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The Average Climber Podcast
The Average Climber Podcast
Author: Plug Tone Audio | The Average Climber Podcast
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Description
A podcast for the average rock climber featuring the training and nutrition information the everyday climber needs to know. Hosted by Lauren Abernathy, Head Coach and Founder of Good Spray Climbing, and Certified Nutrition Specialist, Caitlin Holmes.
Come to learn about climbing, stay for the goofy antics. You’re in for a good time.
Come to learn about climbing, stay for the goofy antics. You’re in for a good time.
185 Episodes
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Many of the concepts we taught you this season are best learned by example. And who better to provide us with examples than, well, you?
If you have a question or need help with something - there's a good chance someone else has the exact same question. So please, leave us a quick voice memo and you just might be featured on the show!
SUBMIT YOUR VOICE MEMOS HERE:
https://www.speakpipe.com/averageclimberpod
Who's a major hottie and who's not all they're cracked up to be? From sleep and recovery to short-term energy support, we're taking you on a few speed dates so you can get to know your options. Welcome to supplement speed dating, baby. 🔥
Connect with Lauren:
www.goodsprayclimbing.com < for coaching program info!
Apply for 1:1 coaching (now enrolling for Spring!)
https://usv2nrx1n1p.typeform.com/to/vFaAWnov
Connect with Caitlin
Book a clarity call: https://my.practicebetter.io/#/5ee7f9332a982306fcce6ca4/bookings?step=date
www.caitlinholmes.com
If you want to consistency to be your long-time friend, you'll need to become BFFs with this girl as well. So pop this episode into your ears - you're about to meet a woman who's gonna change your life.
It's time to meet consistency's best friend - you'll NEVER guess who she is.
RESOURCES:
1. Red / Yellow / Green Planning: https://www.instagram.com/p/DF5imRCKNUw/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link&igsh=MzRlODBiNWFlZA==
*check out the IG post for the full walk-through
2. THE PIVOT MENU - screenshot this!
https://www.canva.com/design/DAHEaZSduTA/8b8lAAxkq0m2uD2fQtMs3Q/view?utm_content=DAHEaZSduTA&utm_campaign=designshare&utm_medium=link2&utm_source=uniquelinks&utlId=hdce4642b22
3. Implementing Flexible Training Templates: Why and How by Michael C. Zourdos Ph. D., CSCS
4. Colquhoun RJ, Gai CM, Walters J, Brannon AR, Kilpatrick MW, D’agostino DP, Campbell WI. Comparison of powerlifting performance in trained men using traditional and flexible daily undulating periodization. The Journal of Strength & Conditioning Research. 2017 Feb 1;31(2):283-91.
5. McNamara JM, Stearne DJ. Flexible nonlinear periodization in a beginner college weight training class. The Journal of strength & conditioning research. 2010 Aug 1;24(8):2012-7.
Connect with Lauren:
*technically Crew enrollment is CLOSED but if you ask nicely- Lauren might be able to make an exception. Reach out to Lauren here:
www.goodsprayclimbing.com/contact
Apply for 1:1 coaching (now enrolling for Spring!)
https://usv2nrx1n1p.typeform.com/to/vFaAWnov
Connect with Caitlin
Book a clarity call: https://my.practicebetter.io/#/5ee7f9332a982306fcce6ca4/bookings?step=date
www.caitlinholmes.com
The ultimate performance marker of energized climbers: work capacity.
From what it means, how to build it, and how to know if you need more of it - we're teaching you how to make work capacity work for you!
Connect with Lauren
Get details on The Crew [enrollment now open!]
www.goodsprayclimbing.com/the-crew
Apply for 1:1 Coaching
https://usv2nrx1n1p.typeform.com/to/vFaAWnov
Connect with Caitlin
Book a clarity call: https://my.practicebetter.io/#/5ee7f9332a982306fcce6ca4/bookings?step=date
www.caitlinholmes.com
If your nutrition looks good on paper but you're still feeling "blah" - this episode is for you.
We're digging into why "eating enough" doesn't always cut it when it comes to keeping you energized - and we're taking a couple side quests into caffeine and blood sugar while we're at it.
Let's get you off the energy rollercoaster and onto a nice, stable country lane.
Connect with Caitlin
Book a clarity call: https://my.practicebetter.io/#/5ee7f9332a982306fcce6ca4/bookings?step=date
www.caitlinholmes.com
Connect with Lauren
Get on The Crew wait list
https://www.goodsprayclimbing.com/crew-wait-list-march-2026
Apply for 1:1 Coaching
https://usv2nrx1n1p.typeform.com/to/vFaAWnov
Let's get technical AND tactical - this week we're breaking down the most common ways climbers waste energy on the wall. From footwork faux pas to tactics to resting skills - we're giving you some actionable tips to climb more efficiently - so you can climb more in general.
