The Struggle Climbing Show

Break through plateaus, stay consistent, and make every session count with a free 14-day trial of Intentional Climber. https://www.thestruggleclimbingshow.com/intentional   Support the Show on Patreon Get access to all Pro Clinics, bonus episodes, and more. https://www.patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow   Chris Kalous of the Enormocast, along with weekend warrior (and Hell coach) Annette Guo, join me to explore the good, the bad, and the ugly of our recent 24 Hours of Horseshoe Hell epic, including: My mind blowing COROS metrics Coach Annette and her support plan Using legs more than arms Funniest moment Darkest moment Having a good cry My epic bonk and how we adjusted The song that lifted me out of the depths 75 routes, 100 routes   - BIG THANKS TO THE AMAZING SPONSORS WHO GOT ME THROUGH HELL AND BACK: COROS: Track your workouts, HR, HRV, Sleep, Recovery, and Climbs with the best wearable tech for serious climbers. Use code STRUGGLE at COROS.com to score a free watch band with the purchase of a COROS Apex 4. SCARPA: The best climbing shoes, trail runners, and hikers in the game! Score yourself a free SCARPA x STRUGGLE hat when you use code STRUGGLE at checkout at SCARPA.com. SCARPA, No Place Too Far. Petzl: The best and most reliable helmets, harnesses, draws, and gear that'll help you to Access the Inaccessible. Find Petzl at your local gear shop, and learn more at Petzl.com Rhino Skin Solutions: Take care of your skin, send harder! Amazing skin care products crafted specifically for climbers, whether you’re pulling hard indoors or out. Use code STRUGGLE to score a whopping 20% off your purchase!    And check out ALL the show’s awesome sponsors and exclusive deals at thestruggleclimbingshow.com/deals - Shoutout to Kent Olmstead, Michael Martin, and Sam Hancock for supporting at the Hero level on Patreon. So mega!  - Follow along on Instagram and YouTube: @thestruggleclimbingshow  - This show is produced and hosted by Ryan Devlin, and edited by Glen Walker. The Struggle is carbon-neutral in partnership with The Honnold Foundation and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a diverse group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry.   And now here are some buzzwords to help the almighty algorithm get this show in front of people who love to climb: rock climbing, rock climber, climbing, climber, bouldering, sport climbing, gym climbing, how to rock climb, donuts are amazing. Okay, whew, that’s done. But hey, if you’re a human that’s actually reading this, and if you love this show (and love to climb) would you think about sharing this episode with a climber friend of yours? And shout it out on your socials? I’ll send you a sticker for doing it. Just shoot me a message on IG – thanks so much! 

Break through plateaus, stay consistent, and make every session count with a free 14-day trial of Intentional Climber. https://www.thestruggleclimbingshow.com/intentional   Join the email list to get a FREE private finger training clinic with Dr. Tyler Nelson (normally $15) www.thestruggleclimbingshow.com/strong   Support the Show on Patreon Get access to all Pro Clinics, bonus episodes, and more. https://www.patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow   Climbing Coach Joy Black joins to discuss: How to make a 30-min session count Removing friction to start workouts faster Being strong doesn’t mean being good Her groundbreaking study on climbing while pregnant How dangerous is falling while pregnant? Helpful signs to know when to end a session Postpartum training and