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HandCut Radio

Author: Aleks Cvetkovic

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Menswear matters. There’s a world of stylish men out there, and these are their stories. Every Wednesday, join journalist Aleks Cvetkovic, as he explores the world of men’s style with industry insiders, menswear professionals and some of the most stylish men and women in the business. Whether you’re in search of style inspiration, advice and guidance, or you’re a clothing fanatic who wants insight into some of the biggest issues facing the menswear industry today, this is the podcast for you.
42 Episodes
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Luke Walker is a freelance menswear designer and creative, with a wealth of experience designing for both global designer brands and cult-favourite independents. He’s also embarked on the process of creating his own brand, L.E.J, which is gaining much plaudits from fashionistas just a few seasons in.L.E.J focuses on the intersection of ‘utility and luxury’ in menswear design, so Aleks quizzes Luke on just what the philosophy that underpins L.E.J is. Luke also talks Aleks through some of his early experiences working at Lanvin and Dunhill, and reflects on why he’d rather feel comfortable than look pristine.As always, if you enjoy the episode, please do leave us a review – it really does help like-minded menswear-heads to discover the podcast.---Show Notes:Luke Walker — Instagram | Website[04:14] Alber Elbaz[04:20] Central Saint Martins[05:57] Dover Street Market[07:43] Lucas Ossendrijver[12:01] John Ray (Dunhill)[19:49] Luke’s Father’s Hand-drawn Plan[38:55] Wales Bonner[39:23] Craig Green---HandCut Radio is produced by Birch, a London based creative agency. Our theme music is by Joe Boyd.
This week, we present the first ever watch interview on HandCut Radio, with Nick and Giles English, co-founders of Bremont, a thoroughbred British watchmaker headquartered in Henley-on-Thames.The pair are natural born adventurers and horological innovators, so Aleks quizzes them on their love of flying, the vision that’s underpinned Bremont from day one, their passion for British manufacturing, and we unpick the latest buzzwords in the watch industry ‘inclusive luxury’.Don’t forget to leave us a review if you enjoy the episode, and follow us on Instagram @handcutradio.---Show Notes:Bremont — Instagram | Website[06:30] Gary Numan[10:05] Blériot XI [plane][32:23] Huntsman[43:02] Alice Made This on HCR, S02 E04---HandCut Radio is produced by Birch, a London based creative agency. Our theme music is by Joe Boyd.
This episode is an important one. André is an actor, writer and menswear-head who’s known for his louche, creative personal style. This week, he makes the case for slouchy style and waxes lyrical on jazz and hip-hop. He and Aleks also discuss the industry’s unfortunate lack of diversity, and André’s combined passion and honesty makes for powerful listening.Let us know what you think of the episode on Instagram by messaging @handcutradio, and if you enjoy listening please do leave us a review on Apple Podcasts.---André Larnyoh — Instagram[07:21] Die, Workwear![07:27] The Studio Artist Look, article[12:28] Bitches Brew, Miles Davis[14:50] Ethan Newton, HCR S03 E01[16:18] Bullitt, 1968[16:19] The Thomas Crown Affair, 1968[16:26] Doug Hayward[17:07] The Italian Job, 1969[17:08] Get Carter, 1971[18:45] Jean-Michel Basquiat[22:41] A Tribe Called Quest, Jazz (We've Got) Buggin' Out[23:37] So What (1959), Miles Davis[28:29] Art Comes First[28:30] Casely-Hayford[31:11] Jason Jules[31:20] Adam Rogers[31:33] Norwegian Rain[31:37] Ikiré Jones[31:38] Post–Imperial[38:07] No Man Walks Alone[38:08] Greg Lellouche, HCR S02 E09André's hip-hop Spotify playlist.---HandCut Radio is produced by Birch, a London based creative agency. Our theme music is by Joe Boyd.
