Confectionology (CANDY) with Susan Benjamin
Digest
This podcast episode delves into the captivating history of candy, guided by the expertise of Susan Benjamin, a renowned candy historian and confectiologist. The episode traces the evolution of candy from its prehistoric roots, exploring the use of ingredients like honey, waxes, and cane sugar, and highlighting the cultural significance of each. Susan examines the role of candy as a symbol of fun, love, and economic empowerment, particularly for working-class children. She also delves into the controversial history of candy and sugar, addressing accusations of its link to crime and hyperactivity, and exploring the complex relationship between sugar consumption and social structures. The episode further explores the diverse world of candy, classifying different types by purpose and consumer demographics, and delving into the history of specific candies like hard candies, sugar plums, Turkish delights, and gummy bears. Susan reveals the surprising sexual history of candy, highlighting how certain candies were associated with seduction and romantic gestures in Victorian culture. The episode also explores the history of chocolate, its association with virility and stamina, and the myth surrounding Montezuma's alleged consumption of chocolate to placate his wives. Susan discusses the role of sugar as a preservative in ancient times, highlighting the history of glassy candy and its connection to fruitcake. The episode examines the impact of Prohibition on the candy industry, highlighting how candy makers adapted by creating candies named after popular cocktails and how rock candy played a crucial role in alcohol fermentation. Susan discusses the history of candy cigarettes, their popularity among children as a proxy for adult behavior, and the evolution of these candies from chocolate cigarettes to bubblegum cigarettes. The episode traces the history of candy bars, from their use as rations during wartime to their evolution into energy bars, highlighting the versatility of candy and the blurring lines between candy and "healthy" food. Susan discusses the shift from cane sugar to corn syrup, exploring the reasons behind this change and the controversies surrounding high fructose corn syrup. The episode examines the abolitionist movement's "free products" movement, which boycotted goods made with slave labor, including cane sugar, and explores the alternative sugar sources used during this time. Susan delves into the history of candy corn, its origins as a treat marketed to rural populations, and its surprising connection to chicken feed. The episode discusses the polarizing nature of circus peanuts, exploring their history, their connection to Lucky Charms cereal, and the reasons behind their divisive flavor profile. Susan explores the history of Marzipan, its ancient origins in Roman culture, its association with almonds and fertility, and its modern-day use in sculpting. The episode discusses the history of sour candy, its medicinal uses, the science behind its sourness, and the potential risks of excessive consumption. Susan discusses the popularity of chocolate worldwide, highlighting the dominance of Hershey chocolate and debunking the myth surrounding Milton Hershey's supposed invention of chocolate. The episode reveals the real story of Milton Hershey, highlighting his dysfunctional family, his business acumen, and his philanthropic efforts, including the establishment of an orphanage and boarding school. Susan explores the history of whorehound candy, its medicinal uses, its bitter flavor profile, and the reasons behind its decline in popularity. The episode discusses the origins of blue raspberry flavor, highlighting its artificial nature and the marketing strategies used to associate the color blue with this flavor. Susan explores the history of licorice, its medicinal uses, its popularity in different cultures, and the reasons behind its divisive flavor profile. The episode debunks the myth that saltwater taffy contains salt. The origin story of the name is explained, tracing back to a candy company on the Atlantic City boardwalk that was flooded during a storm. The name stuck, despite the lack of actual salt in the candy. The episode discusses the discontinuation and subsequent return of popular candies like Atomic Fireballs and Jawbreakers. The reasons behind these changes are explored, including economic factors and the rise of new candy trends. The episode delves into the science behind sugar-free candy, explaining the use of sugar alcohols and their impact on the body. The potential downsides of sugar alcohols, including digestive issues and potential cardiovascular risks, are discussed. The episode addresses the question of finding healthier candy options. The speaker emphasizes the importance of moderation and suggests that candy should be enjoyed in a ceremonial way, rather than as a regular part of one's diet. The speaker shares their personal approach to Halloween candy, opting to avoid giving out candy altogether due to the abundance of treats available in their neighborhood. They also discuss the challenges of choosing candy for trick-or-treaters, especially as a candy expert. The speaker reflects on the best and worst aspects of their job as a candy researcher. They highlight the joy of sharing candy stories and connecting with people through their passion for candy. However, they also acknowledge the challenges of dealing with repetitive questions and the need to constantly find new and interesting stories to tell.
