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The Average Climber Podcast
The Average Climber Podcast
Author: Plug Tone Audio | The Average Climber Podcast
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Description
A podcast for the average rock climber featuring the training and nutrition information the everyday climber needs to know. Hosted by Lauren Abernathy, Head Coach and Founder of Good Spray Climbing, and Certified Nutrition Specialist, Caitlin Holmes.
Come to learn about climbing, stay for the goofy antics. You’re in for a good time.
Come to learn about climbing, stay for the goofy antics. You’re in for a good time.
174 Episodes
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What if your holiday season was free of nutrition drama? That's what we want for you, so we're bringing you our top tips on nutrition - holiday season edition. Whether you've got a challenging relationship with sugar cookies or you just hate feeling "off" because of major changes to your diet during the holidays - this episode is for you.
LINKS:
APPLY FOR 1:1 COACHING WITH LAUREN
https://usv2nrx1n1p.typeform.com/to/vFaAWnov
Book an Intro Call with Caitlin!
https://my.practicebetter.io/#/5ee7f9332a982306fcce6ca4/bookings?s=660ad849d02bd34a38dcf798
Join Caitlin's Newsletter
https://mailchi.mp/caitlinholmes/newsletter-bingo-signup
Join Lauren's Newsletter
https://www.goodsprayclimbing.com/training-plan-makeover
Get on the wait list for The Crew!
https://www.goodsprayclimbing.com/crew-wait-list-november-25
GET YOUR STICKER
https://forms.gle/qDenGJTAd5Qmspyz7
Yep. You read that right - we're covering SKI TRAINING on this week's episode. Because we know that for some of you, part of being an average climber is being an average skier too.
KIDDING!!!
Anyway, we are so happy to welcome Ski Coach Shannon Smith to give us the 411 on all things ski training. Shannon worked with alpine ski racing teams for over a decade before pivoting to start her own Ski Coaching business in 2020. Shannon has grown Range Fitness to a full staff of coaches and that has helped thousands of athletes from around the world. We are so lucky to have her on the pod! You're about to ski prep like you never have before.
CONNECT WITH SHANNON!
website: www.rangefitness.com
IG @range.snowfit: https://www.instagram.com/range.snowfit/
For many climbers - the holiday season means more on our plates. More gatherings, more to-dos, more hosting, perhaps more tough feelings, and less time for training. So in this episode we're giving you our top 3 tips for navigating the holiday season with intention and bad-assery.
⚠️ P.S. We're releasing this episode NOW.... because 3 days before December starts is *probably* too late!
LINKS:
APPLY FOR 1:1 COACHING WITH LAUREN
https://usv2nrx1n1p.typeform.com/to/vFaAWnov
Book an Intro Call with Caitlin!
https://my.practicebetter.io/#/5ee7f9332a982306fcce6ca4/bookings?s=660ad849d02bd34a38dcf798
Join Caitlin's Newsletter
https://mailchi.mp/caitlinholmes/newsletter-bingo-signup
Join Lauren's Newsletter
https://www.goodsprayclimbing.com/training-plan-makeover
Get on the wait list for The Crew!
https://www.goodsprayclimbing.com/crew-wait-list-november-25
GET YOUR STICKER
https://forms.gle/qDenGJTAd5Qmspyz7
RESOURCES:
Lauren's Favorite Kettlebell Complexes:
- Turkish Get Up 3 Press Complex (advanced)
https://youtu.be/6jq88rJmFSY
- Swing Press Lunge
https://youtu.be/_kLI-IOL0YQ
- Tres-Cinco Complex
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XBION5kQhJ8
IG REEL - V Point Session 101
https://www.instagram.com/reel/DNn-rKvvMYy/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link&igsh=MzRlODBiNWFlZA==
De-training research:
https://www.strongerbyscience.com/research-spotlight-detraining/
https://www.strongerbyscience.com/detraining/
Rules can make decisions easier. Rules can keep you safe. But rules can also be so rigid that you leave progress on the table. In this episode we're showing you which rules you can break, and why. From performance seasons, to food morality, and when to do what training sessions - if you get worried about doing things "right", this episode is about to bring you some serious relief.
