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The Average Climber Podcast

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A podcast for the average rock climber featuring the training and nutrition information the everyday climber needs to know. Hosted by Lauren Abernathy, Head Coach and Founder of Good Spray Climbing, and Certified Nutrition Specialist, Caitlin Holmes.

Come to learn about climbing, stay for the goofy antics. You’re in for a good time.
182 Episodes
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The ultimate performance marker of energized climbers: work capacity.  From what it means, how to build it, and how to know if you need more of it - we're teaching you how to make work capacity work for you! Connect with Lauren Get details on The Crew [enrollment now open!] www.goodsprayclimbing.com/the-crew Apply for 1:1 Coaching https://usv2nrx1n1p.typeform.com/to/vFaAWnov Connect with Caitlin Book a clarity call: https://my.practicebetter.io/#/5ee7f9332a982306fcce6ca4/bookings?step=date www.caitlinholmes.com
If your nutrition looks good on paper but you're still feeling "blah" - this episode is for you.  We're digging into why "eating enough" doesn't always cut it when it comes to keeping you energized - and we're taking a couple side quests into caffeine and blood sugar while we're at it.  Let's get you off the energy rollercoaster and onto a nice, stable country lane.    Connect with Caitlin Book a clarity call: https://my.practicebetter.io/#/5ee7f9332a982306fcce6ca4/bookings?step=date www.caitlinholmes.com Connect with Lauren Get on The Crew wait list https://www.goodsprayclimbing.com/crew-wait-list-march-2026 Apply for 1:1 Coaching https://usv2nrx1n1p.typeform.com/to/vFaAWnov  
Let's get technical AND tactical - this week we're breaking down the most common ways climbers waste energy on the wall. From footwork faux pas to tactics to resting skills - we're  giving you some actionable tips to climb more efficiently - so you can climb more in general. Resources: Here's the top 10 list and DRILL cheat sheet that goes with this episode [LINK] Eric Horst blog post on pacing for sport climbing. [LINK] *also in the last bit of the episode Lauren MEANT to say "omniscient" instead of "omnipotent". WHOOPS. Connect with Lauren Get on The Crew wait list https://www.goodsprayclimbing.com/crew-wait-list-march-2026 Apply for 1:1 Coaching https://usv2nrx1n1p.typeform.com/to/vFaAWnov Connect with Caitlin Book a clarity call: https://my.practicebetter.io/#/5ee7f9332a982306fcce6ca4/bookings?step=date www.caitlinholmes.com  
You don't get better at climbing while you train - you get better when you leave the gym and start recovering. However, it's possible that your recovery strategies aren't helping as much as you think they are. So in this episode, we'll be showing you the top 10 ways you might be sabotaging your recovery (and what you can do about it).  Resources:  Check out Lauren's training plan makeover library  [HERE] Connect with Lauren Get on The Crew wait list https://www.goodsprayclimbing.com/crew-wait-list-march-2026 Apply for 1:1 Coaching https://usv2nrx1n1p.typeform.com/to/vFaAWnov Connect with Caitlin Book a clarity call: https://my.practicebetter.io/#/5ee7f9332a982306fcce6ca4/bookings?step=date www.caitlinholmes.com  
Ever heard someone say "you thoughts become your actions"? Well this week we're bringing you the research to back that up.  Episode 2 is all about the ways your mind is tiring your body. We're educating you on why this happens (and how to stop it)  RESOURCES:  1. Negative emotional state slows down movement speed: behavioral and neural evidence PMID: 31579576 2. Exploring the impact of psychological capital and work–family conflict on stress regulation and success in competitive athletes PMID: 41190113 3. Mental Resilience and Mindfulness in Athletes: A Preliminary Study Across Sports and Experience Levels PMID:41150469 4. Cognitive De-Fusion https://youtu.be/wxFY0Am9Aj4 5. Tapping resources Tapping for Anger Tapping for Anxiety & Stress Connect with Lauren Get on The Crew wait list https://www.goodsprayclimbing.com/crew-wait-list-march-2026 Apply for 1:1 Coaching https://usv2nrx1n1p.typeform.com/to/vFaAWnov Connect with Caitlin Book a clarity call: https://my.practicebetter.io/#/5ee7f9332a982306fcce6ca4/bookings?step=date https://www.caitlinholmes.com/    
Welcome to episode 1 of the first ever FULL SEASON of The Average Climber Podcast. This season we have one simple goal in mind: helping you become the most energized climber you can be.  And that starts with an important question: Are you Energized? Better listen in to find out.  Episodes will release every Thursday. 8 in total! Here's your episode 1 homework: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1lxJObGIeOjKxXX6L7tNlETDYHYptik0Z/view?usp=sharing Connect with Lauren Get on The Crew wait list https://www.goodsprayclimbing.com/crew-wait-list-march-2026 Apply for 1:1 Coaching https://usv2nrx1n1p.typeform.com/to/vFaAWnov Connect with Caitlin Book a clarity call: https://my.practicebetter.io/#/5ee7f9332a982306fcce6ca4/bookings?step=date www.caitlinholmes.com  
WE'RE BA-AAAACK.  And doing something we've never done before: The first ever SEASON of The Average Climber Podcast.  For our inaugural voyage into the land of Sequential Podcasting - we're taking you on a journey with one goal in mind:  Making you the most energized climber you can be. From energy-sapping movement habits, to psychological energy leaks, and even blood sugar rollercoasters - we're tackling the issue of energy from all angles. (Don't worry, there's still PLENTY of completely unnecessary fun-facts) Episode 1 drops February 6. Find it on YouTube and wherever you get your podcasts.
