Coldfear

I sit down with Dan Vastyan and Chris Guyer to talk about all things that have happened in the last couple months from Post Holing 10 hours into a climb, a First Ascent, Alaska and Bloody Ice. 

Episode 19 I sit down with Steven Dunnavant about his life renewed. Steven is one of the most stoked and nicest individuals you will ever meet, but we can all learn from his motivation to get fit and eliminate excuses.  He started ice climbing when he weighed over 300 pounds and has lost over 75 pounds over the last year. Ice Climbing lit a fire in his heart and mind. It opened a door to a life he didn't know existed and it has now become a part of him he can not live without. He is a family man, owns a business, and.....lives in Texas. Yes, he is a rare breed a "Texas Ice Climber". Despite having all of the excuses in the world to continue down a path of comfort and bad health, he chooses to take control of his future. I think at many times in this conversation Steven and I were both a bit teary-eyed so I hope you enjoy this conversation. 

Episode 18 is a fun conversation with Alpinist contributor and author Christian Kiefer. He talks about what it's like to be middle-aged and an intermediate climber. His goals and risk tolerance look very different than others. Is he too focused on grades and not the experience? I think he is finding that balance like many others. But we also talk about poop, books, mediocrity, and a ton of other subjects. This is a fun one! 

The lines of authenticity are getting blurred on our social media platforms. Is it okay to photoshop out a toprope and post to social media? How do brands ensure they are working with authentic people and authentic content? I have always believed anything posted on social media should be real, but clearly, others believe social media is an endless fictional movie. Certain people sell their fictional story and content to get contracts with brands. How will this and AI change marketing in the next decade? We dive into all of this. Share and let me know your thoughts! 

Dane is in his early 20s and is quickly capturing the attention of many climbers in the ice and alpine world. I met Dane years ago while he was on a quick trip in the South Fork Valley with a friend. I definitely had no idea a year later he would become my primary partner chasing ice and mixed lines in the region. I could tell early on he was hungry to learn and get strong fast. And that's exactly what he did.  He has gone on to climb several new routes in the local area and in AK and most recently Kyrgzstan.          

I sit down with Dan Vastyan and Christian Baumeister to catch up on life, Vastectomies, Slot Canyons, Grizzly attacks, and Hunting. Pretty much the conversation you would imagine if three Wyoming guys sit down at a table to talk. 

In early August of 2022 Matt Berry found himself rocketing off the Grand Traverse down a glacier on his back. To this day he is still not sure what happened.  The Grand Traverse is one of North America's most iconic climbing traverses which covers one of the most recognized skylines across the Grand Tetons.  Matt and his partner Sean Dunlop sit down with me to tell their story.  Thanks to the local Search and Rescue Team, Sean, and a good helicopter pilot, Matt is nearly recovered a year from the accident.  Lots to learn from this story. You won't take just one GPS communication device into the mountains ever again.  

Scott Johnston and I dive into an Ice Climbing Training conversation. When, how, why and is there a magic workout to get strong? We also talk about supplements and all the new fancy features our smart watches give us these days. This is another super informative conversation with Scott from Evoke Endurance. 

Conrad Anker is one of climbing most influential athletes and activists. If you have met Conrad you have most likely walked away with a smile. He is genuine and gives back to the climbing community in many ways. In this episode, we talk about numerous topics, including what drives him to continue to climb at age 60 and what about the sport that fulfills him currently. He shares alot of advice and what he has learned in his long successful career. 

In order to perform at your best in the mountains no matter your pursuit in them, you need to be fit. I sit down with Dustin, the founder of MTN Tough out of Bozeman, MT. We talk about how backcountry hunting and ice climbing in the mountains are very much alike. We also dive into how he started MTN Tough and how he balances his family life while being an entrepreneur.  I have been using the MTN Tough Workouts for a few years and they are a game changer. The MTN Tough team graciously gave all you listeners a code to use the app free for 30 days. Code is COLDFEAR     

Over the course of 10 years John Frieh made 18 trips to the Alaska range and stood on top of 16 summits. 16 of those trips were Smash and Grab. Meaning he only spent 2-4 days in the range to put up 10 new routes or first winter ascents. He did this all while having a full time job. If you have a full time job and big aspirations in the mountains, this will be a worth while listen. Perhaps there is no need to spend two weeks with your smelliest friends huddled in a tent in the mountains waiting for a weather window?