climbing I HAVE A PELVIC FLOOR (and so do you) Listener Q&A   Follow joy on IG, @climbingwithjoy, and email her for a copy of the study: [email protected] - BIG THANKS TO THE AMAZING SPONSORS OF THE STRUGGLE WHO LOVE ROCK CLIMBING AS MUCH AS YOU DO: PhysiVantage: the official climbing-nutrition sponsor of The Struggle. Train harder, recover faster, and feel better than ever. I love all their stuff! Use code STRUGGLE15 at checkout for 15% off your full-priced nutrition order. Arc’teryx: Inspired by and tested in the Coast Mountains of BC, Arc’teryx makes gear to go the distance! If you’re out adventuring in the elements, Arc’teryx has got you covered. Shop their full collection at Arcteryx.com  Intentional Climber: Stop spinning your wheels. Start making real progress. Plan smarter, train harder, and stay consistent with world-class coaching plans, mindset tools, and powerful analytics built specifically for climbers. Download on Google Play or the App Store and use code STRUGGLE to unlock Kris Hampton’s 6-week Stronger Fingers program. And check out ALL the show’s awesome sponsors and exclusive deals at thestruggleclimbingshow.com/deals - Here are some AI generated show notes (hopefully the robots got it right) 00:00 Why This Paper Matters 00:48 Meet Joy Black 05:01 Small Talk and Cold Plunges 08:07 Parenting and Training Consistency 13:08 Beating Perfectionism 16:56 Joy’s Current Struggle 21:12 Coaching Pregnant Climbers 24:52 Sponsor Break 27:45 Replacing Opinion With Data 33:14 Study Methods and Fall Risk 36:24 Risk Rates In Context 37:29 Talking With Providers 40:01 Bouldering Falls Breakdown 41:38 How Climbers Self Modify 44:03 Misconceptions About Falling 45:50 Miscarriage And Birth Outcomes 46:48 Natural Taper And Guardrails 50:45 Pregnancy Not Performance Season 54:12 Intentional Climber Ad Break 56:04 Mental Health Benefits 58:18 Relaxin And Finger Training 01:03:21 Defining Postpartum Timeline 01:06:13 Breastfeeding Vs Recovery 01:08:11 Pelvic Floor Explained 01:12:55 Postpartum Pelvic Floor Rehab 01:16:04 Pelvic Floor Progression 01:17:04 Coaching Lessons for All 01:19:41 Consistency and Intentional Training 01:20:55 Finger Training Focus 01:22:31 Overcoming Iso Repeaters Setup 01:25:52 Overhead vs Ground Repeaters 01:28:32 Stacking Sessions and Block Pulls 01:30:22 Rapid Fire Listener Q&A 01:30:36 Kids at the Gym Tips 01:32:53 Caffeine During Pregnancy 01:34:05 Two Years Postpartum Rebuild 01:37:41 Where to Find Joy 01:39:06 Wrap Up and Next Pro Clinic 01:41:11 Host Updates and Upcoming Events 01:47:48 Final Thanks and Sign Off - Shoutout to Kent Olmstead, Michael Martin, and Sam Hancock for supporting at the Hero level on Patreon. So mega!  - Follow along on Instagram and YouTube: @thestruggleclimbingshow  - This show is produced and hosted by Ryan Devlin, and edited by Glen Walker. The Struggle is carbon-neutral in partnership with The Honnold Foundation and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a diverse group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry. And now here are some buzzwords to help the almighty algorithm get this show in front of people who love to climb: rock climbing, rock climber, climbing, climber, bouldering, sport climbing, gym climbing, how to rock climb, donuts are amazing. Okay, whew, that’s done. But hey, if you’re a human that’s actually reading this, and if you love this show (and love to climb) would you think about sharing this episode with a climber friend of yours? And shout it out on your socials? I’ll send you a sticker for doing it. Just shoot me a message on IG – thanks so much!