Aleks sits down with an old friend and Season One alumnus, Scott Fraser Simpson, the founder of Scott Fraser Collection. The pair discuss Scott’s early obsession with the mod-scene, his compulsive need to collect and the music that influences his clothing designs. Scott also touches on the need for retailers to be responsive in fashion today, and why a made-to-order retail model works so well for him.Don’t forget to leave us a review if you enjoy the episode, and follow us on Instagram @handcutradio.---Show Notes:Scott Fraser Simpson — Website | Instagram[01:52] S01 E02 Scott & Tony HCR episode[07:38] Earth, Wind & Fire[07:42] The Eagles, Greatest Hits[07:48] The Shadows[21:57] Scott’s scooters[24:13] Locker Loop[28:08] Scott Fraser Collection[36:34] Gauthier Borsarello, on HCR[40:55] SFC Icon Series, Ripley Anzio Knit Shirt---HandCut Radio is produced by Birch, a London based creative agency. Our theme music is by Joe Boyd.
To kick-off season four we visit Jojo Elgarice, founder of Rag Parade in Sheffield, an eclectic vintage menswear store known for its wide-ranging collection and careful eye.We spent the day with him a couple of weeks ago and it was one of the most enjoyable days we’ve had working on HandCut Radio this year. He’s a ball of energy; full of jokes, quips, opinions, electric ideas and he’s refreshingly straight forward to boot.We hear about his early years building Rag Parade from the ground up and explore his philosophy as a vintage dealer. Expect colourful anecdotes and witticisms aplenty.---Show Notes:Jojo Elgarice — Instagram[17:58] C.P. Company[21:55] Fashion Buying & Merchandising, LCF[23:30] Rag Parade Contemporary[26:47] 1915 Liverpool, stitch-down collar photo[29:55] Douglas Gunn, Vintage Showroom[32:59] 4-pocket Belstaff Trialmaster Jacket---HandCut Radio is produced by Birch, a London based creative agency. Our theme music is by Joe Boyd.
Season Four Teaser

Season Four Teaser

2020-10-2102:27

Aleks introduces HandCut Radio Season Four, a season dedicated to young British designers, brands and creatives. From our favourite vintage dealer to the bespoke tailors who’ve contemporised the suit, these are some of the freshest takes on menswear within the UK.The season launches on 24th October at 6am GMT. Set your watches and we'll see you then. Follow us on Instagram at @handcutradio in the meantime.
James Sleater is the co-founder of Cad & The Dandy, a modern British bespoke tailor with shops on Savile Row, in the City, Stockholm and New York, plus outposts in Washington D.C. and Philadelphia. Cad & The Dandy's winning formula is thoroughly impressive; in a good month the brand cuts around 400 suits, more than most tailors make in a year. We chat to James about what motivated him to found the business, explore why he's fascinated by applying modern business practice to traditional products, and examine how Cad & The Dandy has cornered its market.We recorded this episode just a couple of days before London went into lockdown. It was intended for Season Four, but in a bid to help you enjoy your time at home, we’ve pulled it together as a lockdown bonus episode for you. We hope it provides a welcome distraction.And, while we’ve got you, don’t forget to sign up to our new editorial email, the HandCut Weekly. Visit handcutmedia.com/weekly to subscribe.---Show Notes:James Sleater — Website | Instagram[02:31] Cad & The Dandy[03:29] Peregrine[07:31] Johnstons of Elgin[14:34] Chittleborough & Morgan[31:52] Prologue, Hong Kong[31:54] Buzz Tang[32:23] Suit Supply Drawstring Trouser[39:30] Götrich 1730---HandCut Radio is produced by Birch, a London based creative agency. Our theme music is by Joe Boyd.
