DiscoverBAFFLE DAYS - Australian ClimbingBuster Martin - Action Directe, finger injury recovery, pocket training, coaching and more
Buster Martin - Action Directe, finger injury recovery, pocket training, coaching and more

Buster Martin - Action Directe, finger injury recovery, pocket training, coaching and more

Update: 2023-06-14
Share

Description

Buster has been climbing since childhood. He competed for his country as a junior competitor where he made European Championship finals, World Cup semi finals and numerous domestic comp victories. Buster's main focus now is rock climbing. He's the second brit to climb 9a+/36 with his ascent of First Ley in Margalef. Buster has also climbed countless routes in the 8c+-9a 34-35 range including the historic test pieces Hubble and Action Directe.

In this chat, we dig into Buster's preparation for Action Directe, the worlds first 9a/35. His pocket training, finger injury recovery and just a bit of froth about the route overall. We also talk about his coaching business, his approach to coaching and how it all works. When we spoke with Buster, he was preparing for a trip to Spain to try a crazy 9b/37 called First Round First Minute, put up by Chris Sharma in 2011.

Buster started Kaizen Climbing, his coaching business, to share his knowledge and psyche for training with as many people as he could. If you're interested in connecting with Kaizen, head to their website and give them a follow on instagram. There really is some awesome information in there.

Video of Buster on Action Directe

Video of Buster on Hubble

Buster's instagram

Baffle Days' favourite training books can be found here

For 15% off Awesome Woodys products use BAFFLEDAYS at checkout. Help you and help the show :)

Comments 
00:00
00:00
x

0.5x

0.8x

1.0x

1.25x

1.5x

2.0x

3.0x

Sleep Timer

Off

End of Episode

5 Minutes

10 Minutes

15 Minutes

30 Minutes

45 Minutes

60 Minutes

120 Minutes

Buster Martin - Action Directe, finger injury recovery, pocket training, coaching and more

Buster Martin - Action Directe, finger injury recovery, pocket training, coaching and more

Buster Martin, Tom O'Halloran, Amanda Watts