LINKS:
APPLY FOR 1:1 COACHING WITH LAUREN
https://usv2nrx1n1p.typeform.com/to/vFaAWnov
Book an Intro Call with Caitlin!
https://my.practicebetter.io/#/5ee7f9332a982306fcce6ca4/bookings?s=660ad849d02bd34a38dcf798
Join Caitlin's Newsletter
https://mailchi.mp/caitlinholmes/newsletter-bingo-signup
Join Lauren's Newsletter
https://www.goodsprayclimbing.com/training-plan-makeover
Get on the wait list for The Crew!
https://www.goodsprayclimbing.com/crew-wait-list-november-25
GET YOUR STICKER
https://forms.gle/qDenGJTAd5Qmspyz7
If climbing has been feeling a like a box cheez-its that have been in the pantry too long - this episode is for you. Because having a stale relationship with climbing - well, it could be better, ya know? So in this episode we're breaking down four signs that it might be time to pivot your approach.
If this title jumped out at you - that's your first sign that you need to give this a listen.
APPLY FOR 1:1 COACHING WITH LAUREN
https://usv2nrx1n1p.typeform.com/to/vFaAWnov
Join Caitlin's Newsletter
https://mailchi.mp/caitlinholmes/newsletter-bingo-signup
Join Lauren's Newsletter
https://www.goodsprayclimbing.com/training-plan-makeover
Get on the wait list for The Crew!
https://www.goodsprayclimbing.com/crew-wait-list-november-25
APPLY FOR 1:1 COACHING WITH LAUREN
https://usv2nrx1n1p.typeform.com/to/vFaAWnov
GET YOUR STICKER
https://forms.gle/qDenGJTAd5Qmspyz7
Granite has shaped climbing history — from Yosemite to crags around the world. In this episode, we’re joined by coach Kris Hampton of the Power Company Podcast to unpack why granite feels so damn hard, how to get better at it, and what makes it such a cornerstone of climbing.
LINKS + RESOURCES:
Granite Edge from Nature Climbing
https://natureclimbing.com/products/stone-hanger-1?srsltid=AfmBOooMlRoLZuMOTsK6t58u95nNftWMPsn35bbkfmw8g9marvDiJvKy
Footholds - Resistors
https://www.powercompanyclimbing.com/store/p/resistors?aff=11
Wrist Wrench:
https://www.armassassinstrengthshop.com/products/axle-wrench
note from Kris: My favorite is 2 3/8 with the 3 hole bar and standard texture grip. The bar doesn’t fit a regular carabiner but I like the way it rolls better than the d ring version.
Karlos Nasar video - training session overview:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hZsq1rlBsmQ
Check out Kris and the Power Company Team
www.powercompanyclimbing.com
For more information on hangboarding, check out episodes 13 & 14 of this podcast.
_____
Join Caitlin's Newsletter
https://mailchi.mp/caitlinholmes/newsletter-bingo-signup
Join Lauren's Newsletter
https://www.goodsprayclimbing.com/training-plan-makeover
Get on the wait list for The Crew!
https://www.goodsprayclimbing.com/crew-wait-list-november-25
APPLY FOR 1:1 COACHING WITH LAUREN
https://usv2nrx1n1p.typeform.com/to/vFaAWnov
GET YOUR STICKER
https://forms.gle/qDenGJTAd5Qmspyz7
If eating a whole meal at the crag isn't your style, or you feel like energy during big climbing sessions really starts to slip, then you need to listen up.
In this episode, we're giving you a bite-sized lesson in micro-fueling. BON APPETIT! 🤌🏻
Join Caitlin's Newsletter
https://mailchi.mp/caitlinholmes/newsletter-bingo-signup
Join Lauren's Newsletter
https://www.goodsprayclimbing.com/training-plan-makeover
Get on the wait list for The Crew!
https://www.goodsprayclimbing.com/crew-wait-list-november-25
APPLY FOR 1:1 COACHING WITH LAUREN
https://usv2nrx1n1p.typeform.com/to/vFaAWnov
GET YOUR STICKER
https://forms.gle/qDenGJTAd5Qmspyz7
Chelsea Murn is no stranger to solo bouldering. In fact, she was alone in the woods for many of the hardest boulders she's ever done (and she's racked up a few V10s in her day).
Many climbers struggle to get outdoors as often as they'd like - and part of that struggle comes from coordinating with climbing partners.
