The Gastronomad Podcast

Mike and Amira check in from a sidewalk table in Catania, Sicily, over a bottle of Nerello Mascalese at Il Calice dei Grulli — a “wine bar” that’s really one of the best restaurants in town. Plus: a Milwaukee wedding that stunned them, the true story of Castello Ursino and the 1669 lava flow, Ryanair as ritual humiliation, and why it’s so hard to pay illustrators in Argentina. What’s in this episode* A restaurant recommendation. Il Calice dei Grulli, an enoteca siculo-toscana on Via Antonino di Sangiuliano, about a ten-minute walk from Catania’s historic center — described as off the tourist path, organic/natural wine only, and “by far the best restaurant” they’ve been to in Catania apart from a couple of Michelin-level places.* A wine lesson, accidentally. Nerello Mascalese, the red grape that loves Etna’s volcanic soil — and the novelty of drinking one grown elsewhere.* The ordering technique. Not a wine list, a brief: “I don’t care if it’s white, red, orange, or sparkling. I want something inexpensive, organic, and great, that you love.”* A work thesis. “I’m not bad at vacationing, I’m just really good at choosing an office.” Sixteen-hour days, four time zones, a phone at the wedding table for work and never for Instagram.* A wedding report. A small, intimate wedding outside Milwaukee for Charles and Anna, friends met through Gastronomad experiences and now family, including the bride and groom’s family and friends, some of whom flew all the way from Germany.* A Milwaukee food surprise. A Parisian bakery-restaurant that matches the staging of a Paris sidewalk café and beats the execution — plus a wedding-reception restaurant serving fresh-truffle pasta properly al dente, and an Italian kitchen that cooks a different region of Italy each season.* Sicilian trivia with teeth. Castello Ursino, built 1239–1250 under Frederick II, once stood on a cliff over the sea; the 1669 eruption of Etna filled its moat with lava and left it roughly a kilometer inland. Their apartment sits on that same flow.* Travel reality. Three flights, one very empty plane, upgrades only when free — and a properly exasperated anatomy of Ryanair.* A process note on the book. Why the cover is being illustrated by a human in Argentina, and why the payment was harder than the art.tagsSicily · Catania · Etna · natural wine · Nerello Mascalese · Il Calice dei Grulli · Castello Ursino · Milwaukee · Oaxaca · Gastronomad experiences · travel and work · slow food · no-AI creativity This is a public episode. If you would like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit gastronomad.substack.com

Join us as we share stories from a recent road trip through New England, including a wedding in a historic mansion, local food and drink, and reflections on travel and history. We explore the charm of New England towns, the significance of cultural traditions, and the joys of spontaneous adventures.KeywordsNew England, road trip, wedding, travel, history, local food, cultural traditions, spontaneous adventuresKey Topics* New England road trip experiences* Wedding in a historic mansion on the Hudson River* Cultural traditions in wedding ceremonies* Travel reflections and local food experiences* Historical insights into Sicily and Greek influence in the regionChapters00:00 Introduction to the New England Road Trip02:07 Driving through Fall Colors and Small Town Charm03:52 Wedding in a Mansion on the Hudson River05:52 Celebrating with Friends and Family08:12 Local Food and Drink Experiences09:57 Reflections on Travel and History12:11 The Sicilian Experience and Volcano Eruption13:47 Historical Insights into Greek and Roman Influence15:55 The Joy of Writing and Sharing Stories17:54 Travel in the US versus International Travel19:47 Cultural Observations and Personal Reflections21:55 Future Travel Plans and Adventures This is a public episode. If you would like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit gastronomad.substack.com

Join us as we explore the rich history and culture of Ortigia, Sicily, including its ancient Greek ruins, unique barber shops, and local experiences. Discover how history, culture, and personal stories intertwine in this vibrant Italian town.Keywords Ortigia, Sicily, Greek ruins, barber shops, travel, history, culture, Mediterranean, Italian towns, ancient architectureKey Topics* History of Ortigia and its Greek ruins* The story of the Liberty barber shop and its history* Cultural layers in Sicilian architecture* Personal stories of local artisans and visitors* Experiencing local life and hidden gems in OrtigiaSound Bites* “Liberty in the name reflects Art Nouveau design”* “The Greek temple was built after a major victory over the Phoenicians”* “They built around the old structures, not on top of them”Chapters00:00 Introduction to Ortigia and its historical significance02:03 The unique barber shop with a history dating back to 189503:52 The story of the Liberty barber and its Art Nouveau style07:00 Exploring the Temple of Apollo and ancient Greek architecture09:54 The layered history of Sicilian sites and their cultural significance11:51 Comparing Ortigia with other historic sites in Sicily and Spain15:02 Local experiences, food, and the charm of small Sicilian towns18:01 Upcoming plans and adventures in New England and beyond20:01 Reflections on history, culture, and personal discoveries in Sicily This is a public episode. If you would like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit gastronomad.substack.com

JOIN US as we explore the rich volcanic soil of Mount Etna, its unique microclimates, and the resilient people behind Sicily’s extraordinary wines and cuisine. Discover how history, geology, and culture intertwine to create a truly one-of-a-kind experience.KeywordsSicily, Mount Etna, wine, microclimates, volcanic soil, Sicilian cuisine, resilience, organic farming, natural wines, terroirKey Topics* Mount Etna’s volcanic soil and its impact on wine* Microclimates within the Etna DOC and their influence on vineyards* History of phylloxera and native vines in Sicily* The resilience and culture of Sicilian farmers and winemakers* The diversity of Sicilian food and wine, shaped by history and geographyChapters00:00 Introduction to the volcanic landscape of Mount Etna00:07 The unique microclimates of the Etna wine region00:10 History of phylloxera and native vines in Sicily00:41 The influence of Mount Etna on local agriculture and cuisine00:43 The resilience of Sicilian farmers and winemakers00:44 Experiencing Sicilian food and natural wines01:01 The cultural diversity within Sicily01:28 The impact of climate change on Sicilian agriculture01:35 The awe-inspiring power of Mount Etna01:58 Personal reflections and the sense of belonging in SicilyLinksThe Gastronomad websiteThe Gastronomad Experience InstagramAmira’s InstagramAmira’s ‘The Art of Serendipity’ SubstackMike’s ‘Machine Society’ SubstackMike’s Computerworld columnMike’s InstagramMike’s ‘Superintelligent’ podcast This is a public episode. If you would like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit gastronomad.substack.com

We’re back in the UK and back in the Cotswolds recording from a pub this time in Marlborough. We chit chat about our glorious time spent catching up with family and friends in California, talk about this week’s adventures in England, and look ahead to the weeks in Sicily to come. KeywordsGastronomad, food, travel, UK, pub, the Cotswolds, California, wine, SicilyLinksThe Gastronomad websiteThe Gastronomad Experience InstagramAmira’s InstagramAmira’s ‘The Art of Serendipity’ SubstackMike’s ‘Machine Society’ SubstackMike’s Computerworld columnMike’s InstagramMike’s ‘Superintelligent’ podcast This is a public episode. If you would like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit gastronomad.substack.com