The Struggle Climbing Show

Break through plateaus, stay consistent, and make every session count with a free 14-day trial of Intentional Climber. https://www.thestruggleclimbingshow.com/intentional   Support the Show on Patreon Get access to all Pro Clinics, bonus episodes, and more. https://www.patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow   - Coach Louis Parkinson and psychotherapist Joel Robertson team up to explore: Why beginner climbers are often happier than experienced climbers The three main sources of enjoyment as climbers A “humanistic” approach to climbing Benefits of neutral self talk (rather than positive or negative) How to be an effective self-coach A magic word we can say to ourselves that will change our climbing in a huge way Arriving at the moment ready to send How to climb our hardest year after year (forever) if we want Grab a copy of Get a Grip at your local bookstore, or find it on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/dp/1839813040?lv=shuf&channelId=500&plpRedirect=mhFallback - BIG THANKS TO THE AMAZING SPONSORS OF THE STRUGGLE WHO LOVE ROCK CLIMBING AS MUCH AS YOU DO: PhysiVantage: the official climbing-nutrition sponsor of The Struggle. Train harder, recover faster, and feel better than ever. I love all their stuff! Use code STRUGGLE15 at checkout for 15% off your full-priced nutrition order. Arc’teryx: Inspired by and tested in the Coast Mountains of BC, Arc’teryx makes gear to go the distance! If you’re out adventuring in the elements, Arc’teryx has got you covered. Shop their full collection at Arcteryx.com  Intentional Climber: Stop spinning your wheels. Start making real progress. Plan smarter, train harder, and stay consistent with world-class coaching plans, mindset tools, and powerful analytics built specifically for climbers. Download on Google Play or the App Store and use code STRUGGLE to unlock Kris Hampton’s 6-week Stronger Fingers program. And check out ALL the show’s awesome sponsors and exclusive deals at thestruggleclimbingshow.com/deals   - Shoutout to Kent Olmstead, Michael Martin, and Sam Hancock for supporting at the Hero level on Patreon. So mega!  - Here are some AI generated show notes (hopefully the robots got it right) 00:00 Self Worth After Success 00:26 Show Intro And Book Setup 01:51 Why Get A Grip Matters 05:33 Meet The Co Authors 05:59 Joel Origin Story 08:47 Coaching Meets Therapy 10:08 How The Book Began 12:57 Climbing And Fragile Worth 15:38 Why Climbing Triggers Ego 18:23 Three Joy Sources In Climbing 21:51 Sponsor Break 24:47 Humanistic Worth Explained 28:42 Erin And Family Expectations 31:38 Staying On I Am Enough 32:28 Grades And Status 34:00 Power We Give Away 37:57 Comparison Book Analogy 42:05 Neutral Self Talk 48:12 Yet And So Far 52:24 Language Shapes Training 54:40 Intentional Climber Plug 57:47 Expectations And Conditions 01:02:27 Pressure When It Matters 01:07:07 Disappointment Without Identity 01:09:06 Healthy Ambition Reframed 01:11:00 Motivation After Your Peak 01:14:58 Flow Fulfillment Purpose 01:17:23 Change Mindset For Aging 01:19:11 Mortality Regret Acceptance 01:23:09 Climbing Values Check In 01:25:03 Book Highlights Mindfulness 01:30:02 Where To Get The Book 01:32:33 Host Wrap Up Updates - Follow along on Instagram @thestruggleclimbingshow and YouTube /@thestruggleclimbingshow - The Struggle is carbon-neutral in partnership with The Honnold Foundation, whose mission is to promote solar energy for a more equitable world. - This show is produced and hosted by Ryan Devlin, and edited by Glen Walker. The Struggle is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a diverse group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry. - The struggle makes us stronger! I hope your training and climbing are going great.  - And now here are some buzzwords to help the almighty algorithm get this show in front of people who love to climb: rock climbing, rock climber, climbing, climber, bouldering, sport climbing, gym climbing, how to rock climb, donuts are amazing. Okay, whew, that’s done. But hey, if you’re a human that’s actually reading this, and if you love this show (and love to climb) would you think about sharing this episode with a climber friend of yours? And shout it out on your socials? I’ll send you a sticker for doing it. Just shoot me a message on IG – thanks so much! 

