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In this Pro Clinic, Dr. Tyler Nelson digs into recent scientific studies to explore:

• What 'masters athletes' can do to maintain or build strength


• Why losing strength with age is not inevitable


• How to maintain strong tendons with age


• How to get strong without getting big 


• What younger climbers can do to prep for their older years


• Specific protocols for strength, power, and hypertrophy


• Sets and reps schemes for a 5-day program


• How to keep strength and power up during a climbing season


• The fallacy of fatigue 


• Large vs small muscle group programming


• When to focus on power vs strength in season


• Winter programming


• Should we lift before or after climbing?


• How to build power as part of a climbing warmup 


• Hang board protocols for strength and health 


• Nutrition, supplements, and sleep guidelines for aging athletes

 

HERE is a fantastic article Tyler wrote about the subject, to support what was covered in this interview

 

Other episodes about strength and power to check out:

Dr. Tyler Nelson on Finger Strength

Dr. Tyler Nelson on Power

Dr. Tyler Nelson Q&A 

Dr. Natasha Barnes on Strength Training

Colin and Jesse of C4HP on Strength Training

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Gain instant access to the FULL Pro Clinic by supporting the show as a Patron (you can even check it out for FREE with a 7-day trial):

https://www.patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow

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Here are some AI generated show notes (hopefully the robots got it right)

00:00  Introduction: Stronger at 43
00:27  Welcome to the Struggle Climbing Show
00:38  Defying Aging: Science and Strength
02:09  Understanding Aging Athletes
02:32  Specific Training Programs for Older Climbers
18:46  The Importance of Tendon Health
25:59  Programming for Aging Athletes
26:21  Conclusion and Membership Information

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Shoutout to Matt Waltereese for being a Victory Whip supporter on Patreon! So mega.

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Follow along on Instagram and YouTube: @thestruggleclimbingshow 

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This show is produced and hosted by Ryan Devlin, and edited by Glen Walker. The Struggle is carbon-neutral in partnership with The Honnold Foundation and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a diverse group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry.

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The struggle makes us stronger! Let's get out there and try hard. Thanks for supporting the show, y'all. 

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And now here are some buzzwords to help the almighty algorithm get this show in front of people who love to climb: rock climbing, rock climber, climbing, climber, bouldering, sport climbing, gym climbing, how to rock climb, donuts are amazing. Okay, whew, that’s done. But hey, if you’re a human that’s actually reading this, and if you love this show (and love to climb) would you think about sharing this episode with a climber friend of yours? And shout it out on your socials? I’ll send you a sticker for doing it. Just shoot me a message on IG – thanks so much!