For the final episode in Season Three, Aleks sits down with award-winning British fashion designer, Oli Spencer, who’s two brands, Favourbrook and Oliver Spencer, are both thoroughbred menswear gems. Oli began his career selling waistcoats on Portobello Road in the ‘90s, and has grown his business to half-a-dozen London stores, a buzzing e-commerce offering, and eight drops a year on Mr Porter. He and Aleks talk about his first few years on the ladder, his approach to retail and clothing design, and his focus on sustainability, which has been a big part of the Oliver Spencer brand for the past few years.Permit us to give you one more gentle reminder that if you’ve enjoyed this season, we’d love you to leave us a review below – it makes a huge difference to our visibility and helps more listeners to discover HandCut Radio. Thank you for all your support this season, we’ll be back with Season Four as soon as we can. In the meantime, give us a follow on Instagram @handcutradio, and keep in touch!***HandCut Radio is proud to be sponsored by Thomas Mason, an historic mill that’s been supplying famous designers, shirtmakers and tailors with world class shirting fabrics since 1796.***Show Notes:Oliver Spencer — Website | Instagram[02:40] Favourbrook[04:22] The Wag Club[04:25] Chris Sullivan[04:32] Rebel Rebel: How Mavericks Made the Modern World (Book)[08:29] Four Weddings and a Funeral (Film)[09:24] Farlows, Pall Mall[10:50] Liberty Londo[10:56] Olie Arnold of Mr Porter on HandCut Radi[11:07] Oliver Spencer on Nordstrom, USA[11:34] Favourbrook on The Rake[20:20] Bleue Burnham[30:15] Sainsbury’s TU[31:58] Patagonia[32:02] Nudie Jeans[38:45] Matches Fashion[40:57] The Groucho Club---HandCut Radio is produced by Birch, a London based creative agency. Our theme music is by Joe Boyd.
In the second of our two bonus episodes created in partnership with Thomas Mason, the HandCut team explores the brand’s unique fabric archive filled with over 800 leather-bound fabric catalogues dating to the 18th and 19th centuries, and held in a temperature controlled library by the Albini Group in Italy.In addition, Aleks chats to Maurizio Colnago, Thomas Mason’s head of fabric design, about how this extraordinary archive informs Thomas Mason’s fabric collections today, and he meets with Daniele Arioldi, the CEO of Albini’s spinning division, to learn about some of the rare and precious fibres that Thomas Mason weaves into its luxury shirting fabrics.To get an insight into this remarkable Anglo-Italian heritage brand was a privilege, and we hope that you’ll enjoy this journey into the world of fine shirt fabrics. Do check out our Instagram feed, @handcutradio, for some original behind-the-scenes photography, and some short films we shot during our visit.
This week’s guest is a New York based journalist and author who needs little by way of introduction. The brain behind New York Times best-seller, Men and Style, David Coggins is widely recognised as an intelligent and urbane voice in high-end men’s journalism. His website, The Contender, distills his passions as a writer, covering travel, men’s style, fishing and drinking, and seldom fails to be an entertaining and intelligent read.He talks to Aleks about writing and the process of finding one’s voice, the pair explore David’s own philosophy on menswear and Aleks indulges in a rant about a pet peeve of his in men’s marketing — so stay tuned for that. If you enjoy the episode, please do take a moment to leave us a review on Apple Podcasts. It boosts us up the charts and helps other people to discover the podcast. We really do appreciate the support, and hope you’ll tune in again soon.***HandCut Radio is proud to be sponsored by Thomas Mason, an historic mill that’s been supplying famous designers, shirtmakers and tailors with world class shirting fabrics since 1796.***Show Notes:David Coggins — Website | Instagram[02:15] David Coggins Snr[04:40] Anthony Lane, The New Yorker[05:52] Owen Phillips, Men’s Vogue[06:48] Glenn O’Brien[10:25] Men and Style, Book[14:49] The Contender[15:39] Nick Hornby[30:58] Chittleborough & Morgan[33:40] Brideshead Revisited, Book[33:45] The Great Gatsby, Book[35:31] Men and Manners, Book[38:30] Terry Gilliam[38:33] Stanley Kubrick[38:45] The Smiths---HandCut Radio is produced by Birch, a London based creative agency. Our theme music is by Joe Boyd.