Outlines
Candy History: From Ancient Origins to Modern-Day Controversies
This episode explores the fascinating history of candy, from its ancient origins to modern-day controversies, revealing surprising facts and debunking common myths about this beloved treat.
Introducing Susan Benjamin, Confectiologist
The host introduces Susan Benjamin, a candy historian and confectiologist, highlighting her expertise and publications.
The Origins of Candy: From Prehistoric Chewing Gum to Cane Sugar
Susan discusses the origins of candy, tracing its history from prehistoric chewing gum to the rise of cane sugar and the development of taffy.
The Evolution of Candy Ingredients: From Honey to Corn Syrup
Susan explores the evolution of candy ingredients, from honey and waxes to cane sugar and corn syrup, highlighting the cultural significance of each ingredient.
Candy as a Cultural Phenomenon: Symbolism and Empowerment
Susan delves into the cultural significance of candy, discussing its role as a symbol of fun, love, and economic empowerment, particularly for working-class children.
The Controversial History of Candy and Sugar: Accusations and Complexities
Susan examines the historical controversies surrounding candy and sugar, including accusations of its link to crime and hyperactivity, and explores the complex relationship between sugar consumption and social structures.
Classifying Candy: From Hard Candies to Gummy Bears
Susan discusses the different types of candy, classifying them by purpose and consumer demographics, and delves into the history of specific candies like hard candies, sugar plums, and Turkish delights.
The Sexual History of Candy: Seduction and Romantic Gestures
Susan reveals the surprising sexual history of candy, highlighting how certain candies, like truffles, were associated with seduction and romantic gestures in Victorian culture.
Chocolate: Food of the Gods and Its Sexual Power
Susan explores the history of chocolate, its association with virility and stamina, and the myth surrounding Montezuma's alleged consumption of chocolate to placate his wives.
Candy as a Preservative: Ancient Uses and Fermentation
Susan discusses the role of sugar as a preservative in ancient times, highlighting the history of glassy candy and its connection to fruitcake.
Candy and Prohibition: Innovation and Adaptation
Susan explores the impact of Prohibition on the candy industry, highlighting how candy makers adapted by creating candies named after popular cocktails and how rock candy played a crucial role in alcohol fermentation.
Candy Cigarettes: A Reflection of Adult Culture
Susan discusses the history of candy cigarettes, their popularity among children as a proxy for adult behavior, and the evolution of these candies from chocolate cigarettes to bubblegum cigarettes.
The Rise of Candy Bars: From Rationing to Energy Bars
Susan traces the history of candy bars, from their use as rations during wartime to their evolution into energy bars, highlighting the versatility of candy and the blurring lines between candy and "healthy" food.
The Sugar Revolution: From Cane Sugar to Corn Syrup
Susan discusses the shift from cane sugar to corn syrup, exploring the reasons behind this change and the controversies surrounding high fructose corn syrup.
The Abolitionist Movement and Sugar Boycotts
Susan examines the abolitionist movement's "free products" movement, which boycotted goods made with slave labor, including cane sugar, and explores the alternative sugar sources used during this time.
Candy Corn: A Controversial Treat with a Surprising History
Susan delves into the history of candy corn, its origins as a treat marketed to rural populations, and its surprising connection to chicken feed.
The Polarizing Nature of Circus Peanuts
Susan discusses the polarizing nature of circus peanuts, exploring their history, their connection to Lucky Charms cereal, and the reasons behind their divisive flavor profile.
Marzipan: A Sweet Treat with Ancient Roots
Susan explores the history of Marzipan, its ancient origins in Roman culture, its association with almonds and fertility, and its modern-day use in sculpting.
The Science of Sour Candy: From Medicinal Uses to Extreme Acidity
Susan discusses the history of sour candy, its medicinal uses, the science behind its sourness, and the potential risks of excessive consumption.
The Most Popular Candy in the World: Chocolate and the Hershey Myth
Susan discusses the popularity of chocolate worldwide, highlighting the dominance of Hershey chocolate and debunking the myth surrounding Milton Hershey's supposed invention of chocolate.