Break through plateaus, stay consistent, and make every session count with a free 14-day trial of Intentional Climber. https://www.thestruggleclimbingshow.com/intentional   Support the Show on Patreon Get access to all Pro Clinics, bonus episodes, and more. https://www.patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow   - Weekend Warrior and badass adventurer Eddie Taylor explores: How to plan a first expedition as a weekend warrior What to do when the plan goes sideways Dealing with killer mosquitoes Trundling while climbing Training hard on a busy schedule Participating in the SCARPA Athlete Mentorship Initiative How he raised funds for his Everest expedition Why onsighting is the way   Learn more about the SAMI program here: https://us.scarpa.com/pages/scarpa-athlete-mentorship-initiative-sami   - BIG THANKS TO THE AMAZING SPONSORS OF THE STRUGGLE WHO LOVE ROCK CLIMBING AS MUCH AS YOU DO: PhysiVantage: the official climbing-nutrition sponsor of The Struggle. Train harder, recover faster, and feel better than ever. I love all their stuff! Use code STRUGGLE15 at checkout for 15% off your full-priced nutrition order. SCARPA: The best climbing shoes, trail runners, and hikers in the game! Score yourself a free SCARPA x STRUGGLE hat when you use code STRUGGLE at checkout at SCARPA.com. SCARPA, No Place Too Far. Arc’teryx: Inspired by and tested in the Coast Mountains of BC, Arc’teryx makes gear to go the distance! If you’re out adventuring in the elements, Arc’teryx has got you covered. Shop their full collection at Arcteryx.com  And check out ALL the show’s awesome sponsors and exclusive deals at thestruggleclimbingshow.com/deals   - Shoutout to Kent Olmstead, Michael Martin, and Sam Hancock for supporting at the Hero level on Patreon. So mega!  - Here are some AI generated show notes (hopefully the robots got it right) 00:00 Midnight Pre Climb Panic 00:23 Sendtember Welcome 01:10 Meet Eddie Taylor 02:38 Weekend Warrior Resume 04:55 Catching Up Dad Life 06:03 Family Climbing Trip Beta 07:17 Why The Cirque 08:30 Getting There Logistics 09:43 What Makes It Unique 11:59 Endless Daylight Window 12:58 Training And Prep Reality 14:22 The Expedition Team 15:32 Goals And Route Wish List 17:22 Parenting Time Tradeoffs 18:54 Sponsor Break Scarpa 20:19 Sponsor Break Physiovantage 22:30 Trip Length Breakdown 23:24 Planning And Packing Lessons 27:29 The Brutal Mosquito Hike 29:16 Fairy Meadows Vibe 30:39 Right Into The Storm Warmup 31:43 Lotus Flower Tower Push 35:17 Summit Glow And Rappel 36:10 Rest Days and Forecast 37:46 Goals Shift After Storms 38:26 Power of Silence Attempt 40:29 Bailing and Regrets 41:43 Arc'teryx Gear Break 43:08 Hawaiian Shirts and Meaning 45:30 Parenting and Next Trips 47:46 Training Split and Simul Mileage 49:12 Freerider Boulder and Board Power 53:22 Scarpa SAMI Mentorship 58:13 Funding Everest Lessons 01:03:57 Fall Goals and Yosemite Plans 01:07:13 Ground Up Adventure Ethic 01:09:01 Wrap Up and Listener Takeaways 01:10:44 SAMI Links and Bonus Episode 01:13:05 Host Training and Horseshoe Hell 01:17:33 Final Thanks and Sign Off - Follow along on Instagram @thestruggleclimbingshow and YouTube /@thestruggleclimbingshow - The Struggle is carbon-neutral in partnership with The Honnold Foundation, whose mission is to promote solar energy for a more equitable world. - This show is produced and hosted by Ryan Devlin, and edited by Glen Walker. The Struggle is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a diverse group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry. - The struggle makes us stronger! I hope your training and climbing are going great.  - And now here are some buzzwords to help the almighty algorithm get this show in front of people who love to climb: rock climbing, rock climber, climbing, climber, bouldering, sport climbing, gym climbing, how to rock climb, donuts are amazing. Okay, whew, that’s done. But hey, if you’re a human that’s actually reading this, and if you love this show (and love to climb) would you think about sharing this episode with a climber friend of yours? And shout it out on your socials? I’ll send you a sticker for doing it. Just shoot me a message on IG – thanks so much! 

