The Micro Collector

Ivan Chua started Vario as a small watch strap business after rediscovering his love of watches, eventually turning it into an independent watch brand known for drawing inspiration from different periods of watchmaking history while bringing something original to each design.In this episode of The Micro Collector, Ivan shares his journey from graphic designer to watch entrepreneur, the early crowdfunding struggles that nearly made him give up, and how he developed his approach to creating watches that feel familiar but offer something different.We talk about the fine line between inspiration and copying, the challenges of working with manufacturers to bring unconventional designs to life, and the important role his wife Judy plays in building the business and creating a personal experience for customers. We also discuss the challenges of scaling a small independent watch company and why Vario is exploring new territory as it enters its second decade.If you enjoy the episode, be sure to subscribe for more conversations with the founders, builders, and operators behind independent and microbrand watch companies.Chapters00:00 Intro01:29 Meet Ivan Chua of Vario02:39 Rediscovering watches and starting with straps04:17 From watch straps to designing watches06:21 Making Vario's first watch08:37 The crowdfunding experience that nearly ended Vario09:33 Finding success and going full-time10:37 Why Vario explores different design eras13:48 The fine line between inspiration and copying15:50 The NAVI watch and slowing down time18:11 Pushing the boundaries of watch manufacturing20:30 Building relationships with manufacturers21:26 Taking the leap with Judy's support22:08 The personal touch behind every Vario watch25:11 The challenges of scaling a husband-and-wife business27:23 Celebrating 10 years and looking ahead27:55 Vario's next decade and moving upmarket30:28 Final thoughtsLearn More About VarioWebsite: https://vario.sg/Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/varioeveryday/TikTok: https://www.tiktok.com/@varioeverydayFacebook: https://www.facebook.com/varioeverydayYouTube: https://www.youtube.com/@VARIOeverydayX: https://x.com/varioeverydayPinterest: https://www.pinterest.com/varioeveryday/#VarioWatches #MicrobrandWatches #IndependentWatchmaking #WatchDesign #TheMicroCollector

Alan Tsao started Tsao Baltimore nearly a decade ago with a love of watches, a background in design and marketing, and a lot to learn about actually building a watch company.In this episode of The Micro Collector, Alan shares some of the early failures and lessons that shaped his approach to entrepreneurship, why persistence has mattered so much along the way, and how his ambitions have grown well beyond simply designing and selling watches.We talk about building a brand around Baltimore, licensing and partnerships, the evolution from Tsao Baltimore to Baltimore Watch Company, and the manufacturing, servicing, and watchmaking capabilities Alan is now building for the future.If you enjoy the episode, be sure to subscribe for more conversations with the founders, builders, and operators behind independent and microbrand watch companies.Chapters00:00 Intro01:21 Meet Alan Tsao02:08 From watch collector to founder06:19 The $6,000 prototype failure10:46 How a $100K Kickstarter still lost money14:30 Persistence and the lessons Alan teaches entrepreneurs18:16 Building a hyperlocal brand with universal appeal20:40 The Francis Scott Key Bridge watch24:29 Licensing Old Bay, Orioles, Ravens & Maryland28:57 Tsao Baltimore and Baltimore Watch Company30:45 Why Alan acquired Maryland Watch Works35:35 The after-sales challenge facing microbrands38:18 Building a watch company that can lastLearn More About Tsao Baltimore / Baltimore Watch CompanyWebsite: https://tsaobaltimore.com/Tsao Baltimore Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/tsaobaltimore/Baltimore Watch Company Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/baltimorewatchcompany/Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/tsaobaltimore/X: https://x.com/TsaoBaltimoreYouTube: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCtECwDrci0PAWslgHcynWHgTikTok: https://www.tiktok.com/@baltimorewatchcompany#TsaoBaltimore #BaltimoreWatchCompany #MicrobrandWatches #AmericanWatchmaking #IndependentWatchmaking

Wes Kwok co-founded Nodus with his childhood friend Cullen Chen after the two spent years playing music, building things together, and eventually developing a shared obsession with watches.In this episode of The Micro Collector, Wes shares how that friendship turned into Nodus, what they learned from launching their first watch, and why their ambitions quickly expanded beyond simply building their own brand.We get into Nodus’s broader vision of strengthening the independent watch ecosystem — from developing technology that other brands can use through Nodus Extension, to collaborative projects through Design Lab, and bringing brands and collectors together through the Intersect Watch Show.Wes also shares how Nodus is using AI agents throughout its operations, including identifying warranty issues shortly after a product launches, and gives his perspective on the changing watch manufacturing landscape — why China remains so important, the risks brands need to consider, and why countries like Thailand, India, and Vietnam could play a bigger role in the future.We also discuss why Wes believes it may be easier than ever to start a watch brand but increasingly difficult to grow one into a real company — and what Nodus is working on next as it explores a significantly higher-end level of watchmaking.If you enjoy the episode, be sure to subscribe for more conversations with the founders, builders, and operators behind independent and microbrand watch companies.Chapters00:00 Intro01:20 How Wes and Cullen met06:16 Launching the first Nodus watch09:24 The original vision for Nodus13:01 Why Nodus wanted to help other watch brands17:08 Nodus Extension, Design Lab & Intersect21:23 How the Nodus team operates across multiple businesses23:37 Using AI to run a watch company31:51 China, Thailand & the future of watch manufacturing40:45 Why starting a watch brand is getting easier — and scaling harder43:30 What’s next for NodusLearn More About NodusWebsite: https://www.noduswatches.com/Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/noduswatchesFacebook: https://www.facebook.com/noduswatchesYouTube: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCaY-gUgkmcSOgyE-YjFwddgTikTok: https://www.tiktok.com/@noduswatchesIntersect Watch Show: https://www.intersectwatchshow.com/#noduswatches #intersectwatchshow #microbrandwatches #independentwatchmaking #watchmanufacturing