The Real Story of Milton Hershey: A Complex Figure with a Legacy of Good and Bad
Susan reveals the real story of Milton Hershey, highlighting his dysfunctional family, his business acumen, and his philanthropic efforts, including the establishment of an orphanage and boarding school.
The Mystery of Whorehound Candy: A Bitter Flavor with a Medicinal Past
Susan explores the history of whorehound candy, its medicinal uses, its bitter flavor profile, and the reasons behind its decline in popularity.
The Mystery of Blue Raspberry: A Flavor That Doesn't Exist in Nature
Susan discusses the origins of blue raspberry flavor, highlighting its artificial nature and the marketing strategies used to associate the color blue with this flavor.
The Divisive Delight of Licorice: A Flavor with a Rich History and a Polarizing Profile
Susan explores the history of licorice, its medicinal uses, its popularity in different cultures, and the reasons behind its divisive flavor profile.
The Truth About Saltwater Taffy
This chapter debunks the myth that saltwater taffy contains salt. The origin story of the name is explained, tracing back to a candy company on the Atlantic City boardwalk that was flooded during a storm. The name stuck, despite the lack of actual salt in the candy.
The Rise and Fall of Candy: Discontinuations and Returns
The chapter discusses the discontinuation and subsequent return of popular candies like Atomic Fireballs and Jawbreakers. The reasons behind these changes are explored, including economic factors and the rise of new candy trends.
The Science of Sugar-Free Candy: Sugar Alcohols and Their Impact
This chapter delves into the science behind sugar-free candy, explaining the use of sugar alcohols and their impact on the body. The potential downsides of sugar alcohols, including digestive issues and potential cardiovascular risks, are discussed.
Moderation and Candy Consumption: Finding Healthier Options
The chapter addresses the question of finding healthier candy options. The speaker emphasizes the importance of moderation and suggests that candy should be enjoyed in a ceremonial way, rather than as a regular part of one's diet.
Halloween Candy Choices: A Candy Expert's Perspective
The speaker shares their personal approach to Halloween candy, opting to avoid giving out candy altogether due to the abundance of treats available in their neighborhood. They also discuss the challenges of choosing candy for trick-or-treaters, especially as a candy expert.
The Joys and Challenges of Candy Research
The speaker reflects on the best and worst aspects of their job as a candy researcher. They highlight the joy of sharing candy stories and connecting with people through their passion for candy. However, they also acknowledge the challenges of dealing with repetitive questions and the need to constantly find new and interesting stories to tell.
Keywords
Confectiologist
A confectioner who specializes in the history, science, and art of candy making. They are experts in the origins, ingredients, and cultural significance of various candies.
Sugar Plums
Small, oval-shaped hard candies that were popular in the 14th and 15th centuries. They were often used as a digestive aid and breath freshener.
Turkish Delights
A type of jelly candy that originated in Turkey. They are typically flavored with rose, almond, and pistachio, and have a chewy texture.
Gummy Bears
A type of gummy candy that originated in Germany. They are typically flavored with fruit and have a chewy texture.
High Fructose Corn Syrup
A type of corn syrup that has been chemically converted to contain a higher percentage of fructose. It is often used as a sweetener in processed foods and beverages.
Free Products Movement
A movement during the abolitionist era that boycotted goods made with slave labor, including cane sugar. The movement aimed to make slavery economically unsustainable.
Sour Sanding
A process used to create sour candies by coating them with a mixture of citric or tartaric acid and sugar. This creates a tart and puckering sensation.
Warheads Sour Spray
A type of sour candy that is known for its extreme acidity. It is often used as a weapon against nausea and anxiety.
Licorice Root
The root of the licorice plant, which has a distinctive sweet and slightly bitter flavor. It has been used for centuries as a medicine, flavoring agent, and candy.
Salmiaki
A type of salty licorice that is popular in Scandinavia and Western Europe. It is known for its strong salty flavor and is often considered an acquired taste.
Q&A
What are some of the misconceptions about the history of candy?
There are many misconceptions about the history of candy, such as the belief that all candy originated in Europe or that it was always primarily a sweet treat. In reality, candy has a long and diverse history, with origins in various cultures and uses beyond simply sweetness.
