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The Struggle Climbing Show
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The Struggle Climbing Show

Author: Ryan Devlin

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Named one of Climbing Magazine’s favorite podcasts. 2M+ Downloads!
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If you love rock climbing, self-improvement, and inspiring stories... chalk up and pull on.
184 Episodes
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Join the email list to get a FREE private finger training clinic with Dr. Tyler Nelson (normally $10) www.thestruggleclimbingshow.com/strong   Support the Show on Patreon Get access to all Pro Clinics, bonus episodes, and more. https://www.patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow   In this episode focused on all things wrists, Dr. Tyler Nelson brings the science and application, covering: Why there’s been a steady rise of wrist injuries in climbers How to train up wrist flexion strength to perform better on slopers  The reason bigger holds can be more injurious Google won't show you the most common climber injury Wrist Wrench vs. Rolling Thunder Set and rep scheme for wrist training To tape or not to tape? Recovery time frames for wrist injuries How to return to hard climbing faster after an injury - And check out ALL the show’s awesome sponsors and exclusive deals at thestruggleclimbingshow.com/deals   Check out Tyler's course on wrist injury and rehab, and his many other fantastic courses: https://www.camp4humanperformance.com/store - Here are some AI generated show notes (hopefully the robots got it right) 00:00 Introduction and Overview 00:27 Welcome and Guest Introduction 00:44 Understanding Wrist Injuries in Climbers 02:56 Personal Experiences and Injury Management 04:32 Training and Strengthening Techniques 46:24 Managing Wrist Injuries in Climbing 47:39 Personal Experiences with Wrist Pain 50:09 Common Wrist Injuries in Climbers 57:48 Recovery and Rehabilitation Strategies 01:15:23 Training Tips and Final Thoughts - Shoutout to Matt Waltereese for being a Victory Whip supporter on Patreon! So mega. - Follow along on Instagram and YouTube: @thestruggleclimbingshow  - This show is produced and hosted by Ryan Devlin, and edited by Glen Walker. The Struggle is carbon-neutral in partnership with The Honnold Foundation and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a diverse group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry.   And now here are some buzzwords to help the almighty algorithm get this show in front of people who love to climb: rock climbing, rock climber, climbing, climber, bouldering, sport climbing, gym climbing, how to rock climb, donuts are amazing. Okay, whew, that’s done. But hey, if you’re a human that’s actually reading this, and if you love this show (and love to climb) would you think about sharing this episode with a climber friend of yours? And shout it out on your socials? I’ll send you a sticker for doing it. Just shoot me a message on IG – thanks so much! 
Join The Struggle’s Patreon community to get 100+ hours of Bonus Episodes, Pro Clinics, Uncut Videos, and Submit Questions for Future Guests. FREE TRIAL available!  https://www.patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow   In this Pro Clinic, climbing coach and dyno master Charlie Schreiber explores: The 5 pillars of mastering dynos The #1 issue that holds climbers back by up to 4 grades Beginner dyno training program Managing fear of injury The power of keeping a dyno journal Which specific setups and moves to practice in a gym setting  Where to program dyno training within other training and climbing  The Japanese chat code for dyno domination The specific biomechanics of a dyno and how to optimize each step - Enter the giveaway! https://www.thestruggleclimbingshow.com/charlie Work with Charlie: https://www.paradigmclimbing.com/ Follow Charlie: https://www.instagram.com/paradigm_climbing_coaching/ - Here are some AI generated show notes (hopefully the robots got it right) 00:00 Introduction and Welcome 00:29 Guest Introduction: Coach Charlie Schreiber 02:43 Charlie's Climbing Philosophy and Rocklands Trip 04:01 The Importance of Patience in Climbing 11:32 Defining Dynamic Climbing and Dynos 13:57 Key Elements for Successful Dynos 18:17 Overcoming Fear and Building Confidence 24:15 Practical Tips for Dino Training 28:49 Falling Practice and Safety 32:45 Advanced Dino Techniques and Variety 34:49 Conclusion and Giveaway Details   - Shoutout to Matt Waltereese for being a Victory Whip supporter on Patreon! So mega. - Follow along on Instagram and YouTube: @thestruggleclimbingshow  - This show is produced and hosted by Ryan Devlin, and edited by Glen Walker. The Struggle is carbon-neutral in partnership with The Honnold Foundation and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a diverse group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry. - The struggle makes us stronger! Let's get out there and try hard. Thanks for supporting the show, y'all.  - And now here are some buzzwords to help the almighty algorithm get this show in front of people who love to climb: rock climbing, rock climber, climbing, climber, bouldering, sport climbing, gym climbing, how to rock climb, donuts are amazing. Okay, whew, that’s done. But hey, if you’re a human that’s actually reading this, and if you love this show (and love to climb) would you think about sharing this episode with a climber friend of yours? And shout it out on your socials? I’ll send you a sticker for doing it. Just shoot me a message on IG – thanks so much! 
Join the email list to get a FREE private finger training clinic with Dr. Tyler Nelson (normally $10) www.thestruggleclimbingshow.com/strong   Support the Show on Patreon Get access to all Pro Clinics, bonus episodes, and more. https://www.patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow   Weekend Warrior, Sara Berg, explores: How to fit climbing sessions into a very busy work and life schedule Dealing with injury and setbacks after having kids Working with Natasha Barnes on strength training Working with coach Matt Pincus on climber training The importance of a dialed warm-up for shoulders and fingers How she builds endurance even during her busiest seasons Working to build back her pyramid with a goal of 13a The benefits and drawbacks of having kids at the crag How to be a supportive climbing partner to friends who have kids - BIG THANKS TO THE AMAZING SPONSORS OF THE STRUGGLE WHO LOVE ROCK CLIMBING AS MUCH AS YOU DO: PhysiVantage: the official climbing-nutrition sponsor of The Struggle. Use code STRUGGLE15 at checkout for 15% off your full-priced nutrition order. Kilter: Award winning, adjustable, light-up board. It’s what I’m training on at home, and if you’re psyched to join me then use code STRUGGLE at checkout when you build your board, and you’ll score up to $1000 off plus a free gift pack let’s goooo!   And check out ALL the show’s awesome sponsors and exclusive deals at thestruggleclimbingshow.com/deals - Here are some AI generated show notes (hopefully the robots got it right) 00:00 Balancing Life and Climbing 00:23 Introduction to the Weekend Warrior Series 01:04 Meet Sara Berg: The Climbing Mom 02:20 Climbing Adventures with Sara 04:24 Sara's Climbing Journey and Family Life 12:39 Challenges of Climbing Post-Pregnancy 23:12 Training and Recovery Insights 28:11 Strength Training and Finger Protocols 34:35 Warming Up and Limit Bouldering 35:25 Switching to the Kilter Board 36:54 Aerobic Training on the Tread Wall 38:56 Fall Season Goals and Achievements 43:34 Climbing with Kids: Challenges and Strategies 51:25 Future Goals and Training Plans 01:02:43 Weekend Warrior Reflections 01:03:59 Personal Updates and Community Engagement - Shoutout to Matt Waltereese for being a Victory Whip supporter on Patreon! So mega. - Follow along on Instagram and YouTube: @thestruggleclimbingshow  Follow Sara on Instagram: @climblikeagirl - This show is produced and hosted by Ryan Devlin, and edited by Glen Walker. The Struggle is carbon-neutral in partnership with The Honnold Foundation and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a diverse group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry. And now here are some buzzwords to help the almighty algorithm get this show in front of people who love to climb: rock climbing, rock climber, climbing, climber, bouldering, sport climbing, gym climbing, how to rock climb, donuts are amazing. Okay, whew, that’s done. But hey, if you’re a human that’s actually reading this, and if you love this show (and love to climb) would you think about sharing this episode with a climber friend of yours? And shout it out on your socials? I’ll send you a sticker for doing it. Just shoot me a message on IG – thanks so much!