Enter - SOLO BOULDERING.
In this episode we cover
- the risks you take when bouldering by yourself
- building self-trust
- Chelsea's favorite gear recs
- and more!
RESOURCES:
- Chelsea loves Organic Pads
https://organicclimbing.com/collections/crash-pads
- Lauren + Caitlin are big fans of Send!
https://www.sendclimbing.com/collections/crash-pads
Chelsea on Pretty Hate Machine
https://www.instagram.com/p/DB2EAKUTNcI/?img_index=3&igsh=aGZqd3l5MW50ODh2
_______________________________
Join Caitlin's Newsletter
https://mailchi.mp/caitlinholmes/newsletter-bingo-signup
Join Lauren's Newsletter
https://www.goodsprayclimbing.com/training-plan-makeover
APPLY FOR 1:1 COACHING WITH LAUREN
https://usv2nrx1n1p.typeform.com/to/vFaAWnov
GET YOUR STICKER
https://forms.gle/qDenGJTAd5Qmspyz7
We've got a NEW episode style for you - case studies! Where we talk about real clients making real progress. This week we're talking about Caitlin's client, who was suffering with ulcerative colitis (if you aren't familiar with it - think EXTREME inflammatory gut problems).
We discuss:
- how Caitlin helped Jack reintroduce foods back into his diet
- getting Jack enough energy to be able to train and climb outside again
- how he healed, recovered and climbed his second V9!
Join Caitlin's Newsletter
https://mailchi.mp/caitlinholmes/newsletter-bingo-signup
Join Lauren's Newsletter
https://www.goodsprayclimbing.com/training-plan-makeover
APPLY FOR 1:1 COACHING WITH LAUREN
https://usv2nrx1n1p.typeform.com/to/vFaAWnov
GET YOUR STICKER
https://forms.gle/qDenGJTAd5Qmspyz7
Welcome to part 2 of the weekend warrior survival guide. We're bringing you more nutrition planning tips that will blow your mind AND discussing the trap of "fun".
RESOURCES:
How to set climbing trip goals without losing your mind!
https://youtu.be/2PSfLEgiBlE
Join Lauren's Newsletter
https://www.goodsprayclimbing.com/training-plan-makeover
Join Caitlin's Newsletter
https://mailchi.mp/caitlinholmes/newsletter-bingo-signup
APPLY FOR 1:1 COACHING WITH LAUREN
https://usv2nrx1n1p.typeform.com/to/vFaAWnov
GET YOUR STICKER
https://forms.gle/qDenGJTAd5Qmspyz7
You don't have to have a mega-proj and break into a new grade every season. You can have different goals. You can have goals for your nutrition. In this episode we're showing you how to spice up your outdoor climbing with goals that will make you better (and help you have more FUN too).
*P.S. I realized we said "raw egg" in this story, but let it be known that it was in fact a hard boiled egg. Our apologies 🤣
Join Lauren's Newsletter
https://www.goodsprayclimbing.com/training-plan-makeover
Join Caitlin's Newsletter
https://mailchi.mp/caitlinholmes/newsletter-bingo-signup
APPLY FOR 1:1 COACHING WITH LAUREN
https://usv2nrx1n1p.typeform.com/to/vFaAWnov
GET YOUR STICKER
https://forms.gle/qDenGJTAd5Qmspyz7
THE BITCHES ARE BACK. 🎉
We are so excited to kick off September with you - and we know you've got crunchy leaves and crispy temps on the brain. It's about to be weekend climbing trip o'clock and we want you to be ready.
In part 1 of our weekend warrior's survival guide, we're teaching you...
> what you CAN train last-minute vs. what you can't
> changing the way you view your nutrition on a weekend climbing trip (your mind will be BLOWN)
> the *smart* way to flip the switch from indoor mode to your weekend warrior era
And so much more.
LINKS:
JOIN THE CREW
www.goodsprayclimbing.com/the-crew
last day to enroll for September is 9/7!
