That's Not Real Climbing: Ep 32: Andy McVittie - Evolution of Climbing Injuries in Competition
Description
Andy is a climbing PT from Process Physiotherapy. He has been climbing for over 30 years, has coached in the past, and over time has noticed climbing injuries change as the style of climbing has evolved in the competition scene. In this episode, we'll debunk some training and PT myths, talk about the differences between male and female climbers and the types of injuries they face, and we’ll hear about why he thinks fingers are strong enough.
Guest links:
Reference links:
Frontiers | Top of the podium, at what cost? injuries in female international elite climbers
Olympic competition climbing: the beginning of a new era-a narrative review - PubMed
Thank you Mad Rock for sponsoring this episode! Use code 'notrealclimber' for 10% off your ENTIRE order, even if you're a returning customer! https://madrock.com/
Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.com
Follow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast
Join the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zp
Join Patreon for a welcome gift, deleted scenes, and question priority: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast
Or, for a one time donation, buy me a "chalk bag": www.buymeacoffee.com/compclimbing
Timestamps of discussion topics
0:00 - Intro
1:30 - Mad Rock Shoutout!!
2:17 - Holidays
4:22 - Getting into climbing, coaching, PT
11:31 - Evolution of climbing injuries over time
19:24 - Is there any competition move that's too dangerous?
26:59 - Shoulders, hanging and catching one arm moves
36:11 - Fingers are strong enough!!
40:55 - World Cup climbers using KT tape, metal stickers, ice packs
51:14 - MYTH: Climbing ability declines as you age
1:03:00 - MYTH: Injuries happen from specific occurrences
1:07:14 - How injuries show up differently between male and female climbers
1:17:56 - Period cycles and injury
1:27:54 - DISCORD Q: How to deal with DIP issues/synovitis?
1:34:20 - Discord Q: How should an experienced climber integrate more training?
1:38:29 - A PT's new years resolution
1:40:09 - Closing thoughts + where to find Andy
Episode: https://rss.com/podcasts/thatsnotrealclimbing/1821028
Podcast: http://www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.com
United States