We all view and react to risk in different ways. I sit down with friends Dan Vastayn, Chris Guyer, and Christian Baumeister to discuss how we deal with Risk. I like to view Risk Tolerance like a bank account, It constantly moves up and down depending on what is going on in your life.  After this conversation, it became obvious to me that we all manage and react to risk in different ways. What works for me may not work for you. We have to find our own path and willingness to engage in risk. But the most dangerous risk tolerance is the one attached to running away from something in your life. Is risk your drug?  

No matter where you are at in your climbing career this conversation will resonate with you. Doug Shepherd has been a long-time friend, mentor, and climbing partner. He was always my first call for taking on big objectives in the mountains. I learned a ton from Doug about climbing when I needed his mentorship the most. Doug was always the most comfortable committed on a big face in the mountains. Doug made a name for himself scratching around Rocky Mountain National Park in the early 2000s while going to school and doing his Postdoc.  After losing several close friends to the mountains, Doug decided to take a pause to evaluate his relationship with climbing. After nearly 3 years of not climbing he made a trip to visit me to throw his tools and sink his toes into the ice. We talk about how it feels to be back climbing and what he learned from taking a step back from his climbing career.       

I sit down with Joe Josephson who has more than likely written an ice climbing guidebook that you have had in your hands or want in your hands.  He started ice climbing in the late 1980s and did the first ascent of Sea Of Vapors and Terminator on the Trophy Wall in Canada. He shares some great stories including taking a 60-foot ice whipper for a TV commercial and a close call while soloing the Grand Central Coulior on Mount Kitchener. Sit down and enjoy the stories and history he has to share! NOTE: There is a slight echo in the recording. Sorry still figuring this out! 

Jack Tackle's climbing first ascents spread around the world. His name is sketched into Alpine history as one of the legends pushing fast and light ascents in the alpine before gear was even light. He is most well-known for his Alaska adventures and incredible storytelling. In this episode, I tap into his 40+ years of climbing knowledge. How is Jack still alive after all that he has done? He shares what he has learned in those years and talks about why he chose to pursue a professional career and a climbing career. Don't miss the story of his partner cutting himself from the rope while hanging in space below him...

Stories of epics and rescues in the mountains. Doug Shepherd and I have climbed together for many years. He and I sit down to talk about some of our more "memorable" experiences. 

Scott Johnston has been the man behind the scenes choreographing training for some of climbing's and running's most elite athletes including Kilian Jornet, Alex Honnold and Steve House. You may not recognize his name but you more than likely recognize his books, Training For The New Alpinism and  Training For The Uphill Athlete. Until recently, he was a co-owner of Uphill Athlete and now owns Evoke Endurance. We dive into the breakup of Uphill Athlete,  the birth of Evoke Endurance, and Scott shares his training framework and lessons from his decades of training experience. This is a long one, but super informative for any athlete looking to elevate their fitness. 

The Slovak Direct is one of the most notable prized routes in the Alaska Range on North Americas tallest peak, Denali 20,300ft. This 9,000 foot face is one alpine climbers dream of. In this episode I sit down with Sam Hennesey, Michael Gardner and Rob Smith after their ground breaking Nascar ascent of the Slovak Direct in 17 Hours and 10 minutes. We dive into their strategy and how they set themselves up physically and mentally execute the climb. 

Partner Dynamics and your mental state while climbing typically change partner to partner. After a recent First Ascent mission with Dan Vastyan and Christian Baumeister we dive into what was going on in their head when things got over their head!  Chris Guyer also joins in the conversation.  

Ryan Vachon and I sit down and talk about how we got started climbing and many of the bad decisions that were made. Ryan talks about his first rope being a clothesline and I talk about my 2 hour first ice lead on the Rigid Designator.