Join Caitlin's Newsletter
https://mailchi.mp/caitlinholmes/newsletter-bingo-signup
APPLY FOR 1:1 COACHING WITH LAUREN
https://usv2nrx1n1p.typeform.com/to/vFaAWnov
GET YOUR STICKER
https://forms.gle/qDenGJTAd5Qmspyz7
🚨 SPECIAL RELEASE 🚨 LAUREN HERE:
Last September I created a limited release podcast that only went out to about 100 people. I got a lot of great feedback on it. I decided to re-release it during our break. There are four episodes and I'll be releasing them over the next four weeks! This is episode 4. This series is meant to be listened to IN ORDER. So go back to episode 1!
___________________________________________________________________________
In the final episode of this series, we're getting practical. I'm taking you through the top four mistakes climbers make on short, weekend climbing trips. This episode is all about maximizing your time outside. We're talking onsight tactics, improving your weekend schedule and more.
RESOURCES:
Second Try Sending
LINKS:
1. Apply for 1:1 coaching!
2. Join the wait list for The Crew!
FOR ALL THINGS NUTRITION + CAITLIN:
Play nutrition bingo
All of Caitlin's links here!
🚨 SPECIAL RELEASE 🚨 LAUREN HERE:
Last September I created a limited release podcast that only went out to about 100 people. I got a lot of great feedback on it. I decided to re-release it during our break. There are four episodes and I'll be releasing them over the next four weeks! This is episode 3. This series is meant to be listened to IN ORDER. So go back to episode 1!
___________________________________________________________________________
In episode 3 we're highlighting the mental struggles of outdoor climbing. From failure to comparison to not freaking out and "yelling take" - if you fee like your brain is getting in your way instead of helping you along, this episode is for you.
Stay tuned for episode 4, where I'll be teaching you my favorite climbing trip tactics!
LINKS:
1. Apply for 1:1 coaching!
2. Join the wait list for The Crew!
3. Check out Lor's IG post on when to say "take"
4. Learn more about my friend and colleague, Karly Rager from Project Direct!
FOR ALL THINGS NUTRITION + CAITLIN:
Play nutrition bingo
All of Caitlin's links here!
🚨 SPECIAL RELEASE 🚨 LAUREN HERE:
Last September I created a limited release podcast that only went out to about 100 people. I got a lot of great feedback on it. I decided to re-release it during our break. There are four episodes and I'll be releasing them over the next four weeks! This is episode 2. If you haven't listened to episode 1 yet - go back and start at the beginning.
___________________________________________________________________________
Welcome to episode 2, where I'm walking you through the 7 step process of sending a limit level sport climb. (and some things to keep in mind before you dig in) In episode 3, we'll be digging into mental game + tactics for short climbing trips.
LINKS:
1. Apply for 1:1 coaching!
2. Join the wait list for The Crew!
3. Project checklist example
4. Power Company Remix Episode on Failure
5. Low Pointing Resources
SHORT VIDEO
Low pointing Q&A pt 1
Low pointing Q&A pt 2
FOR ALL THINGS NUTRITION + CAITLIN:
Play nutrition bingo
All of Caitlin's links here!
🚨 SPECIAL RELEASE 🚨 LAUREN HERE:
Last September I created a limited release podcast that only went out to about 100 people. I got a lot of great feedback on it. I decided to re-release it during our break. There are four episodes and I'll be releasing them over the next four weeks! This is episode 1. What it takes to win a game.
______________
Welcome to episode 1 of the Sendtember Podcast. We're kicking off this 4 part series with the foundations of 5.12 climbing. We discuss
- physical metrics of climbers who are redpointing 5.12 and beyond
- how to be more intentional with the time you have outside
Stay tuned for episode 2, where we'll be digging into the details of the process of projecting.
SENDSGIVING, IS IT COMING BACK?
While the Sendsgiving Program is presently retired, I do have a couple 1:1 coaching spots available for start dates in July and August.
You can apply for 1:1 coaching here.
LINKS:
1. 1:1 Coaching application.
2. Endurance Training + Work Capacity 101: Average Climber Podcast Episode 32
3. Power Company Climbing Data
4. Power Company Climbing Finger vs. Pull Strength Heat Map
We're on break but that doesn't mean we don't have things we want to share with you.
This week we're highlighting a fellow PlugToner, Mario Stanley. Mario is the host and creator of the Sends and Suffers Podcast. A renaissance man through and through, he is a climber, coach, filmmaker, podcaster, former route setter, advocate for making climbing accessible to all, and so much more. We're thrilled to highlight this episode of Sends and Suffers in our feed.
