The Strong AF Climbing Podcast

If your shoulder still hurts no matter how much rehab you’ve done, this episode is for you. We’re digging into why traditional shoulder rehab fails climbers, what the latest shoulder pain research actually says, and how to build a better plan that gets you back to the wall stronger and more confident.In this episode, I cover:Why most shoulder rehab for climbers is under-dosed and not climbing-specificWhat the research says about pain during rehab and when it’s okay to keep trainingWhy posture correction, scapular mechanics, and banded exercises aren’t the full solutionThe truth about MRI findings, rotator cuff tears, and what pain really meansHow I structure climbing-specific shoulder rehab programs, including movement patterns, isolation work, and load progressionWhether you’ve been told you have shoulder impingement, rotator cuff tendinopathy, or just feel like your shoulder isn’t keeping up with your climbing — this episode will help you understand why, and what to do next.Ready for a plan that’s actually built for climbers?Book a 1:1 consultation or join the 8-week Shoulder Reset Program to rebuild a stronger, more resilient shoulder.Follow me on InstagramJoin the Foundational Strength ProgramBook an Injury Consultation or Rehab CoachingTrain with me My Website

In this episode, I unpack why traditional shoulder rehab often fails climbers — and how to rethink the entire approach. Using guided reasoning and evidence from leading studies, we challenge the most common myths about shoulder pain and rotator cuff injuries.You’ll learn:🔹 Why rest and avoidance aren’t the answerWe explore why rest often leads to temporary relief but long-term setbacks — and how graded loading is the true medicine for shoulder pain.🔹 The problem with “banded exercises forever”Progressive overload matters. We break down what kind of exercise actually works — and what the latest research says about exercise.🔹 How to train through pain — safely and effectivelyWe dig into the Smith et al. meta-analysis showing that tolerable pain during rehab isn’t harmful — and may even improve outcomes when managed correctly.🔹 Why surgery isn't the gold standard — and might not be necessary at allWe review landmark studies showing that:Pain does not correlate with tear size (Dunn et al.)Most small-to-medium rotator cuff tears can be rehabbed without surgery (Moosmayer et al., Kukkonen et al., Karjalainen et al.)Even full-thickness traumatic tears respond well to rehab (Boorman et al., Kuhn et al.)Failed surgical repairs don’t always lead to worse outcomes (Holtedahl et al.)Sham surgeries work just as well as real ones (Paavola et al., Schroder et al.)🔹 What effective rehab actually looks like for climbersWe close the episode by showing what real rehab should include: climbing-specific loading, total-body strength, education around pain, and a progressive plan that actually builds capacity instead of avoiding discomfort.This episode is packed with practical insights and paradigm-shifting takeaways that will help you — or your clients — stop spinning their wheels and start seeing real progress.🎧 Hit play now and find out why your shoulder rehab hasn’t been working — and what to do instead.Follow me on InstagramJoin the Foundational Strength ProgramBook an Injury ConsultationTrain with me My Website

In this episode, we dive into the complexities of shoulder pain and pathology, particularly in the context of climbing. Natasha explores how MRI findings often reveal abnormalities that may not correlate with pain or dysfunction, challenging the conventional wisdom that structural changes always indicate a problem. Through insights from studies on elite climbers, Natasha reframes the narrative around shoulder health, emphasizing the importance of function over imaging. Discover how to build stronger, more resilient shoulders and why your MRI might not tell the whole story. Tune in to learn when imaging is truly necessary and how to focus on what really matters for your shoulder health.Follow me on InstagramJoin the Foundational Strength ProgramBook an Injury ConsultationTrain with me My Website

Join us as we delve into the topic of shoulder pain among climbers. In this episode, Natasha shares insights on the prevalence of shoulder injuries, the impact on climbers' lives, and the surprising statistics that reveal just how common these issues are. Discover personal stories and what the science has to say about why these injuries happen.Key Topics:The anatomy of the shoulder and its role in climbingCommon shoulder injuries and their high prevalence among climbersPersonal experiences and stories from dealing with shoulder painThe impact of shoulder pain on daily life and climbing performanceDebunking common myths climbers are told about why the have shoulder painDiving into some climbing specific research on shoulder pain, posture and scapular dyskinesis #Climbing #ShoulderPain #InjuryPrevention If you found this episode helpful, please share it with fellow climbers who might benefit from these insights. Don't forget to subscribe for more episodes on climbing health and performance. Stay tuned for PART II!Follow me on InstagramJoin the Foundational Strength ProgramBook an Injury Consultation or Shoulder ResetTrain with me My Website