Welcome to the one episode of the year where we officially prescribe doing less. Join us for a very Average year-in-review, complete with triumphs, what we're each celebrating, and reminders going into the holiday season. We’re pressing pause for a bit, but we’ll be back in 2026 with more climbing nonsense, hot takes, and unsolicited beta. In the meantime, our one holiday request is this: please leave us a review!!! If we read your review on the podcast, we'll send you a sticker! And isn't that just merry.  CLAIM YOUR STICKER
What if your holiday season was free of nutrition drama? That's what we want for you, so we're bringing you our top tips on nutrition - holiday season edition. Whether you've got a challenging relationship with sugar cookies or you just hate feeling "off" because of major changes to your diet during the holidays - this episode is for you. LINKS:  APPLY FOR 1:1 COACHING WITH LAUREN https://usv2nrx1n1p.typeform.com/to/vFaAWnov Book an Intro Call with Caitlin! https://my.practicebetter.io/#/5ee7f9332a982306fcce6ca4/bookings?s=660ad849d02bd34a38dcf798 Join Caitlin's Newsletter https://mailchi.mp/caitlinholmes/newsletter-bingo-signup Join Lauren's Newsletter https://www.goodsprayclimbing.com/training-plan-makeover Get on the wait list for The Crew! https://www.goodsprayclimbing.com/crew-wait-list-november-25 GET YOUR STICKER https://forms.gle/qDenGJTAd5Qmspyz7
Yep. You read that right - we're covering SKI TRAINING on this week's episode. Because we know that for some of you, part of being an average climber is being an average skier too. KIDDING!!! Anyway, we are so happy to welcome Ski Coach Shannon Smith to give us the 411 on all things ski training. Shannon worked with alpine ski racing teams for over a decade before pivoting to start her own Ski Coaching business in 2020. Shannon has grown Range Fitness to a full staff of coaches and that has helped thousands of athletes from around the world. We are so lucky to have her on the pod! You're about to ski prep like you never have before. CONNECT WITH SHANNON! website: www.rangefitness.com IG @range.snowfit: https://www.instagram.com/range.snowfit/  
For many climbers - the holiday season means more on our plates. More gatherings, more to-dos, more hosting, perhaps more tough feelings, and less time for training. So in this episode we're giving you our top 3 tips for navigating the holiday season with intention and bad-assery. ⚠️ P.S. We're releasing this episode NOW.... because 3 days before December starts is *probably* too late! LINKS:  APPLY FOR 1:1 COACHING WITH LAUREN https://usv2nrx1n1p.typeform.com/to/vFaAWnov Book an Intro Call with Caitlin! https://my.practicebetter.io/#/5ee7f9332a982306fcce6ca4/bookings?s=660ad849d02bd34a38dcf798 Join Caitlin's Newsletter https://mailchi.mp/caitlinholmes/newsletter-bingo-signup Join Lauren's Newsletter https://www.goodsprayclimbing.com/training-plan-makeover Get on the wait list for The Crew! https://www.goodsprayclimbing.com/crew-wait-list-november-25 GET YOUR STICKER https://forms.gle/qDenGJTAd5Qmspyz7 RESOURCES: Lauren's Favorite Kettlebell Complexes: - Turkish Get Up 3 Press Complex (advanced) https://youtu.be/6jq88rJmFSY - Swing Press Lunge https://youtu.be/_kLI-IOL0YQ - Tres-Cinco Complex https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XBION5kQhJ8 IG REEL - V Point Session 101 https://www.instagram.com/reel/DNn-rKvvMYy/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link&igsh=MzRlODBiNWFlZA== De-training research: https://www.strongerbyscience.com/research-spotlight-detraining/ https://www.strongerbyscience.com/detraining/  