Break through plateaus, stay consistent, and make every session count with a free 14-day trial of Intentional Climber. https://www.thestruggleclimbingshow.com/intentional   Support the Show on Patreon Get access to all Pro Clinics, bonus episodes, and more. https://www.patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow   Founder of The Climb Clinic, Kevin Cowell, joins to discuss: Starting the Climb Clinic in his garage Treating elite athletes and weekend warriors What happens to our identify as climbers when we become injured How to keep climbing and training while managing an injury Work, school, family… and other things that can affect our climbing identity What to do when pushing grades is important What to do after we’ve “peaked” How to get better when we can’t get stronger Follow Kevin https://www.instagram.com/theclimbclinic/?hl=en - BIG THANKS TO THE AMAZING SPONSORS OF THE STRUGGLE WHO LOVE ROCK CLIMBING AS MUCH AS YOU DO: PhysiVantage: the official climbing-nutrition sponsor of The Struggle. Use code STRUGGLE15 at checkout for 15% off your full-priced nutrition order. Arc’teryx: Inspired by and tested in the Coast Mountains of BC, Arc’teryx makes gear to go the distance! If you’re out adventuring in the elements, Arc’teryx has got you covered. Shop their full collection at Arcteryx.com Intentional Climber: Stop spinning your wheels. Start making real progress. Plan smarter, train harder, and stay consistent with world-class coaching plans, mindset tools, and powerful analytics built specifically for climbers. Download on Google Play or the App Store and use code STRUGGLE to unlock Kris Hampton’s 6-week Stronger Fingers program.  And check out ALL the show’s awesome sponsors and exclusive deals at thestruggleclimbingshow.com/deals - Here are some AI generated show notes (hopefully the robots got it right) 00:00 Plateaus And Shifting Focus 00:56 Meet Kevin Kowal 03:44 Squamish Academy Stories 04:42 Kevin’s Climbing Origin 06:12 Building The Climb Clinic 08:23 Treating Pro Athletes 10:23 When Expectations Collapse 12:43 Injury And Identity 14:39 Reframing Rehab And Training 19:13 Beyond Injury Life Changes 22:56 Sponsors And Gear Break 25:48 Kevin’s Own Setbacks 31:47 Progression Obsession 34:14 Can You Still Progress 36:03 Plateau And Tweaks 36:46 Low Hanging Fruit 38:50 Elite Habits Beyond Hangboarding 40:55 Training Shift Rope To Board 45:36 Injury As Performance Gift 46:51 Life After The Peak 51:38 Humbling Trips And New Beta 57:14 Long Term Climbing Relationship 01:00:39 Work With Kevin And His Course 01:04:12 Bonus Episode And Season Updates   - Shoutout to Kent Olmstead, Michael Martin, and Sam Hancock for supporting at the Hero level on Patreon. So mega!  - Follow along on Instagram and YouTube: @thestruggleclimbingshow  - This show is produced and hosted by Ryan Devlin, and edited by Glen Walker. The Struggle is carbon-neutral in partnership with The Honnold Foundation and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a diverse group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry. And now here are some buzzwords to help the almighty algorithm get this show in front of people who love to climb: rock climbing, rock climber, climbing, climber, bouldering, sport climbing, gym climbing, how to rock climb, donuts are amazing. Okay, whew, that’s done. But hey, if you’re a human that’s actually reading this, and if you love this show (and love to climb) would you think about sharing this episode with a climber friend of yours? And shout it out on your socials? I’ll send you a sticker for doing it. Just shoot me a message on IG – thanks so much! 