Break through plateaus, stay consistent, and make every session count with a free 14-day trial of Intentional Climber. https://www.thestruggleclimbingshow.com/intentional   Support the Show on Patreon Get access to all Pro Clinics, bonus episodes, and more. https://www.patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow   - Michaela Kiersch: Her Latest 5.15a (9a+) Ascent, Grade Debates, Power Endurance Training, and Reel Rock   The story behind her FA of Mad Lib (9a / 5.14d) Sending Dolby Surround (9a+ / 5.15a) after a hold broke Trading beta with Will Bosi Taking her strength and power endurance to a new level Handling send pressure on a limit project The challenge of grading the hardest climbs A case for doing easier volume The most efficient way to build endurance Being featured in Reel Rock - BIG THANKS TO THE AMAZING SPONSORS OF THE STRUGGLE WHO LOVE ROCK CLIMBING AS MUCH AS YOU DO: PhysiVantage: the official climbing-nutrition sponsor of The Struggle. Train harder, recover faster, and feel better than ever. I love all their stuff! Use code STRUGGLE15 at checkout for 15% off your full-priced nutrition order. Arc’teryx: Inspired by and tested in the Coast Mountains of BC, Arc’teryx makes gear to go the distance! If you’re out adventuring in the elements, Arc’teryx has got you covered. Shop their full collection at Arcteryx.com Intentional Climber: Stop spinning your wheels. Start making real progress. Plan smarter, train harder, and stay consistent with world-class coaching plans, mindset tools, and powerful analytics built specifically for climbers. Download on Google Play or the App Store and use code STRUGGLE to unlock Kris Hampton’s 6-week Stronger Fingers program. And check out ALL the show’s awesome sponsors and exclusive deals at thestruggleclimbingshow.com/deals   - Shoutout to Aiden Schlatter, Michael Martin, and Kent Olmstead for supporting at the Hero level on Patreon. So mega!  - Here are some AI generated show notes (hopefully the robots got it right) 00:00 Pressure at the Limit 00:24 Mikaela Returns 01:27 Big Sends Preview 04:03 Lyme Disease Detour 07:10 Catching Up and Moving 08:50 Vermont Bouldering Tear 09:53 Madlib First Ascent 15:22 Jaws and Size Beta 16:25 Dolby Surround Backstory 19:04 Two Months on Dolby 21:44 Sponsor Break 24:41 Training for Dolby 27:08 Send Day Mindset 32:50 Grading and Consensus 35:50 Grades Versus Inspiration 39:20 Breakthrough Grades Memories 42:21 Colorado Plans And Technique 44:58 Tactics And Smart Volume 45:55 Intentional Climber App 47:47 Anti Style And Beta Sharing 50:34 Training For Route Season 51:48 Endurance Sessions Explained 55:22 Madness Cave Prep Tips 58:32 Mindset Journaling Progress 01:02:13 Real Rock Feature Reveal 01:06:46 Bonus Episode And Patreon 01:11:00 Host Red Session Update 01:16:18 Thanks Sponsors And Wrap - Follow along on Instagram @thestruggleclimbingshow and YouTube /@thestruggleclimbingshow - The Struggle is carbon-neutral in partnership with The Honnold Foundation, whose mission is to promote solar energy for a more equitable world. - This show is produced and hosted by Ryan Devlin, and edited by Glen Walker. The Struggle is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a diverse group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry. - The struggle makes us stronger! I hope your training and climbing are going great.  - And now here are some buzzwords to help the almighty algorithm get this show in front of people who love to climb: rock climbing, rock climber, climbing, climber, bouldering, sport climbing, gym climbing, how to rock climb, donuts are amazing. Okay, whew, that’s done. But hey, if you’re a human that’s actually reading this, and if you love this show (and love to climb) would you think about sharing this episode with a climber friend of yours? And shout it out on your socials? I’ll send you a sticker for doing it. Just shoot me a message on IG – thanks so much! 

Casually reflecting on my training, performance, and experimentation for the month, including: Recap of August goals (hits and misses) Struggling like crazy with the new training load How I achieved 18% more completed workouts Squamish recap Getting on the fall 12c projie for the first time Technology I'm using to hack my training Can a vegetarian use collagen? September goals   Shoutout to Aiden Schlatter, Michael Martin, and Kent Olmstead for supporting at the Hero level on Patreon. So mega!   Intentional Climber: Stop spinning your wheels. Start making real progress. Plan smarter, train harder, and stay consistent with world-class coaching plans, mindset tools, and powerful analytics built specifically for climbers. Download on Google Play or the App Store and use code STRUGGLE to unlock Kris Hampton’s 6-week Stronger Fingers program.   I hope your training and climbing are going great!