Rules can make decisions easier. Rules can keep you safe. But rules can also be so rigid that you leave progress on the table. In this episode we're showing you which rules you can break, and why. From performance seasons, to food morality, and when to do what training sessions - if you get worried about doing things "right", this episode is about to bring you some serious relief. LINKS:  APPLY FOR 1:1 COACHING WITH LAUREN https://usv2nrx1n1p.typeform.com/to/vFaAWnov Book an Intro Call with Caitlin! https://my.practicebetter.io/#/5ee7f9332a982306fcce6ca4/bookings?s=660ad849d02bd34a38dcf798 Join Caitlin's Newsletter https://mailchi.mp/caitlinholmes/newsletter-bingo-signup Join Lauren's Newsletter https://www.goodsprayclimbing.com/training-plan-makeover Get on the wait list for The Crew! https://www.goodsprayclimbing.com/crew-wait-list-november-25 GET YOUR STICKER https://forms.gle/qDenGJTAd5Qmspyz7
If climbing has been feeling a like a box cheez-its that have been in the pantry too long - this episode is for you. Because having a stale relationship with climbing - well, it could be better, ya know? So in this episode we're breaking down four signs that it might be time to pivot your approach.  If this title jumped out at you - that's your first sign that you need to give this a listen.  APPLY FOR 1:1 COACHING WITH LAUREN https://usv2nrx1n1p.typeform.com/to/vFaAWnov Join Caitlin's Newsletter https://mailchi.mp/caitlinholmes/newsletter-bingo-signup Join Lauren's Newsletter https://www.goodsprayclimbing.com/training-plan-makeover Get on the wait list for The Crew! https://www.goodsprayclimbing.com/crew-wait-list-november-25 APPLY FOR 1:1 COACHING WITH LAUREN https://usv2nrx1n1p.typeform.com/to/vFaAWnov GET YOUR STICKER https://forms.gle/qDenGJTAd5Qmspyz7
Granite has shaped climbing history — from Yosemite to crags around the world. In this episode, we’re joined by coach Kris Hampton of the Power Company Podcast to unpack why granite feels so damn hard, how to get better at it, and what makes it such a cornerstone of climbing.  LINKS + RESOURCES: Granite Edge from Nature Climbing https://natureclimbing.com/products/stone-hanger-1?srsltid=AfmBOooMlRoLZuMOTsK6t58u95nNftWMPsn35bbkfmw8g9marvDiJvKy Footholds - Resistors https://www.powercompanyclimbing.com/store/p/resistors?aff=11 Wrist Wrench: https://www.armassassinstrengthshop.com/products/axle-wrench note from Kris: My favorite is 2 3/8 with the 3 hole bar and standard texture grip. The bar doesn’t fit a regular carabiner but I like the way it rolls better than the d ring version.   Karlos Nasar video - training session overview:  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hZsq1rlBsmQ Check out Kris and the Power Company Team www.powercompanyclimbing.com For more information on hangboarding, check out episodes 13 & 14 of this podcast. _____ Join Caitlin's Newsletter https://mailchi.mp/caitlinholmes/newsletter-bingo-signup Join Lauren's Newsletter https://www.goodsprayclimbing.com/training-plan-makeover Get on the wait list for The Crew! https://www.goodsprayclimbing.com/crew-wait-list-november-25 APPLY FOR 1:1 COACHING WITH LAUREN https://usv2nrx1n1p.typeform.com/to/vFaAWnov GET YOUR STICKER https://forms.gle/qDenGJTAd5Qmspyz7  
If eating a whole meal at the crag isn't your style, or you feel like energy during big climbing sessions really starts to slip, then you need to listen up. In this episode, we're giving you a bite-sized lesson in micro-fueling. BON APPETIT! 🤌🏻 Join Caitlin's Newsletter https://mailchi.mp/caitlinholmes/newsletter-bingo-signup Join Lauren's Newsletter https://www.goodsprayclimbing.com/training-plan-makeover Get on the wait list for The Crew! https://www.goodsprayclimbing.com/crew-wait-list-november-25 APPLY FOR 1:1 COACHING WITH LAUREN https://usv2nrx1n1p.typeform.com/to/vFaAWnov GET YOUR STICKER https://forms.gle/qDenGJTAd5Qmspyz7