Resources:
Here's the top 10 list and DRILL cheat sheet that goes with this episode [LINK]
Eric Horst blog post on pacing for sport climbing. [LINK]
*also in the last bit of the episode Lauren MEANT to say "omniscient" instead of "omnipotent". WHOOPS.
Connect with Lauren
Get on The Crew wait list
https://www.goodsprayclimbing.com/crew-wait-list-march-2026
Apply for 1:1 Coaching
https://usv2nrx1n1p.typeform.com/to/vFaAWnov
Connect with Caitlin
Book a clarity call: https://my.practicebetter.io/#/5ee7f9332a982306fcce6ca4/bookings?step=date
www.caitlinholmes.com
You don't get better at climbing while you train - you get better when you leave the gym and start recovering. However, it's possible that your recovery strategies aren't helping as much as you think they are. So in this episode, we'll be showing you the top 10 ways you might be sabotaging your recovery (and what you can do about it).
Resources:
Check out Lauren's training plan makeover library
[HERE]
Connect with Lauren
Get on The Crew wait list
https://www.goodsprayclimbing.com/crew-wait-list-march-2026
Apply for 1:1 Coaching
https://usv2nrx1n1p.typeform.com/to/vFaAWnov
Connect with Caitlin
Book a clarity call: https://my.practicebetter.io/#/5ee7f9332a982306fcce6ca4/bookings?step=date
www.caitlinholmes.com
Ever heard someone say "you thoughts become your actions"? Well this week we're bringing you the research to back that up.
Episode 2 is all about the ways your mind is tiring your body. We're educating you on why this happens (and how to stop it)
RESOURCES:
1. Negative emotional state slows down movement speed: behavioral and neural evidence
PMID: 31579576
2. Exploring the impact of psychological capital and work–family conflict on stress regulation and success in competitive athletes
PMID: 41190113
3. Mental Resilience and Mindfulness in Athletes: A Preliminary Study Across Sports and Experience Levels
PMID:41150469
4. Cognitive De-Fusion
https://youtu.be/wxFY0Am9Aj4
5. Tapping resources
Tapping for Anger
Tapping for Anxiety & Stress
Connect with Lauren
Get on The Crew wait list
https://www.goodsprayclimbing.com/crew-wait-list-march-2026
Apply for 1:1 Coaching
https://usv2nrx1n1p.typeform.com/to/vFaAWnov
Connect with Caitlin
Book a clarity call: https://my.practicebetter.io/#/5ee7f9332a982306fcce6ca4/bookings?step=date
https://www.caitlinholmes.com/
Welcome to episode 1 of the first ever FULL SEASON of The Average Climber Podcast. This season we have one simple goal in mind: helping you become the most energized climber you can be.
And that starts with an important question: Are you Energized? Better listen in to find out.
Episodes will release every Thursday. 8 in total!
Here's your episode 1 homework:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1lxJObGIeOjKxXX6L7tNlETDYHYptik0Z/view?usp=sharing
Connect with Lauren
Get on The Crew wait list
https://www.goodsprayclimbing.com/crew-wait-list-march-2026
Apply for 1:1 Coaching
https://usv2nrx1n1p.typeform.com/to/vFaAWnov
Connect with Caitlin
Book a clarity call: https://my.practicebetter.io/#/5ee7f9332a982306fcce6ca4/bookings?step=date
www.caitlinholmes.com
WE'RE BA-AAAACK. And doing something we've never done before:
The first ever SEASON of The Average Climber Podcast.
For our inaugural voyage into the land of Sequential Podcasting - we're taking you on a journey with one goal in mind:
Making you the most energized climber you can be.
From energy-sapping movement habits, to psychological energy leaks, and even blood sugar rollercoasters - we're tackling the issue of energy from all angles.
(Don't worry, there's still PLENTY of completely unnecessary fun-facts)
Episode 1 drops February 6. Find it on YouTube and wherever you get your podcasts.
Welcome to the one episode of the year where we officially prescribe doing less. Join us for a very Average year-in-review, complete with triumphs, what we're each celebrating, and reminders going into the holiday season.
We’re pressing pause for a bit, but we’ll be back in 2026 with more climbing nonsense, hot takes, and unsolicited beta.
In the meantime, our one holiday request is this: please leave us a review!!! If we read your review on the podcast, we'll send you a sticker! And isn't that just merry.
CLAIM YOUR STICKER
What if your holiday season was free of nutrition drama? That's what we want for you, so we're bringing you our top tips on nutrition - holiday season edition. Whether you've got a challenging relationship with sugar cookies or you just hate feeling "off" because of major changes to your diet during the holidays - this episode is for you.