ABOUT THE EPISODE:
Join us in a conversation with Houston-based coach, Dru Stulb, in this episode of Sends and Suffers. Host Mario Stanley and Dru discuss climbing evolution, coaching, and personal growth. Learn about Dru's journey from enthusiast to coach, the role of climbing coaches, and their impact on the sport.
Discover the joys of coaching, challenges faced, and the rewards of seeing athletes grow. We also discuss the socio-economic challenges facing aspiring climbers, personal struggles, and the role of coaches in shaping expectations and growth.
Finally, learn about unique teaching methods, understanding individual goals, and the power of a transformative community in sport. This episode is a deep dive into the heart of coaching and its influence on shaping the future of climbing culture.
We're taking a break! See you back here in August!
EPISODE TOPIC REQUEST FORM
https://forms.gle/GAinnha1sG8EveUB9
LEARN MORE ABOUT THE CREW
www.goodsprayclimbing.com/the-crew
last day to enroll for July is 6/27!
Join Caitlin's Newsletter
https://mailchi.mp/caitlinholmes/newsletter-bingo-signup
"If I train my endurance enough, I'll never get pumped and I'll never fall"
If that's the way you're approaching your endurance training, this episode is for you. Improving your pumpy climbing abilities has a lot to do with A. your forearm endurance and B. how well you can keep your cool when the pump sets in.
In this episode, we're taking you through a training progression to help you with both the mental and physical aspects of endurance. Get ready for some sweaty palms and bricked forearms!
RESOURCES:
IG reel showing what "level 2" looks like::
https://www.instagram.com/reel/CsJ7EsAgptQ/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link&igsh=MW81aDByZW1jdWowbg==
Rhythm intervals by Climb Strong
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=arH2ouVoaGs
CAMPUS PUNKS:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZexnS9lLdRw
WRIST ROLLER EXAMPLE:
https://www.youtube.com/shorts/ubHDHIHI1EI
WORK WITH US:
PLAY NUTRITION BINGO WITH CAITLIN (newsletter sign-up)
Apply for 1:1 Coaching with Lauren
Join the wait list for the next round of The Crew
Additional Links:
If you've submitted a review that we've read on the show - fill out this form to claim your sticker!
https://forms.gle/yt72CVpfLHY396aW7
Submit your episode ideas to us:
https://docs.google.com/forms/d/e/1FAIpQLSdcmb5M_M4ZyaDqT26cYTKVNNVhyvSW-y-7nCsCps4wAgCAUw/viewform
Support us on Patreon:
https://www.patreon.com/averageclimberpodcast
Learn more about Plug Tone Audio:
www.plugtoneaudio.com
Want to eat better? You have to change your behavior. Follow a training plan? Gotta change your behavior. Stick to a stretching routine? You guessed it - BEHAVIOR CHANGE.
Changing your behavior is the root of everything you want to accomplish. In this episode, we're giving you six killer tips (beyond "Atomic Habits" stuff) to help you change your behaviors for the better.
PLAY NUTRITION BINGO WITH CAITLIN (newsletter sign-up)
Apply for 1:1 Coaching with Lauren
Join the wait list for the next round of The Crew
Additional Links:
If you've submitted a review that we've read on the show - fill out this form to claim your sticker!
https://forms.gle/yt72CVpfLHY396aW7
Submit your episode ideas to us:
https://docs.google.com/forms/d/e/1FAIpQLSdcmb5M_M4ZyaDqT26cYTKVNNVhyvSW-y-7nCsCps4wAgCAUw/viewform
Support us on Patreon:
https://www.patreon.com/averageclimberpodcast
Learn more about Plug Tone Audio:
www.plugtoneaudio.com
RESOURCES + CREATORS TO FOLLOW:
Read Wendy Wood's review on The Psychology of Habit
CTFAR MODEL (credit: Brooke Castillo + BBA Team for showing me this model!)
@karinnordinphd
@jime.ramirez.coaching
RESOURCES FOR COACHES:
Health Mindset Coaching Certification
Coach Shannon Beer
Body Brain Alliance Coach Mentorship