Join the email list to get a FREE private finger training clinic with Dr. Tyler Nelson (normally $10) www.thestruggleclimbingshow.com/strong   Support the Show on Patreon Get access to all Pro Clinics, bonus episodes, and more. https://www.patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow   Anna Hazelnutt is back with another Crag Chat packed with laughs, musings, updates, struggles, beta, and whatever else is on our minds, including: The ups and downs of a climbing injury Training legs and core The rad climbing scene in Colombia Surprise guest and Canadian Crusher, Connor Runge Training while on a long climbing trip Connor's coaching style Pros and cons of dating a climber -     THIS EPISODE IS SUPPORTED BY: Kilter: Award winning, adjustable, light-up boards. I’m training on the Homewall Full Ride, and if you’re psyched to join me then use code STRUGGLE at checkout when you build your board, and you’ll score up to $1000 off plus a free gift pack let’s goooo!   Shoutout to Matt Waltereese for being a Victory Whip supporter on Patreon! So mega. - To work with Connor as a coach, hit him up at Project Direct: https://www.projectdirectcoaching.com/connorrunge   Check out Anna’s latest videos on her YT channel: youtube.com/@annahazelnutt    Check out The Struggle’s latest videos at: youtube.com/@thestruggleclimbingshow    Follow along on Instagram @thestruggleclimbingshow and @annahazelnutt  - This show is produced and hosted by Ryan Devlin. The Struggle is carbon-neutral in partnership with The Honnold Foundation and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a diverse group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry.   And now here are some buzzwords to help the almighty algorithm get this show in front of people who love to climb: rock climbing, rock climber, climbing, climber, bouldering, sport climbing, gym climbing, how to rock climb, donuts are amazing. Okay, whew, that’s done. But hey, if you’re a human that’s actually reading this, and if you love this show (and love to climb) would you think about sharing this episode with a climber friend of yours? And shout it out on your socials? I’ll send you a sticker for doing it. Just shoot me a message on IG – thanks so much!
Join The Struggle’s Patreon community to get 100+ hours of Bonus Episodes, Pro Clinics, Uncut Videos, and Submit Questions for Future Guests. FREE TRIAL available!  https://www.patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow - Elite climber, Tim Emmett, explores: The moments surrounding the send of Era Vella (9a) Dealing with relentless failure Overcoming countless injuries and setbacks 8 years of effort and commitment Being his fittest and strongest at age 51 The invisible costs of taking on a huge project  The training breakthrough prescribed by Neil Gresham Having a total emotional breakdown  The diet change that changed everything Letting go of the outcome  Skills over strength Here's Tim's emotional video just after sending the proj: https://www.instagram.com/p/DRH5YN4CEa0/ - BIG THANKS TO THE AMAZING SPONSORS OF THE STRUGGLE WHO LOVE ROCK CLIMBING AS MUCH AS YOU DO: Kilter: Award winning, adjustable, light-up boards. I’m training on the Homewall Full Ride, and if you’re psyched to join me then use code STRUGGLE at checkout when you build your board, and you’ll score up to $1000 off plus a free gift pack let’s goooo! PhysiVantage: the official climbing-nutrition sponsor of The Struggle. Train harder, recover faster, and feel better than ever. I love all their stuff! Use code STRUGGLE15 at checkout for 15% off your full-priced nutrition order. Rúngne: Soft threads and high performing chalk! Use Code STRUGGLE for 10% Off Bags, Buckets, Chalk & Apparel from Rúngne! Rungne.com   And check out ALL the show’s awesome sponsors and exclusive deals at thestruggleclimbingshow.com/deals   - Shoutout to Matt Waltereese for being a Victory Whip supporter on Patreon! So mega. - Here are some AI generated show notes (hopefully the robots got it right) 00:00 Introduction and Welcome 03:14 Interview with Tim Emmett Begins 04:01 Tim's Emotional Journey and Achievements 08:25 Challenges and Family Sacrifices 13:05 Mental and Physical Preparation 28:10 Training and Nutrition Insights 35:36 Injury and Diet Impact 36:09 Performance Eating vs. General Diet 39:13 Balancing Happiness and Discipline 40:51 Winter Climbing and Training Goals 42:38 PhysiVantage Sponsorship 44:07 The Struggle Patreon Community 45:38 Reflecting on Personal Climbing Achievements 47:09 The Journey to Climbing Success 01:02:19 Listener Questions and Final Thoughts - Follow along on Instagram @thestruggleclimbingshow and YouTube /@thestruggleclimbingshow - The Struggle is carbon-neutral in partnership with The Honnold Foundation, whose mission is to promote solar energy for a more equitable world. - This show is produced and hosted by Ryan Devlin, and edited by Glen Walker. The Struggle is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a diverse group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry. - The struggle makes us stronger! I hope your training and climbing are going great.  - And now here are some buzzwords to help the almighty algorithm get this show in front of people who love to climb: rock climbing, rock climber, climbing, climber, bouldering, sport climbing, gym climbing, how to rock climb, donuts are amazing. Okay, whew, that’s done. But hey, if you’re a human that’s actually reading this, and if you love this show (and love to climb) would you think about sharing this episode with a climber friend of yours? And shout it out on your socials? I’ll send you a sticker for doing it. Just shoot me a message on IG – thanks so much!   