LINKS:
APPLY FOR 1:1 COACHING WITH LAUREN
https://usv2nrx1n1p.typeform.com/to/vFaAWnov
Book an Intro Call with Caitlin!
https://my.practicebetter.io/#/5ee7f9332a982306fcce6ca4/bookings?s=660ad849d02bd34a38dcf798
Join Caitlin's Newsletter
https://mailchi.mp/caitlinholmes/newsletter-bingo-signup
Join Lauren's Newsletter
https://www.goodsprayclimbing.com/training-plan-makeover
Get on the wait list for The Crew!
https://www.goodsprayclimbing.com/crew-wait-list-november-25
GET YOUR STICKER
https://forms.gle/qDenGJTAd5Qmspyz7
Yep. You read that right - we're covering SKI TRAINING on this week's episode. Because we know that for some of you, part of being an average climber is being an average skier too.
KIDDING!!!
Anyway, we are so happy to welcome Ski Coach Shannon Smith to give us the 411 on all things ski training. Shannon worked with alpine ski racing teams for over a decade before pivoting to start her own Ski Coaching business in 2020. Shannon has grown Range Fitness to a full staff of coaches and that has helped thousands of athletes from around the world. We are so lucky to have her on the pod! You're about to ski prep like you never have before.
CONNECT WITH SHANNON!
website: www.rangefitness.com
IG @range.snowfit: https://www.instagram.com/range.snowfit/
For many climbers - the holiday season means more on our plates. More gatherings, more to-dos, more hosting, perhaps more tough feelings, and less time for training. So in this episode we're giving you our top 3 tips for navigating the holiday season with intention and bad-assery.
⚠️ P.S. We're releasing this episode NOW.... because 3 days before December starts is *probably* too late!
LINKS:
APPLY FOR 1:1 COACHING WITH LAUREN
https://usv2nrx1n1p.typeform.com/to/vFaAWnov
Book an Intro Call with Caitlin!
https://my.practicebetter.io/#/5ee7f9332a982306fcce6ca4/bookings?s=660ad849d02bd34a38dcf798
Join Caitlin's Newsletter
https://mailchi.mp/caitlinholmes/newsletter-bingo-signup
Join Lauren's Newsletter
https://www.goodsprayclimbing.com/training-plan-makeover
Get on the wait list for The Crew!
https://www.goodsprayclimbing.com/crew-wait-list-november-25
GET YOUR STICKER
https://forms.gle/qDenGJTAd5Qmspyz7
RESOURCES:
Lauren's Favorite Kettlebell Complexes:
- Turkish Get Up 3 Press Complex (advanced)
https://youtu.be/6jq88rJmFSY
- Swing Press Lunge
https://youtu.be/_kLI-IOL0YQ
- Tres-Cinco Complex
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XBION5kQhJ8
IG REEL - V Point Session 101
https://www.instagram.com/reel/DNn-rKvvMYy/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link&igsh=MzRlODBiNWFlZA==
De-training research:
https://www.strongerbyscience.com/research-spotlight-detraining/
https://www.strongerbyscience.com/detraining/
Rules can make decisions easier. Rules can keep you safe. But rules can also be so rigid that you leave progress on the table. In this episode we're showing you which rules you can break, and why. From performance seasons, to food morality, and when to do what training sessions - if you get worried about doing things "right", this episode is about to bring you some serious relief.
LINKS:
APPLY FOR 1:1 COACHING WITH LAUREN
https://usv2nrx1n1p.typeform.com/to/vFaAWnov
Book an Intro Call with Caitlin!
https://my.practicebetter.io/#/5ee7f9332a982306fcce6ca4/bookings?s=660ad849d02bd34a38dcf798
Join Caitlin's Newsletter
https://mailchi.mp/caitlinholmes/newsletter-bingo-signup
Join Lauren's Newsletter
https://www.goodsprayclimbing.com/training-plan-makeover
Get on the wait list for The Crew!
https://www.goodsprayclimbing.com/crew-wait-list-november-25
GET YOUR STICKER
https://forms.gle/qDenGJTAd5Qmspyz7
If climbing has been feeling a like a box cheez-its that have been in the pantry too long - this episode is for you. Because having a stale relationship with climbing - well, it could be better, ya know? So in this episode we're breaking down four signs that it might be time to pivot your approach.
If this title jumped out at you - that's your first sign that you need to give this a listen.
APPLY FOR 1:1 COACHING WITH LAUREN
https://usv2nrx1n1p.typeform.com/to/vFaAWnov
Join Caitlin's Newsletter
https://mailchi.mp/caitlinholmes/newsletter-bingo-signup
Join Lauren's Newsletter
https://www.goodsprayclimbing.com/training-plan-makeover
Get on the wait list for The Crew!
https://www.goodsprayclimbing.com/crew-wait-list-november-25
APPLY FOR 1:1 COACHING WITH LAUREN
https://usv2nrx1n1p.typeform.com/to/vFaAWnov
GET YOUR STICKER
https://forms.gle/qDenGJTAd5Qmspyz7
Granite has shaped climbing history — from Yosemite to crags around the world. In this episode, we’re joined by coach Kris Hampton of the Power Company Podcast to unpack why granite feels so damn hard, how to get better at it, and what makes it such a cornerstone of climbing.