In this episode Natasha emphasizes the significance of consistency in training, discussing how it leads to long-term progress. She addresses common mental barriers like black and white thinking, encourages the creation of a minimum viable training plan, and highlights the importance of discipline over motivation. She also explains that progress is not linear and that fluctuations in performance are normal. She provides strategies for maintaining flexibility in training plans and adapting to life's challenges while staying committed to training goals.Chapters00:00 The Importance of Consistency in Training03:06 Overcoming Black and White Thinking04:53 Creating a Minimum Viable Training Plan07:21 Discipline Over Motivation10:01 Flexibility in Training Plans12:15 Understanding Non-Linear Progress15:19 The Role of Volume in Training18:30 Embracing Fluctuations in PerformanceFollow me on InstagramJoin the Foundational Strength ProgramBook an Injury ConsultationTrain with me My Website

Today I’m pulling back the curtain on what the Foundational Strength Training Program actually is.Because if you’ve ever looked at it and thought, “Eh, I could just get a program like this on ChatGPT or in a climbing training book” you are exactly who this episode is for.SummaryIn this episode, I’m diving into what the Foundational Strength Program (FSP) is really all about. This isn’t just a list of exercises, it’s a full support system designed to help climbers stay consistent with strength training all year long. I talk about why flexibility, coaching, and community are key to making real progress, and I walk you through everything that’s included in the program, from seasonal tracks and time-crunch options to workshops, pain and injury guidance, and free form checks in our private Discord. I also share who this program is designed for, who it’s probably not a great fit for, and why that clarity matters when you’re thinking about your long-term goals as a climber.TakeawaysThe FSP is designed as a full support system for climbers.Many online programs fail to adapt to real-life situations.Strength training benefits not only climbing performance but also overall health.The FSP includes 15 different training programs for various needs.Community support is crucial for maintaining motivation and consistency.Workshops in the FSP help climbers become more independent in their training.Goal setting and planning are essential for long-term success.The program is not for those seeking quick fixes or handholding.Life's unpredictability requires a flexible training approach.Chapters00:00 Introduction to the Foundational Strength Program02:50 The Importance of Real-Life Flexibility in Training06:06 Comprehensive Support and Resources in the FSP08:58 Understanding Who the FSP is For11:50 Enrollment and Community Support in the FSP15:04 Conclusion and Call to ActionFollow me on InstagramJoin the Foundational Strength ProgramBook an Injury ConsultationTrain with me My Websitestrength training, climbing, FSP, coaching, injury prevention, fitness program, auto-regulation, community support, goal setting, training flexibility

Takeaways from the episode:Strength training is essential for climbers.Feeling wiped out after lifting indicates a need for capacity building.General physical preparedness (GPP) is crucial for handling both climbing and lifting.Recovery involves sleep, nutrition, and proper training volume.Climbers should not jump into high-volume strength programs too quickly.Off-season training is vital for long-term climbing success.Planning your training year is important for maintaining performance.You can still climb while focusing on strength training.Nutrition plays a key role in recovery and performance.Strength training should complement climbing, not compete with it.Summary:In this episode of the Strong AF Climbing Podcast, Natasha discusses the importance of strength training for climbers and addresses common misconceptions about its impact on climbing performance. She emphasizes that if strength training consistently leaves climbers feeling sore or fatigued, it may indicate a lack of capacity or recovery rather than a flaw in the training itself. Natasha outlines the importance of building general physical preparedness (GPP), ensuring adequate recovery through sleep and nutrition, and the necessity of planning off-seasons for long-term success in climbing. She encourages climbers to adopt a balanced approach to training that supports their climbing goals without overwhelming their bodies.Follow me on InstagramJoin the Foundational Strength ProgramBook an Injury ConsultationTrain with me My Website

In this episode, Natasha discusses the common reasons why training plans fail and offers practical strategies to create more realistic and flexible training schedules.She emphasizes the importance of mindset shifts, the concept of a 'minimum viable week', and how to adapt plans to fit real-life challenges. The conversation highlights the need for consistency over perfection and provides insights into building sustainable training habits for climbers.TakeawaysMost training plans fail because they are idealistic rather than realistic.Flexibility in training plans is crucial for consistency.Missing a session does not equate to failure; it's part of the process.Reframing setbacks can help maintain motivation and progress.Mental contrasting helps visualize both goals and obstacles.A minimum viable week allows for training even during chaotic times.Building a plan that accounts for real-life challenges is essential.Consistency is more important than perfection in training.Having a backup plan can prevent burnout and frustration.Training should be adaptable to fit individual lifestyles and commitments.Follow me on InstagramJoin the Foundational Strength ProgramBook an Injury ConsultationTrain with me My Website