Join The Struggle’s Patreon community to get 100+ hours of Bonus Episodes, Pro Clinics, Uncut Videos, and Submit Questions for Future Guests. FREE TRIAL available!  https://www.patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow   Coach Kevin Cuckovich from Kilter joins to discuss: Results from my Kilter reassessment Improvements in strength and movement Struggles in beta and commitment  Plans for doubling my hold set Going steeper and harder next block V8+ projecting schedule  Should I set a replica? Off-the-wall conditioning plan   Here's the first assessment episode with Kevin Here's the 90-90 stretch - Shoutout to Matt Waltereese for being a Victory Whip supporter. So mega!  - BIG THANKS TO THE AMAZING SPONSORS OF THE STRUGGLE WHO LOVE ROCK CLIMBING AS MUCH AS YOU DO: PhysiVantage: the official climbing-nutrition sponsor of The Struggle. Use code STRUGGLE15 at checkout for 15% off your full-priced nutrition order. ForceBoard: A better way to train fingers. Portable, accurate, and created to train finger strength and endurance exactly how YOU need it. Score $10 off and support the show by using code STRUGGLE10 at checkout.  And check out ALL the show’s awesome sponsors and exclusive deals at thestruggleclimbingshow.com/deals - Here are some AI generated show notes (hopefully the robots got it right) 00:00 Introduction and Year-End Reflections 00:39 Holiday Season and Personal Life 01:45 Training Recap with Coach Kevin Kovich 02:44 Assessment and Progress Evaluation 03:04 Outdoor Climbing and Future Goals 03:54 Training Insights and Techniques 05:18 Assessment Challenges and Mindset 08:22 Footwork and Technique Improvements 18:16 Mental Approach to Climbing 27:21 Product Endorsements and Personal Insights 33:56 Reflecting on the First Training Block 34:29 Upcoming Changes and New Holds 34:51 Programming and Projecting Strategy 35:55 Training Angles and Volume 36:36 Project Day Structure 39:37 Adjustable Board Benefits 43:11 Outdoor Projecting Insights 44:35 Programming for Specific Projects 57:49 Conditioning and Strength Training 59:42 Concluding Thoughts and Future Plans   - Shoutout to Matt Waltereese for being a Victory Whip supporter on Patreon! So mega. - Follow along on Instagram and YouTube: @thestruggleclimbingshow  - This show is produced and hosted by Ryan Devlin, and edited by Glen Walker. The Struggle is carbon-neutral in partnership with The Honnold Foundation and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a diverse group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry. And now here are some buzzwords to help the almighty algorithm get this show in front of people who love to climb: rock climbing, rock climber, climbing, climber, bouldering, sport climbing, gym climbing, how to rock climb, donuts are amazing. Okay, whew, that’s done. But hey, if you’re a human that’s actually reading this, and if you love this show (and love to climb) would you think about sharing this episode with a climber friend of yours? And shout it out on your socials? I’ll send you a sticker for doing it. Just shoot me a message on IG – thanks so much! 
Join The Struggle’s Patreon community to get 100+ hours of Bonus Episodes, Pro Clinics, Uncut Videos, and Submit Questions for Future Guests. FREE TRIAL available!  https://www.patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow   In this Pro Clinic, Dr. Tyler Nelson digs into recent scientific studies to explore: What 'masters athletes' can do to maintain or build strength Why losing strength with age is not inevitable How to maintain strong tendons with age How to get strong without getting big  What younger climbers can do to prep for their older years Specific protocols for strength, power, and hypertrophy Sets and reps schemes for a 5-day program How to keep strength and power up during a climbing season The fallacy of fatigue  Large vs small muscle group programming When to focus on power vs strength in season Winter programming Should we lift before or after climbing? How to build power as part of a climbing warmup  Hang board protocols for strength and health  Nutrition, supplements, and sleep guidelines for aging athletes   HERE is a fantastic article Tyler wrote about the subject, to support what was covered in this interview   Other episodes about strength and power to check out: Dr. Tyler Nelson on Finger Strength Dr. Tyler Nelson on Power Dr. Tyler Nelson Q&A  Dr. Natasha Barnes on Strength Training Colin and Jesse of C4HP on Strength Training - Gain instant access to the FULL Pro Clinic by supporting the show as a Patron (you can even check it out for FREE with a 7-day trial): https://www.patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow - Here are some AI generated show notes (hopefully the robots got it right) 00:00 Introduction: Stronger at 43 00:27 Welcome to the Struggle Climbing Show 00:38 Defying Aging: Science and Strength 02:09 Understanding Aging Athletes 02:32 Specific Training Programs for Older Climbers 18:46 The Importance of Tendon Health 25:59 Programming for Aging Athletes 26:21 Conclusion and Membership Information - Shoutout to Matt Waltereese for being a Victory Whip supporter on Patreon! So mega. - Follow along on Instagram and YouTube: @thestruggleclimbingshow  - This show is produced and hosted by Ryan Devlin, and edited by Glen Walker. The Struggle is carbon-neutral in partnership with The Honnold Foundation and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a diverse group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry. - The struggle makes us stronger! Let's get out there and try hard. Thanks for supporting the show, y'all.  - And now here are some buzzwords to help the almighty algorithm get this show in front of people who love to climb: rock climbing, rock climber, climbing, climber, bouldering, sport climbing, gym climbing, how to rock climb, donuts are amazing. Okay, whew, that’s done. But hey, if you’re a human that’s actually reading this, and if you love this show (and love to climb) would you think about sharing this episode with a climber friend of yours? And shout it out on your socials? I’ll send you a sticker for doing it. Just shoot me a message on IG – thanks so much!   
Join The Struggle’s Patreon community to get 100+ hours of Bonus Episodes, Pro Clinics, Uncut Videos, and Submit Questions for Future Guests. FREE TRIAL available!  https://www.patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow - In this episode, pro climber Ethan Pringle explores: Dealing with discomfort Releasing mental baggage Struggling with self-image Prioritizing outdoor climbing over indoor training  What he and Sharma have in common Going back for unfinished business  Goals for Meltdown and La Rambla The benefit of discovering “tired beta” What the best boulderers do   There’s always better beta. Always.  A sport climber's mentality for bouldering  Managing risk and fear on scary boulders - BIG THANKS TO THE AMAZING SPONSORS OF THE STRUGGLE WHO LOVE ROCK CLIMBING AS MUCH AS YOU DO: PhysiVantage: the official climbing-nutrition sponsor of The Struggle. Use code STRUGGLE15 at checkout for 15% off your full-priced nutrition order. ForceBoard: A better way to train fingers. Portable, accurate, and created to train finger strength and endurance exactly how YOU need it. Score $10 off and support the show by using code STRUGGLE10 at checkout. Rúngne: Soft threads and high performing chalk! Use Code STRUGGLE for 10% Off Bags, Buckets, Chalk & Apparel from Rúngne! Rungne.com Nature Climbing: Beautifully crafted lifting edges and hangboards that feature real granite edges for improved texture and skin conditioning. Sustainably crafted works of art, I love them so much! Get 20% off everything at natureclimbing.com using code STRUGGLE.  And check out ALL the show’s awesome sponsors and exclusive deals at thestruggleclimbingshow.com/deals   - Shoutout to Matt Waltereese for being a Victory Whip supporter on Patreon! So mega. - Here are some AI generated show notes (hopefully the robots got it right) 00:00 Introduction 01:26 Ethan Pringle's Climbing Achievements 02:49 Deep Dive into Climbing Philosophy 04:25 Interview Begins: Ethan's Background and Struggles 12:03 Mindset and Emotional Challenges in Climbing 56:09 Unlocking Beta: The Key to Climbing Success 57:42 The Philosophy of Constant Refinement 01:00:23 Creative Solutions and Beta Breakthroughs 01:03:37 The Importance of Strategy and Tactics 01:19:11 Managing Fear and Mental Barriers in Climbing - Follow along on Instagram @thestruggleclimbingshow and YouTube /@thestruggleclimbingshow - The Struggle is carbon-neutral in partnership with The Honnold Foundation, whose mission is to promote solar energy for a more equitable world. - This show is produced and hosted by Ryan Devlin, and edited by Glen Walker. The Struggle is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a diverse group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry. - The struggle makes us stronger! I hope your training and climbing are going great.  - And now here are some buzzwords to help the almighty algorithm get this show in front of people who love to climb: rock climbing, rock climber, climbing, climber, bouldering, sport climbing, gym climbing, how to rock climb, donuts are amazing. Okay, whew, that’s done. But hey, if you’re a human that’s actually reading this, and if you love this show (and love to climb) would you think about sharing this episode with a climber friend of yours? And shout it out on your socials? I’ll send you a sticker for doing it. Just shoot me a message on IG – thanks so much! 