How did candy become a symbol of economic empowerment for working-class children?
Candy became a symbol of economic empowerment for working-class children because it was affordable and accessible to them. This allowed them to participate in the economy and feel a sense of agency, which was particularly significant during a time when they often lacked other opportunities for economic independence.
What are some of the health concerns associated with high fructose corn syrup?
High fructose corn syrup has been linked to various health concerns, including metabolic syndrome, asthma, and the growth of colorectal tumors. While research is ongoing, overconsumption of all sugars, including fructose, is generally considered detrimental to health.
Why is blue raspberry flavor so popular, even though it doesn't exist in nature?
Blue raspberry flavor is popular because of the marketing strategies used to associate the color blue with this flavor. This association, combined with the use of artificial flavors and smells, creates a sensory experience that is appealing to consumers, even though it doesn't reflect the actual taste of a raspberry.
What are some of the reasons behind the decline in popularity of licorice?
The decline in popularity of licorice can be attributed to several factors, including the changing tastes of consumers, the limited availability of authentic licorice root, and the increasing preference for sweeter flavors.
Why is saltwater taffy called saltwater taffy if it doesn't contain salt?
The name originated from a story about a candy company in Atlantic City that was flooded during a storm. The taffy was drenched in saltwater, and the name stuck even though the candy itself doesn't contain salt.
What are sugar alcohols and why are they used in sugar-free candy?
Sugar alcohols are sugar substitutes that provide sweetness without the calories of sugar. They are typically manufactured from potato starch and are often found in sugar-free candy. However, they can cause digestive issues and may have potential cardiovascular risks.
What are some of the challenges of being a candy researcher?
One challenge is dealing with repetitive questions about the history of candy. Another challenge is finding new and interesting stories to tell about candy, as many of the most popular candies have well-known histories.
What is your advice for people who are trying to moderate their sugar intake?
The speaker suggests enjoying candy in a ceremonial way, rather than as a regular part of one's diet. They recommend choosing a candy that you really like and enjoying it in moderation, knowing that you won't be eating it every day.
Show Notes
Licorice opinions! War chocolate! Candy corn origins, circus peanut secrets, the sourest sourballs, and your great aunt’s purse. Stay until the very end for the biggest shocked laugh I have ever had on this show. The incredibly charming author, journalist, candy historian, and Confectiologist Susan Benjamin chats about everything from apothecary origin stories, ethnobotany, having horehound on hand, the warheads that could save you, vegan candy controversy, sugar sources from beets to corn, Turkish temptations, Roman flim-flam, marzipan mini-sculptures, sugar plum ballets, what she gives out for Halloween candy. and the best way to enjoy treats if you're trying to stay healthy. An absolute instant classic.
Visit Susan Benjamin’s historic candy company True Treats
Buy Susan’s latest book, Fun Foods of America: Outrageous Delights, Celebrated Brands, and Iconic Recipes, on Amazon or Bookshop.org
A donation went to Animal Welfare Society of Jefferson County
More episode sources and links
Smologies (short, classroom-safe) episodes
Other episodes you may enjoy: Gustology (TASTE), Molecular Neurobiology (BRAIN CHEMICALS), Carobology (NOT-CHOCOLATE TREES), Glycobiology (CARBS), Diabetology (BLOOD SUGAR), Melittology (BEES), Native Melittology (INDIGENOUS BEES), Columbidology (PIGEONS? YES), Felinology (CATS), Attention-Deficit Neuropsychology (ADHD), FIELD TRIP: My Butt, a Colonoscopy Ride Along & How-To, Nephology (CLOUDS)
Transcripts and bleeped episodes
Become a patron of Ologies for as little as a buck a month
OlogiesMerch.com has hats, shirts, hoodies, totes!
Follow @Ologies on Instagram and X
Follow @AlieWard on Instagram and X
Editing by Mercedes Maitland of Maitland Audio Productions and Jacob Chaffee
Managing Director: Susan Hale
Scheduling Producer: Noel Dilworth
Transcripts by Aveline Malek
Website by Kelly R. Dwyer
Theme song by Nick Thorburn