope_solo_-_with_pete_whittaker-11160 https://gearjunkie.com/climbing/rope-solo-rock-climbing-how-to This podcast is produced by Ashley Saupe. This podcast is sponsored by Rocky Talkie and the American Alpine Institute and supported by the American Alpine Club. → 10% off Rocky Talkie radios at RockyTalkie.com/SharpEnd → 10% off Swoop garments with code SHARPEND → 20% off First Aid contents at MyMedic.com with code SHARPEND20 → 10% off any wilderness medicine course with Desert Mountain Medicine using code SHARPEND Instagram: the_sharp_end_podcast YouTube: @thesharpendpodcast Become a Patreon: patreon.com/thesharpendpodcast Visit my website: www.thesharpendpodcast.com

Myriam Bouchard and her partner were at the City of Rocks having an amazing climbing trip. They were on a 5.8 climb called ‘Twist and Crawl’ and when her partner was at the anchor, he told her that he was ready to be lowered. She began lowering him when all of a sudden, the rope slipped through the belay device and he fell 20 feet down to the ground. Listen to hear the entire story and how she explains experiencing, “the greatest terror of her life.” This podcast is produced by Ashley Saupe. This podcast is sponsored by Rocky Talkie and the American Alpine Institute and supported by the American Alpine Club. → 10% off Rocky Talkie radios at RockyTalkie.com/SharpEnd → 10% off Swoop garments with code SHARPEND → 20% off First Aid contents at MyMedic.com with code SHARPEND20 → 10% off any wilderness medicine course with Desert Mountain Medicine using code SHARPEND Become a Patreon: patreon.com/thesharpendpodcast Visit my website: www.thesharpendpodcast.com