Casually reflecting on my training, performance, and experimentation for the month, including: Recap of November goals (hits and misses) Learnings from my second 12c What being "board strong" has meant for my route climbing  What it took to send 12a, 12b, 12c, and 12d in the past 6 weeks My first session on Bulldog boulder (V6 / V8) How I'm adjusting my training during this performance window The fear factor of trying higher moves on a boulder Patron questions December goals Thank you so much for supporting me. I love hearing what you're up to, so feel free to hit me up on IG. Have an awesome month!
Join The Struggle’s Patreon community to get 100+ hours of Bonus Episodes, Pro Clinics, Uncut Videos, and Submit Questions for Future Guests. FREE TRIAL available!  https://www.patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow   In this special Listener Q&A episode, Coach Tom Randall explores: Improving endurance by getting stronger  How to self assess weaknesses  Is there such thing as “active rest”? Developing beginner crack skills  Periodization for gym climbers  Which crack size is the best to train  What standard tests should climbers do How often should we test finger strength Building a cheap crack trainer at home Correlation between finger strength and climbing grade  Plus a bonus episode about free soloing buildings, and the mega building Alex Honnold will be soloing in January! - BIG THANKS TO THE AMAZING SPONSORS OF THE STRUGGLE WHO LOVE ROCK CLIMBING AS MUCH AS YOU DO: PhysiVantage: the official climbing-nutrition sponsor of The Struggle. Use code STRUGGLE15 at checkout for 15% off your full-priced nutrition order. Rúngne: Soft threads and high performing chalk! Use Code STRUGGLE for 10% Off Bags, Buckets, Chalk & Apparel from Rúngne! ForceBoard: A better way to train fingers. Portable, accurate, and created to train finger strength and endurance exactly how YOU need it. Score $10 off and support the show by using code STRUGGLE10 at checkout. Nature Climbing: Beautifully crafted lifting edges and hangboards that feature real granite edges for improved texture and skin conditioning. Sustainably crafted works of art, I love them so much! Get 20% off everything at natureclimbing.com using code STRUGGLE.   And check out ALL the show’s awesome sponsors and exclusive deals at thestruggleclimbingshow.com/deals - Here are some AI generated show notes (hopefully the robots got it right) 00:42 Listener Questions Overview 02:20 Personal Climbing Journey 03:22 Reconnecting with Tom Randall 04:36 Tom Randall's Training Insights 15:21 Self-Assessing Climbing Weaknesses 25:37 Active Rest and Recovery Tips 30:31 Learning Crack Climbing 36:54 Periodization for Gym Climbers 39:05 Adapting to Training and Periodization 42:03 Indoor vs. Outdoor Climbing 45:09 Crack Climbing Techniques and Training 47:46 Testing Metrics and Their Importance 53:52 Urban Crack Climbing and Unique Locations 55:30 Listener Q&A: Training and Climbing Insights 01:07:49 Encouraging Gyms to Set Crack Boulders 01:11:18 Conclusion and Bonus Content Announcement   - Shoutout to Matt Waltereese for being a Victory Whip supporter on Patreon! So mega. - Follow along on Instagram and YouTube: @thestruggleclimbingshow  - This show is produced and hosted by Ryan Devlin, and edited by Glen Walker. The Struggle is carbon-neutral in partnership with The Honnold Foundation and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a diverse group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry. And now here are some buzzwords to help the almighty algorithm get this show in front of people who love to climb: rock climbing, rock climber, climbing, climber, bouldering, sport climbing, gym climbing, how to rock climb, donuts are amazing. Okay, whew, that’s done. But hey, if you’re a human that’s actually reading this, and if you love this show (and love to climb) would you think about sharing this episode with a climber friend of yours? And shout it out on your socials? I’ll send you a sticker for doing it. Just shoot me a message on IG – thanks so much!
Join The Struggle’s Patreon community to get 100+ hours of Bonus Episodes, Pro Clinics, Uncut Videos, and Submit Questions for Future Guests. FREE TRIAL available!  https://www.patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow - In this skin care masterclass, Mads Bülow Duus from Nature Climbing and Justin Brown from Rhino Skin Solutions cover: Why skin care can be the difference maker What bad climbing skin looks like  What good climbing skin looks like How to bring skin humidity down How to to bring skin humidity up How to condition skin for specific types of rock When to prep skin (and how) for a big trip Protocol for using real rock edges and holds in training  How to treat a split or flapper - Get 20% off at Nature Climbing and Rhino Skin Solutions by using code STRUGGLE  - And check out ALL the show’s awesome sponsors and exclusive deals at thestruggleclimbingshow.com/deals   - Shoutout to Matt Waltereese for being a Victory Whip supporter on Patreon! So mega. - Here are some AI generated show notes (hopefully the robots got it right)   00:49 The Importance of Skin in Climbing 01:16 Ryan's Climbing Journey and Podcast 03:09 Meet the Skin Experts: Mads and Justin 06:28 Justin's Background and Rhino Skin Solutions 09:43 Mads' Background and Nature Climbing 11:58 Skin Preparation and Conditioning 18:18 Understanding Skin Types and Their Impact 22:50 Pre-Trip Skin Preparation Protocols 38:53 Managing Dry Skin for Climbers 42:06 Introduction to Spit and Its Ingredients 42:35 Application and Benefits of Spit for Climbers 43:18 Challenges of Climbing in Extreme Conditions 44:10 Skin Conditioning and Pain Tolerance Protocols 44:45 Training and Preparation for Climbing Trips 45:40 Managing Skin Health During Climbing Trips 48:37 Importance of Repair and Performance Creams 49:29 Using Stone Hangers and Warm-Up Techniques 52:12 Handling Skin Splits and Injuries 58:16 Choosing the Right Hang Board and Training Tools 01:03:59 Sustainability and New Products from Rhino and Nature Climbing 01:07:21 Personal Climbing Experiences and Final Thoughts     - Follow along on Instagram @thestruggleclimbingshow and YouTube /@thestruggleclimbingshow - The Struggle is carbon-neutral in partnership with The Honnold Foundation, whose mission is to promote solar energy for a more equitable world. - This show is produced and hosted by Ryan Devlin, and edited by Glen Walker. The Struggle is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a diverse group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry. - The struggle makes us stronger! I hope your training and climbing are going great.  - And now here are some buzzwords to help the almighty algorithm get this show in front of people who love to climb: rock climbing, rock climber, climbing, climber, bouldering, sport climbing, gym climbing, how to rock climb, donuts are amazing. Okay, whew, that’s done. But hey, if you’re a human that’s actually reading this, and if you love this show (and love to climb) would you think about sharing this episode with a climber friend of yours? And shout it out on your socials? I’ll send you a sticker for doing it. Just shoot me a message on IG – thanks so much! 