LINKS + RESOURCES:
Granite Edge from Nature Climbing
https://natureclimbing.com/products/stone-hanger-1?srsltid=AfmBOooMlRoLZuMOTsK6t58u95nNftWMPsn35bbkfmw8g9marvDiJvKy
Footholds - Resistors
https://www.powercompanyclimbing.com/store/p/resistors?aff=11
Wrist Wrench:
https://www.armassassinstrengthshop.com/products/axle-wrench
note from Kris: My favorite is 2 3/8 with the 3 hole bar and standard texture grip. The bar doesn’t fit a regular carabiner but I like the way it rolls better than the d ring version.
Karlos Nasar video - training session overview:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hZsq1rlBsmQ
Check out Kris and the Power Company Team
www.powercompanyclimbing.com
For more information on hangboarding, check out episodes 13 & 14 of this podcast.
_____
Join Caitlin's Newsletter
https://mailchi.mp/caitlinholmes/newsletter-bingo-signup
Join Lauren's Newsletter
https://www.goodsprayclimbing.com/training-plan-makeover
Get on the wait list for The Crew!
https://www.goodsprayclimbing.com/crew-wait-list-november-25
APPLY FOR 1:1 COACHING WITH LAUREN
https://usv2nrx1n1p.typeform.com/to/vFaAWnov
GET YOUR STICKER
https://forms.gle/qDenGJTAd5Qmspyz7
If eating a whole meal at the crag isn't your style, or you feel like energy during big climbing sessions really starts to slip, then you need to listen up.
In this episode, we're giving you a bite-sized lesson in micro-fueling. BON APPETIT! 🤌🏻
Join Caitlin's Newsletter
https://mailchi.mp/caitlinholmes/newsletter-bingo-signup
Join Lauren's Newsletter
https://www.goodsprayclimbing.com/training-plan-makeover
Get on the wait list for The Crew!
https://www.goodsprayclimbing.com/crew-wait-list-november-25
APPLY FOR 1:1 COACHING WITH LAUREN
https://usv2nrx1n1p.typeform.com/to/vFaAWnov
GET YOUR STICKER
https://forms.gle/qDenGJTAd5Qmspyz7
Chelsea Murn is no stranger to solo bouldering. In fact, she was alone in the woods for many of the hardest boulders she's ever done (and she's racked up a few V10s in her day).
Many climbers struggle to get outdoors as often as they'd like - and part of that struggle comes from coordinating with climbing partners.
Enter - SOLO BOULDERING.
In this episode we cover
- the risks you take when bouldering by yourself
- building self-trust
- Chelsea's favorite gear recs
- and more!
RESOURCES:
- Chelsea loves Organic Pads
https://organicclimbing.com/collections/crash-pads
- Lauren + Caitlin are big fans of Send!
https://www.sendclimbing.com/collections/crash-pads
Chelsea on Pretty Hate Machine
https://www.instagram.com/p/DB2EAKUTNcI/?img_index=3&igsh=aGZqd3l5MW50ODh2
_______________________________
Join Caitlin's Newsletter
https://mailchi.mp/caitlinholmes/newsletter-bingo-signup
Join Lauren's Newsletter
https://www.goodsprayclimbing.com/training-plan-makeover
APPLY FOR 1:1 COACHING WITH LAUREN
https://usv2nrx1n1p.typeform.com/to/vFaAWnov
GET YOUR STICKER
https://forms.gle/qDenGJTAd5Qmspyz7
We've got a NEW episode style for you - case studies! Where we talk about real clients making real progress. This week we're talking about Caitlin's client, who was suffering with ulcerative colitis (if you aren't familiar with it - think EXTREME inflammatory gut problems).
We discuss:
- how Caitlin helped Jack reintroduce foods back into his diet
- getting Jack enough energy to be able to train and climb outside again
- how he healed, recovered and climbed his second V9!
Join Caitlin's Newsletter
https://mailchi.mp/caitlinholmes/newsletter-bingo-signup
Join Lauren's Newsletter
https://www.goodsprayclimbing.com/training-plan-makeover
APPLY FOR 1:1 COACHING WITH LAUREN
https://usv2nrx1n1p.typeform.com/to/vFaAWnov
GET YOUR STICKER
https://forms.gle/qDenGJTAd5Qmspyz7




