In the first of two dedicated bonus episodes, HandCut partners with the Albini Group in Bergamo, Italy; the shirting mill responsible for protecting and maintaining the Thomas Mason brand today, and for weaving all luxury Thomas Mason fabrics.In this episode, Aleks takes a quick walk through the mill floor and sits down with Head of Communications, Gabriele Camozzi, and Marketing Director, Tim Neckebroeck. The trio discuss Thomas Mason’s relationship with Albini, explore the brand’s heritage and examine how Albini’s joint focus on innovation and sustainability feeds into Thomas Mason’s fabric collections today.It’s always a privilege to visit a manufacturer, particularly one that’s family owned and run, and which employs over 1,400 people, so we hope you enjoy this brief look at one of Italy’s most forward-thinking heritage brands.Keep checking our Instagram feed, @handcutradio, for original behind-the-scenes photography, and some short films we shot during our visit.
What does it take to become a bespoke hat maker today? And what makes a man want to pursue a craft, which is pretty niche, even by the standards of this podcast? That’s what we set out to discover this week, in a sit-down with LA-based hat maker, Cody Wellema, founder of the Wellema Hat Co.Cody has more or less dedicated his life to the noble art of hat making, and his passion for his craft speaks volumes. He’s open, honest and refreshingly forthright. He chats to Aleks about his love of all things vintage, the painstaking process each and every Wellema hat goes through, and the two explore how a beautiful hat can tell the story of a person’s life.As always, we hope you enjoy the episode. Don’t forget to follow us on Instagram @handcutradio for regular updates (and daft pictures of Aleks), and to kindly leave us a review on Apple podcasts if you can.***HandCut Radio is proud to be sponsored by Thomas Mason, an historic mill that’s been supplying famous designers, shirtmakers and tailors with world class shirting fabrics since 1796.***Show Notes:Cody Wellema — Website | Instagram[0:45] Permanent Style Pop-up (2019)[1:44] Brasserie Zédel[39:50] Stòffa on HandCut Radio #018[45:00] Bryceland’s [45:11] Ethan Newton on HandCut Radio #021[46:00] Tie Your Tie, Florence[46:52] Connolly, England[47:08] Crockett & Jones[47:12] Yohei Fukuda[47:26] Cohérence, Japan---HandCut Radio is produced by Birch, a London based creative agency. Our theme music is by Joe Boyd.
This week, Aleks sits down with Andreas Larsson, the creative director of Scandinavian tailoring brand, Berg & Berg, which offers well-dressed men “a contemporary approach to classic style with a Nordic point of view”. We’d not met Andreas before, so we simply wanted to know what this means, and how he approaches his work as a designer and clothing creative.We caught him during Pitti Uomo in January 2020, and grabbed a quick 40 minutes between meetings to learn a little more about his route into menswear, his work for Berg & Berg, and to get his take on why the fashion industry needs to think differently about sustainability today.***HandCut Radio is proud to be sponsored by Thomas Mason, an historic mill that’s been supplying famous designers, shirtmakers and tailors with world class shirting fabrics since 1796.***Show Notes:Andreas Larsson — Instagram | Website[05:10] Gieves & Hawkes[05:36] Berg & Berg[05:47] Vitale Barberis Canonico[26:19] Johnstons of Elgin[27:47] Arnold Trousers by Berg & Berg[28:52] Raglan Coat by Berg & Berg[34:22] Milad Abedi on HandCut Radio---HandCut Radio is produced by Birch, a London based creative agency. Our theme music is by Joe Boyd.
Nick Sullivan is men’s fashion and media heavyweight. The Creative Director of US Esquire has over 25-years of experience in media and in menswear at large – he’s been a senior figure on Esquire’s editorial team for 16 years alone. He’s also one of relatively few journalists who appreciates both classic style and high fashion, and has found space for both throughout his career. His editorial shoots for Esquire are notable for the way in which he mixes global designers and small independents, and the likes of traditional tailoring with streetwear or couture design. Today, as Creative Director, Nick one of Esquire’s magazine’s editorial lynchpins, responsible for helming this bastion of men’s media through a changing landscape and for overseeing much of the magazine’s tone, storytelling and design.During a quick visit to London, Nick speaks to Aleks about where he thinks the media landscape is at, why the influencers he connects with aren’t actually influencers, and why classic style doesn’t stand still.***HandCut Radio is proud to be sponsored by Thomas Mason, an historic mill that’s been supplying famous designers, shirtmakers and tailors with world class shirting fabrics since 1796.***Show Notes:Nick Sullivan — Instagram[01:40] Esquire Magazine[11:29] Hiut Denim[12:50] Monocle Magazine[12:59] L’Etiquette Magazine[13:13] Hole & Corner Magazine[29:26] Hedi Slimane[32:19] Robb Report[32:21] Barbanera---HandCut Radio is produced by Birch, a London based creative agency. Our theme music is by Joe Boyd.