Join The Struggle’s Patreon community to get 100+ hours of Bonus Episodes, Pro Clinics, Uncut Videos, and Submit Questions for Future Guests. FREE TRIAL available!  https://www.patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow   In this episode of the Weekend Warrior series, busy-dad climber Joey Churchman joins to discuss: How he broke into new grades on just 3 hours per week at the gym Tall-climber struggles (he's 6' 6.5") Big gains using a training app to stay focused and efficient  From avoiding system boards to training almost exclusively on them How he programs his gym sessions and home training for optimal results  Picking the right project to break into V7 and 5.12a Top-roping tactics for faster sends  Using video to accelerate progress  - BIG THANKS TO THE AMAZING SPONSORS OF THE STRUGGLE WHO LOVE ROCK CLIMBING AS MUCH AS YOU DO: PhysiVantage: the official climbing-nutrition sponsor of The Struggle. Use code STRUGGLE15 at checkout for 15% off your full-priced nutrition order. Rúngne: Soft threads and high performing chalk! Use Code STRUGGLE for 10% Off Bags, Buckets, Chalk & Apparel from Rúngne! SCARPA: The best climbing shoes, trail runners, and hikers in the game! Score yourself a free SCARPA x STRUGGLE hat when you use code STRUGGLE at checkout at SCARPA.com. SCARPA, No Place Too Far. Petzl: The best and most reliable helmets, harnesses, draws, and gear that'll help you to Access the Inaccessible. Find Petzl at your local gear shop, and learn more at Petzl.com   And check out ALL the show’s awesome sponsors and exclusive deals at thestruggleclimbingshow.com/deals - Here are some AI generated show notes (hopefully the robots got it right) 00:00 Introduction and Welcome 00:25 Meet Joey Churchman: The Weekend Warrior 01:45 Balancing Climbing with Family and Work 03:03 Ryan's Personal Climbing Update 03:56 Joey's Climbing Background and Challenges 06:59 Training and Progression 14:44 Board Climbing Journey 20:27 Efficient Training Strategies 34:28 The Benefits of Running for Climbers 35:59 Balancing Fitness and Family 36:12 Running and Strength Conditioning Routine 37:38 Translating Training to Rock Climbing 39:38 Breaking into 5.12 Grades 47:16 Mental Strategies and Visualization 55:06 Bouldering with Family 59:06 Efficient Training and Video Analysis 01:04:07 Future Goals and Reflections 01:07:24 Host's Personal Climbing Update   - Shoutout to Matt Waltereese for being a Victory Whip supporter on Patreon! So mega. - Follow along on Instagram and YouTube: @thestruggleclimbingshow  - This show is produced and hosted by Ryan Devlin, and edited by Glen Walker. The Struggle is carbon-neutral in partnership with The Honnold Foundation and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a diverse group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry. And now here are some buzzwords to help the almighty algorithm get this show in front of people who love to climb: rock climbing, rock climber, climbing, climber, bouldering, sport climbing, gym climbing, how to rock climb, donuts are amazing. Okay, whew, that’s done. But hey, if you’re a human that’s actually reading this, and if you love this show (and love to climb) would you think about sharing this episode with a climber friend of yours? And shout it out on your socials? I’ll send you a sticker for doing it. Just shoot me a message on IG – thanks so much! 
Join The Struggle’s Patreon community to get 100+ hours of Bonus Episodes, Pro Clinics, Uncut Videos, and Submit Questions for Future Guests. FREE TRIAL available!  https://www.patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow   In this Pro Clinic, Dr. David Spiegel of Stanford University School of Medicine and founder of Reveri discusses: What hypnosis is and isn't How to access flow state more often Using self-hypnosis to manage fear of falling How to reduce the pain response on and off route Breaking bad habits in as little as one session Using a 10-min protocol to improve focus and productivity How to manage the stress of climbing and beyond Getting to sleep faster, and back to sleep after waking in the night Controlling HRV using self-hypnosis   Score a 7-day free trial and 20% off your subscription to the Reveri app using code STRUGGLE at reveri.com - Gain instant access to the FULL Pro Clinic by supporting the show as a Patron (you can even check it out for FREE with a 7-day trial): https://www.patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow - Here are some AI generated show notes (hopefully the robots got it right) 00:00 Introduction: Overcoming Mental Challenges in Climbing 01:14 Meet Dr. David Spiegel: Expert in Psychiatry and Hypnosis 01:46 Understanding Hypnosis and Its Applications 02:52 Personal Experiences and Misconceptions About Hypnosis 06:47 The Science Behind Hypnosis 11:35 Hypnosis for Pain Management and Performance Enhancement 20:24 Practical Applications of Hypnosis in Climbing 32:40 Exploring the Reveri App for Self-Hypnosis 35:52 Conclusion and How to Access More Content - Shoutout to Matt Waltereese for being a Victory Whip supporter on Patreon! So mega. - Follow along on Instagram and YouTube: @thestruggleclimbingshow  - This show is produced and hosted by Ryan Devlin, and edited by Glen Walker. The Struggle is carbon-neutral in partnership with The Honnold Foundation and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a diverse group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry. - The struggle makes us stronger! Let's get out there and try hard. Thanks for supporting the show, y'all.  - And now here are some buzzwords to help the almighty algorithm get this show in front of people who love to climb: rock climbing, rock climber, climbing, climber, bouldering, sport climbing, gym climbing, how to rock climb, donuts are amazing. Okay, whew, that’s done. But hey, if you’re a human that’s actually reading this, and if you love this show (and love to climb) would you think about sharing this episode with a climber friend of yours? And shout it out on your socials? I’ll send you a sticker for doing it. Just shoot me a message on IG – thanks so much!   