What does it really mean to be a lifer in climbing? Is strength training just a trend, or is it the key to climbing longevity?In this episode, I sit down with climbing coach and longtime boulderer Jesse Firestone to talk about how his approach to training has evolved over nearly two decades. We dive into the hard lessons from injuries, the shift from chasing grades to building a sustainable climbing life, and why more climbers should be embracing strength training.🔹 Why Jesse started lifting—and why he kept lifting🔹 The myth that climbers don’t need strength training🔹 How to balance training with projecting & performance seasons🔹 The mental shift from short-term goals to long-term progression🔹 The reality of climbing longevity (and why many pros don’t talk about it)Jesse has coached climbers worldwide, and his take on auto-regulation, RPE, and long-term performance is something every dedicated climber needs to hear. Whether you’re deep in a climbing obsession or trying to figure out how to climb for life, this episode is for you.Follow Jesse on InstagramFollow me on InstagramJoin the Foundational Strength ProgramBook an Injury ConsultationTrain with me My Website

This week, we dive into a compelling episode featuring Tammy Wilson, an accomplished climber and endurance athlete. Tammy shares her inspiring journey, from discovering climbing in the midst of a snowboarding career to sustaining and overcoming knee injuries, all while incorporating strength training to bolster her performance. Join us as Tammy discusses the transformative impact of strength training on her climbing, running, and overall fitness. She reveals how gaining nearly 20 pounds of muscle not only improved her climbing abilities but also helped her recover faster from injuries. Natasha engages Tammy in a conversation filled with practical insights and empowering advice. Whether you're an experienced climber or just setting foot into the gym, Tammy's story will motivate you to take your training and climbing to the next level. Don’t miss out on this episode filled with strength training wisdom and climbing passion. Follow Tammy on Instagram Follow me on Instagram Join the Foundational Strength Program Book an Injury Consultation Train with me  My Website

Today we have a remarkable guest who embodies the perfect balance of elite climbing and strength training. Kelly Birch, a climber who has sent routes up to V14 and has a background in competitive powerlifting. Kelly shares her insightful journey, describing how balancing strength training with climbing has boosted her performance on the rock. In this episode, we'll delve into the details of her training, debunk common myths about lifting, and uncover strategies for incorporating strength training without compromising climbing time. Whether you’re a seasoned climber or just starting, this conversation is packed with valuable tips that will inspire you to elevate your training game. Follow Kelly on Instagram Follow me on Instagram Join the Foundational Strength Program Book an Injury Consultation Train with me  My Website

In today’s episode, we're tackling an important topic that often goes misunderstood in the world of sports and fitness: the complex role of imaging, specifically MRIs, in diagnosing and managing injuries. From overuse in healthcare to the startling impact it can have on your psychology and treatment plan, we'll delve into why caution is crucial when considering an MRI. We’ll discuss surprising findings about the prevalence of shoulder abnormalities among elite rock climbers and how these often don’t correlate with pain or performance issues. We’ll also share an inspiring case study where a climber managed a significant shoulder condition with targeted strength training, avoiding surgery altogether. You’ll hear why imaging isn’t always the best first step for pain management, especially given the high rates of ‘abnormal’ findings in asymptomatic individuals, and how these can lead to unnecessary anxiety and interventions. Join us as we explore the broader landscape of medical imaging, offering practical advice on when it’s really necessary and stressing the importance of professional assessments. We’ll also touch on the resilience of the human body and how functional recovery should take center stage in your injury rehabilitation journey. Let’s dive in! Follow me on Instagram Join the Foundational Strength Program Book an Injury Consultation Train with me  My Website