Very few brands out there are as special as Husbands right now. Paris’s chicest tailoring house occupies a unique position in the new community of brands taking root in the French capital. Nicolas founded his boutique in 2012, following over a decade working in law and then communications, and this move into menswear has given him a new lease of life. His approach to clothing is distinctly philosophical; he argues that ‘a suit is not just a suit’, but a tool to empower men to become the very best version of themselves – to be better fathers and husbands, for example.He insists that everything Husbands does is founded in a deep appreciation of culture, and he draws an important distinction between brands that merely ‘sell clothes’ and those which take care to ‘dress people’. We found his take on classic style fascinating, and hope that you will too.***HandCut Radio is proud to be sponsored by Thomas Mason, an historic mill that’s been supplying famous designers, shirtmakers and tailors with world class shirting fabrics since 1796.***Show Notes:Nicolas Gabard — Website | Instagram[11:06] Theorem, Pier Paolo Pasolini (film, 1968)[15:52] Wei Koh[17:05] Helmut Lang[17:06] Martin Margiela[17:07] Dries van Noten[18:49] Tommy Nutter[33:22] Cary Grant[33:27] North by North West (film, 1959)---HandCut Radio is produced by Birch, a London based creative agency. Our theme music is by Joe Boyd.
This week, our guest needs no introduction. Matt Hranek is the founder of the William Brown Project, editor of WM Brown magazine, a creative director, photographer, author of A Man & His Watch and a self-confessed ‘street hustler’, to boot. In other words, he’s about as busy a figure in indie menswear as it gets. Aleks caught up with him a few weeks ago at Pitti Uomo, to talk about his early career in photography, his move from mainstream media to independent publishing, and to contemplate the power of being niche.We hope you enjoy the episode, please do review us if so and give us a follow on Instagram @handcutradio.***HandCut Radio is proud to be sponsored by Thomas Mason, an historic mill that’s been supplying famous designers, shirtmakers and tailors with world class shirting fabrics since 1796.***Show Notes:Matt Hranek | Instagram[03:52] Yolanda Edwards[05:46] St JOHN Restaurant[14:52] Condé Nast Traveler [15:07] Guess Jeans[15:22] ELLE Magazine[20:36] Gourmet Magazine[20:37] Hooks & Bullets Magazine[22:48] New Yorker Magazine[22:49] The Economist Magazine[24:38] A Man & His Watch Book[25:44] Rolex Datejust[25:46] James Bond Rolex Submariner[25:56] Omega Speedmaster[28:44] Levis 501[28:53] Grenfell, England[28:59] Drake’s[35:29] Thom Browne[36:48] Dunhill[38:25] Horst P. Horst---HandCut Radio is produced by Birch, a London based creative agency. Our theme music is by Joe Boyd.
Mr Olie Arnold is a pivotal figure on Mr Porter’s editorial team – and a thoroughly nice chap, to boot. He started his career working on FHM at the height of its powers, and has worked through the media industry’s transition from print to digital with considerable experience in both channels. Today, at Mr Porter, he’s responsible for overseeing much of the platform’s key content and fashion shoots, styling celebrities, producing editorial campaigns and managing a fast-paced fashion department.Olie talks to Aleks about his journey through British men’s media – from twilight era “lads mag” to cutting edge online retailer. The pair also explore some theories as to why Mr Porter is so successful today, discuss the power of storytelling for retailers, and chat through some of Olie’s favourite indie brands of the moment. ***HandCut Radio is proud to be sponsored by Thomas Mason, an historic mill that’s been supplying famous designers, shirtmakers and tailors with world class shirting fabrics since 1796.***Show Notes:Olie Arnold | Instagram[01:27] Mr Porter[03:00] London College of Fashion[04:00] FHM[08:12] Absolutely Fabulous[12:13] The Rake Magazine[15:38] L’Etiquette Magazine[15:43] Oliver Spencer[16:53] Men’s Health Magazine[20:36] Oki-ni[24:43] Paul Croughton on HandCut Radio[32:43] How Japanese Denim is Made Video on Mr Porter[35:42] Off-White[36:07] Incotex[36:26] BODE[37:38] Story MFG[44:10] Mr P.[46:06] Husbands[46:09] Samanamel on HandCut Radio[46:13] Maximilian Mogg---HandCut Radio is produced by Birch, a London based creative agency. Our theme music is by Joe Boyd.