Join The Struggle’s Patreon community to get 100+ hours of Bonus Episodes, Pro Clinics, Uncut Videos, and Submit Questions for Future Guests. FREE TRIAL available!  https://www.patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow   In this latest installment of the Road To series, Coach Nate Drolet joins to explore: Are bouldering and route climbing goals at odds? Why having endurance can help with board climbing and bouldering What he recommends for my training schedule this season The risk of trying to peak too early in the season  A top rope drill to learn how to climb faster and mentally manage the pump The 3 types of routes that are best suited for boulderers Whether I should try to push my sport grade this season or not  The Chattanooga V8 he thinks could be my perfect fit - BIG THANKS TO THE AMAZING SPONSORS OF THE STRUGGLE WHO LOVE ROCK CLIMBING AS MUCH AS YOU DO: PhysiVantage: the official climbing-nutrition sponsor of The Struggle. Use code STRUGGLE15 at checkout for 15% off your full-priced nutrition order. Rúngne: Soft threads and high performing chalk! Use Code STRUGGLE for 10% Off Bags, Buckets, Chalk & Apparel from Rúngne!   And check out ALL the show’s awesome sponsors and exclusive deals at thestruggleclimbingshow.com/deals - Here are some AI generated show notes (hopefully the robots got it right) 00:00 Introduction and Welcome 00:54 Seasonal Climbing Goals 02:17 Balancing Bouldering and Sport Climbing 03:17 Training Techniques and Drills 04:46 Personal Climbing Updates 22:50 Climbing Community and Social Dynamics 24:10 Sponsorship and Product Endorsements 39:55 Climbing Without Chalk: Embracing Discomfort 40:53 The Mental Game: Embracing Uncomfortable Climbing 43:47 Experimenting with Climbing Techniques 47:21 Training and Endurance: Insights and Tips 51:50 Route Recommendations and Climbing Strategies 57:35 Exploring New Climbing Locations 57:58 Bouldering Projects and Training Plans 01:05:01 Final Thoughts and Encouragement   - Shoutout to Matt Waltereese for being a Victory Whip supporter on Patreon! So mega. - Follow along on Instagram and YouTube: @thestruggleclimbingshow  - This show is produced and hosted by Ryan Devlin, and edited by Glen Walker. The Struggle is carbon-neutral in partnership with The Honnold Foundation and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a diverse group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry. And now here are some buzzwords to help the almighty algorithm get this show in front of people who love to climb: rock climbing, rock climber, climbing, climber, bouldering, sport climbing, gym climbing, how to rock climb, donuts are amazing. Okay, whew, that’s done. But hey, if you’re a human that’s actually reading this, and if you love this show (and love to climb) would you think about sharing this episode with a climber friend of yours? And shout it out on your socials? I’ll send you a sticker for doing it. Just shoot me a message on IG – thanks so much! 
Join The Struggle’s Patreon community to get 100+ hours of Bonus Episodes, Pro Clinics, Uncut Videos, and Submit Questions for Future Guests. FREE TRIAL available!  https://www.patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow - Emily Harrington, Kai Lightner, and Anna Hazelnutt team up for a live podcast from iconic Miguel's Pizza to kick off Rocktoberfest! We grab a slice and a beer, then dive into: Memories from first trip to the Red How to work through the mental discomfort of pump Fear of falling and how the pros handle it What solidified climbing as their passion in life USA Climbing's ban on trans athlete competitors How becoming a parent impacts climbing performance and adventures How to become a professional climber Climbing pet peeves - BIG THANKS TO THESE SPONSORS FOR SUPPORTING ROCKTOBERFEST AND BRINGING YOU THIS EPISODE AD-FREE: PhysiVantage: the official climbing-nutrition sponsor of The Struggle. Use code STRUGGLE15 at checkout for 15% off your full-priced nutrition order. SCARPA: The best climbing shoes, trail runners, and hikers in the game! Score yourself a free SCARPA x STRUGGLE hat when you use code STRUGGLE at checkout at SCARPA.com. SCARPA, No Place Too Far. Petzl: The best and most reliable helmets, harnesses, draws, and gear that'll help you to Access the Inaccessible. Find Petzl at your local gear shop, and learn more at Petzl.com Rhino Skin Solutions: Perform, Cleanse, Repair… repeat! Amazing skin care products crafted specifically for climbers, whether you’re pulling hard indoors or out. Use code STRUGGLE to score a whopping 20% off your purchase!    And a huge shoutout to the RRGCC for making Rocktoberfest happen. Please support their work with a monthly donation like I do, if you can! - Shoutout to Matt Waltereese for being a Victory Whip supporter on Patreon! So mega. - Follow along on Instagram @thestruggleclimbingshow and YouTube /@thestruggleclimbingshow - The Struggle is carbon-neutral in partnership with The Honnold Foundation, whose mission is to promote solar energy for a more equitable world. - This show is produced and hosted by Ryan Devlin, and edited by Glen Walker. The Struggle is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a diverse group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry. - The struggle makes us stronger! I hope your training and climbing are going great.  - And now here are some buzzwords to help the almighty algorithm get this show in front of people who love to climb: rock climbing, rock climber, climbing, climber, bouldering, sport climbing, gym climbing, how to rock climb, donuts are amazing. Okay, whew, that’s done. But hey, if you’re a human that’s actually reading this, and if you love this show (and love to climb) would you think about sharing this episode with a climber friend of yours? And shout it out on your socials? I’ll send you a sticker for doing it. Just shoot me a message on IG – thanks so much! 
Join The Struggle’s Patreon community to get 100+ hours of Bonus Episodes, Pro Clinics, Uncut Videos, and Submit Questions for Future Guests. FREE TRIAL available!  https://www.patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow - In this interview, elite climber Hamish McArthur shares: Why he now seeks to avoid struggle  How he got better when he stopped training   The new grip position he learned from Daniel woods that took his performance to new levels Boards vs spray walls for his training  An argument against training up weaknesses  The nemesis Kilter climb he has yet to do How he sent Megatron (V17/9A) in 5 days How he sent No One Mourns the Wicked (V17/9A) second or third go Utilizing “One touch” climbing to send hard things fast  Creative outlets and passions beyond climbing  Attempting to flash Burden of Dreams - BIG THANKS TO THE AMAZING SPONSORS OF THE STRUGGLE WHO LOVE ROCK CLIMBING AS MUCH AS YOU DO: PhysiVantage: the official climbing-nutrition sponsor of The Struggle. Use code STRUGGLE15 at checkout for 15% off your full-priced nutrition order. Rúngne: Soft threads and high performing chalk! Use Code STRUGGLE for 10% Off Bags, Buckets, Chalk & Apparel from Rúngne! Rungne.com Rhino Skin Solutions: Perform, Cleanse, Repair… repeat! Amazing skin care products crafted specifically for climbers, whether you’re pulling hard indoors or out. Use code STRUGGLE to score a whopping 20% off your purchase!  Nature Climbing: Beautifully crafted lifting edges and hangboards that feature real granite edges for improved texture and skin conditioning. Sustainably crafted works of art, I love them so much! Get 20% off everything at natureclimbing.com using code STRUGGLE And check out ALL the show’s awesome sponsors and exclusive deals at thestruggleclimbingshow.com/deals   - Shoutout to Matt Waltereese for being a Victory Whip supporter on Patreon! So mega. - Here are some AI generated show notes (hopefully the robots got it right)   01:10 Hamish's Climbing Achievements 01:45 Mindset and Techniques 02:54 Climbing Philosophy and Goals 04:27 Interview with Hamish McArthur 11:57 Training and Climbing Techniques 22:53 Finger Strength and Training Insights 43:21 Recovery and Nutrition 50:13 Project Strategy and Mental Game 51:05 Discussing the Kilter Board Climb 53:01 Projecting Megatron and Other Boulders 55:56 Fueling Climbing Gains with Fizzy Vantage 57:21 The Mental Game of Climbing 01:01:56 Achieving Success on Hard Projects 01:06:03 Reflecting on Climbing Accomplishments 01:25:22 Future Climbing Plans and Personal Interests 01:31:49 Conclusion and Bonus Episode Teaser   - Follow along on Instagram @thestruggleclimbingshow and YouTube /@thestruggleclimbingshow - The Struggle is carbon-neutral in partnership with The Honnold Foundation, whose mission is to promote solar energy for a more equitable world. - This show is produced and hosted by Ryan Devlin, and edited by Glen Walker. The Struggle is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a diverse group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry. - The struggle makes us stronger! I hope your training and climbing are going great.  - And now here are some buzzwords to help the almighty algorithm get this show in front of people who love to climb: rock climbing, rock climber, climbing, climber, bouldering, sport climbing, gym climbing, how to rock climb, donuts are amazing. Okay, whew, that’s done. But hey, if you’re a human that’s actually reading this, and if you love this show (and love to climb) would you think about sharing this episode with a climber friend of yours? And shout it out on your socials? I’ll send you a sticker for doing it. Just shoot me a message on IG – thanks so much! 