In this latest episode of the Strong AF Podcast, we dive deep into the transformative world of pelvic health with our guest expert, Dr. Annemarie Everett, DPT, UCSF grad, a specialist in pelvic floor care, WCS Emeritus (board certified women's health specialist). Together we explore how integrating movement and strength training into pelvic health treatments is changing the game for patients and professionals alike. What You'll Learn: Movement as Medicine: Discover how incorporating movement-based strategies into pelvic floor care can offer lasting relief, challenging the traditional reliance on manual therapies alone. Self-Sufficiency in Health: Learn how empowering patients with autonomy and self-management tools can reshape their approach to long-term pelvic health. Holistic Health Matters: Natasha and Annemarie discuss how stress, sleep, diet, and mental health are vital elements of a well-rounded treatment plan. Busting Pelvic Health Myths: From misconceptions about internal exams to the overemphasis on dysfunctions, we shed light on more balanced approaches to care. Practical Tips for Strength & Pelvic Health: Whether it's managing incontinence while lifting or exploring the benefits of tools like pessaries, this episode is packed with actionable advice. Takeaways: Simple exercises like resistance training and cardio can significantly improve pelvic health. Your lifestyle choices—diet, hydration, and stress management—are just as important as your workout routine. Special Mention: We also cover critical topics like urinary habits, toileting techniques, and other tools to help manage symptoms effectively. Sneak Peek at Our Next Episode: Next time, we’ll tackle pelvic health during pregnancy and postpartum, ensuring you’re prepared for all stages of life with confidence. Tune in Now! Citations: 45% of women in the U.S. experience stress urinary incontinence (SUI)【https://www.ajog.org/article/S0002-9378(21)00168-X/abstract】. Many female powerlifters report SUI during lifting, but only 11% experience it in daily life【https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/30666426/】. Women confident in contracting their pelvic floor had less severe incontinence during lifting. UI is more likely to occur during heavy lifts, especially 1RM attempts【https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC8651931/】. 8% of women who previously had UI in daily life became continent after starting CrossFit, though symptoms persisted during training【https://www.dovepress.com/urinary-incontinence-and-women-crossfit-competitors-peer-reviewed-fulltext-article-IJWH】. Intra-abdominal pressure (IAP) is relative to individual capacity, not an absolute risk for pelvic floor health【https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC8974352/】. A narrative review of exercise and pelvic floor health by leading researchers【https://link.springer.com/article/10.1007/s40279-019-01243-1】. Follow me on Instagram Join the Foundational Strength Program Book an Injury Consultation Train with me  My Website

In today's episode, we're tackling a mindset hurdle that many of us face: the "all or nothing" thinking. This common cognitive distortion can throw a wrench into our training consistency, making us believe that it's either perfection or failure. From skipping workouts because of lack of time or equipment, to feeling like one missed session ruins an entire week, it's a mindset that can seriously sabotage long-term progress. We'll dive into tips and strategies to overcome this, such as doing at least one exercise even when pressed for time, spreading your workouts throughout the week, and keeping quick energy snacks like protein bars or fruit snacks on hand for those low-energy days. We'll also explore how tools like Rate of Perceived Exertion (RPE) can help you adapt your training in real-time based on how you feel, ensuring you're always moving forward, no matter what. Plus, we’ll touch on how to creatively maintain your training routine even when your environment or available equipment changes—think using water bottles or even backpacks loaded with rocks for resistance training! And for all my climbers out there, we'll discuss how to track your climbing-specific progress using apps like KAYA. Whether you're in the gym, at home, or on the go, today's episode is packed with actionable advice to help you break free from the all-or-nothing trap and keep making gains. So let's get into it! Follow me on Instagram Join the Foundational Strength Program Book an Injury Consultation Train with me  My Website

In this episode, Dr. Natasha Barnes addresses common concerns climbers have about weight and strength training. Many climbers worry that gaining muscle will make them heavier, potentially hindering their climbing performance. Natasha reassures listeners that it is possible to gain strength without significant weight gain. In fact, strength training can help climbers feel stronger and perform better, even if the scale shows a slight increase in weight. Key points discussed include: Weight Concerns: Many climbers are anxious about gaining weight, but strength training often leads to weight loss or no significant weight gain due to increased activity levels. Realistic Expectations: Most climbers don't need to worry about gaining weight from strength training. Benefits of Strength Training: Strength gains from a structured program can outweigh any minor weight increase, leading to better climbing performance. Professional Athletes vs. Regular Climbers: Natasha highlights the difference between professional athletes, who may sacrifice health for performance, and regular climbers, who should prioritize overall well-being. Personal Experience: Natasha shares personal experiences with disordered eating and the realization that sustainable performance improvement is more important than weight loss. Foundational Strength Program: Natasha's transformational program helps climbers gain significant strength, making them feel lighter and more capable on the wall. The re-launch of this program is happening THIS MONTH! The episode aims to dispel myths about weight and strength training, encouraging climbers to embrace strength programs to enhance their climbing ability and resilience. Follow me on Instagram Join the Foundational Strength Program Book an Injury Consultation Train with me  My Website