Chelsea Murn is no stranger to solo bouldering. In fact, she was alone in the woods for many of the hardest boulders she's ever done (and she's racked up a few V10s in her day). Many climbers struggle to get outdoors as often as they'd like - and part of that struggle comes from coordinating with climbing partners.  Enter - SOLO BOULDERING.  In this episode we cover - the risks you take when bouldering by yourself - building self-trust - Chelsea's favorite gear recs - and more! RESOURCES:  - Chelsea loves Organic Pads  https://organicclimbing.com/collections/crash-pads - Lauren + Caitlin are big fans of Send! https://www.sendclimbing.com/collections/crash-pads Chelsea on Pretty Hate Machine https://www.instagram.com/p/DB2EAKUTNcI/?img_index=3&igsh=aGZqd3l5MW50ODh2   _______________________________ Join Caitlin's Newsletter https://mailchi.mp/caitlinholmes/newsletter-bingo-signup Join Lauren's Newsletter https://www.goodsprayclimbing.com/training-plan-makeover APPLY FOR 1:1 COACHING WITH LAUREN https://usv2nrx1n1p.typeform.com/to/vFaAWnov GET YOUR STICKER https://forms.gle/qDenGJTAd5Qmspyz7
We've got a NEW episode style for you - case studies! Where we talk about real clients making real progress. This week we're talking about Caitlin's client, who was suffering with ulcerative colitis (if you aren't familiar with it - think EXTREME inflammatory gut problems).  We discuss: - how Caitlin helped Jack reintroduce foods back into his diet - getting Jack enough energy to be able to train and climb outside again - how he healed, recovered and climbed his second V9!  Join Caitlin's Newsletter https://mailchi.mp/caitlinholmes/newsletter-bingo-signup Join Lauren's Newsletter https://www.goodsprayclimbing.com/training-plan-makeover APPLY FOR 1:1 COACHING WITH LAUREN https://usv2nrx1n1p.typeform.com/to/vFaAWnov GET YOUR STICKER https://forms.gle/qDenGJTAd5Qmspyz7
Welcome to part 2 of the weekend warrior survival guide. We're bringing you more nutrition planning tips that will blow your mind AND discussing the trap of "fun".  RESOURCES:  How to set climbing trip goals without losing your mind! https://youtu.be/2PSfLEgiBlE Join Lauren's Newsletter https://www.goodsprayclimbing.com/training-plan-makeover Join Caitlin's Newsletter https://mailchi.mp/caitlinholmes/newsletter-bingo-signup APPLY FOR 1:1 COACHING WITH LAUREN https://usv2nrx1n1p.typeform.com/to/vFaAWnov GET YOUR STICKER https://forms.gle/qDenGJTAd5Qmspyz7    
You don't have to have a mega-proj and break into a new grade every season. You can have different goals. You can have goals for your nutrition. In this episode we're showing you how to spice up your outdoor climbing with goals that will make you better (and help you have more FUN too). *P.S. I realized we said "raw egg" in this story, but let it be known that it was in fact a hard boiled egg. Our apologies 🤣 Join Lauren's Newsletter https://www.goodsprayclimbing.com/training-plan-makeover Join Caitlin's Newsletter https://mailchi.mp/caitlinholmes/newsletter-bingo-signup APPLY FOR 1:1 COACHING WITH LAUREN https://usv2nrx1n1p.typeform.com/to/vFaAWnov GET YOUR STICKER https://forms.gle/qDenGJTAd5Qmspyz7
THE BITCHES ARE BACK. 🎉 We are so excited to kick off September with you - and we know you've got crunchy leaves and crispy temps on the brain. It's about to be weekend climbing trip o'clock and we want you to be ready. In part 1 of our weekend warrior's survival guide, we're teaching you... > what you CAN train last-minute vs. what you can't > changing the way you view your nutrition on a weekend climbing trip (your mind will be BLOWN)  > the *smart* way to flip the switch from indoor mode to your weekend warrior era And so much more. LINKS:  JOIN THE CREW www.goodsprayclimbing.com/the-crew last day to enroll for September is 9/7! Join Caitlin's Newsletter https://mailchi.mp/caitlinholmes/newsletter-bingo-signup APPLY FOR 1:1 COACHING WITH LAUREN https://usv2nrx1n1p.typeform.com/to/vFaAWnov GET YOUR STICKER https://forms.gle/qDenGJTAd5Qmspyz7    
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