Join The Struggle’s Patreon community to get 100+ hours of Bonus Episodes, Pro Clinics, Uncut Videos, and Submit Questions for Future Guests. FREE TRIAL available!  https://www.patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow   In this Climber's Guide to the Red River Gorge, Eric Hörst and Kris Hampton explore: When to visit Where to stay (on all budgets) Where to eat (on all budgets) How to train for the pump Tactics to perform at your best How to 'protect the send' Favorite routes from 5.9 to 5.14   Here's a list of our favorite routes: https://www.thestruggleclimbingshow.com/RRGlist     Join me at Rocktoberfest on October 8th for a live podcast, then stick around for the incredible weekend of programs, clinics, and stoke! https://rrgcc.org/rocktoberfest/     Get $25 off the Red River Pump Prep program from Power Company by using code STRUGGLEPUMP at https://www.powercompanyclimbing.com/trip-prep#rrg-trip-prep     Get 15% off SendureX and other Physivantage staples by using code Struggle15 at http://www.physivantage.com/discount/STRUGGLE15     Get 20% off Rhino Skin Solutions by using code STRUGGLE at https://rhinoskinsolutions.com/discount/STRUGGLE - BIG THANKS TO THE AMAZING SPONSORS OF THE STRUGGLE WHO LOVE ROCK CLIMBING AS MUCH AS YOU DO: PhysiVantage: the official climbing-nutrition sponsor of The Struggle. Use code STRUGGLE15 at checkout for 15% off your full-priced nutrition order. Rúngne: Soft threads and high performing chalk! Use Code STRUGGLE for 10% Off Bags, Buckets, Chalk & Apparel from Rúngne! 5-Year Training and Performance Journal: The most important climbing tool I use! Takes just a few minutes each day, and yields amazing insights year after year. If you’re psyched on training and performance, this is the journal for you. Log, reflect, send.    And check out ALL the show’s awesome sponsors and exclusive deals at thestruggleclimbingshow.com/deals - Here are some AI generated show notes (hopefully the robots got it right) 04:24 Interview with Eric Horst and Kris Hampton 05:43 Kris Hampton's Climbing Journey 09:36 Eric Horst's Climbing Journey 18:14 Best Seasons to Climb at the Red 24:31 Where to Stay at the Red River Gorge 34:10 Where to Eat at the Red River Gorge 36:54 Training for the Red River Gorge 38:31 Understanding Endurance Climbing 39:25 Training for the Red River Gorge 43:05 Aerobic vs. Anaerobic Training 47:49 The Importance of Year-Round Training 49:43 Mental and Physical Adaptations 57:53 Tactics for a Successful Climbing Trip 01:15:52 Favorite Routes at the Red River Gorge 01:18:52 Discussing Favorite Climbing Routes 01:20:30 Exploring 5.10 Climbing Routes 01:22:50 Diving into 5.11 Climbing Routes 01:28:12 Highlighting 5.12 Climbing Routes 01:33:31 Exploring 5.13 Climbing Routes 01:37:40 Discussing 5.14 and Beyond 01:41:18 Wrapping Up and Future Plans - Shoutout to Matt Waltereese for being a Victory Whip supporter on Patreon! So mega. - Follow along on Instagram and YouTube: @thestruggleclimbingshow  - This show is produced and hosted by Ryan Devlin, and edited by Glen Walker. The Struggle is carbon-neutral in partnership with The Honnold Foundation and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a diverse group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry. And now here are some buzzwords to help the almighty algorithm get this show in front of people who love to climb: rock climbing, rock climber, climbing, climber, bouldering, sport climbing, gym climbing, how to rock climb, donuts are amazing. Okay, whew, that’s done. But hey, if you’re a human that’s actually reading this, and if you love this show (and love to climb) would you think about sharing this episode with a climber friend of yours? And shout it out on your socials? I’ll send you a sticker for doing it. Just shoot me a message on IG – thanks so much! 
Join The Struggle’s Patreon community to get 100+ hours of Bonus Episodes, Pro Clinics, Uncut Videos, and Submit Questions for Future Guests. FREE TRIAL available!  https://www.patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow - In this episode Fallon Rowe, climber and author of Pay No Mind, explores: How she fell into a charismatic climbing relationship that turned very dark, controlling, and abusive  The manipulative tricks her partner used to keep her under his control Power imbalances that can occur in some climbing relationships Her harrowing escape The evidence based therapy (EMDR) that she used to process and recover from the trauma  Stoic philosophy Why she feels more deeply connected to climbing and mastery everyday  Struggling with chronic health conditions and how she manages them Being psyched on sport multi-pitch and FAs How to identify red flags in your relationship or belaytionship Being mentored by John Long   Order a copy of Pay No Mind, it's a gripping read: https://www.diangelopublications.com/shop/p/pay-no-mind -   And check out ALL the show’s awesome sponsors and exclusive deals at thestruggleclimbingshow.com/deals - Shoutout to Matt Waltereese for being a Victory Whip supporter on Patreon! So mega. - Here are some AI generated show notes (hopefully the robots got it right) 00:00 Introduction and Welcome 00:37 Introducing Fallon Rowe and Her Story 01:19 Fallon's Book: Pay No Mind 01:45 A Different Kind of Episode 04:00 Starting the Conversation with Fallon 05:12 Fallon's Journey and Writing Process 07:53 The Abusive Relationship Unfolds 11:12 Climbing and Control 33:32 The Final Escape 37:47 Healing and Moving Forward 49:23 The Downward Spiral of a Friend 50:12 Rediscovering the Joy of Climbing 52:03 Living with Chronic Illness 55:28 Navigating Climbing with Health Conditions 01:01:32 Addressing Abuse in Climbing Relationships 01:08:44 The Impact of Sharing Personal Stories 01:11:39 Fallon's Future and Stoic Philosophy 01:22:06 Final Thoughts and Acknowledgements   - Follow along on Instagram @thestruggleclimbingshow and YouTube /@thestruggleclimbingshow - The Struggle is carbon-neutral in partnership with The Honnold Foundation, whose mission is to promote solar energy for a more equitable world. - This show is produced and hosted by Ryan Devlin, and edited by Glen Walker. The Struggle is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a diverse group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry. - The struggle makes us stronger! I hope your training and climbing are going great.  - And now here are some buzzwords to help the almighty algorithm get this show in front of people who love to climb: rock climbing, rock climber, climbing, climber, bouldering, sport climbing, gym climbing, how to rock climb, donuts are amazing. Okay, whew, that’s done. But hey, if you’re a human that’s actually reading this, and if you love this show (and love to climb) would you think about sharing this episode with a climber friend of yours? And shout it out on your socials? I’ll send you a sticker for doing it. Just shoot me a message on IG – thanks so much! 