Join me in this podcast episode as I share the incredible journey of blending climbing and powerlifting in my life. I'll take you through the highs, lows, and transformative moments that emerged from the unique synergy of these two dynamic disciplines. Explore the unexpected connections, the physical and mental strength gained, and the profound insights discovered while navigating climbing and the sport of powerlifting. Look out for the special announcement at the end! Follow me on Instagram Join the In-Season Strength Program Join the Foundational Strength Program Book an Injury Consultation Train with me  My Website

In this episode, Dr. Natasha Barnes, your host and strength and rehab coach for climbers, discusses the importance of inseason strength training for climbers. Here are the key takeaways: 1️⃣ Maintain Performance: Many climbers neglect strength training once their season begins, but this can have detrimental effects on your strength levels. By incorporating inseason strength training, climbers can maintain their performance throughout the season, leading to easier climbing, better grip strength, and improved ability to handle falls and challenging moves. 2️⃣ Durability & Injury Risk Reduction: Strength and durability are crucial for athletes to stay injury-free and perform at their best. Research shows that strength training can reduce the risk of injury by up to 66%! By continuing strength training inseason, climbers can better withstand the demands of climbing and prevent breakdowns that limit availability and performance. 3️⃣ Prevent Detraining & Maintain Gains: Don't let your hard-earned gains disappear. By maintaining your strength training throughout the season, you can prevent detraining and avoid starting from square one in the next offseason. Inseason strength training ensures long-term development and continuous improvement as a climber. If you're looking for guidance on inseason strength training for climbers, Dr. Natasha Barnes has just launched an in-season strength training program in her app. This program provides personalized programming, auto-regulation techniques, and a community forum for support and learning. Strengthen your climbing game and be Strong AF all season long! Follow me on Instagram Join the In-Season Strength Program Join the Foundational Strength Program Book an Injury Consultation Train with me  My Website

In this episode, we'll be exploring the relationship between posture and muscle imbalances in climbers, and how it relates to pain and injury. We'll uncover some fascinating insights from recent studies that challenge traditional beliefs about posture and muscle imbalances. Do climbers need to do "antagonist" training? Do you really have a "bad" posture and is it a cause for concern? Should we be focusing on correcting posture to prevent injuries? Or are there other factors at play that we should be paying attention to? Be prepared to have your perspective on posture and muscle imbalances turned upside down. We'll be discussing the latest research findings, as well as sharing personal experiences and practical advice on how to approach training and injury prevention in climbing. Join me as we break down myths, explore the science, and empower you with knowledge to help you become stronger and injury-free. So get ready to challenge your preconceived notions about posture and muscle imbalances in this episode of the Strong AF Podcast! And don't forget, if you have any questions or suggestions, reach out to us. We'd love to hear from you. Let's dive in! Follow me on Instagram Join the Foundational Strength Program Book an Injury Consultation Train with me  My Website

Did you know that our minds have the power to reverse the effects of a powerful opioid? That's right, a drug that can numb our pain can also be counteracted by our own thoughts and beliefs. You're probably wondering, how is this possible? It all comes down to the incredible complexity of how pain works and the intricate dance between our brains and bodies. Pain is not purely a physical sensation. It's a multifaceted experience rooted deep within our nervous system. And we're going to explore just how much control we have over this experience. In this episode, Dr. Natasha Barnes dives into the world of pain science, pain management and injury recovery. From back pain to elbow sensitivity, Natasha provides insights, personal experiences, and expert advice on how to navigate the challenges of pain and injury. Whether you're a climber or simply looking for ways to deal with pain, this episode will give you the tools and knowledge to reframe pain and work around it during training. Let's dive in! [00:02:04] Injury is inevitable for athletes; normalize it. [00:08:38] Powerful pain expectations reverse drug effects. [00:12:50] Power of the mind affects opioid potency. [00:17:35] Reframe pain, retrain response, address unhelpful thoughts. [00:22:50] Use CBT techniques to create and "evidence sheet", challenge negative beliefs and cognitive distortions. [00:23:43] Research suggests slap tears may not cause pain. [00:30:48] Self efficacy in rehab leads to better pain outcomes. [00:35:16] When to seek professional guidance. [00:41:48] Exercise even directly after surgery improves outcomes. Follow me on Instagram Join the Foundational Strength Program Book an Injury Consultation Train with me  My Website

In this episode, we'll be discussing various strategies for warming up for your strength training session. Plus, we'll touch on the importance of using RPE (Rating of Perceived Exertion) to accurately gauge your effort level and adjust your training accordingly. So get ready to get warmed up and let's dive in! RPE calculator Follow me on Instagram Join the Foundational Strength Program Book an Injury Consultation Train with me  My Website