Break through plateaus, stay consistent, and make every session count with a free 14-day trial of Intentional Climber. https://www.thestruggleclimbingshow.com/intentional   OG climbers and advocates Shannon Stuart-Smith, Hugh Loeffler, and Paul Vidal, join for a live discussion at iconic Miguel's Pizza during Rocktoberfest to explore: The hilarious stories behind the naming of the classic routes  “Two Women Alone” and “Mercy the Huff” Early days of bolting routes at the Red The forest service bolting ban that prompted Shannon, Hugh, and others to take action to protect the Red How to fake your way into becoming an organization The discovery, development, and purchase of the Motherlode The discovery of The Dark Side The Hominy Hole incident Petzl RocTrip and Rocktoberfest - PLEASE SUPPORT THE WORK OF THE RRGCC IF YOU CAN, ALONG WITH THESE RAD BRANDS WHO SUPPORT THE COALITION: Red River Gorge Climbers Coalition: Freedom to climb is not free. If you climb at the Red, become a member! PhysiVantage: the official climbing-nutrition sponsor of The Struggle. Use code STRUGGLE15 at checkout for 15% off your full-priced nutrition order. SCARPA: The best climbing shoes, trail runners, and hikers in the game! Score yourself a free SCARPA x STRUGGLE hat when you use code STRUGGLE at checkout at SCARPA.com. SCARPA, No Place Too Far. Petzl: The best and most reliable helmets, harnesses, draws, and gear that'll help you to Access the Inaccessible. Find Petzl at your local gear shop, and learn more at Petzl.com Rhino Skin Solutions: Take care of your skin, send harder! Amazing skin care products crafted specifically for climbers, whether you’re pulling hard indoors or out. Use code STRUGGLE to score a whopping 20% off your purchase!    And check out ALL the show’s awesome sponsors and exclusive deals at thestruggleclimbingshow.com/deals - Shoutout to Kent Olmstead, Michael Martin, and Sam Hancock for supporting at the Hero level on Patreon. So mega!  - Follow along on Instagram and YouTube: @thestruggleclimbingshow  - This show is produced and hosted by Ryan Devlin, and edited by Glen Walker. The Struggle is carbon-neutral in partnership with The Honnold Foundation and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a diverse group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry. And now here are some buzzwords to help the almighty algorithm get this show in front of people who love to climb: rock climbing, rock climber, climbing, climber, bouldering, sport climbing, gym climbing, how to rock climb, donuts are amazing. Okay, whew, that’s done. But hey, if you’re a human that’s actually reading this, and if you love this show (and love to climb) would you think about sharing this episode with a climber friend of yours? And shout it out on your socials? I’ll send you a sticker for doing it. Just shoot me a message on IG – thanks so much! 

Break through plateaus, stay consistent, and make every session count with a free 14-day trial of Intentional Climber. https://www.thestruggleclimbingshow.com/intentional   Support the Show on Patreon Get access to all Pro Clinics, bonus episodes, and more. https://www.patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow   Chris Kalous of the Enormocast, along with weekend warrior (and Hell coach) Annette Guo, join me to explore the good, the bad, and the ugly of our recent 24 Hours of Horseshoe Hell epic, including: My mind blowing COROS metrics Coach Annette and her support plan Using legs more than arms Funniest moment Darkest moment Having a good cry My epic bonk and how we adjusted The song that lifted me out of the depths 75 routes, 100 routes   - BIG THANKS TO THE AMAZING SPONSORS WHO GOT ME THROUGH HELL AND BACK: COROS: Track your workouts, HR, HRV, Sleep, Recovery, and Climbs with the best wearable tech for serious climbers. Use code STRUGGLE at COROS.com to score a free watch band with the purchase of a COROS Apex 4. SCARPA: The best climbing shoes, trail runners, and hikers in the game! Score yourself a free SCARPA x STRUGGLE hat when you use code STRUGGLE at checkout at SCARPA.com. SCARPA, No Place Too Far. Petzl: The best and most reliable helmets, harnesses, draws, and gear that'll help you to Access the Inaccessible. Find Petzl at your local gear shop, and learn more at Petzl.com Rhino Skin Solutions: Take care of your skin, send harder! Amazing skin care products crafted specifically for climbers, whether you’re pulling hard indoors or out. Use code STRUGGLE to score a whopping 20% off your purchase!    And check out ALL the show’s awesome sponsors and exclusive deals at thestruggleclimbingshow.com/deals - Shoutout to Kent Olmstead, Michael Martin, and Sam Hancock for supporting at the Hero level on Patreon. So mega!  - Follow along on Instagram and YouTube: @thestruggleclimbingshow  - This show is produced and hosted by Ryan Devlin, and edited by Glen Walker. The Struggle is carbon-neutral in partnership with The Honnold Foundation and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a diverse group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry.   And now here are some buzzwords to help the almighty algorithm get this show in front of people who love to climb: rock climbing, rock climber, climbing, climber, bouldering, sport climbing, gym climbing, how to rock climb, donuts are amazing. Okay, whew, that’s done. But hey, if you’re a human that’s actually reading this, and if you love this show (and love to climb) would you think about sharing this episode with a climber friend of yours? And shout it out on your socials? I’ll send you a sticker for doing it. Just shoot me a message on IG – thanks so much! 