Join The Struggle’s Patreon community to get 100+ hours of Bonus Episodes, Pro Clinics, Uncut Videos, and Submit Questions for Future Guests. FREE TRIAL available!  https://www.patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow   Weekend Warrior Gentil Nguyen shares insights including: How she sent ten V10s in her first two years outside Challenges (and advantages!) of being 4'11" Why indoor climbs can be harder than outdoors for short climbers Climbing 3 days per week and doing very little other training Why her first season was so magical, and her second season a struggle Dealing with send pressure The importance of releasing expectations Separating self-worth from climbing performance Flexibility and finger strength tips to "climb taller" - BIG THANKS TO THE AMAZING SPONSORS OF THE STRUGGLE WHO LOVE ROCK CLIMBING AS MUCH AS YOU DO: Rúngne: Soft threads and high performing chalk! Use Code STRUGGLE for 10% Off Bags, Buckets, Chalk & Apparel from Rúngne! Petzl: Check out the CONNECT ADJUST at your local gear shop, and learn more at Petzl.com. I love this PAS, it's so easy to use. Rhino Skin Solutions: Perform, Cleanse, Repair… repeat! Amazing skin care products crafted specifically for climbers, whether you’re pulling hard indoors or out. Use code STRUGGLE to score a whopping 20% off your purchase!   And check out ALL the show’s awesome sponsors and exclusive deals at thestruggleclimbingshow.com/deals - Here are some AI generated show notes (hopefully the robots got it right) 02:11 Gentil's Climbing Background and Achievements 02:48 Host's Recent Outdoor Climbing Experience 19:40 Gentil's Climbing Philosophy and Training Routine 27:26 Gentil's Transition to Outdoor Climbing 33:43 Planning Bouldering Trips 34:48 Setting Expectations and Priorities 36:28 Researching and Identifying Boulders 37:18 Inspiration and Community Impact 37:54 Safety Gear Spotlight: Petzl Connect Adjust 39:41 Challenges of Short Climbers 41:58 Mental Journey and Training Blocks 46:43 Balancing Performance and Enjoyment 54:07 Future Goals and Outdoor Climbing 55:52 Indoor Climbing and Personal Growth 56:40 Tips for Short Climbers 01:00:10 Red Rock Bouldering Recommendations 01:04:15 Conclusion and Final Thoughts - Shoutout to Matt Waltereese for being a Victory Whip supporter on Patreon! So mega. - Follow along on Instagram and YouTube: @thestruggleclimbingshow  - This show is produced and hosted by Ryan Devlin, and edited by Glen Walker. The Struggle is carbon-neutral in partnership with The Honnold Foundation and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a diverse group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry.   And now here are some buzzwords to help the almighty algorithm get this show in front of people who love to climb: rock climbing, rock climber, climbing, climber, bouldering, sport climbing, gym climbing, how to rock climb, donuts are amazing. Okay, whew, that’s done. But hey, if you’re a human that’s actually reading this, and if you love this show (and love to climb) would you think about sharing this episode with a climber friend of yours? And shout it out on your socials? I’ll send you a sticker for doing it. Just shoot me a message on IG – thanks so much! 
Join The Struggle’s Patreon community to get 100+ hours of Bonus Episodes, Pro Clinics, Uncut Videos, and Submit Questions for Future Guests. FREE TRIAL available!  https://www.patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow   In this Pro Clinic, coach Jesse Firestone answers lisnters' top bouldering questions in his characteristic thoughtful manner. Topics include: How to access maximal effort and power on the first move Visualization techniques to get amped The value of limiting attempts on a boulder Are grades necessary for motivation and progression Loss aversion theory The importance of skills over grades  Managing fear of falling A guaranteed way to get better at scary top outs Dealing with injuries  How to let go of the things we can’t control  Overcoming biases to refresh our training and performance  How to improve at technique if we don’t have a coach  Using video for self technique review  When testing various strength metrics is helpful vs a waste of time  Building capacity for better bouldering sessions   - Gain instant access to the FULL Pro Clinic by supporting the show as a Patron (you can even check it out for FREE with a 7-day trial): https://www.patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow - Here are some AI generated show notes (hopefully the robots got it right) 00:00 Introduction to Strength Training 00:22 Welcome to the Struggle Climbing Show 00:41 Top 10 Bouldering Questions 01:34 Jesse Firestone's Coaching Insights 02:46 Personal Climbing Journeys 03:28 Parenting and Climbing 05:54 Q&A Session Begins 07:32 Maximal Effort Tips 08:21 Visualization Techniques 10:07 Creating Aggression for Climbing 12:22 Strength Training and Plyometrics 15:25 Session Constraints and Final Tips 16:25 Corey's Perspective on Grades 17:18 Understanding Loss Aversion in Climbing 19:26 Skills Over Grades: A Coaching Approach 22:58 The Value of Attempting the Impossible 29:51 Fear of Falling in Outdoor Bouldering 31:27 Conclusion and Further Insights - Shoutout to Matt Waltereese for being a Victory Whip supporter on Patreon! So mega. - Follow along on Instagram and YouTube: @thestruggleclimbingshow  - This show is produced and hosted by Ryan Devlin, and edited by Glen Walker. The Struggle is carbon-neutral in partnership with The Honnold Foundation and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a diverse group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry. - The struggle makes us stronger! Let's get out there and try hard. Thanks for supporting the show, y'all.  - And now here are some buzzwords to help the almighty algorithm get this show in front of people who love to climb: rock climbing, rock climber, climbing, climber, bouldering, sport climbing, gym climbing, how to rock climb, donuts are amazing. Okay, whew, that’s done. But hey, if you’re a human that’s actually reading this, and if you love this show (and love to climb) would you think about sharing this episode with a climber friend of yours? And shout it out on your socials? I’ll send you a sticker for doing it. Just shoot me a message on IG – thanks so much!   
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Comments (1)

Chris Pyk

Love this show! Great conversations, knowledgeable guests.

May 23rd
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