Guillaume Laidet is one of the key figures behind the modern revivals of Nivada Grenchen and Vulcain, while also co-founding something completely new with SpaceOne.In this episode of The Micro Collector, Guillaume shares his journey from working at Zenith and Jaeger-LeCoultre to launching his first brand, William L. 1985 — and what he learned when that business went from early success to excess inventory, supplier debt, and having to let his team go.We get into how those lessons shaped the revival of Nivada Grenchen, what makes a heritage brand worth bringing back, how collector feedback has influenced product decisions, and when a revived brand earns the right to move beyond its archives.Guillaume also talks about reviving Vulcain, why Excelsior Park proved more difficult, and why he believes independent and microbrand watch companies are gaining ground as the traditional groups continue pushing prices higher.We then dive into SpaceOne — how it came together with independent watchmaker Théo Auffret, how quickly the brand has grown, and the story of a €1.2 million Kickstarter campaign that effectively disappeared overnight.We also discuss what’s coming next for Nivada Grenchen, Vulcain, and SpaceOne.If you enjoy the episode, be sure to subscribe for more conversations with the founders, builders, and operators behind independent and microbrand watch companies.Chapters00:00 Intro01:27 Meet Guillaume Laidet02:37 From vintage watches to Zenith and Jaeger-LeCoultre07:00 Building — and nearly losing — William L. 198510:08 The idea to revive Nivada Grenchen12:06 Why Nivada was a strong revival candidate14:15 Letting collectors help shape the product17:48 Reviving Vulcain and the challenge of Excelsior Park21:08 When does a heritage brand move beyond its archives?23:16 Is there still room for more watch brand revivals?24:18 Why independents are gaining ground on the big groups28:52 How SpaceOne came together33:16 The €1.2M Kickstarter disaster38:17 How the crisis tested the SpaceOne partnership40:00 What comes next for Nivada, Vulcain & SpaceOneLearn More About Nivada GrenchenWebsite: https://nivadagrenchenofficial.com/Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/nivadawatches/Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/NivadaGrenchenOfficial/TikTok: https://www.tiktok.com/@nivada.grenchenLearn More About VulcainWebsite: https://vulcain.ch/Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/vulcain_watches/Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/vulcainwatches?_rdc=1&_rdr#Learn More About SpaceOneWebsite: https://spaceonewatches.com/Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/spaceonewatches/Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/ArgonWatchesTikTok: https://www.tiktok.com/@spaceone.watches#nivadagrenchen #vulcain #spaceonewatches #microbrandwatches #independentwatchmaking

Wolfgang Heinrich is the founder of HEINRICH Watches, a German microbrand inspired by the bold watch design of the 1970s while developing a distinctive identity of its own.In this episode, Wolfgang shares how he got into watches and eventually built HEINRICH around a simple philosophy: create watches with enough character to make you look twice, while still being something you can wear every day.We talk about launching his first watch through Kickstarter, why he later moved away from crowdfunding, and what that taught him about building a direct relationship with customers. We also dive into the evolution of the HEINRICH collection, his design process, unusual materials including stone and American football leather, and how he balances vintage inspiration with creating something original.Wolfgang also explains the importance of German watchmaking to the brand, why he invested in bringing a full-time master watchmaker into the business, and his decision to open a showroom in Stuttgart while remaining focused on a direct-to-consumer model.If you enjoy the episode, subscribe for more conversations with the founders and operators behind today’s microbrand and independent watch companies.Chapters00:00 Introduction01:03 Wolfgang’s Journey Into Watches03:56 Lessons From His First Watch Brand08:23 Creating a Distinctive Design Language11:29 Launching the First Watch on Kickstarter14:04 Moving Beyond Kickstarter21:27 Inside the HEINRICH Collection27:34 Evolving the Design Process32:44 German Watchmaking & Bringing a Watchmaker In-House38:17 Opening a Showroom & Staying Direct-to-Consumer41:55 ClosingLearn More About HEINRICH WatchesWebsite: https://heinrich.watch/Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/heinrichwatchesInstagram: https://www.instagram.com/heinrichwatchesYouTube: https://www.youtube.com/@WolfgangHeinrich#heinrichwatches #microbrandwatches #germanwatches #independentwatchmaking #watchdesign