Break through plateaus, stay consistent, and make every session count with a free 14-day trial of Intentional Climber. https://www.thestruggleclimbingshow.com/intentional   Join the email list to get a FREE private finger training clinic with Dr. Tyler Nelson (normally $15) www.thestruggleclimbingshow.com/strong   Support the Show on Patreon Get access to all Pro Clinics, bonus episodes, and more. https://www.patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow   Climbing Coach Joy Black joins to discuss: How to make a 30-min session count Removing friction to start workouts faster Being strong doesn’t mean being good Her groundbreaking study on climbing while pregnant How dangerous is falling while pregnant? Helpful signs to know when to end a session Postpartum training and climbing I HAVE A PELVIC FLOOR (and so do you) Listener Q&A   Follow joy on IG, @climbingwithjoy, and email her for a copy of the study: [email protected] - BIG THANKS TO THE AMAZING SPONSORS OF THE STRUGGLE WHO LOVE ROCK CLIMBING AS MUCH AS YOU DO: PhysiVantage: the official climbing-nutrition sponsor of The Struggle. Train harder, recover faster, and feel better than ever. I love all their stuff! Use code STRUGGLE15 at checkout for 15% off your full-priced nutrition order. Arc’teryx: Inspired by and tested in the Coast Mountains of BC, Arc’teryx makes gear to go the distance! If you’re out adventuring in the elements, Arc’teryx has got you covered. Shop their full collection at Arcteryx.com  Intentional Climber: Stop spinning your wheels. Start making real progress. Plan smarter, train harder, and stay consistent with world-class coaching plans, mindset tools, and powerful analytics built specifically for climbers. Download on Google Play or the App Store and use code STRUGGLE to unlock Kris Hampton’s 6-week Stronger Fingers program. And check out ALL the show’s awesome sponsors and exclusive deals at thestruggleclimbingshow.com/deals - Here are some AI generated show notes (hopefully the robots got it right) 00:00 Why This Paper Matters 00:48 Meet Joy Black 05:01 Small Talk and Cold Plunges 08:07 Parenting and Training Consistency 13:08 Beating Perfectionism 16:56 Joy’s Current Struggle 21:12 Coaching Pregnant Climbers 24:52 Sponsor Break 27:45 Replacing Opinion With Data 33:14 Study Methods and Fall Risk 36:24 Risk Rates In Context 37:29 Talking With Providers 40:01 Bouldering Falls Breakdown 41:38 How Climbers Self Modify 44:03 Misconceptions About Falling 45:50 Miscarriage And Birth Outcomes 46:48 Natural Taper And Guardrails 50:45 Pregnancy Not Performance Season 54:12 Intentional Climber Ad Break 56:04 Mental Health Benefits 58:18 Relaxin And Finger Training 01:03:21 Defining Postpartum Timeline 01:06:13 Breastfeeding Vs Recovery 01:08:11 Pelvic Floor Explained 01:12:55 Postpartum Pelvic Floor Rehab 01:16:04 Pelvic Floor Progression 01:17:04 Coaching Lessons for All 01:19:41 Consistency and Intentional Training 01:20:55 Finger Training Focus 01:22:31 Overcoming Iso Repeaters Setup 01:25:52 Overhead vs Ground Repeaters 01:28:32 Stacking Sessions and Block Pulls 01:30:22 Rapid Fire Listener Q&A 01:30:36 Kids at the Gym Tips 01:32:53 Caffeine During Pregnancy 01:34:05 Two Years Postpartum Rebuild 01:37:41 Where to Find Joy 01:39:06 Wrap Up and Next Pro Clinic 01:41:11 Host Updates and Upcoming Events 01:47:48 Final Thanks and Sign Off - Shoutout to Kent Olmstead, Michael Martin, and Sam Hancock for supporting at the Hero level on Patreon. So mega!  - Follow along on Instagram and YouTube: @thestruggleclimbingshow  - This show is produced and hosted by Ryan Devlin, and edited by Glen Walker. The Struggle is carbon-neutral in partnership with The Honnold Foundation and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a diverse group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry. And now here are some buzzwords to help the almighty algorithm get this show in front of people who love to climb: rock climbing, rock climber, climbing, climber, bouldering, sport climbing, gym climbing, how to rock climb, donuts are amazing. Okay, whew, that’s done. But hey, if you’re a human that’s actually reading this, and if you love this show (and love to climb) would you think about sharing this episode with a climber friend of yours? And shout it out on your socials? I’ll send you a sticker for doing it. Just shoot me a message on IG – thanks so much!