Milad Abedi has to be one of the biggest personalities in European menswear. Young, energetic and fiercely opinionated, the Stockholm based photographer has a clearer view than most of where menswear’s at right now, thanks to his frequent travels shooting throughout Europe and beyond for a mixture of magazines and clothing brands. He took some time out to chat to Aleks about his street style photography, his own personal take on what makes for a great photo, and some of the thorny issues that creatives and brands are experiencing with Instagram today. ***HandCut Radio is proud to be sponsored by Thomas Mason, an historic mill that’s been supplying famous designers, shirtmakers and tailors with world class shirting fabrics since 1796.***Show Notes:Milad Abedi | Instagram[13:40] Spencer Hart[22:48] Sergio Guardì of Barbanera[31:17] 18 East[31:22] Antonio Ciongoli[31:29] Glen Allsop[31:46] Fred Castleberry[32:22] The heist of Dog with Lipstick[32:39] Drake’s[33:58] Samanamel on HandCut Radio[34:04] Stòffa on HandCut Radio[34:07] All Blues[40:23] Jamie Ferguson[40:31] The Rake x Omega[40:48] Orazio Luciano---HandCut Radio is produced by Birch, a London based creative agency. Our theme music is by Joe Boyd.
To kick-start Season Three, we could think of few menswear aficionados better suited than Ethan Newton, co-founder of one of Asia’s coolest indie menswear emporiums, Bryceland’s & Co. Ethan’s reputation within menswear precedes him. Together with his partner, Kenji Cheung, Ethan has created a brand with cult status to indie menswear-heads. Bryceland’s & Co’s diverse collection ranges from mid-century inspired Americana to unique strands of Southern Italian tailoring. Ethan’s passion for clothing is extraordinary, as is his self-assured perspective on what makes menswear special. Tune in for some insight into the founding philosophy of Bryceland’s & Co, Ethan’s own take on where indie menswear’s at, and to hear the two explore Ethan’s own personal mantra: ‘if you like who are, be who you are”. We hope you enjoy.***HandCut Radio is proud to be sponsored by Thomas Mason, an historic mill that’s been supplying famous designers, shirtmakers and tailors with world class shirting fabrics since 1796.***Show Notes:Ethan Newton — Website | Instagram[02:22] Bryceland’s & Co[03:01] Kenji Cheung[03:06] RRL [03:07] The Armoury[09:34] The Rake[10:53] Jimmy Stuart[10:54] Cary Grant[10:54] Gary Cooper[14:08] Saint Crispin’s[16:38] Bryceland's Sawtooth Westerner Denim Shirt[32:08] Adam Rogers[32:08] Adret by Adam Rogers[32:14] Scott Fraser Simpson[32:18] Scott Fraser Simpson Knitwear[32:21] Drake’s---HandCut Radio is produced by Birch, a London based creative agency. Our theme music is by Joe Boyd.
Your first taste of what to expect from our forthcoming third Season. Aleks hints at some of this season’s guests and gives you in the inside track on what to expect from the next 10 weeks.The season launches on 5th February at 6am GMT. Set your watches and we’ll see you then. Follow us on Instagram at @handcutradio in the meantime.
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Comments (1)

Nick Veasey

What a wonderful conversation! They sound like really cool guys, producing some awesome clothing.

Aug 17th
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